More good info. Hope you get more views. I usually start with the Ammeter bypass, so headlight relay power can be from the Neutral Safety Switch battery terminal. In your headlight relay, what gauge wires feeding the relays and bulbs?
Thanks, I don’t by-pass ammeters normally, next video will be about ammeters and ways to keep the ammeter and pull added loads from the alternator side of the ammeter. For headlight relay wiring, I will unwrap the forward lighting harness, replace the relay to bulb wiring with 12ga wire, including the bulb socket grounds. Have run E-code Hella 80/100watt H4s and 100 watt H1s for high beams for about 25-30 amps total current draw on high beams for many years. The heat from these lamps requires ceramic bulb sockets as well. Relay secondary power sourced from upsized alternator feed on the firewall, mentioned here in this video. Another video here I did a year ago using diagrams talks a bit about how I wire them. Also includes the use two 20 or 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breakers to independently circuit protect the two lamp wiring circuits for redundancy. More recently, swapped the Hellas out for some Holley Retrobrights LEDs on the RR/GTX. Makes the mentioned relay upgrade a bit of overkill as the LEDs don’t draw anywhere near the current the Hellas do. There is a pinned thread over on FBBO in the electrical section I did a year ago about load placement, has some follow up posts where I put up pics of the how I power these kind of added loads with an ammeter.
I am working on the next demonstration video about Ammeters, construction, the myth, the reality, some comparisons, then some load testing, is it really the number one threat to safety on this as original charging system as a lot of people have claimed for many years. After that, the plan is to cover the “shunt wire” by-pass BS some promote as making this stock system safer, hint, it makes this system far less safe. Load testing it, working out the numbers as to how it defeats the original designed circuit protection. Lastly, showing some of my modifications that allow for high output alternators and several added aftermarket loads while retaining full circuit protect and a fully functional and accurate factory ammeter. If someone has suggestions for specific subject matters, I’m all ears. Thanks
@@72roadrunnergtx I thought I seen that video the other day, but it is not showing up on your channel now? Did you remove it? I would like to see how you address the racer type trunk mount battery wiring with cut-off switch.
I have a 72 Charger with a 400......
These videos will also help my son when he gets it.....Thanks
Thanks.
More good info. Hope you get more views. I usually start with the Ammeter bypass, so headlight relay power can be from the Neutral Safety Switch battery terminal.
In your headlight relay, what gauge wires feeding the relays and bulbs?
Thanks, I don’t by-pass ammeters normally, next video will be about ammeters and ways to keep the ammeter and pull added loads from the alternator side of the ammeter. For headlight relay wiring, I will unwrap the forward lighting harness, replace the relay to bulb wiring with 12ga wire, including the bulb socket grounds. Have run E-code Hella 80/100watt H4s and 100 watt H1s for high beams for about 25-30 amps total current draw on high beams for many years. The heat from these lamps requires ceramic bulb sockets as well. Relay secondary power sourced from upsized alternator feed on the firewall, mentioned here in this video. Another video here I did a year ago using diagrams talks a bit about how I wire them. Also includes the use two 20 or 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breakers to independently circuit protect the two lamp wiring circuits for redundancy. More recently, swapped the Hellas out for some Holley Retrobrights LEDs on the RR/GTX. Makes the mentioned relay upgrade a bit of overkill as the LEDs don’t draw anywhere near the current the Hellas do.
There is a pinned thread over on FBBO in the electrical section I did a year ago about load placement, has some follow up posts where I put up pics of the how I power these kind of added loads with an ammeter.
Do you have a list of items you plan to cover? This could be a good reference series.
I am working on the next demonstration video about Ammeters, construction, the myth, the reality, some comparisons, then some load testing, is it really the number one threat to safety on this as original charging system as a lot of people have claimed for many years. After that, the plan is to cover the “shunt wire” by-pass BS some promote as making this stock system safer, hint, it makes this system far less safe. Load testing it, working out the numbers as to how it defeats the original designed circuit protection. Lastly, showing some of my modifications that allow for high output alternators and several added aftermarket loads while retaining full circuit protect and a fully functional and accurate factory ammeter. If someone has suggestions for specific subject matters, I’m all ears. Thanks
@@72roadrunnergtx I thought I seen that video the other day, but it is not showing up on your channel now? Did you remove it?
I would like to see how you address the racer type trunk mount battery wiring with cut-off switch.