@@fcpeuroI must say that you have done a very good informative video. Keep it up. Anyway, my N20 is already 144,000 km and recently it suddenly lost acceleration after pushing to 2300rpm. It suddenly decelerated. I think the remedy must be related to your video?
Good video, I just did the vacuum pump replacement. A couple of comments: 1. The screws holding in the vacuum pump needed a T40, not a T30 2. On my wife’s 528 it was MUCH easier to reach the vacuum pump from the left (drivers side) Thanks for the tip on getting the seal and how to get out the old one and it took a long time to figure out how to disconnect the vacuum lines from the engine cover. Great video overall, thanks.
Very helpful video. You just inspired me to try to fix this myself. Dealer wanted over 2200.00 to fix. I dont have that kind of money. Thank you for carefully explaining every step. My gratitude to all of you for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Wow you are so complete with your instructions that I am ALMOST convinced to skip waiting for a loaner car and paying the dealer to do it and go buy the parts and do it myself!! Thank you!!! So much! I need more videos for my 528i 012’
I just replaced one on my daughters 2013 X3 with an N20 4cyl. engine. It was a little difficult to get the seal out as well as the T30 screws. There is less room between the pump and firewall. The pump solved all the issues. The pump was full of oil and the check-valves were deteriorated and frozen. Thanks for this informative video.
Thank you for everything. I didn’t know what was wrong with my car I’ve been bringing it to several mechanics and they’ve charged me and couldn’t figure the problem out. This is exactly what’s wrong with my car thank you.
I have the same issue rn. Replaced both 02 sensors, Injectors,spark plugs, completely new turbo kit, timing chain kit, hpfp, and I don’t what it is. I’m hoping this would be the final solution. It’s a 2013 n26 with electronic Wastegate.
The nipple for the vacuum line for the boot has a check valve inside it, and when that rips, oil goes into your boost vacuum lines. They sell the nipple with a new rubber check valve online “N20 vacuum pump repair kit” ~$20 vs $500 is big difference. You can save your pump!!
I agree with boomy818 that it is very possible that one or both of the black plastic nipples ( one large & one small) are defective and the smaller one is the actual reason for oil inside of vacuum reservoir. At 11:01of the video when the vacuum pump is rotated oil leaks out of the smaller nipple but I did not see oil from the larger nipple. Just give some thought. Thank you for the video.
Great video, I had a similar problem with oil getting into the vacuum lines, but all I changed was the non return valve that supplies the waste gate actuator.
When you crank the car @21:16 and there is rattling, I’ve read online that that is the wastegate actuator? Can anyone confirm? My car makes the same noise when first cranked.
I know this is old, but my back piece near the FW was very different. To get access to the back, I needed to take off the windshield wiper arms, to get off that cover that then would allow me take off the piece that was crowding access to the pump. I thought it was going to be a PIA when I first looked at it, but ended up not being as bad as I thought.
Very good video. Do you have please the diagram for the vacuum hoses and other hoses by chance ?. A mechanic worked in my engine and I believe He didn't reconnect the vacuum hoses properly and now I have a Drive Train Malfunction light on
Great video! Question- I have an n20 with EWG, the 2 vacuum nipples on the engine cover have nothing connected to them, what should go on there to be exact? I suspect some previous mechanic didn't assemble my car properly ?
Hi, Nice job and vidéo You Just saved my car with your work and tips I've à question, when we change thé boost solenoid, is there any procedure coding or learning of the new spare ? To set the New settings to the car system ? Thx 😁
Thank you so much for this excellent video on replacing the vacuum pump. This is something I need to do on my 2013 X3. I do have a question associated with the vacuum reservoir. I just replaced the valve cover gaskets and had to remove the vacuum pump to do so. I didn't have a new vacuum pump at the time to replace. But I may have a loose gasoline connection, but I can't see where it's leaking with the coil pack/engine cover on because of the lines connected to the vacuum reservoir. Question is can I run the engine without driving it with the vacuum reservoir removed just so I can see where the leak is coming from? Thank you!
Hi Mark, you most certainly do not want to try and start the vehicle without the pump attached, the massive vacuum leak that will cause is enough to keep it from starting.
Thanks for the video. I have a F10 with N20 engine and recently there is a problem with the vacuum pump. There is an oil leakage but I am now sure if it is from the seal between the pump and cylinder cover or from the pump valve. You said that seal replacement is also needed but is it possible to replace the seal without detaching the cylinder cover? Our BMW local said that replacing the seal itself cannot be done independently but the cylinder cover must be detached. Could you please show me a tip for this? Thanks in advance.
