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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2013
- What to Watch For When Purchasing a Motorcycle - Ninja 250
Kawasaki Ninja 250 purchasing heads up.
What to look for:
rusted bolts
if the bike has been dropped
oil level
breaks
slider scuffs
engine sound
transmission clicking and grinding
cold start with on choke
abuse of any kind.
Hope this helps
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08 original owner here with 12k miles. Your clutch handle point was wrong. The cable is adjustable at both ends. Even with this you cant look at the clutch cable adjustment to know where the clutch is at healthwise. The cables do stretch and depending on where the previous owner liked their clutch drag on the bars will also influence the stretch.
Someone dropping any motorcycle is hardly a cause for concern. Do manufacturers think this is even a possibility? They do and a bike that has been down even at low speed is not a cause for concern, especially from a buyer who is likely most likely to drop it anyways.
On the handle bar bolts, a bike left outside is a problem? No. Sorry. The first thing I did when I purchased my bike is to buy stainless replacements for the muffler, handlebars, side covers, and gas cap....because they were black oxide which oxidizes basically no matter what. Motorcycles are to an extent designed to be all weather machines. This explains the sealed controls, harness connections, intake design, etc. Rusty screw heads are aesthetic and in no way hamper the functionality of the machine. Don't like it? Swap it out.
Chains, they can get nasty and dirty quick. I clean mine with kero and butter it with Wurth hhs. When I don't that thing will look like a rusted pos in no time flat. If there is light orange surface rust there is no cause for concern. If you're really concerned, then look at the condition of the chain o-rings. If they're dry and cracked then reconsider. If they're just dirty and nonpitted rusty then it's something you can take care of.
The transmission shifting on these bikes gets wonkier as they age and that is not a poor sign of maintenance or health. There is a ball and spring mechanism that gets finicky with age and that is all. It's usually not a problem while driving in gear and more of a problem when you're trying to park the mofo and trying to find positive neutral.
On the brake wear. You can't control this. Pad manufactures, no matter how good, cannot control for a random concentration of heavy wear resistant concentration of particles in every pad set. On that note, rotors and pads are dirt cheap so this is hardly a deal breaker.
On the oil. Its easy to fudge up the level on a bike while reading it. What's important is that the oil looks fresh. If a seller just did a change for you then it's very possible that they need to add more oil. So don't nitpick them if the oil looks low as long as it looks clean. For the noobs, level changes as you run for a few secs too.
My personal experience buying motorcycles is that you:
1. Need to look at the front forks. Do the seals look fresh and are they lubing the forks when you hold the front brake and bash down on the front end? If not then the whole front of the bike may need to be ripped apart to replace them. For stuck grit on leaky seals there is a cheap tool that'll take that out without having to tear it down, but if the seals are in plain old bad shape then you're in for a job. Bottom line. Front forks should look clean for at least the first 1 to 2 inches away from the seals.
2. Bring tools. Pull the bike open. literally. These machines are meant to be dissected for maintenance purposes and they're designed for such. For example, the air filter is an owner maintainable item requiring panels to be removed. There should be no problem for a seller to allow you to look "underneath the hood". On that note, look at the air filter first! A disintegrated air filter is a number one reason to reject a bike sale. Been there.
3. Inspect the oil for coolant. On most bikes the coolant pump is connected to the drive system which requires a complex sealing mechanism within the water pump that separates the water from the oil chamber. If the water pump seals start to fail then the high pressure of the hot coolant system will force water into the oil system. If water has diluted the oil for extended periods then it's possible other accelerated damage may be present in the motor that might not pop up for many miles to come. This one can be tough to notice unless you ride the bike extensively when you first get it. If you do start to notice water in the oil then check your local lemon laws to see if you can return the problem instead of having to deal with it later. If it starts to look like a chocolate milkshake then take it back.
4. Check the condition of the coolant. This may take a trained eye. Pop the cap. If it looks very opaque then it probably hasn't been maintained well. White particles are normal from oxidation in aluminum systems, but too much of this will lead to a non translucent water and this could mean that this has gone on long enough for there to be buildup in the smaller cooling paths throughout the motor. Not really a deal breaker because of the flushing products available, but it could be an indicator as to how well the machine was cared for.
5. Condition of the cable ends. Inspect all cable ends. If they're jacked up and holding on by a literal thread then consider that a bargaining chip. They must be replaced though so consider the cost.
