For strip lights... If I wire them into the module, will I still need a power supply outside of the module? For the strip lights I have looked at, they require a power source which specifies the amount of watts... Do you know?
The main module provides a switched 110v circuit so you hard wire the lights. Think of it like a light switch that already has power. Check the manual for the max power in watts, but if you are running strip lights that are LED then they will not need much current and are most likely under the max
First of all, fantastic video! Question for you... I bought the Huum Drop 6.0kW heater with the Uku Wifi control and I'm doing the wiring myself. Like a dummy, I ran 10/2 wire instead of 10/3 wire... Will the sauna heater + controller + temp sensor + door sensor work with the 10/2? Is it just light function that I'm sacrificing without 10/3?
I think you are ok and it is only for the lighting. The heater does not use the neutral and all the other parts (except lighting) just have low voltage wiring running to them. I assume low voltage because all the components connect with thin wires like use use for a door bell or old school hardwired phone
@@handyhomerepairs Thanks for the quick reply! Yeah, I'll call the manufacturer tomorrow to confirm but I hope you're right lol. REALLY don't want to re-run the 10/3... Thanks again!
This was a great video. Question: is the high temperature wire you used, copper or tinned copper? Does the ground have to be high temp as well or just 10awg bare copper? I blew my circuit breaker after hookup
@captainsgold9903 I’m not an electrician but I bought mine from a company called Wire & Cable Your Way. Search for High Temperature Wire. It’s stranded and says it works in wet or dry locations. Says nickel coated. It handles very high amps for the gauge because it has so many strands. Technically the ground should only be needed in an emergency but I was already installing the wire so I used the same for all 3 and made sure I could securely connect it to the frame.
For continuous load circuits you need to calculate the amperage at 125% because they want you to allow extra overhead to compensate for heat dissipation since the conductors will be carrying high load for long stretches of time. Check the local wiring codes since every municipality is different.
What kind of cable did you use between the control panel and the heater? I was told I will need a heat resistant cable, but couldn't find it except as a single conductor. Please share link if you purchased it online. Thank you
@jamalothmanRN I used standard cable run to the heater but terminated it in a weatherproof sealed box on the inside of the sauna. I assumed that there was no heat radiating through the wall, foil barrier, and insulation. But, from the junction box inside the sauna, I then splice to high temperature appliance wire. The run from the box to the heater was also inside high temperature sealed conduit. I’m sure someone else will correct me if I’m incorrect. This was the wire I used. www.wireandcableyourway.com/12-awg-tggt-wire-high-temperature-wire-250-c-ul-5256-5196
@NonStopNeal I got ahead of myself and installed all the rocks and forgot to capture the wiring. It was basic 240 volt install though. There were 2 leads, one for each of the 120v legs. The ground was definitely installed with the screw to the frame since everything is metal, there is moisture, and people can easily touch. The circuit breaker is arc and ground fault. I read some places that sauna heaters can trip ground fault but we have used the sauna at least 30 times now and have never had an issue.
@tinafernandez2876 I didn’t get any with mine. The control panel for the temperature dial just surfaced mounted. The thermostat gauge also surface mounted. I added an outlet box for the wire connection for the door sensor just so I could adjust it if needed. The only box I received was the main unit for all of the wiring. The wiring for the heater element in the sauna required a waterproof box so I bought that myself as well along with all the water tight connections.
Yes. All the connections are labeled in the manual for the control box. Electrical wiring is basic, 2 hots, neutral, and ground into box (only need neutral if controlling lighting). 2 hots and ground out to the heater. I forgot to include in video because I got excited putting in the rocks but connecting the heater part was simple. The ground connected to the frame and the 2 hot 120 volt legs were connected to terminals. No electronics in the heater
Sounds good. Thanks for the info and the video. It’s the only one I’ve seen about installing a HUUM. Mine should be here in a couple weeks so this helps a lot.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful! HUUM's install manual is rather simplistic and doesn't really discuss the mounting of the wire/processor box. How did you mount it to the wall?
