Big tip for anyone doing this alone: get a bungee cord and hook it to the strut spring. Thread the CV axle through the bungee loop and boom, you have an extra hand for you to easily move the axle into the transmission without fighting the weight. Made it super easy for me! also wanted to say thank you. Your Altima videos have saved my dad a lot of money because I can fix it for him. Just finished replacing the CV axle in an hour and a half.
@@billybgonzalez Aside from the bungee trick, it was very straightforward and doable! There is no c-clip on the passenger side so it’s easy to pull out assuming you can get the retaining bolts out. If it’s seized and you’re unable to, you may have to take the whole piece out (which I think I had to do, but in the end it wasn’t difficult). Those are the two main things to look out for. Otherwise, just make sure the new one clicks in and seats completely fully, and make sure to have some cvt fluid ready (Nissan ns2) in case it comes out, but mine didn’t leak any. I had it jacked up only on the passenger side and so it was leaning back, so no fluid came out. It’s very doable! Good luck!
I am replacing the Cv axle, and I took over 4 hours trying to get the center bracket to release. I was using a slide hammer and every other trick I found online. Finally I gave up and removed the 4 bolts holding the bracket on. @ 4:53 you can see two of the 4 bolts and the other two are on the same plane, one top and one bottom, 16 mm, and much easier to remove than fighting the slide hammer. When I got the cv out, with the bracket still on the bearing, I simply hit the bracket and it fell off in about 30 seconds. Since I am also replacing the power steering pump, I am going to finish that then reinstall the cv axle. Got too cold and dark to finish last night, so I will have to finish today. Also thinking of doing the transmission fluid and filter also, 212k miles on 2010 Altima. Keep up the great work and thank you.
Dude, whoever owns that car obviously live down south, because my shits (rotors) are rusty as hell already. So much for "rust resistant". Very thorough video. Love it! You're really motivating me into working on my car more. Been using my car for work for over a year, so it wearing down like crazy.
Haha! Thank you so much for your comment. I'm glad to be motivating you to work on your car, you can save alot of coin doing the work yourself, as long as you have the right tools and info! This car has racked up almost 200k miles so alot of things to fix and maintain at this point in the cars life, but I do enjoy the work (most of the time lol)
After struggling with the c clip on the driver's side I was excited to breeze through this side only to find the carrier bearing was absolutely seized in the bracket. If this happens to others in the rust belt it's not too bad to remove the bracket with 4 16mm...remove the CV bracket and all and hammer it off outside the car. Nice video still again thanks!
Thanks I have the EXACT problem same CV axle same Altima, was lucky it came out real smooth. I lost all of the transmission fluid I removed it and measured 75 oz so I would say all of it the seal looks good and am ready to install when part arrives Friday. The torque specs I really appreciate I like to get it right the first time. Enjoy your videos
You're welcome! Glad you found our video useful. Wow, you lost quite a bit of fluid, you might as well drain the rest and refill with new fluid while you're waiting for the part lol. Thanks for watching 👍
Nice video and thank u for your help. Also if the axle doesn’t simply just pull out of the transmission after removing those 13mm bolts then u will have to remove the bracket the axle bearing sits on which is I believe 3-4 14mm bolts and remove everything all together. Then u can separate the axle from that bracket once out of the vehicle by hammering it a little
Yeah, I think it's 4 - 14 mm bolts that hold that bracket in place, luckily ours just came out with no issues. Also, while you have the axle out, go ahead and replace the rubber seal that keeps the transmission fluid from leaking out where the axle shaft goes in! Perfect time to do that. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@TrickShiftGarage nope. They are 16mm bolts (5/8 SAE). It's also extremely hard to remove the bearing from it. I've been hammering for over an hour and it is still stuck.
Thanks for the correct info, Adrian! I heard that it was a pain to get off. Spray some liquid wrench in there and let it soak for awhile and keep hammering away, it will come off eventually. Good luck and thanks for watching! 👍
It's refreshing to see an actual professional doing a video instead of these backyard wrench turners using an impact on a wheel bearing. I think any actual professional would realize how bad of an idea and unprofessional and irresponsible it is to use an impact on a bearing. Great job buddy keep up the good work there are others like you out here that appreciate it.
