Hey everyone, TH-cam deleted all of my comment replies because I moved my channel to a new account! If you have any questions leave me a new comment! And as always, if you want to support my channel... buymeacoffee.com/JohnStambaugh
I did a double take when i saw the pipe and the pipe flange on plywood. I've built something almost identical. And I use APS-C!! Finally a vid with something smaller than full frame digital.
I’ve been driving myself insane trying to get clean scans and this video has been a life saver. Going to give a lot of what you’ve suggested here a try! Thank you
hey mate , i couldn’t find a single video on youtube that shows the difference between doing a heavy color grading on fujifilm F log footage in H.265 10 bit and doing it on F log footage but this time shot with the atomos ninja V in pro res 422 ( i want to see if there is better dynamic range when pushing the shadows and the highlights , doing hsl on pro res vs h.265 and see if the selection is more precise , etc… ) . It would be awesome if you could do a video like that ! love your work by the way 🦾
The Raleno light is not only flat at the back (convenient) and quite affordable, but it also has very even lighting - much better than the Kaiser light often shown as a light source (CRI is fine, but uneven). Does it matter? Not for 135 and 120 film - but for 4x5! Your "copy stand" is genius, and I have most of the components already here (not the pipe and the floor flange, but everything else); much simpler than the old (travel) copy stand that I use, that is quite good, but has some quirks … thinking of it, I could use this clamp-construction on the rod of the copy stand for a start!
@@johnstamw Maybe this was a different video I was watching before or after yours, sorry. Hmm, maybe I should watch your video again to be sure … 😉 Nonetheless I edit my comment, because some TH-camrs do show the Kaiser light panels (I don't know how it is called correctly), and since I have one myself and had to find out where the problems with 4x5 scans came from, it is an important information (I think).
@@johnstamw I find the Skier Pro copy box also quite interesting, though a bit pricey. There is one variant that includes all masks, and I'm intrigued by the 4x5 option (but it does not show the border, and this is something I actually want; also my bad experience with light sources makes me maybe much more cautious than necessary ;-)). I know that 4x5 is a bit exotic, so I do understand that it is not looked at with the same scrutiny than 135 and 120 film.
You're losing dynamic range in the scan because you're using an expanded ISO. You'd be way better off setting the ISO to the X-T3s base native ISO which I looked up online to be 160, that way you get the most of your sensors dynamic range. You're also be able to bump up that shutter speed. Cheers!
Ah man, that’s a bummer, but I understand. Unfortunately TH-cam has forced us creators bc whether we allow ads or not they always have permission to put them on our videos :/
interesting, but my question is, if you shoot 120 film have you shot/scanned any 4x5" or larger sheet film formats?, and if so how have you delt with them, as far as scanners, setup.
My question is did you conciously choose the two hats in this video plus the wall decoration to match the color of the film as it slides through that light box? VERY MUCH ON POINT! Jokes aside this was the best and most thorough explanation of this process I've seen to date. Thanks for the effort you put in creating this! I am one step closer to finally making this happen for myself. Questoin: You said the local library offered free 3d printing in your town.. any other ideas of where one could get access to a 3d printer? I'm in Amsterdam, a big enough of a city, and I have the recipes of those film holders somewhere
haha! I wish I could say that was on purpose! Man, thank you for that encouragment, it means a lot! Hmmm I would honestly consider posting around on Reddit because it's highly probable someone in your city could help! Maybe try the AnalogCommunity or an amsterdam or 3d printing subreddit?? That would be a good start!
I’ve been using a flat bed the epson v800 for years now and I’m seriously considering making the switch. I feel that my 35mm scans are always a little soft
Flatbeds have their perks, especially higher end like the v800. but dude I've gotten some crazy detail and sharpness out of my 35mm with camera scanning, even with just the XT3 it's crazy!
This is an awesome video, great work and detail gone into it. You mention in the video about focus and focusing on the film itself rather than subject and focus on film leader, what do you mean by focusing on film leader?
thanks so much!! I mean to say that at the front of the roll before you get into the images I usually set my focus there because i find its difficult to focus on the film itself once there's an image in the frame. So I focus on the film using the leader where it's just blank.
Love this video! Super helpful. Can you see the notches of the film with the film holders this kit comes with? I want to use it mainly for focusing but also for some hipstery film scans haha.
thanks so much, sorry for my delay here, you can barely see the sprockets! not all of them. but I have a 3d printed mask if I want to have all the sprockets.
My question #1 is I can’t speak enough on the fact that you have swag (Stuff We All Get) And B.) any merch coming out soon? P.S. Can’t wait for the trumpets
I'm exploring the vintage macro lens options out there to scan. Also working on Fuji X system APCS Sensor. Do you think 105mm macro lens is to much zoom for this? it would be close to 150mm equiv. Most seem to be using 60mm macro lenses, hence why I ask.
@@johnstamw Thats what I figured. Going for the Super-Takumar Macro 50mm f4 most likely. Lastly, is 1:1 magnification needed for this to work or will 1:2 macro lenses be enough?
