I'm an old dirt biker and I have built 3 different mid-drive e-bikes now, one with Bafang and two with TongSheng. I have a few observations based on my experience... The Bafang is a powerful motor but the power delivery is an abrupt on or off. The throttle is good for starting off from an awkward position on the trail. You can "ghost pedal" with the Bafang while cruising and it will speed along at full power without the throttle... The TongSheng is a less powerful motor but the power delivery is more natural since it is a torque sensor motor. It varies power according to the amount of pressure you apply to the pedals. The revolution counter magnet on the wheel can be left off the TongSheng to eliminate that wiring. A tiny handlebar display is optional for the TongSheng. The motor is physically smaller...I found that the "dolphin" style batteries always end up needing to be strapped down with bungies since the narrow mounting rail is just holding the center of the battery. Mounting the battery high on the frame noticeably affects the bike handling. Shorter crank arms are a good option to keep pedal strikes down, but crank discipline still needs to be learned. I get about twenty miles offroad with a 14AH battery...Have fun! E-bikes are like magic!
I don't mind the throttle as I like to ride it like a MX bike but the abrupt power on pedal assist is strange. I have a programing cable coming to see if I can adjust that. As far as the high mount battery, it doesn't seem to effect the handling at all to me. I am actually able to grab with my knees like on an MX bike. I will look into the TongSheng motor and possible do a build with one too.
@@aMotoheadsGarage One nice thing about the Bafang is that you can buy a cable to attach to your motor and phone or computer to program the motor. Lots of options, including the time it takes the motor to kick in. Nice job on the modification for the battery.
@@mikehemen9708 You can go full throttle on TSDZ2 as well. The internal torque sensor makes your "less" power *more* usable and you end up with a net benefit that is tunable as well as better range, both due to smaller motor and better use of power/smoother curves because torque sensing.
I've used both of those motors and I totally agree with you on the differences between the two. My biggest issue with the TongSheng though is the mounting, it's just too low for real mountain bike riding.
I installed a 750W Bafang on my Kona Stinky and I love it. I've taken it up some pretty steep trails here in Utah and it does great. I can go close to 30mph on flat ground, so that's fun too.
@@aMotoheadsGarage My state has a problem with way too many very large mountains. The BBSHD going to kick their asses next year. Tested it up a 45% clime and it did it no problem.
@@KTB3007 I'm running a 52V 50AMP 10AH battery made from Samsung 21700. I got it at a local shop in West Jordan, UT called Electrify Bike Co. The Stinky has limited space in the triangle so I needed something smaller. You would likely be able to fit one of the Shark batteries in your triangle.
I did this to my old Cannondale a couple of years ago. One thing you can do is double the number of pedal assist levels from 5 to 10 in the settings mode on the controller. By doing that you will only get 10% power on level 1 instead of the 20% you are getting now so it will not be as abrupt when starting off. The higher levels are for climbing hills, anything over level 2 or 3 and you will be ghost pedaling on level ground.
I’m going to piss a lot of MTB people off but I barely pedal at all. I use the throttle 99.99% of the time. I only pedal from the truck to the trailhead, so I get less dirty looks 😁
Get the programming cable. It will not only allow you to set what the pedal assist levels are, it can also set the throttle so it's always 0-100% power rather than 0-PAS level. I found the stock PAS 1 & 2 levels were too low for use, so I reset them for specific speeds (on flat ground). The throttle not connected to the PAS is really nice, especially when taking off from a red light or when climbing a hill and you realize you set the PAS too low.
Top Tip: Add a bit of wide duck tape around the body of the motor to cover the seams where the motor body mounts to its side covers; this stops water ingress during wet weather which creeps in and ruins your day. (I have a similar conversion, hardtail old Diamond Back Ascent Ex; smaller battery and can, just, do a 40mile round trip without a recharge)
I'll have to see if I could put a gasket there using the old "hammer" method for making gaskets. I'm pretty sure I still have a huge roll of that stuff kicking around. Thanks for the suggestion.
Had my bafang bbshd for about 2.5 years now and so far I've went through 3 chains and 2 freewheels. Has alot of power. I weigh about 230 bije weight with everything is about 80 pounds, and I can easily hit about 34 to 37 mph. Also have a pair of continental road tires at 2.2 width. Only thing I regret was not going with a 52v system. I went with the 48v 24.5ah battery. But I get about 56 miles on throttle only with excellent conditions. I commute to work everyday total of 26 miles both ways and I freaking love it.
@@aMotoheadsGarage KMC E-series ebike chains. E1 for single speed bikes. E8-E12 for 8-12speed bikes. Heavier duty Also. Invest in a Park Tools brand chain stretch measurement tool. Check regularly and replace chains at 0.65 or so. Don’t wait for 0.75. Once chains reach 0.75 the cassette will also possibly need replacement. If matching a new chain with a worn cassette the chain will skip and possibly break the chain and cassette teeth. Also. Releasing pedal effort slightly while shifting and gently allowing the gears to slip to the next gear (even with the gear sensor) will prolong drivetrain life. Think of it as easing on the dirt bike throttle when shifting.
this was a great video - you may have approached things a bit differently than I would have but I appreciate how you explained your thought process and gave such a detailed breakdown.
Thanks. Did you happen to see the next video where I “upgrade” the bike? I give a little bit more detail on my thoughts after owning it and the design.
I was lucky first shot mounting my BBS02 after pulling out my 20 year old bike from the shed. Also have a 52V battery. My changes are as follows: 54T front and 34/11 rear so no more ghost pedaling, yet still ok for steep hills. Also hacked the software with Luna to adapt the assist levels to my taste. This was overall a highly rewarding project and recommend it to all. (Btw, with the 52V, I get approx. 80 miles on flat roads with reasonable assist levels)
My dad converted his old steel MTB with a mid drive Bafang kit last year. We also noticed the abrupt ‘on off’ peer delivery and didn’t how it rode. I then bought the cable and I tweaked all the settings until we were happy with it. It eliminated the jerky throttle behaviour and even improved the distance on a charge. It can reach over 30mph on the flat too!
Your info all together and item purchase info as well has been super helpful. Thank you. I've watched so many videos and yours has been absolutely the most informative. So informative that it gives me the confidence I needed for purchase. Bafang should pay YOU!
Can't go wrong with a Bafang BBS motor. Especially if you're a DIY'r. I've built 3 now(1 HD and 2 02's). Two are mine, one Road rocket that's HD powered on a 52v battery, controller reprogrammed to give 100% @ full throttle no matter what the PAS is set to. It'll cruise at 40mph in top gear, it's kind of scary. 6500 miles on it so far. 2nd one is Schwinn Axum MTB(hard tail) that's BBS02 powered on a 48v battery. The most recent 02 build was a Birthday gift for my God daughter. By the way, the space between the mounting plate and the motor where you stacked washers is usually always a 5mm gap if your bottom bracket is a standard 68mm BSA. Or a 6mm gap on PF30 bottom brackets after you get the proper adapter in there since all BBS's require the BSA standard.
I installed a BBSHD on my bike , best value for money. Install is simple but you need to plan ahead before ordering and upon install. Motor brackets gets loose over time , purchase plumbing clamps (2 ) and install them on motor and connect one to frame to secure the motor. Cabling management took more time but there are ways to hide them such as a small pouch attached to front handle bars where you can hide the wires. Thanks to some video's on you tube my install was perfect and the bike looks amazing , the performance is out of this world.
Been running my bafang bbso2 with a 52v 14ah battery for about 5 months now. We made her a single speed to make it unbreakable and this baby is smooth, I will always rec that people build there own. If something goes wrong, instead of filing a support ticket and being SOL for a while, you can fix the bike yourself. That most prebuilts are lacking in a category or two, where as you can get the full package if you go custom.
Don’t let that fool you, I definitely know I’m better than everyone. 🤣🤣 just kidding. Thanks so much!! I just feel blessed to be able to have fun in my shop. I only have what I do because of my lovely supportive wife, but don’t tell her lol.
Also i got my full kit from jhonnynerdout, he had a full consultation with me to see my bike and talk about what I need to order. Without Johnny i would not have my ebike. Thanks for making this vid, it would've helped when i was building mine lol!
Yeah because when I went to order from him it never asked if I want 100mm only had up to 73 mm according to his site and I couldn't find a way to ask him about it without paying 20 bucks
Basically you need to select a bike with a frame that has a triangle inside the tubing to fit the battery inside the triangle instead of on top. There is a handful of frames that have room inside the frame triangle beside the rear spring. Downside: You would have to build your own battery that fits exactly in the room the frame provides.
You’ll also find that it’s nice taking the bike out on good days sometimes. No noise just chilling on a good day driving down to the store. Another upside of a ebike to me
I was wondering how pedalling felt when there was no power. Does the electric motor give a little resistance or does it feel like the cranks are turning freely? I'm not concerned about the extra weight. I've test ridden a Giant Talon E + 1 and I'm really impressed at how it feels like a really good mountain bike with the power off. The lack of friction is amazing. There's nowhere in the world where I can test-ride an e-bike with a mid-drive Bafang motor, though.