I apologize if this question has already been addressed. I have a 2015 328i N20/F30 I get that drivetrain malfunction but I never get a code. It is my understanding that limp mode drivetrain malfunction or not working at full speed could be anything from intake to gas? I know forsure I am having an issue with the fuel level sensor so I am replacing the lpfp because it's one piece with the sensor and fuel filter. I'm worried it's more than just the fuel level sensor. Is there another way to find out if it is my vacuum pump and boost solenoid? My car is not like this one that you are working on so I would not see oil under the engine cover. Any educating information is greatly appreciated. Thank you your diy videos are well put together and easy to see what you're actually doing..
So mine went today. After watching this the day it came out. I completely forgot to look at my pump when this happen today and went to bmw. I wasn't getting an engine issue light but was getting smoke out of engine on the N26. from dripping oil on the downpipe. Went to BMW and they covered it under warranty because I have the SULEV N26 possibly. Anyhow it was nice to see my 120k engine get something under warranty... I really wanted to do it myself lol I had the parts in the shopping cart and everything.
Hi this video was extremely helpful. I do have a question, If we have an engine where the westgate is controlled electronically, would we only have to change the vacuum pump AND also the Westgate? Or just the vacuum?
Great run thru.. what should normal idle vac be on the solenoid side of the vacuum tank? And can you do a video on Xdrive oil pan removal? getting ready to do a chain job and I'm good on everything except that part.. Thanks again and please keep up the great work.
Thank you so much for this informative video. Dear sir, I can see you are working on my Engine n20 f30 328i, but I have see the engine top cover is different. I have electeical wastegate actuator which is differ from yours, and I have the same vacccum pump. How to connect this? What's wrong,? My previous owner of this car changed may be exhaust system. I am trying rebuild everything. Let me if you have any help on my email address or here, to share for everyone need this help. Thank you so much I like the way you explain everything step by step.
@@c_wonder omg… what a nightmare. It was definitely the vacuum pump. Had to replace a ton on top of that since oil got in other components. Then after all of that, the turbo blew. Fixed it…two months later the timing chain guide broke. Nobody wanted to fix it. It was going to cost 6k to replace. After I spent $8k on repairs already. It’s in a junk yard now and I will never in a million years ever buy another BMW.
@@jeffmee9326 thanks. the engine was replace few years back due to timing chain issue as well by previous owner. If it’s the pump, I’ll more than likely sell the dang car while it runs. Beautiful and strong machines but not built to last.
I followed all steps replaced everything in this video and the engine malfunction is still there. However, I do have an increase in torque as it should be, what else could be causing this, engine malfunction.
Hi.Love your video!I have question.Please,can you answer!I have oil in my vacuum reservoir and the malfunction light is on.So do you think I need to replace the vacuum pump?Not any oil should be there,right? Thank you
I have an interesting question... what if oil is coming out of the vacuum actuator? (16:24) do we replace it or just move the wastegate until just air comes out?
My n20 has an electronic waste gate, I see some fresh oil leak at the back of the engine, what could be leaking oil there? Can it still be the vacuum pump eventhough my car has an electronic wastegate?
I have electronic actuator. How do you get to clean the vaccum line that goes from left side vaccum pump to the resrvoir on engine cover that T's off to the right and connects to hose on the right that then goes under brake resrvoir into dash area? That end hose still has oil in it and I dont see any opther way to get to the end of it, other than removing the parts near the brake fluid reservoir.
Hi, just a ques, what does the vacuum reservoir attached to the engine cover do? I have been driving with my engine cover off and my mechanic just use a new vacuum hose to connect the vacuum pump hose to the bottom nipple of the boost solenoid
Very helpful video. Thanks. I just drained the vacuum reservoir of oil that is under my engine cover. I have not had a check engine light yet related to the vacuum pump/ turbo. As a band aid fix, what is the worst that could happen if I just continue to drain the reservoir of oil and clean it? Will this help avoid the issue?
I have the same problem..but will just draining the resovoir help?? As the vaccum pump is also connected to the brake booster..are there chances of loosing ur brakes suddenly??
Hi, Great video. I have a BMW 11 525D Xdrive 218 HP. Is the vacuum pump sitting on the same place as your car? I have Got Limp and drive train error coming up very often. This type of symptoms are a faulty vacuum pump.
mine is the same, can this cause a intake camshaft out of tolerance issue?, thats the issue i have but when i take off my cover it leak out lot of oil out of the vacuum resevoir
@@fcpeuro would that cause camshaft to shift timing, also say i change the pump clean out lines and everything will that then fix timing or will it need to be retimed with timing tools
Where did you find a micro torque wrench for the three bolts on the vacuum pump? I am ready to put the bolts back in, but can not seem to find a torque wrench small enough to work......
