Paint and Finish a V Carved Project - CNC For Beginners
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- Painting and Finishing a V-Carved Project
More down here ↓↓↓ Click SHOW MORE!
In this video, I’ll demonstrate how I paint and finish a v-carved project.
A lot of this goes back to standard woodworking. I use normal sanding, sealing, painting, and finishing techniques. I’ll go over it all step-by-step.
I’ll also show you how I clamp the project to my Gatton CNC and cut a horizontal keyhole slot in the back of the project.
As usual, if you have any comments or questions about anything I covered in this video, please put ‘em in the comment section below.
Link to Part 1 of this video series, Importing Files from Other Sources: • Importing CRV Files Fr...
Link to the file used to make the project in this video. You must be logged into your V&Co account to download the file, but it is a FREE project: bit.ly/2Mj3ZtR
Thanks for watching!
For more info on a Gatton CNC kit of your own, check out Dave Gatton’s Home Page at:
www.davegatton.com/
Links to tools and products used in this video:
Triple Edge Finder 3-Way Touch Plate: www.themakersguide.com/home/pr...
Horizontal Toggle Clamps: amzn.to/30Id41x
Bosch 3/8 inch Keyhole Bit: amzn.to/2QjGRcc
(Alternate) Whiteside 3/8 inch Keyhole Bit : amzn.to/2HzONDn
Duster Brush: amzn.to/2EwPn2P
Minwax Clear Satin Aerosol Lacquer: amzn.to/2MgbyRk
Sherwin Williams Paint Color Samples: low.es/2VHjiv3
Some links may be affiliate or sponsor links. Purchasing or even clicking through these links will help support me and the content I provide for free.
Thank you very much for your support!
Get your Official Mark Lindsay CNC T-shirts and coffee mugs here:
marklindsaycnc.com/index.php/p...
I’m a proud founding member of the Maker’s Media Network.
Come check us out at: makersmedianetwork.com/
marklindsaycnc.com is sponsored by Harneal Media - a website developing company that specializes in websites for the maker community. Find out more at:
harnealmedia.com/
For more information on, or to download a free trial of Cut 2D, VCarve, or Aspire, visit the Vectric website at:
www.vectric.com/
This video is for informational and entertainment purposes only.
#VCarve #Painting #Beginner - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Hey Mark,
Great video and thx for sharing. Lots of super helpful tips on painting CNC work in this video.
I made this sign the other night after finding the files on vectric. Being my first time painting sign, I googled "how to paint vcarve" and found this!
Very helpful finishing information for a first time sign carver. Thank you so much.
thanks Mark! great tutorial
Great video! Thanks for posting it
Great video love the sign. I make a lot of the similar signs
great video
More great information Mark. thank you as always sir
Thank you, Jeff!
Looks great - terrific Job!
Thank you very much! My wife loves it, so mission accomplished. So far, anyway...
Great tips for sealing and painting. Not to mention sanding....... Thanks Mark.
Thanks for watching, Steve!
Great job Mark! Your system works well for me as well!
Thank you, Lyle! So far, so good!
Just a tip for painting. I seal the wood as you did. I then paint over the carving with a course brush. I then sand off the excess. It’s much faster.
Appreciate you taking the time to share this information with us really good stuff have a blessed day
Thank you, Tim!
That came out fantastic Mark!!
Thank you, Eloy!
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Your extra care shows in the quality of the outcome. Thats a nice looking sign!
Thank you very much!
Great results and good information on the dangers of using a power sander....thanks
Thank you, Grant. It's not really dangerous to use a power sander. You just have to be sure the finish is fully cured before you use it. Depending on the finish and how heavily you put it on, that could take up to 30 days. I just don't have that kind of time to wait around for it. By using a sanding block, I can see if the finish is coming off as dust or if it's balling up and clogging the sandpaper. If it's clogging the paper, let it cure another day. This project was just so small, I went ahead and did it with the block. It wasn't worth firing up the sander for.
NiceJob, I do well at making but Finishing is my weakness. Thanks again
Came out great Mark.
