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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ธ.ค. 2020
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Hey guys here is the video on how to replace oil filter housing gasket on N20 engine which is 4 cylinder 2.0l turbo engine, same applies to different models such as BMW X1, X2, X3, X4, Z4, 228i, 328i, 428i, 528i with this engine
Thank you for watching - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Only bmw would make you have to undo your intake manifold to access a bolt. Just did my oil cooler gasket and that was fine but have to tackle the oil filter housing and was hoping I really didn't have to loosen the intake smh. Your video had the best angles and explanation!
I followed your video instructions and successfully repaired my son's F30 with the N20 engine. I also replaced the serpentine belt and cleaned the tensioner pulley, as it had a build up of decaying rubber from the belt. The oil leaking from the housing was breaking down the rubber. Also, the alternator, and AC clutch and compressor needed cleaning as well. After completion, I degreased and rinsed off everything that had been affected by the oil filter housing leak. I went very slowly and carefully, and it only took about two hours. If I ever have to do it again, it should only take an hour. Thank you so much for your easy to follow instructions. And, yes; the magnet trick worked perfectly! Thanks again!
Glad to hear it, keep your cars in good shape👍
thanks for the detailed video! I especially like your setting (at the side of a street) to show that you really don't need a garage to do this OFHG.
I have to do this as my dealer said I have the OFHG leak. I have watched a few different videos and I have to say, I love your approach the most to this DIY and the way you explained everything. I plan on using your video as a reference for when I tackle this job. Great job!
Great info. Saving this video!
Thank you. Very useful video.
Very easy to follow and well made video. I easily completed my repair along with you, thanks!!
Great to hear it👍
I’ve been using Zeiten service for years for all my BMWs. He and his team are great at what they do and explain things thoroughly. Highly recommend if your out in the So Cal Area.
Thank you, appreciate your business🙌
But I really enjoy all your videos!!
doing mine today, thanks for the video
🙌👍
Bmw gave me a quote for $863 to have this job done. After watching your video, the job is very simple just time consuming. I’ll just fix it myself💯 great video!
Excellent video, very well done.... All steps outlined in detail and looks easy enough to do... My N20 is just starting to show signs of leakage so it looks like I will be tackling this job in the near future. The funny part and my biggest fear whenever I work on my car is breaking those plastic wire harness connectors...... ugh!
👍
Great video
Thank you
I attempted this job yesterday on my daughter’s 14 X3 28i. The layout of the coolant reservoir and a couple other components was slightly different but the video was an awesome resource. I bought the Elring gaskets from your EBay store and they were great. The bolt under the intake manifold was a bear and I guess it was over torqued at the factory since it was TIGHT but it did come out. When I went to put it back in it was resisting the thread after about two turns. I was using my fingers to get it started but it would not run in. The threads on the bolt itself were fine but I’m afraid that the threads in the head are galled or even stripped from the original assembly. I don’t want to try chasing it because I might make it worse. I’m going to have it towed to a local indy BMW shop to see if they can fix it there. So much for volunteering to do the work for my daughter to save her the $750 the dealer quoted. It’s days like yesterday that make me hate robots and glad that I drive a ‘14 4Runner instead of a BMW X5. Thanks for the tutorial though.
The new factory gasket is much better than the old Elring now made in Japan!!
Good evening everyone, I got everything to tackle this job this week except new bolts, and I just wanted to make sure that I absolutely don’t NEED all new bolts and use the old ones. I paid close attention to his video and it shoes the old bolt being put back when reinstalling the housing. Thanks!
Absolutely don’t need new bolts
Absolutely don’t need new bolts, those are regular steel bolts
Sweet! Thank u so much
Awesome vids brother! Thanks for sharing
Thank you
Splendid video tutorial. I got a question can you coat the gaskets with pure grease (not silicone or lithium)? I have see another video why the person working on this issue say that coating with grease help the gaskets last longer.
Very well done. Very detailed. Great video. Thanks you. I complement you on your DIY instructions. Question: Were those aluminum screws/bolts you reinstalled? Wouldn't they need to be replaced? How much was that job?