I had a N20 528i, and I had same problem like this vedio. I am going to replace vacuum pump and pressure converter. Should I replace a new cover(because oil inside)?
What was the mileage of the car when the vacuum pump was replaced? Is this a typical failure around that mileage? My N20 has an electronic waste valve control and I would like to know if I need to be prepared for a new vacuum pump at a certain mileage mark.
hey Pedro, how did your fix come along ? my F34 began to give out a buzzing sound at cold start from the engine but goes away after driving which leads me to believe that the boost solenoid might be going bad. I am wondering if I would need to change the vacuum pump too. Apperciate any thoughts.
@@JR-tl8tg Actually, my engine is still performing 100% without any problems. It has now 94K+ miles and counting. I proactively replaced the timing chain at 72K miles with an FCP chain kit to be piece of mind. The original chain was in perfect condition when I pulled it out. No issues with the vacuum pump and the brakes.
Comprehensive video Nate, I have a question recently my F34 began to give out a buzzing sound at cold start from the engine but goes away after driving which leads me to believe that the boost solenoid might be going bad If I have to change it do I need to change the vacuum pump too? What do you recommend ? Thanks
@@cameronjames6096 I can't say for sure, but mine is gone after changing Crank case ventilator it's an easy fix mine is a N20 engine so it sits right on top of the engine. A video entitled 2013 BMW 528i N20 Crankcase Ventilation Valve Replacement illustrates the procedure. All the best buddy.
@@JR-tl8tg Appreciate it. I did replace that a few years ago, and just a few months ago had my entire valve cover replacement done. Car just sits now, less of a headache that way.
Excellent video and super detailed and informative. Just one quick question, the video did not show how to install the vacuum pump seal. Did i miss it? Being the seal is on the back of the engine I was curious on how you actually got the seal in place. Was it difficult to install? Please help me with this because I plan on doing this job and need this info.
Hi Rock, sorry we missed that part! Nate reached back there with his hand and just pressed it in by hand, it keys itself and bottoms out relatively easy. You can lightly lubricate it for an easier install as well. You can do it!
I am not sure if I understand your question completely but I think you are asking how the whole vacuum system works in regards to the turbocharger. In that case, the wastegate on the turbo is actuated by vacuum. This is the big canaster that the vacuum line leads to. The boost solenoid lives in between the vacuum pump and the turbo wastegate actuator. This solenoid is controlled by the ECM and when the engine requires a change in boost pressure the wastegate is opened/closed via the solenoid opening or closing allowing the negative pressure to pass and act on the wastegate actuator. Hope this helps.
Hey FCP euro, can you answer to this? I have the same engine and the electronic wastegate actuator, so the vacuum line should be capped off and not open. Its still open and leaks air and splashes oil everywhere. Can this air leak from the vacuum pump cause LEAN codes and MISFIRES? Thanks if you can answer to this? 😇
Hi MeisterSchaft13: Yes, an air leak from the vacuum pump can cause lean codes and misfires. The vacuum pump is part of the engine's vacuum system, which helps maintain the proper air-fuel ratio by controlling airflow. If there's an air leak, unmetered air enters the intake manifold, causing the engine control unit (ECU) to detect a lean condition. The lean air-fuel mixture may lead to incomplete combustion, causing engine misfires. Hope this helps a bit!
My bmw shop is charging me 1500$ just to change the boost solenoid on my 2016 x4. I got a drivetrain malfunction the next day after they changed my oil? Do u think it was tampered with? Since the boost solenoid is next to the oil cap?
This is a good point. If this was more than just a vacuum hose we would have used an alternative solvent. That said, brake cleaner is very good at breaking down oil residue and evaporates very quickly making it a good choice for this job. If you're still concerned I would suggest buying a length of new vacuum hose as there are not many solvents that will break down oil without having some side effect on rubber. www.fcpeuro.com/products/braided-fuel-vacuum-hose-55mm-od-x-30mm-id
What do you think the issue is if I got a drivetrain malfunction after replacing the vacuum pump? A bad replacement part? Car isn’t running the same as before due to that drivetrain malfunction I believe
Hi Daniel, the best thing to do first is to ensure everything is plugged back in and seated correctly. If the light was not on before the repair, it is possible that something was left undone!
