All You Need To Know About FILM SCANNING With A Digital Camera. Beginner Friendly
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มิ.ย. 2024
- FILM Pastel Colors with EVERY Color Negative Film // Pt.2 Scanning Tutorial
Want to see my wedding work? : www.herrundfraunolle.de/
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-----------My Gear------------
Camera:
Fujifilm X-S10
Light:
Dörr LT-2020 (CRI90 7,2W 79€)
Recommended:
Raleno PLV-S104 (CRI95 12W 49€)
Negative Supply 4x5 Light Source (CRI95 ?W 179$)
Film Holder:
Valoi 35mm film Holder
Valoi 120 Film Holder + masks
Valoi Advancer
Tripod:
Rollei C6i carbon (no gallows)
Manfrotto 290dual with ball head (heavy)
Lens:
7artisans 60mm f2.8 macro 1:1 mark I (APS-C)
------Negative supply suggestions-------
Canon rebel + Canon 40-60mm macro lens
Sony A6100 +Tamron 60mm F2.8
Canon 5D MKII or Nikon D800 + Sigma Art 70mm Macro
Canon 77D +Canon 60mm EFS
Nikon D7200 + Nikon 60mm AFS
• 35mm Film Scanning Basics
-------Video Gear ----------
Camera: Fujifilm X-S10
Lens: Fujinon XF 23mm f2
Micro: Hollyland Lark 150
Music
Epidemic
0:00 funny intro
0:47 hello
1:38 gear you need
8:48 scanning process
12:23 camera settings
15:17 medium format scanning
16:00 outro - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
thanks for watching.🙌 If you have any questions then post them in the comments.
This is super thorough - very well done! I applaud you!
- VALOI Co-founder
(can confirm that we had no say in what or how anything was said in this video)
thank you for the support and positive feedback. My workflow is really a lot better now. 😄
The easiest way to get everything aligned is to use a small mirror. Just place it on top of the film holder and move the camera so that you see the center of the lens through your viewfinder/LCD screen.
I have also seen this before. Isn't this just an intermediate step that can be skipped because in the end neither height nor framing are correct? This is not meant to be a criticism I just haven't tried it myself yet. 😄
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel You adjust the height and framing and after that, you put the mirror on top of the film holder/film and do the fine-tuning (skipping altogether the fiddling with levelers). This way it doesn't matter if, for instance, your table is a bit wonky.
This is what I have been waiting for! ✨✨
Thanks, good to hear!
Absolutely the best guide to this process I’ve seen - thank you
you're welcome. har also took a long time until I had finished the whole tutorial. :D
Excellent video. You simplified the entire scanning process. I went the Valoi route for my film holder. Very modular so you buy only what you need.
Thanks for the compliment! I'm glad you found the video helpful in simplifying the scanning process. The Valoi route sounds like a great option, especially if it offers modularity and allows you to customize your film holder according to your needs.
This is a super thorough tutorial on digitally scanning film! The Valoi film holder looks super solid and easy to use! Definitely cuts scanning time by a lot and increases the enjoyment of scanning infinitely 😂
yes i may have gone a little overboard with praise (a little lol) but my god if you had to scan with the cucumber i had before you would say the same thing. 😅
I absolutely love your video. Clearly and accurately presented ! Thanks !
Love to hear that, thanks for the support!
Thanks so much for this man! So incredibly informative 🙏 this makes me want to start using my XT4 for scanning! Thanks for all those cheap macro recommendations as well. I am so tempted 😂
thank you brendon. :D oh you have a xt-4? then you could really try! I bet with riser you come if you are really fast certainly under 5min per roll 😄
Such a clear video, thank you!!!
you're welcome.
Very good tutorial, thank you!!
You're welcome. 😄
Great intro !!!! Your instruction set was excellent and appreciated.
Thanks for your kind words! I try to make my videos as clear and easy-to-follow as possible, so it's great to hear that my instruction set was well-received. And of course, I always aim to start things off with a bang, so I'm glad you enjoyed the intro!
Your content is excellent and I have learned a lot.
you're welcome, glad I could help.
Very helpful. Thanks for sharing.👍
Thank you, too kind. 😀
Very helpful! Thank you brotha!
you're welcome. :D thanks for watching.