Thank you, Paul!
That Gatton CNC is pretty sweet! So is this project and all the jigs. I gotta' get me a Gatton.
Thanks, Matt! I made all the jigs myself. I did a video on the straightedge jig 2 weeks back. I didn't think the clamping jig warranted a separate video, as it's much the same as the straightedge jig.
I love my Gatton CNC. I should probably do a review on it, but there's no way I could be unbiased. I think it's the best bang-for-the-buck out there for a home hobby guy like me. There are certainly faster, more rigid machines out there - but not for anywhere near what I have invested in this entire build (under $2k - including software!) Best part is, you don't drop one check for payment. You build as you have time and funds. That eases the pain significantly. I really don't think a person could go wrong with one. I mean, every Gatton CNC kit out there, and there are hundreds, were cut on a Gatton CNC. I think that says it all.
Mark, this video was most helpful. I'm new to this type of project and you answered all my questions. The video production was superior to many DIY videos I've watched. As a wood working craft 'do-it-yourselfer' I've subscribed to your channel. Thanks for the help!
Looks good Mark
Thank you, Steve!
Now that's what I'm talking about!! That project looks great Mark. I really love the way that texture looks.
Thank you, Dave! My wife picked out the colors. I was uncertain about the color choices she made for it at first, but when I got it painted, I loved it. I think she made the right choice not to paint the texture lines. I guess that's what I get for doubting her.
again... great video... You are like a wise wizard. By the way... how did you know I was wondering about why you didn't just use the orbital sander?! lol. You explanation made perfect sense and I'm glad I kept listening. Cheers!
nice work man
Thank you, Frankie!
Another great video Mark! I seal the wood before carving, then cover the entire thing with contact paper. The cheap stuff they used to use for shelf liners. I carve through the contact paper, then seal the letters and the rest of the carving and paint the letters then peel off the contact paper. It works very well.
Thank you, Terry. I haven't had much luck using contact paper so far. I must not be using the right sealer (I've tried shellac and cellulose-based sealers so far.) If I ever hit on the right combination, I'll certainly do a video on it. Right now I'm still experimenting.
Thank you
Thank you for checking it out!
@7:28 -- DUDE! your using our place mats! (Thought I was missing one.) Nice finished product. ;-)
Thank you, Richard! Heh - I've had that thing since my old upholstery days. I should really wash the dust out of it, but it'll probably fall apart. It still keeps the project from walking around on the table when I sand, though.
Super cool beautyful
Thank you very much, Ben!
Nice looking sign, buddy!
Billy
Thank you, Billy!
Thanks for sharing, we always check the paint department when we go to the store, they almost always have samples where they mixed paint for training and sell them for .50 cents.
Mismatched paints can be bargains too, but they're mostly gallon sized cans. Even a quart can last an entire lifetime, depending on the projects you do with them. Still, it's hard to beat the coverage they give you.
Mark, I've done it this way when it's multi-colors and rough wood but my go to method has been apply several coats of shellac before I even cut the project then a couple coats more over the project after CNC and then spray paint and wipe off with mineral spirits. I am going to look into the sample paints and try this method. I'm just not as steady handed as I use to be. Thanks for the video, I always learn something new from watching them.
Thank you, Larry! I've tried a few different methods, and this one seems to work best for me. The main thing is the seal coats have to cure, and it's so wet here in Oregon, that can take several days. I find that 2 thin coats of lacquer to seal the wood before paint is just thick enough to keep the paint from bleeding, but not so thick that I have a gooey mess when I go to sand back. The heat generated by the RO sander just turns shellac into a putty-like consistency if it hasn't had several days to cure. That's less of an issue in the summer, when it's dried out for the most part and the humidity isn't a problem anymore.
Thanks, Mark. As a committed spray painter and RO sander, I will definitely give the paint brush and hand sander a try. Just thinking of me with a little artist paint brush has me giggling, but I can't argue with your results at all. Thanks again for taking the time to share with us.
