I have 5 matching tires and wheels, and include all 5 every time I rotate the tires. There's no reason to have a pristine spare when the other 4 are worn out.
Two more reasons to rotate all 5 tires: get 25% more life out of the tires, also if you need the spare tire, it will have the same wear on the tread, and it won't be a 5mm thinker tread then the rest of the tires making the vehicle ride funny.
This set up is perfect. And you have the authority to say so. You are a knowledgeable and reliable source of information. Thank you for sharing with us.
Once again great commentary about practical and purposeful tyre and wheel choice. You addressed the reality of reasonable rim and tyre choice respectfully. So many others in Australia who are building vehicles seem to have this obsess with bigger is better in all modifications. Interestingly two prominent West Australian 4wd channels are now talking about weight (yet one still is very excessive about looks which mostly equals heavier). Taking less gives greater opportunity to enjoy more.
💯% Solid advice Dan. I followed your previous video on tire size for Overlanding. It was Solid advice also. I went the narrow tire route(245/75R-16 Mt) apposed to the stock size on my rig (255/70R-16). As you can see, not a drastic change and everything functions as normal. Cheers 🍻, G.
I had a set of Yokohama geolandars on Landcuiser 120. Best tyres I ever had. After 40 k km and beaten off roading they still look like they could take 2 time more.. :). No punctures or balancing issues as well.
Good advice thanks…we are planning to drive from Indiana to Alaska next summer in a 2014 VW Touareg TDi….I have 5 tires and rims. Hope we can get into Canada one day!
American here. I have a 06 wrangler and I could easily fit 35s, but for my new tires I went for a set of 7.5r16 km3. On the vehicle they measure 31 inches high and 6.5 inches of tread on the ground. Compared to say a 33, I saved $80 a tire, and so far I'm getting the same mpg as I did on stock 28 inch tires. Everyone seems to give me hell, til I explain the benefits of a smaller tire. Better mpg, less stress on the vehicle, lighter, and yet I'm only losing 2 inches of ground clearance compared to their 35s and I'll be able to drive mine more for less money and maintenance downtime. Plus it'll make me think more offroad and ideally make me a better driver.
7.50s are a good size for general off-roading. They were fitted standard to Australian market Land Cruiser from the 1960s up to 2017 and most brands of 4WD came with them back in the day. Many prospectors, station workers and remote travelers still use them. One of the advantages of them being so narrow is that they pick up less punctures. And they are reasonably capable off road with the diameter being closer to a "33" than a "31" (most 31" tyres are barely 30" tall).
Actually the difference in ground clearance between 33 and 35 is only 1 inch, not 2. It’s the 1 inch on the bottom half of the tire. The 1 inch on the top half of the tire only fills the wheel well, but doesn’t give you clearance. It validates your choice of 33 over 35 even more so. If you wanted 2 inches of ground clearance over 33s, you would have to go up to 37s.
@@juanpinto5743 @Juan Pinto yeah didn't explain that well. I was going between my 7.5r16 (31 inches actual VS 31.8 advertised) VS a 35. Then the fun part is that the 35 probably measures 34 inches.
Good video Dan. I was very favorable towards 35" tires for comfort, but the footprint isn't so much bigger than 33", so I plan to go same path as you with steel wheels and 33" tires. Regarding the valve, I have seen guys weld part of metal pipe to the wheel to protect the valve from impacts. I plan of course good puncture repair kits, also I plan to have tubes and tools that will able me to repair and use heavily damaged tire to get into next town. Spare valve is also smart. And practice to take tire of the wheel and remove the valve and re install it at home with the basic tools you can get. I have done it in the middle of river in winter, that is put tire back on to the wheel with basic tools, it can be done, but smart to practice at home before you go.
My ram 1500 classic tradesman came with Yokohama geolander all terrain tires from the factory I custom ordered my truck tradesman quad cab 4x4 with lots of extras there awesome tires 👍😊
Hi Dan,. Carry some Colby valve stems with you. I carry them, but haven't had to use them yet personally, but have seem them in action saving somebody else's behind. They install from the outside. So long as you are running on board air, you are golden.
Agreed! I've been running steel wheels but highly considering dropping down to Aluminum for the rust and corrosion resistance, and the reduced weight. Today's aluminum wheels are actually engineered to be more durable to stand up to off-roading/overlanding usage.
@@jakealcazar3805 get a set of powder coated steel wheels. Not sure if this is the issue, but especially salt will attack Aluminium rims pretty quick...
I don't see the point of spending money on new wheels that are the same size as the stock wheels. The wheel wells are able to accommodate 35 inch tires without lifting or modifying the suspension, so there would have no penalty for upgrading.
I like it that you've not gone for huge oversized tyres. Australians love big fat tyres on their 4WDs, but not as much as Americans! I'm more of a skinny tyre devotee. Just put on a set of BFG KM3 255/85 R16 mud terrains on my LandCruiser Troopy. Took them out for a sandy/muddy test last week and was very impressed. A little bit noisier than the OEM tyres on bitumen, but not too bad at all. And they air down nicely with a long footprint.
The width all depends on how heavy your truck is, too wide can be just as bad as too skinny.. a light truck can make any tire shine, I had the 255/85-16” bfg mud terrain on my old Toyota pickup, it was an incredible tire and performed very well, years ago I recall showing up to a mud pit with a huge audience of red necks getting stuck in their built full side trucks.. when it was my turn to blast through the mud pit in my 1987 Toyota everyone was laughing and saying nasty things.. when I blasted through effortlessly the laughter stopped, lol
Another reason why you don’t want a negative offset is because it wears out your wheel bearings and limits your turning radius, and as you mentioned that police will tax you if they stick out.. that’s getting expensive $$ I’d have gone with a forged aluminum rim$$ better stopping, faster acceleration, smoother ride, better fuel economy.. it’s a lot stronger than a cast aluminum rim, but the only negative is the cost, but will pay for itself eventually with better fuel efficiency.
