Great video, simple and clear. The information about power open and power closed is very helpful. Wiring to M1 and M4 or M6 is easy with your instruction. M4-for power OPEN (4 letters). M6-for power CLOSED (6 letters). Thank you. I hope you will continue your teaching videos. You are really good at this.
The HVAC company that installed a new furnace and heat pump for me had to replace my Honeywell control board with a communicating board. My zones stopped working after that. When I told them that happened they sent someone to fix it. After a couple hours he told me the damper motors (same one you have in the video) were not compatible with the new control board (EWS 3000). But they are not wired up the way you indicate. So I’m going to go rewire them myself so the “PC” out on the board goes to “M6” on the damper motor and see if they are in fact compatible. Thank you for the empowering information.
So much Honeywell instruction online these days seems to be geared toward sales. Its nice to see that content is being produced to help the boots on the ground that are resolving issues for customers On the way a daily basis. Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
great video, thanks for the knowledge. I ran into a Lennox iharmony zone board, the damper terminals on the zone board were NO, NC, & C, my question is would M6 get wired to NO, & M4 to NC, or do i have it backwards, thanks
Hi I have a Fantech SER 700 ERV, an Eco Touch 414728 wall control and a Belimo LF120S US Actuator. Can you please do a video on how to wire it all. I need the damper nirmally closed . Thanks
Because of the easy understanding of this video I subscribe! I do electrical work an this helps out a lot! Good good explaining it making it dummy proof! Lol
thank you for this explanation. Im still confused though. I have a Honeywell hz311 control board. I notice that the m4 always has 24 v no matter if the t stat is calling for heat or not. the m6 has 0. My dampers are durodyne power open / power close. will that be compatible? I would assume that the board would power on and off the m4 / m6 terminal depending on if the zone/t stat was on or off. What am I missing ?
My dampener is wired 124. Never see this in instruction vids. Can u help explain why contractor may have installed like this? Trying to add aux 24v transformer to provide independent power to the motors. Thx
I watched your other video where you explain how to wire and troubleshoot a zoning board, and it’s very good explained, so if you were to add a zoning board system at a house that has a basement, main floor and the upstairs and there’s only one stat. , and you are adding 2 more wireless stat one in the basement and one upstairs Do you need a different zoning board or can that Honeywell do the job? Also can you make a video on how the wireless stats will work and stuff . Thank you.
Trane AC, my zones 1 and 2 stop working. Only zone 3 works. Does this mean a new MB is required? Interesting that I set the thermostat on Zone 2 (main part of house) and air flows through bedroom with Zone 2. Thermometer in zone 3 still controls the AC and blower for temp but all air goes to Zone 2 (???). Any suggestions?
Hey I have vacuum lines going Into the duct work with a vacuum pump on the furnace. It's 3 zones with a circuit board but it doesn't heat the floors appropriately. Idk where to start!
nice video simple . My question is - my customer already has the Honeywell ARD dampers just like your example. If I want the led lights to work when they are open can I add third wire. I believe I can use M4 terminal but I'm not sure if that's a mistake- I already have wires on M1 and M6 the control board is the Honeywell 4 zone HZ432
Do I need to have a power board if I'm only running one damper? Can I just run 24 volt power with a on/off switch. I'm planning to get power open damper.
I'm getting too much cold air in my bathroom and I wanted to use a damper to shut it off and force the air into the other two rooms.@@ACManHeatingandAir
Or you can use iO HVAC Controls zoning. The terminals are simple with PC,PO, and C. these terminals are also matched up with the zone boards as well.. Way simpler..
@@ACManHeatingandAir you can buy these @ your local wholesaler or from online wholesalers. IO hvac controls. I am the TM for the Midwest. Not sure where you are at in the US.
I have radon in the basement even though I have a mitigation system. I'm thinking of installing an ERV that can be triggered to do two things by a radostat when the levels get high. 1-Trigger it into boost mode. 2- auto close a dampener to the upstairs when the radostat triggers so the boost will flush the bad air and return fresh to the basement only until radon levels return to safe and then open back up to the upstairs when levels are good. Any one know of a controller that could accomplish this?
