Best tractor TH-camr on the platform, especially for the old Fords, and my second favorite Western PA old Ford tractor guy named Jason too! Another great video. ;)
@@Jason1Pa First thoughts. 8n stalls at low idle and won't start. Has all new wiring, plugs, coil, points and condenser, and carb. Sounds nice and quiet when running, but has a slight miss...then stalls out and doesn't want to start.
@jasonerb2577 When you say new carb is it actually brand new or a original one,just new to your tractor? If it's one of those new shiny ones you buy online I'm willing to bet that is your issue. They are known to run too lean and you can't get them adjusted properly. Some have messed with them and drilled out some passages inside and claim they got them to work better. These flat heads always seem to have a little pop to them at idle however even when running properly. Generally that pop goes away once you start to move or put a load on the engine.
@@Jason1Pa It came with a shiny new one. I had to replace it with a new shiny new one. The MS originals aren't easy to come by and are way too expensive if you can find one. I know it has a bad key switch. I've bypassed that to see if that was the issue, but it's still stalling on me.
@jasonerb2577 I wouldn't say they area hard to come by. Other tractors used them as well so there are a lot of them out there. Here are some trusted people you can contact that can probably help you with a fully refurbished one or a used one. Jim Hughes 812 789 6308 Email-- djhughes@nwcable.net Chris Keasler 864 908 6433 tractorman155@gmail.com Mike Smith (Smith Implement) racer5799@aol.com Unfortunately you don't have a good one to exchange to keep the cost down,but I'm willing to bet the carb is your issue.
Jason, I watched the 8N video when it first came out, it's good but I find you new series to be a leap forward in clarity and detail. IF you get a chance while doing part 6 , Please point out 8N tips like you have been. video and audio quality is really excellent.
Just FYI on the PTO shaft sizes: 1-1/8 inches and the other is 1-3/8 inches. There are also combo shafts that have both. (1-1/8 on one end and 1-3/8 on other end)
If the three point hitch sinks when I press in the clutch, does that mean the piston, that cylinder, and the rubber seals on that top assembly need to be replaced? When I let out the clutch on my 8N, the hitch rises goes back up again.
I know where a 2n is that is yard art I can buy for 200dollars and it smokes but runs and needs front tires. People are poor in Oklahoma and most have more trash than anything!😂
Good morning! I have a 9N, I have rebuilt the hydraulic assembly. Everything works great, the lift arms will raise fairly quick and will pick up anything. But when I hook up the third member or pull on it for that matter it slows down and almost stops and will hardly lift anything. I've tried adjusting it and it goes from one extreme to the other.. Do you have any ideas? Thanks!
Yes there is a plug right on the bottom of the pump. If your sitting on the tractor and look down it would be on the right front corner of the pump. Under the tractor.
I'm working on my 2N (1942) watched some of your videos. just went to look at part 6 and it is unavable now. I need to get into the spider gears. thanks
Moving rite along, looking good. I think I need to do some of the same with my 8N. It has all kinds of hydraulic issues and a wheel seals leaking. Looking forward to more in this series of videos!
Here in Canada , mineral oil GL1 is not available , i use GL5 80W90 on my early 8N . My hydraulics are pretty much worn out but your videos are a great help , and i hope to use them to rebuild the system one day .
Yes I have heard about that from other Canadians about the difficulty of getting the GL1. Actually the 80w-90 would be much better for you especially if you use the tractor and hydraulics in the winter. Thanks for watching!!
Wish you had a video on Sherman transmission. Just bought a good one. Had quite a time with shifter. Ball detent is really tight. Will try heavy grease. There must be seals in it that should be changed?? Otherwise it's just a job of work.
Jason just a comment, I have found it extremely helpful in reassembly to use dowel studs to align the gasket and hold it in place and to align covers such as the hydraulic assy. while lowering it in place. I just take low grade bolts cut the head off and chamfer the edge screw a few in depending on the job, using them as a guide, then install the original bolts in the remaining holes remove the studs (finger tight) and put in the original bolts and torque. This holds things in alignment while your are trying to fit other parts on the assembly, works for me! My dad bought one of the first 8N's back in the 40's and I have spent a lot of seat time on one. The 3 pt. hitch and the wide front end allowed us to do things bigger tractors couldn't do such as moving hog houses in a muddy feed lot. It's been awhile as I'm almost 80 yrs. old, but I hope this would be useful to you, working alone calls for ingenuity. Aloha ke Akua
Very clear and down to earth video, awesome series. I’ve been watching your series trying to learn about these tractors that I’ve never touched until now. I have an 8N that has a terrible leak between the top cover and the main casting right around where you pointed out the high pressure passage coming from the pump. I’ve tried to find information on how to test the pressure output to determine if the pressure relief is stuck thereby blowing out the gasket. Can you give me any guidance on this matter? Also, is there anywhere that I can download the manuals for this tractor? Thanks.
