👍Good stuff brother. Back in 80s my Dad & I poured a small pad for a shed. Secured some chain link fence in and I dug a few “gopher holes” approx 2’ deep w/ post hole diggers in effort for the slab not to move. No, I didn’t know what I was doing at 16. However, it’s never cracked nor moved. The old shed is looking rough, Dad has passed. I remember it like it was yesterday. Hot, humid KY. summer day. Thx for the videos! Best to ya. 👍🇺🇸 (RIP Dad)
Bondo has a doctorate in the school of concrete. Appreciate the way you explain things. In my carpentry days, I saw lots of different concrete companies doing small and large jobs. You are among the best I've ever seen. Attention to detail and a lot of years in the business keep you on top of it.
So awesome to see your attention to details such as dry slump worth the extra work and benefits. I had one job done with a pump and it did not hold up well even with relief cuts. The next small drive pad was done with five inches, rebar tied to the existing, wire, low slump, and so happy with it. Dealt with the scale issue, and now I know why. Thanks
@@bondobuilt386 In warm dry weather you also have to keep a low slump pour damp for a couple days, and cover it up. Low slump concrete is thirsty and needs to absorb water to fully harden, but in cold damp weather you don't need much like this barn. Sometimes we'd put old burlap sacks over a large floor, and wet those down, like the next day after the finish trowel with the machine.
As always a great educational experience in concrete. Appreciate your videos and hope it the learnings will help me find the right guy to pour my slap next year.
Once the weather turns nice I'm gonna be using the tips that y'all give out to us regular ppl. I'll be trying to get the mud down and having some knowledge of slump and the tools involved helps a ton!
Very cool how you can tell what the slump is by just looking at it, I guess after hundreds of pours you just know. Might be interesting to your viewers to see how a slump cone actually works. When I was a maintenance manager, we would supervise concrete pours for parking lots and building addition slabs. We'd carry a cone, check slump, and (if I recall correctly) refuse anything over 6". A lot of the concrete guys wanted it real loose to make it easier on themselves, I really like how you do it, makes for a much better and stronger pour, even if it doesn't look much different. Thanx for all of the videos.
@@bondobuilt386 Cool, I'll find it and check it out. I've been watching your vids for a while now, but have not seen all of them, you have a pretty big library.
I'm old school too, I only used plasticizer on a couple of slabs. The mud company always called my slump "Phil's 4 inch slump", I poured stiffer than anybody in my area. I think I got a better finish & like you say, a stronger slab. Keep the great videos coming.
🎉... Big B is the man ... Props to him....he needs an raise or at least a bounce...he is always there and will work.... while everyone else wants to supposedly go home....bar .....😮....JJ...😊....
I believe using plasticizers increases the strength of concrete due to being able to pour at lower slump (pour at 3 and behaves like 8) and this reduced water ultimately gives the concrete higher strength. Also for pumpers the use of a plasticizers can help keep the mix at low slump while also allowing it be pumped. Does it matter at the end of the day if its slightly stronger? Probably not.
We used a small amount of plasticizer and air entrainment when pumping foundations, some call it water reducer. Big 3 story buildings so we needed strong concrete, but like he said, you can't pump low slump concrete very well, plus you would end up with a lot of voids in the walls after the forms came off, we called that honeycomb, and I hated that. Plus the concrete needs to fully cover and get around the rebar or it'll crack later. Too much plasticizer though is not good, the stone settles too much plus the concrete shrinks more. Sometimes you don't want 5000 psi concrete, the higher the psi, the more I found it shrinks, and that causes it's own problems. A good rule with plasticizers is only use just bare minimum, as little as you can get away with.
