Now I can see why a refurbished receiver would cost so much ,a lot of time & knowledge to do this job. I would never attempt this far beyond my ability. Great video many thanks.
On the color of the dial lights...the original Marantz dial from 1970-something would have been a very distinctive blue. Not green, not greenish blue. The color turns greenish over time from the yellowing of the plastic housing and of course, the diffuser paper. A lot of people just get used to the greenish color because they don’t remember the what it looked like 50 years ago. The incandescent lights will give you the closest to the original, but if you’re going with LED, I’ve found the warm white LED lights look the best and the most natural in everyday light. If you find them too harsh, you can always up the thickness of the vellum, or I’ve even used multiple layers of vellum to help tone down the sharpness of the LED so they look more natural. It should be a soft glow across the whole dial, not little blue spotlights jabbing into your eyes, which is what some replacements look like. And I cannot stand the blue LED lights. They just look wrong on a Marantz and burn my eyes. That’s how it looks to me anyway. Everyone’s mileage varies though. Nice video.
I totally agree with you. MARANTZ is forever. I bought a brand new 4270 Stereo 2 + Quadradial 4 Marantz in 1972. It's 50 years old now and still trucking. I think I paid $730 dollars for it in 1972 which was outrageous for the times. Now I'm going to buy a new AV home theater system for my den. It will be a Marantz of course.
The reason the blue looks "wrong" is because blue LEDs are very monochromatic, vs incandescent, which is full spectrum with a filter that's not a perfect filter for colors other than blue. Letting other colors through makes the blue softer and less harsh on the eyes. Sometimes a trick you can use in situations like this where the LEDs aren't visible directly, but the light is being mixed through diffuser paper, is mix some green LED in with the blue. You can use different resistor values for both green and blue to customize the color, but adding even a little green in breaks that monochromatic blue look that pierces through your eyes straight to your brain!
@@gorak9000 Yeah, nowadays you have all sorts of options on color. You can get colored LED lights, you can even use colored vellum diffuser paper, you don't have to stick to the white. You can mix and match to whatever color and sharpness you want, essentially. The original looks best to my eyes, but some people like to mix it up.
I do as well. I refer to it as a shade of Azure. Facts are, the dial is blue. (Back of the plastic) incandescent light, is yellow. The original vellum was made in Japan years ago, and is not white. It is and was, a shade of off white. The vellum today is WHITE with grey tint. So, yellow light, yellow ish paper, means a blue dial with green tint just like the brochures. Just like the NOS Marantz ive owned. It wasnt BLUE. it was Marantz blue. They diddnt want it to look like Pioneer. Or other blue units of the day. Vellum that's not been exposed to heat, and never seen the light of day, doesnt get yellow. Ive seen it, i currently own it. So, Others who say it was always blue, are wrong. Using GLUE on the back of the meters is also WRONG. You sir, with you like for the greenish dial is inspiring. Ive developed a formula to keep it original, just like my NOS stuff, and brochures. Unfortunately, many people eyes cant tell it ever had a green tint to it.
Excellent video. I agree with you, I did five receivers restoration and original incandescent lamps looks better and for AM, FM I use led too. By the way, if the stereo lamp doesn't turn on after you replace, you need to go to MPX board and have one trim that is 19MHZ and just turn from one side to another, when stereo lamp shows on, that's the correct position, you all set.
We just replaced the bi-pin bulbs with LED's on my Marantz 2265 and the STEREO indicator light is not working. I see two 19KHz trims on my MPX board LPF. Did you have to adjust 2 trims?
@@martyjones2679 Hi Marty, I have the same issue. Stereo light doesn't work when I'm in FM but it works when I switch over to Phono, Tape, or Aux. Have you figured out the issue? Thanks!
I was really just planning to change the broken tuner string on my M2245, but then stumbled upon this amazing DIY video. I'm new to this, but now I'm gong to try to change all lamps, vellum paper, etc. :) Thanks and Greetings from Denmark!
Just picked up a 2235, Awesome video and I completely agree on the bulbs.. While LEDs are great. Im going with new incandescents on my 2235 just like I did on my Sansui 7070.. Im all about it looking the way it came outta the factory.. Thanks for sharing the tips & tricks!
Aiden, You can use a red LEds on the stereo indicator and get reliability as well. Use standard 5 mm LEDs with a 1K res in series with it, In almost all brands of vintage receivers this lamp has a 12 volt source and the multiplex circuit provides a ground to light the Incandescent lamp originally installed. The 1 k resistor limits the current to that led to about 5ma...It should last forever at that rate. Polarity is of course required.. I have used this method on hundreds of units with NO future failures ... Just my experience.. I like to make my own fuse lamps using warm white Surface Mount LEDs and a current limit resistor (usually 75 ohm ) in series with two leds . I etch my own fuse boards and reuse The fuse ends of failed incandescent lamps. When done the Marantz units look very close to original only a bit brighter. Cheers.