Hi Dan,l was using Yokohama A/T Geolander tire for a long time 3 sets mainly on off-road on Australian autback very good tires but replaced average 40-45000km and very sensative side wall easy to destroyed also hard to get in small country town or far from home just impassible. I hope your new next generation Yokohama tyres will serve you much better. I’m using last few years also on Australian autback BF Ko2 and it’s really much much better. Have a nice day.
Good advice Dan. Go to outback Australia and you don't see big wheels and tyres on locals 4WDs. They echo exactly what you are saying. The Landcruiser 70 Series is ubiquitous in Outback Australia just like in Africa and Asia. 90% of them run the standard steel split rims and good name brand tyres. They know what works.
In Australia you have to only apply to the vehicle mod laws in which state the car is registered in, so you would not get defected in the other states that the mod is not allowed
Thanks Dan; Leaving to Tuktoyuktuk in mid September and was considering running 35's on my Jeep JL. Very good sound advice.......staying with the stock 33's. Thanks for the advice. t
I am looking to head up to Tuktoyuktuk this year, did you make it up this past year? How was it in September? Tom, any tips or pointers that Dan hasn't covered in his other videos?
@@escapingthenest2020 Just a couple, the Dempster as you know is all gravel/dirt/mud. What you might not know is they us a local shale type rock crushed for gravel..... it's very sharp. You must keep your speed down or suffer flats. There are very few camping locations along the road, few places to pull off and the limited camp grounds are mostly full during August/September so find camp early. Even in those two months storms roll in super fast with heavy winds so your RTT may take a beating if you don't find cover in a good treed camp ground. There are sights just coming into Tuk that you need to see that no one shows...... The sewer lagoon and the garbage dump..... it's very interesting how they have to deal with this kind of thing that no one thinks about. Things move slowly in Tuk so expect late openings and long lunch hours. It was a great trip you'll love it... and of course expect to replace your wind shield after this trip. t
Thanks for the video great explanation the only thing I don’t like is locks for my wheels had somebody break one before thank God it wasn’t in the middle of nowhere a nightmare getting it locked back off my WheelBe blessed
👍 I've had the "key" socket stripped by a tire shop using a dang impact gun on it. Then the clowns tried to say the tires wouldn't fit. I had ordered a set of "retro" steel wagon wheel rims in white to match the Jeep to go with the 31/10.5×15 MT's. Luckily I had the stock steel rims on it. I had to smash off center caps the grind flats on them to get them off.
The valve stems will be fine but if you are concerned get the tyre dealer to give you a couple of spares and buy the tool for inserting them on Ebay, You will also need the tools to remove the tyre of course to replace the valve stem.
I've been running black steel wheels (cop wheels) for a long time and Dan is correct in his thoughts on them. We no longer deliberately do hard core offroading but we do find ourselves climbing a section of rock ledges on a poorly maintained mine access road or picking our way along a boulder garden when a stream has jumped its banks in winter storms and I've been using HT tires for some time and find them just fine. HT=Highway/Terrain. Not quite AT level but miles better than LT or passenger tires and inexpensive, like really inexpensive.
If you get Mopar Rubicon high top fender flares, those are not only higher, but also wider about an inch. So you can legally go wider without wheels popping out of the fenders.
Luv your videos Mate! Born here but my parents are from Uruguay South America hopefully u liked it! Please update us on how reliable the gladiator around Australia goes! 👍👍
Yokohama don't seem to be that popular amongst overlanders/offroaders here in Oz, & I have to admit, I hadn't really considered them as I was really happy with another brand for many years. When I bought my Defender I needed tyres almost immediately & in the size I wanted, 255/85 R16, the cost was considerable. Yoko MT G003 were $100 per tyre cheaper than other brands with really good specs & reviews. So far they have been amazing on all the varied terrain I drive. I also live in SW Vic & play in the Otways mud from time to time, hence the muddies rather that AT tyres.
I’ve read that the JK stock steel wheel center caps fit on the JT spare steel wheels if that interests you. I will be doing the same set up as you but with BFG KO2s.
Do you happen to have a part number on those center caps? I might get them for my JT steel wheels. I did like Dan and ordered 5 when I bought my Gladiator
Would you happen to know or have a link for the most commonly available tire sizes in this range, globally? It seems availability is a key detail to look for. Great wisdom in your video here!
my recommendation would be: Go with a tire size that is stock size on a widespread vehicle. (does not mean you can not go with something bigger, at least when the size is stock on something else) Maybe it would be better to ask what a widespread tire size is for a single continent (you want to travel to)
My approach is, Big - get the biggest OME tires - which should be legale at the same time. Width - look at Paris - Dakar or any other Events where money is no issue! Relatively skinny tires! AT - best choice for overlanding. What I take along are four (snow)chains which work wonders, also in the short and seldom situations where mud is an issue! Last point you didn't mention but which could be an issue is availability! The tire size you fit should be a generally available tire and not a - no matter how good - odd ball. All 4 of your wheels should be the same at all time!
I would LOVE to have you review this video and then do a new video on tires where you answer all your speculation in this video! Also, do you do 4 or 5 tires rotations?
five tire rotation so I can get as much life out of them as possible. The tires and choice were excellent for the trip, not a single issue and they took me everywhere I wanted to go.
I'm also considering switching to steel. I keep scratching my nice Aloys. With steel I could just rattle can them black again . I could go with stock Bronco steel wheels but I would need spacers..... So my debate is buy offset steel wheels or hubcentric spacers....
Dan doesn't say, but did he get free Yokohama tires? Andrew SP White was very proud that he got free tires and wheels for his Troopy build. Off- roaders in Australia all seem to think they are the best off-roaders, but maybe they are. In the good old USA the ones that spend the most think they are.