2 years ago i built up my old 2004 Trek with one of these and I haven't looked back. I have a disability that's kept me from riding for year and i think soup to nuts I spent about $800 doing the conversion. Fooling around with re-programming it has helped a lot. I'm now building up another bike with a CYC Pro Gen 4. I *do* like the torque sensing much better.
Did this bafang to my Kona ute.. has been Workhorse for years.. been pulling a four wheel farm wagon framed chloroplast camper utility vehicle on a class one hitch, for shopping and Adventures.. it's a new niche.. to get around Rome's roads with less rules and cost
With peddle assist mode, and some programming, limit output to 250w. You'll get well over 100 miles on it, likely around 120. And you'll get around 60 miles with out peddling. That battery is huge, it likely will go much further than my numbers.
I did the same with the 750 fang mid drive, 46t lekkie chainring and the 52v jumbo batt Donor bike is my Trek 4300 4Series mtb. I can hit 40.8 max speed full charge of 58.9v (While peddling my ass off ) on a smooth street. Bike weighs in at 55 lbs now which is still light when compared to others. Everything other them frame and shocks are new Shimano Deore/XT. If you buy the programing cable you can set performance as you wish.. just don't crank the amps up to far as you may fry your controller... and you should throw your parts on a larger donor bike with better shocks.. that one is to small for you 💁
I went with TongShen TSDZ2 for my fat tad CSX upgrade but now I need to upgrade to belt drive as I'm breaking chains all the time now. I'm also building a rear wheel with an Enviolo CVT hub that should allow for better power transfer and smooth gear ratio adjustments. That would stop some of the breakage but standard bike chain just stretches with a mid drive so it's always going to be weak; instead of spending the money to upgrade my entire chain drive, including sprockets, etc, removing the external rear cassette + chain and adding belt + IGH will make zero maintenance bulletproof drivetrain. I get full air on the BMX track and I have no trouble getting up into the bowls at the skate park but every time I land the thing or go over a cement lip it smashes the idler pulleys off - that's the final add is a skid plate to keep from destroying the belt pulleys until I can somehow move them above the frame.
Just starting your Video. The main shaft has bearings, Bafang says 50-60 Nm, but this is not tight enough usually. 80Nm is max, withoutbputting to much strain on the bearings, lock thight will do the rest.
Dude, I saw you on TFL doing their course in your 2dr Bronco MT. I got the same Badlands on 33s with the 7spd. Now here I am finding you rocking the Bafang I'm about to build myself. I'll stay tuned. Good work buddy.
What you called "the controller" is actually the display. The "controller" is a printed circuit board inside the Bafang motor that controls all the settings, like power amp up and pedal assist power levels. I'd consider dismounting that nutcracker battery and put it in a backpack (with an extension cable). IMO from the factory PAS 1 is too much power but it can be reprogrammed to accomplish your own idea of perfection. If you're going to ride on throttle only I strongly suggest you use the gears (just like you would with a dirt bike). If you just throttle around in high gear you may overheat the motor or controller. If you use the gears properly the Bafangs are virtually indestructible. Ride on & enjoy;)
Thanks for the advice. I’ve read somewhere that it’s best to keep the motor at high RPMs. That lugging it down will cause it to overheat. I did reprogram, stay tuned for the next video. It made such a big difference.
Great video! I love watching folks discover the joy of building an electric conversion . I have built at least 35 bikes to date, I have built with the Bafang 750 watt mid drive system but I generally use rear hub systems because they are easy to install and allow me to remove the system from one bike to another with ease. I get the 48 volt blue bricks and make my own battery armor then use velcro to hold it all in place, again this allows me to change out the kit from one bike frame to another with ease. That is what I really love about doing the conversions not expensive and universal . I have a full suspension Ebike present with a 1500 watt direct drive rear motor. I mounted to a custom rack I built but hope to find a frame I can chop the bottom tube so I can weld a battery box in it's place to bring the battery weight down but not in the way of front tire or bottom cranks.
Finally! An install video! Except you skipped the most important part... showing how the wires connect up :(. How is the bike holding up? Still working well? Any issues?
Change the wheel size down to trick the system to let you go faster. Also reprogram the system to give you power by percentage instead of 100 percent on low levels to a speed like it’s set up.
Just a suggestion. You can buy a seatpost mounted rear rack. There are many, many different models to choose from. I n my opinion your current battery would fit nicely on one and look much better and if you slide forward off the seat accidentally your bits wouldn't slam into the battery. Just a thought.
Yeah, being a motocross rider, the battery actually gives me a place to grab with my knees. Like you do on a dirtbike. So it’s kind of a happy accident 🤷🏻♂️.
That is the worst place you can mount a battery is To put way over the rear tire is going to make the entire thing handle like trash. So many people make this mistake it's laughable. Any two wheeled vehicle you want the weight center and as low in the frame as possible.
My bafang experience: An old bike is the perfect donor to try out a motor kit, once you know your going to stick with it then get a better fitted bike for yourself. Mid drives will shred your rear wheel gotta be on top of wheel truing. a cassette is necessary to not get stranded. Johnny is a good source but I highly disagree with freewheels being a good choice for a mid drive. I have 15638 miles on the bbs02 odometer and have only done maintenance to it. Greasing the gears every few hundred miles is a good idea (the gears inside the motor not drivetrain) Lube your chain more frequently I use wax and touch it up with ptfe lube every 100 miles or so. Replace the chainring with the deruiz gold chainring it is the best one I have used. No teeth have chipped and I only need to replace it after about 1.5k miles (just sucks it is gold for bbs02, they have black for the Bbshd tho)
If you get a programming cable you can change the settings on the motor so that the power ramps on more smoothly when you start pedaling and stops quicker when you stop pedaling. Makes a big difference in how smooth the motor feels.
All weight needs to be as low as possible for better handling - those battery packs weigh a lot. I think there is enough space to mount the battery on the downtube above the motor without fouling the front wheel. The BBS02 750w kit has turned me into a cycling god! I can go up some insanely steep hills with ease - I used to have to get off and walk up them!
Well, I can tell you one thing. That bike frame is a made in the USA max-extrusion that was made in Portland Oregon at a now defunct company Anodizing Inc. When you said you bought the cheapest bike you could find, you got a much better deal than you thought you did. That frame was originally designed with rim brakes only, as that was the norm at that time period. You notice the nice conversion arm on the rear brakes that allows using disk brakes on a rim brake frame. I have two of those bikes. One I have ridden near to death, and the other is similar to what you bought, ridden only to church on sunday and I'm an old man. Thank you for the video. You confirmed a lot of things that I have learned from other videos about making sure to use a shift sensor etc.
The more time I spend on the bike the more I like it. My friends are MTB snobs and if it not Carbon Fiber and new, then it’s junk. I’m going to replace rear shock and rebuild the forks. Then do a full test of the bike.
You gotta get the programming. Smooths out the pedal-assist and throttle control. Feels kinda cheap without it, in my opinion. I own the 750w, 48v, mid-drive kit. Awesome on a Specialized Rockhopper.
Hey just wanted to let you know that I'm going to order things tonight and build My All out bike...they need to start sending you free stuff for demo and you should start selling thing's... thanks for the video brother..
I really appreciate it. To be honest, I’m not constant enough with my videos. I never post them “once a week” or anything. So that hurts my channel. But hearing how people like it (and sometimes hate it) really motivates me. Thanks.
A battery half that size with 250 watt motor on a road bike would be good for 50-70 miles judging from the experience of other riders I have ridden with. Off road mileage is harder to compare as generally the speeds are a lot lower unless you are downhilling or on a flat non-technical course and most ATB courses are at most 10-15 miles so double track/gravel is needed for longer mileage without beating you up from rocks and roots.
I think my MTB trail test will have to be a multiple day test lol. It below freezing here in Texas and that’s not a fair test for the battery. New videos about the bike coming as soon as it warms up a bit 🥶
It's a bit top heavy, but if it works it's good enough for me. Also, it has plenty of power to compensate for the extra weight. Nice quick build. Enjoy!
I'm planning on converting an older 26" Motobecane DS500 mtn bike. The battery will have to go on a rack in the back, but this bike will never be for mtn biking again anyway. I already have a clamp on rack for the seatpost. An Ebike is the only way I would ever go back to road biking, and it would be with an older friend that needs his Ebike to do what we used to do before. I would never Ebike on the trails. I don't like the motor kicking in just because I touch the pedals for a slight push over a rock or root. I could just shut the motor off, but then it would be dead weight, and I prefer to be the only dead weight on the bike thank you. LOL
If you're into function more than form then kit is the way to go.. also is advisable to have a relationship with Electric bicycle mechanic.. what you got there is a good brand.. buyer should beware of junk.. pay the extra money to get a reputable brand.. bafang all right by me... has been a champ with my cargo bike
Battery placement like a lot of the build is the Mutha Of Necessity. and battery weight matters as much as placement. I have found 36 volts is a really fine battery though all my personal bikes are 48 volts. 36 Volt on my wife's Voilamart 1000 watt cruiser keeps up with most my bikes and even out runs some of my 48's, it is far lighter than 48 volt batteries especially when you want longer range you need something like 20 ah 1000w well a 36 volt will weigh far less and will be smaller in size so easier to hang on the frame . You may lose a mile an hour from 48 to 36 in some cases with direct drives but mid drives and planetary geared hubs run great on them and generally you can set the battery lever in your handlebar controller.