Seems like there was some issues to install the vacuum pump seal ! reason why they didn't showed it 🤔 still wondering, critical step and they just missed it
For lci 2016 528i bmw can you unblock the one side of the vacuum pump? Where it was blocked Bc lci no longer uses vacuum activated turbo I’m installing a valvetronic exhaust system n it requires to tap vacuum. If I can unblock I will just directly connect it to my exhaust.
Bravi, gents! Another awesome instructional FCP video. Great camera view of the vac pump on the back side of the engine. I'd be tempted to replace the hoses - do you sell them at FCP ?? Keep up the content! I just checked my wife's X1 and she has the N20 with the vacuum wastegate actuator as in your video. At the moment, no issues but of course that can change. Cheers.
I have the" Drive train malfunction " but I dont have oil in the vacuum system I do have a P2096 (vacuum leak that causes more air to enter the system causing a lean mixture) Do you think changing both these would correct the problem ?
Great explanation of the vacuum pump. One thing that’s confusing me. I hope you can answer my question. The break booster requires vacuum so you have break assistance. However the turbo actuator requires pressure to be actuated. So how do you get pressure and vacuum from a vacuum pump? Cheers Simon
Shop the vacuum pump here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-vacuum-pump-vaico-11667640279?
Did you install new seal? I think it was edited out of the video
Please do as many N20 videos as you can, these engines are everywhere!
We have more in the works! Stay tuned
We're working on it!
Thank you so much i can finally fix my car without ripping my arm off
@@fcpeuroI must say that you have done a very good informative video. Keep it up. Anyway, my N20 is already 144,000 km and recently it suddenly lost acceleration after pushing to 2300rpm. It suddenly decelerated. I think the remedy must be related to your video?
Good video, I just did the vacuum pump replacement. A couple of comments:
1. The screws holding in the vacuum pump needed a T40, not a T30
2. On my wife’s 528 it was MUCH easier to reach the vacuum pump from the left (drivers side)
Thanks for the tip on getting the seal and how to get out the old one and it took a long time to figure out how to disconnect the vacuum lines from the engine cover. Great video overall, thanks.
Great notes, thank you!
Also note that it's easier with a 1/4 in bit and ratcheting box wrench to remove the 3 bolts on back of vacuum pump
Very helpful video. You just inspired me to try to fix this myself. Dealer wanted over 2200.00 to fix. I dont have that kind of money. Thank you for carefully explaining every step. My gratitude to all of you for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
We missed this comment Maria but very curious how your DIY went, and did you save all that money in the end!? Hope all is well with your N20!
Wow you are so complete with your instructions that I am ALMOST convinced to skip waiting for a loaner car and paying the dealer to do it and go buy the parts and do it myself!! Thank you!!! So much! I need more videos for my 528i 012’
I’m letting the dealer do it because it’s throwing a bunch of codes and i don’t have a scan tool myself
I just replaced one on my daughters 2013 X3 with an N20 4cyl. engine. It was a little difficult to get the seal out as well as the T30 screws. There is less room between the pump and firewall. The pump solved all the issues. The pump was full of oil and the check-valves were deteriorated and frozen. Thanks for this informative video.
Thank you for everything. I didn’t know what was wrong with my car I’ve been bringing it to several mechanics and they’ve charged me and couldn’t figure the problem out. This is exactly what’s wrong with my car thank you.
What sort of symptoms were you having? I may have an issue with my F30 328i
I have the same issue rn. Replaced both 02 sensors, Injectors,spark plugs, completely new turbo kit, timing chain kit, hpfp, and I don’t what it is. I’m hoping this would be the final solution. It’s a 2013 n26 with electronic Wastegate.
@@rolo7487did this fix your issue? What codes were/are you getting?
The nipple for the vacuum line for the boot has a check valve inside it, and when that rips, oil goes into your boost vacuum lines. They sell the nipple with a new rubber check valve online
“N20 vacuum pump repair kit”
~$20 vs $500 is big difference. You can save your pump!!
I agree with boomy818 that it is very possible that one or both of the black plastic nipples ( one large & one small) are defective and the smaller one is the actual reason for oil inside of vacuum reservoir. At 11:01of the video when the vacuum pump is rotated oil leaks out of the smaller nipple but I did not see oil from the larger nipple. Just give some thought. Thank you for the video.
Thank you so much brother I was about to give up on my beautiful F30 N20 😊😊😊❤
Man. I love these n20 videos. Give me more!
We love that you love these n20 videos sadatx101! More to come
Excellent video, I currently have this issue with my daughter's 2013 328i.
