A really informative video that helped a lot with the identical problem I had with my soldering iron. As someone else pointed out, the thermal fuse originally fitted is rated at 152C (marked SEFUSE SF150R0 152C CCC15A C21Y2). I bought a 142C fuse, and that seems to be fine.
About to be fixing mine very soon, I have 2 one for home and one at the shop. A few weeks ago we were doing a Wiring job but had no bays open so i decided to do it outside, i accidently left my iron on and in the 100 Degree sun for a good 5-10 minutes. Like you said, they take some abuse before giving out. I've rarely seen anyone with issues other than a heating elm or a Therm Fuse. I'd recommend to anyone that was on the fence about buying
NOTE: After a lot of research on the M12 solder iron, buyer beware: Anything over 3ah CP batteries and ~10 min of run time will start to deteriorate and melt the housing cap of the solder wand. There are literally hundreds of 1 star reviews claiming this issue, rendering this device useless after only a few months of use. That said, I am still buying one, but limiting my usage to ~10 min on before cooldown and only using compact batteries. One guy I found did this consistently and was able to put hundreds of hours of use on this device over the course of several years. God bless!
I could see this being the case. I ONLY use it when I don’t have wall power available, or if I just need to solder one thing because it heats up so much faster than my 120v solder station. If I’ll be soldering for an hour or something I always go for the plug in iron.
What on earth does the capacity of the battery have to do with the failure mode?! I've used an XC 6.0 to power mine for years - it was purchased a few months after first being announced by Milwaukee.
Fantastic Video. I had a hard time fitting everything back together because the fuse leads combined with the heat shrink were too bulky. I ended up cutting the fuse leads short and using only 1 alligator clip (with wire) for heat sinking and that worked well for me.
Thank you for this! You saved me $200 on a new skin. I also just levered the crimps open with a screw driver and pliers, then folded them back down. I used a cigarette lighter to melt the heat shrink on the line side of the fuse and kept the original heat shielding for that OEM look. I love your dry humor in your videos 😂
Fantastic Fix!! I found it wasn't too hard to pry the 2 crimps open (that clamp the thermal fuse) with 2 pairs of pointy nose pliers, and then again to crimp them back over.
I need to replace a lot of these fuses in smoking machines and I use shrink tubing with tin rings incorporated. It takes a bit of space but this way you fix the cables without overheating the fuse.
There was NO need to removed all of the torque screws. Just need to undo ONE torques screw in the black head removed neat fuse and replace.......simples...
I've had 2 irons shit the thermal fuse, and one melt the plastic nut on the hot end. They replaced it each time and even upgraded me to the newer one with the bolted on hot end. But of course, it shat the thermal fuse again, at work when I was in the middle of nowhere. Each time its 3 weeks wait for warranty. So I just bypassed the fuse completely. Profit.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 Thanks so much for replying. I have been whistling that for years and never knew where or when I'd heard it before. Glad to have that mind drawer closed. Your vids are great too btw. Just subbed.
I just made a direct contact because the worintee was not covering it and it heated even faster no lights tho because the board is dead all I did was removed the bridge rectifier and made it straight on the power side it is hot in one second
So quick question, i decided to test my iron old school to make sure the heating element was ok before ordering the fuse. So what i did was run a wire straight in place of the fuse for like 3-5 seconds and noticed the heating element glow orange. So i’m assuming because i’ve never seen that glow orange before it’s because i had it direct and nothing was cutting off the circuit because the temp got too high w|o regulation? I want to make sure that it glowing orange the way it did was normal even with it being connected directly. I ask because i feel as if i replace the fuse and that heating element gets to glowing orange again then i’m just going to blow another fuse unless it’s the thermal fuse that regulates the heating element from getting to the point of glowing.
The heating element is likely overheating because you’re running it without the metal sleeve around it taking some of the heat load. There’s also a potentiometer in the corner of the board that controls output but I doubt that’s your problem.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 can you verify with yours without the tip and just the heating element exposed if your heating element glows orange at the top part after acouple of seconds. I want to be sure before i toss mine and buy a new one; thanks in advance.
I've got 2 of these.. Why? Because one is always at Milwaukee getting warrantied. I've got one there right now actually for the 8th time. Next time, I'm gonna try this!
I certainly wouldn’t have gone through all this trouble to fix it if I didn’t know I was going to miss it a ton… I really had to torture it to make it malfunction like this. I wouldn’t hesitate.
The fuse in my soldering iron was actually rated for 152C. PART SF150R0. Have you had to replace the fuses in amazon link more often being that they are a bit lower? Thanks.