With that, there are a number of things to consider when purchasing a used bike. It's important to know part cost for a particular vehicle prior to pressing a seller to lower price on worn parts. especially when the seller knows the cost is negligible. There are a few indicators that can say a bike hasn't been taken care of. Some rust from being stored outdoors is also a fickle argument as that can be fixed if desired this is unless the seller is asking for a premium. Regardless, of your still baffled then it really helps to take someone who knows what to look for along to help you decide whether or not your getting a clean deal. Ride safe everyone.
Excellent write up. Good to see there are still people that really know what they are talking about. Not just spouting bullshit.
151rumsnow Thanks. Now that I've re-read it, it could use some editing. Typing on this phone sucks and I can't edit now. :/
don't forget checking inside of gas tank and tires
Dominick Buffaline Yes. Dry rotted sidewalls means new tires. Check the fuel filter too.
Thanks for your effort it was a great read very educating 👌salute
Also, make sure the motorcycle engine is COLD before starting. Many used bikes and cars have cold start problems and the owner will get the bike warm before you come look at it, so the engine will start and run better for you. Ask when you get there if it was running recently, no matter the answer, touch it, make sure it's cold. You will either catch the owner in a lie and you should walk away or he was telling the truth, the engine is cold and you should continue with the inspection.
Thank you for the information. I’m about to go meet up with a guy with the same bike and everything. Anything else I should know?
@@keenanbojorcas7340 Yes, I never buy a car or motorcycle without having a qualified mechanic inspect it first. Spend the $50 or whatever the fee is for a shop that knows about the brand of vehicle they'll be inspecting. Yes, this is a cost of buying a vehicle above the buying price and taxes etc. BUT the inspection might find hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of problems you will need to fix, so it is definitely worth the 20-30 minute inspection. It should include: wheels, tires, brakes, cables, frame, oil, chain / shaft, electrics, kickstand, suspension and anything else the mechanic or yourself can see or access. Check things like the air filter and tire pressure... if the owner can't bother to keep the tires inflated properly {which is a safety issue}, than he probably doesn't do much to maintain the motorcycle. Same with the air filter, if he can't bother to clean leave etc. out of it or replace that simple and cheap item, then the bike is most likely not maintained well. These are just clues as to how the bike has been treated. Do these simple things before taking the bike in to the shop and spending your money. If the owner is unwilling to take the bike to the garage of your choosing {try to have it nearby his house, so you don't inconvenience him and set the time with the garage after checking with the owner to see if he's available at that time}, then he's most likely hiding something and you should forget about that motorcycle. ALWAYS have a qualified mechanic look at ANY vehicle you're considering buying, new or used.
I must have spent at least $5,000 on pre-purchase inspections in the last 20 years buying and selling vehicles and I don't regret a single dollar. It's the fer vehicles I bought before, without inspections that I regret and sank well over $5,000 into those few vehicles alone due to repairs that were needed that I didn't know about.
Also, ask for any service records. Even if they're just oil change receipts, they will tell you if the oil and filter was changed on time. If the bike is older, it should have a history of brake and suspension work at least. If the owner says something like "I do all of my own work", then a responsible owner should still have the receipts for the parts he bought etc. and still keep a record of the oil changes, chain lubing etc.
I don't mean to drowned you in info but all of this is important. Also, have enough money to buy all of your riding gear. Having your flesh torn from your bones is painful and can take a year to get over. This includes gloves, you won't be able to work for months or wipe your own butt if you lose the skin on your hands. :) Just be safe out there, people are nuts nowadays.
Thanks bro! I saw this video and yesterday when I bought my new ninja 250r 09 I remembered your tips and made a solid buying decision
Buying my first 2012 ninja 250 tomorrow and been watching your videos!!
This is your best video yet. The less sound effects and joking around the better. This was a very informative and helpful video. Thank you.
you pointed out in your video that if the clutch releases to late that your clutch is shot. a motorcycle clutch is very very hard to wear out near impossible. in your case there are most likely 2 different areas along your cable that can adjust the tension of the cable due to the cable stretching so by adjusting those point you can have it engage where you want user preference.throttle cable is the same if you can turn the throttle and there is play you can tighten it up. no big deal. great vid man
Awesome.. just finished the basic rider course and thinking abt buying a kawasaki ninja 250r. Your videos are really helping me on choosing a bike. Great work man.. Keep i up.
I would have to disagree, with many things said, in these type videos, and here is why, in a brief way.
