Hate using paper tape, I prefer to spend a bit more and get the sticky fibre tape. It's an open mesh tape and fills rather than embedding a paper tape.
I would have taped it, but also screwed it first as you did. I'm not sure it would be a choice...You''ll find out in a year or two. If the crack reappears you should tape it. Or, tape it now and never worry about it.
No, I have taped joints on new plasterboard, its fine when you use tapered edge board, but despite filling and feathering several times over a reasonable width, as a repair I can still see the bulges from certain angles. I tend to do as you did and rescrew the boards back to the joists, but instead of putting noggins in, I make holes along the crack at 6” centres and spray some expanding foam through. This plugs and holds the boards from behind pretty well. Then I scrape out the joint and fill with a flexible filler such as polyfiller, rub down and finish with the lightweight filler, this gives a strong and invisible finish. Then the big improvement is the type of paint you use, many matt emulsions have a bit of a shine which can highlight imperfections, but something like Tikkurila anti- reflex is almost completely matt and does an incredible job. You can also touch it up again and it completely blends the old paint with new without the need to repaint the entire ceiling. It is double the price of trade emulsion but it really is very much better
2 tips from my years of home decorating - don't take the filler straight from the pot to the wall, put a dollop on a bigger trowel/ mortar board and use the filling trowel/scraper to fill the holes. Stroke the filler into bigger and deeper holes in several directions so you press the filler to the sides of the hole. You then can keep the filling trowel clean by scraping it on the edge of the mortar board and the clean scraper will allow you to have a cleaner fill and less sanding. Small fills shouldn't need sanding, fill them neatly, don't leave it proud, then clean the surrounding area with a damp sponge. You will save time and mess and dust!! 2 - with the noggins in the loft, if you put the wide side of the noggin to the board you have a wider target to hit with the screw! Keep up the good work!!
Great work, yes all the hole crack and damage repairing on walls and ceilings is super tedious - doing it myself now. I was reading through various forums and a lot of painters say they never paint over PVA, they don't mix. I use a squeezy thing used for blowing dust off keyboards, to blow all the dust out of holes & cracks before filling. If you have an air compressor that would be even better. I'm loving this renovation series!
A number of small magnets usually make good stud finders. They don't find the stud itself but the screws and nails used to fix the plasterboard to the stud
I was amazed you started manual sanding... my wife was annoyed at the time I was taking to do a proper job that produced dust. Out came the DeWalt sanders that attached to the wet and dry vacuum that captured the majority of the dust... I was still in trouble for how long the sealants took to dry. My wife thought stripping the wallpaper and painting the room would take one day.... we used a steam wallpaper stripper during the host day of the summer, then I used goo gone to get rid of the wa;paper paste, I fixed the gaps and dinks in the walls as best I could once they were dry, they were sanded down... after I let the dust settle I dampened down the wall to reduce and more dust. This took three days to prep a room that hadn't been decorated in 8 years, the wallpaper was badly installed and pulling plaster... After the three days the paint was applied but my wife sometimes mentions blemishes on the wall. I just bite my tongue as it never matters that much.
The storage radiators are likely to have ceramic fibre board as the insulation material...successor to asbestos, but still really bad to breathe. Might be worth getting some small rare earth magnets that you can use to stick to the existing nails in the ceiling so you can find the joists. More reliable than a stud finder.
If you get plaster wall lights you can paint them to match your decor. We did that and left the inside of them white we also paired them with a dimmer switch LED-compatible one. Looks great.
Looking good! I hate stud finders, they are a right game. Adding screws in was the right thing to do on the ceiling. One tip I would sugest is go up in the loft and drill a couple of small holes beside the joist, ping a stringline across them on the ceiling and then you know to screw just to the side of the line. I would also recomend getting a wall sanding pad attachment that fits on a paint roller pole, it makes de-nibbing between coats and sanding over head so much less tiring.
Maybe get a magnetic stud buddy, these have a strong magnet inside and will find the fixings, I use mine all the time, very handy for find direction of timbers too, you still haven't got a drywall screw bit for your driver yet have you? All seriousness though look up stud buddy. Enjoy the filling work.
Thanks so much for the suggestion - I've now ordered both off amazon (no, I hadn't bought drywall screw bits yet 😀)... I'll try both out in a future video for sure!