What if mine just blinking green but after 20 seconds its able to solder but the light stays blinking did i do something wrong i replaced the element and the fuse
It’s not reaching temperature. Or I should say, the control board is not recognizing that it’s reached temperature. I would say your options are to check for a broken sensor wire, or live with it blinking.
Sounds like a battery issue. I would use some alligator leads and a multimeter to measure the current draw and if it’s in spec for the soldering iron then you know it’s a weak battery. These things draw a lot of juice.
@The Doubtful Technician I couldn't find any. I can mess with it again. It acts like it's doing its job, flashes green and then goes solid green but not hot and no voltage on the thermal fuse anymore
@The Doubtful Technician now now. When I first took it apart it had power going to the fuse but not out. Did the swap with a 142c but I crimped the ends instead of solder. I tested real fast and it came to life, so I shut off and assembled. Together it wouldn't heat up tho it says it is. Goes solid green. And shutting off it stays red to alert hot. Now no power goes to the fuse.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
A really informative video that helped a lot with the identical problem I had with my soldering iron. As someone else pointed out, the thermal fuse originally fitted is rated at 152C (marked SEFUSE SF150R0 152C CCC15A C21Y2). I bought a 142C fuse, and that seems to be fine.
About to be fixing mine very soon, I have 2 one for home and one at the shop. A few weeks ago we were doing a Wiring job but had no bays open so i decided to do it outside, i accidently left my iron on and in the 100 Degree sun for a good 5-10 minutes. Like you said, they take some abuse before giving out. I've rarely seen anyone with issues other than a heating elm or a Therm Fuse. I'd recommend to anyone that was on the fence about buying
NOTE: After a lot of research on the M12 solder iron, buyer beware: Anything over 3ah CP batteries and ~10 min of run time will start to deteriorate and melt the housing cap of the solder wand. There are literally hundreds of 1 star reviews claiming this issue, rendering this device useless after only a few months of use. That said, I am still buying one, but limiting my usage to ~10 min on before cooldown and only using compact batteries. One guy I found did this consistently and was able to put hundreds of hours of use on this device over the course of several years. God bless!
I could see this being the case. I ONLY use it when I don’t have wall power available, or if I just need to solder one thing because it heats up so much faster than my 120v solder station. If I’ll be soldering for an hour or something I always go for the plug in iron.
What on earth does the capacity of the battery have to do with the failure mode?! I've used an XC 6.0 to power mine for years - it was purchased a few months after first being announced by Milwaukee.
Fantastic Video. I had a hard time fitting everything back together because the fuse leads combined with the heat shrink were too bulky. I ended up cutting the fuse leads short and using only 1 alligator clip (with wire) for heat sinking and that worked well for me.
Thank you for this! You saved me $200 on a new skin. I also just levered the crimps open with a screw driver and pliers, then folded them back down. I used a cigarette lighter to melt the heat shrink on the line side of the fuse and kept the original heat shielding for that OEM look. I love your dry humor in your videos 😂
Fantastic Fix!! I found it wasn't too hard to pry the 2 crimps open (that clamp the thermal fuse) with 2 pairs of pointy nose pliers, and then again to crimp them back over.
I need to replace a lot of these fuses in smoking machines and I use shrink tubing with tin rings incorporated. It takes a bit of space but this way you fix the cables without overheating the fuse.
Thank you! I changed the fuse and it’s work again.🎉
Fixed 2 of these now! Great info 🎉
There was NO need to removed all of the torque screws. Just need to undo ONE torques screw in the black head removed neat fuse and replace.......simples...
Sounds like more of a pain in the ass than just opening things up completely.
I've had 2 irons shit the thermal fuse, and one melt the plastic nut on the hot end. They replaced it each time and even upgraded me to the newer one with the bolted on hot end. But of course, it shat the thermal fuse again, at work when I was in the middle of nowhere. Each time its 3 weeks wait for warranty.
So I just bypassed the fuse completely. Profit.
Does your heating element glow orange because you by passed the thermal fuse?
@@Legendz167 No, why would it?
Thank you!
I think they increased the degree that these pop at, I just opened mine up and found a 152 C 15 A thermal fuse Part Number SF150RO
Thank you very very very very very much !!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks. Very helpful.
Awesome job. Made it look easy.
Dude, strange question.... but what was that song you were whistling? 4:57
That’s the Andy Griffith show theme song
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 Thanks so much for replying. I have been whistling that for years and never knew where or when I'd heard it before. Glad to have that mind drawer closed. Your vids are great too btw. Just subbed.