Thank you for the compliments! I would guess your gasket up top blew out simply because of age. Generally when a pressure relief valve is bad they leak and the result is no pressure. Why do you want to do a pressure test? Are you having other issues other then the leak? You can email me at jbeluschok@yahoo.com
Nicely done and coming along good! She'll be ready to brush hog soon enough! And to the oils our 3000 (dunno about the N series) has a split box to where both gear and rear end are two separate cases the front used to take gear oil and the back took hydraulic oil which was all fine an well but a long time ago the Ford dealer told my dad to just use the hydraulic oil in the gear case and so he did almost 20 years later and along of hours and work it has no issues. The hydraulic pump is getting weak though so when its cold it won't even think of lifting the arms till it warms up some. Its all in what you wanna run I guess though lol. Great video!
Just wanted to say thanks. I am in the middle of a complete engine overhaul on my 9n/2n and your videos are so helpful. I plan on rebuilding the hydraulics this sumer.
Just a quick question. I have a 47 2N I’m working on. The hydraulic system is pretty well wore out on it. It still works but needs entirely gone through. I was wondering if when I do it if I’d be further ahead to rebuild the lift cover and pump from an 8n and switching it over to the newer style to gain position control? Would anything else have to be changed?
Thanks! Great series. Looking forward to axle seals an brakes to help me do my 8N. Like to request that you call out specific seals, brake shoes, etc that have worked well for you.
Rick Olson Thanks for watching Rick. Unfortunately the brakes/seals on this 2N is completely different then your 8n. However here is a little slide show I put together of a 8n I did last year. th-cam.com/video/cgl5YKqNQM4/w-d-xo.html
Jason, I have a 9N (8N? IDK) with one of those hydraulic pumps on the front to run a loader. I had a sudden loss of hydraulic pressure and got off to check what was going on and the pump, pulley, fan belt etc. were not turning. Motor was running great. After some fiddling I concluded that the main pulley was no longer connected to the crank and was spinning separately. I am assuming that something has happened with the Woodruff key. After a day of fighting to get the hydraulic stuff apart, it appears that to get at the key on the pulley I have to remove the pulley and to do that I have to pull the entire front end of the tractor off. Is that correct? Thanks.
Joe Primal Yes front axle needs to come off and radiator. Naturally the hood/gas tank as well. Hopefully its just the pulley messed up and not the crank
Randy Stier I used a 10w 30 with a Lucas engine break in additives. After about 10 hours changed oil and filter and went with a 15w 40. I still and always use the Lucas break in additives with the zinc.
I watched all your ford videos it was very good. but I have 2 questions? one I seen wear the two washer type gaskets went on the hydraulic but were does the 3rd one go? And two I was running my 9n and with the back blade down .I started to back up and the blade wouldn't lift anymore. so I rebuilt it with new pump and hydraulic cylinder and piston .but it still will not lift I didn't see anything broken or cracked what can I check to fix it thanks
Hi Dan sorry to hear about your issues. I'm not sure if I'm following your first question. Are you taking about the 2 that go under the lift cylinder? If so there are only 2 used. Maybe you just got a extra in your kit? Second, generally a no lift situation could be a bad relief valve,control valve,linkage came undone from control valve or cracked tube that goes up to the top cover from the pump.
@@Jason1Pa ok I will be looking for leaks this next weekend .I put all new parts in the pump replaced and lubricated everything. ya the washer gaskets was the two under the lift cylinder .I had 3 so it threw me off. thank you for the advice what could be the problem. your videos are very good and helpful .keep up the good work.i appreciate your time for the videos and the help .
