So sad that you are trying to help people but are clearly concerned ppl are going to criticize you for ur methods, I really hope that didn't happen cause I appreciate this video so much and all ur tips 😘
Thank you so much! I really appreciate you!! There's always going to be those people that think their way is the only way. Art and creating should be fun and therapeutic, I think, and we all create differently what works for one might not work for another. Thanks so much for watching!
Did me two small molds for testing my first time after 12 hrs they look great and hard excited I do woodworking and laser engraving so hope to incorporate this into my projects thanks
I am new to the resin n mica world. I'm trying to start my own small business of Treasures. Do u hav any tips for resin mats, or heaters to use to cure the resin n mica in my molds? I hav a few tools, but I'm just not sure I'm doing it right! Plz excuse the account name my son took it over. I need to make a new one for myself.
I know there are a lot of products out there to help heat your resin to make it cure faster, but I don't use any of them. I let my resin cure on it's own. You have to be very careful with those products because you don't want your resin to flash cure. You don't want to run the risk of losing the integrity of your resin. Ideal conditions are to work in a well vented climate controlled area. I know not all of us can do that, me included. It takes longer for my resin to cure during the winter months. Patience with resin really does pay off in the end. Good luck with your new business! Thanks for watching!!
I can't figure out for the life of me what I am doing wrong. I mix the epoxy & hardener making sure to use equal amounts. Once I stir it until it is clear, I add mica powder. At this point, it looks fine. When I begin to pour my mixture on my vase, it still looks fine in the beginning, but then it begins to get real light (very translucent), and it ends up being only one very faint color. None of the other colors are visible. Please advise. Very disappointed and discouraged. I've tried this so many times.
For vases, I've found the best way to do those is first give them a base coat. It can be white or whatever color matches the colors you're using. I use Rustoleum 2X spray paint. For me, it doesn't matter what kind of colorant I use it never comes out right unless I base coat. It will be very light, like you said, dull and just ugly in my opinion. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Yes, it will. Mica will have more of a pearly luster. If you use pigment paste it will have more of a heavy opaqueness to it. You would also use MUCH LESS pigment paste than mica powder. Thanks so much for watching!
You're welcome! I clean my supplies one of two ways... if I can get them clean before the resin cures, then I first wipe and clean them the best I can with a shop towel (heavy duty paper towel) and then spray and clean them with 91% isopropyl alcohol. If the resin is cured, then I peel it off and wash with soap and water. Hope this helps!? And, thanks so much for watching!
If I can get a second coat on before the 24 hour mark then I usually don't sand. If it's after that, I will lightly sand with a sanding block and clean with 91% isopropyl alcohol, so that the next coat has a "tooth" to hold onto. Hope that helps and thanks so much for watching!
This red is O Negative from Glitter Chimp. glitterchimp.com/collections/mica-powders/products/o-negative-mica-powder?swaction=clearcache Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I use a variety of different brands... Some of my favorites are Meyspring, they come in 50g jars from Amazon, Unicone Art (especially the crushed crystal), they come in 2oz jars from Amazon, the Pearl Ex brand from Hobby Lobby (1/2oz jars), all of the Glitter Chimp Mica Powders, they come in 1oz jars, and I just started using Art Tree Creations micas (20g) and pigment pastes (50g). I am really enjoying those especially the pigment pastes. Pigment pastes work a little differently, you need very little to color your resin. Thanks so much for watching!
No, you don't need a special resin, at least, I don't use anything special. If it's like a painting or decor piece, I just use the General Use Resin from The Epoxy Resin Store. If you're doing something deeper then you'll need a thinner viscosity resin. I don't know what kind of wood you're using but you want to make sure you seal it before using resin. Make sure you sand and then you can seal it with spray paint, clear spray, or acrylic paint. I've used all these methods and never had problems. I also let them dry for at least 24 hours before using them. There's several reasons why resin pulls... the wood isn't sealed, you haven't used enough resin, there's something in that spot like oil from your hands, your resin isn't fully mixed,... If the resin is pulling from the edges try taping around the edge so the resin kind of domes and then after about an hour (depends on the resin, tempature, and humidity) remove the tape and let the resin fall over the edge. If you're using raw wood, like a block from the tree in your back yard, you have to let it dry out for several months before using it, and then I would seal it with several coat of a clear spray. I like Rustoleum the best. To fix the fish eye spots, I wait at least 24 hours and then lightly sand and wipe with 91% isopropyl alcohol before adding another layer of resin. I hope this helps a little. Thanks so much for watching!