Overall, it should be similar. Some bolts may be different sizes, but the process should be similar. If you change it out, be sure to come back and let us know of any similarities or differences! It could help a lot of people with the same question!
It's a 2007 so it doesn't have ABS (it was still optional for that year which is crazy to me lol). I think 2008 and onward have ABS standard so you should have the ABS ring on your 2009. Glad the video was helpful, thanks for watching! 👍
Did you reuse the little bushing thing at the end of the cv axle where it goes into the transmission? I ordered new cv axles but they didn’t come with new ones so I didn’t know if they needed to be replaced or not?
There was one provided with the new CV axle, so I replaced it. Personally, I would replace it with a new one while the axle is still out. Check with your local auto parts store to see if they may have one in stock. If they don't, then a Nissan dealer should be able to get you one. Good luck!
I've been re-greasing my CV axles with ripped boots in my Maxima for over 10 years, every oil change. I use a acid brush, goop it up, stab the grease in. Im finally getting around to replacing the left driven axle because it started making crunching noises after a long 2000 mile trip in severe winter conditions. A ripped boot is just a ripped boot. You can go 100,000 miles or more if the joints are good. It's not a big deal unless it's on a 4WD and you drive off-road or on dirt & gravel roads. If the boot is split open in the middle away from the moving joint parts, just pack the grease inside away from the split and it will generally stay there. What flings out initially is excess grease from the factory. Obviously, not everyone should do as I do. But if you work on your on stuff, there's no need to fix what isn't broken. Grease inside the wheel well hurts nothing but prevents corrosion.
Thanks for the comment Brent! I drove with the bust CV boot for longer than I would like to admit. Eventually it started to make an ever growing louder sound that I didn't want to take the chance anymore, haha! Thanks for watching 👍
what kind of grease do u put in cv boot? there are so many types but none say for cv? is there a brand or model u recommend? also how do u know how much to put in?
Thank you for that video. Now that I have replaced the CV axle, I have to top up the transmission fluid. Do you know how to do that if the top-up-screw is not possible to be removed anymore? I heard I could do it via the speedometer access point? Thanks!
You're welcome Magnet! The top up screw gets STUCK sometimes if it hasn't been pulled out in a while. What you can do is grab some pliers and gently rotate it back and forth. It should come out eventually. I haven't heard of using the speed sensor location before as an alternate location to fill from but I'll look into it and let you know if I find anything. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@TrickShiftGarage Thanks for the reply, a self built tool and a heat gun finally did the job I ended up having to pour 0.6l more in there than originally was in there, curious to find out what happened there
2011 Altima R cv axle boot completely gone it's just a few days before I can get one but car started pulling hard like bad caliper I've never had cv axle make it pull it's not even popping yet but I got slop when I jack it up and check side to side wheel bearing seems fine tho no slop checking slop top n bottom of wheel and tire any advice appreciated
Possibly! If the CV axle isn't installed correctly and pushed all the way into the transmission, it could leak. The more likely scenario is the seal where the axle end goes into the transmission has gone bad and is leaking out. That's where I would start. Thanks for watching Thunder Bear!
My boot just got damaged last week or so and there is a lot of grease splattered around. Do I need to fix this immediately or can I wait for a little while before I either attempt to do this myself or take it in? Also is the Transmission Shift Shaft Seal the correct seal you mentioned to also replace?
Honestly, I'd try to get it fixed as soon as humanely possible. A CV axle could fall apart while driving (depending on how bad the rupture is) and you could lose control of your car...pretty bad stuff. Make sure to drive carefully and try to avoid high speeds as this will increase the chance of the CV axle self-destructing unexpectedly. Good luck and be safe! If you have any questions feel free to let us know! Thanks for watching! 👍
Hello! I did this to my Nissan Altima and noticed that now my vehicle jumps when putting it into drive. Another issue that has risen is that my vehicle appears to delay sometimes with it not wanting to accelerate at all when I push down on the throttle only for it to finally jump forward after a few seconds. Any thoughts on what might have happened? I checked for leaking fluid and nothing else has been leaking.