@@thorbergurk Use extension rings with 1:2 macro lenses, and you're fine. I tried an old 50 mm f2.8 Tessar (M42 for Praktica) with a helicoid adapter for Sony E-Mount on an A7, and it worked fine. So a helicoid adapter for Fuji X should do the trick. The 50 mm f4 Super-Takumar Macro sounds to be a good choice.
Thank you for this! Your explanation was very thorough and I knew there was a cheaper DIY solution out there for a copy stand! Debating whether I should sell my V700 and switch completely to camera scanning or keep it only for 4x5 and camera scan 35 and 120
If you need the flatbed scanner for 4x5 depends on the "scanning" camera you use. I use an Olympus Pen F with 80 MP pixel-shift hi-res mode and the 30 mm F4.5 macro, and I get the grain of a 4x5 Kodak Ektar 100 negativ showing up in the scan, even with a lot of room around the negative. So if you have around 60 MP+ at your disposal (like the hi-res mode of an E-M5II, or a Sony A7RIV etc.), you're fine with scanning 4x5. 40 MP might be a bit low on resolution for 4x5, but it would still suffice for huge prints (just not for pixel-peeping ;-)).
@@dmystify1381 Nope, not proven. I've done the math (using human vision and viewing distance), and yes, you can get away with 24 MP for most practical purposes. The moment you want to get (scan) the physical properties of film, things are different, and "size matters" with large negatives. That the scan data can be reduced later on is different to taking a picture on a sensor. For "everyday shooting" I would stick to 20-26 MP for practical reasons (the Pen F has a 20 MP sensor, and I'm fine with that).
Hey everyone, TH-cam deleted all of my comment replies because I moved my channel to a new account! If you have any questions leave me a new comment! And as always, if you want to support my channel... buymeacoffee.com/JohnStambaugh
I did a double take when i saw the pipe and the pipe flange on plywood. I've built something almost identical. And I use APS-C!! Finally a vid with something smaller than full frame digital.
hahaha that's awesome!! full frame is cool, but fuji does it for me just fine
I’ve been driving myself insane trying to get clean scans and this video has been a life saver. Going to give a lot of what you’ve suggested here a try! Thank you
I'm so glad to hear that I was able to help you out!
you’re the best, man. keep up the solid work. and thanks for all of your help!
Dude!! You're the best!! I'm so glad to help! I need to get the editing part of this series recorded so I can get it out soon!
Amazing video
hey mate , i couldn’t find a single video on youtube that shows the difference between doing a heavy color grading on fujifilm F log footage in H.265 10 bit and doing it on F log footage but this time shot with the atomos ninja V in pro res 422 ( i want to see if there is better dynamic range when pushing the shadows and the highlights , doing hsl on pro res vs h.265 and see if the selection is more precise , etc… ) . It would be awesome if you could do a video like that ! love your work by the way 🦾
great info thanks, how do you know which side is the emultion side?
Love your tutorials!
Hi Thanks for sharing your setup, It really helped me. How did you adjust the WB on your camera?
hello! I just use the WB presets.
Hi, Can I use the Manfrotto clamped universal mount for my Nikon on a copy stand. Have diy stand, just need info on mounting camera.
The Raleno light is not only flat at the back (convenient) and quite affordable, but it also has very even lighting - much better than the Kaiser light often shown as a light source (CRI is fine, but uneven). Does it matter? Not for 135 and 120 film - but for 4x5! Your "copy stand" is genius, and I have most of the components already here (not the pipe and the floor flange, but everything else); much simpler than the old (travel) copy stand that I use, that is quite good, but has some quirks … thinking of it, I could use this clamp-construction on the rod of the copy stand for a start!
Not sure that I showed a kaiser light, but hope the clamp design helps.
@@johnstamw Maybe this was a different video I was watching before or after yours, sorry. Hmm, maybe I should watch your video again to be sure … 😉 Nonetheless I edit my comment, because some TH-camrs do show the Kaiser light panels (I don't know how it is called correctly), and since I have one myself and had to find out where the problems with 4x5 scans came from, it is an important information (I think).
well thanks for the contribution of important info!@@c.augustin
@@johnstamw I find the Skier Pro copy box also quite interesting, though a bit pricey. There is one variant that includes all masks, and I'm intrigued by the 4x5 option (but it does not show the border, and this is something I actually want; also my bad experience with light sources makes me maybe much more cautious than necessary ;-)). I know that 4x5 is a bit exotic, so I do understand that it is not looked at with the same scrutiny than 135 and 120 film.
How do you level the thing with a mirror?
there are a couple of youtube videos and reddit posts out there about this!
"Cleaning the sensor", do you mean the camera's cleaning cycle or a physical cleaning of the sensor?
at times a physical cleaning of the sensor may be necessary sadly.
You're losing dynamic range in the scan because you're using an expanded ISO. You'd be way better off setting the ISO to the X-T3s base native ISO which I looked up online to be 160, that way you get the most of your sensors dynamic range. You're also be able to bump up that shutter speed. Cheers!
