After 4 years of research and consideration between a laser engraver and cnc router, and watching hundreds of videos, including yours, I finally decided to invest into the Shapeoko 3 XXL. I got the machine a few weeks ago and have been experimenting with carbide create and VCare Pro. I didn't want to learn how to just do signs but also wanted to start learning to do 3d carving. I made a lot of errors, luckily on scrap wood/plywood and learned a lot about how do do things in different orders. The big problems with videos seems that many producers treat you like you already know how to do a lot of stuff already (because they do it by memory). I write all this to preface my main point. Your videos are actually the best I have found as you actually show and explain some of the minor details that without knowing I would continue to try to figure out. For example, in your Michael sign video, you explain how to use the software and what the settings actually mean and do. You also showed something no one else has even mentioned but I figured out on my own (but was never sure if it was right) setting Z depth when changing tools. Seems like common sense, but not everyone has that. The one thing I am confused about involves loading tool paths. If I load them separately, do I have to re-establish x,y, and z each time or is the location where the tool stops after hitting continue maintaining the x,y, location? You are my go to for everything. I followed your waste board video as my first make. Great Job! with these and all your explanations.
Your issue here was most likely caused by very soft wood, sealing the wood before and after using the CNC, prior to applying the paint, would have prevented the bleeding. I would also suggest using an inexpensive soft rubber roller to press the mask onto the wood for better adhesion.
Nice video. Here are some things that I've seen others do: 1. Spray the wood with water to raise the grain, then let it dry and use a scraper instead of sandpaper for a better finish. 2. Seal the wood with a clear, very low-viscosity epoxy, which will soak deeply into the wood and keep it from absorbing paint/etc. (This can be done both before carving and after.) 3. Push the vinyl with a straightedge (Hard rubber if you can find it, plastic or wood if you can't, metal only if nothing else is available). This will apply even force across the entire width, preventing wrinkles/bubbles/etc. 4. Place your piece on a lazy susan to make it easy to spray from different directions. 5. If you carve deeper, you can mill the surface perfectly flat. Hope these help!
Wanna say I really appreciate your videos. You have picked up a solid skill-level on the CNC and your ability to share that with us is exceptional! I don't even use the same type of machine or the same software but I'm able to take lessons still from your experience and examples here. Please keep doing more stuff to keep us entertained because you're really good at it. I also couldn't pass up the chance to call out the irony of you half-assing a sign that literally tells you never to do that...bravo brother! All in good fun, I really needed to see how these sheets work with painting signs and this video did not disappoint. Also, I got a lot out of your other video on setting up a wasteboard, best one on TH-cam by far and I've watched dozens of them. Thanks again!
Another great video. I have a roll of Oramask, but haven't tried it yet. I've read that when you don't have a second person, it helps to stand at the narrow side of the piece and use a plastic putty knife to smooth out the wrinkles and bubbles before very much of the mask is adhered. It also gives you more control over how much of the mask is unrolling at a time because you're gently pushing the roll away from you. From there on, it goes on a lot smoother. That's the theory, anyway. Thanks for all you do.
It's the Poplar causing the bleeding, I too figured it out the hard way using soft wood, but dang that wood is so cheap. That's why I like your channel--you are a "try it, goof it, try it again, goof it again, and so on" kind a guy. It's called a learning process for a reason. Keep it up with the vid's and ignore the asses. I did not get my CNC to compete with the rest of the world and sure as hell could care less what other people think, but when I run into a problem that's kicking my ass, cost or time or hard work will never get in my way till I figure it out. Love your stuff dude, keep it up!!
Something I came across to help clean up the fuzz off your carving instead of sandpaper was using my sandblasting cabinet with the smaller glass beads. Does an nice job on the small crevices and holes. It will roughen the wood if you stay close on one place for too long. Saves a ton of time, especially on soft fibrous woods.
I agree with below comments. I would definitely do another video, spraying a couple coats of clear sealer just before the black. I do cnc signs as well and this is definitely the way to go. Also, instead of ordering g on Amazon tou can also buy vinyl wall paper at Walmart in a pinch. That's what I use because I hate waiting on shipping.