Steel is always a smart choice. Also, running the size tires the manufacturer recommends is wise, especially when going overland. Not to say you can't run bigger ones, but you have to watch the width measurement if you want to keep them inside the fenders. I would consider a bit of a lift on that Gladiator though. They have notoriously poor breakover angles, even the Rubicons. You are likely to get really badly stuck on Dunes without a bit of extra lift. (and a stack of Maxxtracks) I've seen more than a few really built up Ute's get stuck from high centering on soft or steep terrain. You are reduced about 25% on your breakover, approach and departure angles in a Gladiator over a standard 4 door Wrangler, and 50% or more over a 2 door Wrangler on the breakover. So be very aware when out and about.
@@GATORADDAM Dan has 285/70r17, same width as a 285/80r17. Only difference is his is a 33 inch tyre and the tyre diameter I would like is a 35 inch tyre.
Hey Dan, I like the wheels. Your stock lug nuts didn’t didn’t work with the steelies? I’m probably going to order 5 for my lifted Wrangler and get some Geolandar M/Ts 255/80/17 pizza cutters.
Hey i suscribed to your channel and love the info you give. If you were to run a jeep wrangler rubicon 392 non-xr (33 inch tires) for overlanding what size tires would you run?
Depends entirely on where you are going, and what terrain you expect. But I've driven Alaska to Argentina, right around Africa and right around Australia, and 33s were always perfect.
I think size of tyre is more imperative if you are going a lot off road. Tyre size will determine how much clearance you have under the diff and how much wall flex you will have. A 37 inch tyre is not as good on a 22 inch rim as it would be on a 17 inch rim as the side wall flex is a lot less. And a 31 inch tyre won't give you anywhere near the diff clearance even if you put a 6 inch lift on your car. People forget we need to get to the offroad track somehow.
Good choice on tire size. I think I speak for everyone here in America.... Thank God we don't have the same restrictions and nanny state policies like you have there. There would be an absolute revolt! 😂😀😜
I m totally agree with you about your arguments about tires. But, about the rims I think a bit different. Alloy rims are a lot different in terms of strength and roundness than were 25 years ago. Probably, if I were you, I would keep the factory rims, because the weigth and the roundness . Do you have a well aquired knowledge or expertise that leads to avoid a damage rim, but s... happens and yes, no doubt about, steel is easier to repair. On the other hand, is rare that the steel wheels that you purchased weigths the same than alloys, it leads me to think, or the steel wheels are for lightweight use or the OEM alloys are very strong. Nevertheless keep your plan ahead, I m enjoying a lot.
Get mud flaps or you will still kick up rocks and mud on the doors and out back. I bought removable ones that work great. Protect my doors and the trailer I tow.
We shall see. Lol. I looked at a Gladiator 2 years ago when deciding on my 4x4. The long wheelbase and bad breakover angle just didn't fit my ideas of an off-roader. To me it would need a 3 inch lift and at least 35s to make it capable enough for what I wanted it for. So I went with a new Tacoma TRDoffroad. I did lift it 3 inches and put on 33 inch BFG KO2s. I definitely cleared rock ledges in Colorado that Gladiators on 33s dragged belly and tail on. And my 3 point turns on switchbacks were 5 point turns to them. I did run into a Gladiator (on a jobsite) with a lift on 37s that was bad ass! And the tires were inside the fenders. Taller doesn't have to be crazy wider. Now that one I wouldn't wanna go up against!
Ooh, your video triggered an idea for another video... what’s the “globally legal” vehicle build? You note tires sticking outside the fenders, but what about window tints, lifts, view out rear view, items mounted to windshields, etc... Seems like something you might just have the answer to!
They are also lighter- problem is when you use steel wheels you get to brag that your going to use a hammer to smash the wheel back together when you destroy a steel wheel! Lol How often do you actually smash a wheel? How many people have ever smashed a wheel back into shape? Nah, I’d take the lighter weight and all the performance benefit it gives me.
@@Upliftyourbrothers I tend to agree, even Andrew on 4Xoverland has said a simular statement. Only if you get into wreck, are doing some serious off roading, or are not paying attention could be cause for a bent wheel(even then it's extremly rare). For a compitent touring style overlander this may never happen(and Dan has a 285(295 for a BFG) on a 7.5 width wheel), though it gives them piece of mind.
I've got them in Dad's shed for now.. I will have to decided if I'm going to sell the stock rims and tires now and then later sell the Jeep with what I have on it, or swap them back around. I'll decide later.
K02 are getting a bit old nowadays, nothing particularly wrong with them, but there's better tyre technology out there now that seems to work really well. Yokohama are pretty cheap here in Oz in comparison & readily available everywhere. For example, in the current hot tyre size of 255/85 R16, the Yoko MT G003 is over $100 per tyre cheaper than the Bridgey KM3. Whether Dan pays or not, they're a seriously compelling choice out here.
@@gen1c8rs88 So far they've been amazing, & I drive on every surface in my part of the world (Victoria Aus) from rock to clay pan mud. You have to immediately drop to around 12psi on soft sand as the sidewalls are so strong, but that's no drama in reality. Surprisingly nice on the road too, even in the wet. I seriously rate them as an awesome tyre so far (24,000km) 👍
Curious did you get the Yokohama tires in a load e range? Or standard load range? I know load e have more durable side walls which can take more abuse but they are also much heavier tire
When I understand correctly you have the same rim size as the Orginals rims? So you only changed the rims because you prefer Steel over the Orginal (Aluminium) wheels?
@The Road Chose Me cheers for the comment. Out of interest what was the reason you lifted yours if not for the tire size? I just bought a rubicon but don't want to lift it it's not necessary. I think I'll go with 285/70r17 but there's a 285/75r17 which is about 33.8", did you look into this at all?
I was just saying that most of the aftermarket wheels people put on their 4wds look so gimmicky or tacky (IMO of course). For an honest 4wd form follows function and a good set of quality steel wheels is just the thing. I'm not looking for "bling" I want bomb-proof out in the wilds.