Great video, I had a similar problem with oil getting into the vacuum lines, but all I changed was the non return valve that supplies the waste gate actuator.
Glad you like the video, Sipho. Non return valve is a nice simple fix!
Still have a leaky vac pump though?
14:37 thank you for this boost solenoid
Thank you. It is very informative. Please keep doing N20 DIY videos. Valve cover, water pump, etc.
Thank you very much I’m going to order my parts today and start working on my car this week
When you crank the car @21:16 and there is rattling, I’ve read online that that is the wastegate actuator? Can anyone confirm? My car makes the same noise when first cranked.
It's not a T30 but a T40 for the pump. Great video and explanation!
I'm gonna replacement the vacuum pump now. Is it need to disconnect the battery or not?
Your video is the best. Thank you for your detailed video.
Hi Lee, while it is not mandatory, it certainly does not hurt to do so.
Thank you for creating this video, this is greatly helpful. One thing I need to know is the size of the E20 socket.
I used a 15mm socket to remove the bracket, the one on front is e14, you can get full set at auto parts store for $29.99
Great video! This explication was perfect! Thank you!
I know this is old, but my back piece near the FW was very different. To get access to the back, I needed to take off the windshield wiper arms, to get off that cover that then would allow me take off the piece that was crowding access to the pump. I thought it was going to be a PIA when I first looked at it, but ended up not being as bad as I thought.
Your the Best Thanks from California
Great video.
Mine is a 2013 328i, and the 3 bolts are T40 torx,
Not T30.
Thanks
Very good video. Do you have please the diagram for the vacuum hoses and other hoses by chance ?. A mechanic worked in my engine and I believe He didn't reconnect the vacuum hoses properly and now I have a Drive Train Malfunction light on
Me too!
Great video! Question- I have an n20 with EWG, the 2 vacuum nipples on the engine cover have nothing connected to them, what should go on there to be exact? I suspect some previous mechanic didn't assemble my car properly ?
Hi, Nice job and vidéo
You Just saved my car with your work and tips
I've à question, when we change thé boost solenoid, is there any procedure coding or learning of the new spare ? To set the New settings to the car system ?
Thx 😁
I didn’t even know they had a seal on these thanks
Yow bredda yuh save mi a whole heap a $$$, respect zeen breddrin 🙏
Thank you so much for this excellent video on replacing the vacuum pump. This is something I need to do on my 2013 X3. I do have a question associated with the vacuum reservoir. I just replaced the valve cover gaskets and had to remove the vacuum pump to do so. I didn't have a new vacuum pump at the time to replace. But I may have a loose gasoline connection, but I can't see where it's leaking with the coil pack/engine cover on because of the lines connected to the vacuum reservoir. Question is can I run the engine without driving it with the vacuum reservoir removed just so I can see where the leak is coming from? Thank you!
Hi Mark, you most certainly do not want to try and start the vehicle without the pump attached, the massive vacuum leak that will cause is enough to keep it from starting.
Thanks for the video.
I have a F10 with N20 engine and recently there is a problem with the vacuum pump.
There is an oil leakage but I am now sure if it is from the seal between the pump and cylinder cover or from the pump valve.
You said that seal replacement is also needed but is it possible to replace the seal without detaching the cylinder cover?
Our BMW local said that replacing the seal itself cannot be done independently but the cylinder cover must be detached.
Could you please show me a tip for this?
Thanks in advance.
I apologize if this question has already been addressed. I have a 2015 328i N20/F30 I get that drivetrain malfunction but I never get a code. It is my understanding that limp mode drivetrain malfunction or not working at full speed could be anything from intake to gas? I know forsure I am having an issue with the fuel level sensor so I am replacing the lpfp because it's one piece with the sensor and fuel filter. I'm worried it's more than just the fuel level sensor. Is there another way to find out if it is my vacuum pump and boost solenoid? My car is not like this one that you are working on so I would not see oil under the engine cover. Any educating information is greatly appreciated. Thank you your diy videos are well put together and easy to see what you're actually doing..
Can you do a charcoal canister replacement soon in 1 of your videos
we can certainly add it to the list!
So mine went today. After watching this the day it came out. I completely forgot to look at my pump when this happen today and went to bmw. I wasn't getting an engine issue light but was getting smoke out of engine on the N26. from dripping oil on the downpipe. Went to BMW and they covered it under warranty because I have the SULEV N26 possibly. Anyhow it was nice to see my 120k engine get something under warranty... I really wanted to do it myself lol I had the parts in the shopping cart and everything.