I had to mount to the inside of the exterior wall in the cabana. I just attached some 2x3 furring strips to the wall and some regular screws. It’s not heavy. The multiple pits of heavy gauge wire is secured underneath the box so everything has plenty of strength
@blakeb4399 I did not use the lighting circuit from the control center. I wanted to control it with a regular switch / dimmer so I ran a separate line. Did you run 4 conductors to the control center? The light needs the neutral white wire.
I don’t sorry. I sold what I had left on eBay. I bought mine on zoro. I searched around on several different sites and finally found there. Some electrical shops also had it but they were either commercial only or shipping was too much. I think I also had to wait a couple weeks for it to be in stock but finally got what I needed. This is what I ordered. Liquid-Tight Conduit,3/4 In x 25 ft,Gray
Thanks for the great video! Very helpful. I have the 9kW 50 amp breaker and am pretty lost on what wire to use from the main circuit breaker to the main module as well as from main module to the heater. Any advice? Thanks again for sharing!
@karahaskell your 50amp circuit breaker is correct for 9kw heater. 50 amp require 6 gauge wire (assuming you are in north America). You will want 6/3 for circuit breaker to control unit, which is 6 gauge with red (hot), black (hot), white (neutral), bare (ground). The 120v white is only needed for lights and some accessories but might as well run in case of future upgrades. The heater doesn't need neutral so you can continue the hot red/black and ground to the heater with 6/2 wire. All of the other connections (temperature, door sensor, remote, etc) are low voltage.
Thanks so much. It was great fun to build and I was in the same situation having to piece information together as I built or just guess sometimes if I couldn’t find help.
It is just basic wire you can get from large home center stores. Usually called NM or romex. The thickness or gauge of the wire depends on how much electricity the breaker allows. My heater is 6000 watt on a 30 amp breaker, so it needed 10 gauge wire. This is North America wire naming convention. The heater is 240 volt so it needs 2 electrical conductors and 1 ground. Its called 10/2 with ground (10 gauge, 2 conductor). It is behind the protector wall so didn’t need anything special. The wire runs into a water tight box. From that point to the heater required special wire that can handle high heat and not be affected by water. Inside the sauna it runs through a high temperature resistant and water tight conduit
@@col2007 my Huum came with that water tight box. You can buy similar ones on Amazon. If you look in the description of my other video “Stream Music Alexa Echo link…” there is a link to Outdoor protective box. That is what I use for outdoor to protect the Alexa. You can start there and find the size you need.
@chrismarino9104 yes, I believe I saw one of the other commenters mentioned that they did that. I didn’t want the heater running with the door accidentally left open and heating the outer room or running constantly so I installed the sensor
I see. That makes sense. I have careless people in house (not naming names) that may leave door open with hearing running. Mine also was wifi control as well, so would be a bad combination with remote start
I’ve been waiting for a video like this! I just put together a barrel sauna and have the drop 6. I’ve been thinking how I’d do the door sensor and never thought about doing the jumper. I’m not worried about the door issue. This is great!
Haha, no your video helped way more then just the door. I’ve been looking for months for a video on the whole wiring setup. The jumper was just a bonus. Just one less thing to worry about since mine is outside.
@@gonzo1274 I know right? I spent forever searching for electrical help and it’s a dead zone. I spent weeks trying to figure the water and heat resistance conduit for the electrical. Finally found on eBay and had to buy 25 feet to use 2 lol
The wiring was completed in only a few hours. I already purchased the circuit breaker and wiring so it was ready once the Huum heater arrived. The high temperature conduit I had to order a few weeks in advance. It was difficult to find (at a reasonable price), so I had to order off eBay. It was still $150 U.S. and I only needed 2 feet. Conduit is Liquid-Tuff Hi-Low Temperature LFMC.