Well done, I was leaning towards LED until I watched your video....now I'm relamping as you did, just can't undo from that beautiful original look. I have the 2250b to revamp now then it goes in the rack with my other gear, and a 2220. Also pioneer sx 1250, just finished cleaning, completely original. I was in my early 20s when these hit the market. Great job.
What a great visual comparison for those wanting to do lamp replacement to make the right decision. The effort involved is appreciated. Still looking to score a Marantz of my own, though my decision is now made for choice of illumination!
I know I'm late to this but wanted to add you can use a car fuse puller ($2 bones) to get those dial lamps out. Also place painters tape around the faceplate bolts to keep from marring the metal.
Well done Sir, Because you answered all my questions especially the weight of the vellum paper. Have a Mod 125 FM Tuner (very similar). But, my God what were they thinking all those indicator lights are soldered, do not have $300 solder vacuum. Also Thanks for posting your friend with lights, I will go there for sure, I want to do Green for the VU meters.
Great job I really enjoy your attention to the small details. looks good to me. Now I know how to fix my many marantz receivers , and choose the proper lamp options and colors thank you.
Awesome video ! I was recently given a Marantz 2250B . Very excited to start working on it “ slowly “ . I have zero experience refurbishing electronics but no better time then now to start . I think if I can get past actually cleaning the inside and deoxit the pots that will be step 1 . Step two maybe try the light replacements , although only the front one is burnt out and the pointer light and one VU meter bulb . Probably better to change them all out once you have to take it apart anyhow . This video will help me step by step ! Thanks again 🙏🏻
This is a great video. I want to replace the vellum paper in my 2220b that my son gave me a few years ago. It also has a bent corner on the face plate but it sounds great.
Ultimate Guide she be!!!! Thank you so much for the video, EXTREMELY thorough, and precise. The extra work you put in with the comparison of all the LED vs. incandescent is priceless. I fully agree with your end choice. All the information along with examples of different colors side by side with the scientific explanation of the diffusion and beaming of the LEDs makes my decision for my 2230 simple and best it can possibly be. Where did you source the paper? And I bet the old paper was not acid free like the new paper is these days. The acid was a reason for the yellowing with age. Once again can't thank you enough for the vid and ALL the links. No apologies required for focus, the generosity of your time is outstanding. Best wishes and looking forward to more super fine videos from you sir! 👏👏👌👍🙏
@@AHFixIt Thank you sir! I think you mentioned 40 something pound weight. That is not the thickness of the paper, it is what a ream of that paper weighs. A ream is 500 sheets. I know this from working in printing too many years. Your video is going to save me money and enabled me to do justice to a copy of my original first receiver back in the day. And you earned those kind words.
There is an easy way to do things and a hard way. I replaced all my bulbs by going in through the back. It took 10 or 15 minutes. I used LED's and it looks PERFECT. I used royal blue which is a clearly deeper blue than the deep blue in this video. If anyone wants to do it the easy way I would suggest hunting down a video that tells you how to access the bulbs through the back.
Some of the older units have the lamp circuit board held in with tabs that just fall apart. You can use superglue and tape to reassemble . . . but my 2216B meter lamps are in a 100% old plastic housing with tabs . . . no screws at all, and you have to go in through the back. Not looking forward to breaking those tabs.
Do you need to align the FM pointer to the dial (so that it is pointing at 89.3 when tuned to 89.3)? Or is it sufficiently captured so that it does not go out of alignment? Really nice job on the video!
Maybe I missed it, but can you talk about why the red indicator lights are better off incandescent? I think you mentioned something about the circuitry...? Thanks
My only wish is for Marantz to re-issue the 70's retro model into the current line of receivers with updated speaker ports, modern capacitors, metal casing & black faceplates.
Hi, how many hours do you think it would take to do what you are showing in this video? I do have some experience with electronics, and I'm handy with tools.
I am just about to embark on a re-lamping of my Marantz 4415 amp with confidence from your video and lamps from Wojo in Michigan. The I will begin the process of replacing capacitors. I have a question about the use of a variac: It is good to use after a device has not been used for a while, to allow the capacitors to-re-form. How long is a long while ? Does six months count? A year?
Love your video !! Hey, I have a question. I live in Michigan and I have a vintage 2325 that was given to me that doesn't work . I can't seem to find anyone who works on these around here . Who would you recommend? I know they weigh 75 lbs but, I'd be willing to ship it to the right person to gone through and fixed . Thanks for your time .