Leo Headbands Here is a link to part four of my video series th-cam.com/video/yijOYVlVQjQ/w-d-xo.html Got to about 8 minutes in to the video when I start talking about the pump. You will need to drop the pump out the bottom.
First I would like to say thanks for the in depth look at this tractor. I am trying to get the lift arm shaft out to replace the hydraulic lift Ram arm. I didn't catch how you got the shaft lose. I heard it was hard putting the sleeves back in and that you needed heat, is that the same process to get them out?
Justin Eskildsen Once the two lift arms on either side are removed the big shaft can be tapped out or pressed out. It shouldn't be too hard to get out. If there is any trouble it will be the two lift arms. Sometimes they get stuck on there pretty good. This particular tractor was easy getting the arms off
Jason1Pa getting the arms off was a chore, but I prevailed. I'm having trouble with the shaft. The large splines on the inside don't want to come through the (for lack of better knowledge) sleeve.
Justin Eskildsen This is where it gets hard. On one side you will need to take out the big bronz bushing in order to get the spines. Mine came right out with some heat ad tapping it may require a press to push on the shaft then when the spline makes contact with the bushing hopefully it will force it out of the housing. I didn't get to show in detail because of the struggle. In all honesty if you can track down another whole assembly you would be better off unless you want to keep it all original.
good afternoon I have a question hopefully you can help me I have a Ford tractor 8N will work and roll fine just today when I was trying to cut my yard the hydraulic don't want to drop all the way down it stays engaged up, but when I shut it down everything will back to normal and when I restart it and put the level to go down it will up and stay up well could be my problem I already changed the transmission gear oil that I got at Tractor Supply I thought I was going to help it but it didn't what should I do next please help
Hey good afternoon I wrote you before about my ford tractor 8 , I had trouble with the hydraulics staying up at all times when engaging down, I went ahead and rebuild my hydraulic pump assembly I used to it for 30 minutes everything will working fine and properly and when I tested it going up and down multiple times and everything was working properly so I'll start cutting my yard when finishing cutting my yard I return home and park the tractor and now my hydraulic pump stay engage up at all times even with the tractor off well could be my problem now can you please help me thank you
Leo Herndz I would half to lean towards a stuck control valve in the pump or possibly a stuck valve in the valve chambers (side of the pump) Did you have them apart? I have heard from others that a poorly adjusted top link spring could cause problems but since you said it was working I would probably rule that out.
Good afternoon thank you for the quick response how can you adjust topic spring and yes I took the valves apart and put on the new Springs and valve that came in my kit.. when rebuilding it do I have to adjust anything to specs and about the valve I put a new one in at came in with the kit... what's my chances of me getting a bad pressure release valve...
Leo Herndz To adjust the top spring you'll need to take off the top link bracket and spin the end piece to tighten or loosen. You don't want it too loose or too tight. As far as getting a faulty relief valve anything is possible with the cheap parts these days
Best tractor TH-camr on the platform, especially for the old Fords, and my second favorite Western PA old Ford tractor guy named Jason too! Another great video. ;)
@@jasonerb2577 🤣 Awesome Jason! Thank you for the kind words!
@@Jason1Pa First thoughts. 8n stalls at low idle and won't start. Has all new wiring, plugs, coil, points and condenser, and carb. Sounds nice and quiet when running, but has a slight miss...then stalls out and doesn't want to start.
@jasonerb2577 When you say new carb is it actually brand new or a original one,just new to your tractor? If it's one of those new shiny ones you buy online I'm willing to bet that is your issue. They are known to run too lean and you can't get them adjusted properly. Some have messed with them and drilled out some passages inside and claim they got them to work better.
These flat heads always seem to have a little pop to them at idle however even when running properly. Generally that pop goes away once you start to move or put a load on the engine.
@@Jason1Pa It came with a shiny new one. I had to replace it with a new shiny new one. The MS originals aren't easy to come by and are way too expensive if you can find one. I know it has a bad key switch. I've bypassed that to see if that was the issue, but it's still stalling on me.
@jasonerb2577 I wouldn't say they area hard to come by. Other tractors used them as well so there are a lot of them out there.
Here are some trusted people you can contact that can probably help you with a fully refurbished one or a used one.