Depending on the gen, or year of a Ninja 250r, like valve checks & adjustments are necessary part of a bike's life, more so on the older gen bikes, the 1st & 2nd gen bikes need to be adjusted at a lower mileage, which you should lookup before seeing the bike, and make sure it's been done, if not done, even with a few thousand miles over, doesn't necessarily mean the bike is bad, take that into account when buying.
Checking & adjusting just takes time, and know how, and many people do not do it, or care to, or get another to check & adjust the valves because of cost, or lack of know how, and or just being lazy, the gen3 bikes have a shim under bucket, and go much longer, before they need to be checked, look it up for each bike type.
2# The gear shifting is a little more clunky on certain models, and if the oil is old it makes it worse also, doesn't meant the transmission is going out, as stated, it may only mean the oil needs changed.
3# The clutch engagement area, is adjustable somewhat, so it may be adjusted for their hand size, as to where it's friction zone is, doesn't mean the clutch is worn out, unless there is excessive slipping while going into gear, more so under hard shifts, the wrong motor oil can do the same thing as well, like car oils with friction modifier for older cars, it's not good for wet clutches. DO NOT USE !!!
If the miles is low, like under 6 to 12k miles the bike should not be worn out, unless it's been raced most of it's life, and not taken care of at all. Another thing, you can't say a motor is good by the sounds the exhaust makes necessary.
A simple test to do, is put a piece of paper to cover the opening of the muffler & it sucks the paper back, be it a car or bike, it most like has a burnt valve, because of no valves adjustment when needed.
Also bikes with cats, will have a different temp exhaust pulse, than a early model bike.
A hard to start bike, could mean the valves need adjusting, also depended on temps outside & mods done, and even to thick of motor oil in the winter, or cold temps.
Go to the bikes forum, and get all this info, before looking at the bike !!! There will be normal wear & tear, with use of any bike, remember it's used, not new, if it is to look new, expect to pay more it.
Aftermarket parts don't necessarily make the bike worth more money, the owner did that on his own dime, to their own liking, many times they try to get way more money back for these items, a stock bike, with few exceptions with hold more resale value, things like seats windscreens do add some value, if wanted.
Always go to the forums to find the good & the bad & the ugly, about each bike you're looking to buy, and don't rush, take a friend who you will listen too.
Also find out the true reason for saying a bike is forgiving, instead of the ones being used so very often these days, because it's a joke, better yet the wrong word..Thats my 2.222222222 cents. lol
Not only did your channel inspire me to get a Ninja 250r for my 1st bike 2 weeks ago, but this vid was the biggest help of all! I took my sweet time on Kijiji until I found the perfect deal. Got a 2010 Special Edition with only 4000 km's on it. Fair price, near perfect condition. Thanks Pwns.
I want to get that bike in the future how is it price wise comfort and ride wise ?
Wow your entry wisdom. Don’t get too excited… GOLD
A lot of good reasons to buy from a reputable dealer. I grew up with dirt bikes and got my first Ninja in '05. I just traded that one in for the 2014 300se. Super sweet ride.
i ride a ninja 250 2009... great bike my first one as well. bought it before i took the safety course. best of luck
This video is beyond fantastic and clear so, thanks. The only I can think to add is that if you do take it out to drive, when downshifting from 2nd to 1st, with my experience with bikes the Ninja is the only one I've been on where the bike somewhat kicks or jumps forwards. It will do this if you shift while you're still traveling at a decent pace (I.E: rolling down a hill and shifting for a stop) I recommend shifting from 2-1 in nearly the same motion as putting your foot down on the ground.
I needed this! Love your page man
Thanx man.. i bought a kawasaki ninja 250 too. year 2009. I'm loving this thing.
you just got a subscriber! I think I want this to be my first bike and I'm going to see a couple of used ninja 250 in a few days so this really helped! thanks
6:15 thank god for this shot. I bought a Ninja 250 a few days ago and noticed the "ticking" noise today. Thought it might be something to do with valve clearance but it sounds exactly like yours, if not fainter
my neighbor was mowing his lawn and as you said it I could hear the noise outside haha. cool thanks man
You missed a very important thing, the condition of the tires :^)
the tires can be changed any time, but if its not changed before selling, you can see the sights of burnout and fast braking
+Pcdeivis so can everything on the bike haha
D&M Music it's a bargaining chip for talking down the price
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btw you can adjust your clutch cable so if it is hitting the friction zone too far out you can adjust it so it will be closer in. it doesnt always mean your "clutch doesnt have much left.".
quite helpful and very straight forward advice im looking at investing in the same model in the next coming months thanks for the help.
