SIDE MOTOR MOUNT INSTALL!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- Today We Demonstrate Replacing the Passenger Side Motor Mount a Mazda 3, 5 or Mazdaspeed3! Join our Community of DIY'ers: www.youtube.com... Follow us on Facebook for More DIY Goodness: / e.doityourself
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The FoMoCo (Ford Motor Company) passenger side motor mounts have been well-known to fail after a relatively short amount of time. Fortunately, replacing this mount with an OEM type or aftermarket mount is an inexpensive and technically easy job to accomplish on your own. For those curious individuals, our previous mount lasted 60,000 miles before needing a replacement.
Parts:
- DEA A4403 OEM TYPE PASSENGER SIDE MOTOR MOUNT
link: (www.amazon.com/...)
Tools Used:
- 17 MM Socket
- 1/2" Ratchet
- 12" Extension
- 1/2" Torque Wrench
- Floor Jack
The DIY Rep in this Video is Ally!
To send letters, products for review/use, other correspondence - please use this address:
everythingdiy
P.O. Box 186
Pasadena, CA 91102
FTC Disclaimer:
All products mentioned were purchased by us. None of the companies mentioned are paying us for this video. All opinions are our own.
Other Disclaimers- Everything you do is at your own risk. Everything DIY or its affiliates are not responsible for any personal injury or property damages incurred.
**SAFETY FIRST EVERY TIME**
Just in case anyone is wondering, I was able to use the trunk jack (for changing spares) to complete this. Just make sure you use a 2x4 or other piece of wood to spread out the weight. Other than that the instructions were perfect. A couple other quick tips:
- The undercarriage cover bolts are 10mm.
- The bolts for my mount were incredibly tight. I'm a big guy (6'4" / 200lbs) and I couldn't get them off with a ratchet alone. I didn't have a breaker bar, so I used an old length of pipe, slid it on the end of my ratchet and used that to break the stubborn nuts. Hope that helps!!
Lastly, THANK YOU! This video was fantastic. It was easy to follow, and very well shot. It saved me 300 bucks. You rock!
+TheChiefFSU Thanks for the contribution!
But always reccomend that DIY mechanics own a good breaker bar, which is not merely for torque leverage but also to avoid damaging a rachet wrench with having to break a heavy load.
A brilliantly clear video - many thanks.
One point I'd add is the nut part of the early clipnuts the undertray bolts go into have a habit of breaking free when you undo them so they just spin. The part was revised to stop this but be prepared to have to find a way to hold the nut while undoing the bolt if you have an older car. There's a TSB on this: Replace the clips, grease the bolts.
I've found that even main dealers just leave in the front bolts when in this happens instead of replacing the clips and then pull down the undertray when doing an oil & filter change, bending and/or cracking it in the process. TW White & Sons of Surrey, UK, I'm talking about you.
Thanks great tutorial! I didn't think the job was so simple, I'm definitely going to tackle this myself. There is no issue in lifting the engine slightly by the oil pan, this is not a regular tin pan, it's aluminum just like the engine block and is very stout and a little upward pressure isn't going to be a problem, again nicely done and I hope I can remain as clean as you when i'm done!
2023 and you're still saving me money.
Holy cow, what's not to like? Clear, concise instructions. Step by step video. And a wrench jockey who's not hard to look at!
Good job.
You should do one on the PCV replacement...I fumbled through a vid I put up last year on that that has 10K hits. Nobody else has done a good one. You would do a much better job than mine, I think.
Hi!, I guess you shouldn't fasten in that 2 bolts at 4:52 as the engine was still being pushed up, you need to release the jack below to lower the engine and let the engine mount sits freely
first....
Nice catch ... we'll have another episode on how to diagnose front clunking noise.
Nice video. Changed my mount out today and this video helped tremendously! If anybody is having any trouble with the 2 nuts and 2 bolts, mine were a b*tch to get off, bust out the PB blaster and if you have an impact wrench use it. You will be much happier, believe me.
J Nio Ive managed to take the bolts off the mount but I can't get the two top nuts off. I've tried the PB Blaster as well and still nothing. Any suggestions?
Thanks for posting this video! This is very simple to do and can save a ton of money. The only suggestion I would offer is to use a deep socket to remove the nuts. I used a standard length sock, which was just long enough to reach the nut, but not completely. Fortunately I realized before it was too late that a deep socket was needed.