Not off hand, but there's a ton of threads about them on all the Gladiator forums www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/factory-spare-steel-wheels.42087/
I did go through one random breath test, yes (they stop every vehicle and make you blow into the bag to test for alcohol). I was also *very* close to getting weighed and tested on fraser island (missed it by hours)
@@TheRoadChoseMe had you weighed your truck anywhere previous? I have a 2022/23Gladiator sitting in the lot waiting for my JKU to be ready for trade in. First thing I’m doing is heading to the weigh bridge with a full take of fuel and my family and getting a (hopefully accurate) starting weight before we set it up and hit the cape in June this year!
Yep, I weighed it when it was bone-stock and then again before I hit the road after the build when it was fully outfitted. It was basically right at the GVM when fully loaded.
The problem is the Gladiator Rubicon has a drastically longer wheelbase and 33 inch tires, just like the Wrangler Rubicon , plus it’s MUCH heavier when fully loaded. 35x11.50r17 should have been the factory fitment ...so that’s the minimum size for serious off-road travel. Plus it fits in the factory spare location. The Mopar 2 inch lift would be a good choice too. I wouldn’t pick a 37x12.50 R17 inch either;) Plus it’s outside the recommended width of any of the standard factory rims. As an added bonus the aspect ratio of a 35 is noticeably better at protecting the rims and has better floatation. And isn’t so much bigger you’d notice much need to regear. But 4.56 gears fully loaded in deep sand would feel much better;)
@@ryancrouch3238 Toyo Open country a/t III. Or many more choices in 285/75r17. 1.1 inches taller than stock, fits on factory rims and probably wouldn’t rub at all, even off-road.
Steel wheels bend easier than quality aluminum wheels as a start, I’d worry that being designed as a spare it’ll be lighter and weaker than most of the aftermarket steel wheels, I would have saved my money and ran the stock wheels as the rubicon ones are very strong. They’ll take some scrapes and stuff but don’t bend or break easily.
Most places in Canada and USA it’s illegal to have tires that stick out. I know people that have gotten tickets for it. I assume a lot of places that it’s on par with tint in terms of enforcement though and cops don’t bother?
I'm sorry you don't have freedom in Australia. That's so sad that your overly bureaucratic authoritative government suppresses innovation in something as simple as tires. What else do they not allow you to do when it comes to choices?
I have 5 matching tires and wheels, and include all 5 every time I rotate the tires. There's no reason to have a pristine spare when the other 4 are worn out.
I agree 100%, and I do a 5 tire rotation every 10,000kms (6k miles)
Two more reasons to rotate all 5 tires: get 25% more life out of the tires, also if you need the spare tire, it will have the same wear on the tread, and it won't be a 5mm thinker tread then the rest of the tires making the vehicle ride funny.
This set up is perfect. And you have the authority to say so. You are a knowledgeable and reliable source of information. Thank you for sharing with us.
Glad it was helpful!
Those tires look sick. I'm enjoying the build, great work Dan!
Once again great commentary about practical and purposeful tyre and wheel choice. You addressed the reality of reasonable rim and tyre choice respectfully. So many others in Australia who are building vehicles seem to have this obsess with bigger is better in all modifications. Interestingly two prominent West Australian 4wd channels are now talking about weight (yet one still is very excessive about looks which mostly equals heavier). Taking less gives greater opportunity to enjoy more.
Personal experience as well, the Yokohama's are great tyres for remote travel in Australia. Good choice.
I like your practical approach
💯% Solid advice Dan.
I followed your previous video on tire size for Overlanding. It was Solid advice also.
I went the narrow tire route(245/75R-16 Mt)
apposed to the stock size on my rig (255/70R-16). As you can see, not a drastic change and everything functions as normal.
Cheers 🍻, G.
Totally agreed with you on it.. if you dont worry about aesthetics and making your jeep looks lke a beast.
Thanks for the content, looking forward to the beginning of your adventure
You and me both!
Thanks for the shoutout!
I had a set of Yokohama geolandars on Landcuiser 120. Best tyres I ever had. After 40 k km and beaten off roading they still look like they could take 2 time more.. :). No punctures or balancing issues as well.
Always great advice Dan!
Love the steelies!
Good call on the wheels.
So sensible it works! Chapman philosophy simplify adding lightness
Absolutely!
Good advice thanks…we are planning to drive from Indiana to Alaska next summer in a 2014 VW Touareg TDi….I have 5 tires and rims. Hope we can get into Canada one day!
I like the steel wheels as well! 👍🏻
American here. I have a 06 wrangler and I could easily fit 35s, but for my new tires I went for a set of 7.5r16 km3. On the vehicle they measure 31 inches high and 6.5 inches of tread on the ground.
Compared to say a 33, I saved $80 a tire, and so far I'm getting the same mpg as I did on stock 28 inch tires.
Everyone seems to give me hell, til I explain the benefits of a smaller tire. Better mpg, less stress on the vehicle, lighter, and yet I'm only losing 2 inches of ground clearance compared to their 35s and I'll be able to drive mine more for less money and maintenance downtime. Plus it'll make me think more offroad and ideally make me a better driver.
7.50s are a good size for general off-roading. They were fitted standard to Australian market Land Cruiser from the 1960s up to 2017 and most brands of 4WD came with them back in the day. Many prospectors, station workers and remote travelers still use them. One of the advantages of them being so narrow is that they pick up less punctures.
And they are reasonably capable off road with the diameter being closer to a "33" than a "31" (most 31" tyres are barely 30" tall).
Actually the difference in ground clearance between 33 and 35 is only 1 inch, not 2. It’s the 1 inch on the bottom half of the tire. The 1 inch on the top half of the tire only fills the wheel well, but doesn’t give you clearance. It validates your choice of 33 over 35 even more so. If you wanted 2 inches of ground clearance over 33s, you would have to go up to 37s.
@@juanpinto5743 @Juan Pinto yeah didn't explain that well. I was going between my 7.5r16 (31 inches actual VS 31.8 advertised) VS a 35. Then the fun part is that the 35 probably measures 34 inches.
