One useful tip is place a mirror on the device you’re using to hold your negatives and use it to center the lens to the surface. Quicker than leveling the camera and leveling the light pad, etc
And take a picture of the mirror? Of your camera in the mirror? I don't get it. Presumably you're using a mirror for the reflection, but what are you reflecting, and how does a reflection help level a camera?
@@whothennow24 Basically you turn on the grid lines on the camera and you use them to center the lens. It’s much more accurate than placing a level on the camera etc. Does that make sense?
Please do your viewers and yourself a good service and take a look at the *_Essential Film Holder,_* Made in the UK but shipping worldwide for a flat rate. It's very budget friendly and more economical than the ohers (except for DIY). I was using an old beseler enlarger film holder over a LED light pad diffused with a piece of acrylic. Eventually bit the bullet and got me a decent copy stand and the EFH. Had the same setup as you and a Micro Nikkor 55/2.8 that has the flattest field of all macros I've tested. Dedicated the X-E4 that I wasn't using since getting the X-T4.
This is something I’m looking into as an alternative to my v600. Been having issues with it lately and it’s been frustrating. Thanks for the tips! Much appreciated
I have a very similar set-up with my A7ii, a Minolta macro lens, a 3d printed holder, etc. For now I'm just scanning b&w because it is easy to invert on lightroom. Would love to scan my color negative, but it is difficult to scan without something like Negative Lab Pro
Hi, would love to know if I buy Meike 35mm F1.7 for my Sony a6500 would you recommend that lens or another affordable one to scan 35mm film? Because I do not know much about camera lenses and I really what to know if that lens will be suitable for my camera. I have a couple of 35mm films but I did not use them because I do not how to really work with a film camera but I really love the feeling of trying to take a picture with an old film camera. But I have some old films rolls of family that I want to try scanning with the Sony a6500. Let me know!
You need a macro focusing lens. If the meike is a macro you should be fine but I don’t think it is. If you can’t focus at about 6 -8 inches away it won’t work. Shoot at 3.5-5.6 to make sure the negative is in full focus
@@graham_white I have owned a Europiccola for 5 years. After some initial difficulties, he never misses a beat. Brilliant machines in their simplicity!
@@rgrbrn for sure. Definitely took some initial figuring out but ya they are simple, look amazing, and give you better coffee than a lot of shops (if you know what your doing)
Hey Question if you would choose between pretty same set up to this and set up with epson v600 set up, what’s better in your opinion? I’m new to this and trying decide for set up I will start get into, thanks
is great and will be quick and easy. But your going to get more resolution and dynamic range out of dslr scanning. Just depends on how much detail you want. Epson is fine for a lot of uses.
If you enable "Film Simulations" on film scans... Sounds pretty sacrilegious. Anyway, the XTRANS micro filter hurts clarity of almost anything comes out of Fuji cameras. I personally wouldn't use it.
You wouldn’t use film simulations for scans or you wouldn’t use the Fuji for skins? The clarity part makes sense, I’m using the raw files though not the JPEG‘s so I’m pretty sure the film simulations aren’t applied to raw if I am not mistaken
My personal advice? Send your film to a professional lab and get your film developed and scanned by them. Quality photographs returned, and if not demand your money back. Film photography is enjoyable again since I ditched all the fighting, scrapping and stress with the development process. Just me mind, try it.
But they charge insane amounts, especially if you want a resolution that’s high enough to use anywhere other than instagram. If you shoot often enough, developing and scanning your own film saves thousands of dollars in the long run
ya I just want to make sure I get a setup that doesnt sag once camera weight is added and throws off level which is why ive debated a tripod head of some sort. rail is definitely the best option to keep it as close to the wall as possible, just haven't had time to research best setup for that.
A film scanner in range of a typical consumer will give you around 2400 usable dpi (though they claim much more) due to the scanner lens resolution, resulting in around 8 megapixels from 35mm. You can extract around double the megapixels from a decent macro digital camera setup on that same 35mm frame.
One useful tip is place a mirror on the device you’re using to hold your negatives and use it to center the lens to the surface. Quicker than leveling the camera and leveling the light pad, etc
And take a picture of the mirror? Of your camera in the mirror? I don't get it. Presumably you're using a mirror for the reflection, but what are you reflecting, and how does a reflection help level a camera?
@@whothennow24 Basically you turn on the grid lines on the camera and you use them to center the lens. It’s much more accurate than placing a level on the camera etc. Does that make sense?
Please do your viewers and yourself a good service and take a look at the *_Essential Film Holder,_* Made in the UK but shipping worldwide for a flat rate.