The easy fix is to loosen the set screw in the pulley attached to the tuning capacitor, set the pointer to a known strong station, hold the pulley firmly in place while turning the tuning capacitor plates by hand (remove the RF cover....) until the station is clear and centered. Gentle with the tuning cap plates, don't bend them while manually tuning, there needs to be an air gap between them.....
The stereo indicator probably turns on when your Radio station has enough signal strength to go from mono to stereo. Better try out with a radio antenna pluged in. if you havent an antena attach a piece of wire or piece of metal to the port.
Thank you for this great video, watched it several times before doing my led swap. Now nearly completed the velum paper and led’s are in . But I goofed on the tunning string and can’t figure out how to set it back in. Have you done any videos on this for the 2275? Thank you
Thank you so much for these awesome videos! They're super helpful. I'm wondering if you could possibly point me in the right direction on a repair I'm working on. I have a Marantz 2220B that produces a loud pop only when you power it off. If you turn off both speaker selects the pop will no longer occur. I tried cleaning the speaker relay but it didn't help, and the relay itself appear to be functioning correctly. Everything else on the unit works fine and it sounds great. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
the plastic lamp housing degrades due to heat of the incandescent lamps. I prefer to use warm white LED's. Also with LED's you can control the intendency by rotating the LED's away from the front of the recover.
According to what I'm seeing, the green looks to be a nearly-perfect match to the incandescents in the meters. This is the color I most closely associate with the iconic Marantz - probably because of faded vellum. Curiously, this "greenish-blue" next to the other blues mimics the dash gauges on a mid-90's Honda Prelude - where the main gauges are the blue/green and the side gauges are "deep blue". I strive for the green/blue. A purple bulb would be outstanding for the dial pointer! Now..... trying to find them........
The completed receiver when shown with incandescent lamps *actually has a dead or intermittent incandescent lamp*! Check the soldering to the circuit board that holds the clips which the lamps snap into. Invariably, some of those solder connections are bad, having been baked and crystallized by the heat and current draw of the lamps for decades. You will need to remove all the old solder so that you can resolder them properly. Trust me on this.
Have you ever tried replacing the vinyl wood cover with a solid black vinyl cover like that comes on the silver face Marantz’s like a 2252b? I have a 2250b too but hate that wood vinyl look.
Hi thks for the very comprehensive video. When changing the tuner pointer bulb, is there a positive or negative part of the bulb wire? Or it works either way? thks!
Love your videos, thanks. Just curious, I have a 2265B, have never seen the Dolby light on, but would like to----just 'cause---you know. Have you ever thought of re-wiring that to turn on when the stereo lamp comes on? If so How could I do that. I do not have the dolby decoder insert, but It is equipped for one. Mine does not have the front dolby button that this one has.
The function LED's in this video have those white casings around their bases, inside of those is a current limiting resistor soldered to one leg of the LED.
Thanks for the super in depth how to for this receiver. I'm running into an issue with my Marantz 2250b where none of the top row (indicator) lamps turn on nor does the tuner point lamp. I've tried replacing the tuner pointer and one of the indicator lamps already with no luck. Any ideas?
The reason that all the LED's look so so glaringly bright, regardless of which color you used, is because you didn't add series dropping resistors! If you were to measure the voltages across each of those fuse type LED's you'd probably find them at several volts higher than they're supposed to run at. This is because the power supply was designed to push significant current into a bunch of inefficient incandescent lamps, but now that you've replaced them with low-current-draw LED's, the voltages to your new lamps has soared. The LED's will run hotter than normal and eventually fail. You can use a resistor substitution box or a potentiometer of say 500 to 1000 ohms as a test device subbed into the circuit to see what value of series resistor you want to use to tame the LED's; and then you'll need to do some ohms law math in order to determine the wattage of the dropping resistors so that they don't overheat. Also, in my opinion the white dial pointer and white function indicator lamps look terrible, especially at that brightness. The dial pointer housing usually had a strip of blue-green or red color gel material in there so that the pointer had some color to it. The bi-pin lamps for the function indicators probably need some translucent, colored rubber lamp "booties" slipped over them to make them green, blue or reddish-orange.
On the stereo lamp LED problem, is there a link to a schematic or service manual? As an EE who also collects 70s stereo gear, I see no reason an LED can't be used. Unless the lamp is also functioning as a negative coefficient resistor like vintage audio oscillators used. I strongly doubt that. It may be that the circuit needs more current draw which can be done by placing a load resistor across the LED. We need to see a schematic.