The bleeding is most likely happening because the grain is soaking up the paint. I switched to regular house paint because the spay paint seems to be too thin. I havent had trouble with bleeding since then. Sealing the wood probably would do the same thing.
You can try using acrylic water based paint to fill your letters with a paintbrush that does not bleed into the grains like your spray lacquers do ever since I started using acrylic to fill letters I have no more bleeds
If you prefinish then lightly sand to make it smooth, use a laminate roller to press the vinyl to make sure it is evenly stuck to wood you will avoid the bleeding. I've been using this method for quite some time. using Oracal contact paper,It's really helpful when using multiple colors. also when using soft wood spray it with varnish after after you machine to seal the wood so paint won't soak into the porous grain.
I've used transfer tape for my 15 years in the sign business. After carving use some sort of clear coat where you carved it will seal the edges so there will be no bleed when you paint on your color coat. I like Zinzer's Shellac in a spray can. Try it you'll like not having to sand out the bleeding! Thanks for the video!
I am definately going to try spraying like everyone has said. I don't think I have ever seen that brand of shellac around here. I'll have to look a little closer next time I go to the store.
I've used a similar mask on poplar. First I applied 2 LIGHT coats of clear shellac. I then applied the mask and did the V Carving. I then applied a HEAVY coat of clear shellac. Once dried, I sprayed the desired color. I had virtually no bleeding at all.
With the rolled things with peel off backing...before applying, reroll the piece opposite the way it came after you cut off the roll. it makes it easier to apply.
I have found if I spray a coat or two of poly first the mask sticks better and it hardly ever bleeds. And yeah, I hate picking fonts as well. I have started doing my fonts in PowerPoint and saving as a jpg, then open it in Inkscape to turn it into an svg. It gives me tons of fonts that are free downloads.
Don't be afraid to reset your z height slightly lower and re-run the cut file (before you remove from the CNC)... this will help you get those details deep enough to account for the masking and help prevent them from sanding away so easily. Lighter coats spread over more time also help reduce bleeding if you're not clear coating prior to paint. One last thing, the masking method you used here works great for color filling acrylic.
Great video, I do the same process but I like to use the paper transfer tape. It's about half the price of vinyl. I also seal soft woods with a coat or two of spray on shellac or Deft lacquer before painting. Really reduces the bleeding.
Before applying the masking sheet, spray the wood with a sealer, then carve it with a CNC and seal the cut grooves with clear lacquer to prevent bleeding before applying the black. Then why not remove the masking sheet and sand the surface with a sander? Sorry for the strange English. English is my second language.(Machine translation)
To prevent the bleeding into the work around your cuts, first spray a clear-coat, let it dry and then spray your color. The clear-coat will seal up the wood and prevent any bleeding! Learned this the hard way doing some multi-color signs a few years back. Since then I have NEVER had issues with paint bleed.
Never totally wet the surface applying one heavy coat of paint. Far more effective applying 4-5 very very light coats. No chance for paint to bleed through the grain, soft or hardwood. Also no sealer coat required 😊. I enjoy your videos
I think that's the key when using softer woods. If I were using walnut or pecan or something I bet it wouldn't bleed. Pine poplar oak stuff like that definitely could use a sealer before paint.
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 my first thought, too, I clear layer will bleed invisibly, but try it on test piece to see if the bleeding really invisible. reverse of a car, clear coat THEN color coat :) when spraying the inclined faces of v-grooves, what about inclining the spray 45 degrees to L moving L to R, the incline R, move R to L ?
You are right about the clear bleeding, if you try to stain the piece after painting it won't take color evenly next to the lettering. I have had this issue. I also recommend using the same clear for finishing that you used for sealing.
I'm now to the world of CNC, and I'm trying techniques like this masking. This video was great to watch, and all the comments help with my plans for my next project. I have to ask, did you create the SVG of Ron yourself or did you find it somewhere. My wife loves the show and I'd like to try to make something for her with his image on it. Thanks.