I got a BBS02. Just tested it for about 60 miles. Apart from the problem that I have to restrict it to 19 Amps @ 48 Volts because my battery turns off if I draw more. I also have a bike with a el cheapo Chinese 1000W rear direct drive hub motor and compared to this I'm absolutely not impressed with the BBS02. While the Hub Motor goes about 30mph with 19 Amps drawn from the battery the Bafang only makes 25 mph max with the same 19 Amps. In both cases I pedal and help to get to the speed, my guess is that my own power equals to 100-150W. Longest gear ratio is about the same in both bikes and at 30mph i pedal with a cadence of 80 per minute, which ist doable and comfortable but the bafang just does not deliver the same power with 19 Amps @ 48V like the Hub Motor does. The stepest hill I have done so far is done by the hub motor with about 7 mph (still with my biological 100W). Although the Bafang uses the gear ratio it does the hill only minimal better. Seems I spend more money on the bafang for less power and efficiency then on the hub motor.
great video. My first bafang lasted 3 years an 10000 miles...based on the rear shock frame you chose next time you should get the rear battery not the shark battery. It comes with a rear rack and rear light. Top heavy though... if you want safe low point of gravity buy a normal diamond back frame bike and the shark battery mount it to your bottle cage then get a towntube shock absorbing saddle post.
Put bafang 750watt mid drive on my old Giant Roam. Brilliant over 5200 km. It's great put gear shift sensor on that makes big difference plus use an Ebike Chain KMC our Shimano. Brilliant 😊
These work great on classic twin triangle frames. Turn those old hardtails into the commuters and gravel bikes instead of spunking thousands on new models. Love the old FSR btw. Their seatpost issues are a pain though
Not good for a dropper post and you can't drop a long post as it hits the shock. My mate had one and took a long and short post with him so he could ride to the spot and then have more fun with the DH
I'm building a Gravity Monster Fat Bike with the Bafang BBSHD kit and upgraded Deore XT hydraulic brakes. Plus the usual chain line issues... Now I'm into it almost $3K. And still can't ride the silly thing. So should have just gone to a professional bike store and bought a factory build. Easy peasy. No hassles. Parts and service after the sale makes itworth the money.
What bike shop ready to ride bike are you going to get for $3k and it have the power of the BBSHD? Plus a throttle? I might be thinking of the wrong model, but isn’t the Gravity Monster only $600 new? How did you rack up $3k?
@@aMotoheadsGarage Oops. My bad... Bike $600. BBSHD kit with biggest battery available $1399. Shimano Deore XT hydraulic brakes $450. Lekkie Bling Ring (42) $145. Miscellaneous pieces-parts $100. Plus all the shipping $100 =$2694. By the time I get it done it will be $3K easy. And I can't get a bike shop to touch it... So, yeah, spend the same money and get a factory build with parts, service, and support. No brainer.
@@quoderatdemonstrandum5442 My build might not be as nice as yours (in any way lol) but it didn’t cost near that. My question is, what bike could someone buy ready to go for less than $3000 and it has a twist throttle and good components?
you need to reprogram the controller with a usb programming cable (or get the Eggrider display). Stock programming is total crap. also you need a 42t dished chainring. You cannot go smaller, as you get a bad chainline on the large cogs in the rear. as for the tightenig of the bottom bracket lockrings, go as hard as you can and also add loctite, they will come loose. The best way to do it, is grind in the marks of the mounting plate so it fits snugly to the BB shell and will not eat itself into the BB with time (and get loose that way) The BBS02 motor is not for all frames, it will fit on frames that are made for tires up to 2.3" wide, bigger ones will require some spacers which worsen the chainline. Also, for a good build, you need to mount the battery in the frame triangle to keep the center of gravity low. that excludes most full suspension frames.
I think it would be great to have an oversized battery. That way you could potentially ride for many hours on a rails to trails bike path even possibly making a round trip out of the whole trail and not need two cars, one at the beginning and one at the end.
Nice video I got the same kit from JNO same price but the sticker states 250W BBSO1B he swears the max output is 750 W also kit came with a 48v-10 ah battery.
You can get the programming cable that connects into the display port to change the power at different pas levels. Also I think the battery should have a lower center of gravity. I have my 52v 20ah on the bottle cage of my boardman mtx
Great stuff just in time for me to do some research into doing this before spring since I bought a £220 mountain bike and I aim to fit a mid drive kit. However my frame is kinked by design so mounting the battery is going to be difficult. So i'm looking for a luggage rack that fits onto the swing arm which i've found one but I haven't found another at the moment. I'm only adding a motor just so I can commute to and from work a little easier so I shouldn't need a massive battery pack like that just a slightly slim one.
The awesome thing is, they make them all different shapes and sizes. So you might find one to fit. Just don’t be like me, measure the area more than once. And maybe use a tape and not just your eyeball 🤣🤣
I also did a bafang fit to a great dh santa cruz v2, used it for 30 kilometer and bought a real mtb ebike from Canondale, you cant even compare how better the true mtb ebike his. The balance, control, riding ability is highly superior with a brand ebike. The riding ability in technical trails with roots, rocks and various obstacles is very limited for the kit ebike. If you ride mostly city, country roads no problem you will enjoy your kit bafang. With a 10amp battery you should do 60k or more with some pedal assist on road or leveled gravel easy trail.
But aren't the Cannondale e-MTB over $5500? Out of my and many others budget. The idea I had was to show people that it's possible to build an eMTB on a budget.
@@aMotoheadsGarage yes you have a kit ebike but not a true mountain ebike, you would not be able to follow mid level mountain bike rider on technical trails with a good mountain bike and no motor . My point his you have a decent ebike. Its all about your riding expectation of the bicycle. I hesitate to say or compare with a mtb ebike, not the same capability. The Sonders Fold X is $1699 and lots of fun, and better riding pleasure. than most old bicycle with ebike kit. You can find a few decent ebike at lower price. Your bike has nothing in commun with a $5000 e mountain bike. I did 2 conversion in las 10 years, they are lots of fun to do i encourage anyone to try, but these days you can find ebike at lower price with better capability and riding pleasure.
@@richardthibert3222 I’m trying to get my hands on an entry level eMTB to compare it too. Just remember, the bike that this is built on is not a bad bike and has good components. Stay tuned for a video where a few MTB riders test it out, and give their honest thoughts.
Look for a better frame, such as a Turner Five Spot, where you should be able to mount the battery inside the front triangle of the bike. Having the battery up high is not optimal for handling. There are different controller programs available online. You need a PC and a special USB cable for it.
it seems like it will be better idea to get the biggest battery and after you see it in person and measure it you have to chose a bike which can fit that somehow decently
Bro, I think you went short a appraisal you gave it, I think $1900 it would be for how you did it but if it was all used, used Specialized eBike. But a great branded bike with mostly up to date components and electrified… you would be really lucky to find a good branded e-bike for less than $4k, even the E-kit it’s known to be very reliable and full suspension, HydraBrakes and many other goodies, I bet that you saved at least $2.5k, also considering you are in US or EU, where they are more available. Great job, but sorry bro I just can’t hold it, LOL, the battery is probably heavier than the bike. Thanks for sharing, I would be building one from ground up and see how it goes with the 1kw mid drive.
Glad you got hydraulic disc brakes because of the extra bike weight & you can get larger rotors (up to 8" with adapters) for even more stopping power (especially when going Really fast downhill, I've gone over 45 MPH). I have 5 years using the BBSHD, the same display & a similar battery (52V, 750 WH). You will like the results of programming the controller to your use and bike ability. Back pedal slightly, or stop pedaling to stop the motor while shifting. Sorry that you didn't research the battery size & shape before buying that bike so you could have gotten a frame more suited to the battery. My battery is mounted under the (straight) downtube, almost touching the drive unit, the low center of gravity makes my bike even more stable. I hope that the newer BBS02 can withstand the heavier use from mountain biking, the BBSHD has stronger components in the controller, and you can program it for 1600W of power (2 HP). The program from Pentoff (free download) will let you set cadence and power levels for each power level preset, 1 basic "power up", 2 high speed for on road or flat, and 3-6 for lower speed & increasingly more power for trails and climbing has been great for me. The 0 preset is no assist (but the odometer, etc continues to work) to save battery when you don't need assist & can still use the throttle. Getting a smaller chainring will let you use the power more effectively especially when climbing. I would not want to use the big & ugly stamped steel chainring of road, most better chainrings have "narrow-wide" teeth to match the chain, and (almost 100%) prevents dropping the chain when bouncing around or jumping. I can go 25+ miles (including a lot of climbing) using less than 25% of my battery. Even with my ebike weighing over 60 pounds, I can still bunny hop it over speed bumps. Remember that lithium-ion batteries are happiest between 30% & 80% of charge, and storing them fully charged (100%), or running them too low will shorten their life, the voltmeter in your display will let you know where you are at, I made a chart that shows volts and % of charge to help me. Also opening your battery case to silicone where the case mates up to keep water out is a good idea, I had to replace a battery because water got in and shorted out a bank of cells.
