knife edge rentention tips 5 destressing the old edge
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2024
- is you knife edge not holding an edge like it did fresh out of the box? seems like you need to sharpen it more often to do the same amount of work? these are classic examples of an edge that needs destressed, or reset. the idea is that you need to get rid of the old edge and a little bit of stressed steel behind the old edge to get to fresh steel for the new edge. caltoncutlery.com
Man, Joe Carlton seems to have a fantastic life. Bees, guns, knives.. what's not to love here?
thank you for the kind words :}
We LOVE THIS SERIES!
thanks!!
Great tip Joe. Thank you!
I just tried the damaged steel removal technique on a 20CV blade I’ve been having trouble with. Brought it to shaving with just a few strokes. I have also seen this as a straight razor technique at right before finishing. I have not done it though.
I just received a great straight razor from you! It arrived beautiful and shaved very well. The blade is amazing and the scales are great looking.
good to hear that you got the razor ok and like it! sure you can use that method on straight razors, it also is an easy way on a razor to get rid of a frown.
I often use ceramic rods, Lansky Spyder in my EDC (one of them dog-bone-shaped) and Lansky TurnBox. It's 800-1000 grit and removes a bit of steel, I find it enough to freshen the edge. And then about once in 2-3 months I go to diamond stone or sharpening system. I also microbevel the edge on ceramic, for me it is more forgiving than doing it on a diamond.
Great info 💯
Glad you think so!
Dressing the old edge is necessary when the edge is chipped. It can be seen under magnification. If the edge is not dressed it might chip easier, but bit it is not necessary to dress the edge all the time. In my opinion it is only necessary if the material is fatigued already.
Love it, I concur on the info!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Ever thought about selling a couple 940 reblades? I love that 940 you carry.
im not selling the whole knife, but I am doing a dozen or so reblades in either 1095 or 440c to see if i enjoy doing them enough to make it a permanent thing. if you are interested in that, you can send me a message through the contact page on my website at caltoncutlery.com
Yes that is what I meant. Sounds good.
Bless his soul. I learned from Cliff too.
cliff was a great teacher in his own way.
Iv had to do this because of what I called belt burn. The factory belt edge would fail really fast.
that sucks when the factory is in such a hurry to make money that they burn your edge before you even get to use it.
Thanks Joe for the info !
You bet!
Excellent video. Other new thing I learn, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
@joecalton1449 Do you into a screenshot community?
I believe at the base of every burr there is damaged steel structures. Would we be able to minimize the steel damage by creating am apex at 50º per-side to avoid creating a bur & then thinning the blade behind the cutting edge with a 15º angle until we are left with a micro bevel maybe 0.0002" wide? Has anyone tried this ?
you would still create a burr even at 50 degrees per side. how would you measure the .0002" per side microbevel? how long would that take and would it be a good use of time vs 1-2 minutes to sharpen with a normal burr based or light reflecting method? i would be interested in seeing you try it and make a video with your results and share it.
@@joecalton1449 I have a 60x optical microscope with a built in scale which
makes it easy understand the width of a micro-bevel.
- A cutting edge radius of .00005" to .0001" seems to be small enough
to cut cut the Sweet-potatoes, Onions, Tomatoes & Green leaves I eat,
so that's my go-to standard sharp.
- I generally avoid creating a burr to preserve the thinnest portion
of the blade; not that I can't thin the blade, it's just time consuming.
- Creating burrs at 50º per-side can be avoided if we back off on the
abrasive pressure per-square inch.
- There are multiple options to minimize pressure at the cutting edge for
this purpose, my preference is interrupted surface, course grit, diamond
plates.
- The reality, as you stated in terms of time savings there is little to be
gained, at some point curiosity will get the best of me & I will run the tests.
- I have chosen to add value to knives & the knife making community by
crafting handles designed to reduce the relative grip strength by 80%
to improve knife safety & address the needs of those with hand injuries.
- Almost 3 years into that project which i need to finish before I start other
projects.
- I appreciate all the research, testing, skills, time you share; saving me &
many others time.
- If you would like to discuss any of these topics further drop me a note.
- After 50+ years in metal working, I have a lot of ideas & still much to learn.
Nice video. How often or much do you have to use this technique? (in general)
I disagree on the sharpening steel not removing metal, maybe not a lot (depending on the user like everything else) but they do remove metal. Wipe a well used steel with a clean paper towel and see. Also, some of the microscope knife nerds say the same. Steady,
if you are just wearing the edge away, like a butcher who is staying off bone and cutting soft stuff, then sure a steel will keep and edge and you wont need to remove much material at all. anytime you wreck an edge, or really wear it down, then you would need to remove the old edge, plus a little bit of steel under it that was supporting that old edge as it is likely damaged also. if you sharpen to a burr, then that will be enough, if you arent bringing up a new burr, then the destressing method works very well also.
@@joecalton1449 Thanks Joe. Makes good sense to me. Keep up the videos. Dozier