ive front 2.8i Billy's on my capri heavy duty springs it's a harsh ride very crashy also has 2.8i anti roll bar I do have the wide brackets to to fit to it might do adjustment to it soon does it help with lighter steering what your doing.
@@502days Yes a bit of negative camber will make it handle nice. I run 2 degrees which is quite excessive and does wear the tyres on the inside. Feels nice on drift tho and the car turns in nice and sharply. 👍
By the looks of it, there’s about an inch difference between the anti-roll bars, also an inch between the holes in the bracket. Explains your findings. So yes (as you said), you’d need to keep the original brackets with the shorter bar 👍 … don’t mix it up or it’ll literally handle like a shopping trolley 😂🤣
Marcus...Get yourself a workmate or something to hold stuff while cutting and grinding....Grimaced when you were cutting the mounts up holding them in 1 hand and flashing the grinder round in the other. Amazed you haven't lost a finger yet.
Everyone that I have seen build a drift Escort has moved the wheels forward as much as possible to improve the self steering on transitions. I reckon that if you go too far it may make the steering get stuck at full lock, but I wont be able to tell until I test the car. I can easily dial back the castor with shims if needed anyway. 👍
After lowering the anti roll bar to improve brake dive and also the suspension to improve handling in a capri the castor angle had decreased to much the car became very unstable at speed. The accepted and simple solution is to cut and file back the end of the roll bar behind the thread where the tca mounts. Washers can be fitted either side to move the strut back and forth to fine tune the angle. As the capri and escort suspension are the same, this should work for you.
Yes Iv head of people machining the anti roll bar and using shims as you describe. I have basically gone full extreme with the castor and I'll be able to dial it back with shims the same way if needed. 👍
Interesting, iv heard of dodgy twincam bars not being made correctly/sold wrong. Mine has twin cam bar and adjustable top mounts and it sits basically where your new welded bar sits.
I have toe plates and a camber gauge mate. We'll see how much actual castor I have when the car gets aligned. I'll be able to use shims to make sure both sides have the same castor. I can also use shims to dial back the castor if needed, but I wont be able to tell this until I actually test the ar at a drift day. 👍
Be careful with how much castor you go with because after a certain point you won't be able to steer when on full steering lock and you have to fight the car to get the steering back. The weight of the car makes it sit on the end of the steering rack and you'll be lifting the entire car by the steering. It also affects braking, you could make it better or FAR FAR worse.
@marcushayesford Just full lock is a problem, if it "sucks" the steering into the full lock position and you had no input then expect to crash because you're lifting the car to get the steering back and it can require a quite a bit of force on the steering wheel to get it to let go of full lock. The problem is the tyre rolling over as you turn, as the wheel leans over. If that roll goes to far... Be safe bud!
Caster and camber are mesured in degrees and minutes, from factory were not adjustable, with aftermarket top strut mounts these angles become adjustable. Please get front end alignment done by a professional alignment technician with experience in setting up old escorts on a 4 wheel alignment machine. Eyeballing wheel in fender is not acceptable way to do it.
@@susanhenderson2322 The car will need to be aligned before putting it on the road, but I needed to pull the front wheels forward now so that I can decide where about the front arches will be fitted, and so that I know where to trim the front wings. 👍
Why not run a tension strut setup, I do realise you are on a budget, but you should have measured before you welded them up, this to me looks way too far forwards, running half that and then dial more in with top adjustment would have been way more sensible
A tension rod or compression strut setup would be the ultimate, but right now I just need to focus on getting the car finished. The only reason I have even bothered adding castor now is because I need to know where abouts the front arch is going to be, and I need to know how much metal to cut off the front wings etc, before I can finish getting the car ready for paint. 👍
Compression strut or tension tie - depending on the installation angles, the former normally gains caster, and camber in turn in, whereas the other is the opposite.
@@marcushayesford Do the caster/geometry first, so it's where you need it, and NOT the body work first, because if the former needs to be changed it's going to screw up the wheel-arch relationship all over again.
Nice words mate. Thank you for the mention. I do watch many of your videos buddy. We must meet and greet in 2025 buddy.
Defo up for a meet up mate. Where abouts in the world are you???
Top Welding, great job. You deserve a portable workbench and some clamps (get the pump type ones). Look forward to the next one.
Any time not a problem great work. 👍🙌🤙👋🏻💪😇👏🤩
Thanks again mate! 👍
Thank you for uploading this content Marcus, it's a positive video and helpful to me 😊
You’re welcome mate. Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching! 👍
ive front 2.8i Billy's on my capri heavy duty springs it's a harsh ride very crashy also has 2.8i anti roll bar I do have the wide brackets to to fit to it might do adjustment to it soon does it help with lighter steering what your doing.
@ To be honest I’m expecting the extra castor will make the steering MORE heavy. 👍
Ok so probably best I just to negi camber as also have adjustable bottom arms to.
@@502days Yes a bit of negative camber will make it handle nice. I run 2 degrees which is quite excessive and does wear the tyres on the inside. Feels nice on drift tho and the car turns in nice and sharply. 👍
Don’t worry about adjusting the wheel position just angle grind a bit of wheel arch so it’s central 😎👍
Another great vid. (y)
Good educational vid Marcus simple explanation made it easy to understand caster 👍
Thanks mate! 👍
Learned so much from this video today
@@bradleygibson5093 I’m happy to share my very limited knowledge mate. 👍
By the looks of it, there’s about an inch difference between the anti-roll bars, also an inch between the holes in the bracket. Explains your findings. So yes (as you said), you’d need to keep the original brackets with the shorter bar 👍
… don’t mix it up or it’ll literally handle like a shopping trolley 😂🤣
Marcus...Get yourself a workmate or something to hold stuff while cutting and grinding....Grimaced when you were cutting the mounts up holding them in 1 hand and flashing the grinder round in the other. Amazed you haven't lost a finger yet.