Really great video dude! I think eventually I’m going to switch to a Mirrorless scanning setup. My Epson doesn’t impress me for 35mm most of the time
oh hey thanks to you reimann :D try it out you will be surprised how much time it saves you compared to a scanner. You already have the right camera. If you now get the sigma 70mm macro you have a perfect base. 😀
This is the best digital scanning video I've come across, and I've watched too many. 😅 Thank you!!!
Nice to hear. Honestly, I also watched way too many at the beginning. 😄
solid advice. well done.
thank you very much. ✌️
This is an EXCELLENT series. Just wish you produced more videos - love your style and presenting skills.
I am using the essential film holder with a 2nd hand kaiser copy stand with good success at a MUCH cheaper price than the valoi - although I am major lusting after the film advancer!!
Thank you, yes it comes out at least one more video :D
The essential filmhodler is really good but in principle also only the standard module of the valoi. Which is then in any case in euro almost three times the price for 35mm. The advancer is expensive but also a real relief. :D
Great video, thank you! Im buying gear to complete the dslr set up and its been very intimidating. This made it a little less scary for me
I'm glad that I could help to unravel the issue for you. ✌️
Cant wait to see the editing video🌚♥️
am already on it and will also not take as long as the scan video. ✌️
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Great tutorial series, so detailed, love it!👌🏻
very good!
thank you. :D
One option that you missed for lenses that I personally like best of all is to use an M39 mount enlarger lens and either a focusing helicoid or macro bellows. They're really fantastic lenses with a super flat field of focus and they're *stupid* cheap. I'd expect £30-80 for a relatively modern Nikkor, Schneider or Rodenstock 50mm, and probably less than £100 for an 80mm. Even better, you can often get them included with 35mm enlargers that can also be used as copy stands. The Naked Photographer did a pretty dry but *very* good comparison a while back of his enlarger lens against the other options you went through here that's well worth checking out as it honestly wipes the floor with all of them, even the macro lens!
Wow, I had no idea that enlarger lenses could be used for photography as well. Thanks for bringing this to my attention! It's always great to have more options for lenses, especially if they're affordable. I'll definitely look into getting my hands on one of these M39 mount lenses.
Awesome channel and video. Subbed w/ bell.
thank you very much! 😄
Could it be? The video I've been waiting for?
......of course!
Even me!
About the emulsion, I heard you want to shoot with the emulsion side up because it makes the scans a lot more sharper.
As Valoi assured me, it is only a myth. If you focus properly, it's exactly the same from both sides.
Great video, thanks for sharing. Ready to ditch my current film holder :) one question: what do you use for cutting film strips? I find using scissors quite tricky when cutting 35mm film. Already cut off small portions of my images :(
thanks to you, I have previously used a paper scalpel with white base and ruler but that was too cumbersome for me. now I use a small pair of scissors with which you can see neatly where you cut. :D But you have to be careful.
Finally my Epson scanner can retire. thank you.
Haha ,yeah no more waiting time! :D
Thanx for the Video. I switched to Valoi too and using a Kaiser Slimlite Lightsource (CRI95) with a Coypstand. I always set the ISO to 100 and a F10 on my macrolens. The Problem is the weak light of the Kaiser Slimlight, so i got exposure times from 1s up to 2s. So I am looking for a stronger light source with a good CRI. Can you recommend anything here? Maybe the Raleno PVL-S192 could be a good alternative, because it has 19,5 watts, against the Kaiser Slimlite with only 3,6 watts.
my pleasure. the PVL-S192 would of course also go is only quite large but has more power than the PLV-S104 with 11Watt. You would only have to watch that the LEDs do not have two different color values as described in the video.
I also think F10 is set relatively high. You can try whether a lower aperture value also works. 😄
I made a light box using a "REALLY USEFUL BOX" branded plastic box that I filled with Foil tape with 216 full diffusion gel double sided taped on top of that and stuck 2 speedlights inside. I put the diffusion material on top without foil tape to let light pass through and use two 4x6 pieces of glass to hold the film.
Sounds like a really cool setup you've built there. 👌 A speedlight is always a good choice for this.