Thanks very much, Mike. It's not that I'm against spray painting and using the RO sander - it just hasn't worked well for me. I've had a couple of huge messes that I ended up scrapping because I couldn't get it cured and cleaned up in time. I get a better result this way, but that's just me. Remember that I'm a home hobbyist - I'm not trying to make a living with this. If I were in a production shop or dealing with a higher volume, I'd be looking for ways to use spray equipment and the RO sander to speed things up. I've been thinking about trying an airbrush rather than the artist's brush. I just need to get one and try it.
@@MarkLindsayCNC I'm also a home hobbiest. Software geek by day. I've done a few dozen signs over the last year, first with a palm router, now a little Piranha Fx. Between tape and general messiness of spray paint, it can get frustrating. Oddly enough, it never occurred to me to try two coats of sanding sealer. Anyway, a couple new approaches are now at hand. Take care.
Hi Mark, great video. Have you tried using Orcal 631 vinyl (or similar vinyl) to help detailing your sign with paint. One way I often use is to seal the wood plaque first, let it dry, then apply a vinyl over the plaque then carve the details...then paint the different areas with color paint or color paint markers , remove the vinyl and apply my final coat. I find its very fast and less tedious when you have intricate details. Just another way of doing it. keep up the great videos. I love the way you explain and demonstrate things.
Thank you very much, Andre. I do value our opinion, and sincerely appreciate it. I've not tried Oracal vinyl yet - mainly because I keep forgetting to order some. I did try clear contact paper, but was less than happy with the result. I think it would come in extremely handy for woods with open grain, where paint would still get trapped even after sealing. I'll get my hands on some and give it a try. Thank you!
Thanks Mark. I liked the lacquer seal coat. I always use shellac and tired of it sticking in sandpaper. Also, really liked the paint sample idea, it seem to cover better than acrylic paint. Going to get some for next project. Waiting for your next video. Are you going to the Vectric Denver User Meeting?
Thanks very much, Rick! Sadly, I won't be able to make the Denver User Group meeting. It just isn't in the travel budget this year. Hopefully next year I can swing it, depending on where it is.
4:45 u should have included this *sealant step* in video. It helps with memory recall and visualization of the proper sequence of events, especially someone new to sign making and wood working
Very nice Mark. Usually I seal with shellac and then spray paint, then use my thickness planer to clean it up. I've been thinking about using a water based Varathane from HD, then a paint with a water based house paint. This should allow me to wipe off any paint outside the lines with a damp rag. Just thinkin.
Thank you very much! If your shellac is cured, you can use water-based house paint right over the top of it. I do, and it works fine. I don't use the planer for a couple of reasons: I don't want to risk planer snipe, and I don't want to risk one of the blades catching a small detail (like the center of an O or P, and ripping it out of there. If it works for you, I say go for it. I just know my luck - that's all.
I agree about the risks. I usually will make my piece longer to allow for snipe, but I am interested in an alternate way and that's why I liked what you did. So I'll be doing that next time.Thanks again
Thanks.ive been using clear acrylic aerosol because its very clear...and doesnt do well.i used to use water based polyurethane liquid .but dodnt like the yellowing...it did seal very well though since its much heavier coat compared to aerosol.....i wish there was an easier quicker method...ive seen people use mask material and then carve..but that doesnt work well..the mask comes off when carving.
Thanks for this, Mark. Finished product looks great. Any recommendations on the acrylic brushes you used to paint the letters?
I just grabbed a set of artists brushes for acrylic paints from my local Wally World. I think the set was somewhere around $5.00 US.
@@MarkLindsayCNC sounds good. Thanks.
Great tips. How do you know that using an orbital sander will melt the finish?
I asked you not to ask me that...
Mark Lindsay CNC I swear you said “Ask me how I know.”