Jim Hughes 812 789 6308
Email-- djhughes@nwcable.net
Chris Keasler 864 908 6433
tractorman155@gmail.com
Mike Smith (Smith Implement)
racer5799@aol.com
Unfortunately you don't have a good one to exchange to keep the cost down,but I'm willing to bet the carb is your issue.
Jason, I watched the 8N video when it first came out, it's good but I find you new series to be a leap forward in clarity and detail. IF you get a chance while doing part 6 , Please point out 8N tips like you have been. video and audio quality is really excellent.
Rick Olson Thanks!! Yes I sure will talk a out the 8N differences!
Just FYI on the PTO shaft sizes: 1-1/8 inches and the other is 1-3/8 inches. There are also combo shafts that have both. (1-1/8 on one end and 1-3/8 on other end)
antuan734 Yep! Thanks! My mind went blank when I was shooting the video
If the three point hitch sinks when I press in the clutch, does that mean the piston, that cylinder, and the rubber seals on that top assembly need to be replaced? When I let out the clutch on my 8N, the hitch rises goes back up again.
More then likely yes. And for what it's worth while you'd have it apart put a new relief valve in the pump just to be safe.
I thought all those pumps where aluminum?.. where'd you get a cast iron one?
I'm not sure exactly when they changed to aluminum but this one is a 1945. I also have a 1946 2N and it's aluminum.
The updated PTO shaft is 1-3/8"
I know where a 2n is that is yard art I can buy for 200dollars and it smokes but runs and needs front tires. People are poor in Oklahoma and most have more trash than anything!😂
Can't go wrong for 200 dollars!
Good morning! I have a 9N, I have rebuilt the hydraulic assembly. Everything works great, the lift arms will raise fairly quick and will pick up anything. But when I hook up the third member or pull on it for that matter it slows down and almost stops and will hardly lift anything. I've tried adjusting it and it goes from one extreme to the other.. Do you have any ideas? Thanks!
When you adjust it do you have at least 300 - 400 pounds hooked up the 3 point hitch. Its almost impossible to adjust it and not have weight on it
Excellent coverage on assembly and oild. Is there an external port plug where hyd system psi can be taken from??
Yes there is a plug right on the bottom of the pump. If your sitting on the tractor and look down it would be on the right front corner of the pump. Under the tractor.
How did you get the lift arms off? Mine are seized on .
Ben Cognito Fortunately they came off real easy with a few taps of a hammer. They can be difficult
I just finished watching all of your videos and I really enjoy them! Especially the repair series. Keep up the good work!
Thank You!! Glad you like them!! I have one more video to post on this series. Fell a little behind,but in a week or two should be done.
Thanks for the info. i hope to have it up and running next Sunday.
Thanks Jason. This is quite the good course for those if us with 2N s.
jerryf609 Glad your enjoying! One more video to go! Thanks for watching!
I'm working on my 2N (1942) watched some of your videos. just went to look at part 6 and it is unavable now. I need to get into the spider gears. thanks
I'm not sure why part 6 is unavailable for you? Things are working ok on this end.
Moving rite along, looking good. I think I need to do some of the same with my 8N. It has all kinds of hydraulic issues and a wheel seals leaking. Looking forward to more in this series of videos!
Here in Canada , mineral oil GL1 is not available , i use GL5 80W90 on my early 8N . My hydraulics are pretty much worn out but your videos are a great help , and i hope to use them to rebuild the system one day .
Yes I have heard about that from other Canadians about the difficulty of getting the GL1. Actually the 80w-90 would be much better for you especially if you use the tractor and hydraulics in the winter. Thanks for watching!!
Wish you had a video on Sherman transmission. Just bought a good one. Had quite a time with shifter. Ball detent is really tight. Will try heavy grease. There must be seals in it that should be changed?? Otherwise it's just a job of work.
Honestly never had one apart.
Jason just a comment, I have found it extremely helpful in reassembly to use dowel studs to align the gasket and hold it in place and to align covers such as the hydraulic assy. while lowering it in place. I just take low grade bolts cut the head off and chamfer the edge screw a few in depending on the job, using them as a guide, then install the original bolts in the remaining holes remove the studs (finger tight) and put in the original bolts and torque. This holds things in alignment while your are trying to fit other parts on the assembly, works for me! My dad bought one of the first 8N's back in the 40's and I have spent a lot of seat time on one. The 3 pt. hitch and the wide front end allowed us to do things bigger tractors couldn't do such as moving hog houses in a muddy feed lot. It's been awhile as I'm almost 80 yrs. old, but I hope this would be useful to you, working alone calls for ingenuity. Aloha ke Akua
Yep your right I use that trick from time to time! I just didn't on this video. Thanks for watching!