Wow that must’ve driven you nuts lol. Glad I could help
I just made a direct contact because the worintee was not covering it and it heated even faster no lights tho because the board is dead all I did was removed the bridge rectifier and made it straight on the power side it is hot in one second
Thanks!
5:10 And also thanks for that. I would never have noticed
So quick question, i decided to test my iron old school to make sure the heating element was ok before ordering the fuse. So what i did was run a wire straight in place of the fuse for like 3-5 seconds and noticed the heating element glow orange. So i’m assuming because i’ve never seen that glow orange before it’s because i had it direct and nothing was cutting off the circuit because the temp got too high w|o regulation? I want to make sure that it glowing orange the way it did was normal even with it being connected directly.
I ask because i feel as if i replace the fuse and that heating element gets to glowing orange again then i’m just going to blow another fuse unless it’s the thermal fuse that regulates the heating element from getting to the point of glowing.
The heating element is likely overheating because you’re running it without the metal sleeve around it taking some of the heat load. There’s also a potentiometer in the corner of the board that controls output but I doubt that’s your problem.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 can you verify with yours without the tip and just the heating element exposed if your heating element glows orange at the top part after acouple of seconds.
I want to be sure before i toss mine and buy a new one; thanks in advance.
I've got 2 of these.. Why? Because one is always at Milwaukee getting warrantied. I've got one there right now actually for the 8th time. Next time, I'm gonna try this!
Is this thing any good if you had not used that 142 fuse?
Good shit, how do you like it? I hear a lot of mixed reviews on this.
I certainly wouldn’t have gone through all this trouble to fix it if I didn’t know I was going to miss it a ton… I really had to torture it to make it malfunction like this. I wouldn’t hesitate.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 welp guess Milwaukee's getting more $ from me.
You had voltage in the fuse then why did you replace it?
Because I didn’t have voltage OUT of the fuse…
Legend, thanks
What can I do if the control board is not sending power? My led stays green but doesn’t heat up
mine doesnt sent power to the fuse, have you solved it?
The fuse in my soldering iron was actually rated for 152C. PART SF150R0. Have you had to replace the fuses in amazon link more often being that they are a bit lower? Thanks.
Holding up great since I made this video!
My ceramic rod broke when the iron was dropped. Do I just need the replacement heating element?
@Murray Wight thank you!
@murraywight5721 the tips work but the element is much higher resistance and won't get very hot in the milwaukee m12.
Why is my resistance tip a little black? , I've only used it a couple of times
Idk, I always hit my tips with the wire wheel occasionally as they all get that way from time to time.
What if mine just blinking green but after 20 seconds its able to solder but the light stays blinking did i do something wrong i replaced the element and the fuse
It’s not reaching temperature. Or I should say, the control board is not recognizing that it’s reached temperature. I would say your options are to check for a broken sensor wire, or live with it blinking.
Hey my m12 soldering full charge doesn't last longer than 7-10mins 3.0 amp battery how do I fix
Sounds like a battery issue. I would use some alligator leads and a multimeter to measure the current draw and if it’s in spec for the soldering iron then you know it’s a weak battery. These things draw a lot of juice.
Iron starts to heat up flashing green and then goes straight red. Suggestions?
It’s trying to heat up but shutting off before it can. Can you try a different battery?
That did not work, fully charged 4.0
Hi what’s the part number for the fuse
Thanks
I put the Amazon link in the description!
Just did this exact thing. Worked for test but when I put it back together it doesn't work. And no voltage going to. So idk what happened
Is there voltage going into the board? Without seeing it, I would check for a broken or pinched wire.
@The Doubtful Technician I couldn't find any. I can mess with it again. It acts like it's doing its job, flashes green and then goes solid green but not hot and no voltage on the thermal fuse anymore
Just to clarify, there’s no voltage going into OR out of the thermal fuse?
@The Doubtful Technician now now. When I first took it apart it had power going to the fuse but not out. Did the swap with a 142c but I crimped the ends instead of solder. I tested real fast and it came to life, so I shut off and assembled. Together it wouldn't heat up tho it says it is. Goes solid green. And shutting off it stays red to alert hot. Now no power goes to the fuse.
@@thedoubtfultechnician8067 just tested some more. With battery on and switch on. H- Has Ground. H+ Nothing. S+ has 3.4v, S- has 3.4v. Led has 12v
°c 300+/-? (no 400°c).
To fix your soldering iron, use a soldering iron D:
My ceramic rod broke when the iron was dropped. Do I just need the replacement heating element?