Sehr gut erklärt. Ich nutze, anstatt eines Fernauslösers, die Tetheringsoftware meines Kameraherstellers, so dass die RAW‘s direkt auf den Rechner kopiert werden. Dort überwacht Adobe Bridge den Ordner. Bin ich mit dem Film fertig, öffne ich alle RAW‘s gleichzeitig in Bridge mit dem RAW-Converter, wähle im Converter alle aus, setze den Weißabgleich und mache den Crop. Wichtig dafür ist natürlich, dass die Negative alle (nahezu) gleich abfotografiert wurden. Danach ziehe ich alle per Drag & Drop nach Lightroom, importiere sie und öffne Negative Lab Pro, usw.. Meine Kamera unterstützt den High-Res Modus (Olympus), welchen ich auch nutze. Somit bekomme ich immer 80MPx Dateien. Egal ob Kleinbild oder Mittelformat.
Das ist natürlich auch einer wirklich guter Workflow. 👌 Ich hatte das mit Tethering mit meiner Fuji auch mal versucht aber dort muss man ständig den USB Modus wechseln. Da hat Fuji noch einiges nachzuholen. 80MP immer zu Hand zu haben ist auch ein echt guter Vorteil.
Bravo!!! Where would I look for info on scanning SLIDES? I have several hundreds of my long past father's slides that I would like to scan for the family.
In principle, you can scan slides in the same way. Valoi also has an attachment designed specifically for such slides, allowing you to quickly digitize all the family photos. ✌️
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel ❤
Thanks for the cool video! I'm waiting for the Lomo Digitaliza and I'm scared now :D but I really need the sprockets to be scanned. Any advice on that? Any better solution from Valoi that I could use that would be better than Lomo?
Yes indeed Lomo have later still released the digitaliza max. This is similar to Valoi and also has a push through system like Valoi and you can still see the sprockets.
th-cam.com/video/o1CCinMbA3I/w-d-xo.html
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Thank you!
Can I use the XF1855 or Sigma 1850 to scan film? Planning to get those, would be great if I can use them to scan too.
Even though both are good lenses they are unfortunately not macro lenses. You would only be able to fill a small part of your frame with them. I would still advise you to use a cheap macro lens or a macro adapter ring to start with.
... or you can buy a dedicated film scanner. Those things are expensive, can't be had new, but you do get what you pay for.
I have a Nikon CS5000 (135 format only) and a Nikon CS9000 scanners. Both are about as automated as it is possible. Both have autofocus and IR dust removal. The dust removal in particular saves a lot of time, even for film developed at home and with utmost care for dust control.
The CS5000 is interesting. A small modification with the default powered film feeder will let it scan an entire roll of 135 at once. I used to routinely set it up with a 38 frame roll and come back to 38 beautifully digitized after lunch.
If you shoot a lot of film (and have money burning a hole in your pocket, have the time and inclination to screw around with older equipment) then I can wholeheartedly recommend both.
The stimtm scanners are of course also a very good option especially for medium and large format.
I looked on ebay CS500 is available for 2000€ and CS9000 for 3500-4000€. Think that is for most outside of the justifiable.
Another problem is certainly also that the required operating systems for the software certainly still based on Windows XP times or older.
Kyle Mc Dougall even had a comparison video of his CS9000 and a GFX medium format camera. They were on par.
So even if the old scanners are really good, I think the future of film scanning is going to be in camera scan.
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel A couple of i observations from my previous quick experiments with digicam film scanning.
If the camera has pixel shift high-resolution mode that can really benefit 120 scans. That'll pick up all the details that are there on film.
Have you tried using strobes for lighting? You'll need the strobe behind a diffuser but it makes the process insensitive to ambient light conditions. The light spectral quality is (by design) good too.
Also, getting the scan plane entirely orthogonal to the lens and dealing with bowed film is painful. Focus stacking can work if your camera can support that natively.
The emulsion side of the film must always be facing the sensor. You want to take a picture of the emulsion directly, not through the transparent film base that can have dust or scratches. In all the professionnal printing machines I used in photo labs, the emulsion side of the film was always facing the emulsion of the photo paper. You have to flip the image later with any software. This can be automated and it only takes only a few seconds for an entire roll of film.
oh hey, the information is only forwarded by valoi.