Hello Gabe! I suspect your fluid level might be low. It could also be time to change the fluid if it's been awhile. These transmissions are very finicky when it comes to their fluid. Hope this helps, good luck!
Trying to get this done on my wife's car and I cannot get the original axle out. I've even been trying a slide hammer. I also cannot get the top two 16mm bolts out of the carrier, even with an impact gun. Been fighting with this thing for two days!
Hi Brian sorry to hear that! I've heard of others having the same issue, the two carrier nuts is what holds the axle in place. You might have to remove the entire carrier bracket which I think has 4 bolts that hold it onto the engine block. Once you take those 4 bolts out, the axle should come out with it. Hope this helps, good luck and thanks for watching! 👍
Ahhh ok, gotchya! Hmmmm, I'd try whacking it with a hammer and then spray those two bolts with PB blaster and let it soak overnight if you can. If that doesn't work it's time to get some heat on it.
@@TrickShiftGarage I finally got it. Believe it or not just a standard socket worked. I think the PB just had enough time to soak in. I was definitely never getting it out with a slide hammer. I had to file the rust out of the old carrier before reinstalling. Thanks for the help though!!
Great video and i’m a current subscriber. In a comment, you recommended replacing the trans fluid seal. Its a tough reach. Does it just pop out and pop back in? How hard is it to do that? Thanks!
Sorry to hear that, I know some others had issues pulling it out because it was seizing to the CV axle mount. I think there are 4 bolts that hold that on. If you can get that off the engine and then whack it with a rubber mallet to get it separated from the axle you should be good to go. Good luck! 😊
Usually, it's not that easy to take out the axle, espcially if the car has a lot of mileage on it. I had to change both of my axles, and I decided to take it to a mechanic instead of trying to do it myself.
Yeah, my driver side axle was a pain in the ass to get off, took about an hour to pull it out of the transmission. And the passenger side's carrier bearing and bracket can weld itself together in high salt regions. Luckily mine wasn't the case or I'd have to unbolt the bracket off and separate it that way and put it back on. Thanks for watching!
@@TrickShiftGarage I had to change the hub assembly to one of them because it was so rusted. Thanks for the videos. One of them helped me changed both headlight assemblies and saved me a lot of money.
It was about 1/2 quart for me when I did it. I would pour about 1/4 of a quart at a time and then re-measure it until it's up to the fill line. Also, make sure your transmission fluid is good and warmed up to get an accurate measure..😉 Thanks for watching!!!
No, these axles come sealed with grease from the factory, you should never have to grease them up because the rubber boots are sealed tight to prevent leaking. Thanks for watching! 👍
So I just looked it up and for a 2007 model year it is indeed 92 ft-lbs. However, for the 2008 - 2012 model years Nissan bumped the torque spec to 129 ft-lbs, which is really strange. My apologies, I'll update the description and pin a comment to the top of the comments section. Thank you so much for checking me on it!
It was not easy. I had to get in there and remove the plate that holds the Axle in between. ( I'm not talking the small flat plate that keeps it in place from moving) Once I got it, I had to beat it out on the Concrete. No way it was coming out easy by hand. It was still good information on how to. Save over $1,000 in labor and went ahead and replaced all shocks around
Awesome bro! Glad you were able to get the job done! Yeah, corrosion can seize that area up badly. Replacing your shocks was smart, might as well since you only had to take off the top bolts. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@TrickShiftGarage on another note, I jack up my car so high, the back wheel came off the ground 3 inches and being that high, no transmission fuild was spilled. That help me avoid adding transmission fuild . Just wanted to let the public know
UPDATE: The torque spec for the Spindle Nut is the following:
2007: 92 ft-lbs
2008-2012: 129 ft-lbs
Big tip for anyone doing this alone: get a bungee cord and hook it to the strut spring. Thread the CV axle through the bungee loop and boom, you have an extra hand for you to easily move the axle into the transmission without fighting the weight. Made it super easy for me!
also wanted to say thank you. Your Altima videos have saved my dad a lot of money because I can fix it for him. Just finished replacing the CV axle in an hour and a half.