I like the trick from the guy installing the tyres at 6:30. Saving his back by using his toes to lift the tyres. Cool 😎
I liked that too... but when my vehicles is on a jack I don't like putting my hands or feet under the tire incase it falls...
Good video Dan. I was very favorable towards 35" tires for comfort, but the footprint isn't so much bigger than 33", so I plan to go same path as you with steel wheels and 33" tires. Regarding the valve, I have seen guys weld part of metal pipe to the wheel to protect the valve from impacts. I plan of course good puncture repair kits, also I plan to have tubes and tools that will able me to repair and use heavily damaged tire to get into next town. Spare valve is also smart. And practice to take tire of the wheel and remove the valve and re install it at home with the basic tools you can get. I have done it in the middle of river in winter, that is put tire back on to the wheel with basic tools, it can be done, but smart to practice at home before you go.
This is fantastic advice - thank you!!
You're so welcome!
Nice video Dan 🚜👍❤
My ram 1500 classic tradesman came with Yokohama geolander all terrain tires from the factory I custom ordered my truck tradesman quad cab 4x4 with lots of extras there awesome tires 👍😊
Hi Dan,. Carry some Colby valve stems with you. I carry them, but haven't had to use them yet personally, but have seem them in action saving somebody else's behind. They install from the outside. So long as you are running on board air, you are golden.
Have seen these save a rig out in the field - totally worth carrying a pair around
I love the look of steel wheels… my only hang-up is the additional rotational weight as opposed to aluminum.
These steel wheels are actually the same weight as the stock wheels!
Agreed! I've been running steel wheels but highly considering dropping down to Aluminum for the rust and corrosion resistance, and the reduced weight. Today's aluminum wheels are actually engineered to be more durable to stand up to off-roading/overlanding usage.
@@jakealcazar3805 get a set of powder coated steel wheels. Not sure if this is the issue, but especially salt will attack Aluminium rims pretty quick...
I don't see the point of spending money on new wheels that are the same size as the stock wheels. The wheel wells are able to accommodate 35 inch tires without lifting or modifying the suspension, so there would have no penalty for upgrading.
awesome video
I like it that you've not gone for huge oversized tyres. Australians love big fat tyres on their 4WDs, but not as much as Americans!
I'm more of a skinny tyre devotee. Just put on a set of BFG KM3 255/85 R16 mud terrains on my LandCruiser Troopy. Took them out for a sandy/muddy test last week and was very impressed. A little bit noisier than the OEM tyres on bitumen, but not too bad at all. And they air down nicely with a long footprint.
High profile Tires are a big win!
The width all depends on how heavy your truck is, too wide can be just as bad as too skinny.. a light truck can make any tire shine, I had the 255/85-16” bfg mud terrain on my old Toyota pickup, it was an incredible tire and performed very well, years ago I recall showing up to a mud pit with a huge audience of red necks getting stuck in their built full side trucks.. when it was my turn to blast through the mud pit in my 1987 Toyota everyone was laughing and saying nasty things.. when I blasted through effortlessly the laughter stopped, lol
Another reason why you don’t want a negative offset is because it wears out your wheel bearings and limits your turning radius, and as you mentioned that police will tax you if they stick out.. that’s getting expensive $$ I’d have gone with a forged aluminum rim$$ better stopping, faster acceleration, smoother ride, better fuel economy.. it’s a lot stronger than a cast aluminum rim, but the only negative is the cost, but will pay for itself eventually with better fuel efficiency.
I love your channel, Dan!
Cheers!
Hi Dan,l was using Yokohama A/T Geolander tire for a long time 3 sets mainly on off-road on Australian autback very good tires but replaced average 40-45000km and very sensative side wall easy to destroyed also hard to get in small country town or far from home just impassible. I hope your new next generation Yokohama tyres will serve you much better. I’m using last few years also on Australian autback BF Ko2 and it’s really much much better. Have a nice day.
Good advice Dan. Go to outback Australia and you don't see big wheels and tyres on locals 4WDs. They echo exactly what you are saying. The Landcruiser 70 Series is ubiquitous in Outback Australia just like in Africa and Asia. 90% of them run the standard steel split rims and good name brand tyres. They know what works.
In Australia you have to only apply to the vehicle mod laws in which state the car is registered in, so you would not get defected in the other states that the mod is not allowed
Thanks Dan; Leaving to Tuktoyuktuk in mid September and was considering running 35's on my Jeep JL. Very good sound advice.......staying with the stock 33's. Thanks for the advice. t
Have fun!
I am looking to head up to Tuktoyuktuk this year, did you make it up this past year? How was it in September? Tom, any tips or pointers that Dan hasn't covered in his other videos?
@@escapingthenest2020 Just a couple, the Dempster as you know is all gravel/dirt/mud. What you might not know is they us a local shale type rock crushed for gravel..... it's very sharp. You must keep your speed down or suffer flats. There are very few camping locations along the road, few places to pull off and the limited camp grounds are mostly full during August/September so find camp early. Even in those two months storms roll in super fast with heavy winds so your RTT may take a beating if you don't find cover in a good treed camp ground. There are sights just coming into Tuk that you need to see that no one shows...... The sewer lagoon and the garbage dump..... it's very interesting how they have to deal with this kind of thing that no one thinks about. Things move slowly in Tuk so expect late openings and long lunch hours. It was a great trip you'll love it... and of course expect to replace your wind shield after this trip. t
Thanks for the video great explanation the only thing I don’t like is locks for my wheels had somebody break one before thank God it wasn’t in the middle of nowhere a nightmare getting it locked back off my WheelBe blessed
👍 I've had the "key" socket stripped by a tire shop using a dang impact gun on it. Then the clowns tried to say the tires wouldn't fit. I had ordered a set of "retro" steel wagon wheel rims in white to match the Jeep to go with the 31/10.5×15 MT's. Luckily I had the stock steel rims on it. I had to smash off center caps the grind flats on them to get them off.