Hi, would love to know if I buy Meike 35mm F1.7 for my Sony a6500 would you recommend that lens or another affordable one to scan 35mm film? Because I do not know much about camera lenses and I really what to know if that lens will be suitable for my camera. I have a couple of 35mm films but I did not use them because I do not how to really work with a film camera but I really love the feeling of trying to take a picture with an old film camera. But I have some old films rolls of family that I want to try scanning with the Sony a6500. Let me know!
ah hey, with the 6500 you already have a beast of a camera. however, the meike is unfortunately not the right one since it is not a macro lens. However, there are lenses from 7 artisans that are perfect for this.
to mean the 60mm 2.8 which I also have alelrdings please be careful that you buy it for sony -e mount. so you have at least a perfect lens to start.
Oh thanks I will make sure I buy the right one
Are there 4x5 masks/holders?
unfortunately no, but 4x5 is also relatively large to be scanned flat. I think a normal flatbed scanner is still the most suitable.
What would you recommend more between the 7artisans 60 mm or the Fuji 60 mm, besides the prices differences?
The 7 Artisans has 2:1 magnification, the Fuji 1:1, which means you don't get the entire negative on the image. However, you have autofocus and the result itself is sharper. I wanted to buy the fuji 60mm myself but haven't found a good deal yet.
i thought the fuji 60mm was not 1:1 , but rathaer 1:2@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel
@@d0rifto1 7artisans.store/products/60mm-f2-8
official site says 1:1 🤷♂
Stupid question: do I need to do anything to the film before digitising it or I can just open the film roll and start processing it?
After you have shot the rolel i nder the camera you have to develop them afterwards or have them developed. If you open the film just like that, there is nothing on the film because everything is exposed. that is not good. :D
so the order is:
shoot film - develop - scan
Dang, awesome, number of views doesn't do it justice, it might be just the most random place to ask but here goes.... i have some (a lot) films spanning 5 decades of family photography, prints...gonners, i tried to find a lab that would do decent scans in my general area/country (Poland) to no avail, i was looking into V600 scanner but ....it's like all slightly out of focus, my last choice ....camera film scanning..... and here goes the question proper, just about the only camera in my range is EOS M50 mk 2.... how big of a mistake it would be, and is there any lens that makes it "an ok choice", ok not really a choice mole along the lines that's all i can put in the project. I would appreciate a nudge in general direction.
Oh, no, that's not a mistake at all. The M50 is even a bit too much. The camera doesn't have that much influence on the final quality. You'd better get a macro lens. I can't tell you which lens is good for M-mount. Probably one of the EF-S series with adapter.
You would have to ask again in the Negative Lab Pro facebook group. They can certainly help you better.
At least I can say that your results with macro lens will be better than with V600. 👌
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Much appreciated, V600 is kind of great for prints, at quite noticeable 1/3 price of a V850.... but scanning negatives in the true archival sense.....that was disappointing...ideally i'd just order scanning on Fuji sp3000 and go from there, as it turns out, can''t find any lab with that setup in Poland.... Valoi recommends sigma 70mm/canon 60mm f2.8 macro, again thank You for Your work and I appreciate You took the time to reply.
Why is the photo frame behind you empty?
I actually wanted to make a video about it since this isn't even the only empty frame here in my apartment. I have real problems to choose pictures of me or other artists to hang them on my wall.
Ich scanne mit einem rosin v370 und die Resultate sind echt, naja.. habe zuhause leider nur eine alte Nikon d5000, meinst du es würde sich lohnen, damit zu digitalisieren? Ich müsste ja das ganze gear dafür kaufen.
Wenn du alles was du brauchst gebraucht kaufst dann hast du ja am ende falls du es nicht mehr benutzen solltest immer noch die Möglichkeit alles zu verkaufen. Die D5000 reicht eigentlich aus mit dem richtigen objektiv. Problem ist nur das du unter umständen Software brauchst. Allerdings werde ich das alles im nächsten Video vorstellen. Vielleicht hilft dir das dann die richtige Entscheidung zu treffen.
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Danke🙏🏽 also schlechter als die V370 kann es gar nicht sein denke ich. Falls du mit Software negative lab pro und Lightroom classic meins, die habe ich bereits schon :). Ich bin aber dennoch auf dein Video gespannt. Könntest du für die Nikon D5000 ein relativ günstiges Makro Objektiv empfehlen?