Have not seen you in a while bud. I have a friend that was a Texas Game Warden and wants to use it as a rough draft for his logo. I’m new to this and having issues changing a jpeg he sent me to svg file that I can alter. Any advice? Thanks bro and keep up the good work
Hey Stuff. Another great video. I do a lot of sign carving. Any wood will bleed if too much paint is sprayed. I use sanding sealer on Pine but not poplar. Pine bleeds like crazy. Looks like you might have over sprayed. Oramask is great stuff. The bleeding was not likely due to the mask.
Not yet. I will be making some signs over the next week or so, and I plan on trying it. I think the majority of the commenters so far have experience with that working pretty good though, so it sounds like the way to go.
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 Sounds good! I need to give this a try. I've been making some signs recently and have been hand painting and it is just way too time consuming. Thanks again for sharing your video and keep up the great work.
Thanks man, idk where you live in Texas, but here it’s just dry heat so I have a small window evaporative cooler that helps with the 110 heat coming up!
Great video. I’ve been wondering how that would work. Fairly new to CNC, shapeoko 3xl here. I’ve watched all your videos, they have inspired a few of my own projects. I think I’m going to try this next, maybe with some pre-stain sealer first. If it works, I’ll let you know. Keep the videos coming!
I think if you would have done your seal on it first like before and then masked it you would have been fine. I like the idea seems to work just fine. Love the videos keep them coming!
The TV in the background is very distracting, and may cause problems with copyright for you just a thought, great video and I enjoy your other videos thank you for your hard work. using a hot air gun can help with applying vinyl especially if the surface isn't flat, it allows you to stretch and to a lesser extent compress.
Thanks for watching Dale. I don't usually play anything on the TV other than the screensaver, but I guess nobody got the joke on this one. The last video I made about operating the touch probe I wore a Ron Swanson T-Shirt. In this video I had parks and recreation playing on the TV which is where the quote from the plaque came from. Hopefully that doesn't violate any copyright rules. Thanks for the info about using the hot air gun. I'll have to try it sometime.
You could have reset your Z height and made it slightly deeper and ran it again to get those finer details to cut without having to try to hand do them. Just a tip for next time. Other that that great video.
Use BEHR Deck paint or Deck stain and you wont have to seal it with clear or use Oramask, just sand it off . Only thing is BEHR is brush only you have to buy a sprayer to spray it. But its well worth it, will sand right off with minimal to NO bleeding, even on soft woods.... You're welcome.
Instead of sanding why don’t you spray the plaque, let it dry, then put it back in the cnc (using the masking tape and superglue method so you don’t need clamps) and then use a surfacing cutter to take off a sliver off of the surface to remove the excess paint. If it’s missing cutting parts of the plaque it’s probably due to the plaque warping due to paint on one side... or it’s due to your bed needing a levelling skim. At any rate it’s better to take a slim skim off the surface to begin and then gradually increase it if you miss parts. I also find that tramming in the head of your cnc makes a big difference in the results... get it right and you hardly need to sand... just a gentle going over with a sanding foam block does it and then seal both sides with poly. Without tramming you can end up with shallow scallops in the surface (like my waste board looks like at the moment after I did some yearly maintenance work and I need to re-tram my carriage).
I run my carving 1/16 deeper then run it through a thickness planer. No bleed over.
After 4 years of research and consideration between a laser engraver and cnc router, and watching hundreds of videos, including yours, I finally decided to invest into the Shapeoko 3 XXL. I got the machine a few weeks ago and have been experimenting with carbide create and VCare Pro. I didn't want to learn how to just do signs but also wanted to start learning to do 3d carving. I made a lot of errors, luckily on scrap wood/plywood and learned a lot about how do do things in different orders. The big problems with videos seems that many producers treat you like you already know how to do a lot of stuff already (because they do it by memory). I write all this to preface my main point. Your videos are actually the best I have found as you actually show and explain some of the minor details that without knowing I would continue to try to figure out. For example, in your Michael sign video, you explain how to use the software and what the settings actually mean and do. You also showed something no one else has even mentioned but I figured out on my own (but was never sure if it was right) setting Z depth when changing tools. Seems like common sense, but not everyone has that. The one thing I am confused about involves loading tool paths. If I load them separately, do I have to re-establish x,y, and z each time or is the location where the tool stops after hitting continue maintaining the x,y, location?
