How To Set A Door
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Trim Carpentry, Finish Carpentry, Woodworking, Carpentry, DIY
How to set a door! In this video you’ll find multiple carpentry tips and tricks along with how to. There are many methods to set a door that will have long lasting quality. This is what works for us and are area!
SMASH LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE 🤙🏻
@MilwaukeeTool
@STABILAOfficial
#shorts #tools #how #diy #tipsandtricks #woodworking #build #construction
Find full video here that showcases final product of install 👉🏼👉🏼 th-cam.com/video/ijmKAhHdB9Q/w-d-xo.html
Love it this is the way I was taught. I'll usually replace one screw in each hinge with a 3 inch structural
👍
Boom there it is I was looking for it.
Is someone kicking in your interior doors? Thats only needed on an exterior door
@@TT-ik3kd or if you have rentals with rough tenants. You telling me you never seen an interior door dangling by loose hinges from idiots treating it like shit. 3” screws into the 2x4 stud prevents that. Now the key is not have rentals only rented by the cartel/ crips or the like. Fixed many doors kicked in by swat.
Well that's a given of course you do at least 1.screw to start off on rough install, then replace all of them on jam side an door side after door hung good
This is pretty much exactly how I was taught when I started as a trim carpenter at 18. Been doing it for 25 years and it's never failed me! Wish more people did it right. I find so many crap installs these days. Went into a house last week and the entire house had doors installed with no shims or anything and each door had nothing but 4 18 ga nails holding it in. Luckily the homeowner called me because she didn't trust her builder.
This method works on some situations. Every install is little different .
Why have I never thought to shim BEFORE setting the door? I’m just a homeowner, but now I look forward to setting my next door! Thanks!
This is not needed for an interior door.
Probably because you’re a homeowner 😂
Because that's not how you do it
Make sure you have the room to do it on the other side.
Oscillating tool the best ,and safest for cutting shims.
Yep
I like my m18
Razor blade. Just score and snap towards your score not away. Perfect snap, fits in your pocket, not wasting oscillating blade.
@JordanWatson-bz4fb you must not do this work often.
@@kevinr3263 idk 5 to 6 days a week for 15 years. 🤷
Less tools you carry around the lighter and faster. If you need a multi tool to cut a shim you must not do this very much.
Never installed a door this way just for the simple fact of I never work with newer houses it’s always a house from 1722 that needs 30 packs of shims to level the door but thanks for the tips, I’ll have to try it this way when I get the chance to work on a newer house 😂
You wouldn't need that many shims in you level you floor on an old house first 😉
1722😆
New builds aren't any better
🤣
Well said...my houses are all 100+...and always leaning to one side or the other.....
Never seen anyone use a skill saw to cut the shims. I can’t decide if I want to hate it or if it’s genius.
Let’s go with genius 🤙🏻
@@texascarpenter it certainly is faster than a plug in oscillating tool. Then again, maybe i just had a bad experience when using an oscillating tool.
Cordless Milwaukee multi tool for me, but this guy is a pro, pre shimming your hinge side pre install is clutch.
I’ve always seen a box cutter and breaking off shims. Skilsaw looks cool on videos but seems overkill to me.
@@Oh6Torch he's using a box cutter on the last one on the bottom.
You can use whatever method you want to cut shims. But a utility knife is all you need. Simply score it and snap it, for the longest time I used a multi-tool, but not even necessary
Finally, someone on TH-cam that knows what plum and level mean lol
Plum(b)
That’s how I was taught to do it 35 years ago. I also add two 3inch screws in each hinge pocket countersunk. No worries about Door sagging overtime.
This is TH-cam sir, your video is far too useful and straightforward. Are you sure your in the right place?
I would never nail off the hinge side until I checked to see if the knob side was touching the stop (rabbet) from top to bottom. (doglegged) most of the time you need to fine tune the jamb on either side to get it right.
💯
Once he checked the floor for level he knew that wasn’t going to be an issue. Jam level + floor level = 90 degree, no issues
Well, it was close. “Plumb is in the eye of the beholder.”
Haha all the doors I’ve hung over the years I never once thought of using the circle saw to trim shims back. Nice!
ngl, as much as I like the brick built houses here in the UK, I'd 100% prefer to work on timber frame, so bloody fast!!!
It's only brick exterior in UK now. All rest is timber stud walls. Throw away homes. Some companies still use internal block work but the price difference is ridiculous.