Thanks for the video! I had restored a 2216B with blue LEDs and it looks amazing, but I also have a similar 2250B that has burnt out bulbs and a suspect Stereo indicator light as well! I'm really looking forward to what you come up with for that fix.
@@AHFixIt Nice...I'm looking forward to watching it. I haven't touched the unit in nearly two years but now I'm excited to jump back into it. Just ordered replacement bulbs from the seller you highlighted in this video (Great guy BTW and super-responsive!!).
@@AHFixIt Just watch the 2250B Stereo Light repair video. Great job troubleshooting. Do you have any other videos on reading those old schematics? I would have never been able to follow the logic that you did, knowing which trace to follow much less what the proper voltage was supposed to be for a specific component.
@@AHFixIt Thanks for your quick reply! I'm really struggling to find it here in UK. They using GSM here to measure the weight and I just don't know which one to order.
Question. I was scraping of glue from the plastic plate (where the vellum sits) and managed to scrape of some of the dark coloring. I now have some small spots where the light is shining directly through. Have you had this happen before and what would you suggest? some black magic marker or something else?
I have not run into this issue before, but whatever you have on hand that will not let light through should be sufficient. A few coats of marker could do it, if not, find a tape that is opaque, or secure some opaque material to the affected areas.
People, don't do half job. Anytime. Anywhere. Doesn't the logic tell you to dissolve old glue (and paper) in order of not scratching colored glass (plastic). These DIY jobs lmost always destroy nice vintage hi-fi pieces. Soak the places where vellum was glued and be very careful. Do not pry with your fingernails, box cutters an other sharp objects. I am generally very disappointed in how some people treat "restorations" and use LED lights, stupid colors etc. But that's only me.
I was around in the 70s when these Marantz receivers were the unit of choice. Seeing this one all fixed up almost brought tears to my eyes.
I totally agree that the original bulbs look the best maintaining the beautiful OEM look.
Now I can see why a refurbished receiver would cost so much ,a lot of time & knowledge to do this job. I would never attempt this far beyond my ability. Great video many thanks.
Very labor intensive video, very informative, best marantz light replacement video on TH-cam and there are many ! Thank you ! You're appreciated.
Thanks!
On the color of the dial lights...the original Marantz dial from 1970-something would have been a very distinctive blue. Not green, not greenish blue. The color turns greenish over time from the yellowing of the plastic housing and of course, the diffuser paper. A lot of people just get used to the greenish color because they don’t remember the what it looked like 50 years ago. The incandescent lights will give you the closest to the original, but if you’re going with LED, I’ve found the warm white LED lights look the best and the most natural in everyday light. If you find them too harsh, you can always up the thickness of the vellum, or I’ve even used multiple layers of vellum to help tone down the sharpness of the LED so they look more natural. It should be a soft glow across the whole dial, not little blue spotlights jabbing into your eyes, which is what some replacements look like. And I cannot stand the blue LED lights. They just look wrong on a Marantz and burn my eyes. That’s how it looks to me anyway. Everyone’s mileage varies though. Nice video.
I totally agree with you. MARANTZ is forever. I bought a brand new 4270 Stereo 2 + Quadradial 4 Marantz in 1972. It's 50 years old now and still trucking. I think I paid $730 dollars for it in 1972 which was outrageous for the times. Now I'm going to buy a new AV home theater system for my den. It will be a Marantz of course.
I actualy prefer this greenish/turquoise color on my marantz..
The reason the blue looks "wrong" is because blue LEDs are very monochromatic, vs incandescent, which is full spectrum with a filter that's not a perfect filter for colors other than blue. Letting other colors through makes the blue softer and less harsh on the eyes. Sometimes a trick you can use in situations like this where the LEDs aren't visible directly, but the light is being mixed through diffuser paper, is mix some green LED in with the blue. You can use different resistor values for both green and blue to customize the color, but adding even a little green in breaks that monochromatic blue look that pierces through your eyes straight to your brain!
@@gorak9000 Yeah, nowadays you have all sorts of options on color. You can get colored LED lights, you can even use colored vellum diffuser paper, you don't have to stick to the white. You can mix and match to whatever color and sharpness you want, essentially. The original looks best to my eyes, but some people like to mix it up.
I do as well. I refer to it as a shade of Azure. Facts are, the dial is blue. (Back of the plastic) incandescent light, is yellow. The original vellum was made in Japan years ago, and is not white. It is and was, a shade of off white. The vellum today is WHITE with grey tint.
So, yellow light, yellow ish paper, means a blue dial with green tint just like the brochures. Just like the NOS Marantz ive owned. It wasnt BLUE. it was Marantz blue. They diddnt want it to look like Pioneer. Or other blue units of the day.