Hi I’m not sure if you’re still responding but I was making a pour a few days ago and I used mica powders and I wanted a swirl pattern on the bottom of the mold , however when I demold it I realise the bottom is smooth with no patterns and the top has swirl patterns , I use a 2:1 resin with about 36 hours cure time , any idea how can I fix this ? Is it because the mica sank to the bottom? Would really appreciate your insight in this
Hello! Gosh, that's a really good question... I'm not sure I can give you a definite answer not knowing/seeing exactly what you did or want. A couple of things that came to mind though are with your resin having a longer cure time it gives the resin more time to move around and blend together. Maybe using a 1:1 resin will work better? Or, maybe wait for your resin to get to its thick tacky stage and pour into your mold and then make your design. Maybe that will hold its design? I find doing both these things, using the 1:1 resin and waiting for it to cure a little before putting into my molds, and then making my pattern helps to hold that pattern because the resin is close to the end of its working time so it won't move as much on you. Another thing you could do is "paint" your mica powders into your mold, tap out the excess, and then pour your resin to fill the mold. I hope this is a little helpful. Thank you so much for watching and reaching out. Please let me know if you have anymore questions.
Ok i will definitely try it out , i have a theory because of the long curing time the mica drops to the bottom causing it to be smooth , thank you for responding !
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | เปิดใจ "อาจารย์ เบียร์ ฅนตื่นธรรม" นักสนทนาธรรมสายดุดัน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqaBI_mnoDk/mqdefault.jpg)
So sad that you are trying to help people but are clearly concerned ppl are going to criticize you for ur methods, I really hope that didn't happen cause I appreciate this video so much and all ur tips 😘
Thank you so much! I really appreciate you!! There's always going to be those people that think their way is the only way. Art and creating should be fun and therapeutic, I think, and we all create differently what works for one might not work for another. Thanks so much for watching!
Did me two small molds for testing my first time after 12 hrs they look great and hard excited I do woodworking and laser engraving so hope to incorporate this into my projects thanks
You're welcome. I love resin and wood together. I hope it works out for you. Would love to see pictures. Thanks so much for watching!
Interesting definitely helpful. Mixed some earlier today we shall see how it turns out 😂
Thank you! I'm sure your project will be amazing. Thanks so much for watching!
I am new to the resin n mica world. I'm trying to start my own small business of Treasures. Do u hav any tips for resin mats, or heaters to use to cure the resin n mica in my molds? I hav a few tools, but I'm just not sure I'm doing it right! Plz excuse the account name my son took it over. I need to make a new one for myself.
I know there are a lot of products out there to help heat your resin to make it cure faster, but I don't use any of them. I let my resin cure on it's own. You have to be very careful with those products because you don't want your resin to flash cure. You don't want to run the risk of losing the integrity of your resin. Ideal conditions are to work in a well vented climate controlled area. I know not all of us can do that, me included. It takes longer for my resin to cure during the winter months. Patience with resin really does pay off in the end. Good luck with your new business! Thanks for watching!!
this helped me and my mom, thank you
You're welcome. Thanks so much for watching!
Thanks for this video
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
I can't figure out for the life of me what I am doing wrong. I mix the epoxy & hardener making sure to use equal amounts. Once I stir it until it is clear, I add mica powder. At this point, it looks fine. When I begin to pour my mixture on my vase, it still looks fine in the beginning, but then it begins to get real light (very translucent), and it ends up being only one very faint color. None of the other colors are visible. Please advise. Very disappointed and discouraged. I've tried this so many times.
For vases, I've found the best way to do those is first give them a base coat. It can be white or whatever color matches the colors you're using. I use Rustoleum 2X spray paint. For me, it doesn't matter what kind of colorant I use it never comes out right unless I base coat. It will be very light, like you said, dull and just ugly in my opinion. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I’m wanting opaque will your way do this. Thank You.
Yes, it will. Mica will have more of a pearly luster. If you use pigment paste it will have more of a heavy opaqueness to it. You would also use MUCH LESS pigment paste than mica powder. Thanks so much for watching!
@@JSCreationsArtSanity thank you.
nice!
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. How do you clean up your supplies ???