What if my engine cover doesn't have the reservoir? Where is the line supposed to go from the vacuum pump?
I didn’t take anything out from the back top. You can do it without taking all those stuff out. But thank you so much
How did you get the seal in for replacement? Was it easy to pop back in?
I put oil around the seal and i pressed it in with my hand. Hope this helps
Hi this video was extremely helpful. I do have a question, If we have an engine where the westgate is controlled electronically, would we only have to change the vacuum pump AND also the Westgate? Or just the vacuum?
I wonder the same thing
Just the Vacuum since the wastegate is controlled Electronically. But supposedly the wastegate actuator could go bad overtime in rare cases.
Love your videos guys, very clear and informative- fabulous work 👍
Great run thru.. what should normal idle vac be on the solenoid side of the vacuum tank? And can you do a video on Xdrive oil pan removal? getting ready to do a chain job and I'm good on everything except that part.. Thanks again and please keep up the great work.
Thank you so much for this informative video. Dear sir, I can see you are working on my Engine n20 f30 328i, but I have see the engine top cover is different. I have electeical wastegate actuator which is differ from yours, and I have the same vacccum pump. How to connect this? What's wrong,? My previous owner of this car changed may be exhaust system. I am trying rebuild everything. Let me if you have any help on my email address or here, to share for everyone need this help. Thank you so much I like the way you explain everything step by step.
fantastic video! im pretty sure this is what is wrong with my 528i. Im going to take it to a mechanic to resolve. how many hours should this job take?
did you end up getting the job done? how much did you end up spending in your area? Thanks
@@c_wonder omg… what a nightmare. It was definitely the vacuum pump. Had to replace a ton on top of that since oil got in other components. Then after all of that, the turbo blew. Fixed it…two months later the timing chain guide broke. Nobody wanted to fix it. It was going to cost 6k to replace. After I spent $8k on repairs already. It’s in a junk yard now and I will never in a million years ever buy another BMW.
@@jeffmee9326 thanks. the engine was replace few years back due to timing chain issue as well by previous owner. If it’s the pump, I’ll more than likely sell the dang car while it runs. Beautiful and strong machines but not built to last.
I followed all steps replaced everything in this video and the engine malfunction is still there. However, I do have an increase in torque as it should be, what else could be causing this, engine malfunction.
Has this good for BMW and 26 engines as well like 428i coupe 2014
Hi.Love your video!I have question.Please,can you answer!I have oil in my vacuum reservoir and the malfunction light is on.So do you think I need to replace the vacuum pump?Not any oil should be there,right? Thank you
I have an interesting question... what if oil is coming out of the vacuum actuator? (16:24) do we replace it or just move the wastegate until just air comes out?
Hi, try to do the same video on the BMW 116i F20 the N13 Engine PLEASE 🙏
My n20 has an electronic waste gate, I see some fresh oil leak at the back of the engine, what could be leaking oil there? Can it still be the vacuum pump eventhough my car has an electronic wastegate?
Is this the same replacement for PWG Vs EWG?
I figured it out myself it indeed it not the same
I have electronic actuator. How do you get to clean the vaccum line that goes from left side vaccum pump to the resrvoir on engine cover that T's off to the right and connects to hose on the right that then goes under brake resrvoir into dash area? That end hose still has oil in it and I dont see any opther way to get to the end of it, other than removing the parts near the brake fluid reservoir.
What would be the symptoms if that fails?
I enjoy looking at your videos good job
Hi, just a ques, what does the vacuum reservoir attached to the engine cover do? I have been driving with my engine cover off and my mechanic just use a new vacuum hose to connect the vacuum pump hose to the bottom nipple of the boost solenoid
Oil pouring out of engine cover / vacuum reservoir - yep. Would severely reduced fuel economy be another symptom of this?
So this fix pertains only for the vacuum pump?
Not the electronic one?
Very helpful video. Thanks. I just drained the vacuum reservoir of oil that is under my engine cover. I have not had a check engine light yet related to the vacuum pump/ turbo. As a band aid fix, what is the worst that could happen if I just continue to drain the reservoir of oil and clean it? Will this help avoid the issue?
That can certainly help, Paul!
I have the same problem..but will just draining the resovoir help?? As the vaccum pump is also connected to the brake booster..are there chances of loosing ur brakes suddenly??
When are you all going to do a video for a vacuum pump replacement on a N55 engine?
Thank you I have this problem now I know how to fix it.
Perfect timing Leroy R Crum jr!
You're very welcome! That what we love to hear!