Great tip! And we're glad you found our videos helpful. We have plenty more to come for the Altima so stay tuned! 😉
Will be doing this next weekend, any tips you wish you knew before doing this?
@@billybgonzalez Aside from the bungee trick, it was very straightforward and doable! There is no c-clip on the passenger side so it’s easy to pull out assuming you can get the retaining bolts out. If it’s seized and you’re unable to, you may have to take the whole piece out (which I think I had to do, but in the end it wasn’t difficult). Those are the two main things to look out for.
Otherwise, just make sure the new one clicks in and seats completely fully, and make sure to have some cvt fluid ready (Nissan ns2) in case it comes out, but mine didn’t leak any. I had it jacked up only on the passenger side and so it was leaning back, so no fluid came out.
It’s very doable! Good luck!
I am replacing the Cv axle, and I took over 4 hours trying to get the center bracket to release. I was using a slide hammer and every other trick I found online. Finally I gave up and removed the 4 bolts holding the bracket on. @ 4:53 you can see two of the 4 bolts and the other two are on the same plane, one top and one bottom, 16 mm, and much easier to remove than fighting the slide hammer. When I got the cv out, with the bracket still on the bearing, I simply hit the bracket and it fell off in about 30 seconds. Since I am also replacing the power steering pump, I am going to finish that then reinstall the cv axle. Got too cold and dark to finish last night, so I will have to finish today. Also thinking of doing the transmission fluid and filter also, 212k miles on 2010 Altima. Keep up the great work and thank you.
Dude, whoever owns that car obviously live down south, because my shits (rotors) are rusty as hell already. So much for "rust resistant".
Very thorough video. Love it! You're really motivating me into working on my car more.
Been using my car for work for over a year, so it wearing down like crazy.
Haha! Thank you so much for your comment. I'm glad to be motivating you to work on your car, you can save alot of coin doing the work yourself, as long as you have the right tools and info!
This car has racked up almost 200k miles so alot of things to fix and maintain at this point in the cars life, but I do enjoy the work (most of the time lol)
After struggling with the c clip on the driver's side I was excited to breeze through this side only to find the carrier bearing was absolutely seized in the bracket. If this happens to others in the rust belt it's not too bad to remove the bracket with 4 16mm...remove the CV bracket and all and hammer it off outside the car. Nice video still again thanks!
You're welcome! The passenger side was much smoother than dealing with the driver side, haha! Thank you for the info on the cv bracket!
Thanks I have the EXACT problem same CV axle same Altima, was lucky it came out real smooth. I lost all of the transmission fluid I removed it and measured 75 oz so I would say all of it the seal looks good and am ready to install when part arrives Friday. The torque specs I really appreciate I like to get it right the first time. Enjoy your videos
You're welcome! Glad you found our video useful. Wow, you lost quite a bit of fluid, you might as well drain the rest and refill with new fluid while you're waiting for the part lol. Thanks for watching 👍
Greatly appreciate the video quality and lighting, also focusing on important details and not including a lot of not important info
No problem, I'm glad it was useful for you. Thanks for watching👍
Done this to my wife's car yesterday . Dan the man
Awesome! Thanks for watching! 👍
Your video was very helpful. I went to pull my axle and it broke in half. Glad I replaced it.
Thank you...I'm glad you were able to get your axle off in time! You pulled it off just in time 👍
Can you post a video on how to replace the power steering and or check for leaks
Awesome video. Very clear, concise and yet thorough. Great video quality. Awesome job.