Very clear and down to earth video, awesome series. I’ve been watching your series trying to learn about these tractors that I’ve never touched until now. I have an 8N that has a terrible leak between the top cover and the main casting right around where you pointed out the high pressure passage coming from the pump. I’ve tried to find information on how to test the pressure output to determine if the pressure relief is stuck thereby blowing out the gasket. Can you give me any guidance on this matter? Also, is there anywhere that I can download the manuals for this tractor? Thanks.
Thank you for the compliments!
I would guess your gasket up top blew out simply because of age. Generally when a pressure relief valve is bad they leak and the result is no pressure.
Why do you want to do a pressure test? Are you having other issues other then the leak? You can email me at jbeluschok@yahoo.com
Nicely done and coming along good! She'll be ready to brush hog soon enough! And to the oils our 3000 (dunno about the N series) has a split box to where both gear and rear end are two separate cases the front used to take gear oil and the back took hydraulic oil which was all fine an well but a long time ago the Ford dealer told my dad to just use the hydraulic oil in the gear case and so he did almost 20 years later and along of hours and work it has no issues. The hydraulic pump is getting weak though so when its cold it won't even think of lifting the arms till it warms up some. Its all in what you wanna run I guess though lol. Great video!
Ford Farmer The N series has no chambers. Everything uses same oil..
Hi there, do you know if a 8n transmission will fit on an Naa golden jubilee?? Appreciate your input, if not, are the gears interchangeable??
I believe the transmissions are the same
Just wanted to say thanks. I am in the middle of a complete engine overhaul on my 9n/2n and your videos are so helpful. I plan on rebuilding the hydraulics this sumer.
Randy Stier Thats great!! Glad I could be of help. Good luck!
PTO housing the bearing in rear, how many PSI of torque?
Are you referring to the 4 bolts that hold the PTO in? There is no torque spec for it. Tighten it up good but no need to crazy tight.
Just a quick question. I have a 47 2N I’m working on. The hydraulic system is pretty well wore out on it. It still works but needs entirely gone through. I was wondering if when I do it if I’d be further ahead to rebuild the lift cover and pump from an 8n and switching it over to the newer style to gain position control? Would anything else have to be changed?
That is a option and yes you would need the whole top cover and pump from and 8N nothing else would need changed.
Jason1Pa thank you
Thanks! Great series. Looking forward to axle seals an brakes to help me do my 8N. Like to request that you call out specific seals, brake shoes, etc that have worked well for you.
Rick Olson Thanks for watching Rick. Unfortunately the brakes/seals on this 2N is completely different then your 8n. However here is a little slide show I put together of a 8n I did last year. th-cam.com/video/cgl5YKqNQM4/w-d-xo.html
Jason, I have a 9N (8N? IDK) with one of those hydraulic pumps on the front to run a loader. I had a sudden loss of hydraulic pressure and got off to check what was going on and the pump, pulley, fan belt etc. were not turning. Motor was running great. After some fiddling I concluded that the main pulley was no longer connected to the crank and was spinning separately. I am assuming that something has happened with the Woodruff key.
After a day of fighting to get the hydraulic stuff apart, it appears that to get at the key on the pulley I have to remove the pulley and to do that I have to pull the entire front end of the tractor off. Is that correct? Thanks.
Joe Primal Yes front axle needs to come off and radiator. Naturally the hood/gas tank as well. Hopefully its just the pulley messed up and not the crank
Thanks. I'll have to quit complaining and get into it. I have established that the screw that held the pulley on has snapped.
Joe Primal l
Jason, what motor oil did you use for breaking in the rebuilt 2n motor? Thanks Randy
Randy Stier I used a 10w 30 with a Lucas engine break in additives. After about 10 hours changed oil and filter and went with a 15w 40. I still and always use the Lucas break in additives with the zinc.
I pressed my sleeve on. Worked just fine.....