Back in the 90's when I was doing foundations for small apartment buildings, we only used a little bit of super plasticizer when pumping the walls, all our foundations were poured, no blocks, and the plasticzer helped keep the pump happy, a lot of the walls we were reaching out 100 feet over rough terrain from where the truck could get to. Garage floors we did like this, no additives. In the crawlspaces we poured a thin 2" slab, with pea gravel kind of wet about a 6" slump since they were just for cover and non-structural. Without plasticizer would have been either too hard to pump, plus would be hard to vibrate the concrete so it would get down in the wall forms and around the rebar properly. There was a 6 foot high foundation wall 300 feet long along the front road side of the property that the brick layers came back and laid a decorative brick wall and gates for the main entrance, we poured that in January so we had to add a bit of calcium to the fix, when we pulled off the forms the next day it was still a little green. Temps that night dropped to about 34, just above freezing so it was good we did, it was taking awhile to set up as it was. We used a pumper for just about the entire 160 acre job site, was there at that site for nearly a year, 50 weeks we took two weeks off around Xmas/New Years.
Ronny….. hope you had a nice Christmas and Santa was good to you. Thanks for the info on pumps and slump. When was this poured? And…. When you price these jobs, do you figure extra manpower in your quote? And do you inform the customer of details on how it’s being poured? Thanks Buddy…. Having coffee while the Bondo/Biscuit Team lay down some mud.
@@bondobuilt386 line pump. (Trailer pump) Pumps big rock. So we don’t have to change to pea gravel mix. Crazy they charge 1k in your area. These guys will pump two truck and handle the line and pump for us for 800 bucks.
Ya thats not bad. We get charged $1000 and we have to man the line with our guys. LOL. Then you have to line up with they're schedule and the concrete schedule together. @@Utahconcrete801
Other pumps here you gotta do that too. We’ve used these guys for almost 9years now. Small family business. They run 4 pumps to cover all vip clients 😂. Anyways love your channel bud keep it up!! Shout out to big biscuit! Doin it for the big boys!!
Hey Ron. Enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Hoping to get a pad poured for my pole barn next summer 2024. I'm in the Rome, NY area and was wondering if that is an area you cover? If so, do you have a website with your contact info? Looks like Circle T Cement is out of the Oneida area.
You should make a scroll across the bottom of the video that says something like 'The wire was pulled up. The wire was pulled up. The wire was...' Might cut back on the arm chair concrete guys comments 😁
My Dad was the best puddler for me but when he retired I had a very hard time finding a new guy that could do it as good as my Dad ! Which made strait edging by yourself more difficult ! At the end of a 10 yard pour I was whooped !
Have been pouring concrete for forty years. Never used plasticizers Many jobs it wasn’t permitted. Floors I have seen poured by others with plasticizers tend to craze crack.
So I'm not good at concrete, most of my floors I'll do with 4500, air entrained, addmixture if its warm out, 4.5 to 5.5 slump its heavy and screeding takes effort and either hand or power trowel after a bunch of floating. I've never had any cracks, almost every slab I've had floor guys do they run the slump maybe 6 or 7 and slap the floor in with record time but then I get the hairline cracks every place. On outdoor stuff, I'll usually put a freeze block, 2x the slab thickness around the edge and drop in a single #4 rebar all around the perimeter and usually fiber reinforced. The floor guys that pour it sloppy and wet seem to get lots of hairline cracks.
6 ft bullfloat is the only way to go. bought one about 8 yrs ago and never looked back. i keep a 4 ft bullfloat on my truck for when we do smaller stuff plus i like to have a backup just in case. after all, one is none and two is one, right? right. floor looks good.
Concrete is looking better, not so boney as it has been in the videos. Plasticizer is ok, but if you’re not paying close attention when it starts coming out, you can end up scrubbing the concrete if it gets ahead of you before you realize it. As for the leafs, just trowel them in, if the customer says anything, tell him they’re fossils, and you usually charge extra for them, but because he’s a good customer, they’re free of charge! LOL 😂
20 minutes earley = 20 minutes hotter concrete. the supplier loaded it too soon. after 35 years in this game, my main mission was to look out for the customer. you guys first! my boss second.
understood. one time i arrived about 20 minutes early and was "talked to". I looked at the lead guy, and not saying a word:I drove off. came back about 17 minutes later. got a smile, & a cool ok let's pour it. ✌ @@bondobuilt386
Concrete control joints should be no less than ¼ of the total thickness of the slab (1” deep for a 4” thick pour) and placed no less than 2-3 times (in feet) the thickness (in inches) of the slab (8-12 feet apart for a 4” thick pour). Equal spacing unless some design is required.