Caught this early on my Z4 not too terrible to do yourself... just another n20 quirk to add to the list
can this cause a rough engine idle??
Hi, Great video. I have a BMW 11 525D Xdrive 218 HP. Is the vacuum pump sitting on the same place as your car? I have Got Limp and drive train error coming up very often. This type of symptoms are a faulty vacuum pump.
Nice video except the size of the Allen key is t40. Not t30. Using t30 will damage the inside of the nut.
mine is the same, can this cause a intake camshaft out of tolerance issue?, thats the issue i have but when i take off my cover it leak out lot of oil out of the vacuum resevoir
It is possible that the pump has severely failed!
@@fcpeuro would that cause camshaft to shift timing, also say i change the pump clean out lines and everything will that then fix timing or will it need to be retimed with timing tools
Hi, Is it possible to test and measure with a vacuum pump if the vacuum works like on Booster pressure solenoid?
Where did you find a micro torque wrench for the three bolts on the vacuum pump? I am ready to put the bolts back in, but can not seem to find a torque wrench small enough to work......
This actually helped me out a lot!! 👍🏻
I had a N20 528i, and I had same problem like this vedio. I am going to replace vacuum pump and pressure converter. Should I replace a new cover(because oil inside)?
Sorry my English is not good
How long does the timing chain on this engine last? Some say about 100K miles?
What was the mileage of the car when the vacuum pump was replaced? Is this a typical failure around that mileage? My N20 has an electronic waste valve control and I would like to know if I need to be prepared for a new vacuum pump at a certain mileage mark.
hey Pedro, how did your fix come along ? my F34 began to give out a buzzing sound at cold start from the engine but goes away after driving which leads me to believe that the boost solenoid might be going bad. I am wondering if I would need to change the vacuum pump too. Apperciate any thoughts.
@@JR-tl8tg Actually, my engine is still performing 100% without any problems. It has now 94K+ miles and counting. I proactively replaced the timing chain at 72K miles with an FCP chain kit to be piece of mind. The original chain was in perfect condition when I pulled it out. No issues with the vacuum pump and the brakes.
Will a check engine light/code come up if the solenoid is bad? And can this be read with a standard code reader?
hi can you make a video how to remove the vanos solenoid on 2013 bmw x3 vanos center valve
is the vacuum pump must be replace on every 100km like timming chain
or
until it run down only replace ?
very helpful thanks you
You dont have to take off the entire cowl off, also anytime i have to take a vacuum pump off I usually plank on the engine to reach the end lol
Comprehensive video Nate, I have a question recently my F34 began to give out a buzzing sound at cold start from the engine but goes away after driving which leads me to believe that the boost solenoid might be going bad If I have to change it do I need to change the vacuum pump too? What do you recommend ? Thanks
Did you ever figure this out? Also have the buzzing, but I think both my pump and boost solenoid are going out. 😢
@@cameronjames6096 I can't say for sure, but mine is gone after changing Crank case ventilator it's an easy fix mine is a N20 engine so it sits right on top of the engine. A video entitled 2013 BMW 528i N20 Crankcase Ventilation Valve Replacement illustrates the procedure. All the best buddy.
@@JR-tl8tg Appreciate it. I did replace that a few years ago, and just a few months ago had my entire valve cover replacement done. Car just sits now, less of a headache that way.
@@cameronjames6096 Did the valve cover job fix the issue?
Excellent video and super detailed and informative. Just one quick question, the video did not show how to install the vacuum pump seal. Did i miss it? Being the seal is on the back of the engine I was curious on how you actually got the seal in place. Was it difficult to install? Please help me with this because I plan on doing this job and need this info.
Hi Rock, sorry we missed that part! Nate reached back there with his hand and just pressed it in by hand, it keys itself and bottoms out relatively easy. You can lightly lubricate it for an easier install as well. You can do it!
@@fcpeuro Thanks, just got all my parts from FCP Euro and will tackel this job at home.
Ok, so does the pump use oil to create the vaccum? Just confused as to where the oil should be vs. where it should be...
Hi from dubai, thanks for great video. Can you explain how a vacuum pump works with solenoid n turbocharger.
I am not sure if I understand your question completely but I think you are asking how the whole vacuum system works in regards to the turbocharger. In that case, the wastegate on the turbo is actuated by vacuum. This is the big canaster that the vacuum line leads to. The boost solenoid lives in between the vacuum pump and the turbo wastegate actuator. This solenoid is controlled by the ECM and when the engine requires a change in boost pressure the wastegate is opened/closed via the solenoid opening or closing allowing the negative pressure to pass and act on the wastegate actuator. Hope this helps.