Great info - this is exactly what i want to achieve on my bmw e21 but nobody does anything for it - this has given me some ideas .
Glad the video helped you mate! 👍
I think you'd be better looking around European markets for old old BMW parts. Poland or Germany. Failing that find someone who can make it.
Coming along Marcus
Slowly but surely mate! 👍
Dont be getting in trouble with the mother inlaw lol
She forgave me for making us late for dinner, so I must be doing something right! 😃
Good mod, Marcus. And, if it doesn't work the way you like, it's not a bigdeal to change it back.
Yes and I can actually use shims to dial it back if needed. 👍
Moving the wheel forward will reduce the steering self correcting when going around corners.
Everyone that I have seen build a drift Escort has moved the wheels forward as much as possible to improve the self steering on transitions. I reckon that if you go too far it may make the steering get stuck at full lock, but I wont be able to tell until I test the car. I can easily dial back the castor with shims if needed anyway. 👍
No, it's the other way round, it will self centre more if wheel is moved forward.
After lowering the anti roll bar to improve brake dive and also the suspension to improve handling in a capri the castor angle had decreased to much the car became very unstable at speed. The accepted and simple solution is to cut and file back the end of the roll bar behind the thread where the tca mounts. Washers can be fitted either side to move the strut back and forth to fine tune the angle. As the capri and escort suspension are the same, this should work for you.
Yes Iv head of people machining the anti roll bar and using shims as you describe. I have basically gone full extreme with the castor and I'll be able to dial it back with shims the same way if needed. 👍
Forget the welding gas cylinders. Get a co2 fire extinguisher, turn it upside down and fit a regulator in place of the horn outlet 👍
Great idea mate. Jonathon that helped me rebuild the crossflow cylinder head also uses fire extinguishers. 👍
Interesting, iv heard of dodgy twincam bars not being made correctly/sold wrong.
Mine has twin cam bar and adjustable top mounts and it sits basically where your new welded bar sits.
Thats interesting mate. Would defo explain why Maude AND Esther's front wheels wern't in the right place! 🤔
Hi Marcus, do you know what color code the car was before? Talking about the engine bay color.
The original colour of the car was 'Cordoba Beige' mate. The engine bay isn't the original paint, we re-painted it Cordoba beige. 👍
@@marcushayesford Thanks a lot!
ah ye😎😎
Can’t you borrow a caster/camber gauge and pair of turnstiles to check what you have ?
I have toe plates and a camber gauge mate. We'll see how much actual castor I have when the car gets aligned. I'll be able to use shims to make sure both sides have the same castor. I can also use shims to dial back the castor if needed, but I wont be able to tell this until I actually test the ar at a drift day. 👍
@ that’s good , when ever I do mine it’s amazing the difference you get from side to side
Be careful with how much castor you go with because after a certain point you won't be able to steer when on full steering lock and you have to fight the car to get the steering back. The weight of the car makes it sit on the end of the steering rack and you'll be lifting the entire car by the steering. It also affects braking, you could make it better or FAR FAR worse.
I’ll defo have to just see how it feels on drift. I’ll be able to dial it back with shims between the ant roll bar and the track control arms too. 👍
@marcushayesford Just full lock is a problem, if it "sucks" the steering into the full lock position and you had no input then expect to crash because you're lifting the car to get the steering back and it can require a quite a bit of force on the steering wheel to get it to let go of full lock. The problem is the tyre rolling over as you turn, as the wheel leans over. If that roll goes to far... Be safe bud!
@ I see what you mean. Would just mean a spin out on a corner at a drift day (which happens a lot when you are as in-talented as me anyway! 😀)
@@marcushayesford spot on m8, you know what I mean.. Minor adjustments and test. Only change one thing at a time.
She needs an anti dive kit.
To match ur t cam roll bar brackets.i can send pic of one I fitted 30 year ago to mine.👍
Iv heard that those were actually designed for rally cars where the suspension had been raised by 2 inches??? 🤔
You’ll want power steering with that much castor or more gym n weetabix 😂😂💪
Possibly mate! 💪💪💪
Don't be so soft
@@gubsportjoegubb4854 I workout everyday (twice most days), so I reckon I'll be fine! 💪💪💪
I have seen before. Lowering a car car affect the camber
Yes lowering a car can mess up geometry a lot. An Escort drives so much better if it is only slightly lowered BUT then they just dont look as good. 👍
Caster and camber are mesured in degrees and minutes, from factory were not adjustable, with aftermarket top strut mounts these angles become adjustable. Please get front end alignment done by a professional alignment technician with experience in setting up old escorts on a 4 wheel alignment machine. Eyeballing wheel in fender is not acceptable way to do it.
@@susanhenderson2322 The car will need to be aligned before putting it on the road, but I needed to pull the front wheels forward now so that I can decide where about the front arches will be fitted, and so that I know where to trim the front wings. 👍
😇👍🤙🤩💪👏🙌👋🏻
Why not run a tension strut setup, I do realise you are on a budget, but you should have measured before you welded them up, this to me looks way too far forwards, running half that and then dial more in with top adjustment would have been way more sensible
A tension rod or compression strut setup would be the ultimate, but right now I just need to focus on getting the car finished. The only reason I have even bothered adding castor now is because I need to know where abouts the front arch is going to be, and I need to know how much metal to cut off the front wings etc, before I can finish getting the car ready for paint. 👍
Compression strut or tension tie - depending on the installation angles, the former normally gains caster, and camber in turn in, whereas the other is the opposite.
@@marcushayesford
Do the caster/geometry first, so it's where you need it, and NOT the body work first, because if the former needs to be changed it's going to screw up the wheel-arch relationship all over again.