The valve stems will be fine but if you are concerned get the tyre dealer to give you a couple of spares and buy the tool for inserting them on Ebay, You will also need the tools to remove the tyre of course to replace the valve stem.
good t osee ur new car probably the most experienced 4wd guy on youtube
I've been running black steel wheels (cop wheels) for a long time and Dan is correct in his thoughts on them. We no longer deliberately do hard core offroading but we do find ourselves climbing a section of rock ledges on a poorly maintained mine access road or picking our way along a boulder garden when a stream has jumped its banks in winter storms and I've been using HT tires for some time and find them just fine. HT=Highway/Terrain. Not quite AT level but miles better than LT or passenger tires and inexpensive, like really inexpensive.
If you get Mopar Rubicon high top fender flares, those are not only higher, but also wider about an inch. So you can legally go wider without wheels popping out of the fenders.
I wonder if you’ll bump in to Grizzly and Bear in the outback !
That would be interesting.
Luv your videos Mate! Born here but my parents are from Uruguay South America hopefully u liked it! Please update us on how reliable the gladiator around Australia goes! 👍👍
Will do!
Yokohama don't seem to be that popular amongst overlanders/offroaders here in Oz, & I have to admit, I hadn't really considered them as I was really happy with another brand for many years. When I bought my Defender I needed tyres almost immediately & in the size I wanted, 255/85 R16, the cost was considerable. Yoko MT G003 were $100 per tyre cheaper than other brands with really good specs & reviews. So far they have been amazing on all the varied terrain I drive. I also live in SW Vic & play in the Otways mud from time to time, hence the muddies rather that AT tyres.
Hey Dan, we spoke on the forums about this. Glad you made a video to spread the word! Happy I could help and the build looks awesome!
Thanks again!
Love the steel wheels. I run them on my Gladiator also. I was able to use my stock lug nuts.
Do you run center caps on yours? I’ve read that the stock caps on the sport don’t work with the steelies.
@@airforceman234 yes I have caps on mine.
@@black_widow_overland which caps are you using?
@@airforceman234 cap im using are off my 2009 jku sport 16" wheels.
Big shout out to Dean Shirley from Blue Ridge Overland! Mad props!!
Have you looked into a stubby valve stim? That would help reduce the risk of something happening
I’ve read that the JK stock steel wheel center caps fit on the JT spare steel wheels if that interests you. I will be doing the same set up as you but with BFG KO2s.
Do you happen to have a part number on those center caps? I might get them for my JT steel wheels. I did like Dan and ordered 5 when I bought my Gladiator
@@ryancrouch3238 I don’t but if you search for JKU 16” steel wheel center caps I think it’ll show up.
Have you considered Colby ultimate valves?
I do 5 tire rotations. That way the spair does not just sit there and I get more life out if my set of tires.
Would you happen to know or have a link for the most commonly available tire sizes in this range, globally? It seems availability is a key detail to look for. Great wisdom in your video here!
my recommendation would be: Go with a tire size that is stock size on a widespread vehicle. (does not mean you can not go with something bigger, at least when the size is stock on something else) Maybe it would be better to ask what a widespread tire size is for a single continent (you want to travel to)
I think if gravel and paved roads are the goal I'd probably go with a Subaru and small trailer, but hey my idea of remote is 2 hours from plumbing 😯
Totally agree. I run a HD 10 ply 34" tire on my F-150 on factory HDPP wheels.
My approach is,
Big - get the biggest OME tires - which should be legale at the same time.
Width - look at Paris - Dakar or any other Events where money is no issue! Relatively skinny tires!
AT - best choice for overlanding. What I take along are four (snow)chains which work wonders, also in the short and seldom situations where mud is an issue!
Last point you didn't mention but which could be an issue is availability! The tire size you fit should be a generally available tire and not a - no matter how good - odd ball. All 4 of your wheels should be the same at all time!
Thanks for a realistic view on tires (tyres, eh?)! So sick of all the yahoo’s going on about their massive tires because they “look good”.
I would LOVE to have you review this video and then do a new video on tires where you answer all your speculation in this video!
Also, do you do 4 or 5 tires rotations?
five tire rotation so I can get as much life out of them as possible.
The tires and choice were excellent for the trip, not a single issue and they took me everywhere I wanted to go.
Dynamic steelies.... Think they are Australian engineered.
Running the beadlocks on mine, comes standard with valve stem protection!
I'm also considering switching to steel. I keep scratching my nice Aloys. With steel I could just rattle can them black again . I could go with stock Bronco steel wheels but I would need spacers..... So my debate is buy offset steel wheels or hubcentric spacers....
Dan doesn't say, but did he get free Yokohama tires? Andrew SP White was very proud that he got free tires and wheels for his Troopy build. Off- roaders in Australia all seem to think they are the best off-roaders, but maybe they are. In the good old USA the ones that spend the most think they are.
Steel is always a smart choice. Also, running the size tires the manufacturer recommends is wise, especially when going overland. Not to say you can't run bigger ones, but you have to watch the width measurement if you want to keep them inside the fenders. I would consider a bit of a lift on that Gladiator though. They have notoriously poor breakover angles, even the Rubicons. You are likely to get really badly stuck on Dunes without a bit of extra lift. (and a stack of Maxxtracks) I've seen more than a few really built up Ute's get stuck from high centering on soft or steep terrain. You are reduced about 25% on your breakover, approach and departure angles in a Gladiator over a standard 4 door Wrangler, and 50% or more over a 2 door Wrangler on the breakover. So be very aware when out and about.
285/80r17 would be the bee's knees for a JT Gladiator with a 2 inch lift/higher rate springs for overlanding.
@@gen1c8rs88
You're totally off. The size you're recommending is what he has, just a bit wider.
Spot on!