So I am going to buy a Ninja 250R the next weekend. It's gonna be my first bike pretty much and I gotta say this video was very helpful...so I know what to look for. Well tbh this video was both comforting and concerning...The guy I am buying the bike from lives 8 hours away and since it's winter I wont have a chnce to testdrive it. (Biggest problem)..Then again thanks to this video I'll know what to look for in the garage and further more I'm feeling a bit better about this purchase since the guy I am buying it from is a friend of a friend and as far as ive been told..he takes good care of his bikes. He owns multiple right now which i guess is a good sign so hopefully all goes well for me with this purchase...Thanks for the video
Thanks alot for this. It helps alot, I am looking to buy a 250 like that, and wasnt sure of what to look for. Ive been a car guy, just now been getting into riding, and its amazing. I really can't wait till I can find a good 250 to buy.
thanks for videos man , really helping me on choosing a bike
I like your videos i am taking my msf class nxt mnth i am ecstatic i have been watching your how too vids all day and have a decent idea on what to expect i am looking at a red 2012 ninja 250 just need the funds but that's soon enough...thank u for the insightful and funny videos
Really helpful vid dude, thanks! Buying that same bike today, my first one
Excellent video. Thanks for making it mate.
Great video.I'm a newby and soon will buy a used bike.Great advice and tips.Learned a lot from you
Did you ever get a bike?
I didn't notice anything but the bike until you pointed out the carpet and stuff haha
On older bikes, check the oil cap really well. If there is a lot of dark build up on the oil cap, it’s not been maintained, it goes a lot of miles between oil changes. This is true of cars, bikes, mowers everything. If the oil build up on the cap is really burnt it has gone a ton of miles between changes.
Good advice. Thank you.
I lucked out...was as dumb as a stump when I bought my 2004, 1100 Spirit (Aug, 2011)...It turned out to be a great bike with relatively low milage (5,400) for it's age. It's now coming up on 10 model years old still runs like new. Now has 12k miles on odo. I need to get my ride fix just about every day. I did take the Rider Safety Course at the local Harley dealer. Very worth it.
This is very helpful, Thanks buddy
Just a side note for the clutch test you did. The thing you did only shows weather your cables or tight or not. It's just a couble of screw to tighten to move the grip-zone. Without knowing it for sure, I would suggest you would have to open it up or feel it while driving to tell the condition it's in.
I just looked at this bike at a dealership. I'm considering this for my first bike and this really helps! I'll be sure to check all this stuff out when I got to look again. Thanks for the video! :)
So, did you end up getting that bike?
I didn't :(
Still no bike?
check forks head bearing do INSPECTION on underside of clutch cover AND stater cover CAN let u KNOW if lowsided . start bike when its cold check if cold by feeling engine. ask him for service records inspect coolin FLUID hoses. make sure no jb weld ANYWHERE u CAN tell alot FROM cold start . look at brake fluid pop seat AND cowl see if bad wiring. bring fluke meter checks charging system look for junkyard identification make sure vin on MOTOR matches vin on frame and vin under seat LOOK for aftermarket parts and visualize fitment
check the break and clutch levers as well for the scratches and dings on the fuel tank.
most people can replace the cowlings of fairings but do not change the levers.
same thing as the tires, check thread and cracks. look for "flat spots"
nice video, I just wanted to add a small tip regarding the clutch. If you want to test it, all you need to do is to start the bike, put in first gear, hold front brake and release the clutch slowly to the point where it suppose to start moving with a little rev. if the bike makes weird noise or you can feel the clutch disk sliding (it is noticeable) then the clutch is screwed up if it is giving a very firm grip when holfing and releasing the clutch then it is good.
have a safe ride.
Your not surpose to use the front brakes dude, how u going to rev? Its the back brake u use , That's terrible advise 🤣
about the clutch, i thought motorcycle clutches are encased with oil so it doesn't burndown like car clutch?
just wondering, still new to bikes (i don't even own one yet.. lol i have the license though)
Thanks for the tips actually just picked up my ninja 250 2010 and used this video for reference lol thanks again man
Is it a good starter bike?
@@yaboital4394 great
Good video bro will definitely put info to use
Wow this was actually a really great video
great info, thanks man.