You are my go to for everything. I followed your waste board video as my first make.
Great Job! with these and all your explanations.
Your issue here was most likely caused by very soft wood, sealing the wood before and after using the CNC, prior to applying the paint, would have prevented the bleeding. I would also suggest using an inexpensive soft rubber roller to press the mask onto the wood for better adhesion.
I second sealing the wood before applying paint mask as well as the carved areas...I’ve used Oramask 813 for years
I would apply 1-2 clear coats before applying the color. But the masking tape helps to have less of a mess and cleaner cut outs.
Nice video. Here are some things that I've seen others do:
1. Spray the wood with water to raise the grain, then let it dry and use a scraper instead of sandpaper for a better finish.
2. Seal the wood with a clear, very low-viscosity epoxy, which will soak deeply into the wood and keep it from absorbing paint/etc. (This can be done both before carving and after.)
3. Push the vinyl with a straightedge (Hard rubber if you can find it, plastic or wood if you can't, metal only if nothing else is available). This will apply even force across the entire width, preventing wrinkles/bubbles/etc.
4. Place your piece on a lazy susan to make it easy to spray from different directions.
5. If you carve deeper, you can mill the surface perfectly flat.
Hope these help!
Great video! I appreciate when things don't go perfect that is a real-world video.
Wanna say I really appreciate your videos. You have picked up a solid skill-level on the CNC and your ability to share that with us is exceptional! I don't even use the same type of machine or the same software but I'm able to take lessons still from your experience and examples here. Please keep doing more stuff to keep us entertained because you're really good at it. I also couldn't pass up the chance to call out the irony of you half-assing a sign that literally tells you never to do that...bravo brother! All in good fun, I really needed to see how these sheets work with painting signs and this video did not disappoint. Also, I got a lot out of your other video on setting up a wasteboard, best one on TH-cam by far and I've watched dozens of them. Thanks again!
I use Oracal 631.Before I paint I use a clear shelac to seal the edge between the wood and the vinyl, so no bleed thru. Works great. Love your vids.
Another great video. I have a roll of Oramask, but haven't tried it yet. I've read that when you don't have a second person, it helps to stand at the narrow side of the piece and use a plastic putty knife to smooth out the wrinkles and bubbles before very much of the mask is adhered. It also gives you more control over how much of the mask is unrolling at a time because you're gently pushing the roll away from you. From there on, it goes on a lot smoother. That's the theory, anyway. Thanks for all you do.
Very good video. Learned lots. It saves me time of experimenting on my own.
It's the Poplar causing the bleeding, I too figured it out the hard way using soft wood, but dang that wood is so cheap. That's why I like your channel--you are a "try it, goof it, try it again, goof it again, and so on" kind a guy. It's called a learning process for a reason. Keep it up with the vid's and ignore the asses. I did not get my CNC to compete with the rest of the world and sure as hell could care less what other people think, but when I run into a problem that's kicking my ass, cost or time or hard work will never get in my way till I figure it out. Love your stuff dude, keep it up!!
Something I came across to help clean up the fuzz off your carving instead of sandpaper was using my sandblasting cabinet with the smaller glass beads. Does an nice job on the small crevices and holes. It will roughen the wood if you stay close on one place for too long. Saves a ton of time, especially on soft fibrous woods.
Have you tried hitting the Vcarve with some shellac or some sort of sealant to reduce bleed under the mask?
agree with several of the other post. use sanding sealer on the soft woods and apply paint in thinner coats. Oracal 631 is good and not expensive.
I agree with below comments. I would definitely do another video, spraying a couple coats of clear sealer just before the black. I do cnc signs as well and this is definitely the way to go. Also, instead of ordering g on Amazon tou can also buy vinyl wall paper at Walmart in a pinch. That's what I use because I hate waiting on shipping.