Can you install power dampeners on a system that has manual? Also, will the power closed be more for a heater rather than an AC? So when the heater kicks on it will power close the upstairs dampeners to better heat the lower floor?
One of the best DIY videos I have watched. Clear, efficient, practical presentation. Excellent visual aids and lighting. Well done, you have a gift.
Great video, simple and clear. The information about power open and power closed is very helpful. Wiring to M1 and M4 or M6 is easy with your instruction. M4-for power OPEN (4 letters). M6-for power CLOSED (6 letters). Thank you. I hope you will continue your teaching videos. You are really good at this.
I appreciate that!
The HVAC company that installed a new furnace and heat pump for me had to replace my Honeywell control board with a communicating board. My zones stopped working after that. When I told them that happened they sent someone to fix it. After a couple hours he told me the damper motors (same one you have in the video) were not compatible with the new control board (EWS 3000). But they are not wired up the way you indicate. So I’m going to go rewire them myself so the “PC” out on the board goes to “M6” on the damper motor and see if they are in fact compatible. Thank you for the empowering information.
they should work
So much Honeywell instruction online these days seems to be geared toward sales. Its nice to see that content is being produced to help the boots on the ground that are resolving issues for customers On the way a daily basis. Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
thank you!
@@ACManHeatingandAir hey man tnks so much! How do I close it manually?
What a great way of teaching ! Thank you so much for very informative video
I appreciate you taking the time to show the difference between the different wiring on the actual dampers / Thank you sir.
GREAT SIMPLE EXPLANATION!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you great video, explained very well. Short and simple straight to the point.
short and to the point, well done, sometime small bit get more done, easier to understand the whole system, and at the end one gets the whole project
This is an outstanding video. Short and to the point and cleared up a lot of things for me. Great job and thanks for the video.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you For sharing that was very helpful
THANK YOU AC GUY!!! I have been looking for this exact explanation.
Thank you was looking for such a video for a while it is great simple and short
Great explanation! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great clear explanation.
great video, thanks for the knowledge. I ran into a Lennox iharmony zone board, the damper terminals on the zone board were NO, NC, & C, my question is would M6 get wired to NO, & M4 to NC, or do i have it backwards, thanks
NO=M6
NC=M4
C=M1
Good question!
just found your site, love it will be looking for more content. please do one on sequence of operation on rtu, thanks
Thank you for your knowledge
Thanks, subscribed. I have a power close like the one in this video. Very helpful.
Good explanation - Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Hi I have a Fantech SER 700 ERV, an Eco Touch 414728 wall control and a Belimo LF120S US Actuator. Can you please do a video on how to wire it all. I need the damper nirmally closed . Thanks
Because of the easy understanding of this video I subscribe! I do electrical work an this helps out a lot! Good good explaining it making it dummy proof! Lol
nice! thanks!
thank you for this explanation. Im still confused though. I have a Honeywell hz311 control board. I notice that the m4 always has 24 v no matter if the t stat is calling for heat or not. the m6 has 0. My dampers are durodyne power open / power close. will that be compatible? I would assume that the board would power on and off the m4 / m6 terminal depending on if the zone/t stat was on or off. What am I missing ?
My dampener is wired 124. Never see this in instruction vids. Can u help explain why contractor may have installed like this?
Trying to add aux 24v transformer to provide independent power to the motors. Thx
I have two regular zones ac damper if I go to replace both zone for automatic dampers I have to change board panel?
I watched your other video where you explain how to wire and troubleshoot a zoning board, and it’s very good explained, so if you were to add a zoning board system at a house that has a basement, main floor and the upstairs and there’s only one stat. , and you are adding 2 more wireless stat one in the basement and one upstairs
Do you need a different zoning board or can that Honeywell do the job?
Also can you make a video on how the wireless stats will work and stuff . Thank you.
You would need to upsize the unit
Beautiful explanation thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, so clear 🙏
You’re welcome 😊
Great video, would you be able to help me out thru FaceTime connect wires from dumpers to the zone control panel???