Yeah I technically am, but I'm just not that concerned about it for my use case!
I stopped watching in 6 seconds because of the obnoxious TH-cam ad video.
Ah man, that’s a bummer, but I understand. Unfortunately TH-cam has forced us creators bc whether we allow ads or not they always have permission to put them on our videos :/
It took the creator hours to record and edit. Quit complaining or get premium lol Even TH-camrs & creators need to eat.
@DreamlandCinema you’re a real one.
Thanks for Posting this information is very Useful.
interesting, but my question is, if you shoot 120 film have you shot/scanned any 4x5" or larger sheet film formats?, and if so how have you delt with them, as far as scanners, setup.
My question is did you conciously choose the two hats in this video plus the wall decoration to match the color of the film as it slides through that light box? VERY MUCH ON POINT!
Jokes aside this was the best and most thorough explanation of this process I've seen to date.
Thanks for the effort you put in creating this! I am one step closer to finally making this happen for myself.
Questoin: You said the local library offered free 3d printing in your town.. any other ideas of where one could get access to a 3d printer?
I'm in Amsterdam, a big enough of a city, and I have the recipes of those film holders somewhere
haha! I wish I could say that was on purpose! Man, thank you for that encouragment, it means a lot! Hmmm I would honestly consider posting around on Reddit because it's highly probable someone in your city could help! Maybe try the AnalogCommunity or an amsterdam or 3d printing subreddit?? That would be a good start!
I’ve been using a flat bed the epson v800 for years now and I’m seriously considering making the switch. I feel that my 35mm scans are always a little soft
Flatbeds have their perks, especially higher end like the v800. but dude I've gotten some crazy detail and sharpness out of my 35mm with camera scanning, even with just the XT3 it's crazy!
This is an awesome video, great work and detail gone into it. You mention in the video about focus and focusing on the film itself rather than subject and focus on film leader, what do you mean by focusing on film leader?
thanks so much!! I mean to say that at the front of the roll before you get into the images I usually set my focus there because i find its difficult to focus on the film itself once there's an image in the frame. So I focus on the film using the leader where it's just blank.
Love this video! Super helpful. Can you see the notches of the film with the film holders this kit comes with? I want to use it mainly for focusing but also for some hipstery film scans haha.
thanks so much, sorry for my delay here, you can barely see the sprockets! not all of them. but I have a 3d printed mask if I want to have all the sprockets.
Also where’s the next video in this series?! Thanks again
unfortunately I got busy and never made my next video.
nooooooooooo@@johnstamw
John, This video really helped me out. Thanks.
so glad to hear that, thanks for the comment!!
My question #1 is I can’t speak enough on the fact that you have swag (Stuff We All Get)
And B.) any merch coming out soon?
P.S. Can’t wait for the trumpets
How did you comment on here and when did you make your own account
I was going to comment lollll
I'm exploring the vintage macro lens options out there to scan. Also working on Fuji X system APCS Sensor.
Do you think 105mm macro lens is to much zoom for this? it would be close to 150mm equiv.
Most seem to be using 60mm macro lenses, hence why I ask.
I could envision 105mm being a little bit tight, so maybe closer to 60 is better?
@@johnstamw Thats what I figured.
Going for the Super-Takumar Macro 50mm f4 most likely.
Lastly, is 1:1 magnification needed for this to work or will 1:2 macro lenses be enough?
@@thorbergurk Use extension rings with 1:2 macro lenses, and you're fine. I tried an old 50 mm f2.8 Tessar (M42 for Praktica) with a helicoid adapter for Sony E-Mount on an A7, and it worked fine. So a helicoid adapter for Fuji X should do the trick. The 50 mm f4 Super-Takumar Macro sounds to be a good choice.
Thank you for this! Your explanation was very thorough and I knew there was a cheaper DIY solution out there for a copy stand! Debating whether I should sell my V700 and switch completely to camera scanning or keep it only for 4x5 and camera scan 35 and 120
If you need the flatbed scanner for 4x5 depends on the "scanning" camera you use. I use an Olympus Pen F with 80 MP pixel-shift hi-res mode and the 30 mm F4.5 macro, and I get the grain of a 4x5 Kodak Ektar 100 negativ showing up in the scan, even with a lot of room around the negative. So if you have around 60 MP+ at your disposal (like the hi-res mode of an E-M5II, or a Sony A7RIV etc.), you're fine with scanning 4x5. 40 MP might be a bit low on resolution for 4x5, but it would still suffice for huge prints (just not for pixel-peeping ;-)).
@@c.augustin its been proven,yes proven...24mp is more than enough.
@@dmystify1381 Nope, not proven. I've done the math (using human vision and viewing distance), and yes, you can get away with 24 MP for most practical purposes. The moment you want to get (scan) the physical properties of film, things are different, and "size matters" with large negatives. That the scan data can be reduced later on is different to taking a picture on a sensor. For "everyday shooting" I would stick to 20-26 MP for practical reasons (the Pen F has a 20 MP sensor, and I'm fine with that).
What is name of the song please?