Bonjour,
Je trouve votre systeme d'aspiration super !
Avez vous un lien pour l'acheter ?
Merci
The way you stop the bleed is you lay down you varnish or a base color first. This seals the masking edges then use the fill color.
What has worked for me is spraying with very light coats where there is not wet saturation.. good luck.
Could you provide information on the font and bit you used?
I'm new to cnc but I have a lot of experience spray painting over vinyl. The trick is multiple light layers to prevent bleeding.
have you thought about using shellac before applying the mask?
hi, just curious, what v bit did you use?? as I like all the different fonts and sizes
Can this vinyl oramask, be used with laser? Or will it burn?
I can’t get ora to stay down, I’ve had it pull up off my material every time and couple times it wrapped up the bit so I’ve quit using it. :(
I totally agree with the fonts issue. The world has way too many fonts to select from!
thats some good stuff, turned out good. good tips
Did the oramask mess up your bits and make them dirty?
fabulous machine, what is it? I am interested in acquiring one, could you tell me, please
Its wicking into the wood grain, the best practice for spraying is to use shelack, coat it a couple times before spraying.
The bleeding is most likely happening because the grain is soaking up the paint. I switched to regular house paint because the spay paint seems to be too thin. I havent had trouble with bleeding since then. Sealing the wood probably would do the same thing.
thanks for showing the two methods, great job at putting the vid together
You can try using acrylic water based paint to fill your letters with a paintbrush that does not bleed into the grains like your spray lacquers do ever since I started using acrylic to fill letters I have no more bleeds
If you prefinish then lightly sand to make it smooth, use a laminate roller to press the vinyl to make sure it is evenly stuck to wood you will avoid the bleeding. I've been using this method for quite some time. using Oracal contact paper,It's really helpful when using multiple colors. also when using soft wood spray it with varnish after after you machine to seal the wood so paint won't soak into the porous grain.
Heh. Your commentary is pretty much identical to my mumblings while I'm in my shop. So now I know what to expect. Thanks!
I like blue painters tape and green frog tape to prevent bleeding
I've used transfer tape for my 15 years in the sign business. After carving use some sort of clear coat where you carved it will seal the edges so there will be no bleed when you paint on your color coat. I like Zinzer's Shellac in a spray can. Try it you'll like not having to sand out the bleeding! Thanks for the video!
I am definately going to try spraying like everyone has said. I don't think I have ever seen that brand of shellac around here. I'll have to look a little closer next time I go to the store.
I've used a similar mask on poplar. First I applied 2 LIGHT coats of clear shellac. I then applied the mask and did the V Carving. I then applied a HEAVY coat of clear shellac. Once dried, I sprayed the desired color. I had virtually no bleeding at all.
I thought about spraying after the carving and not before. I'll have to do some testing. Thanks for the reply.
You put 2 light coats over the entire thing, and then a heavy coat on the vcarve itself??
@@TimothyArmstrongamblixVR Yessir, that's exactly what I did and I had ZERO bleeding.
With the rolled things with peel off backing...before applying, reroll the piece opposite the way it came after you cut off the roll. it makes it easier to apply.
I have found if I spray a coat or two of poly first the mask sticks better and it hardly ever bleeds. And yeah, I hate picking fonts as well. I have started doing my fonts in PowerPoint and saving as a jpg, then open it in Inkscape to turn it into an svg. It gives me tons of fonts that are free downloads.
Parks N Rec in the back! That's my jam
That's The shit . Super badass bro . Keep posting those videos man
Don't be afraid to reset your z height slightly lower and re-run the cut file (before you remove from the CNC)... this will help you get those details deep enough to account for the masking and help prevent them from sanding away so easily. Lighter coats spread over more time also help reduce bleeding if you're not clear coating prior to paint. One last thing, the masking method you used here works great for color filling acrylic.
Great video, I do the same process but I like to use the paper transfer tape. It's about half the price of vinyl. I also seal soft woods with a coat or two of spray on shellac or Deft lacquer before painting. Really reduces the bleeding.
