Thank you so much. I was completely stuck with the other instructions in other videos, even from the official one from Creality. Now it is completely clear to me and it works!! IT WORKS!! I'm ready for huge projects.
The whole levelling is worthless if you don‘t have turned on your bed heater to 80°C. Think at thermal expansion and deflection in cause of heat. I first levelled with a cold bed and as my print started the nozzel scratched over my warm bed. In this case stop your print, put the printed material in your trash can and start levelling with a heated bed. It‘s funny getting warm fingers, but be sure, the pain will stop in a couple of minutes..🤪🤪🤪
The manual that comes with the printer, the leveling instructions are different. I purchased my printer from Amazon who do I contact if I have questions or need technical support. Great printer the only issue I have a hard time removing the printed parts from the bed. 👍
If you have no problem about leveling, you needn't to level like that. You can use a hammer to knock the shovel gently to make the shovel into the model so that it is easy to shovel.
Make sure you let the print bed cool down all the way. I use a painters blade to get under the prints. but most of the time once the bed is cool (room temperature) it will pop off with little effort. It depends on how dirty the print bed gets. If your print bed gets too dirty (Filament from old prints) it will cause prints to stick to them stronger then normal.
if you are getting good prints but just hard to remove then you simply need to lift the nozzle a tiny bit for the first layer (you are too close) when you start a print tap the bottom right corner "adjust" button on the screen. now use the right arrow for Z Offset to raise it up a little (just like they do in this video actually) you probably do not need 0.2mm however. Just raise it 0.1mm if the filament detaches from the bed (nozzle too high) change it to 0.05 instead. also make sure your first layer is SLOW. 15mm/s max and if you are familiar with the slicer make the first layer hotter than your normal temperature. I print PLA with 220c for the first layer than 200c (or whatever I find the plastic prefers) for the rest of the print. slow and hot makes a big difference. use the z offset. that will make part removal a lot easier. allow it to fully cool. a small 4" mini hammer and a "cake knife" (You can search Reptor 3d removal on amazon) $13 For the tools. Very hand. angle down and "tap" with the hammer to get under the print once you are sure you are UNDER the print and not through it press in and DOWN "bending" the blade to flatten it against the bed and gently tap it in under the print with the hammer. once its a few inches in wiggle it side to side. you will hear the print releasing. Don't try to go all the way through. move sideways and keep wiggling and tapping around the print once you hit a critical mass point it will start to pop free. no damage to bed or printer or the print. Fine Tune that first level. the filament should be stuck to the bed and you should be unable to displace it when you touch it gently but it should not feel super flat and smooth. it should feel like "stuck fishing line" when you get that stuck fishing line feel you got it and now you will know what to look for in the future and adjust with the z offset as needed. 3D printing is NOT hard but it is not automatic. its very hands on and DIY but once you get the tricks its quite easy most of the time and becomes second nature.
@@crealityafter-sale5706 I use a plastic hammer to tap the edge of the part using the scaper provided, both large and small parts pop right off on one light whack.
My Creality CR-10S PRO that I received 2-weeks ago came with a warped build plate. I did not know this and I have been trying over and over again to level the bed to the nozzle with the manual and auto bed leveling procedures. The problem manifests in the first layer or build. I noticed first that the bead is the correct thickness in the middle of the build plate, and then as it traverses to the front or back (Y-direction) of the build plate, the bead becomes rounded and lifts off (auto level is ON). I have had no successful prints. I did use a micrometer and measured the thickness of the combined heat plate and plate as mounted. I finally found that the center thickness of these two plates is 0.6mm higher than the front and back edges of the build plate (7.12mm in the center of the Y versus 6.59mm thickness at Y=15 or 285). At the edge of the plate in the Y=155mm position I can see the warp and can physically press it down to meet the lower heating plate. I then took a straight edge across the plate front to back and it has a pronounced curvature. I noticed the level sensor will light in the center of the build plate when printing the first layer (which I expected), but then the light will go off when the nozzle traverses to the front or back of the plate (which I did not expect). The auto level parameters show the plate curvature as well. I need a new -- flat - build plate, this printer is only 2-weeks old. Thanks
HI Scott i had the same problems you wrote about. Change the sensor to inductive as Nexi did and it will solve your problem. Check his YT page th-cam.com/video/VH3zrRNOGfA/w-d-xo.html&t Although i received it bend more then 0,8mm i did get a nice print when using raft, but than the first layer isnt as smooth as when you are using brim.Each end very time you start a print after you turn off the computer you must make autoleveling. Good luck.