@@livinglifeasa16handicapfor27 I'm not an electrician, so not sure. I read that you need a sealed box and the conduit also needs to be waterproof. In addition, since there are high temperatures you need a high temp conduit. Most of the conduit I looked at did not meet both of these conditions. I wanted to be as safe as possible since people, 240v, and wet conditions seemed like a risky situation
@TCB2023. You turned it on so the control panel with LCD is working? If you hear the click, then the relay is engaged and there should be power to the heater. Check if you are getting voltage on the “output” to the heater and maybe one of the wires or ground is not connected on the heater element? Oh you said no display? The click should not occur until the request to turn on from controller is given. Check if you have both 120v wires connected and the ground. I don’t think the white/neutral is technically needed to power the until (according to them manual it’s only for auxiliary lighting)
@@handyhomerepairs No LCD display. Click happens when I turn on the breaker. Its 208v. HUUM said it should still work just 20% less output. Haven't heard back from them other than that. We're in Hawaii. Appreciate your help
@@TCB2023. is this 208 volt 3-phase? If so, that won’t work because the sine wave phases of this system are different than residential single phase. I see Hawaii offers 208 volt single phase to residential so maybe the Huum system is having issues with the lower voltage if that is the case.
Thank you! The instructions with this sauna were a nightmare this made life so easy
You are welcome. I know what you mean, I spent a long time looking for examples or other videos and everything was limited.
Your video and wiring details (in the comments section) helped me out. Thank you.
@guidojones100 glad to hear! I know there was limited info out there when I was building so I’m glad to contribute
Great video!
For strip lights... If I wire them into the module, will I still need a power supply outside of the module? For the strip lights I have looked at, they require a power source which specifies the amount of watts... Do you know?
The main module provides a switched 110v circuit so you hard wire the lights. Think of it like a light switch that already has power. Check the manual for the max power in watts, but if you are running strip lights that are LED then they will not need much current and are most likely under the max
First of all, fantastic video! Question for you... I bought the Huum Drop 6.0kW heater with the Uku Wifi control and I'm doing the wiring myself. Like a dummy, I ran 10/2 wire instead of 10/3 wire... Will the sauna heater + controller + temp sensor + door sensor work with the 10/2? Is it just light function that I'm sacrificing without 10/3?
I think you are ok and it is only for the lighting. The heater does not use the neutral and all the other parts (except lighting) just have low voltage wiring running to them. I assume low voltage because all the components connect with thin wires like use use for a door bell or old school hardwired phone
@@handyhomerepairs Thanks for the quick reply! Yeah, I'll call the manufacturer tomorrow to confirm but I hope you're right lol. REALLY don't want to re-run the 10/3... Thanks again!
This was a great video. Question: is the high temperature wire you used, copper or tinned copper? Does the ground have to be high temp as well or just 10awg bare copper? I blew my circuit breaker after hookup
@captainsgold9903 I’m not an electrician but I bought mine from a company called Wire & Cable Your Way. Search for High Temperature Wire. It’s stranded and says it works in wet or dry locations. Says nickel coated. It handles very high amps for the gauge because it has so many strands. Technically the ground should only be needed in an emergency but I was already installing the wire so I used the same for all 3 and made sure I could securely connect it to the frame.
Why not use a 20amp breaker for 4.5 KW ? I only ask because when I did the Converse it came out to 18.75 amps
For continuous load circuits you need to calculate the amperage at 125% because they want you to allow extra overhead to compensate for heat dissipation since the conductors will be carrying high load for long stretches of time. Check the local wiring codes since every municipality is different.
What kind of cable did you use between the control panel and the heater? I was told I will need a heat resistant cable, but couldn't find it except as a single conductor. Please share link if you purchased it online. Thank you
@jamalothmanRN I used standard cable run to the heater but terminated it in a weatherproof sealed box on the inside of the sauna. I assumed that there was no heat radiating through the wall, foil barrier, and insulation. But, from the junction box inside the sauna, I then splice to high temperature appliance wire. The run from the box to the heater was also inside high temperature sealed conduit. I’m sure someone else will correct me if I’m incorrect. This was the wire I used.
www.wireandcableyourway.com/12-awg-tggt-wire-high-temperature-wire-250-c-ul-5256-5196
HI mate great videos and sauna build. DO you have a photo or example of how you wired up the heater? did you just leave the earth off? Thanks.
