About the pipe dope. The NPT thread that goes in carb. could have a little bit of sealent (not much) and not too tight. But the flair tube end must be install WITHOUT dope or Teflon tape. Une two wrench to ovoid breaking the carb. fitting in it while tightning the gas line.
If you use a fine salad paper you need it to be a bear steel then if you use hydrogen peroxide salt and vinegar put it in a spray bottle then spray the parts you want to rust when it gets to the amount of rust you want make sure you rinse it off with clean water. If you don't rinse it off with water it will keep resting intill nothing left
The breathable part is a drain, the carbs have a internal overflow if the float sticks and the gas will come out of that filter thing that's in the bottom...
@@billstmaxx probably not, gas would eventually dissolve the paint if it was laying in there tho I would think... but some paint thinner and a q tip and some elbow grease, would clean it up as well with as fresh as the paint is...
Unless you buy a bar that has been hardened the bar is always going to bend when you put stress on it. I suggest you use iron pipe, the appropriate size to make the crank. It's very hard to bend because of it's geometric shape and you can make the crank shape using pipe fittings.
going from 9/16 to 5/8 is not going to make one bit of a differnce tbh in my eyes it is only 1/16 bigger i would go as big as will fit just some friendly fyi!!
It seems to me that any meaningful comparison of an original vs. aftermarket carbs for interchangeability should consider a comparison of the precise diameters of the orifices' in the jets which you did not do. It doesn't matter that the needles may "look about the same" if their matching jet orifice don't correspond. If you intended your video to be comparison of new to old M/S carbs we don't need to have the majority of time wasted on that other crap that is off subject. Sorry, but that's the way I see it. Hope this helps with your next videos.
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [2/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qJbQs_nhjD4/mqdefault.jpg)
What brand is your aftermarket. I heard horror stories with float shutting off fuel when driving up hills.
About the pipe dope. The NPT thread that goes in carb. could have a little bit of sealent (not much) and not too tight. But the flair tube end must be install WITHOUT dope or Teflon tape. Une two wrench to ovoid breaking the carb. fitting in it while tightning the gas line.
I replaced mine and now I'm not getting gas to to cylinders and ideas what to do I can pull start it but it won't start by itself
If you use a fine salad paper you need it to be a bear steel then if you use hydrogen peroxide salt and vinegar put it in a spray bottle then spray the parts you want to rust when it gets to the amount of rust you want make sure you rinse it off with clean water. If you don't rinse it off with water it will keep resting intill nothing left
The breathable part is a drain, the carbs have a internal overflow if the float sticks and the gas will come out of that filter thing that's in the bottom...
so paint on that likely isn't a good idea
@@billstmaxx probably not, gas would eventually dissolve the paint if it was laying in there tho I would think... but some paint thinner and a q tip and some elbow grease, would clean it up as well with as fresh as the paint is...
@@upandadam9080 early version of that carburetor didn’t have that drain, and the gas would dissolve the rubber hose past the choke
Nice 9n your lucky to get the Sherman trans, a good project, I have been there, you won t have any problem.
Do you know what size the smaller drain plug on the bowl of the MS is? Is it a brass screw?
Unless you buy a bar that has been hardened the bar is always going to bend when you put stress on it. I suggest you use iron pipe, the appropriate size to make the crank. It's very hard to bend because of it's geometric shape and you can make the crank shape using pipe fittings.
The one I made for the 2n we use to have worked perfect. Just need the proper bar thickness
Lots of parts, well done Bill.....
Do you ever ask yourself (like I often do) what in the hell did I get myself into?
Oh boy. But when it runs good I’ll be happy
Bill you can get a crank on Amazon for between 45 to 75 US dollars and yes it is 5/8 rod diameter
You can get one from steiner for 30
I hoped to see what happened when you tried the new carb on the tractor. Did it work? Is there another video on that?
Hey bill, have you ever checked out all states ag parts, i but a lot of parts for my old massey ferguson 35
That carb from china looks really good.
Hopefully the plastic tube is back in the right way around, i wasn't sure about it.
it did seem to fit one way better than the other.. much different than the original
going from 9/16 to 5/8 is not going to make one bit of a differnce tbh in my eyes it is only 1/16 bigger i would go as big as will fit just some friendly fyi!!
The owner of this tractor should have paid you the $1000. to take it!
no kiddin
Turkeys in the bush at 35:17
It seems to me that any meaningful comparison of an original vs. aftermarket carbs for interchangeability should consider a comparison of the precise diameters of the orifices' in the jets which you did not do. It doesn't matter that the needles may "look about the same" if their matching jet orifice don't correspond. If you intended your video to be comparison of new to old M/S carbs we don't need to have the majority of time wasted on that other crap that is off subject. Sorry, but that's the way I see it. Hope this helps with your next videos.
Wow, a true Canadian wizard. You made a decent 5 minute video into a 45 minute nightmare! 👎🏼👎🏼👎🏼👎🏼👎🏼