@@HB-yq8gy they may have improved it, but the BBS01/BBS02 was prone to blowing up its internal controller when driven too hard (trying to get too much power, climbing in too high of a gear, etc), so 750W for an extended time can cause overheating &may even cause damage. The BBSHD can be programed to deliver more than 1500W, especially with a 52V battery, I don't know if the BBS02 can take 52V (a fully charged 52V battery measures over 58V). Karl Gesslein would know, he was an early adopter of the bafang mid drive and has blown up a few by running them too hard (fat tire bikes in deep snow for example). (Edited to add more info)
Good bike for $200. If you could build a U shaped split battery 🔋 case where each side woukd hang over the main front tube. Would be perfect 👌 better looks & lower center of weight gravity.
hey heads up those xt 4 piston brakes on there are pretty rare and seem to sell for upwards of $300 for a set on ebay, u could sell them, replace them with newer, better, and cheaper brakes and end with a profit and better stopping power.
If they are Lions or Lipos, they will last a lot longer if you leave them stored at around 50% charge. Lead acid batteries like to be at 100 percent, but Lipos or Liions like to be at 50%. They might not be those, they might be some other chemistry.
@@aMotoheadsGarage Keep it around 50% charge or 3.85v per cell and they'll last a super long time. Try not to go lower than say 30% or higher than 70% and avoid the extremes of the range, except every blue moon. I have a smart phone that I run that way and it's lasted forever with not much sign of battery degradation. Also, they don't like extreme temperatures, that shortens their life, or heat. Avoid freezing them, there's a little moisture inside them. I keep my quadcopter liions in the lettuce crisper drawer at 45F and 50% charge. They seem to never lose a charge over months and months. You're suppose to use them every now and then, but for the 4 years I was blind, I didn't have that option. They are still fine.
@@aMotoheadsGarage Surgery on both eyes. Bueracracy takes a long while, plus it was a long process of many appointments before hand to test, measure, etc. Oddly, I learned to fly aerobatics while blind with nothing else to do, sitting 1.5 feet away from a 27" screen in a simulator. As long as I could make out a blurry horizon and all the obstacles, I was good to go.
I also ride single track with my dirt bike every weekend just moved to a area with some sweet mtb trails in Charlottesville I'm all in on the bafang I planned on the big battery will the smaller battery give me less power or just less range ?thanks for the video .I think we are on the same mind set dirtbiker first everything else is to just prepare for dirtbike riding days
The battery “size” is about range. The battery voltage is more about power. I definitely think the 20ah battery is way more than needed for this lol. I believe a 17ah would have been more than enough. I’ll be doing a range test soon.
Not sure if its been mentioned, but be careful starting in high gear too much. These motors are happy at high RPM and less happy under load of high gear. A lot of premature wear cases has been linked to high gear starts or cruising in high gear for extended periods.
🎉 Happy new year! I’m thinking to buy bafang kit like you have. I already build one e-bike with hub motor and it was amazing! To be honest I’m fan of Enduro moto but in place I live now it’s forbidden to use them, so E-bike it’s only option for me. I’m waiting for your real life test, if it possible try it in the mountains ! ❤
I built a bafang mid-drive bike for £700 the second hand bike cost 250 the kit was £350 plus £100 for some bits plus i already had a spare battery 52v 21amp 👍🏾
Did you try and mount the battery on the front downtube, behind the front wheel? Looks like it would fit, and keep the weight low down for stability. I just tap one of the brakes when changing gear to cut the power momentarily, (without needing the extra shifter cable).
I’m thinking about building my first e-bike and I’m currently searching everywhere for a good kit, would this be good for beginners? Also great video I love it!
Great video! I built my 750w kit onto a genesis hardtail so battery fit inside frame on drink bottle holes. I love it!! What power motor did you fit? Cheers! Tom.
my mate plans on a MORE EFFICIENT ENERGY USE. AXLE STANDS ON HIS WIFE'S BIKE and an alternator and pulley connected by belt to bare rear rim. a cable to his tesla and after she cycles 90 hours he can drive to work.
He never said what motor and battery size he bought. Battery location is not ideal as it places all that weight up high. To OP there is a programming cable available for your setup that allows dialing in all sorts for characteristics of the motor system.
Part 2 is now out 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
th-cam.com/video/pyNW9EXB_zA/w-d-xo.html
I'm an old dirt biker and I have built 3 different mid-drive e-bikes now, one with Bafang and two with TongSheng. I have a few observations based on my experience... The Bafang is a powerful motor but the power delivery is an abrupt on or off. The throttle is good for starting off from an awkward position on the trail. You can "ghost pedal" with the Bafang while cruising and it will speed along at full power without the throttle... The TongSheng is a less powerful motor but the power delivery is more natural since it is a torque sensor motor. It varies power according to the amount of pressure you apply to the pedals. The revolution counter magnet on the wheel can be left off the TongSheng to eliminate that wiring. A tiny handlebar display is optional for the TongSheng. The motor is physically smaller...I found that the "dolphin" style batteries always end up needing to be strapped down with bungies since the narrow mounting rail is just holding the center of the battery. Mounting the battery high on the frame noticeably affects the bike handling. Shorter crank arms are a good option to keep pedal strikes down, but crank discipline still needs to be learned. I get about twenty miles offroad with a 14AH battery...Have fun! E-bikes are like magic!
I don't mind the throttle as I like to ride it like a MX bike but the abrupt power on pedal assist is strange. I have a programing cable coming to see if I can adjust that. As far as the high mount battery, it doesn't seem to effect the handling at all to me. I am actually able to grab with my knees like on an MX bike. I will look into the TongSheng motor and possible do a build with one too.
@@aMotoheadsGarage One nice thing about the Bafang is that you can buy a cable to attach to your motor and phone or computer to program the motor. Lots of options, including the time it takes the motor to kick in. Nice job on the modification for the battery.
@@mikehemen9708 stay tuned, I have a cable on the way.
@@mikehemen9708 You can go full throttle on TSDZ2 as well. The internal torque sensor makes your "less" power *more* usable and you end up with a net benefit that is tunable as well as better range, both due to smaller motor and better use of power/smoother curves because torque sensing.
I've used both of those motors and I totally agree with you on the differences between the two. My biggest issue with the TongSheng though is the mounting, it's just too low for real mountain bike riding.
I have a bafang hd motor for over 2 years now done over 14,000 miles and the motor has never skipped a beat .It just goes and goes .
Just did a 750w bbs02 on an old GT hard tail.... So much fun!
Nerd out rules!
I was thinking of trying it on one my BMX bike, lol.
What year and model? I have a GT avalanche from 1996 and want to do this conversion
@@Baldysyoutubechannel 2004 aggressor 1, chunky aluminium frame. I'd just make sure it's disk brake ready as you'll want them.
I installed a 750W Bafang on my Kona Stinky and I love it. I've taken it up some pretty steep trails here in Utah and it does great. I can go close to 30mph on flat ground, so that's fun too.
It completely changes MTB for me. I can ride and have fun, without suffering on the up hills.
@@aMotoheadsGarage My state has a problem with way too many very large mountains. The BBSHD going to kick their asses next year. Tested it up a 45% clime and it did it no problem.
@@Eric_Tennant Here in East Texas all the trails have more than 95% up hill it feels like, lol.
I want to try that on Kona Lava Dome - what battery and size / location did you use ??
@@KTB3007 I'm running a 52V 50AMP 10AH battery made from Samsung 21700. I got it at a local shop in West Jordan, UT called Electrify Bike Co. The Stinky has limited space in the triangle so I needed something smaller. You would likely be able to fit one of the Shark batteries in your triangle.
I did this to my old Cannondale a couple of years ago. One thing you can do is double the number of pedal assist levels from 5 to 10 in the settings mode on the controller. By doing that you will only get 10% power on level 1 instead of the 20% you are getting now so it will not be as abrupt when starting off. The higher levels are for climbing hills, anything over level 2 or 3 and you will be ghost pedaling on level ground.
I’m going to piss a lot of MTB people off but I barely pedal at all. I use the throttle 99.99% of the time. I only pedal from the truck to the trailhead, so I get less dirty looks 😁
Get the programming cable. It will not only allow you to set what the pedal assist levels are, it can also set the throttle so it's always 0-100% power rather than 0-PAS level. I found the stock PAS 1 & 2 levels were too low for use, so I reset them for specific speeds (on flat ground). The throttle not connected to the PAS is really nice, especially when taking off from a red light or when climbing a hill and you realize you set the PAS too low.
@@ebikeengineer Yeah, going to do that for sure.
@@aMotoheadsGarage I ride the throttle past the cyclist and ring my bell as I come up behind them.
@@dalvenable331 That's great, lol
Top Tip: Add a bit of wide duck tape around the body of the motor to cover the seams where the motor body mounts to its side covers; this stops water ingress during wet weather which creeps in and ruins your day. (I have a similar conversion, hardtail old Diamond Back Ascent Ex; smaller battery and can, just, do a 40mile round trip without a recharge)
That’s a good idea. Maybe some thick vinyl tape.