@NonStopNeal I got ahead of myself and installed all the rocks and forgot to capture the wiring. It was basic 240 volt install though. There were 2 leads, one for each of the 120v legs. The ground was definitely installed with the screw to the frame since everything is metal, there is moisture, and people can easily touch. The circuit breaker is arc and ground fault. I read some places that sauna heaters can trip ground fault but we have used the sauna at least 30 times now and have never had an issue.
@@handyhomerepairs Thanks for this, I have the 6kw Drop. Looks like i need a 5 core wiring for mine.
Did you wire in a light to the huum control panel?
@user-bt2gv2qu3g no. I manually wired a light to an exterior switch. I didn’t want to have to control light via huum controller
I received an extra extension box. I did not see you connect one to your system. Is a extra one necessary? Extension box...
@tinafernandez2876 I didn’t get any with mine. The control panel for the temperature dial just surfaced mounted. The thermostat gauge also surface mounted. I added an outlet box for the wire connection for the door sensor just so I could adjust it if needed. The only box I received was the main unit for all of the wiring. The wiring for the heater element in the sauna required a waterproof box so I bought that myself as well along with all the water tight connections.
Does the HUUM come with a wiring diagram/instructions?
Yes. All the connections are labeled in the manual for the control box. Electrical wiring is basic, 2 hots, neutral, and ground into box (only need neutral if controlling lighting). 2 hots and ground out to the heater. I forgot to include in video because I got excited putting in the rocks but connecting the heater part was simple. The ground connected to the frame and the 2 hot 120 volt legs were connected to terminals. No electronics in the heater
@@handyhomerepairs What size wire did you use? 10/3?
@@marcjohnson6618 yep exactly. 30 amp breaker. Mine is 4.5 kw so the 19 amps is over the 80% calculation for a constant load on a 20 amp circuit.
Sounds good. Thanks for the info and the video. It’s the only one I’ve seen about installing a HUUM. Mine should be here in a couple weeks so this helps a lot.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful! HUUM's install manual is rather simplistic and doesn't really discuss the mounting of the wire/processor box. How did you mount it to the wall?
I had to mount to the inside of the exterior wall in the cabana. I just attached some 2x3 furring strips to the wall and some regular screws. It’s not heavy. The multiple pits of heavy gauge wire is secured underneath the box so everything has plenty of strength
Any issues woth the lighting circut? Installing and there is no power to the lighting circuit.
@blakeb4399 I did not use the lighting circuit from the control center. I wanted to control it with a regular switch / dimmer so I ran a separate line.
Did you run 4 conductors to the control center? The light needs the neutral white wire.
@@handyhomerepairs yes metered everything today I believe the control center is faulty contacting the company tomorrow
Figured you did it right. Just checking. It’s fairly simple, so sounds like control panel issue
@@handyhomerepairs the homeowner had to turn the circuit on in the app who would have thought.
Oh wow. That is strange. I don’t even have that option in my app.
Hi do you have any extra of the high temp conduit you'd be willing to sell? I am installing a 6kw Cliff and need a couple feet.
I don’t sorry. I sold what I had left on eBay. I bought mine on zoro. I searched around on several different sites and finally found there. Some electrical shops also had it but they were either commercial only or shipping was too much. I think I also had to wait a couple weeks for it to be in stock but finally got what I needed. This is what I ordered. Liquid-Tight Conduit,3/4 In x 25 ft,Gray
Thanks for the great video! Very helpful. I have the 9kW 50 amp breaker and am pretty lost on what wire to use from the main circuit breaker to the main module as well as from main module to the heater. Any advice? Thanks again for sharing!
@karahaskell your 50amp circuit breaker is correct for 9kw heater. 50 amp require 6 gauge wire (assuming you are in north America). You will want 6/3 for circuit breaker to control unit, which is 6 gauge with red (hot), black (hot), white (neutral), bare (ground). The 120v white is only needed for lights and some accessories but might as well run in case of future upgrades. The heater doesn't need neutral so you can continue the hot red/black and ground to the heater with 6/2 wire. All of the other connections (temperature, door sensor, remote, etc) are low voltage.
@@handyhomerepairs Thank you so much! Really enjoying your whole sauna series. Great information in a general void!