Thank you for the tip about jacking up the engine more to get the motor mount out. I was about to have to wait for my neighbor to get home and ask him to help me get it out. That sucker would not budge until I jacked it up a bunch more.
This had to be made after the “rear motor mount” video. Lol. Just when I thought your videos couldn’t get any better...Bam! You pulled out the 18v lithium ion impact from Makita!! Hell yeah! I own one too and been using it on my car for years!
Thank you! Just did this to my Mazda 3 2008 2.0L with my Dad and no more rattling noise. Granted the bottom of my rubber mount was completely separated from the metal, but we were unable to tell from just looking at it. Thanks for the video and help!
I had a 92 626 the only issues we ever had were motor mounts. They were way more agraving to do also, well done
This is really grate job, never dared to do that. would you please share a video for how to recharge the A/C.
This is fantastic.. I have a 5 and it has the exact same issue. Would love to see more work on your 3!
One of the best instructional 's on subject I have seen, thanks!
Thanks for sharing your car repair videos! I found out from emailing a picture to several mechanics today that my side mount exploded hydraulic fluid but I thought it was coolant since it was directly under the reservoir. I dont have a torque wrench or an impact driver, so I'll have to pay the $240 the dealer wants to replace this part :(
Didn't want to do this work myself. I wanted the mechanic to do it. After I got the price quote of close to $300 from one shop to replace two of the mounts, and just shy of $500 from another garage, I caved in to financial reality and ordered mounts and will install myself. Thanks for this video.
I just noticed some oil spils on the side , i was worried and not sure what it is .I was wondering it could be engine oil. Then pushed the rubber above the mount, i could feel it that mount is the culprit. Found your Video Its really a great relief. Thanks a lot .
Learned lot from your videos . Thanks again.
Great job. Got the eye protection and the Cali shirt.
well the 2 nuts around the studs are completely stripped now and I even tried to cut the nuts with a cutter but that didn't work either. I have to get a mechanic with some more tools to take it off now. great video though it did help alot!!
Are you ever going to do/inspect the transmission motor mount? When it has damage, it's not as obvious as the other side.
Great video!! Use a pocket knife to get the overflow tank off though, too difficult with a screwdriver
She's the cleanest mechanic ever.... and look even with a white long sleeve shirt to boot... nice job
thirsty.
I wish my daughter would do her own motor mounts. I think I will make her watch this video. hehe.
Took my 2000 Ford Focus had this replaced. Was my fault came upon a high speed bump and I didn't win. Forked out $134 at local garage. Now she is quiet. One off my bucket list.
Yrah got a rocky motor I.e. vibes getting it done through the warranty dealer gave me (obvs do it myself otherwise) nice work seems simple enough
Estas hermosisima...quedas cordialmente invitada a Chile!! City Arica.❤❤❤
An angel out there to crush greedy auto mechanics.
Good job 👍💪
Thank you so much! Was able to use this to replace the engine mount in my car. My 05 mazda 3 would shake when in neutral and in front of red lights, car worked fine while driving so took some time to diagnose the problem was with the engine mount.
Is your engine mount bad? Check for cracks in the rubber and/or liquid below the engine mount. That's what tipped me off.
Thanks again.
Great video. Very well explained. I wish all the other videos would be like this one, Thanks.
looks easier to do than i would've though
congrats on keeping your WHITE long sleeve shirt... white
I really like this channel and will be using it to do the same mods.
thanks for the video i just bought a 2010 mazda 3 and my side mount has gone. I will probably replace all the mounts.
Just recently bought a 2011 Mazda3 and all was great, until last night it started shaking on the passenger front side during stops while on DRIVE mode. Did a little google search, sure enough, passenger Motor Mount. What tools did you exactly use??
It's in the video description.
Video was magnificent and thorough as I did it :) thank you! Will definetly come back for more.
Good one...very detailed and precise thanks. Glad to see your wearing safety glasses. ~Safety First!! : )
I have just had the problem. Great video explanation. Thanks
If I need to replace both side and transmission mount which is more important?
straight to the point. awesome video
I love your channel so much thank you I needed this!!!
This video helped with my install. Thank you.
Very nice video but you forgot to put the torque for the regular mazda 3 : )
white sleeves to work on your car, so brave
Wish there was a Transmission Mount tutorial. Mine needs to be replaced but I need to know how to remove the battery compartment and air intake.