I'll have to see if I could put a gasket there using the old "hammer" method for making gaskets. I'm pretty sure I still have a huge roll of that stuff kicking around. Thanks for the suggestion.
Had my bafang bbshd for about 2.5 years now and so far I've went through 3 chains and 2 freewheels. Has alot of power. I weigh about 230 bije weight with everything is about 80 pounds, and I can easily hit about 34 to 37 mph. Also have a pair of continental road tires at 2.2 width. Only thing I regret was not going with a 52v system. I went with the 48v 24.5ah battery. But I get about 56 miles on throttle only with excellent conditions. I commute to work everyday total of 26 miles both ways and I freaking love it.
I was going to replace the chain with a HD chain if I can find one.
@@aMotoheadsGarage KMC E-series ebike chains. E1 for single speed bikes. E8-E12 for 8-12speed bikes. Heavier duty
Also. Invest in a Park Tools brand chain stretch measurement tool. Check regularly and replace chains at 0.65 or so. Don’t wait for 0.75. Once chains reach 0.75 the cassette will also possibly need replacement. If matching a new chain with a worn cassette the chain will skip and possibly break the chain and cassette teeth.
Also. Releasing pedal effort slightly while shifting and gently allowing the gears to slip to the next gear (even with the gear sensor) will prolong drivetrain life. Think of it as easing on the dirt bike throttle when shifting.
why do you regret it it's nonsense. buy 72v controller conversion kit
this was a great video - you may have approached things a bit differently than I would have but I appreciate how you explained your thought process and gave such a detailed breakdown.
Thanks. Did you happen to see the next video where I “upgrade” the bike? I give a little bit more detail on my thoughts after owning it and the design.
I was lucky first shot mounting my BBS02 after pulling out my 20 year old bike from the shed. Also have a 52V battery. My changes are as follows: 54T front and 34/11 rear so no more ghost pedaling, yet still ok for steep hills. Also hacked the software with Luna to adapt the assist levels to my taste. This was overall a highly rewarding project and recommend it to all. (Btw, with the 52V, I get approx. 80 miles on flat roads with reasonable assist levels)
How big is your battery? 52v 30ah? 60ah?
My dad converted his old steel MTB with a mid drive Bafang kit last year. We also noticed the abrupt ‘on off’ peer delivery and didn’t how it rode. I then bought the cable and I tweaked all the settings until we were happy with it. It eliminated the jerky throttle behaviour and even improved the distance on a charge. It can reach over 30mph on the flat too!
I'm really looking forward to programing this thing.
Your info all together and item purchase info as well has been super helpful. Thank you. I've watched so many videos and yours has been absolutely the most informative. So informative that it gives me the confidence I needed for purchase. Bafang should pay YOU!
Thanks!! I really appreciate that. Hopefully you subscribe and enjoy the content
It is called spring washer, it used where vibrations may be an issue and should definitely be used in this instance.
Can't go wrong with a Bafang BBS motor. Especially if you're a DIY'r. I've built 3 now(1 HD and 2 02's). Two are mine, one Road rocket that's HD powered on a 52v battery, controller reprogrammed to give 100% @ full throttle no matter what the PAS is set to. It'll cruise at 40mph in top gear, it's kind of scary. 6500 miles on it so far. 2nd one is Schwinn Axum MTB(hard tail) that's BBS02 powered on a 48v battery. The most recent 02 build was a Birthday gift for my God daughter.
By the way, the space between the mounting plate and the motor where you stacked washers is usually always a 5mm gap if your bottom bracket is a standard 68mm BSA. Or a 6mm gap on PF30 bottom brackets after you get the proper adapter in there since all BBS's require the BSA standard.
Can you help me build mine? I have voodoo bizanko bike 🚲.Are you in uk I can reach you out
I installed a BBSHD on my bike , best value for money. Install is simple but you need to plan ahead before ordering and upon install. Motor brackets gets loose over time , purchase plumbing clamps (2 ) and install them on motor and connect one to frame to secure the motor. Cabling management took more time but there are ways to hide them such as a small pouch attached to front handle bars where you can hide the wires. Thanks to some video's on you tube my install was perfect and the bike looks amazing , the performance is out of this world.
Yeah, I was so surprised by how good it is.
Been running my bafang bbso2 with a 52v 14ah battery for about 5 months now. We made her a single speed to make it unbreakable and this baby is smooth, I will always rec that people build there own. If something goes wrong, instead of filing a support ticket and being SOL for a while, you can fix the bike yourself. That most prebuilts are lacking in a category or two, where as you can get the full package if you go custom.
I enjoyed it so much, I might build a few more 😂
I have a shimano nexus 8 speed hub in the rear, if you want gears these hubs are really good
@@andyb7963 is that the internal geared hub?
Man alive thank you for your plain speaking normal person way about showing this how-to. No talking down to the audience.
Don’t let that fool you, I definitely know I’m better than everyone. 🤣🤣 just kidding. Thanks so much!! I just feel blessed to be able to have fun in my shop. I only have what I do because of my lovely supportive wife, but don’t tell her lol.
Also i got my full kit from jhonnynerdout, he had a full consultation with me to see my bike and talk about what I need to order. Without Johnny i would not have my ebike. Thanks for making this vid, it would've helped when i was building mine lol!
Did you have to do one of those prepaid consultations with Johnny to get purchase information?
Yeah because when I went to order from him it never asked if I want 100mm only had up to 73 mm according to his site and I couldn't find a way to ask him about it without paying 20 bucks
Basically you need to select a bike with a frame that has a triangle inside the tubing to fit the battery inside the triangle instead of on top. There is a handful of frames that have room inside the frame triangle beside the rear spring. Downside: You would have to build your own battery that fits exactly in the room the frame provides.
You’ll also find that it’s nice taking the bike out on good days sometimes. No noise just chilling on a good day driving down to the store. Another upside of a ebike to me
It has just added so much fun to a MTB ride. AND I've only rode it once.
I was wondering how pedalling felt when there was no power. Does the electric motor give a little resistance or does it feel like the cranks are turning freely? I'm not concerned about the extra weight.
I've test ridden a Giant Talon E + 1 and I'm really impressed at how it feels like a really good mountain bike with the power off. The lack of friction is amazing.
There's nowhere in the world where I can test-ride an e-bike with a mid-drive Bafang motor, though.
2 years ago i built up my old 2004 Trek with one of these and I haven't looked back. I have a disability that's kept me from riding for year and i think soup to nuts I spent about $800 doing the conversion. Fooling around with re-programming it has helped a lot. I'm now building up another bike with a CYC Pro Gen 4. I *do* like the torque sensing much better.
I really want to try the CYC
I have the BBSHD and it keept going for 3 years and almost 25000 km so far with only 1 service.
Sure has some flaws but for the price it´s awesome.
Did this bafang to my Kona ute.. has been Workhorse for years.. been pulling a four wheel farm wagon framed chloroplast camper utility vehicle on a class one hitch, for shopping and Adventures.. it's a new niche.. to get around Rome's roads with less rules and cost
That's awesome. Would love to see that.
With peddle assist mode, and some programming, limit output to 250w. You'll get well over 100 miles on it, likely around 120. And you'll get around 60 miles with out peddling. That battery is huge, it likely will go much further than my numbers.
I’m not really going to ride it much on the street.
I did the same with the 750 fang mid drive, 46t lekkie chainring and the 52v jumbo batt Donor bike is my Trek 4300 4Series mtb. I can hit 40.8 max speed full charge of 58.9v (While peddling my ass off ) on a smooth street. Bike weighs in at 55 lbs now which is still light when compared to others. Everything other them frame and shocks are new Shimano Deore/XT. If you buy the programing cable you can set performance as you wish.. just don't crank the amps up to far as you may fry your controller... and you should throw your parts on a larger donor bike with better shocks.. that one is to small for you 💁
Isn’t the bottom bracket too long for the 750 mid drive?
@@michaeldonohue1957 i've had no issues
I went with TongShen TSDZ2 for my fat tad CSX upgrade but now I need to upgrade to belt drive as I'm breaking chains all the time now.
I'm also building a rear wheel with an Enviolo CVT hub that should allow for better power transfer and smooth gear ratio adjustments. That would stop some of the breakage but standard bike chain just stretches with a mid drive so it's always going to be weak; instead of spending the money to upgrade my entire chain drive, including sprockets, etc, removing the external rear cassette + chain and adding belt + IGH will make zero maintenance bulletproof drivetrain.
I get full air on the BMX track and I have no trouble getting up into the bowls at the skate park but every time I land the thing or go over a cement lip it smashes the idler pulleys off - that's the final add is a skid plate to keep from destroying the belt pulleys until I can somehow move them above the frame.
I didn’t realize it had that much power
Just starting your Video. The main shaft has bearings, Bafang says 50-60 Nm, but this is not tight enough usually. 80Nm is max, withoutbputting to much strain on the bearings, lock thight will do the rest.
Dude, I saw you on TFL doing their course in your 2dr Bronco MT. I got the same Badlands on 33s with the 7spd. Now here I am finding you rocking the Bafang I'm about to build myself. I'll stay tuned. Good work buddy.
Thanks. I do a bunch of random things and I hope people enjoy riding along.