I've never poured concrete but about to attempt a 20×24×4 I'm in arkansas what's the easiest slump I could get away with. It's a 2×2 square tubing metal building that will be used as a "get away from the wife" building so nothing super heavy will ever be in it 😂
What is the point of adding the wire and lifting it if all the guys walk around on it and smash it all the way down? Shouldn't it be in the middle and not at the bottom?
The wire should be near the bottom putting it on the tension side of the slab not on the middle. as weight is put on top of the concrete the wire does the best near the bottom. The low slump concrete works way better to hold the wire up vs a loose concrete pour with a lot of water or plasticizer.
Plasticiser always weakens final concrete PSI however if a self consolidating mix is required and a plasticizer is used silca fume can be added along with 3/4" fiberglass fibers or better yet besalt fibers which need to be added at jobsite for fibreglass fibres to remain intact to enhance cured strength. Ray Stormont
Dont understand why you use wire mess and not elevated rebar. You say you pull the wire up into the wet cement as you work but then all your guys go back in and walk on top of it.....are you going to tell us that the cheap flimsy wire is holding their weight and stays suspended???
Not sure how you could wheel barrow over suspended wire or rebar?We pull it up and it ends up towards the bottom of the slab on the tension side of the slab. This low slump concrete and the stone holds it up enough where it is suppose to be.Our slabs perform real good and I have poured 1000's of them this way.
👍Good stuff brother. Back in 80s my Dad & I poured a small pad for a shed. Secured some chain link fence in and I dug a few “gopher holes” approx 2’ deep w/ post hole diggers in effort for the slab not to move. No, I didn’t know what I was doing at 16. However, it’s never cracked nor moved. The old shed is looking rough, Dad has passed. I remember it like it was yesterday. Hot, humid KY. summer day. Thx for the videos! Best to ya. 👍🇺🇸
(RIP Dad)
Thanks for sharing your story and sorry to hear about your father passing.
You learn a lot when watching your channel. Thank you for sharing this .
You're welcome. thanks for watching.
Bondo has a doctorate in the school of concrete. Appreciate the way you explain things. In my carpentry days, I saw lots of different concrete companies doing small and large jobs. You are among the best I've ever seen. Attention to detail and a lot of years in the business keep you on top of it.
Thank you for the comment. 😀
Always mesmerizing to watch a slab be formed with skill.
Thank you 😀
So awesome to see your attention to details such as dry slump worth the extra work and benefits. I had one job done with a pump and it did not hold up well even with relief cuts. The next small drive pad was done with five inches, rebar tied to the existing, wire, low slump, and so happy with it. Dealt with the scale issue, and now I know why. Thanks
Thanks Steve. Some people have no idea how important pouring it with a low slump is to the long term performance of the slab.
@@bondobuilt386 In warm dry weather you also have to keep a low slump pour damp for a couple days, and cover it up. Low slump concrete is thirsty and needs to absorb water to fully harden, but in cold damp weather you don't need much like this barn. Sometimes we'd put old burlap sacks over a large floor, and wet those down, like the next day after the finish trowel with the machine.
As always a great educational experience in concrete. Appreciate your videos and hope it the learnings will help me find the right guy to pour my slap next year.
Thanks and I am glad to help.
Lovin’ how you explain things.❤
Thanks 😀
Once the weather turns nice I'm gonna be using the tips that y'all give out to us regular ppl. I'll be trying to get the mud down and having some knowledge of slump and the tools involved helps a ton!