Vellum that's not been exposed to heat, and never seen the light of day, doesnt get yellow. Ive seen it, i currently own it. So,
Others who say it was always blue, are wrong. Using GLUE on the back of the meters is also WRONG.
You sir, with you like for the greenish dial is inspiring.
Ive developed a formula to keep it original, just like my NOS stuff, and brochures. Unfortunately, many people eyes cant tell it ever had a green tint to it.
Excellent video. I agree with you, I did five receivers restoration and original incandescent lamps looks better and for AM, FM I use led too. By the way, if the stereo lamp doesn't turn on after you replace, you need to go to MPX board and have one trim that is 19MHZ and just turn from one side to another, when stereo lamp shows on, that's the correct position, you all set.
We just replaced the bi-pin bulbs with LED's on my Marantz 2265 and the STEREO indicator light is not working. I see two 19KHz trims on my MPX board LPF. Did you have to adjust 2 trims?
@@martyjones2679 Hi Marty, I have the same issue. Stereo light doesn't work when I'm in FM but it works when I switch over to Phono, Tape, or Aux. Have you figured out the issue? Thanks!
I was really just planning to change the broken tuner string on my M2245, but then stumbled upon this amazing DIY video. I'm new to this, but now I'm gong to try to change all lamps, vellum paper, etc. :)
Thanks and Greetings from Denmark!
Have I got the video for you! th-cam.com/video/zlxGeRYEQoI/w-d-xo.html Different model but should still be helpful with the tuner restring.
@@AHFixIt Great thks! indeed helpfull:)
Just picked up a 2235, Awesome video and I completely agree on the bulbs.. While LEDs are great. Im going with new incandescents on my 2235 just like I did on my Sansui 7070.. Im all about it looking the way it came outta the factory.. Thanks for sharing the tips & tricks!
Thank you so much for this video, I just finished this weekend to do exactly what you are showing on my Marantz 2270.
Great Comprehensive Video on changing Lights in a Marantz 2250B Receiver,Very Enjoyable.
Aiden, You can use a red LEds on the stereo indicator and get reliability as well. Use standard 5 mm LEDs with a 1K res
in series with it, In almost all brands of vintage receivers this lamp has a 12 volt source and the multiplex circuit provides a ground to light the Incandescent lamp originally installed. The 1 k resistor limits the current to that led to about 5ma...It should last forever at that rate. Polarity is of course required.. I have used this method on hundreds
of units with NO future failures ... Just my experience.. I like to make my own fuse lamps using warm white Surface Mount LEDs and a current limit resistor (usually 75 ohm ) in series with two leds . I etch my own fuse boards and
reuse The fuse ends of failed incandescent lamps. When done the Marantz units look very close to original only a bit brighter. Cheers.
Well done, I was leaning towards LED until I watched your video....now I'm relamping as you did, just can't undo from that beautiful original look. I have the 2250b to revamp now then it goes in the rack with my other gear, and a 2220. Also pioneer sx 1250, just finished cleaning, completely original. I was in my early 20s when these hit the market. Great job.
I think you deserve big credit for doing this, well done. I posted a link over at AK
Thanks for this video.
Thanks to you, I did my Pioneer SX 650 with incandescent bulbs from dcwojo. Very happy.
I've got a set of LEDs but decided to keep the original incandescent lamps after changing the vellum paper on a 2225 purchased in 77.
does the 2225 have plastic or metal housing around the lamps?
To my eyes on my tv, the warm white LEDs looked best, incandescent was too dim, all but the warm white LEDs was too bright. Great video too
What a great visual comparison for those wanting to do lamp replacement to make the right decision. The effort involved is appreciated. Still looking to score a Marantz of my own, though my decision is now made for choice of illumination!
The deep green leds looks awesome
Thanks a lot for your very detailed explanation of how it's done, very much appreciate it, Patrick from the Netherlands
Thanks a lot. That's the best video por lamps replacement of Marantz. Very HELPFUL
I know I'm late to this but wanted to add you can use a car fuse puller ($2 bones) to get those dial lamps out. Also place painters tape around the faceplate bolts to keep from marring the metal.
Well done Sir, Because you answered all my questions especially the weight of the vellum paper. Have a Mod 125 FM Tuner (very similar). But, my God what were they thinking all those indicator lights are soldered, do not have $300 solder vacuum. Also Thanks for posting your friend with lights, I will go there for sure, I want to do Green for the VU meters.
Great job I really enjoy your attention to the small details. looks good to me.
Now I know how to fix my many marantz receivers , and choose the proper lamp options and colors thank you.
Awesome video ! I was recently given a Marantz 2250B . Very excited to start working on it “ slowly “ . I have zero experience refurbishing electronics but no better time then now to start . I think if I can get past actually cleaning the inside and deoxit the pots that will be step 1 .