Great sign and finish, but I have a problem deciding what sign to make could you give us an idea of where you get your sign ideas please many thanks keep up the great work and vids
Thank you Mike. That's a tough question. I have many sources, but the greatest source is the people I talk to. I have a wife, 5 kids, and 5 grand kids, and they all want stuff. So there's that source. They all have friends, so there's that source. We have friends, etc... You get the idea. I also pay attention to things I see when we're out and about. Little slogans, sayings, icons, etc... It's hard to put a finger on any one place I get ideas from. I'd start with something you want or need, and go from there. If you don't want or need anything, you probably know someone who does. People will tell you what they want/like, and the ideas will come if you look and listen.
@@MarkLindsayCNC thanks very helpful
Hi Mark great video. Couple Of questions if I may. 1) what type of wood did you use? 2) what are your thoughts on using MDF for sign making. I’m just starting out and only have a mini engraver 3018 to learn and then see what happens. Cheers Paul
Thank you, Paul! 1.) This project was cut from Cherry. I love how it darkens as it ages, and I think it's an underappreciated wood. I love working with it. 2.) I don't like working with MDF. It has its place, and it can be used to make interior signs just fine (it has been used in sign making for years.) I just don't like the way it cuts or the mess it makes. If you decide to use MDF, have a good plan for dust collection. It produces a fine dust that gets everywhere - and I do mean everywhere. You'll also want to remember to seal and/or prime MDF before you paint it. You'll get a much better finish that way.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Hi Mark thank you for your reply. You don’t mention a need for sanding when using MDF! I’ve sanded it in the past and always end up with a rough finish, is there a way around this? I’m talking around the edges of the engraved areas. Hope I have explained this correctly. Cheers Paul.
Hello Mark, Did I understand you to cut the keyhole with a V-Bit? Please explain how to do this. Great video! Thanks
No, I accidentally edited a part out of that. I used a v-bit to set the X and Y zero because it's easier to put the point of the bit directly over the center of the crosshairs I drew. Once I had the X and Y set to zero, I put my keyhole bit into the collet and set my Z zero. I did a video on the keyhole process, here: th-cam.com/video/SblFFBq2bxo/w-d-xo.html
@@MarkLindsayCNC Oh! okay. You scared me for a minute.LOL I will go to your link and review the keyhole method. Keep em coming.
Another excellent video. Why did you center your keyhole slot along the long axis and 1 inch from the edge of the vertical sign versus centered at the top, less the 1 inch? Won't the sign drift to roughly 45 degrees. What am I missing? Thanks Gerry
Thank you, Gerry!
I don't think you're missing anything. The horizontal slot on a long, thin piece like this lets me adjust it from side to side as I hang it, to make sure it hangs level. Wood density can change over lengths like this, and one end can be just a tad heavier than the other. If I put a vertical slot in the center of it, I'm pretty much stuck if one end is heavier than the other.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks Mark - I'll have to give that a try.
Have you showed how to colour fill a carving with a painted board? Like say a black painted board and you want to colour fill the engraving orange?
No sir, I'm afraid I haven't. It's basically the same process, but I have to be very careful about getting any paint on the surfaces that have already been painted. Make sure your painted surface is completely dry before you go to add the next color - even if that means waiting a day or two between colors. Sometimes I'll mask with a low-tack painter's tape. That's a tape that has a very weak adhesive, which won't peel up the paint when you remove it.
Hi Mark, great video, I am learning so much from you.... will paint stick over lacquer? And if I use for selling acrylic lacquer, does paint needs to be acrylic too? Tnx soooo muchh
Hi Zoran. Yes, and yes. The paint I'm using in the demonstration is acrylic, but I use standard nitrocellulose lacquer. Basically, you can use acrylic paint with any lacquer, but if you use acrylic lacquer, you SHOULD use acrylic paint - NOT an oil-based paint.
@@MarkLindsayCNC tnx Mark for answer 🙋♂️
Thanks Mark. Have you tried Oramask?
Thank you, Jim. I haven't tried Oramask specifically, because, to be honest, I don't do a whole lot of v-carved signs. I have tried other forms of masking with varied results. I just find that for the number of projects I do this way, this is the easiest method for me.