Thank you so much Neutron! 👍
Excellent video with great explanations
Nice video and thank u for your help. Also if the axle doesn’t simply just pull out of the transmission after removing those 13mm bolts then u will have to remove the bracket the axle bearing sits on which is I believe 3-4 14mm bolts and remove everything all together. Then u can separate the axle from that bracket once out of the vehicle by hammering it a little
Yeah, I think it's 4 - 14 mm bolts that hold that bracket in place, luckily ours just came out with no issues. Also, while you have the axle out, go ahead and replace the rubber seal that keeps the transmission fluid from leaking out where the axle shaft goes in! Perfect time to do that.
Thanks for watching! 👍
@@TrickShiftGarage nope. They are 16mm bolts (5/8 SAE). It's also extremely hard to remove the bearing from it. I've been hammering for over an hour and it is still stuck.
Thanks for the correct info, Adrian! I heard that it was a pain to get off. Spray some liquid wrench in there and let it soak for awhile and keep hammering away, it will come off eventually. Good luck and thanks for watching! 👍
Excellent video! Thank you for the details and great video footage.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching Brandon! 👍
It's refreshing to see an actual professional doing a video instead of these backyard wrench turners using an impact on a wheel bearing. I think any actual professional would realize how bad of an idea and unprofessional and irresponsible it is to use an impact on a bearing. Great job buddy keep up the good work there are others like you out here that appreciate it.
Thanks Joshua, I appreciate it! I agree with you 100%, an impact has its time and place but it's not on a wheel bearing. Thanks for watching! 👍
I have 2016 Altima is it a same procedure yes no
Overall, it should be similar. Some bolts may be different sizes, but the process should be similar.
If you change it out, be sure to come back and let us know of any similarities or differences! It could help a lot of people with the same question!
what yr. is this? Does the 09 Altima have abs ring on the passenger side? Thanks in advance. EXCELLENT VIDEO!
It's a 2007 so it doesn't have ABS (it was still optional for that year which is crazy to me lol). I think 2008 and onward have ABS standard so you should have the ABS ring on your 2009. Glad the video was helpful, thanks for watching! 👍
@@TrickShiftGarage The cv axle we ordered doesn't have. But if the one we will be fixing does we should be able to use the old one abs ring correct?
To be honest, I don't know. In that situation I would probably just take it back and get the correct axle.
I don't think the ring is on the cv axle for these cars.
you are correct
@@XenomorphLV426
thanks...very complete presentation
Thanks for watching! 👍
Did you reuse the little bushing thing at the end of the cv axle where it goes into the transmission? I ordered new cv axles but they didn’t come with new ones so I didn’t know if they needed to be replaced or not?
There was one provided with the new CV axle, so I replaced it. Personally, I would replace it with a new one while the axle is still out. Check with your local auto parts store to see if they may have one in stock. If they don't, then a Nissan dealer should be able to get you one. Good luck!
Great video, thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!👍
I've been re-greasing my CV axles with ripped boots in my Maxima for over 10 years, every oil change. I use a acid brush, goop it up, stab the grease in. Im finally getting around to replacing the left driven axle because it started making crunching noises after a long 2000 mile trip in severe winter conditions.
A ripped boot is just a ripped boot. You can go 100,000 miles or more if the joints are good. It's not a big deal unless it's on a 4WD and you drive off-road or on dirt & gravel roads.
If the boot is split open in the middle away from the moving joint parts, just pack the grease inside away from the split and it will generally stay there. What flings out initially is excess grease from the factory.
Obviously, not everyone should do as I do. But if you work on your on stuff, there's no need to fix what isn't broken. Grease inside the wheel well hurts nothing but prevents corrosion.
Thanks for the comment Brent! I drove with the bust CV boot for longer than I would like to admit. Eventually it started to make an ever growing louder sound that I didn't want to take the chance anymore, haha! Thanks for watching 👍
what kind of grease do u put in cv boot? there are so many types but none say for cv? is there a brand or model u recommend? also how do u know how much to put in?
@@BillSW Lithium based EP grease with moly.
Nice job bro, thanks!
You're welcome Dustin! Thanks for watching! 👍
Thank you for that video. Now that I have replaced the CV axle, I have to top up the transmission fluid. Do you know how to do that if the top-up-screw is not possible to be removed anymore? I heard I could do it via the speedometer access point? Thanks!