No, those are regular screw no need to replace those at all
just bought a 5281 year 2000, 112k miles for 2K. In and out very clean. Before I bought,I brought to my mecanic and said front end needs work and to check for oil leak he wants the car and place a dye in engine to see where the leaks are. I can live with an oil leak for a while but front end I will have done now. Will Liquid Moly placed now cure most of the leak or leaks?
Apreceate your video's they are great and really help with late models Bimmers.
I have a 2007 X5 3.0si . I bought used with 85k and noticed that the front oil cooler seal was leaking so for mantainace I wanted to replace both seals. The cooler came off with out issue. Then when moving to the oil cooler housing attach to the engine the lower front bolt is frozen and the torx is somewaht stripped and I cant get the leverage on it to remove it. The other bolts came off with out issue. Tried to heat...but tough with the position....tried some pentrating oil....no go
What can you do when the bolt holding the oil cooler to the engine will not come loose and is stripped? Found other this tha the previous owner really did a bad job on thaty I have fixed already
Please help
Well, you can take the the coolant hose off (cylinder head to thermostat) and then hammer the proper socket onto stripped bolt, replace the bolt after removal, you’ll probably break that coolant hose so you’ll need to replace that as well most likely
You didn’t drain engine oil? Just removed reservoir coolant?
Hi Tim,
Great to see how it is done on the N20 engine, thank you. How difficult would you say it will be to make the same repair on a B-engine (B48, B58)?
Hi, haven’t touched those yet, we’ll see when they start breaking down😁
Are you not permitted to use brake cleaner? Some of that cleanup work would go a lot faster with a can of CRC Brake Cleaner
How much would u say it costs for everything including labor ?
How much does this job run usually?
Hi mine is also leaking planning to change it tomorrow but also saw that in the coolant theres a little bit of oil, I guess I should flush the coolant system and do oil change
Yep, best course of action although not really necessary
Thank you
Happy to help
Sorry again after doing the job,reconnected the dme and the battery(I only disconnected the negative only) also .the car cranks but doesn't want to start
Check all plugs, most likely something is not all the way in
Hi Bud, I have totally different question for you on BMW X3 E83 2008. I was driving few days back all of sudden "RED color Airbag light plus Yellow color Break light (parking break) and Yellow 4x4 lights came on. There is no engine performance issue it runs fine. any advise bud.
Did you figure out out, sounds like your dash went Crazy. Which could be a alternator problem
If there are no drive train issues or noises, get an ignition switch from FcPEuro and replace the old one. They are not expensive and very easy to replace!
Hi tim. great video and excellent teaching. my vehicle was starting to leak oil from the oil housing>>>>I do have a few Questions to ask Sir:: I did change disassemble my 2013 x5 35i 3,0 litre n55 engine today to replace oil cooler and oil filter gasket, I used Mahle Gaskets, which was purchased from Rockauto.com, Drained/sucked out 3 litres of antifreeze. removed oil filter canister top and the filter ( the castrol oil and mann filter was changed 3 weeks ago),wiped everything dry with shop towels. I did move back the intake as you say. everything went back in good order. I have 1 QUESTION . When i did the run pump procedure, I noticed/hear. it did first run for 30 seconds, then the pump itself would shut off/ stop for about 10 seconds, but it had no issues pumping antifreeze/air out into the resevoir, Again, it did run for 30 seconds of pumping,shut down for 10 seconds.no problem it started right up again for 30 seconds and about 10 seconds it would shut off/stop again.I did this 6 minutes. I then started up vehicle, ran it at idle with the resevoir cap off and watched the water pump continuing, to still pump antifreeze through the small vent hole into the resevoir. I did put my finger down it the resevoir and it felt warmer and warmer after 7-8 minutes and the electric pump still continued to run, The Question is, Is the pump suppose to continue running???.... i mean is it suppose to continued to run contionusly whilst it was warming up???. Is It suppose to run contiinously whilst the vehicle is in operation driving around town or if i am driving along the highway at 100 kilometers??,it this pump constantly pumping antifreeze or sometimes intermittingly?? TY ,, Btw I did replace the the Micky Mouse plastic neck with an aluminum one and also a new serpentine belt and cleaned all pulleys to assure all is ok as the old belt had traces of oil on it,wanted to be safe. thanking you very much Tim for your expertise and professional work you do with explanation in detail ty Sir for your response and help.