Good job girl
I just love your very helpful videos, keep up the amazing work :)
what do you do if the motor mount bracket where the two studs go brakes? car currently has one bolt keeping the motor mount on place. Thanks in advance for your advice.
what made you want to get OEM rather than a polyurethane mount? I got a 2012 Skyactiv and may need to do this soon
4:03 "Now we're gunna replace deez nutz"
..... and twist and twist and twist and twist ..... deez nutz.
watch it sober and not buzzzzzzzed, will take care of that
Good job thanks for sharing this video
Do they make a replacement profit mace mount in this mounts place? I'm gonna replace the bottom mount with a upgrade but what about this one
Thanks hopeful I won't need this for a few miles but still.
Is this a shallow or deep socket 17mm?
Hey I'm wondering will this be the same with mazda6? The oil pan part esp.. Also it seems you've hurt your finger while doing it, please wear protection gloves :)
I've been looking all over for a 2010 Mazda 3 engine mount 3. Can't find it anywhere and the one you use is for up to 2009. Any ideas where to find the right engine mount where they aren't bad spinoffs and bad parts like on Rockauto?
mazda 3 2.0 RHD 2006. I wanted to replace lower control arm but the compressor is in the way. read online I need to undo the motor mount so I get enough space for LCA forward bolt. When you supported the engine, removed the motor mount was it difficult to align it and screw it back in? I noticed the engine moved. Also, if I undo only this motor mount, can I raise the engine by an inch so I can remove the LCA forward bolt? I want the compressor be raised by an inch. Thanks.
Hi,
When you loosened off the final bolts the engine shifted an inch or so. How did you shift the engine a little to align the bolts back up? did someone just push on the engine or push on the jack holding the engine?
Just push the engine with your hand. It was very easy to move since the jack is on wheels.
The part you linked got some mixed reviews. How is it fairing so far?
Auto zone sells the mount without the bracket.. Any tips on how to reuse the bracket??
nice video....where did you learn this. are you a mechanic
Do you think you could do a coolant change?
Thanks for your answer.
Best video. Thanks.
This help a lot
Awesome thanks this was most helpful
Do the mount on your description link works for 2010 Mazda 3s 2.5 L ? I just can't find a mount that says that's compatible with that exact model.
Mad respect. thank you.
i feel like this is probably a dumb question but just wanted to confirm. i don't own a hydraulic lift to hold up the engine. can i just use the jack that came with the car with the 2x4? or do i will a need a better jack for safety? thanks for the video!
The jack that comes with the car should work but please use caution and use a piece of 2 by 4 wood as a barrier between the oil pan and jack.
1:07 LMAO A-U-T-O-M-A-T-I-C!
Is that an OE brand mount or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what brand do you recommend?
Same problem happens on a Ford Focus. Same steps to fix. Probably similar to other newer Ford vehicles.
+Harry of All Trades Some Focii have a rigid aircon pipe wrapped over and fixed to the static part of the mount, which I presume complicates things somewhat.
I would like to buy like your makita ... can you please put the link from amazon with the same specification
Well done!
Hello,
Could you please make a step video on how to change the two serpentine belt? I have a mazda 3 I 2011 . I think its the same as older models, and speeds.
Absolutely! We just noticed our belt is starting to slip on our 2008, so we'll go ahead and start planning this for our next video. Thanks for watching!
How do I know which one is the bad .... ?
actually my car vibrate and I feel on all the car
(feel like handheld vibrating massager )
and more on the wheel
even in reverse, parking, or running mode.
Will this fit on my 2006 mazda 3 2.0? The amazon webpage says it does not fit, but on the comments section they are saying it fits for both 2.0 and 2.3.
Hey I have a Honda Civic and my car is vibrating I took it to a mechanic who said he thinks it's the side engine mount and I took it to another mechanic who thinks it's the bushings that are cracked because he doesn't see a crack in the mount or any fluid leaking can you tell me what you recommend thanks
Excellent video. Took all of 30 minutes to swap out the mount. Would recommend you do get the right 6 point socket. I had to use a deep socket to remove the stud nuts along with a cheater bar. Likely would have stripped them if I had used a 10 point socket.
Awesome show !!
What drill are you using? And which would you recommend?
Makita impact driver. Have had it for years no issues whatsoever. Would definitely recommend it to anyone looking for a reliable impact drill.