@@GATORADDAM Dan has 285/70r17, same width as a 285/80r17. Only difference is his is a 33 inch tyre and the tyre diameter I would like is a 35 inch tyre.
@@gen1c8rs88
I stand corrected. I missread that somehow.
Hi, do you have the part number to the mopar steel wheels that will not fit on the gladiator? Thanks. Great content and knowledge again!
They are commonly called "Mopar Winter Wheels" - Mopar Part Number 52124455AB
Hi, what type of engine oil will you be using with the extra weight in your jeep?
Hey Dan, I like the wheels. Your stock lug nuts didn’t didn’t work with the steelies? I’m probably going to order 5 for my lifted Wrangler and get some Geolandar M/Ts 255/80/17 pizza cutters.
Hey i suscribed to your channel and love the info you give. If you were to run a jeep wrangler rubicon 392 non-xr (33 inch tires) for overlanding what size tires would you run?
Depends entirely on where you are going, and what terrain you expect.
But I've driven Alaska to Argentina, right around Africa and right around Australia, and 33s were always perfect.
I think size of tyre is more imperative if you are going a lot off road. Tyre size will determine how much clearance you have under the diff and how much wall flex you will have.
A 37 inch tyre is not as good on a 22 inch rim as it would be on a 17 inch rim as the side wall flex is a lot less.
And a 31 inch tyre won't give you anywhere near the diff clearance even if you put a 6 inch lift on your car.
People forget we need to get to the offroad track somehow.
Good choice on tire size. I think I speak for everyone here in America.... Thank God we don't have the same restrictions and nanny state policies like you have there. There would be an absolute revolt! 😂😀😜
Omg 😱 i went to 37 :)
"I don't go to heavy off road places thats why I bought a rubicon with locking diffs and sway bar disconnects, ha ha
I m totally agree with you about your arguments about tires. But, about the rims I think a bit different. Alloy rims are a lot different in terms of strength and roundness than were 25 years ago. Probably, if I were you, I would keep the factory rims, because the weigth and the roundness . Do you have a well aquired knowledge or expertise that leads to avoid a damage rim, but s... happens and yes, no doubt about, steel is easier to repair. On the other hand, is rare that the steel wheels that you purchased weigths the same than alloys, it leads me to think, or the steel wheels are for lightweight use or the OEM alloys are very strong. Nevertheless keep your plan ahead, I m enjoying a lot.
is your 5th/spare wheel part of your rotation? would think yes to wear them at the same rate.
Yes, always. Five tire rotation every 10,000 kms
Get mud flaps or you will still kick up rocks and mud on the doors and out back. I bought removable ones that work great. Protect my doors and the trailer I tow.
We shall see. Lol.
I looked at a Gladiator 2 years ago when deciding on my 4x4. The long wheelbase and bad breakover angle just didn't fit my ideas of an off-roader. To me it would need a 3 inch lift and at least 35s to make it capable enough for what I wanted it for.
So I went with a new Tacoma TRDoffroad. I did lift it 3 inches and put on 33 inch BFG KO2s. I definitely cleared rock ledges in Colorado that Gladiators on 33s dragged belly and tail on. And my 3 point turns on switchbacks were 5 point turns to them.
I did run into a Gladiator (on a jobsite) with a lift on 37s that was bad ass! And the tires were inside the fenders. Taller doesn't have to be crazy wider. Now that one I wouldn't wanna go up against!
On the note of 5 wheels, do you do a 5 tire rotation? How often?
Yep, always, and around 10,000km (6,000 miles)
@theroadcoseme should definitely reach out to @grizzlynbearoverland. You are both in Oz building up your rigs before heading out to tour the country.
We will be meeting up for sure!
Love the steelys
If they get damaged fix with a hammer. You can't fix Aluminum without breaking it worse
I 'd like to see the back of a Jeep dealer in 4x4 country - probably a recyclers dream.
Ooh, your video triggered an idea for another video... what’s the “globally legal” vehicle build? You note tires sticking outside the fenders, but what about window tints, lifts, view out rear view, items mounted to windshields, etc... Seems like something you might just have the answer to!
I've talked about that kind of thing in many of my previous videos.. especially a few of the top 5 ones.
Why not 285x75r17 ?
Method Racing wheels makes a 17x7.5 aluminum wheel that has approximately the same offset as OEM.
They are also lighter- problem is when you use steel wheels you get to brag that your going to use a hammer to smash the wheel back together when you destroy a steel wheel! Lol
How often do you actually smash a wheel? How many people have ever smashed a wheel back into shape? Nah, I’d take the lighter weight and all the performance benefit it gives me.
@@Upliftyourbrothers I tend to agree, even Andrew on 4Xoverland has said a simular statement. Only if you get into wreck, are doing some serious off roading, or are not paying attention could be cause for a bent wheel(even then it's extremly rare). For a compitent touring style overlander this may never happen(and Dan has a 285(295 for a BFG) on a 7.5 width wheel), though it gives them piece of mind.
What brand wheels are these! I want to get then for my wifes fj
It's the mopar spare wheel for the Gladiator - you can get them from any dealer
What do you do with your old tires that aren’t old?
I've got them in Dad's shed for now.. I will have to decided if I'm going to sell the stock rims and tires now and then later sell the Jeep with what I have on it, or swap them back around. I'll decide later.
So the BF Goodrich KO2s(stock) were not good enough? Also, that new Jeep Gladiator would not be presenting too much "bling" in Africa?
Stock tyres for export JL and JT Rubicons are 255/75r17 a oddball size and they are BFG KM2 MT's.
K02 are getting a bit old nowadays, nothing particularly wrong with them, but there's better tyre technology out there now that seems to work really well. Yokohama are pretty cheap here in Oz in comparison & readily available everywhere. For example, in the current hot tyre size of 255/85 R16, the Yoko MT G003 is over $100 per tyre cheaper than the Bridgey KM3. Whether Dan pays or not, they're a seriously compelling choice out here.