Thanks so much. Glad he was up there. My stud finder kept coming up with electric cables that weren't there, too, so I would've have been going up to try and check myself and back down again 😅
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK *Yep if it was just you going up and down non-stop.... would have to the hardest... BTW, Is the stud-finder machine damaged... maybe it has been dropped once to often? Cos lets face it... nothing lasts forever these days.*
One of the things I was surprised about doing this was the reaction of some fillers to heat from electrical wires. It releases an oil that leeches through the emulsion to give a nice streak down the wall. On the plus side, I don't need to search for the wires when I'm nailing stuff up.
I always add paint to the filler. Stops it flashing, and makes it easier to sand. Recently, I screwed and taped, but that was for under wallpaper. Foam is also a good option for moving walls - glues it in place.
there is a more low tech stud finder available - a magnet! It will stick to existing screws in the plasterboard so you can see quickly where the joists are...
You must have the patience of a saint 😂 those tedious jobs are sometime put in the “too hard box” in my house 😂 that’s a bloody good tip about the sanding, thank you - I’d always treated it like wood and went up the grits - but this will at least halve my time. The place is looking amazing, such a wonderful project 🙏
Whenever you're running cables for a TV, always run at least two of everything. Better to have spares than to have an issue and need to mess around running new. It doesn't take any extra time as you're doing it anyway!
I found that if you can access above the crack and there is no joist to fix to, short pieces of old plaster board laid over the crack with lots of board adhesive (in several places along the crack) works a treat.
Jobs like this can become soul destroying, filling ,priming ,sanding repeat, repeat, repeat….. My latest discovery is a game changer, it’s plaster of Paris! 🎉🎉🎉 deep holes will set in minutes. Then I will use Easifill 60. I like your watery mixed powder filler technique, but I do recommend a ready mixed ‘fine surface filler’ instead for those final touches just before painting. My tip instead of fitting noggins over the ceiling crack is just to screw fix some off cuts of board , (18 m plywood or chipboard) above the crack/ joint to ‘stitch’ the joint together. Much quicker as don’t need to cut each piece to fit. Keep up the good work 😊
Judging by the crack there is no tape on the joins of the plasterboard, this means there’s a good chance the crack will continue to return over time. Would suggest either using scrim tape or paper taping this join and apply 3 flushes of filler over the tape
I agree and I've seen no tape used throughout so far, but hoping for this room, with the extra supports above, they won't come back. If they do.... I'll have to tape them up
Best way to find the rough bits on walls, is a bright light held against the wall, pointing sideways. Recheck after every coat of paint, and re-sand the new bits that appear. Hours of OCD sanding fun to be had!
That lightweight filler is great stuff for finishing before painting, if you see a blemish or small dent before you start painting, scrape some of that over it and you can paint directly over after 30 minutes without rubbing down or priming
Definitely consider adding a network cable/port if you are adding a socket behind your wall mounted TV. Hardwired networking will help to ensure the TV doesn't buffer! Since you have the loft access to run the cables, it should be an easy task. Cat6 recommended.
Next time, assuming you have access above, push an awl down the side of the joist so when below you can see where the joists are. Only a small hole to be filled as you go along
On a ceiling use the finest screwdriver and use screwing action to poke up to feel for joist, easy on arms than using drill, all little holes are easy to fill.
A trick we do in NA (not everywhere, but better skilled plasterers) we mix our own mud for ceiling work where we put the PVA in the water (just a bit, your ratio is good) and mix the mud, and use some Plaster of Paris to decrease dry time.
I've got a crack in a wall that has come back after my repair and a crack in an artexed ceiling. I shall be following your methods to try and repair them and have noted your advice on fillers. All DIY is hard work. Don't enjoy it so much now at nearly 70 and procastination gets in the way. LOL. Your place is going to look FAB! ❤
If I’ve ever had to go into the loft to find fixing points, or as you found, floating plaster boards, I simply pieced through the board from above giving me a perfect reference point for the stud, my reasoning is I’m filling anyway so a little hole to give that secure fixing is worth it.
Hi Vickie, I had the same problems as you with long cracks in ceilings. One of the things I did was to drill small holes along the crack, then use low expanding foam. Leave overnight, cut off the excess and then fill. I don’t like the tape, as you say it take ages to get a decent finish. I picked up the foam tip from a UTube guy, painting and decorating. I’m enjoying following your renovation series of videos 👍
Thanks for ykur experience - that is very interesting!!!! I'll search for that on TH-cam. Worth a shot as I have LOADS in the house as tape hasn't been used
In the past l have used screws to strengthen the boards each side of the cracks, same as you did. Then l scrape off plaster the width of mesh self adhesive tape back to the bare board and apply the tape. This recesses the tape deep enough to fill over so its nice and smooth when rubbed down. I have never had a crack come back using this method.