It's very budget friendly and more economical than the ohers (except for DIY). I was using an old beseler enlarger film holder over a LED light pad diffused with a piece of acrylic. Eventually bit the bullet and got me a decent copy stand and the EFH. Had the same setup as you and a Micro Nikkor 55/2.8 that has the flattest field of all macros I've tested. Dedicated the X-E4 that I wasn't using since getting the X-T4.
Just found your channel, such a nice vibe! Lighting is clean, your voice is calming and content is very educational.
thank you! appreciate it.
This is something I’m looking into as an alternative to my v600. Been having issues with it lately and it’s been frustrating. Thanks for the tips! Much appreciated
Anytime! Let me know if you have questions
Also for buying options, cheap and multi format, is the pixl-latr
True
Hello, which Fuji extension tube (mcex11 vs mcex 16) you would recommend on xf18-55 for negative scanning purpose, thank you.
I have a very similar set-up with my A7ii, a Minolta macro lens, a 3d printed holder, etc. For now I'm just scanning b&w because it is easy to invert on lightroom. Would love to scan my color negative, but it is difficult to scan without something like Negative Lab Pro
Nice! Ya if I didn’t have negative lab pro I wouldn’t be scanning color lol. A big learning curve converting that without help
Which Minolta lens are you using?
So essential!!
Would have loved to see the actual setup in this video. I can't visualize everything put together.
Thanks for the feedback! I’ll probably be going over my setup in more depth soon actually p
Hi, would love to know if I buy Meike 35mm F1.7 for my Sony a6500 would you recommend that lens or another affordable one to scan 35mm film? Because I do not know much about camera lenses and I really what to know if that lens will be suitable for my camera. I have a couple of 35mm films but I did not use them because I do not how to really work with a film camera but I really love the feeling of trying to take a picture with an old film camera. But I have some old films rolls of family that I want to try scanning with the Sony a6500. Let me know!
You need a macro focusing lens. If the meike is a macro you should be fine but I don’t think it is. If you can’t focus at about 6 -8 inches away it won’t work. Shoot at 3.5-5.6 to make sure the negative is in full focus
Ok thanks I going to look for other lens thanks for the feedback
@@wawifpv anytime!
Do you happen to have the link for the thingyverse files?
I don’t, but if you search film scanning or something along those lines you will get several solid options available for free download & print
what macro lens would you recommend and roughly how much would it be? i have around £109
The old Nikkor 55mm macros are solid options. Pricing varies based off condition and are. You can find them under your budget
La Pavoni!!!!
haha. completely rebuilt it. fantastic machines.
@@graham_white I have owned a Europiccola for 5 years. After some initial difficulties, he never misses a beat. Brilliant machines in their simplicity!
@@rgrbrn for sure. Definitely took some initial figuring out but ya they are simple, look amazing, and give you better coffee than a lot of shops (if you know what your doing)
Hey Question if you would choose between pretty same set up to this and set up with epson v600 set up, what’s better in your opinion?
I’m new to this and trying decide for set up I will start get into, thanks
is great and will be quick and easy. But your going to get more resolution and dynamic range out of dslr scanning. Just depends on how much detail you want. Epson is fine for a lot of uses.
Miss those thrifting videos? Is it getting harder to find cameras near where you live as well?
Struck out a lot until just this past month. Ya I think covid slowed the market down a lot
If you enable "Film Simulations" on film scans... Sounds pretty sacrilegious.
Anyway, the XTRANS micro filter hurts clarity of almost anything comes out of Fuji cameras. I personally wouldn't use it.
You wouldn’t use film simulations for scans or you wouldn’t use the Fuji for skins? The clarity part makes sense, I’m using the raw files though not the JPEG‘s so I’m pretty sure the film simulations aren’t applied to raw if I am not mistaken
My personal advice? Send your film to a professional lab and get your film developed and scanned by them. Quality photographs returned, and if not demand your money back. Film photography is enjoyable again since I ditched all the fighting, scrapping and stress with the development process. Just me mind, try it.
But they charge insane amounts, especially if you want a resolution that’s high enough to use anywhere other than instagram. If you shoot often enough, developing and scanning your own film saves thousands of dollars in the long run
put a rail on the wall ;)
ya I just want to make sure I get a setup that doesnt sag once camera weight is added and throws off level which is why ive debated a tripod head of some sort. rail is definitely the best option to keep it as close to the wall as possible, just haven't had time to research best setup for that.
The tripod are just to expensive smh and the copy stands it’s crazy
…?
Use a film scanner.
A film scanner in range of a typical consumer will give you around 2400 usable dpi (though they claim much more) due to the scanner lens resolution, resulting in around 8 megapixels from 35mm. You can extract around double the megapixels from a decent macro digital camera setup on that same 35mm frame.