I have a few videos on learning to ride. I will be putting up more soon. best advise i can give is to learn to shift gears before getting on a bike. Most sport quads shift the same as a bike. if you learn on a quad you dont have to worry about keeping balance. it is hard keeping balance on a bike if you dont know how to shift gears.
good information. thanks for sharing.
"And the neighbor is mowing the lawn..shuuuut up." lol. I want to get another "motorceeeeecle."
You might just need to adjust your clutch gripping zone, not big deal. So you woul need tocheck how much thread is left for adjustment.
clutch lever thing is missleading : the lever is ajustable .
what you could do is ajust it half way . and check how much "play" you have on the friction point.i think that be a better assesment of clutch wear. ( dont know anything just my opinion) check for cable wear aswell on that . ( its somthing you will have to replace thus pay for)
I would also check the sprockets. make sure that the sprockets are a sort of "plateau" shape and not completely pointed and sharpened. that means they neglected the sprocket maintenance.
Plateau? Like Flat or rounded?
Great tips thanks!!
On the clutch problem that you talked about, "if the clutch lets out really far then its almost gone". Well some people move the sweet spot for their bikes so its probably a good idea if the owner did anything to the clutch. ^^
I bought one. Needed two new mirrors, it had two left mirrors and rotated upside down, new front indicators, horrible mini ones fitted. Wiring had been hacked around badly by a 5 year old with scissors. Various screws replaced with odd bolts and screws. New tyres, front was original 12 years old with cracks. Rear had gone square. It had just passed an inspection and had a service... before the private sale. It needed a coil sticks, two spark plugs and an air filter. It had 12k 2008 and 6 young riders with no experience using it.
So beware of this when buying these small bikes.
thanks video very informative .. I am looking of getting on of those exactly as a first bike . and I feel I could handle it . I am not a vehicle racing fanatic . just wanna have a nice bike to drive in town ..
was very helpful..thank you so much..
Great video!
Thanks for the infos!
My first and current bike is a 2009 Ninja. Wish I had seen this prior as I paid $2000 for it and it is ruff
Nice video. Thanks!
How far out the clutch grips usually has nothing to do with how much clutch there is left, it can easily be adjusted by turning on the wheel on the bar with the clutch. My ninja 300 grips right at the end right out of the factory, probably to make it easy to shift with just 2 fingers, since it is a very light clutch.
7:17 if the grip is at a low point fitst check the wheel at the end of the clutch handle you can adjust it, if it's all the way in turn it out a bit. if you have to turn it out almost to the end and the grip is still low then the clutch is gone
Hey would you recommend this bike to someone who has never owned a bike before and is just starting out? Also is it good as a daily? Thank you very much for the advise in this video i really enjoyed it.
Good info. Thanks
I love the ninja 250. Cheap on gas and goes for miles. Nice and light too. What year is the one in this video?
My 2001ninja ex250 i bought 200$ in total parts put it together and did a good carb clean i even cracked the carburetor where the diaphragm is and it runs like a champ can hit 100 easily and still holds up everythings good did one good oil change ran it and changed it after running it came with 2 gas tanks and 2 carbs and its strong man its been laid down a few times and its fairing is cracked in half but its still good
When I had my dirtbike, shifting into any gear (maybe -neutral) would have a nice loud thud and feel to it...
my friend on another dirtbike about 10ft away could heat it well... drove it for many years like that... the only weird thing that would happen, is that idk if I shifted up too low rpm, but it would like clutch in, even tho its out, and then jump back in 5 seconds later... also drove it many years like that, when I sold it, it was still running like a champ.
Thud..lol
I'm looking to buy my first bike, I think a 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250 is what I"m going with :)
you should change title to what to watch for when buying a used motorcycle, it helps alot.
+Alex Shi What else would it mean? What would you need to look for with a new bike other than preference? Which at that point he can't tell you what to prefer.
How much is your gasoline consumption approximately, do you think it worth, and how does it feel in the city, is it easy to drive and turn?
Clutch lever is adjustable. A lot of the sounds you hear coming from the "engine" is actually from the clutch basket. To verify, while in gear slowly let out clutch till it just engages, just touches, not enough to move you. More likely then not that will make the motor sound "cleaner". This noise is normal and not indicative of any problem or neglect. Brake rotor grooving is not much of an issue, checking pad thickness is a much better indicator. The transmission, shifting nonsense, was just that. They do burn oil, and leak it.