@@gaj5701 And the G003 is a lighter(than a KM3 yet not a smaller diameter tyre compared to the KM3) yet sturdy MT, excellent for a overlanding MT.
@@gen1c8rs88 So far they've been amazing, & I drive on every surface in my part of the world (Victoria Aus) from rock to clay pan mud. You have to immediately drop to around 12psi on soft sand as the sidewalls are so strong, but that's no drama in reality. Surprisingly nice on the road too, even in the wet. I seriously rate them as an awesome tyre so far (24,000km) 👍
AEV JL wheels would have been PERFECT for you but unfortunately they don’t make steel wheels
They showed a set on one of their SEMA vehicles in 2019 but haven’t brought them to market yet. Not sure if they still are going to.
@Ryan Crouch - they are coming.
Curious did you get the Yokohama tires in a load e range? Or standard load range?
I know load e have more durable side walls which can take more abuse but they are also much heavier tire
The X-AT in this size are LT tires (E Load Range)
@@TheRoadChoseMe ah okay cool thanks for the feedback!
Dan what brand of steel wheel are these? Greetings from ALABAMA.
They're the mopar spare for the Gladiator - mine came with one underneath. You can get them from any dealer
@@TheRoadChoseMe thanks man. I enjoy all of your videos.
When I understand correctly you have the same rim size as the Orginals rims? So you only changed the rims because you prefer Steel over the Orginal (Aluminium) wheels?
Correct
@@TheRoadChoseMe thanks for the reply. What width are the Gladiator rims? 8 inch?
Why even change the rim?
Why steel wheels?
Did you need the lift kit to run these tires?
No, this is the same tire size the Gladiator comes with stock in North America.
@The Road Chose Me cheers for the comment. Out of interest what was the reason you lifted yours if not for the tire size? I just bought a rubicon but don't want to lift it it's not necessary. I think I'll go with 285/70r17 but there's a 285/75r17 which is about 33.8", did you look into this at all?
I wanted to be able to carry the weight. Details here: th-cam.com/video/D5hyAsNx0FM/w-d-xo.html
I was just saying that most of the aftermarket wheels people put on their 4wds look so gimmicky or tacky (IMO of course). For an honest 4wd form follows function and a good set of quality steel wheels is just the thing. I'm not looking for "bling" I want bomb-proof out in the wilds.
Couldn't have said it better myself!
What sizes is those rims and what is the offset
They're the 17 inch spare rim that the Gladiator comes with. I just ordered more from Mopar.
@@TheRoadChoseMe do you know the offset
Not off hand, but there's a ton of threads about them on all the Gladiator forums
www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/factory-spare-steel-wheels.42087/
In your trip around Oz, did you ever get pulled over by the Police?
I did go through one random breath test, yes (they stop every vehicle and make you blow into the bag to test for alcohol).
I was also *very* close to getting weighed and tested on fraser island (missed it by hours)
@@TheRoadChoseMe had you weighed your truck anywhere previous? I have a 2022/23Gladiator sitting in the lot waiting for my JKU to be ready for trade in. First thing I’m doing is heading to the weigh bridge with a full take of fuel and my family and getting a (hopefully accurate) starting weight before we set it up and hit the cape in June this year!
Yep, I weighed it when it was bone-stock and then again before I hit the road after the build when it was fully outfitted. It was basically right at the GVM when fully loaded.
hey are you meeting up with #4xoverland @4xoverland #andrewstpierrewhite @andrewstpierrewhite or #ronnydahl @ronnydahl ??
Yeah! Biased user here... 😂 Going to look for a solution for the exposed hubs?
I never realized how much of a pain in the ass Australia is. It sounds a lot like California, only worse. Thanks for the great tips mate!
The problem is the Gladiator Rubicon has a drastically longer wheelbase and 33 inch tires, just like the Wrangler Rubicon , plus it’s MUCH heavier when fully loaded. 35x11.50r17 should have been the factory fitment ...so that’s the minimum size for serious off-road travel. Plus it fits in the factory spare location. The Mopar 2 inch lift would be a good choice too. I wouldn’t pick a 37x12.50 R17 inch either;) Plus it’s outside the recommended width of any of the standard factory rims. As an added bonus the aspect ratio of a 35 is noticeably better at protecting the rims and has better floatation. And isn’t so much bigger you’d notice much need to regear. But 4.56 gears fully loaded in deep sand would feel much better;)
Any idea who makes a high quality 35x11.5r17?
@@ryancrouch3238 Toyo Open country a/t III. Or many more choices in 285/75r17. 1.1 inches taller than stock, fits on factory rims and probably wouldn’t rub at all, even off-road.
@@ryancrouch3238 nitto trail grapplers is a great 35x11.50
Australia has way to many vehicle rules when it comes to tires.
In what way is replacing Rubicon stock wheels and tires budget wise?
You can sell the stock Rubicon wheels and tires and likely make all of your money back and possibly even a little bit more following the exchange.
And he is sponsored, so very budget friendly.
37s aren’t so ubiquitous in the U.S. to justify people running them so much. You’re not going to stroll down to the average tire shop and get them.
Steel wheels bend easier than quality aluminum wheels as a start, I’d worry that being designed as a spare it’ll be lighter and weaker than most of the aftermarket steel wheels, I would have saved my money and ran the stock wheels as the rubicon ones are very strong. They’ll take some scrapes and stuff but don’t bend or break easily.
Color match your steel wheels
is there anything that Australia is not tyrannical about?
Most places in Canada and USA it’s illegal to have tires that stick out. I know people that have gotten tickets for it.
I assume a lot of places that it’s on par with tint in terms of enforcement though and cops don’t bother?
@@gs98999 my point is that cops in Australia do not ignore it, becuase they are tyrannical
I'm sorry you don't have freedom in Australia. That's so sad that your overly bureaucratic authoritative government suppresses innovation in something as simple as tires. What else do they not allow you to do when it comes to choices?