That repair is a lot better than ripping out a heater box or trying to glue it. I like your German engineering there Thomas. Thanks for the vid and have a good night....
Brilliant fix. You callnit a gwtto fix, i call it a good old Army repair, cant beat cable ties and gaffer tape. Id better get a phillips screwy out. Mines blowing cold and i expect its the very same issue. Cherlers mate.
Thanks for the video! I took away the plastic caps from my '91 diesel, but I have a different system. Looks a little better than on the T4 you showed. The cable is working fine and the heater control valve moves as it should. Can there be a problem with the valve? I have constant hot air from the side grids. Getting hot in the summer, haha.
That foam blockage issue is one of those things that will never make it into a Haynes manual. I think my 94 passat might have this issue since it won't blow hot air even when stationary and fully warmed up engine (even slightly overheating by disconnecting the radiator fan wires). Both my 96 t4, 94 passat and a friend's 90 audi 100 had foam disintegrate to a point it was almost hazardous when chunks would fly at your eyes whole driving 😂
Hi Thomas, great video. Which control actually makes the vent door to move? Is it the on/off, A/C switch that above the temperature control switch? Mine doesn't move the vent door. I am not sure if it's the vacuum line broken? any advise to fix it?
On vehicles with AC, the only door that is moved via a cable is the temperature adjustment door, via the hot/cold lever. The rest of the doors are vacuum operated. Vacuum to the system is supplied via a vacuum hose in the engine bay. It attaches to the HVAC system between the heater core hoses at the firewall.
@@EXOVCDS Thank you for your reply. If the vacuum motor doesn't move at all, will you suggest checking the vacuum line or change the vacuum motor? the part # is: 176 820 676A
Use a vacuum gauge / attach a vacuum gauge to the hose at the actuator (remove hose from actuator and attach gauge to hose. Move the heater levers to see if the vacuum gauge shows vacuum. If the vacuum gauge never moves, then find the cause of no vacuum (broken vacuum hose, bad vacuum check valve, broken lever / vacuum control panel etc). If vacuum IS present, but the actuator does not move, move the actuator manually. If it moves, replace the faulty actuator. If the actuator does not move when you manually try to move it... to could be jammed / the blend door could be jammed.
Yves Chapdelaine yes, the heater core is always circulating hot coolant... there is no heater valve that closes / stops coolant flow. If the van has a rear heater core... there's a flow control valve for that one.
Duct tape, eh? That explains a lot about what I saw when I was doing a heater core in my B4... LOL Should you ever need to make permanent plastic repairs, see if you can find Devcon Plastic Welder. I had some broken pieces mysteriously show up while doing my heater core (totally not my fault. Nope. Not at all...), and while you have to let the stuff set overnight, the bond it makes is stronger than the plastics it can bond. :)
I have converted a vw t4 2.4 d caravelle into a camper ,i cannot thank you enough for the great videos you do, helped me so very much
Thank you for watching!
That repair is a lot better than ripping out a heater box or trying to glue it. I like your German engineering there Thomas. Thanks for the vid and have a good night....
Brilliant fix. You callnit a gwtto fix, i call it a good old Army repair, cant beat cable ties and gaffer tape. Id better get a phillips screwy out. Mines blowing cold and i expect its the very same issue. Cherlers mate.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the video! I took away the plastic caps from my '91 diesel, but I have a different system. Looks a little better than on the T4 you showed. The cable is working fine and the heater control valve moves as it should. Can there be a problem with the valve? I have constant hot air from the side grids. Getting hot in the summer, haha.
Post a video on your channel so that I can see.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for the reply! Fixed it today. Problem was the heater valve. Replaced it and all works as it should :-)
That foam blockage issue is one of those things that will never make it into a Haynes manual. I think my 94 passat might have this issue since it won't blow hot air even when stationary and fully warmed up engine (even slightly overheating by disconnecting the radiator fan wires).
Both my 96 t4, 94 passat and a friend's 90 audi 100 had foam disintegrate to a point it was almost hazardous when chunks would fly at your eyes whole driving 😂
LOL... yeah, I've been hit in the face several times over the years! Thank you for watching!
Hi Thomas, great video. Which control actually makes the vent door to move? Is it the on/off, A/C switch that above the temperature control switch? Mine doesn't move the vent door. I am not sure if it's the vacuum line broken? any advise to fix it?
On vehicles with AC, the only door that is moved via a cable is the temperature adjustment door, via the hot/cold lever. The rest of the doors are vacuum operated. Vacuum to the system is supplied via a vacuum hose in the engine bay. It attaches to the HVAC system between the heater core hoses at the firewall.
@@EXOVCDS Thank you for your reply. If the vacuum motor doesn't move at all, will you suggest checking the vacuum line or change the vacuum motor? the part # is: 176 820 676A
What I mean is the "blender box" actuator.
Use a vacuum gauge / attach a vacuum gauge to the hose at the actuator (remove hose from actuator and attach gauge to hose. Move the heater levers to see if the vacuum gauge shows vacuum. If the vacuum gauge never moves, then find the cause of no vacuum (broken vacuum hose, bad vacuum check valve, broken lever / vacuum control panel etc). If vacuum IS present, but the actuator does not move, move the actuator manually. If it moves, replace the faulty actuator. If the actuator does not move when you manually try to move it... to could be jammed / the blend door could be jammed.
@@EXOVCDS thank you!
Hi, thanks for share, is it normal that I always have hot cooling circulating even I'm in cool (or A/C) position ?
Yves Chapdelaine yes, the heater core is always circulating hot coolant... there is no heater valve that closes / stops coolant flow. If the van has a rear heater core... there's a flow control valve for that one.
Dus Good . 👍👍
Danke!
Duct tape, eh? That explains a lot about what I saw when I was doing a heater core in my B4... LOL
Should you ever need to make permanent plastic repairs, see if you can find Devcon Plastic Welder. I had some broken pieces mysteriously show up while doing my heater core (totally not my fault. Nope. Not at all...), and while you have to let the stuff set overnight, the bond it makes is stronger than the plastics it can bond. :)
+rhkips Thanks for the tip!
Good job and show
+Justin Walker Cheap fix! :)
If it works, it works
Yup... why spend more time on it than needed.
what is the red light on the dash next to the headlight switch? My eurovan has that but I can't find any documentation about what it's for.
Aftermarket... trace the wires to their source.
It is amazing what you can fix with zip ties and duct tape !👍
Must be the Hippie in me!