@@dannythorpe1425 It's true that. I always end up working on older and solid houses. I actually live in a house built of concrete poured in situ (the lot! floors, walls, roof. Put up in 1921 as an experiment and 101 years later this sucker aint moved at all, but I do miss the ability to run a pipe or a cable under the floor 😅.
@@thediyandpianoguy8665 haha yeah I moan at older homes when I have to get the core drill out 🤣
@@dannythorpe1425 I wouldn't say throw-away. At least you guys have brick only exterior. Way quieter, much more insulated, stronger. Nowadays, it's much more practical to stud out interior walls, as it reduces the labor cost for trades to work inside/around brick, nevermind the headache.
OMG thank you so much thank you thank you thank you thank you I can't thank you enough I was trying to figure out how the hell am I going to shim this door properly and I would have never thought of this thank you again thank you
Never thought to use the circ for trimming shims. My multitools days are numbered…
Right on 🤙🏻
Almost done correctly. Next time add a 3” screw behind each hinge into the framing. This will prevent the jamb from moving over time as the door is opened and closed. If it’s a solid core door then you also need to swap 1 short hinge screw for a longer screw on each hinge. This prevents the door from sagging over time. If it’s a hollow core door you can get by without switching to a longer screw
I love that nail gun your using! It’s a game changer.
It’s awesome 👍🏼
@@texascarpenter is that the 16ga or 18ga nailer. What are your thoughts on a 18ga crown stapler?
How many times did I watch this? Yes 😅 phenomenal information! Thank you!
That's a first. I have NEVER seen a carpenter use a circular saw to cut shims. Nope. First time.
Lol you’re welcome 🤙🏻
on big gaps I use 2 shims... one from left to right and the other from right to left... it creates a flat surface and prevents the door frame from twisting...
I do my doors the same way, takes about 15 minutes n comes out good
Yessir 🤙🏻
@@texascarpenter Hey man, i was thinking about buying that same saw, hows it been for you?
Also, which nailgun is that one? I have the papertape m18 framing nailer, it's my favorite framing nailer even though it's fairly heavy.
I never set door frames with the door in the frame, the weight of the door pulling on the frame makes it a lot more difficult.
@@chuckgranger9777 Those reveals be outa whack and not consistent all the way around the door if you take it out of the frame. Everyone has their way I guess
@@nmknmk8936 I take the door of the frame to set the hinge side, put the door back in the frame, then set the rest of the frame, easy as 1,2,3.
Thank you so much !!!! Learned something new today!!! God bless you
GREAT WORK MATE.
Hmmm, never did it this way, but it does make perfect sense.
Right on 🤙🏻 Many methods can work with proper execution!
Amazing work 👍👍👍
Everyone always shows balancing the whole frame as you try to level the frame.
Lol
This is smart.
If you shim each side at the very top, so that it's snug, yiu don't have to balance anything. You can open and close the door and get it shimmed out perfectly.
This is a good way to set a door but only if the wall is plum. If it's not your casing will show with tapered caulking joints. I just follow the wall, but plumb the inside frame.
Split jambs?
@@texascarpenter I have no clue what he is trying to say.
@@michaelmcclellan9422 It has to split jambs? The only thing I can think. We’ve never messed around with those..
@@texascarpenter they are used for pocket doors but they are only on what you would consider the hinge side of a swing door, the strike side is one piece like any jamb. Fyi I set my prehung doors exactly as you.
He must be referring to if the opening is plumb not the wall. It still doesn't matter though, our method stills works.
Always center the door in the RO.
Why?
@@lakestatebullies7391 ever see a door at the end of a hallway 1/2" off center. Doors are laid out and framed in a particular way for a reason. It's finished carpentry 101.
@@moaskiDoors on the end of a hallway especially a dead end hall almost never happen and when they do to notice a 1/2" the door would need to be almost the width of the hallway. Finish carpentry 101 that's laughable. "Always center in ro" is a bold statement and really bad practice. With that statement your assuming the ro is centered. I've seen it far to often where ro's are off by a 1/2" or more. In instances where doors have little wall on each side of the door I mark center of door at the top of the jamb and center of wall I would never rely on center of the ro.
@@lakestatebullies7391 I agree..."always" is a bold statement. What I meant to say is 95% of the time.