Thanks again, the water pump will run continuously if heater is on, during normal car operation it runs intermittently, regarding 30 sec on and 10 sec off cycle it’s completely normal and that’s how it supposed to be during bleeding procedure
@@Zeiten , Hi Tim, Thanking you so much for your help and input and also indepth answer to my lengthy question. !! Have a great day,stay safe.excellent Videos here on Utube!!
Did you guys disconnect the battery before disconnecting the wiring harness?
No, it’s not necessary
Is the expansion tank cap replaced sometime during the bleeding process (like when the car is cranked)? Or, it is put on after the 12 minutes?
You can put it on after 6 mins. 3 mins car not running, 3 mins running car and then put the cap fully on
@@Zeiten Thank you for the prompt response. Your video is so much better than another I viewed in that you have to disconnect far less than they were showing. Much more practical approach. Keep up the great work!
@wn9448 thank you, happy to help👍
I would tell your customers also to disconnect the negative battery
Can I reuse the coolant i drained out ?
Technically yes, but better to fill up fresh one
I need to replace my gaskets do I really need to drain the coolant ?
Just empty expansion tank and you are good to go, otherwise it’s gonna be a big mess and coolant will most likely mix with oil
@@Zeiten yep that’s exactly what happened my friend who was helping was rushing it and oil and coolant mixed now I have to pay for a radiator flush
As i remember 22 nm
You are probably right
Should you do an oil change after this repair?
Not necessary at all
So I did this job yesterday with my dad followed everything step by step when we went to start the car it popped up with a bunch of errors and the water pump won't turn on to drain the engine coolant
Check your connectors for dme, either not plugged all the way or something is not plugged at all
@@Zeiten thanks you I got the car to start but now it is idling weird
Well, you definitely missed something, take everything apart and put it back together except gaskets of course you’ll find something unplugged or connected not right
@@Zeiten soon after the check engine light came on. I ran the code and it says: Primary fix- Replace Evaporative Emissions (EVAP Leak) detection pump module. Secondary fix- replace fuel tank pressure (FTP) Sensor. The primary code is P11C5 EVAP system differential pressure sensor circuit low.
Well check purge valve that is right next to throttle body and all vacuum lines connected to it and from it
What's the gasket brand you recommend?
Elring
How much coolant do you siphon out?
About 2 qrts
@@Zeiten so basically empty the coolant reservoir? I changed the valve gasket today which fixed a small leak on the left side of engine above the o2 sensors. Still have a leak that makes a small pile of oil below the alternator between the intake. Your method seems a lot easier than others when you have to drain the coolant under the car. Thanks again
That’s exactly right😉
@@Zeiten I changed the oil housing gasket today however there is still a little pile of oil at an opening right below to the right of the alternator and intake. I clean it and it slowly comes back after some driving. I inspected the oil housing and don’t see any oil coming from it. Inspected the valve cover and no leak either. Any other ideas?
Check o-ring on oil filter cap
Hi quick question there’s other videos similar but sort of different I watched and is it fine to unscrew 3 bleeder screw half way, pour new coolant, when it stops bubbling out of bleeder screws I tighten it back up, start the water pump/ bleeding procedure, then top off with coolant if needed?
There is no need to overfill expansion tank when it’s electric water pump, it will do the job regardless
@@Zeiten so running the water pump will purge the air out automatically?
That’s what bleeding is for, yes
@@Zeiten thanks for reply, I will be doing it soon
Did this today , got a p0171 after with misfires. Any ideas ?
Intake manifold. P0171 is air leak.. check chargepipe, maf connectors, manifold/manifold gaskets
Wtf ..mobile Bmw clinic lol
how much you going to cost for tis repair? i need your number
You can find us on yelp or google just type in zeiten llc
too many ads - every 10 seconds !
better on youtube