Thanks for the tips. I think I'll have to do this with the rest of the house where the Skim is coming off. However, I can see removing much of it being very tedious. What do you find is the best tool to scrape it off?
I score the plaster each side of the cracks with a Stanley knife. Then using a old screwdriver or chisel l scrap off between, sometimes tapping the tool with a hammer. You can cut the scrim tape in half length ways to have a narrower trench. This is tedious but is quicker in the long run than the cracks coming back! Hope this helps. Also l use Tetrion filler l mix myself, as l find this the easiest filler to rub down when dry.
Hiya If your going to hang a tv on the dot and dab wall. Might be an idea to Add loads of dab to that area for support and check out core fix fixings. As mentioned further up its worth adding an ethernet socket for the tv and when i did my walls ive addex trunking for hdmi cables to run through so you have no cables hanging anywhere at all. Good luck with the next job i look forward to seeing it progress.
Thanks for the heads up regarding more adhesive. Also, already on it with Corefix 😀 at 20:41 you can see a small red and white box of it on the floor. They sent me some years ago to try and never found a use until very soon.
Vicki, we live in a similar 70’s bungalow, every room in our house has sagging ceilings, or pillowing where the plasterboard sags between joists. I was told it is because the builder used thinner plaster board, normally used for ceilings on the ground floor of a two story house. Thicker plaster board should have been used for ceilings below a loft due to the differences between warm and cold spaces.unfortunately for me we are going to have to drop all the ceilings as they are too far gone. Love the channel.
Hi, early 60's bungalow here, same thing with 9mm plasterboard throughout, unevenness, and cracking, and asbestos artex on top, and to make it even more fun, polystyrene tiles stuck to all that with the thickest hardest glue ever. Help! 😫
Ceiling cracks - with loft above. I had a few cracks on my 1st floor landing which followed joints in the plasterboard. Went into the loft & wedged some scrap wood planks between the joists under the insulation above the cracks. I then & screwed through the plasterboard up into the planks from below. This stopped the plasterboard joints from moving any further. I then made a V gouge in the cracks to make space for filler & mesh tape. This was made more difficult because I had a heavily textured ceiling. Lots of blending & stippling & a fresh coat of matt emulsion later & the cracks have totally disappeared. Another great video.
A proper job often takes more time. You can’t rush wallboard fixes. Without places to screw into you can’t expect the cracks not to just be back as there are temperature changes or some movement and you’re right back to where you started. You corrected the problem the right way.
just finished our bedroom i used easifill 60 and it was superb, had a huge area to fill around the patio doors (where the old plaster had given up) and it filled it really well, could be worth trying on your large ceiling bit (when it dries!)
Thanks. When taping up my dining room, I used both the Toupret and Easifill60 to compare and found they're much of a muchness. I do have a smidgen left over which may be worth using for the final finish
Don’t use Pva, use SBR for bonding before plastering, fillers or sizing prior to papering, will not emulsify when in contact with wet or damp products……..
If it was me, I would have added the screws and used paper tape or an ultra fine mesh. I understand why you wouldn't want to add the paper tape and if the crack do come back, you can always add the tape as needed.
In my experience. All them hairline cracks you've filled and hidden with paint. They will eventually come back. Maybe not for a while. But they will appear again eventually.
If they come back on the walls, then I'll be repeating the v-gouging and just use watered down powdered filler. It's very quick to dry and easy to sand.
Thanks for letting me know! That's so irritating it caught me out!! I'm so sorry! I know that's never a comfortable experience, but thanks for letting me know. I'll have to double check for next time and start editing with headphones.
Would you have gone down the taping method?
Hate using paper tape, I prefer to spend a bit more and get the sticky fibre tape. It's an open mesh tape and fills rather than embedding a paper tape.
I would have taped it, but also screwed it first as you did. I'm not sure it would be a choice...You''ll find out in a year or two. If the crack reappears you should tape it. Or, tape it now and never worry about it.