Before applying the masking sheet, spray the wood with a sealer, then carve it with a CNC and seal the cut grooves with clear lacquer to prevent bleeding before applying the black. Then why not remove the masking sheet and sand the surface with a sander? Sorry for the strange English. English is my second language.(Machine translation)
To prevent the bleeding into the work around your cuts, first spray a clear-coat, let it dry and then spray your color. The clear-coat will seal up the wood and prevent any bleeding! Learned this the hard way doing some multi-color signs a few years back. Since then I have NEVER had issues with paint bleed.
Thanks for that tip, tried your method and sure enough....NO BLEEDS!!
Never totally wet the surface applying one heavy coat of paint. Far more effective applying 4-5 very very light coats. No chance for paint to bleed through the grain, soft or hardwood. Also no sealer coat required 😊. I enjoy your videos
Great video. I’ve heard if you spray clear let it dry and then spray black that stops the bleeding.
I think that's the key when using softer woods. If I were using walnut or pecan or something I bet it wouldn't bleed. Pine poplar oak stuff like that definitely could use a sealer before paint.
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 my first thought, too, I clear layer will bleed invisibly, but try it on test piece to see if the bleeding really invisible. reverse of a car, clear coat THEN color coat :)
when spraying the inclined faces of v-grooves, what about inclining the spray 45 degrees to L moving L to R, the incline R, move R to L ?
You are right about the clear bleeding, if you try to stain the piece after painting it won't take color evenly next to the lettering. I have had this issue. I also recommend using the same clear for finishing that you used for sealing.
May get less bleeding with a thicker acrylic paint instead of a very thin spray paint. Thanks for posting.
Cool video, thanks for the tip! That was a pretty wet spray. Do you think some light layers of paint would be effective? Thanks again
Might I suggest using a roller and paint than using spray paint. The reason being the ordinary paint is thicker
Last video was over a year ago. What happened to you?
I'm now to the world of CNC, and I'm trying techniques like this masking. This video was great to watch, and all the comments help with my plans for my next project. I have to ask, did you create the SVG of Ron yourself or did you find it somewhere. My wife loves the show and I'd like to try to make something for her with his image on it. Thanks.
Thanks would it help if you rolled the vinyl down after the cut was done and. Fore spraying? Wonder if that would make a diff
Thanks for the demo comparisons!
Have not seen you in a while bud. I have a friend that was a Texas Game Warden and wants to use it as a rough draft for his logo. I’m new to this and having issues changing a jpeg he sent me to svg file that I can alter. Any advice? Thanks bro and keep up the good work
We also love Parks & Rec, especially the earlier seasons. Ron Swanson is the man.
Great video thanks buddy
Great video,I really learned a lot.Thanks
Has anyone tried just plain old masking tape for a small project?
Why use masking at all? Paint the whole thing, then sand the surface.
try using acrylic paint it thicker and won't bleed as bad you can get it at about any craft store
You’ll still get bleed with poplar if you just carve it, paint and sand. Need to seal first and after carving.
that's what I was thinking seal first, but if you don't seal again after carving, then you could still get bleed from the letters.
seal wood before carving and vinyl
Hey Stuff. Another great video. I do a lot of sign carving. Any wood will bleed if too much paint is sprayed. I use sanding sealer on Pine but not poplar. Pine bleeds like crazy. Looks like you might have over sprayed. Oramask is great stuff. The bleeding was not likely due to the mask.
Did you end up trying another one where you sealed it first? If so, did it stop the bleeding?
Not yet. I will be making some signs over the next week or so, and I plan on trying it. I think the majority of the commenters so far have experience with that working pretty good though, so it sounds like the way to go.
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 Sounds good! I need to give this a try. I've been making some signs recently and have been hand painting and it is just way too time consuming. Thanks again for sharing your video and keep up the great work.
I couldnt help but get into the tv show in the background. nice Shop BTW. I got the joke BTW 2. LOL.
Get a large plastic putty tool to use when applying the oramask stencil material. Helps to smooth it out with no air bubbles.