Step two maybe try the light replacements , although only the front one is burnt out and the pointer light and one VU meter bulb . Probably better to change them all out once you have to take it apart anyhow . This video will help me step by step ! Thanks again 🙏🏻
Check out my preamplifier restoration video for how to clean the pots!
@@AHFixIt thanks I’m on it 🙏🏻👍🏼
Another option for attaching vellum paper is 1/16" double sided tape. It works very well.
Çok güzel ve çok titiz bir çalışma olmuş, çok başarılı teşekürler..
I have a 2265 and my stereo lamp does not illuminate either I can't wait to see your video on how you troubleshoot it
This is a great video. I want to replace the vellum paper in my 2220b that my son gave me a few years ago. It also has a bent corner on the face plate but it sounds great.
A really nice video... I personally like the incandescent all around...
Thanks for all the great information you supply us
Wow that's beautiful indeed, what a talented guy you are. I have a 2285b that needs some work and relamped too, awesome video.
Beautiful job. I gave up at "pull off the knobs".
Ultimate Guide she be!!!! Thank you so much for the video, EXTREMELY thorough, and precise. The extra work you put in with the comparison of all the LED vs. incandescent is priceless. I fully agree with your end choice. All the information along with examples of different colors side by side with the scientific explanation of the diffusion and beaming of the LEDs makes my decision for my 2230 simple and best it can possibly be. Where did you source the paper? And I bet the old paper was not acid free like the new paper is these days. The acid was a reason for the yellowing with age. Once again can't thank you enough for the vid and ALL the links. No apologies required for focus, the generosity of your time is outstanding. Best wishes and looking forward to more super fine videos from you sir! 👏👏👌👍🙏
Thansk for the kind words! You can find vellum on Amazon
@@AHFixIt Thank you sir! I think you mentioned 40 something pound weight.
That is not the thickness of the paper, it is what a ream of that paper weighs. A ream is 500 sheets. I know this from working in printing too many years. Your video is going to save me money and enabled me to do justice to a copy of my original first receiver back in the day. And you earned those kind words.
Excellent video, thanks.
Very nice and complete presentation. Thanks for the posting.
Great Video.
I love silver face Marantz and got many of them all used.
Since this video is about 3 years old, have you tried the newer frosted warm white LED's that are now available?
For securing the dial string on the pulleys after you've slackened the string, use blue or green painter's tape. Works much better than Scotch tape.
Nice and informative, I like the green lamps. Good video.
There is an easy way to do things and a hard way. I replaced all my bulbs by going in through the back. It took 10 or 15 minutes. I used LED's and it looks PERFECT. I used royal blue which is a clearly deeper blue than the deep blue in this video. If anyone wants to do it the easy way I would suggest hunting down a video that tells you how to access the bulbs through the back.
Some of the older units have the lamp circuit board held in with tabs that just fall apart. You can use superglue and tape to reassemble . . . but my 2216B meter lamps are in a 100% old plastic housing with tabs . . . no screws at all, and you have to go in through the back. Not looking forward to breaking those tabs.
Excellent man, thank you. My Marantz will be very happy.
Very good job! Congratulations!
Guy you are a Mr.'M"!
Great video.I have a Marantz Receiver 4240 very beautiful.Thanks!
great video and it may just give me the confidence to do it on mine
The name of that instrument to remove the solder is called " Desoldering Pump".
Great job! I have a Marantz MR230, and one of the 5 knob is missing, do you know where i can purchase the replacement?
Good morning
it's very pretty, are they warm white or cold white LEDs?
Thanks in advance
Do you need to align the FM pointer to the dial (so that it is pointing at 89.3 when tuned to 89.3)? Or is it sufficiently captured so that it does not go out of alignment? Really nice job on the video!
Excellent video! Very time consuming to put this together no doubt.
Maybe I missed it, but can you talk about why the red indicator lights are better off incandescent? I think you mentioned something about the circuitry...? Thanks
My only wish is for Marantz to re-issue the 70's retro model into the current line of receivers with updated speaker ports, modern capacitors, metal casing & black faceplates.
If you got a small bedroom that receivers pretty good to have if you want room sound
Hi, how many hours do you think it would take to do what you are showing in this video?
I do have some experience with electronics, and I'm handy with tools.
I am just about to embark on a re-lamping of my Marantz 4415 amp with confidence from your video and lamps from Wojo in Michigan. The I will begin the process of replacing capacitors. I have a question about the use of a variac: It is good to use after a device has not been used for a while, to allow the capacitors to-re-form. How long is a long while ? Does six months count? A year?