Hey FCP euro, can you answer to this? I have the same engine and the electronic wastegate actuator, so the vacuum line should be capped off and not open. Its still open and leaks air and splashes oil everywhere. Can this air leak from the vacuum pump cause LEAN codes and MISFIRES? Thanks if you can answer to this? 😇
Hi MeisterSchaft13: Yes, an air leak from the vacuum pump can cause lean codes and misfires. The vacuum pump is part of the engine's vacuum system, which helps maintain the proper air-fuel ratio by controlling airflow. If there's an air leak, unmetered air enters the intake manifold, causing the engine control unit (ECU) to detect a lean condition. The lean air-fuel mixture may lead to incomplete combustion, causing engine misfires. Hope this helps a bit!
How did the seal go in?? No room to tap it in so did it go pretty far in by hand and then the rest of the way when bolts were tightened?
Hi Frank, exactly that! You can get it in most of the way by hand, then once you get the pump started, it will squeeze it in the rest of the way.
Can you tell which s better between the posh Panamera GTS 8 cylinder 2021 and the 4 S V6 cylinder engine
Could this cause general misfire in different cylinders and stall the car almost immediately? Mine is pouring huge amounts of oil from the cover.
It certainly will not help!
If it is a vacuum pump, even if leaking, why would it push oil in to the lines when it should be sucking air out of the lines?
My bmw shop is charging me 1500$ just to change the boost solenoid on my 2016 x4. I got a drivetrain malfunction the next day after they changed my oil? Do u think it was tampered with? Since the boost solenoid is next to the oil cap?
Thanks for the video very helpful
Glad it helped
Curious why you guys chose to use brake cleaner which ruins rubber and plastic as opposed to something like seafoam that doesn’t?
This is a good point. If this was more than just a vacuum hose we would have used an alternative solvent. That said, brake cleaner is very good at breaking down oil residue and evaporates very quickly making it a good choice for this job. If you're still concerned I would suggest buying a length of new vacuum hose as there are not many solvents that will break down oil without having some side effect on rubber.
www.fcpeuro.com/products/braided-fuel-vacuum-hose-55mm-od-x-30mm-id
What do you think the issue is if I got a drivetrain malfunction after replacing the vacuum pump? A bad replacement part? Car isn’t running the same as before due to that drivetrain malfunction I believe
Hi Daniel, the best thing to do first is to ensure everything is plugged back in and seated correctly. If the light was not on before the repair, it is possible that something was left undone!
@@fcpeuroyou were right, Car back to normal. Thank you
Seems like there was some issues to install the vacuum pump seal ! reason why they didn't showed it 🤔 still wondering, critical step and they just missed it
So if we don't replace these parts it only affects performance or will it damage other parts as well?
For lci 2016 528i bmw can you unblock the one side of the vacuum pump? Where it was blocked Bc lci no longer uses vacuum activated turbo I’m installing a valvetronic exhaust system n it requires to tap vacuum. If I can unblock I will just directly connect it to my exhaust.
Can you please do one specific for 5 series?
How did you clean the hose?
Bravi, gents! Another awesome instructional FCP video.
Great camera view of the vac pump on the back side of the engine.
I'd be tempted to replace the hoses - do you sell them at FCP ??
Keep up the content! I just checked my wife's X1 and she has the N20 with the vacuum wastegate actuator as in your video. At the moment, no issues but of course that can change. Cheers.
Thanks, Mario! We should have those hoses on the site, if not we can definitely add them!
Does the new seal just push in? Or do you have to tap it in somehow?
Hi Destry, the new seal pushes in by hand. You will be able to run your finger around the edge and feel it seat against the valve cover.
Amazing. Thank you
how did the oil get into the pump? is there a bigger problem?
I have the" Drive train malfunction " but I dont have oil in the vacuum system I do have a P2096 (vacuum leak that causes more air to enter the system causing a lean mixture) Do you think changing both these would correct the problem ?
I have the series 3 328i 2013, but it doesn't have that pump or the little hoses, is it normal?
Great explanation of the vacuum pump.
One thing that’s confusing me.
I hope you can answer my question.
The break booster requires vacuum so you have break assistance.
However the turbo actuator requires pressure to be actuated.
So how do you get pressure and vacuum from a vacuum pump?
Cheers
Simon
I’ve just worked out that the actuator works on vacuum
Cheers
How do you install the seal ?????
Do you have a segment on throttle body replacement for 2015 Bmw x4?
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