Do you get any gumming of the bit from the vinyl?
First time using it but I didn't notice any.
Thanks man, idk where you live in Texas, but here it’s just dry heat so I have a small window evaporative cooler that helps with the 110 heat coming up!
Nice video!
But now I have an urge to go binge watch Parks and Recreation! Man I miss that show
It's never too late to go back and watch it again. Thanks..
Great video man! Thanks for sharing!
Start with shellac then do your color. Works perfect.
Great video. I’ve been wondering how that would work. Fairly new to CNC, shapeoko 3xl here. I’ve watched all your videos, they have inspired a few of my own projects. I think I’m going to try this next, maybe with some pre-stain sealer first. If it works, I’ll let you know. Keep the videos coming!
I think if you would have done your seal on it first like before and then masked it you would have been fine. I like the idea seems to work just fine. Love the videos keep them coming!
to stop this bleeding paint some mod podge before you paint this seals and stops your bleeds
The TV in the background is very distracting, and may cause problems with copyright for you just a thought, great video and I enjoy your other videos thank you for your hard work. using a hot air gun can help with applying vinyl especially if the surface isn't flat, it allows you to stretch and to a lesser extent compress.
Thanks for watching Dale. I don't usually play anything on the TV other than the screensaver, but I guess nobody got the joke on this one. The last video I made about operating the touch probe I wore a Ron Swanson T-Shirt. In this video I had parks and recreation playing on the TV which is where the quote from the plaque came from. Hopefully that doesn't violate any copyright rules. Thanks for the info about using the hot air gun. I'll have to try it sometime.
stufftokeep youentertained I got the joke as soon as carving began. Nice touch
some kind of clear coat, or a couple layers of thin shellac would get rid of the bleeding. Good vids man, def enjoy them.
"Working with a big piece of wood like this, you might want a helper..."
TWSS!
Guess I walked into that one.
You could have reset your Z height and made it slightly deeper and ran it again to get those finer details to cut without having to try to hand do them. Just a tip for next time. Other that that great video.
Use BEHR Deck paint or Deck stain and you wont have to seal it with clear or use Oramask, just sand it off . Only thing is BEHR is brush only you have to buy a sprayer to spray it. But its well worth it, will sand right off with minimal to NO bleeding, even on soft woods.... You're welcome.
I'll have to look into that.
Instead of sanding why don’t you spray the plaque, let it dry, then put it back in the cnc (using the masking tape and superglue method so you don’t need clamps) and then use a surfacing cutter to take off a sliver off of the surface to remove the excess paint.
If it’s missing cutting parts of the plaque it’s probably due to the plaque warping due to paint on one side... or it’s due to your bed needing a levelling skim. At any rate it’s better to take a slim skim off the surface to begin and then gradually increase it if you miss parts.
I also find that tramming in the head of your cnc makes a big difference in the results... get it right and you hardly need to sand... just a gentle going over with a sanding foam block does it and then seal both sides with poly. Without tramming you can end up with shallow scallops in the surface (like my waste board looks like at the moment after I did some yearly maintenance work and I need to re-tram my carriage).
oramask that you was using is a stenical mask not a full mask like you thought it was
Wrong tool for that font. Smaller diameter straight bit would have carved the letters completely. Thanks for the vid.
That shirt though 😎
Please turn off the TV for the vids.
A coat of shellac would do wonders here.
Oramask 811 or 813
The clear coat trick works when you spray right over the auramask too. It'll seal the microscopic seam right up.
Somebody already said that. Haha
just carve deeper and then the bleed can be sanded right off
Shellac before Oramask
Anyone else hear a little of Ron Swanson in his voice? :P
The TV running in the background is annoying.
tip use a credit card to smooth it out
another tip is after you carve it spray it with poly then paint it it will give it a layer between the paint and the wood
please turn off the TV, very distracting.
Worse thing to use is your hand. Use somethin flat
turn off the TV - it's quite distracting
Cheap painters tape works just as well
Could you please make your videos longer? I like wasting my time.
Awkward to watch, Great vid on what and how not to do.