Thanks so much. It was great fun to build and I was in the same situation having to piece information together as I built or just guess sometimes if I couldn’t find help.
Excellent video. Can you advise of the name of the wire used from the junction box to the heater and where you were able to purchase it?
It is just basic wire you can get from large home center stores. Usually called NM or romex. The thickness or gauge of the wire depends on how much electricity the breaker allows. My heater is 6000 watt on a 30 amp breaker, so it needed 10 gauge wire. This is North America wire naming convention. The heater is 240 volt so it needs 2 electrical conductors and 1 ground. Its called 10/2 with ground (10 gauge, 2 conductor). It is behind the protector wall so didn’t need anything special. The wire runs into a water tight box. From that point to the heater required special wire that can handle high heat and not be affected by water. Inside the sauna it runs through a high temperature resistant and water tight conduit
@@handyhomerepairs What water tight box did you use? Having a hard time finding something at a big box.
@@col2007 my Huum came with that water tight box. You can buy similar ones on Amazon. If you look in the description of my other video “Stream Music Alexa Echo link…” there is a link to Outdoor protective box. That is what I use for outdoor to protect the Alexa. You can start there and find the size you need.
Can you just put a jumper on the door sensor and not install it?
@chrismarino9104 yes, I believe I saw one of the other commenters mentioned that they did that. I didn’t want the heater running with the door accidentally left open and heating the outer room or running constantly so I installed the sensor
You can skip door sensors. Just put a jumper wire.
I see. That makes sense. I have careless people in house (not naming names) that may leave door open with hearing running. Mine also was wifi control as well, so would be a bad combination with remote start
I’ve been waiting for a video like this! I just put together a barrel sauna and have the drop 6. I’ve been thinking how I’d do the door sensor and never thought about doing the jumper. I’m not worried about the door issue. This is great!
@@gonzo1274 Glad I could indirectly help lol
Haha, no your video helped way more then just the door. I’ve been looking for months for a video on the whole wiring setup. The jumper was just a bonus. Just one less thing to worry about since mine is outside.
@@gonzo1274 I know right? I spent forever searching for electrical help and it’s a dead zone. I spent weeks trying to figure the water and heat resistance conduit for the electrical. Finally found on eBay and had to buy 25 feet to use 2 lol
The wiring was completed in only a few hours. I already purchased the circuit breaker and wiring so it was ready once the Huum heater arrived. The high temperature conduit I had to order a few weeks in advance. It was difficult to find (at a reasonable price), so I had to order off eBay. It was still $150 U.S. and I only needed 2 feet. Conduit is Liquid-Tuff Hi-Low Temperature LFMC.
Do you think teck cable would have been sufficient?
@@livinglifeasa16handicapfor27 I'm not an electrician, so not sure. I read that you need a sealed box and the conduit also needs to be waterproof. In addition, since there are high temperatures you need a high temp conduit. Most of the conduit I looked at did not meet both of these conditions. I wanted to be as safe as possible since people, 240v, and wet conditions seemed like a risky situation
I cant turn it on if anyone has ideas im all ears. I tun the breaker on and I hear a click in the controler and thats it no display nada
@TCB2023. You turned it on so the control panel with LCD is working? If you hear the click, then the relay is engaged and there should be power to the heater. Check if you are getting voltage on the “output” to the heater and maybe one of the wires or ground is not connected on the heater element? Oh you said no display? The click should not occur until the request to turn on from controller is given. Check if you have both 120v wires connected and the ground. I don’t think the white/neutral is technically needed to power the until (according to them manual it’s only for auxiliary lighting)
@@handyhomerepairs No LCD display. Click happens when I turn on the breaker.
Its 208v. HUUM said it should still work just 20% less output. Haven't heard back from them other than that.
We're in Hawaii.
Appreciate your help
@@TCB2023. is this 208 volt 3-phase? If so, that won’t work because the sine wave phases of this system are different than residential single phase. I see Hawaii offers 208 volt single phase to residential so maybe the Huum system is having issues with the lower voltage if that is the case.
I have the same issue!!
Great Video!
Thank you. I could not find much information on here so I had to do a lot of searching and wanted to help put it together