Wonder how an exterior top coat would work over the interior paint in an outdoor applications.
I've not yet had a chance to experiment with that, David. Mainly because I haven't found a decent outdoor clear coat that lasts more than a few years before needing to be stripped and refinished. I have a few pieces that I've done over the years that are hung outside, and I'm kind of using them as experiments to find that finish. So far, nothing that's readily available to the general public through the big box stores is working all that well. I plan on doing a video on that later this summer.
What about putting tape over the stock, then carving through it and painting afterward?
You can try, but the router will most likely tear up the tape as it doesn’t adhere as well as something like oramask
Thank you! Where can I find the first video for making this sign? Can I get the file for cutting it? Thank you and God Bless.
Thank you for not only checking out the video, Becky, but also for making me come back and looking at this video. It would appear I forgot to link the previous video, where I imported the design, made the necessary changes, and cut out the project. I'll fix that now, thanks to you. Here's a link to the previous video: th-cam.com/video/klTtDbcixFA/w-d-xo.html
EDIT: It appears that the file has been moved to a new page. Here's the new link: bit.ly/2Mj3ZtR
Hello Mark, I am having a rather small but pain sticking issue. My Shapoko CNC doesn’t cut through the material evenly. Even though I set cut depth z+0.5 mm (more than what you do on your videos) still at some area the bit gives shallow cut and on other parts it hardly cuts through the material. I am using 2mm ballnose end mill on 4mm MDF with 2mm Pass Depth. Please advise, I am newbie.
The most likely cause is the Shapeoko's table isn't completely flat. It happens. You may want to look into mounting a sacrificial spoilboard, then surfacing it to make sure it's nice and flat. That, or you're possibly missing steps. Make sure everything is tight and your belts are tensioned.
You said in the video that you used a 60 v bit to make the keyhole? Was that an error or did you insert a keyhole bit?
That must have been an error. I definitely used a keyhole bit. (To be honest, I don't remember what I said in the video - lol)
Hi Mark, I have a question about sign making with white pine. It’s the most abundant wood we have. My question is when I vcarve a sign what is a good bit to use? I get wood burs inside my letters which makes it. Pain to clean up. Is there a different bit or should I look towards a different lumber to use. Thank you for your input. Your friend Cynthia
Dave Eister not Cynthia
Softwoods like pine are difficult to carve for that very reason. You have a couple of choices - you can clean them up however you have been, use a rotary tool with a selection of bits and brushes, or you can run the toolpaths twice. On most softwoods I tend to run the toolpaths twice and let the bit do most of the clean up. There will always be a little bit of manual clean up to do, no matter what you do. But I find that running the toolpath a second time, at a faster feed rate, does most of the dirty work for me. This is especially true in cedar. Other than that, choosing a hardwood like maple, birch, or something similar is the better way to go. Sometimes the project has to be done with a softwood because the client requests it. In that case, you just have to deal with the extra cleanup that's involved and charge accordingly. Thanks Cynthia/Dave!
Mark One more question. I must of missed this video. How did you make your dust pickup holder on your CNC? Thanks
i didn't make it. A friend of mine 3D printed it, then sent it to me.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks. Do you know if he posted it on Thingiverse or someplace else? I would love to print on for mine. Thank you
I really don't know. You can go to Thingiverse and search for Gatton CNC. Look for items by the Old English Workshop.
What was the finish coat? I have problems with alligatoring on some paints.
On this project I used spray lacquer. Normally using a lacquer over acrylic paint is a major no-no, as it can cause the alligatoring you've experienced. About all I can say is to make certain the acrylic paint is fully dry (cured) before you topcoat it. I let the acrylic paint on this project dry for a week before spraying it (we had bad weather, so I couldn't get outside to spray it.) I have since tried clear acrylic sprays with varying degrees of success, but have gone back to lacquer over items to be hung on the wall, and rarely if ever handled.
I find the aerosol spray doesnt put a thick enough coat and very costly......but the poly liquid i have used turned the wood yellow....can you recommened any clear finish that wont turn wood yellow?