What you called "the controller" is actually the display. The "controller" is a printed circuit board inside the Bafang motor that controls all the settings, like power amp up and pedal assist power levels.
I'd consider dismounting that nutcracker battery and put it in a backpack (with an extension cable).
IMO from the factory PAS 1 is too much power but it can be reprogrammed to accomplish your own idea of perfection.
If you're going to ride on throttle only I strongly suggest you use the gears (just like you would with a dirt bike). If you just throttle around in high gear you may overheat the motor or controller. If you use the gears properly the Bafangs are virtually indestructible.
Ride on & enjoy;)
Thanks for the advice. I’ve read somewhere that it’s best to keep the motor at high RPMs. That lugging it down will cause it to overheat. I did reprogram, stay tuned for the next video. It made such a big difference.
Great video! I love watching folks discover the joy of building an electric conversion . I have built at least 35 bikes to date, I have built with the Bafang 750 watt mid drive system but I generally use rear hub systems because they are easy to install and allow me to remove the system from one bike to another with ease. I get the 48 volt blue bricks and make my own battery armor then use velcro to hold it all in place, again this allows me to change out the kit from one bike frame to another with ease. That is what I really love about doing the conversions not expensive and universal . I have a full suspension Ebike present with a 1500 watt direct drive rear motor. I mounted to a custom rack I built but hope to find a frame I can chop the bottom tube so I can weld a battery box in it's place to bring the battery weight down but not in the way of front tire or bottom cranks.
Building a battery pack is definitely something over my head. Would love to see a video of one of your builds.
Finally! An install video! Except you skipped the most important part... showing how the wires connect up :(. How is the bike holding up? Still working well? Any issues?
@@IdahoEagle77 it seems to be holding up fine. I can make an update video if people want it
@@aMotoheadsGarage definitely 👍
Change the wheel size down to trick the system to let you go faster. Also reprogram the system to give you power by percentage instead of 100 percent on low levels to a speed like it’s set up.
I’ll look into that
Just a suggestion. You can buy a seatpost mounted rear rack. There are many, many different models to choose from. I n my opinion your current battery would fit nicely on one and look much better and if you slide forward off the seat accidentally your bits wouldn't slam into the battery. Just a thought.
Yeah, being a motocross rider, the battery actually gives me a place to grab with my knees. Like you do on a dirtbike. So it’s kind of a happy accident 🤷🏻♂️.
That is the worst place you can mount a battery is To put way over the rear tire is going to make the entire thing handle like trash. So many people make this mistake it's laughable. Any two wheeled vehicle you want the weight center and as low in the frame as possible.
My bafang experience:
An old bike is the perfect donor to try out a motor kit, once you know your going to stick with it then get a better fitted bike for yourself.
Mid drives will shred your rear wheel gotta be on top of wheel truing.
a cassette is necessary to not get stranded.
Johnny is a good source but I highly disagree with freewheels being a good choice for a mid drive.
I have 15638 miles on the bbs02 odometer and have only done maintenance to it.
Greasing the gears every few hundred miles is a good idea (the gears inside the motor not drivetrain)
Lube your chain more frequently I use wax and touch it up with ptfe lube every 100 miles or so.
Replace the chainring with the deruiz gold chainring it is the best one I have used. No teeth have chipped and I only need to replace it after about 1.5k miles (just sucks it is gold for bbs02, they have black for the Bbshd tho)
Lots of good info 🤘🏼
If you get a programming cable you can change the settings on the motor so that the power ramps on more smoothly when you start pedaling and stops quicker when you stop pedaling. Makes a big difference in how smooth the motor feels.
Yeah, the people have spoken. Cable is on the way.
All weight needs to be as low as possible for better handling - those battery packs weigh a lot. I think there is enough space to mount the battery on the downtube above the motor without fouling the front wheel. The BBS02 750w kit has turned me into a cycling god! I can go up some insanely steep hills with ease - I used to have to get off and walk up them!
Unfortunately there isn’t enough room and hopefully you watch the next video update about the bike. I explained more about that. Thanks for watching.
Well, I can tell you one thing. That bike frame is a made in the USA max-extrusion that was made in Portland Oregon at a now defunct company Anodizing Inc. When you said you bought the cheapest bike you could find, you got a much better deal than you thought you did.
That frame was originally designed with rim brakes only, as that was the norm at that time period. You notice the nice conversion arm on the rear brakes that allows using disk brakes on a rim brake frame.
I have two of those bikes. One I have ridden near to death, and the other is similar to what you bought, ridden only to church on sunday and I'm an old man.
Thank you for the video. You confirmed a lot of things that I have learned from other videos about making sure to use a shift sensor etc.
The more time I spend on the bike the more I like it. My friends are MTB snobs and if it not Carbon Fiber and new, then it’s junk. I’m going to replace rear shock and rebuild the forks. Then do a full test of the bike.
@@aMotoheadsGarage as i said before..i want to see you riding it...not that bad....make me a believer
@@thefixer8457 I get home in a week and will be shooting a video about really testing it.
You gotta get the programming. Smooths out the pedal-assist and throttle control. Feels kinda cheap without it, in my opinion. I own the 750w, 48v, mid-drive kit. Awesome on a Specialized Rockhopper.
Hey just wanted to let you know that I'm going to order things tonight and build My All out bike...they need to start sending you free stuff for demo and you should start selling thing's... thanks for the video brother..
I really appreciate it. To be honest, I’m not constant enough with my videos. I never post them “once a week” or anything. So that hurts my channel. But hearing how people like it (and sometimes hate it) really motivates me. Thanks.
A battery half that size with 250 watt motor on a road bike would be good for 50-70 miles judging from the experience of other riders I have ridden with. Off road mileage is harder to compare as generally the speeds are a lot lower unless you are downhilling or on a flat non-technical course and most ATB courses are at most 10-15 miles so double track/gravel is needed for longer mileage without beating you up from rocks and roots.
I think my MTB trail test will have to be a multiple day test lol. It below freezing here in Texas and that’s not a fair test for the battery. New videos about the bike coming as soon as it warms up a bit 🥶
I'm looking forward to the next video on this bike. I'm planning on doing the same to one of my bikes
O, it just got turned up to 11! Was going to shoot it this week but we have been ices over.
Was scheduled to shoot part 2 this week but the ice storm shut us down.
It's a bit top heavy, but if it works it's good enough for me. Also, it has plenty of power to compensate for the extra weight. Nice quick build. Enjoy!
What did you think of the 2nd video about it?
This was informative for me. Really good relaxed unbiased video. Thanks.
Thanks, I think my wife might disagree with you about me being “relaxed” but I’m definitely telling her this 🤣
I'm planning on converting an older 26" Motobecane DS500 mtn bike. The battery will have to go on a rack in the back, but this bike will never be for mtn biking again anyway. I already have a clamp on rack for the seatpost. An Ebike is the only way I would ever go back to road biking, and it would be with an older friend that needs his Ebike to do what we used to do before. I would never Ebike on the trails. I don't like the motor kicking in just because I touch the pedals for a slight push over a rock or root. I could just shut the motor off, but then it would be dead weight, and I prefer to be the only dead weight on the bike thank you. LOL
If you're into function more than form then kit is the way to go.. also is advisable to have a relationship with Electric bicycle mechanic.. what you got there is a good brand.. buyer should beware of junk.. pay the extra money to get a reputable brand.. bafang all right by me... has been a champ with my cargo bike
Bafang motor is all programmable.
It can be smooth as silk and powerful as well.
Battery placement like a lot of the build is the Mutha Of Necessity. and battery weight matters as much as placement. I have found 36 volts is a really fine battery though all my personal bikes are 48 volts. 36 Volt on my wife's Voilamart 1000 watt cruiser keeps up with most my bikes and even out runs some of my 48's, it is far lighter than 48 volt batteries especially when you want longer range you need something like 20 ah 1000w well a 36 volt will weigh far less and will be smaller in size so easier to hang on the frame . You may lose a mile an hour from 48 to 36 in some cases with direct drives but mid drives and planetary geared hubs run great on them and generally you can set the battery lever in your handlebar controller.
I'm thinking of another build with a smaller battery.
the first thing to be done with bafang mid drives is rip the controller out and put a sabvoton or kelly unit in with 72 volts
Better than VESC?
I got a BBS02. Just tested it for about 60 miles. Apart from the problem that I have to restrict it to 19 Amps @ 48 Volts because my battery turns off if I draw more. I also have a bike with a el cheapo Chinese 1000W rear direct drive hub motor and compared to this I'm absolutely not impressed with the BBS02. While the Hub Motor goes about 30mph with 19 Amps drawn from the battery the Bafang only makes 25 mph max with the same 19 Amps. In both cases I pedal and help to get to the speed, my guess is that my own power equals to 100-150W. Longest gear ratio is about the same in both bikes and at 30mph i pedal with a cadence of 80 per minute, which ist doable and comfortable but the bafang just does not deliver the same power with 19 Amps @ 48V like the Hub Motor does.
The stepest hill I have done so far is done by the hub motor with about 7 mph (still with my biological 100W). Although the Bafang uses the gear ratio it does the hill only minimal better. Seems I spend more money on the bafang for less power and efficiency then on the hub motor.