You're welcome! I clean my supplies one of two ways... if I can get them clean before the resin cures, then I first wipe and clean them the best I can with a shop towel (heavy duty paper towel) and then spray and clean them with 91% isopropyl alcohol. If the resin is cured, then I peel it off and wash with soap and water. Hope this helps!? And, thanks so much for watching!
Good job. Thank youuuu
Thank you! And thanks so much for watching!
I have already resined my painting and want to do second coat with mica- do I need to scratch original layer?
If I can get a second coat on before the 24 hour mark then I usually don't sand. If it's after that, I will lightly sand with a sanding block and clean with 91% isopropyl alcohol, so that the next coat has a "tooth" to hold onto. Hope that helps and thanks so much for watching!
Want resin mixing without air bubbles?I have a better resin mixer to recommend~~~~~th-cam.com/video/zxG-ntrdoJo/w-d-xo.html
What red is that? I've been looking for a pure red like CocaCola Red.
This red is O Negative from Glitter Chimp. glitterchimp.com/collections/mica-powders/products/o-negative-mica-powder?swaction=clearcache
Thanks for watching!
Nice. Where do you get your mica products? What size containers are those micas? Thanks
Thank you! I use a variety of different brands... Some of my favorites are Meyspring, they come in 50g jars from Amazon, Unicone Art (especially the crushed crystal), they come in 2oz jars from Amazon, the Pearl Ex brand from Hobby Lobby (1/2oz jars), all of the Glitter Chimp Mica Powders, they come in 1oz jars, and I just started using Art Tree Creations micas (20g) and pigment pastes (50g). I am really enjoying those especially the pigment pastes. Pigment pastes work a little differently, you need very little to color your resin. Thanks so much for watching!
@@JSCreationsArtSanity thank you kindly
Thanks
You're welcome. Thanks so much for watching!
Hi, should we be using a resin just for wood products? Ive noticed past few wood items I made that the resin pulls away in certain spots....
No, you don't need a special resin, at least, I don't use anything special. If it's like a painting or decor piece, I just use the General Use Resin from The Epoxy Resin Store. If you're doing something deeper then you'll need a thinner viscosity resin. I don't know what kind of wood you're using but you want to make sure you seal it before using resin. Make sure you sand and then you can seal it with spray paint, clear spray, or acrylic paint. I've used all these methods and never had problems. I also let them dry for at least 24 hours before using them. There's several reasons why resin pulls... the wood isn't sealed, you haven't used enough resin, there's something in that spot like oil from your hands, your resin isn't fully mixed,... If the resin is pulling from the edges try taping around the edge so the resin kind of domes and then after about an hour (depends on the resin, tempature, and humidity) remove the tape and let the resin fall over the edge. If you're using raw wood, like a block from the tree in your back yard, you have to let it dry out for several months before using it, and then I would seal it with several coat of a clear spray. I like Rustoleum the best. To fix the fish eye spots, I wait at least 24 hours and then lightly sand and wipe with 91% isopropyl alcohol before adding another layer of resin. I hope this helps a little. Thanks so much for watching!
Hi I’m not sure if you’re still responding but I was making a pour a few days ago and I used mica powders and I wanted a swirl pattern on the bottom of the mold , however when I demold it I realise the bottom is smooth with no patterns and the top has swirl patterns , I use a 2:1 resin with about 36 hours cure time , any idea how can I fix this ? Is it because the mica sank to the bottom? Would really appreciate your insight in this
Hello!
Gosh, that's a really good question... I'm not sure I can give you a definite answer not knowing/seeing exactly what you did or want. A couple of things that came to mind though are with your resin having a longer cure time it gives the resin more time to move around and blend together. Maybe using a 1:1 resin will work better? Or, maybe wait for your resin to get to its thick tacky stage and pour into your mold and then make your design. Maybe that will hold its design? I find doing both these things, using the 1:1 resin and waiting for it to cure a little before putting into my molds, and then making my pattern helps to hold that pattern because the resin is close to the end of its working time so it won't move as much on you. Another thing you could do is "paint" your mica powders into your mold, tap out the excess, and then pour your resin to fill the mold.
I hope this is a little helpful. Thank you so much for watching and reaching out. Please let me know if you have anymore questions.
Ok i will definitely try it out , i have a theory because of the long curing time the mica drops to the bottom causing it to be smooth , thank you for responding !
@@SxLeonidasXS That could be. Resin has a mind of its own sometimes and can be hard to work with. Lol! You're welcome.