Glad to help buddy
Very cool how you can tell what the slump is by just looking at it, I guess after hundreds of pours you just know. Might be interesting to your viewers to see how a slump cone actually works. When I was a maintenance manager, we would supervise concrete pours for parking lots and building addition slabs. We'd carry a cone, check slump, and (if I recall correctly) refuse anything over 6". A lot of the concrete guys wanted it real loose to make it easier on themselves, I really like how you do it, makes for a much better and stronger pour, even if it doesn't look much different. Thanx for all of the videos.
Thanks I did a video where a slump test was done and I videoed it all.
@@bondobuilt386 Cool, I'll find it and check it out. I've been watching your vids for a while now, but have not seen all of them, you have a pretty big library.
I'm old school too, I only used plasticizer on a couple of slabs. The mud company always called my slump "Phil's 4 inch slump", I poured stiffer than anybody in my area. I think I got a better finish & like you say, a stronger slab. Keep the great videos coming.
Thanks Phil. I think the stiffer poured slabs turn out better especially poured in spring or fall when it is cool out and the dry slower.
Many years ago I did work on sea walls in south Florida. We made dock platforms on the sea walls up to 60" .
We never used plasticizer in the mix.
I can’t imagine you would, you’d be asking for a blow out if you had.
Yup for sure @@Musclecar1972
Nice job. Thanks for sneaking a picture of the dog in.
Everybody loves Row. 😀
🎉... Big B is the man ... Props to him....he needs an raise or at least a bounce...he is always there and will work.... while everyone else wants to supposedly go home....bar .....😮....JJ...😊....
I believe using plasticizers increases the strength of concrete due to being able to pour at lower slump (pour at 3 and behaves like 8) and this reduced water ultimately gives the concrete higher strength. Also for pumpers the use of a plasticizers can help keep the mix at low slump while also allowing it be pumped. Does it matter at the end of the day if its slightly stronger? Probably not.
We used a small amount of plasticizer and air entrainment when pumping foundations, some call it water reducer. Big 3 story buildings so we needed strong concrete, but like he said, you can't pump low slump concrete very well, plus you would end up with a lot of voids in the walls after the forms came off, we called that honeycomb, and I hated that. Plus the concrete needs to fully cover and get around the rebar or it'll crack later. Too much plasticizer though is not good, the stone settles too much plus the concrete shrinks more. Sometimes you don't want 5000 psi concrete, the higher the psi, the more I found it shrinks, and that causes it's own problems. A good rule with plasticizers is only use just bare minimum, as little as you can get away with.
Back in the 90's when I was doing foundations for small apartment buildings, we only used a little bit of super plasticizer when pumping the walls, all our foundations were poured, no blocks, and the plasticzer helped keep the pump happy, a lot of the walls we were reaching out 100 feet over rough terrain from where the truck could get to. Garage floors we did like this, no additives. In the crawlspaces we poured a thin 2" slab, with pea gravel kind of wet about a 6" slump since they were just for cover and non-structural. Without plasticizer would have been either too hard to pump, plus would be hard to vibrate the concrete so it would get down in the wall forms and around the rebar properly. There was a 6 foot high foundation wall 300 feet long along the front road side of the property that the brick layers came back and laid a decorative brick wall and gates for the main entrance, we poured that in January so we had to add a bit of calcium to the fix, when we pulled off the forms the next day it was still a little green. Temps that night dropped to about 34, just above freezing so it was good we did, it was taking awhile to set up as it was. We used a pumper for just about the entire 160 acre job site, was there at that site for nearly a year, 50 weeks we took two weeks off around Xmas/New Years.
Ronny….. hope you had a nice Christmas and Santa was good to you. Thanks for the info on pumps and slump. When was this poured? And…. When you price these jobs, do you figure extra manpower in your quote? And do you inform the customer of details on how it’s being poured? Thanks Buddy…. Having coffee while the Bondo/Biscuit Team lay down some mud.