I can easily get 45mph.
great video. My first bafang lasted 3 years an 10000 miles...based on the rear shock frame you chose next time you should get the rear battery not the shark battery. It comes with a rear rack and rear light. Top heavy though... if you want safe low point of gravity buy a normal diamond back frame bike and the shark battery mount it to your bottle cage then get a towntube shock absorbing saddle post.
What did you think of part 2 of the build video?
Im going to watch it tonight.
Put bafang 750watt mid drive on my old Giant Roam.
Brilliant over 5200 km.
It's great put gear shift sensor on that makes big difference plus use an Ebike Chain KMC our Shimano. Brilliant 😊
I didn’t realize that companies were making “E-bike” chains now. That’s cool.
These work great on classic twin triangle frames. Turn those old hardtails into the commuters and gravel bikes instead of spunking thousands on new models.
Love the old FSR btw. Their seatpost issues are a pain though
Seatpost issues?
Not good for a dropper post and you can't drop a long post as it hits the shock.
My mate had one and took a long and short post with him so he could ride to the spot and then have more fun with the DH
@@sweetchariotengland I have a fix coming soon. Next video will be in production next week 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Check out some of the 10AH under seat batteries. I get 25 miles out of mine with juice to spare, more than a enough for a day on the trail.
@@MrDiMaggio5 that’s a good idea
I built a 29”r with a BBSHD 160nm of torque wit a 52 volt nothing out there can’t beat it
It still surprises me that people don’t realize how good these kits can be.
@@aMotoheadsGarage yep I know they have way more torque than any prebuilt EBike you could buy
I just bought a pro flex 857 26 year old mountain bike for 50 $. Gonna build one of these, thanks for the ideas.
If you post pictures or anything, tag me in it!
I'm building a Gravity Monster Fat Bike with the Bafang BBSHD kit and upgraded Deore XT hydraulic brakes. Plus the usual chain line issues... Now I'm into it almost $3K. And still can't ride the silly thing. So should have just gone to a professional bike store and bought a factory build. Easy peasy. No hassles. Parts and service after the sale makes itworth the money.
What bike shop ready to ride bike are you going to get for $3k and it have the power of the BBSHD? Plus a throttle? I might be thinking of the wrong model, but isn’t the Gravity Monster only $600 new? How did you rack up $3k?
@@aMotoheadsGarage Oops. My bad... Bike $600. BBSHD kit with biggest battery available $1399. Shimano Deore XT hydraulic brakes $450. Lekkie Bling Ring (42) $145. Miscellaneous pieces-parts $100. Plus all the shipping $100 =$2694. By the time I get it done it will be $3K easy. And I can't get a bike shop to touch it... So, yeah, spend the same money and get a factory build with parts, service, and support. No brainer.
@@quoderatdemonstrandum5442 My build might not be as nice as yours (in any way lol) but it didn’t cost near that. My question is, what bike could someone buy ready to go for less than $3000 and it has a twist throttle and good components?
@@aMotoheadsGarage Jeez... I don't know.
@@quoderatdemonstrandum5442 LOL, I don't mean to get rude. I would love to test my bike against a retail eMTB.
you need to reprogram the controller with a usb programming cable (or get the Eggrider display). Stock programming is total crap. also you need a 42t dished chainring. You cannot go smaller, as you get a bad chainline on the large cogs in the rear.
as for the tightenig of the bottom bracket lockrings, go as hard as you can and also add loctite, they will come loose. The best way to do it, is grind in the marks of the mounting plate so it fits snugly to the BB shell and will not eat itself into the BB with time (and get loose that way)
The BBS02 motor is not for all frames, it will fit on frames that are made for tires up to 2.3" wide, bigger ones will require some spacers which worsen the chainline. Also, for a good build, you need to mount the battery in the frame triangle to keep the center of gravity low. that excludes most full suspension frames.
I think it would be great to have an oversized battery. That way you could potentially ride for many hours on a rails to trails bike path even possibly making a round trip out of the whole trail and not need two cars, one at the beginning and one at the end.
I’m going to do a full 100% to dead battery test on trails, soon. It’s starting to cool off here in Texas now.
Nice video I got the same kit from JNO same price but the sticker states 250W BBSO1B he swears the max output is 750 W also kit came with a 48v-10 ah battery.
Mine has 750w stickers but some places don’t allow anything larger than 250w. So you are kinda running a big bore 🤣🤣
@@aMotoheadsGarageMy sticker said 250w can you verify your motor model ?
You can get the programming cable that connects into the display port to change the power at different pas levels. Also I think the battery should have a lower center of gravity. I have my 52v 20ah on the bottle cage of my boardman mtx
I got the cable yesterday and started playing with it. More updates in next eMTB video.
Great stuff just in time for me to do some research into doing this before spring since I bought a £220 mountain bike and I aim to fit a mid drive kit. However my frame is kinked by design so mounting the battery is going to be difficult. So i'm looking for a luggage rack that fits onto the swing arm which i've found one but I haven't found another at the moment. I'm only adding a motor just so I can commute to and from work a little easier so I shouldn't need a massive battery pack like that just a slightly slim one.
The awesome thing is, they make them all different shapes and sizes. So you might find one to fit. Just don’t be like me, measure the area more than once. And maybe use a tape and not just your eyeball 🤣🤣
I also did a bafang fit to a great dh santa cruz v2, used it for 30 kilometer and bought a real mtb ebike from Canondale, you cant even compare how better the true mtb ebike his. The balance, control, riding ability is highly superior with a brand ebike. The riding ability in technical trails with roots, rocks and various obstacles is very limited for the kit ebike. If you ride mostly city, country roads no problem you will enjoy your kit bafang. With a 10amp battery you should do 60k or more with some pedal assist on road or leveled gravel easy trail.
But aren't the Cannondale e-MTB over $5500? Out of my and many others budget. The idea I had was to show people that it's possible to build an eMTB on a budget.
@@aMotoheadsGarage yes you have a kit ebike but not a true mountain ebike, you would not be able to follow mid level mountain bike rider on technical trails with a good mountain bike and no motor . My point his you have a decent ebike. Its all about your riding expectation of the bicycle. I hesitate to say or compare with a mtb ebike, not the same capability.
The Sonders Fold X is $1699 and lots of fun, and better riding pleasure. than most old bicycle with ebike kit. You can find a few decent ebike at lower price. Your bike has nothing in commun with a $5000 e mountain bike. I did 2 conversion in las 10 years, they are lots of fun to do i encourage anyone to try, but these days you can find ebike at lower price with better capability and riding pleasure.
@@richardthibert3222 I’m trying to get my hands on an entry level eMTB to compare it too. Just remember, the bike that this is built on is not a bad bike and has good components. Stay tuned for a video where a few MTB riders test it out, and give their honest thoughts.
@@richardthibert3222 Next week I'm planning on shooting an update.
Look for a better frame, such as a Turner Five Spot, where you should be able to mount the battery inside the front triangle of the bike. Having the battery up high is not optimal for handling. There are different controller programs available online. You need a PC and a special USB cable for it.
Cable is on the way, video to come shortly.
You don't need the shift sensor, I use my front brake as a clutch as in not engaging the brake but it cuts the motor.
That’s not a terrible idea. I just like to be able to shift without letting out of the throttle. Plus for me, the brake cut in power is to long.
it seems like it will be better idea to get the biggest battery and after you see it in person and measure it you have to chose a bike which can fit that somehow decently
Unless you already have the bike.
and BTW, you did great at holding your tongue on TFL. I would have given him some unexpected content.
😂
Bro, I think you went short a appraisal you gave it, I think $1900 it would be for how you did it but if it was all used, used Specialized eBike. But a great branded bike with mostly up to date components and electrified… you would be really lucky to find a good branded e-bike for less than $4k, even the E-kit it’s known to be very reliable and full suspension, HydraBrakes and many other goodies, I bet that you saved at least $2.5k, also considering you are in US or EU, where they are more available. Great job, but sorry bro I just can’t hold it, LOL, the battery is probably heavier than the bike. Thanks for sharing, I would be building one from ground up and see how it goes with the 1kw mid drive.
I’ve even updated the bike and it’s so much better. A new video coming as soon as I get back home from working out of town.
Glad you got hydraulic disc brakes because of the extra bike weight & you can get larger rotors (up to 8" with adapters) for even more stopping power (especially when going Really fast downhill, I've gone over 45 MPH). I have 5 years using the BBSHD, the same display & a similar battery (52V, 750 WH). You will like the results of programming the controller to your use and bike ability. Back pedal slightly, or stop pedaling to stop the motor while shifting. Sorry that you didn't research the battery size & shape before buying that bike so you could have gotten a frame more suited to the battery. My battery is mounted under the (straight) downtube, almost touching the drive unit, the low center of gravity makes my bike even more stable. I hope that the newer BBS02 can withstand the heavier use from mountain biking, the BBSHD has stronger components in the controller, and you can program it for 1600W of power (2 HP). The program from Pentoff (free download) will let you set cadence and power levels for each power level preset, 1 basic "power up", 2 high speed for on road or flat, and 3-6 for lower speed & increasingly more power for trails and climbing has been great for me. The 0 preset is no assist (but the odometer, etc continues to work) to save battery when you don't need assist & can still use the throttle. Getting a smaller chainring will let you use the power more effectively especially when climbing. I would not want to use the big & ugly stamped steel chainring of road, most better chainrings have "narrow-wide" teeth to match the chain, and (almost 100%) prevents dropping the chain when bouncing around or jumping. I can go 25+ miles (including a lot of climbing) using less than 25% of my battery. Even with my ebike weighing over 60 pounds, I can still bunny hop it over speed bumps. Remember that lithium-ion batteries are happiest between 30% & 80% of charge, and storing them fully charged (100%), or running them too low will shorten their life, the voltmeter in your display will let you know where you are at, I made a chart that shows volts and % of charge to help me. Also opening your battery case to silicone where the case mates up to keep water out is a good idea, I had to replace a battery because water got in and shorted out a bank of cells.