Hi I had a question.. I have a Mazda s 3 2004 and the motor is close to touching the ground. I look at the motor mount and it's pretty messed up. But do u think that could be it? I feel like there's something more then just the mount.
+marcos rodriguez It's most likely a motor mount. There are 2 mounts that keep the engine level, the passenger motor mount (the one in the video) and the transmission mount (underneath the air intake). If your engine is sagging I would most definitely get it checked as soon as possible as they could potentially fail while driving. Let me know if you have any questions.
wow! thank you, very usefull...
What years Mazda 3 is this video for? Thanks
are the 2.3 and 2.5 motor mounts the same?
Great vid. I'm doing the driver's side mount this weekend. I'll do the passenger one next weekend.
Nuts, not bolts. Remember: bolts are male, nuts are female.
Do you know if all Mazda3's use the same Passenger Side Motor Mount?? I'm trying to buy a replacement online, and I'm stumbling upon several different part # that seems to be interchangeable... BCM4-39-060D , BCM4-39-060C, RC-EM0002A, etc. I drive a 2005 Mazda3 2.3L Hatchback.
+AzNightmare They are the same. Mazda has multiple part numbers for a single parts because they're usually used an a array of vehicles. If you don't see your part number listed in the interchangeable part numbers then it will not fit.
excellent work, i love you
Cosita Rica..❤❤❤❤😊😊😊
thank you !!
may we test out the rear seat together
How do you like that makita? is it 20vlt? I have the Dewalt 20 volt with the lithium ion and it does pretty well. You guys do nice videos keep it up. :)
18 volt. I love it, it makes jobs around the house and under the hood so much easier. My favorite thing about it is it's very compact and works well in tight spaces. Plus gotta love the lack of an air hose. Only wish is that it had a tad more power but hand tools suffice. Appreciate the support!
Now we're gonna replace deez nuts
watch it sober and not buzzzzzzzed, will take care of that
Did you work at the Mazda dealership?
What do i do if the piece the mount bolt on too snapped??
CydiaStuffReviews You mean the bolts (or studs) on the timing cover? You need to remove the remnants of the stud, try twisting it out by hand first but if that's not possible you'll need to use a bolt extractor. After that replace it with a new stud. I believe the part number is 9YA90A201. Here's a link: www.jimellismazdaparts.com/products/STUD/1817578/9YA90A201.html
Can you give some feedback on the aftermarket mount? It's all over the internet people saying only to buy genuine OEM mounts. I'm not sure what to believe cuz I suspect most forums are run by dealership employees trying to keep the business. Many times it's a highly guarded secret who the supplier of the genuine mount is to the car mfr.
It's been great no complaints, would buy again in a heartbeat. One thing you may notice if you have an automatic is a very very small amount of vibration at idle over the stock mount. That's because this mount is solid rubber rather than fluid filled like the OEM. It actually hold the motor better in my opinion so I think it's worth it. Don't be scared away by the vibration when I say small I mean tiny, I hardly ever notice it unless I'm looking for it. Hope this helps!
+everythingdiy Thanks for your reply. I actually have an 07 Mazda6 2.3 AT that I've already ordered genuine mounts for, but I was asking because I also need mounts for my 290k-mile '97 Accord & don't want to spend a lot on it.
Hopefully someone can help with this question. I just bought a 207 Mazda 3 and it hops and vibrates so my guess is this is the issue. My question is do I need to replace other motor mounts too, or just this one? I keep seeing posts about the passenger one so I'm guessing that it's the main problem?
+Cam Johnson Most likely just the passenger mount causing the issues but I would also check the rear motor mount while you're at it.
Cool, thanks! Great video BTW. Super helpful!
are the torque specs for the bolts
the same for the 2010 speed3?
For Speed vehicles you should torque them slightly more. Per the repair manual's specification, I would torque both the nuts and bolts to 60 ft lbs. I will add an annotation to the video with this information. Thanks for watching!
excellent 👍
I have a 2010 Mazda 3 GT 2.5L. Where can i buy the passenger motor mount
+Carlos S Your dealer, but I use rockauto.com for my parts
Planning to get this mount "Beck Arnley 1041779 ", Any advise on this please .
+ansar suban Seems to be well reviewed. Just make sure it's for the correct year.
+everythingdiy thanks for double checking
I changed it with help of your video. Its awesome now. Thanks a lot Ally.
Do you advise any brand for side and transmission motor, I couldn't find any review for mazda 3.