I watched all your ford videos it was very good. but I have 2 questions? one I seen wear the two washer type gaskets went on the hydraulic but were does the 3rd one go? And two I was running my 9n and with the back blade down .I started to back up and the blade wouldn't lift anymore. so I rebuilt it with new pump and hydraulic cylinder and piston .but it still will not lift I didn't see anything broken or cracked what can I check to fix it thanks
Hi Dan sorry to hear about your issues. I'm not sure if I'm following your first question. Are you taking about the 2 that go under the lift cylinder? If so there are only 2 used. Maybe you just got a extra in your kit?
Second, generally a no lift situation could be a bad relief valve,control valve,linkage came undone from control valve or cracked tube that goes up to the top cover from the pump.
@@Jason1Pa ok I will be looking for leaks this next weekend .I put all new parts in the pump replaced and lubricated everything. ya the washer gaskets was the two under the lift cylinder .I had 3 so it threw me off. thank you for the advice what could be the problem. your videos are very good and helpful .keep up the good work.i appreciate your time for the videos and the help .
@@danrhodes5968 Sounds good! Good luck. If you need anything feel free to ask
@@Jason1Pa thank you so very much
@@Jason1Pa 😊
Nice to see a young man with so much talent restore those tractor's.
Thanks for watching!
how do I fix that do I have to replace the pump assy????
Leo Headbands Here is a link to part four of my video series th-cam.com/video/yijOYVlVQjQ/w-d-xo.html Got to about 8 minutes in to the video when I start talking about the pump. You will need to drop the pump out the bottom.
First I would like to say thanks for the in depth look at this tractor. I am trying to get the lift arm shaft out to replace the hydraulic lift Ram arm. I didn't catch how you got the shaft lose. I heard it was hard putting the sleeves back in and that you needed heat, is that the same process to get them out?
Justin Eskildsen Once the two lift arms on either side are removed the big shaft can be tapped out or pressed out. It shouldn't be too hard to get out. If there is any trouble it will be the two lift arms. Sometimes they get stuck on there pretty good. This particular tractor was easy getting the arms off
Jason1Pa getting the arms off was a chore, but I prevailed. I'm having trouble with the shaft. The large splines on the inside don't want to come through the (for lack of better knowledge) sleeve.
Justin Eskildsen This is where it gets hard. On one side you will need to take out the big bronz bushing in order to get the spines. Mine came right out with some heat ad tapping it may require a press to push on the shaft then when the spline makes contact with the bushing hopefully it will force it out of the housing. I didn't get to show in detail because of the struggle. In all honesty if you can track down another whole assembly you would be better off unless you want to keep it all original.
Jason1Pa Thank you.
good afternoon I have a question hopefully you can help me I have a Ford tractor 8N will work and roll fine just today when I was trying to cut my yard the hydraulic don't want to drop all the way down it stays engaged up, but when I shut it down everything will back to normal and when I restart it and put the level to go down it will up and stay up well could be my problem I already changed the transmission gear oil that I got at Tractor Supply I thought I was going to help it but it didn't what should I do next please help
Leo Headbands Sounds to me you have a stuck valve in the valve chamber of your hydraulic pump.
Hey good afternoon I wrote you before about my ford tractor 8 , I had trouble with the hydraulics staying up at all times when engaging down, I went ahead and rebuild my hydraulic pump assembly I used to it for 30 minutes everything will working fine and properly and when I tested it going up and down multiple times and everything was working properly so I'll start cutting my yard when finishing cutting my yard I return home and park the tractor and now my hydraulic pump stay engage up at all times even with the tractor off well could be my problem now can you please help me thank you
Leo Herndz I would half to lean towards a stuck control valve in the pump or possibly a stuck valve in the valve chambers (side of the pump) Did you have them apart? I have heard from others that a poorly adjusted top link spring could cause problems but since you said it was working I would probably rule that out.
Good afternoon thank you for the quick response how can you adjust topic spring and yes I took the valves apart and put on the new Springs and valve that came in my kit.. when rebuilding it do I have to adjust anything to specs and about the valve I put a new one in at came in with the kit... what's my chances of me getting a bad pressure release valve...
Leo Herndz To adjust the top spring you'll need to take off the top link bracket and spin the end piece to tighten or loosen. You don't want it too loose or too tight. As far as getting a faulty relief valve anything is possible with the cheap parts these days
I like the way you do video. Thanks
Thanks!