"If ya don't know, know ya know, nigga." -Biggie-
@@moaski if you dont center the door in the ro that 5% of the time when you say it matters the most then why are you centering it the other 95% of the time? Sounds like youve been doing it wrong or have no idea why you do it. If you're always/95% centering stuff in rough openings then you are by no means a finish carpenter. The rough opening is just that rough it allows you to plumb and level, center or offset, raise or lower to make equal heights or widths across a walls interior and exterior finishes. I like things symmetrical and I'm thinking about all finishes not just what's right in front of me that moment. So theres a little more to it than always centering. Kinda funny when guys are taught something use it their whole life and even try to teach others the same methods but have no reasonable explanation to why they do it. Buy yourself a laser and start measuring stuff instead of "always" eyeballing center of the opening.
First class job buddy 🙌
The past couple doors I’ve done I have left the knob plug in and it’s really made it go in truer and way faster.
That’s my method too! Pack it out best you can then fill the gaps with expanding foam!
Nice work
Thanks 🤙🏻
Bro needs a multi tool for them shims
Nothing faster than the skilsaw 🤙🏻
why not just score with a box cutter and break off flush.. that is the quickest
Who needs a multi tool when youre skilsaw skills are on point
All the best carpenters use minimal tools they just get it done.
@@jamespetkwitz8737pine shims are a pain in the ass with a utility knife. Cedar Shims are the way to go.
Nuice! I now realize why out why my new garage door doesn’t fit well lol
Nice !
You make it look easy !
FINALLY somebody online that knows how to hang a door. I had given up
Nice system!
This is very simple and easy but in real world does not work all the time as door frames not always square. Sometimes the fram is twisted so bad the shimming this way would not work because of shims only plumb under the level but If the door frame twisted, shims will be more proud on one side or the other.
Nice to hear a carpenter know the difference between level and plumb 😉
I've been hanging doors since 2010. Not a bad method, more than one way to skin a cat.
Since nobody asked- I like to put the door in the opening- open the slab, REMOVE DOOR STOP pieces, use two shims behind top and bottom hinges. 15g nail above and below (not through) shims. One nail on top and bottom of strike side to hold in place.
Plumb hinge side both ways, flush top of jamb to wall.
Use the slab to adjust reveal on strike side of jamb.
I put all my fasteners on the jamb where the door stop we removed will cover. Screw through hinges, shims behind each hinge, shim in 4 places on strike side, nail it off, cut shims with bear saw or fein tool, then reinstall door stops after door hardware is on (unless it's painted trim, then just flush slab to jamb and install door stop to that).
Some door jambs have the doorstop piece milled as one so it can't be removed. Is what it is, but there are some tricks to hiding fasteners too.
I like to plumb the door in place, you're going to be using a level to nail the shims and cut once, why do it twice when you get the door in? Plus, if you need to remove shims or add, it's a little hard when they're nailed in there behind the slab.
Nobody asked, and this video is awesome and you do good work.
I like to have the shims free for many reasons.
The 1/4 inch pads before the shims is brilliant.
Can you come to Atlanta and teach my trim guys how to hang doors? Every house has multiple issues - ghosting, tight in the frame, rubbing, misaligned strikes. And don’t get me started on the wood windows. A good trim carpenter is worth his weight on gold, figuratively speaking. 😊
I never thought about using shims to get it plumb before the door frame ever goes in.
Carpenters just seem to have an obsession with power tools, maybe quicker but not necessarily better.
That’s how you set a door! 👌🏻👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
All good except the circular saw cutting shims. Way to risky for trim work.
To each their own 🤙🏻
What a primal way to level doorframes
Never shim directly behind the strike. Instead shim just below or above.
As a man who works with his hands building and fixing things I can honestly say it is a skill I am proud to possess and a pleasure to execute
For some reason I don't believe you
@@kevinr3263 well let me just say that my world is slowly falling apart, and I’m barely holding on because “for some reason” you don’t believe me. I don’t know how I’ll continue living.
That's nice for new construction I do remodel doors all the time and going off old brick and wood I wish I had this clean of a hole
Nice work.
It helps if the jamb is the same width as the wall is thick, also nail lengths if timber to the header and bottom of jamb, that way it will but up against the walls and gives a bit more support for fixing.
I bought a new house, whoever did the doors here needs to watch this video. Nice work!
Appreciate that 🤙🏻
Do you not use screws to hold the door jamb into the framing?
This is how I always set doors. Just make sure the clearance on your header is even and adjust the strike side. Spencer, on INSIDER Carpentry has the ultimate set up with his jamb master. Check it out!! He's usually trimming high end homes.
I like the pencil trick. I use my multi tool for almost everything like that though.
Great idea.
Hadn’t seen someone use a circular saw for that before but I like it.
That Skil Saw looked more like a Milwaukee M18 circular saw.