@@MrIFat2010 I did change the sensor to the Inductive one per that youtube video - I saw and it did not help since the auto level process still did not 'see' the high point in the warp. I still had lift off of the bead at the front and back of the plate while I was nearly bottoming out and dragging the nozzle in the middle of the plate. Basically, the high point in the warped build plate, which is along the X-axis, is not picked up by the auto-level process since it is in between test rows. I will say, the inductive sensor is more responsive and more consistent than the capacitive one - I have no intention of going to a glass build plate so this is a good fix. Since the above post I have done two things. Since the plate is bowed up in the middle, I removed the plate, stripped off the Creality build surface (which was not a very sticky surface on my machine, and then gently beat the warp point of the plate over the top of my thigh a few times while checking to see if it lessened the warp (I placed it on the bed of my table saw - a very flat surface). Although I cannot press and anneal the warped plate to remove the stresses causing the warp, I was able to remove (bend out) about one half of the warp. I then installed a Buildtak surface on the bottom side of the build plate and flipped it over on the heated bed. This way the clips pull down the now 'high' front and rear edges and I have now forced the plate into a more reasonably flat surface; still a bit high at the front and rear now, but no where near as bad as when I discovered this problem. I am now trying, again, to print the test dog. so far, the leveling print I tried just an hour ago came out very well with no layer jumps or separations. I would still prefer if Creality sent me a new - flat - build plate. I still have the problem that the nozzle will spit out some gobs early in the build process and these can screw up the build. I am now thinking of replacing the hot end with either an E3D V6 or a micro swiss all metal hot end. Also, the Buildtak surface is absolutely wonderful as compared to Creality's version. The adhesion is an order of magnitude better in my opinion. Dog test print is half way done and looks good so far - cross your fingers.
@@scottinharwood i get my cr-10s pro tmr and i am scared because your problems. But i can help you with your problems, because i had the same with the bed on my CR-10 too. The only help was to use a flat mirror and lay it on top of the original bed and on top of this something you can print good on. Ikea has a pack of 30x30cm mirrors for 13 euro which helped me, but before i had the same problems.
this video was made base on 1.60.3 version firmware, and the latest 1.60.7 version firmware guidance link is: th-cam.com/video/HBJJAPyTg-U/w-d-xo.html, please note you all, thank you.
video shows "auto leveling" OFF, and my nozzle buried itself into my print bed (almost total disaster). I turned "auto leveling" ON, and it worked fine. Why does the video show auto leveling off?
@3:54 "export the gcode format file and save it to the sdcard" there is no option in Creality Slicer 1.2.1. Created the file myself and copy/pasted in a gcode file. But what should you then do with the file while saved on the SD card? Unclear...
En el minuto 4:15 se observa como el nozzle se apoya en la cama, y la empuja hacia abajo. Pues si que se ha nivelado bien con esas instrucciones. Muy mal Creality...
C'est une super machine mais avec ce type de capteur pour l'auto leveling cela ne fonctionne pas bien, du tout ! J'ai perdu beaucoup de temps a essayer de le faire fonctionner sans succès. Depuis que j'ai une machine avec un bltouch, plus de problème......
Hello, if you encounter any problems, please feel free to contact our after-sales service and they will help you solve the problem as soon as possible. (Official service email: cs@creality.com)
Sorry.Please see this new video. th-cam.com/video/9aQ9yVj5zEU/w-d-xo.html For CR 1--10S Pro Auto leveling of 1.60.7 and 1.60.71
where is the new firmware for the cr 10s pro bltouch download now
Thank you so much. I was completely stuck with the other instructions in other videos, even from the official one from Creality. Now it is completely clear to me and it works!! IT WORKS!! I'm ready for huge projects.
The whole levelling is worthless if you don‘t have turned on your bed heater to 80°C. Think at thermal expansion and deflection in cause of heat. I first levelled with a cold bed and as my print started the nozzel scratched over my warm bed. In this case stop your print, put the printed material in your trash can and start levelling with a heated bed. It‘s funny getting warm fingers, but be sure, the pain will stop in a couple of minutes..🤪🤪🤪
Yup, this is actually the most important. I've only turned my bed heater to 60 degrees celsius when leveling, I'll try it to 80.
Great I almost got it right. Will redo tomorrow!
The manual that comes with the printer, the leveling instructions are different. I purchased my printer from Amazon who do I contact if I have questions or need technical support. Great printer the only issue I have a hard time removing the printed parts from the bed. 👍
If you have no problem about leveling, you needn't to level like that. You can use a hammer to knock the shovel gently to make the shovel into the model so that it is easy to shovel.