You're welcome Magnet! The top up screw gets STUCK sometimes if it hasn't been pulled out in a while. What you can do is grab some pliers and gently rotate it back and forth. It should come out eventually.
I haven't heard of using the speed sensor location before as an alternate location to fill from but I'll look into it and let you know if I find anything. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@TrickShiftGarage Thanks for the reply, a self built tool and a heat gun finally did the job
I ended up having to pour 0.6l more in there than originally was in there, curious to find out what happened there
2011 Altima R cv axle boot completely gone it's just a few days before I can get one but car started pulling hard like bad caliper I've never had cv axle make it pull it's not even popping yet but I got slop when I jack it up and check side to side wheel bearing seems fine tho no slop checking slop top n bottom of wheel and tire any advice appreciated
Awesome video
Thanks for watching! 🤟
Do I need to top up the CVT oil after I finish the axle change? Thanks in advance!
Probably, it may be only a quarter of a quart, mine took about half a quart. Thanks for watching! 👍
Will a bad CV axel cause loss of transmission fluid? 😅
Possibly! If the CV axle isn't installed correctly and pushed all the way into the transmission, it could leak. The more likely scenario is the seal where the axle end goes into the transmission has gone bad and is leaking out. That's where I would start. Thanks for watching Thunder Bear!
My boot just got damaged last week or so and there is a lot of grease splattered around. Do I need to fix this immediately or can I wait for a little while before I either attempt to do this myself or take it in? Also is the Transmission Shift Shaft Seal the correct seal you mentioned to also replace?
Honestly, I'd try to get it fixed as soon as humanely possible. A CV axle could fall apart while driving (depending on how bad the rupture is) and you could lose control of your car...pretty bad stuff.
Make sure to drive carefully and try to avoid high speeds as this will increase the chance of the CV axle self-destructing unexpectedly. Good luck and be safe!
If you have any questions feel free to let us know! Thanks for watching! 👍
Did you have to refill on trans fluid
Yes sir! I had to add about a half court of trans fluid. Thanks for watching Mike! 👍
Great job brother thanks
Anytime! Thanks for watching!
Good video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! 🙂
Hello! I did this to my Nissan Altima and noticed that now my vehicle jumps when putting it into drive. Another issue that has risen is that my vehicle appears to delay sometimes with it not wanting to accelerate at all when I push down on the throttle only for it to finally jump forward after a few seconds. Any thoughts on what might have happened? I checked for leaking fluid and nothing else has been leaking.
Hello Gabe! I suspect your fluid level might be low. It could also be time to change the fluid if it's been awhile. These transmissions are very finicky when it comes to their fluid. Hope this helps, good luck!
Trying to get this done on my wife's car and I cannot get the original axle out. I've even been trying a slide hammer. I also cannot get the top two 16mm bolts out of the carrier, even with an impact gun. Been fighting with this thing for two days!
Hi Brian sorry to hear that! I've heard of others having the same issue, the two carrier nuts is what holds the axle in place. You might have to remove the entire carrier bracket which I think has 4 bolts that hold it onto the engine block. Once you take those 4 bolts out, the axle should come out with it. Hope this helps, good luck and thanks for watching! 👍
@@TrickShiftGarage the carrier is what I can't remove. I got 2 of the 4 out :(
Ahhh ok, gotchya! Hmmmm, I'd try whacking it with a hammer and then spray those two bolts with PB blaster and let it soak overnight if you can. If that doesn't work it's time to get some heat on it.
@@TrickShiftGarage I finally got it. Believe it or not just a standard socket worked. I think the PB just had enough time to soak in. I was definitely never getting it out with a slide hammer. I had to file the rust out of the old carrier before reinstalling. Thanks for the help though!!
Great video and i’m a current subscriber. In a comment, you recommended replacing the trans fluid seal. Its a tough reach. Does it just pop out and pop back in? How hard is it to do that? Thanks!
Do they need to be replaced in pairs?