Does anyone know if it's true that the BBS01b max output is 750W?
@@HB-yq8gy they may have improved it, but the BBS01/BBS02 was prone to blowing up its internal controller when driven too hard (trying to get too much power, climbing in too high of a gear, etc), so 750W for an extended time can cause overheating &may even cause damage. The BBSHD can be programed to deliver more than 1500W, especially with a 52V battery, I don't know if the BBS02 can take 52V (a fully charged 52V battery measures over 58V). Karl Gesslein would know, he was an early adopter of the bafang mid drive and has blown up a few by running them too hard (fat tire bikes in deep snow for example). (Edited to add more info)
@@davebrown9725 Thanks i wanted the 750w bafang motor. The BBSO1b is what i got 😔. Definately will look for Karl Gesslein.
Good bike for $200. If you could build a U shaped split battery 🔋 case where each side woukd hang over the main front tube. Would be perfect 👌 better looks & lower center of weight gravity.
hey heads up those xt 4 piston brakes on there are pretty rare and seem to sell for upwards of $300 for a set on ebay, u could sell them, replace them with newer, better, and cheaper brakes and end with a profit and better stopping power.
You might be my favorite person today. 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Me and John disagree on a few things, but agree on much more. Check out my Trek with a bafang, looks little better to the eyes.
I looks amazing. I subscribed to your channel.
@@aMotoheadsGarage Nice. Good to have an other Bafang user. Had to balance my channel out a bit because I'm backing a lot of g-bikers.
@@Eric_Tennant G-Bikers?
@@aMotoheadsGarage Gas Bike mods
Great Info and verry helpfull for my own Projekt (Gazelle W8)👍😊
Awesome, more info on this build coming soon.
Does the mounting on the bb works on hollowtech?
YOU USED THE WRONG BIKE - I LOVE MY 750 WATT KIT - MAKES YOU FEEL LIKE A KID AGAIN
New sub here thanks for the uploads but you chose the wrong frame a smaller battery could go underneath and have a lower centre of gravity.
I don't like cadence sensors for speed...but you can customize the software for each level of 'assistance'...
I basically have the pedal assist turned off and I use the throttle.
If they are Lions or Lipos, they will last a lot longer if you leave them stored at around 50% charge.
Lead acid batteries like to be at 100 percent, but Lipos or Liions like to be at 50%. They might not be those, they might be some other chemistry.
Yeah, it’s L-Ion
@@aMotoheadsGarage Keep it around 50% charge or 3.85v per cell and they'll last a super long time. Try not to go lower than say 30% or higher than 70% and avoid the extremes of the range, except every blue moon. I have a smart phone that I run that way and it's lasted forever with not much sign of battery degradation.
Also, they don't like extreme temperatures, that shortens their life, or heat. Avoid freezing them, there's a little moisture inside them. I keep my quadcopter liions in the lettuce crisper drawer at 45F and 50% charge. They seem to never lose a charge over months and months. You're suppose to use them every now and then, but for the 4 years I was blind, I didn't have that option. They are still fine.
@@aMotoheadsGarage In a cool garage left at 50% storage charge when you're not using it for a long time and they'll last the longest :-)
@@choppergirl First, thanks for the info.
2nd: Blind for years and now not?
@@aMotoheadsGarage Surgery on both eyes. Bueracracy takes a long while, plus it was a long process of many appointments before hand to test, measure, etc.
Oddly, I learned to fly aerobatics while blind with nothing else to do, sitting 1.5 feet away from a 27" screen in a simulator. As long as I could make out a blurry horizon and all the obstacles, I was good to go.
great video. easy to watch and informative
@@user-qx1gj4uk2o thanks. In a world of people always telling people what they did wrong, I seem to have great viewers. Very helpful and supportive.
Very informative video! Does the motor have a torque sensor or a cadence sensor?
It's a cadence sensor. I have plans for a test on a Torque sensing motor soon.
@@aMotoheadsGarage alright thanks!
I also ride single track with my dirt bike every weekend just moved to a area with some sweet mtb trails in Charlottesville I'm all in on the bafang I planned on the big battery will the smaller battery give me less power or just less range ?thanks for the video .I think we are on the same mind set dirtbiker first everything else is to just prepare for dirtbike riding days
The battery “size” is about range. The battery voltage is more about power. I definitely think the 20ah battery is way more than needed for this lol. I believe a 17ah would have been more than enough. I’ll be doing a range test soon.
Not sure if its been mentioned, but be careful starting in high gear too much. These motors are happy at high RPM and less happy under load of high gear. A lot of premature wear cases has been linked to high gear starts or cruising in high gear for extended periods.
🎉 Happy new year! I’m thinking to buy bafang kit like you have. I already build one e-bike with hub motor and it was amazing! To be honest I’m fan of Enduro moto but in place I live now it’s forbidden to use them, so E-bike it’s only option for me. I’m waiting for your real life test, if it possible try it in the mountains ! ❤
Hoping to have video soon.
Correction sir, the controller is actually fitted within the motor, btw its a motor not an engine
True, that’s why I call my race bike an enginecycle 😂😂. My friends think I’m dumb 😁
If it isn't compatible with ur bike that's not an issue as u just take the motor out and everything to do with it and put it on a more compatable bike
You should definitely watch episode 2
I built a bafang mid-drive bike for £700 the second hand bike cost 250 the kit was £350 plus £100 for some bits plus i already had a spare battery 52v 21amp 👍🏾
It's crazy how good of a deal they can be if you plan the kit right.
@@aMotoheadsGarage I hear you my friend 👍🏾
You’re going to bust your balls on a battery pack.
I don’t think you’ll impress your friends with that contraption, but let’s keep watching 😂
With the temps around 110° right now in Texas, we are waiting for a break in the heat for a big test day lol
Still too expensive for me to take the dip ,I'm powered by coffee and bacon buttys until the price comes down
You can get a 36 mph bike for like 1100 to 1600 (max)😊
Did you try and mount the battery on the front downtube, behind the front wheel? Looks like it would fit, and keep the weight low down for stability. I just tap one of the brakes when changing gear to cut the power momentarily, (without needing the extra shifter cable).
It would get hit by the tire as the suspension moves,
I have a paratrooper bike i don't want to let go. Trying to figure where i would put that battery.
There is a map called 'carls special sauce' that you can load onto the BBS02...hope this helps👍🏻
LOVE the user name! Where would I happen to find said map?
@@aMotoheadsGarage What? New User name?...and you can just Google it ..I'm sure I got it off endless sphere
@@ricksanchez3628 I was saying I love the user name. Just a fan of Rick and Morty.
@@aMotoheadsGarage oh lol, buy the programming lead and get that map on. It makes the throttle a lot more linear
@@aMotoheadsGarageDid you map the BBS02?
I’m thinking about building my first e-bike and I’m currently searching everywhere for a good kit, would this be good for beginners? Also great video I love it!
Yes, it’s very simple and complete. A lots of online resources to help too.
@@aMotoheadsGarage thank you so much!
I can hear myself going braaap "braaat " blazing out of the berms
Get out of my head. I literally do that as I’m riding. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
You could have gotten a seat mounting rack for the battery.
Yes but that puts the battery weight over the rear and makes it less balanced.
Great Video. Can you let me know which size motor and battery you have installed
The Motor is 750w with 52v 19.2AH battery
well seeing enduro bike in the background, i went on to
the video. ;)
The GasGas?
Great video! I built my 750w kit onto a genesis hardtail so battery fit inside frame on drink bottle holes. I love it!! What power motor did you fit? Cheers! Tom.
It’s a 750w motor. Might be building a 1000w soon.
Great content brother, subbed!
Thanks, I enjoy making the videos.
my mate plans on a MORE EFFICIENT ENERGY USE.
AXLE STANDS ON HIS WIFE'S BIKE and an alternator and pulley connected by belt to bare rear rim.
a cable to his tesla and after she cycles 90 hours
he can drive to work.
🤣🤣🤣
The problem I see is you’re missing out on the huge improvements in frame geometry and suspension performance.
Yes, you are 100% right. But we don’t have a bunch of technical trails here.
He never said what motor and battery size he bought. Battery location is not ideal as it places all that weight up high.
To OP there is a programming cable available for your setup that allows dialing in all sorts for characteristics of the motor system.
I got 750w motor and 52v / 19.2Ah battery