Is this less complicated and/or less expensive than simply having a darkroom and doing it all "analogue"
Since I don't have my own darkroom, I can't give you exact figures, but I think that the analog way is expensive just because of the constantly recurring costs of paper and chemistry.
However, if you print a lot, it might be worth it if you don't need digital images of your negatives.
I hope this answer helps you in some way.
Camera's colour science should have little to no effect on the scans. Almost all of the camera's "look" is baked into the camera profile that is used to interpret the RAW data. But Negative Lab Pro applies its own custom camera profile when converting, so manufacturer's profile will have no effect.
Okay, I expressed that incorrectly. It's not the camera's interpretation but the raw interpretation in Lightroom that influences the raw image and, consequently, the negative. However, NLP naturally has the most significant impact on the negative.
Way toooooooooooooooomuch huslte BUY a scanner!!!!
Of course you can also use a scanner, especially if you already have one. :D
But if you don't have one it is:
-billger(if you have a suitable camera)
-higher image quality (if you don't have an Epson V850)
-you don't need 5min to scan a picture but only 1/125 sec. :D
Good video, except:
- Emulsion TOWARDS camera, not down. For flat scanners emulsion down, but in this setup emulsion UP. You don't want to photograph scratches and water stains of a film base.
- White balance. For BW doesn't matter. For color film should be set to the color temperature of your light source. Measure it, create a preset, and use it for scanning. It will save time during processing, and will eliminate the confusion.
- +1 exposure. Subjective. You didn't mentioned anything about DOF, aperture settings, what metering mode (spot, average) was used. So this part is not covered at all. Normally, exposure should be set once for the whole roll of film.
oh hey, thanks for your detailed comment. I don't think you're surprised that I have to disagree on all three points. 😅
-the emulsion side down was a special request from valoi to mention it separately. (if anyone needs to know it then people who make film holders) You can of course shoot them the other way around but it has no advantage as scratches and other things are always visible on a transparent negative.
- to convert the negative at the end you have to take the WB at the edge of the negative anyway. so it doesn't matter what you set before. At the end you can create a preset in lightroom that is correct before but you do not have to.
-+1 may be helpful if you have a high contrast scene and bright dark skies.
-DOF doesn't matter if you have a flat negative and everything is well focused. apart from that i also say that f5.6 is usually the best which has enough latitude to keep the negative sharp.
-whether to use average or spot i could have said. but i don't think you would come up with the idea of using spot meter.
-Adjusting the exposure on a roll only makes sense if you know that you have shot the majority of the roll in a constant brightness. Otherwise it has the advantage of not having to shoot with the same settings because all images are exposed in the same way. this means that in the end you always have the same exposure in negative lab pro and therefore less work to optimize the individual image.
How about tips for people who wanna do this for fun and don't have 10 million euros to spend on all the equipment
Depending on how much photography you do, it might be enough to just have your negative scanned in a lab. This might cost $10+ upwards but you don't have the high costs of additional equipment to begin with. However, it is cheaper in the long run.
Of course you can also work with smartphones or super cheap scanners. However, the quality is so poor that it is not worth the time to even try these methods.
subtitles please!
youtube should actually provide automatically created subtitles. you'd have to take a look. :D
You can't 'scan' with a camera - you 'digitise' images!
Yes true. I have also always wondered at the beginning, however, that has become so naturalized with most that you connect this term now with it. I do not make the rules. 🤷
sounds so much worse than just using a scanner haha
Of course you can also use a scanner, especially if you already have one. :D
But if you don't have one it is:
-billger(if you have a suitable camera)
-higher image quality (if you don't have an Epson V850)
-you don't need 5min to scan a picture but only 1/125 sec. :D
Hi stopped watching when you took the Lords name in vain
Okay, I didn't think it would bother anyone.
@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Just trying to make people aware. We are his and are made to worship him. Peace brother.
Great info. Some Olympus cameras have hi-res mode which give you 60-80MB files and they're a lot cheaper than an A7RIV.
That's right I had totally forgotten about this, the cameras are really well suited for scanning.