Nice job, Ron. Nice to pour in fall, but the leaves are a PIA. Hope 2024 brings a good year for you.
Nice work brother. Happy new year.👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
We found a line pump here in Utah that’ll pump a low slump. But we’re familiar with the wheelbarrow 😂 keep it up boys!
What kind of pump was it buddy?
@@bondobuilt386 line pump. (Trailer pump) Pumps big rock. So we don’t have to change to pea gravel mix. Crazy they charge 1k in your area. These guys will pump two truck and handle the line and pump for us for 800 bucks.
@@bondobuilt386 I have some clips of them on my shorts and videos
Ya thats not bad. We get charged $1000 and we have to man the line with our guys. LOL. Then you have to line up with they're schedule and the concrete schedule together. @@Utahconcrete801
Other pumps here you gotta do that too. We’ve used these guys for almost 9years now. Small family business. They run 4 pumps to cover all vip clients 😂. Anyways love your channel bud keep it up!! Shout out to big biscuit! Doin it for the big boys!!
Hey Ron. Enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Hoping to get a pad poured for my pole barn next summer 2024.
I'm in the Rome, NY area and was wondering if that is an area you cover? If so, do you have a website with your contact info? Looks like Circle T Cement is out of the Oneida area.
You should make a scroll across the bottom of the video that says something like 'The wire was pulled up. The wire was pulled up. The wire was...' Might cut back on the arm chair concrete guys comments 😁
The arm chair guys will still talk about the wire mesh. Drives me crazy. LOL
Good pudding makes the job so much easier. I found the best way to teach them, put them on a screed and when the load gets heavy they understand.
My Dad was the best puddler for me but when he retired I had a very hard time finding a new guy that could do it as good as my Dad ! Which made strait edging by yourself more difficult ! At the end of a 10 yard pour I was whooped !
Looks nice good work 😊
Mike day pours his concrete super runny
What does it mean when they say they put fiber in it what does a fiber do for the concrete
They make a fiber to add to the concrete and it gets mixed in and makes the concrete stronger.
Hey bondo did you get the leaf out of the mud on that first wheelbarrow?
Man I don't think so. LOL
@@bondobuilt386 yeah it was right when the mud started to hit the wheelbarrow it was orange i think. LOL
3:48 didn't want to add sluice extensions?
Have been pouring concrete for forty years. Never used plasticizers Many jobs it wasn’t permitted. Floors I have seen poured by others with plasticizers tend to craze crack.
Thanks for the info from a veteran 👍
144 👍's up BB thank you for sharing 😊
Thanks Scott
Good crew
Thanks John
What happens when you schedule a truck but it rains or something?
All flat no pipes and beams that's a finishers dream floor right there. And they don't have to burn it ...
I think plasticeizer is cool for things like colums & beams with lots of rebar so the concret can get all around the steel. slabs NO!
Ya I agree. We have a little bit in a poured ICF wall as well but not in slabs. Mike Day puts it in all his slabs in Maine though
So I'm not good at concrete, most of my floors I'll do with 4500, air entrained, addmixture if its warm out, 4.5 to 5.5 slump its heavy and screeding takes effort and either hand or power trowel after a bunch of floating. I've never had any cracks, almost every slab I've had floor guys do they run the slump maybe 6 or 7 and slap the floor in with record time but then I get the hairline cracks every place. On outdoor stuff, I'll usually put a freeze block, 2x the slab thickness around the edge and drop in a single #4 rebar all around the perimeter and usually fiber reinforced. The floor guys that pour it sloppy and wet seem to get lots of hairline cracks.
Mingia 2 wheeled wheelbarrow is nice. Means big biscuit won't tip er over.
what is the best way to set a wet pad / wet screed level if you dont have a fancy laser level system?
A stake with a nail in it at the right height
6 ft bullfloat is the only way to go. bought one about 8 yrs ago and never looked back. i keep a 4 ft bullfloat on my truck for when we do smaller stuff plus i like to have a backup just in case.
after all, one is none and two is one, right?
right.
floor looks good.