Water-based finishes tend to be more transparent, but I've never used them on a CNC carving. For finishing, I use standard aerosol polyurethanes - 3 coats within about 60 minutes of one another. I then let the whole thing cure for 3 days, finish sand with 320 grit, and shoot one last top coat.
Did you create a tool path for the key hole - is that difficult
Ask and ye shall receive: th-cam.com/video/SblFFBq2bxo/w-d-xo.html
does the interior paint hold up outdoors, or do u only make indoor signs?
Interior paint does not hold up outdoors. For that, you'd want to use an exterior house paint. The big box stores don't usually offer samples of their exterior paints, but some of the specialty paint shops do - i.e. Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore, etc... Check with your local paint stores.
Mark would using tow different color stains work the same way? Spray with Lacquer first, stain the interior letters and design then stain then sand then stain with the different color? Can you please help?
It's been my experience that trying to use a stain over a clear-coat rarely works. A stain relies on being able to penetrate the wood fibers. It can't do that if there's a finish over the wood. Sorry.
It looks real do you write the G code?
Thank you very much! No, I didn't write the g-code. Here's how I did it. th-cam.com/video/klTtDbcixFA/w-d-xo.html
Why not mask the wood with Prakash and carve through it?
Also can you demo gold leaf?
I suspect that 1 mask
2 carve
3 seal with spray lacquer
4 spray size
5 apply Gold leaf.
Your thoughts based on your experience?
Thanks Dan
That’s Ora mask.
This is a very timely video for me, Mark. I've developed severe COPD, so I've been trying to settle on a way to avoid the spray/powersand approach to painting my text and graphics so I can avoid as much dust as possible. I've experimented with brushing on acrylic and wiping off excess with a damp cloth, and that's better. But it can still get a little messy trying to wipe only the area you want to when the paint is still wet.
I've seen a couple of people online saying that they seal the wood with shellac or sanding sealer, then flood the carved areas with acrylic paint. Then they run it through the planer to clean it up. I would worry about messing up my planer doing that. Have you heard of that method?
I've heard of it, but I haven't tried it. I don't think it would hurt the planer any, but I'd be nervous about running a project through it and having the planer snipe the ends. If I had a drum sander, I'd experiment with it, but I don't know about the planer.
@@MarkLindsayCNC I don't have a drum sander (yet) either. But one thing that might be in my favor is that when practical, I cut my sign blanks 4 inches longer than the finished project will be. That way, after planing, it's a lot easier to clamp the board into the CNC without having to worry the clamps being hit by the cutter. And my last operation is a cutout toolpath with tabs so I have the length of the project correct. It also allows you to do your edge profile right on the CNC while you're into it. So I may try sealing and painting just the carving area with the ends still long, then run it through the planer. I think the wasted space for the snipes already on the blank should keep further sniping from happening. I think. But I'll lay in a new set of planer knives beforew trying it just in case. Thanks.
you used a v bit to make the keyhole. how
No, I used a keyhole bit. I probably just didn't show the tool change. Here's how I used the keyhole bit: th-cam.com/video/SblFFBq2bxo/w-d-xo.html
What type of wood was that?
I cut that out of cherry.
I'm not sure why you used a horizontal keyhole slot rather than a vertical one. Apologies if I missed your explanation. I always use vertical keyhole slots.
You didn't miss anything - I didn't explain it. The horizontal slot on a long, thin piece like this lets me adjust it from side to side as I hang it, to make sure it hangs level. Wood density can change over lengths like this, and one end can be just a tad heavier than the other. If I put a vertical slot in the center of it, I'm pretty much stuck if one end is heavier than the other.
With that approach I can see now why you do it. A little like those saw-tooth hangers. I usually cut two keyhole slots, at the ends. The only issue then is drilling screws at the same level.
I've been doing the horizontal keyhole thing for years on the router table, and just started doing it on the CNC about a year ago. (It's easier to change the bit in the CNC than on my little router table.) It works very well.