No, you don't have to replace both if the other one is fine. 👍
@@TrickShiftGarage thanks
You're welcome 🙂
Did this car have ABS?
Nope, unfortunately Nissan made it optional for the 2007 model year. It did become standard on 2008 and later models though. Thanks for watching! 🙂
You didn't clean up all that grease..?
I cleaned it up later...thanks for watching 🙂
If only it was this easy I can't get the axle out of the transmission part
Sorry to hear that, I know some others had issues pulling it out because it was seizing to the CV axle mount. I think there are 4 bolts that hold that on. If you can get that off the engine and then whack it with a rubber mallet to get it separated from the axle you should be good to go. Good luck! 😊
How long should this take from start to finish?
It should take about 2 - 3 hours from start to finish. Thanks for watching!
Usually, it's not that easy to take out the axle, espcially if the car has a lot of mileage on it. I had to change both of my axles, and I decided to take it to a mechanic instead of trying to do it myself.
Yeah, my driver side axle was a pain in the ass to get off, took about an hour to pull it out of the transmission. And the passenger side's carrier bearing and bracket can weld itself together in high salt regions. Luckily mine wasn't the case or I'd have to unbolt the bracket off and separate it that way and put it back on. Thanks for watching!
@@TrickShiftGarage I had to change the hub assembly to one of them because it was so rusted. Thanks for the videos. One of them helped me changed both headlight assemblies and saved me a lot of money.
You're welcome! Glad to have helped you with that. 😁
Gracias por compartir creo que yo la cambiare con solo apretarla suficiente lo del torque sera a mi pulso.
Ok, siena bien, gracias por ver!
😮amazing
Thanks Erick! 👍
How can you guess the torque using just the body strength lol I don’t have one of those wrenches
You can't lol, sorry! Harbor Freight, Home Depot, or Lowe's should have them. Thanks for watching!
I know it’s 2 years late but harbor freight has torque wrenches for $10 and all over Amazon as well.
I quartz cvt fluid?
It was about 1/2 quart for me when I did it. I would pour about 1/4 of a quart at a time and then re-measure it until it's up to the fill line. Also, make sure your transmission fluid is good and warmed up to get an accurate measure..😉
Thanks for watching!!!
No need to put grease in the new axle?
No, these axles come sealed with grease from the factory, you should never have to grease them up because the rubber boots are sealed tight to prevent leaking.
Thanks for watching! 👍
Are you sure the 32mm axle nut is 92lbs?
So I just looked it up and for a 2007 model year it is indeed 92 ft-lbs.
However, for the 2008 - 2012 model years Nissan bumped the torque spec to 129 ft-lbs, which is really strange. My apologies, I'll update the description and pin a comment to the top of the comments section.
Thank you so much for checking me on it!
@@TrickShiftGarage Thank you for making your videos, it really helps me fix my 2010 altima
We are glad to help you, and thanks for watching! 👍
It was not easy. I had to get in there and remove the plate that holds the Axle in between.
( I'm not talking the small flat plate that keeps it in place from moving)
Once I got it, I had to beat it out on the Concrete. No way it was coming out easy by hand.
It was still good information on how to.
Save over $1,000 in labor and went ahead and replaced all shocks around
Awesome bro! Glad you were able to get the job done! Yeah, corrosion can seize that area up badly. Replacing your shocks was smart, might as well since you only had to take off the top bolts. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@TrickShiftGarage on another note, I jack up my car so high, the back wheel came off the ground 3 inches and being that high, no transmission fuild was spilled.
That help me avoid adding transmission fuild .
Just wanted to let the public know
Thanks for the tips! Appreciate it!
Should leave nuts on bolts when you use hammer. Also axle housing seal should be replaced when installing new cv axle, your just asking for a leak
Thanks for the tip! Yes I totally regret not changing the seal out when I had the chance. Thanks for watching 👍
i would say that while you in that deep, go ahead replace both
shocks and AXLES
Yeah, I wish I did! 👍
Music is a bit too loud mate can't hear you well
Noted! We will do better in the future! Thanks for watching! 🤟