Yes I can
Very well done 👍.
Thank you! 👍
thanks for teaching!!!!
no problem
Trane AC, my zones 1 and 2 stop working. Only zone 3 works. Does this mean a new MB is required? Interesting that I set the thermostat on Zone 2 (main part of house) and air flows through bedroom with Zone 2. Thermometer in zone 3 still controls the AC and blower for temp but all air goes to Zone 2 (???). Any suggestions?
I’d have to see the wiring
That was really helpful
Thanks for making it simple
Hey I have vacuum lines going Into the duct work with a vacuum pump on the furnace. It's 3 zones with a circuit board but it doesn't heat the floors appropriately. Idk where to start!
I need a lot more info to help you
excellent
Many many thanks
nice video simple . My question is - my customer already has the Honeywell ARD dampers just like your example. If I want the led lights to work when they are open can I add third wire. I believe I can use M4 terminal but I'm not sure if that's a mistake- I already have wires on M1 and M6 the control board is the Honeywell 4 zone HZ432
no you cant use 3 for that
@MichaelJjohnson Hi Michael I called Honeywell and they said I could wire up all 3 wires- the middle wire m4 would work the green light
Close = 5 letters 😂. Therefore, MClose = 6 letters. Bingo. Great explanation ❤❤❤❤
it’s “closed” 6 letters. but if that helps you remember it that works also.
What is a scenario where you would need a damper installed?
In a zone system when you want a section of a building to receive or not receive air at certain points
Multiple story house or controlling different areas.
Loved it
Do I need to have a power board if I'm only running one damper? Can I just run 24 volt power with a on/off switch. I'm planning to get power open damper.
anything is possible but if you only have one zone, do you need a damper?
I'm getting too much cold air in my bathroom and I wanted to use a damper to shut it off and force the air into the other two rooms.@@ACManHeatingandAir
Or you can use iO HVAC Controls zoning. The terminals are simple with PC,PO, and C. these terminals are also matched up with the zone boards as well.. Way simpler..
where are those sold? I haven’t seen those yet
@@ACManHeatingandAir you can buy these @ your local wholesaler or from online wholesalers. IO hvac controls. I am the TM for the Midwest. Not sure where you are at in the US.
I have radon in the basement even though I have a mitigation system. I'm thinking of installing an ERV that can be triggered to do two things by a radostat when the levels get high. 1-Trigger it into boost mode. 2- auto close a dampener to the upstairs when the radostat triggers so the boost will flush the bad air and return fresh to the basement only until radon levels return to safe and then open back up to the upstairs when levels are good. Any one know of a controller that could accomplish this?
Cool thanks so much
Where does the blue common wire from the HP condenser go on control panel?
The common wire from condenser is not usually connected to the zone panel
@@ACManHeatingandAir should i wire the Heatpump systems condenser to the airhandler then just airhandler to the control panel?
O gets wired to the zone board as well as Y
What is the red knob for on the actual damper the is labeled “ 0 1 2 3 “
To make the damper close partially
@@ACManHeatingandAir so 1=20% close? 2=30% close? 3=50% close?
Can you install power dampeners on a system that has manual? Also, will the power closed be more for a heater rather than an AC? So when the heater kicks on it will power close the upstairs dampeners to better heat the lower floor?
You have to add a zone board
What if I wire all three m1,m4 and m6? Would it burn the damper motor?
Don't just take my word for it so please do your own research but I believe the M4 would enable the green led light to work.
What is M2 for on the zone control board?
more than likely is the common terminal
Nice!!
Thanks!
More zone videos
Thank you
You're welcome
M6 is power to close it ;
M4 power to open it.
What is M2 ?
I did not understand it .
common
@@ACManHeatingandAir
Merry Christmas
Thanks a lot .You teach HVAC very well.
Please continue
HVAC in France is high paying job.
Not many people know it .
@@dominiquepierre916 thank you very much. I try to slow down to make things clear. if you like the channel please subscribe. I try to upload often.
@@dominiquepierre916 yes! not to mention during the pandemic HVAC was job security.
N
Thank you
You're welcome