But the thing that really made me post is this. Maybe this is just my experience but every single "well put together" person I know or have met takes care of their "stuff" like shit. Every single one without exception. They come from a entitled, throw away culture and words like "upkeep" and "preventative maintenance" just are not in their vocabulary. Like my roommate, very "put together" on the outside, loan officer, very preppy, likes to wear overpriced crap cause of the name on it and a super douchebag on the inside. Perfect example. Recently gave me a 05 ninja ex 250r in mint condition, stock, factory flawless paint (black and green beautiful) and 4,300 miles on it, still in the "break in" period, for free, because it wouldnt start, because he didnt ride it for two years and left the gas on. No staybil, nothing. Not one single bit of maintenance done for the five years he owned it. This bike vibrates, all the bolts are supposed to be gone through and retightened at like 600 miles. Almost every bolt was loose. The front motor mount bolt was literally half way out, over 2 inchs, no threads holding it, just the fairing. Tie rod bolt and nut very lose and somehow stripped. Swingarm bolt, nut missing, being held in by magic and luck. He filled the crankcase with oil, filled it, because his banker friends said it needed oil. No one knew about the sight window. I dont know how they knew it needed oil, but there you go, a bunch of "put together" douchebags doing the opposite of maintaining the bike. BTW doing that, its very very bad, took me a long time to fix all the problems that created. I told him it would be 80 bucks total to rebuild both carbs, that was too much so he just gave it to me cause "I'll just go get another one".
This is just one example of far too many. If they are well put together I would personally walk away. Unless they have receipts for maintenance done, at a shop. You could ask tthem something simple "what weight oil do you use," I doubt they will know. (I use 20w50)
By the way, I rebuilt the carbs for free and it runs great. I've put 1,500 miles on it in the last month. And oh yeah, I look like shit.
I don’t know if this counts or not, but the clutch thing you mentioned would’ve stopped me from getting my first bike, if I watched this video first. I now own a 2020 Ninja 400 ABS, and the clutch, well, it’s a 2020 in 2020 with zero miles on the bike when I got it, yet the clutch releases and grabs WAAAAAAAAY up there where you mentioned is the wore out clutch zone. So I guess some things you mentioned are things to consider, but they may vary with different situations and bikes and owners?
Same here. I own a 2010 with only 500 miles on it so it's practically brand new and the friction zone on mine is near the end also. I don't think that my clutch is done, I think his(OP) is though.
Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, seeing as I've only ridden for about six months; but I think the clutch is only suppose to kick in that last 20-30%. You can adjust it however you want to (easy to do, just Google it for your bike). I mean, in the end, go with whatever makes you most comfortable, but unlike all the other items you mentioned, I don't believe the friction zone of the clutch has anything to do with having a bad clutch. Great video and speaking voice though! :)
Actually, yeah, found it in the manual:
"Clutch lever play 2∼3 mm (0.08∼0.12 in.).
Clutch lever operates smoothly."
Here's the entire manual, with the clutch information being under Safe Operation. :)
www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/showOM.php?view_lang=EN&spec=US&book_no=99987-1549&lang_code=EN
Michael Nicol
the play refers to the slop in the lever before you feel resistance from the clutch. the friction zone can be adjusted by the clicker on the base of the lever, however this usually adjusts the free play as well, some people have small hands and on a ninja 250 spending money on adjustable levers is kind of a waste of money so they adjust extra free play into the lever so the clutch engagement zone is closer to the bar.
hello mate, where i live we tend to take a vehicle to a garage to check it before purchasing, so if i do this do you think that i should still do what you mentioned in the video or is it enough ?
Thanks. I'm looking to get a ninja 250 and this was pretty helpful
In all honesty, start out on a 500 or 600. Everyone said start out on a 250 you're a beginner well guess what... I caught on real quick and now I want something bigger, and I got that back in May. lol So take my word for it.
xdarkreaperzx See the problem is with your statement, everyone is different. Just like you, I started on a 250 and just like you I got bored of it in the same year of owning it. Do I regret starting on a 250? No and yes. It defiantly was forgiving and I was able to learn the basics very smoothly on a 250 where as a 600 SS probably would have been a different story. Although I don't regret starting on a 250, I regret starting a BRAND new 250. I should have started a used cheap 125-250 and got the basics down and resold it for what I purchased it at. I've rode the 500, I wouldnt even consider it close to a 600SS which is why it'd be pointless to learn on as you're going to get bored of that bike anyway and want to upgrade to a 600SS+.