No, I have taped joints on new plasterboard, its fine when you use tapered edge board, but despite filling and feathering several times over a reasonable width, as a repair I can still see the bulges from certain angles. I tend to do as you did and rescrew the boards back to the joists, but instead of putting noggins in, I make holes along the crack at 6” centres and spray some expanding foam through. This plugs and holds the boards from behind pretty well. Then I scrape out the joint and fill with a flexible filler such as polyfiller, rub down and finish with the lightweight filler, this gives a strong and invisible finish. Then the big improvement is the type of paint you use, many matt emulsions have a bit of a shine which can highlight imperfections, but something like Tikkurila anti- reflex is almost completely matt and does an incredible job. You can also touch it up again and it completely blends the old paint with new without the need to repaint the entire ceiling. It is double the price of trade emulsion but it really is very much better
Would probabably still want to shove some scrap platerboard on the back with adhesive in addition to tape.
2 tips from my years of home decorating - don't take the filler straight from the pot to the wall, put a dollop on a bigger trowel/ mortar board and use the filling trowel/scraper to fill the holes. Stroke the filler into bigger and deeper holes in several directions so you press the filler to the sides of the hole. You then can keep the filling trowel clean by scraping it on the edge of the mortar board and the clean scraper will allow you to have a cleaner fill and less sanding. Small fills shouldn't need sanding, fill them neatly, don't leave it proud, then clean the surrounding area with a damp sponge. You will save time and mess and dust!! 2 - with the noggins in the loft, if you put the wide side of the noggin to the board you have a wider target to hit with the screw! Keep up the good work!!
Great work, yes all the hole crack and damage repairing on walls and ceilings is super tedious - doing it myself now. I was reading through various forums and a lot of painters say they never paint over PVA, they don't mix. I use a squeezy thing used for blowing dust off keyboards, to blow all the dust out of holes & cracks before filling. If you have an air compressor that would be even better. I'm loving this renovation series!
A number of small magnets usually make good stud finders. They don't find the stud itself but the screws and nails used to fix the plasterboard to the stud
I was amazed you started manual sanding... my wife was annoyed at the time I was taking to do a proper job that produced dust.
Out came the DeWalt sanders that attached to the wet and dry vacuum that captured the majority of the dust... I was still in trouble for how long the sealants took to dry.
My wife thought stripping the wallpaper and painting the room would take one day.... we used a steam wallpaper stripper during the host day of the summer, then I used goo gone to get rid of the wa;paper paste, I fixed the gaps and dinks in the walls as best I could once they were dry, they were sanded down... after I let the dust settle I dampened down the wall to reduce and more dust.
This took three days to prep a room that hadn't been decorated in 8 years, the wallpaper was badly installed and pulling plaster...
After the three days the paint was applied but my wife sometimes mentions blemishes on the wall. I just bite my tongue as it never matters that much.
The storage radiators are likely to have ceramic fibre board as the insulation material...successor to asbestos, but still really bad to breathe.
Might be worth getting some small rare earth magnets that you can use to stick to the existing nails in the ceiling so you can find the joists. More reliable than a stud finder.
It all looks totally transformed already - it's gonna be such an amazing room :)
Thanks, Claire. It's very slowly getting there 😀 Just trying to agree on lighting now. Too much to choose from 😆
If you get plaster wall lights you can paint them to match your decor. We did that and left the inside of them white we also paired them with a dimmer switch LED-compatible one. Looks great.
Looking good! I hate stud finders, they are a right game. Adding screws in was the right thing to do on the ceiling. One tip I would sugest is go up in the loft and drill a couple of small holes beside the joist, ping a stringline across them on the ceiling and then you know to screw just to the side of the line. I would also recomend getting a wall sanding pad attachment that fits on a paint roller pole, it makes de-nibbing between coats and sanding over head so much less tiring.
Argh you've got me again. Always leave us wanting more! Well played! 😁
Looking better already 👍😄
You must put a large conduit in the wall for all your av stuff for tv hdmi ethernet etc etc as well as power great video thanks
Thanks. I've been ordering stuff to get sorted 😀
Maybe get a magnetic stud buddy, these have a strong magnet inside and will find the fixings, I use mine all the time, very handy for find direction of timbers too, you still haven't got a drywall screw bit for your driver yet have you? All seriousness though look up stud buddy. Enjoy the filling work.
Thanks so much for the suggestion - I've now ordered both off amazon (no, I hadn't bought drywall screw bits yet 😀)... I'll try both out in a future video for sure!