Love the 6" float Ted
Concrete is looking better, not so boney as it has been in the videos. Plasticizer is ok, but if you’re not paying close attention when it starts coming out, you can end up scrubbing the concrete if it gets ahead of you before you realize it. As for the leafs, just trowel them in, if the customer says anything, tell him they’re fossils, and you usually charge extra for them, but because he’s a good customer, they’re free of charge! LOL 😂
Don't you get the same strength if you have it wetter by using super plasticizers?
Okay, you talked about plasticizers. I should have waited until the video was over before commenting.
No problem 👍@@stevenpringle7813
I would use wheelbarrows to save a grand on the pump truck that pays the guys for the day.
Yup for sure
20 minutes earley = 20 minutes hotter concrete. the supplier loaded it too soon. after 35 years in this game, my main mission was to look out for the customer. you guys first! my boss second.
Yes I hate to complain when they are early but it can mess things up.
understood. one time i arrived about 20 minutes early and was "talked to". I looked at the lead guy, and not saying a word:I drove off. came back about 17 minutes later. got a smile, & a cool ok let's pour it. ✌ @@bondobuilt386
Go biscuit!
How did he get the name “biscuit “ ?
What determines the size of the squares for the control joints ?
Concrete control joints should be no less than ¼ of the total thickness of the slab (1” deep for a 4” thick pour) and placed no less than 2-3 times (in feet) the thickness (in inches) of the slab (8-12 feet apart for a 4” thick pour). Equal spacing unless some design is required.
I've never poured concrete but about to attempt a 20×24×4 I'm in arkansas what's the easiest slump I could get away with. It's a 2×2 square tubing metal building that will be used as a "get away from the wife" building so nothing super heavy will ever be in it 😂
th-cam.com/video/4KdoJY3JjeE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=271AliAEVwM0ZCp1
Looks like a pro craftsman here. You putting up affordable housing for Gov Hookey Pookies new children?
What is the point of adding the wire and lifting it if all the guys walk around on it and smash it all the way down? Shouldn't it be in the middle and not at the bottom?
The wire should be near the bottom putting it on the tension side of the slab not on the middle. as weight is put on top of the concrete the wire does the best near the bottom. The low slump concrete works way better to hold the wire up vs a loose concrete pour with a lot of water or plasticizer.
@@bondobuilt386thanks for the reply
👍
Morning buddy
@@GRUBB-MUDD good morning ✌
Plasticiser always weakens final concrete PSI however if a self consolidating mix is required and a plasticizer is used silca fume can be added along with 3/4" fiberglass fibers or better yet besalt fibers which need to be added at jobsite for fibreglass fibres to remain intact to enhance cured strength. Ray Stormont
Where's Gofer? The Governor
This video was at the end of our 2022 season he will be back in the spring
Big biscuit
Hmmmmm.......
😀
You didn't broom it.
Dont understand why you use wire mess and not elevated rebar. You say you pull the wire up into the wet cement as you work but then all your guys go back in and walk on top of it.....are you going to tell us that the cheap flimsy wire is holding their weight and stays suspended???
Not sure how you could wheel barrow over suspended wire or rebar?We pull it up and it ends up towards the bottom of the slab on the tension side of the slab. This low slump concrete and the stone holds it up enough where it is suppose to be.Our slabs perform real good and I have poured 1000's of them this way.
I would think it that wire was pulled up with the concrete falling under it you couldn't put it on back on the ground if you tried.
These are cheap slabs for cheap customers. Not to be compared to real slabs with proper rebar and mesh.
Send me a link to your channel so I can see how you do it. @@viktorstrigeus5800
@@viktorstrigeus5800 when do you think these slabs will fail?
That’s not very dry
Plasticizer in concrete. Not better. Plasticzer in mortar. Wayyyyyyyy good.
20 minutes early vs. 2 hours late...... Stop complaining....