begley09 xdarkreaperzx I've only ever ridden a dirtbike once, and i like going fast too much to start on a 600 ss. I'm also only 17, so what i can talk my parents into also factors into it. I've been thinking about a ninja 250, ninja 500, ninja 650, suzuki sv650, gs500,an fz6, or anything in that sort of area. My main concerns about a ninja 250 are that i won't fit, as i'm 6'4, and that i live in the country a ways, so i'll never go much slower than 60 mph (100 kph), and i'm not sure that a ninja 250 would be able to get up to speed quickly enough to avoid getting killed by a log truck while coming out of my driveway. I'll get to address these concerns when i actually get to test ride one though.
Brennan Johnson Well atleast you're honest about your inner speed demon- maybe you can control that. You will certianly have to when it comes to riding a motorcycle and it doesn't matter which because they can all kill you. Well I would either starting with a ninja 650 or the Suzuki SV 650. I can't pin point 1 bike out that list because those 2 bikes sit completely different. The ninja 650 is a nice cruise upright sport tourer that still has some balls compared to a 250. The Suzuki SV 650, it's like a step under a supersport. It sits exactly like a supersport so its a good way to ease into a supersport once or if you're ever ready. The SV 650 also is a lot more torquey and makes its power down low and it comes standard with ABS.
Thx a lot man!
The clutch handle can be adjusted to grab at any point so that clutch handle thing was wrong.
With kawasaki, if the fairings dont say "ninja" or the model number of the bike like "zx6r" or "650" if any decal is present on one side then missing on the opposite side, big red flag that the fairings have been replaced meaning they are covering a dump.
hey pwnsjones, can you make a video on hot to change the clutch? or would i have to take it somewhere?
check the fork seals by compressing the forks if oil comes out they have been neglected.
Tells the lawnmower guy to shut up xD i had to find that funny, him owning a motorcycle and all.
But im all about the bass, no treble
hey jones what happens if you pour too less oil? course i think i poured 1L of semi oil for my ninja (2009) i saw the requirement was 1.6L. i started riding the bike then. Am i allow to pour oil above half even though the oil is already been started up?
This is so perfect.
if the clutch releases to late just ajust the cable . or you have soft clutch springs they help shifting (for bigger bikes not 250 )
Or your clutch is going out
Or your bike is gonna explode
cool colour bro
I appreciate you sir
dropped in the garage. now I've heard it all. the bikes been dropped at low speeds more like it. look at the right bar end which has paint scratched off the muffler looks like its been repainted and the fairings cracked. 'I've had my cbr 600 fall over and it didn't do any damage to the bike except minor scratches to the fairing.
whats that thing out the bottom of your exhaust? Is it just a valve to open and make it louder?
and the cable length ( lever ) is adjustable so not really a good gage as to clutch wear. also bike clutches dont wear like cars ones do .
Their selling has me a 06 4K miles for 610$ it's leaking gas when he rides it ? And the back tire needs replacing that means he was probably messing with it ? Like burning rubber
oil level, body damage, Why are you selling it? sliders , wear on the chain, brake pads, grooves on the rotor, it makes sense to me lol as a musician (bass and treble) :) listen to the engine, listen for a loud click on the shifter, hands should not be fully extended when releasing the clutch . "if you'd like to add or subtract" lmbo thanks for the info. so basically dont buy it without going to see. it in person.
if it starts without choke it is most likely running a bit rich, do a plug chop to be sure
Odds are your first used bike be it a 250 or 500 was mostly likely purchased by someone as their first bike and it will have been dropped for sure.
Also a bad sign if there isn't the small tapping noise from the engine, aka valves way to tight.
Automotive BRAKES are spelled like this.. taking your lunch BREAK is spelled like that :) Good vid bro lol
I'm interested in a cbr 500R 2014 $3800 he said he bought it brand new with only 1 owner (himself) bike has 5,579 miles he says he "does t really use it as much, and would probably be better used by someone else." What are your thoughts?
Cool motorceeeeclow bro
well i own a 300 and its bran new and the friction zone stock is near the end of the release the clutch
best info ever
Im getting a 2010 Kawasaki ninja 250. And its gunna be my first bike. So idk how to do much stuff. Im basically a noob. But ive wanted a bike since i was like 8. And i heard this was a good starter bike? Any tips?