*Well done... a lot of hard work.... 🙂 Your hubby is a good man, to climb up into the ceiling as you were working well together. 🙂nz*
Thanks so much. Glad he was up there. My stud finder kept coming up with electric cables that weren't there, too, so I would've have been going up to try and check myself and back down again 😅
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK *Yep if it was just you going up and down non-stop.... would have to the hardest... BTW, Is the stud-finder machine damaged... maybe it has been dropped once to often? Cos lets face it... nothing lasts forever these days.*
Clever dog
One of the things I was surprised about doing this was the reaction of some fillers to heat from electrical wires. It releases an oil that leeches through the emulsion to give a nice streak down the wall. On the plus side, I don't need to search for the wires when I'm nailing stuff up.
I always add paint to the filler. Stops it flashing, and makes it easier to sand.
Recently, I screwed and taped, but that was for under wallpaper.
Foam is also a good option for moving walls - glues it in place.
there is a more low tech stud finder available - a magnet! It will stick to existing screws in the plasterboard so you can see quickly where the joists are...
You must have the patience of a saint 😂 those tedious jobs are sometime put in the “too hard box” in my house 😂 that’s a bloody good tip about the sanding, thank you - I’d always treated it like wood and went up the grits - but this will at least halve my time. The place is looking amazing, such a wonderful project 🙏
Whenever you're running cables for a TV, always run at least two of everything. Better to have spares than to have an issue and need to mess around running new. It doesn't take any extra time as you're doing it anyway!
I found that if you can access above the crack and there is no joist to fix to, short pieces of old plaster board laid over the crack with lots of board adhesive (in several places along the crack) works a treat.
What a great idea! I've got plenty spare bits, so worth a try in the future!
Brilliant another job ticked off the list it’s going to look fantastic when it’s all done, well done Vikkie and Mr TCD 😊
Jobs like this can become soul destroying, filling ,priming ,sanding repeat, repeat, repeat…..
My latest discovery is a game changer, it’s plaster of Paris! 🎉🎉🎉 deep holes will set in minutes. Then I will use Easifill 60.
I like your watery mixed powder filler technique, but I do recommend a ready mixed ‘fine surface filler’ instead for those final touches just before painting.
My tip instead of fitting noggins over the ceiling crack is just to screw fix some off cuts of board , (18 m plywood or chipboard) above the crack/ joint to ‘stitch’ the joint together. Much quicker as don’t need to cut each piece to fit.
Keep up the good work 😊
Use expanding foam to fill the holes and cracks then trim off any excess then apply some filler to finish off and sand. 👍
Judging by the crack there is no tape on the joins of the plasterboard, this means there’s a good chance the crack will continue to return over time. Would suggest either using scrim tape or paper taping this join and apply 3 flushes of filler over the tape
I agree and I've seen no tape used throughout so far, but hoping for this room, with the extra supports above, they won't come back. If they do.... I'll have to tape them up
Best way to find the rough bits on walls, is a bright light held against the wall, pointing sideways. Recheck after every coat of paint, and re-sand the new bits that appear. Hours of OCD sanding fun to be had!
That lightweight filler is great stuff for finishing before painting, if you see a blemish or small dent before you start painting, scrape some of that over it and you can paint directly over after 30 minutes without rubbing down or priming
Very interesting. Been meaning to tackle the kitchen ceiling for along time. This has been the motivation and technical know how needed.
Definitely consider adding a network cable/port if you are adding a socket behind your wall mounted TV. Hardwired networking will help to ensure the TV doesn't buffer! Since you have the loft access to run the cables, it should be an easy task. Cat6 recommended.
Thanks so much. You'll enjoy this Sunday's video then 😆
Add some containment in the wall so you can pull hdmi and future cable if needed etc.. assuming your have a media cabinet below
❤❤❤
Next time, assuming you have access above, push an awl down the side of the joist so when below you can see where the joists are. Only a small hole to be filled as you go along
Thanks. That would've been SO much quicker to be honest 😆😆
On a ceiling use the finest screwdriver and use screwing action to poke up to feel for joist, easy on arms than using drill, all little holes are easy to fill.
Mechanical fixings every time Vikkie
Nice job.
This brings back nightmare memories of filling what felt like hundreds of holes in my hall walls.
A trick we do in NA (not everywhere, but better skilled plasterers) we mix our own mud for ceiling work where we put the PVA in the water (just a bit, your ratio is good) and mix the mud, and use some Plaster of Paris to decrease dry time.