Long while is like 5 or 10 years
Love your video !! Hey, I have a question. I live in Michigan and I have a vintage 2325 that was given to me that doesn't work . I can't seem to find anyone who works on these around here . Who would you recommend? I know they weigh 75 lbs but, I'd be willing to ship it to the right person to gone through and fixed . Thanks for your time .
Outstanding video! How do you calibrate the needle pointer so it's pointing to the correct radio frequency?
The easy fix is to loosen the set screw in the pulley attached to the tuning capacitor, set the pointer to a known strong station, hold the pulley firmly in place while turning the tuning capacitor plates by hand (remove the RF cover....) until the station is clear and centered. Gentle with the tuning cap plates, don't bend them while manually tuning, there needs to be an air gap between them.....
The stereo indicator probably turns on when your Radio station has enough signal strength to go from mono to stereo. Better try out with a radio antenna pluged in. if you havent an antena attach a piece of wire or piece of metal to the port.
Great how-to video! I've got all my bulbs replaced except one. Does the polarity matter when splicing the tuner pointer bulb?
Nope!
Love your work.
Thank you for this great video, watched it several times before doing my led swap. Now nearly completed the velum paper and led’s are in . But I goofed on the tunning string and can’t figure out how to set it back in. Have you done any videos on this for the 2275? Thank you
If you download the service manual from hifiengine.com it contains a diagram showing the string routing
Thank you so much for these awesome videos! They're super helpful.
I'm wondering if you could possibly point me in the right direction on a repair I'm working on. I have a Marantz 2220B that produces a loud pop only when you power it off. If you turn off both speaker selects the pop will no longer occur. I tried cleaning the speaker relay but it didn't help, and the relay itself appear to be functioning correctly. Everything else on the unit works fine and it sounds great. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I would check the dc offset.
@@AHFixIt Will do, thanks!
the plastic lamp housing degrades due to heat of the incandescent lamps. I prefer to use warm white LED's. Also with LED's you can control the intendency by rotating the LED's away from the front of the recover.
My dial is real dim after replacing fuse lights w incandescent. Replaced stereo bulbs w led 8v. Thoughts?
Maybe you can put a translucid yellowish paper in front of the warm white led in order to reach the color of the original bulb ?
According to what I'm seeing, the green looks to be a nearly-perfect match to the incandescents in the meters. This is the color I most closely associate with the iconic Marantz - probably because of faded vellum. Curiously, this "greenish-blue" next to the other blues mimics the dash gauges on a mid-90's Honda Prelude - where the main gauges are the blue/green and the side gauges are "deep blue". I strive for the green/blue. A purple bulb would be outstanding for the dial pointer! Now..... trying to find them........
The completed receiver when shown with incandescent lamps *actually has a dead or intermittent incandescent lamp*! Check the soldering to the circuit board that holds the clips which the lamps snap into. Invariably, some of those solder connections are bad, having been baked and crystallized by the heat and current draw of the lamps for decades. You will need to remove all the old solder so that you can resolder them properly. Trust me on this.
Have you ever tried replacing the vinyl wood cover with a solid black vinyl cover like that comes on the silver face Marantz’s like a 2252b? I have a 2250b too but hate that wood vinyl look.
Hi thks for the very comprehensive video. When changing the tuner pointer bulb, is there a positive or negative part of the bulb wire? Or it works either way? thks!
Works either way!
@@AHFixIt Thks! Changed the fm indicator bulb as well. Need to work on my soldering skills though.
Love your videos, thanks. Just curious, I have a 2265B, have never seen the Dolby light on, but would like to----just 'cause---you know. Have you ever thought of re-wiring that to turn on when the stereo lamp comes on? If so How could I do that. I do not have the dolby decoder insert, but It is equipped for one. Mine does not have the front dolby button that this one has.
Beautiful
I have a maranta 2235b is it possible for you to clean it and replace lamps
Well done! How did manage to not require current limiting resistors for the function LED's?
The function LED's in this video have those white casings around their bases, inside of those is a current limiting resistor soldered to one leg of the LED.
@@AHFixIt Can you advise on where you sourced those?
@@laurgangilbert I got those particular LEDs from irebuildmarantz.com years ago but dgwojo.com should have them too
Excelente trabajo👋👋👋🙋♂
Great job!!!. Thanks for sharing
what is that tool to remove solder. I have a Marantz 2325 with a Dolby and phono light out. Thanks.
nice. very helpful . thank you so much
Purple I bet would look great.
would you recommend a repair center for. marrantz. and pioneer thanks..
Have you tried Amber Yellow colored Led
(there are more orange colored leds available now)
Do you think they wold be closer in hue to an imcandecent?