This and swapping out windows seems like two very tricky task
I've been a trim carpenter for 10 years working on customs for the last 7 and I've never seen anyone shim the door before putting it in the opening. I'll try a couple on the next house on my schedule see how it goes.
Nice work man! Get an oscillating tool it’s cheap that skilly is gonna take some fingers with it😬
As a master door builder for interior exterior and commercial doors, I thought ive seen and heard it all as to how to put a door in until now. This is Definitely different. Never seen anyone use a level on any door at any time. For sheer purpose of nothing ever being true square.
These preassembled, doors in door casings, look great not seen these in the UK
When doing entry doors I take out the hinge side screws 1 at a time on the jamb side not the door side and replace them with 3" structural screws then I take out the striker screws and do the same. If you put in a solid door there is no way in hell anybody can kick it in.
LOL.
GENIUS!
I wish I knew about plumbing the one side first before hanging the door. I always hung it then plumbed the hinge side. This is much better idea.
We cut plywood blocks and nail them to one side, so the door sits in the opening then check plumb and reveals. shim, nail and screw if needed.
Thanks dude. I’m getting ready to hang a few myself and your tips make good sense.
Right on 🤙🏻
Interesting jamb set. Solid Poplar 1x's with finger jointed SPF molding stops
Waisted time right there but I'll respect the way people do they job.. 🙏👍
Can’t believe you don’t take the stops off. That thing better slap 100% perfect
I can't believe you typed that
Not the way I was taught but I definitely like it.
However, once I discovered door hanging kits, I’ll never h go I back to using shims to plumb and level a door and getting the proper reveal. It’s all done in minutes.
You gotta love that new construction. Now show me how easy it is on a home built in 1874.
So where do you get these prehung doors that are actually mortised nicely lol all the ones i get are completely fucked and im left filling around my striker and hinges, ive been custom hanging doors and im sick of doing it, this is literally my dream but the quality of pre hungs here are dog shit unfortunately
Is it better to nail a door frame into the stud or is it better to screw it? I always used framing screws, I figure it gives you leeway if something needs tweaking you can fix it without destroying the frame.. and also replacing the door in the future will be a lot more hectic and insult inducing to accomplish, no? I’m just saying, to me it just makes a lot more sense.
Never thought of installing shims on hinge side first with level before putting in door. Dang I’m stupid.
Hinge side should be slammed against the king, I'll never understand why they shim the hinge side, makes for a weak point.
Nice. But when you have lots of doors to install theirs definitly quicker ways
Right on if you’ve a faster way 🤙🏻 Keep on keeping on..
30 doors in that house. Haven’t had a call back in 20 years
I was always tough to shim after getting my first screw in the top. This looks wayyy cleaner
Put the casing on one side first then hang it by putting ur level against the hinges then jus adjust ur reveal.. alot less time
Decent work, only in USA this kind of ancient technology
?
You just save me a ton of work I’ll get 21 doors to install
Oh my god, genius. Taking the 4ft level to get the shims right for plumb. My dumb ass has been taking the whole pre-hung unit over, and shimming it. Your way is so much easier.
Need to check your floor level and cut the jamb bottoms accordingly . Unless your dropping floor after
To be clear, you're not nailing your shims "off." You're nailing them ON.
This can't actually be a mistake people make
So how do you adjust any discrepancy on the hinge side of the door if you nail your shims. Just curious I have hung hundreds of doors over the years and I always nail the shims last.
Nice to see him cutting off shims
Nice work. Milwaukee guns are awesome
Yes but the rubber tips fall off to easy on the 15 ga.
@@imyourhuckleberry247 yes they do.I have the fuel framer, 15,18 gauge, and pin nailer. Love them all
I've set 10,000s doors. There is about 10% of the information needed to do it right in this video. Not that he did anything wrong in here. Except on the strike side shim top then bottom then middle. So you can get your door to sit flush with the jam stop.
This man has done this quite a few times I think
First time I seen someone use a circular saw to cut off shims, that’s real skill right there. It was odd seeing, but if you got the skills, why not.
Usually check ground level first , right ?
If that door wasn't hollow I'd say use some screws to keep it from moving
That’s a tru stile door. Ways about 100 lbs
Love it, but your going to have to jam extend that to case it. From what I have learned you should never jam extend on the hinge side. The door was set behind the drywall?
Can you tell me what a fair price is for installing doors and casing on new construction for a builder thats building a 100 houses? Please and thank you
check the jam for plum, and then the apples for oranges...