You did a very thorough job Vikkie. Well done.
Thanks so much! Hopefully the ceiling cracks won't come back, but if they do, I'll just get the tape out 😀
I've got a crack in a wall that has come back after my repair and a crack in an artexed ceiling. I shall be following your methods to try and repair them and have noted your advice on fillers. All DIY is hard work. Don't enjoy it so much now at nearly 70 and procastination gets in the way. LOL. Your place is going to look FAB! ❤
I use Easifill. Comes in big bags
NICE WORK VIKKIE ❤️ ❤️❤️❤️❤️💐
If I’ve ever had to go into the loft to find fixing points, or as you found, floating plaster boards, I simply pieced through the board from above giving me a perfect reference point for the stud, my reasoning is I’m filling anyway so a little hole to give that secure fixing is worth it.
Santex exterior smooth paint for your ceilings matt no more cracks 😊
Hi Vickie, I had the same problems as you with long cracks in ceilings. One of the things I did was to drill small holes along the crack, then use low expanding foam. Leave overnight, cut off the excess and then fill. I don’t like the tape, as you say it take ages to get a decent finish. I picked up the foam tip from a UTube guy, painting and decorating. I’m enjoying following your renovation series of videos 👍
Thanks for ykur experience - that is very interesting!!!! I'll search for that on TH-cam. Worth a shot as I have LOADS in the house as tape hasn't been used
Vikkie great job.I have one of those stud finders, they are a pain in the bum.
I used to get on so well with it... but wow.. it was awful for when I needed it here 😅
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Yeah you have to keep restarting it, really annoying .
In the past l have used screws to strengthen the boards each side of the cracks, same as you did. Then l scrape off plaster the width of mesh self adhesive tape back to the bare board and apply the tape. This recesses the tape deep enough to fill over so its nice and smooth when rubbed down.
I have never had a crack come back using this method.
Thanks for the tips. I think I'll have to do this with the rest of the house where the Skim is coming off. However, I can see removing much of it being very tedious. What do you find is the best tool to scrape it off?
I score the plaster each side of the cracks with a Stanley knife. Then using a old screwdriver or chisel l scrap off between, sometimes tapping the tool with a hammer.
You can cut the scrim tape in half length ways to have a narrower trench.
This is tedious but is quicker in the long run than the cracks coming back!
Hope this helps.
Also l use Tetrion filler l mix myself, as l find this the easiest filler to rub down when dry.
Hiya If your going to hang a tv on the dot and dab wall. Might be an idea to Add loads of dab to that area for support and check out core fix fixings. As mentioned further up its worth adding an ethernet socket for the tv and when i did my walls ive addex trunking for hdmi cables to run through so you have no cables hanging anywhere at all. Good luck with the next job i look forward to seeing it progress.
Thanks for the heads up regarding more adhesive. Also, already on it with Corefix 😀 at 20:41 you can see a small red and white box of it on the floor. They sent me some years ago to try and never found a use until very soon.
Brilliant video as ever!
Glad you enjoyed it 😊
Vicki, we live in a similar 70’s bungalow, every room in our house has sagging ceilings, or pillowing where the plasterboard sags between joists. I was told it is because the builder used thinner plaster board, normally used for ceilings on the ground floor of a two story house. Thicker plaster board should have been used for ceilings below a loft due to the differences between warm and cold spaces.unfortunately for me we are going to have to drop all the ceilings as they are too far gone. Love the channel.
Hi, early 60's bungalow here, same thing with 9mm plasterboard throughout, unevenness, and cracking, and asbestos artex on top, and to make it even more fun, polystyrene tiles stuck to all that with the thickest hardest glue ever. Help! 😫
Nice job Vikkie ❤
Thanks so much :)
I used strong magnet to find the previous screws/nails. Once you line up the magnet we're able to find the joist and avoid any nails already there. 👍
Extra plasterboard screws (and extra noggins if required) is definitely the best way to stop further cracking.