Thanks for the super in depth how to for this receiver. I'm running into an issue with my Marantz 2250b where none of the top row (indicator) lamps turn on nor does the tuner point lamp. I've tried replacing the tuner pointer and one of the indicator lamps already with no luck. Any ideas?
They're not getting power. Could be a broken wire going to that board.
@@AHFixIt Ok I'll investigate some more. Thank you!
One some units, the power supply for the lamps is separately fused. Look for a blown fuse!
The reason that all the LED's look so so glaringly bright, regardless of which color you used, is because you didn't add series dropping resistors! If you were to measure the voltages across each of those fuse type LED's you'd probably find them at several volts higher than they're supposed to run at. This is because the power supply was designed to push significant current into a bunch of inefficient incandescent lamps, but now that you've replaced them with low-current-draw LED's, the voltages to your new lamps has soared. The LED's will run hotter than normal and eventually fail. You can use a resistor substitution box or a potentiometer of say 500 to 1000 ohms as a test device subbed into the circuit to see what value of series resistor you want to use to tame the LED's; and then you'll need to do some ohms law math in order to determine the wattage of the dropping resistors so that they don't overheat. Also, in my opinion the white dial pointer and white function indicator lamps look terrible, especially at that brightness. The dial pointer housing usually had a strip of blue-green or red color gel material in there so that the pointer had some color to it. The bi-pin lamps for the function indicators probably need some translucent, colored rubber lamp "booties" slipped over them to make them green, blue or reddish-orange.
On the stereo lamp LED problem, is there a link to a schematic or service manual? As an EE who also collects 70s stereo gear, I see no reason an LED can't be used. Unless the lamp is also functioning as a negative coefficient resistor like vintage audio oscillators used. I strongly doubt that. It may be that the circuit needs more current draw which can be done by placing a load resistor across the LED. We need to see a schematic.
What about resistors? I thought leds needed resistors in front of them? Thanks!
Today's LEDs for this application generally have an integrated resistor
Can you show how to show Re-Lamp a 2238 B Marantz
Great video.
Hej flot stykke arbejde med mange detaljer, så når min Marantz Model 4300 skal ha en omgang har jeg fået mange god oplysninger
Thanks for your video. It´s help a lot.
Thanks for the video! I had restored a 2216B with blue LEDs and it looks amazing, but I also have a similar 2250B that has burnt out bulbs and a suspect Stereo indicator light as well! I'm really looking forward to what you come up with for that fix.
I fixed it here! th-cam.com/video/vPUseTTPVHg/w-d-xo.html
@@AHFixIt Nice...I'm looking forward to watching it. I haven't touched the unit in nearly two years but now I'm excited to jump back into it. Just ordered replacement bulbs from the seller you highlighted in this video (Great guy BTW and super-responsive!!).
@@AHFixIt Just watch the 2250B Stereo Light repair video. Great job troubleshooting. Do you have any other videos on reading those old schematics? I would have never been able to follow the logic that you did, knowing which trace to follow much less what the proper voltage was supposed to be for a specific component.
@@SirDokk I have some broken Pioneers that I haven't diagnosed yet. I'll include some troubleshooting in those future videos if it works out nicely!
This is legit Great..
thank you!!!
Nice work.
the best would be incandescent lamps, of course, after having replaced all the lamps and the diffusing paper
Nice ,,,, Very nice...
Great video! What is the weight of the vellum paper?
Thanks! In the video I use #48. I think it could be even heavier, though!
@@AHFixIt Thanks for your quick reply! I'm really struggling to find it here in UK. They using GSM here to measure the weight and I just don't know which one to order.
Do you have a link to the bulb guy Dave??
www.dgwojo.com
Thanks bro.
i have a 2230… keeping it original and stock
Thanks!
Question. I was scraping of glue from the plastic plate (where the vellum sits) and managed to scrape of some of the dark coloring. I now have some small spots where the light is shining directly through. Have you had this happen before and what would you suggest? some black magic marker or something else?
I have not run into this issue before, but whatever you have on hand that will not let light through should be sufficient. A few coats of marker could do it, if not, find a tape that is opaque, or secure some opaque material to the affected areas.
@@AHFixIt thanks
People, don't do half job. Anytime. Anywhere. Doesn't the logic tell you to dissolve old glue (and paper) in order of not scratching colored glass (plastic). These DIY jobs lmost always destroy nice vintage hi-fi pieces. Soak the places where vellum was glued and be very careful. Do not pry with your fingernails, box cutters an other sharp objects. I am generally very disappointed in how some people treat "restorations" and use LED lights, stupid colors etc. But that's only me.
Is a R255 any good ?