Thanks. I was worried it was overkill, but really didn't want to mess about with the time it takes for getting tape spot on
Another great video - I’m loving watching your progress. I can’t wait for the window in the dining room to be removed! 💕💕👍👍👏👏👏👏
Ceiling cracks - with loft above. I had a few cracks on my 1st floor landing which followed joints in the plasterboard. Went into the loft & wedged some scrap wood planks between the joists under the insulation above the cracks. I then & screwed through the plasterboard up into the planks from below. This stopped the plasterboard joints from moving any further. I then made a V gouge in the cracks to make space for filler & mesh tape. This was made more difficult because I had a heavily textured ceiling. Lots of blending & stippling & a fresh coat of matt emulsion later & the cracks have totally disappeared. Another great video.
A proper job often takes more time. You can’t rush wallboard fixes. Without places to screw into you can’t expect the cracks not to just be back as there are temperature changes or some movement and you’re right back to where you started. You corrected the problem the right way.
Instead of plaster, alabaster is very good for hairline cracks as it is much easier to sand and smooth.
just finished our bedroom i used easifill 60 and it was superb, had a huge area to fill around the patio doors (where the old plaster had given up) and it filled it really well, could be worth trying on your large ceiling bit (when it dries!)
Thanks. When taping up my dining room, I used both the Toupret and Easifill60 to compare and found they're much of a muchness. I do have a smidgen left over which may be worth using for the final finish
You'll need Internet cable and maybe Sky cable for behind the TV.
I’d have measured the beam centres after the first one & marked the ceiling, I’ve never had much luck with those finder things either 😉
I nearly ended up doing that!!!! 😆 I edited so much swearing out... Incredibly frustrating 😅
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK Yep, been there & done that, you have my sympathy 👍
Awesome job, I'm glad you've had challenges with filler. I always thought i was doing something wrong. Thanks for another brilliant video.
Don't forget to add an ethernet connection behind where the TV is to go
and trunking for HDMI leads to where your Sky Box, Blu ray etc will be
Surely, TCD is too busy to watch TV. I've not owned a TV in 18yrs.
Ha... that's usually the case 😅 If not DIY, I'm either researching or eating 😆
Officially going down a rabbit hole now of watching videos on wiring up ethernet cables through the house 😆
Get pass through connectors if you are making your own leads or use the modules, we use the T568B version of wiring.
Stud finder - he was right in front of you all the time. 😂
gypsum easy sand 20 is very good and it doesn't leave any filler Lines
Thanks! Do you mean easifill 20 or Sheetrock Easy Sand 20 Joint Compound?
All that work above head height must have been exhausting......reckon you slept well.
Don’t use Pva, use SBR for bonding before plastering, fillers or sizing prior to papering, will not emulsify when in contact with wet or damp products……..
Would you use this on the breeze blocks before applying dot and dab?
@@TheCarpentersDaughterUK absolutely, it stops suction on porous walls etc, it’s more expensive than Pva but a correct liquid for the job.
If it was me, I would have added the screws and used paper tape or an ultra fine mesh. I understand why you wouldn't want to add the paper tape and if the crack do come back, you can always add the tape as needed.
Exactly this. I'll see how things ago and if no luck, I'll get the paper tape out 😀
Very nice mam 🎉🎉
Cheers 🍻
Nice chandelier you have in that room. I know a couple of lads from Peckham who will take that down for you.
Hahaha.... now I'm curious if any non-brits get this joke 🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Calibrate... calibrate... fudge. Calibrate... calibrate... fudge. 😄
Haha.... that should've been the title of this video 😅
Remember no one really sits and looks at their ceiling so you don’t need to go too mad with finishing 😀
Get yourself a dehumidifier, plaster will dry quicker
Good job. Lots of mice droppings up in the loft though. Not a fan of those little things.
Thanks. Yes, they were having the time of their life until we moved in 😆
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I don’t trust them stud finders I much prefer to use a strong magnet and locate the screws
That's such a good point... I wish I'd have thought of that!!!!!!!! 😅
In my experience. All them hairline cracks you've filled and hidden with paint. They will eventually come back. Maybe not for a while. But they will appear again eventually.
If they come back on the walls, then I'll be repeating the v-gouging and just use watered down powdered filler. It's very quick to dry and easy to sand.
Is mr TCD camera shy?
FYI some of the audio is only on the right channel, at minute 9 and the last two minutes. I was confused as I only had one earphone in 😂
Thanks for letting me know! That's so irritating it caught me out!! I'm so sorry! I know that's never a comfortable experience, but thanks for letting me know. I'll have to double check for next time and start editing with headphones.
If Helena Bonham Carter was good at DIY.
Ha... it's not the first time someone's said I look like her 😆
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