Make sure you let the print bed cool down all the way. I use a painters blade to get under the prints. but most of the time once the bed is cool (room temperature) it will pop off with little effort. It depends on how dirty the print bed gets. If your print bed gets too dirty (Filament from old prints) it will cause prints to stick to them stronger then normal.
if you are getting good prints but just hard to remove then you simply need to lift the nozzle a tiny bit for the first layer (you are too close) when you start a print tap the bottom right corner "adjust" button on the screen. now use the right arrow for Z Offset to raise it up a little (just like they do in this video actually) you probably do not need 0.2mm however. Just raise it 0.1mm
if the filament detaches from the bed (nozzle too high) change it to 0.05 instead. also make sure your first layer is SLOW. 15mm/s max and if you are familiar with the slicer make the first layer hotter than your normal temperature. I print PLA with 220c for the first layer than 200c (or whatever I find the plastic prefers) for the rest of the print.
slow and hot makes a big difference. use the z offset. that will make part removal a lot easier.
allow it to fully cool. a small 4" mini hammer and a "cake knife" (You can search Reptor 3d removal on amazon) $13 For the tools. Very hand.
angle down and "tap" with the hammer to get under the print once you are sure you are UNDER the print and not through it press in and DOWN "bending" the blade to flatten it against the bed and gently tap it in under the print with the hammer. once its a few inches in wiggle it side to side. you will hear the print releasing. Don't try to go all the way through. move sideways and keep wiggling and tapping around the print once you hit a critical mass point it will start to pop free. no damage to bed or printer or the print.
Fine Tune that first level. the filament should be stuck to the bed and you should be unable to displace it when you touch it gently but it should not feel super flat and smooth. it should feel like "stuck fishing line" when you get that stuck fishing line feel you got it and now you will know what to look for in the future and adjust with the z offset as needed.
3D printing is NOT hard but it is not automatic. its very hands on and DIY but once you get the tricks its quite easy most of the time and becomes second nature.
@@crealityafter-sale5706 I use a plastic hammer to tap the edge of the part using the scaper provided, both large and small parts pop right off on one light whack.
why there is auto level if i have to go thru all this steps.
My Creality CR-10S PRO that I received 2-weeks ago came with a warped build plate. I did not know this and I have been trying over and over again to level the bed to the nozzle with the manual and auto bed leveling procedures. The problem manifests in the first layer or build. I noticed first that the bead is the correct thickness in the middle of the build plate, and then as it traverses to the front or back (Y-direction) of the build plate, the bead becomes rounded and lifts off (auto level is ON). I have had no successful prints. I did use a micrometer and measured the thickness of the combined heat plate and plate as mounted. I finally found that the center thickness of these two plates is 0.6mm higher than the front and back edges of the build plate (7.12mm in the center of the Y versus 6.59mm thickness at Y=15 or 285). At the edge of the plate in the Y=155mm position I can see the warp and can physically press it down to meet the lower heating plate. I then took a straight edge across the plate front to back and it has a pronounced curvature. I noticed the level sensor will light in the center of the build plate when printing the first layer (which I expected), but then the light will go off when the nozzle traverses to the front or back of the plate (which I did not expect). The auto level parameters show the plate curvature as well.
I need a new -- flat - build plate, this printer is only 2-weeks old.
Thanks
HI Scott i had the same problems you wrote about. Change the sensor to inductive as Nexi did and it will solve your problem. Check his YT page th-cam.com/video/VH3zrRNOGfA/w-d-xo.html&t
Although i received it bend more then 0,8mm i did get a nice print when using raft, but than the first layer isnt as smooth as when you are using brim.Each end very time you start a print after you turn off the computer you must make autoleveling. Good luck.
@@MrIFat2010 I did change the sensor to the Inductive one per that youtube video - I saw and it did not help since the auto level process still did not 'see' the high point in the warp. I still had lift off of the bead at the front and back of the plate while I was nearly bottoming out and dragging the nozzle in the middle of the plate. Basically, the high point in the warped build plate, which is along the X-axis, is not picked up by the auto-level process since it is in between test rows. I will say, the inductive sensor is more responsive and more consistent than the capacitive one - I have no intention of going to a glass build plate so this is a good fix.
Since the above post I have done two things. Since the plate is bowed up in the middle, I removed the plate, stripped off the Creality build surface (which was not a very sticky surface on my machine, and then gently beat the warp point of the plate over the top of my thigh a few times while checking to see if it lessened the warp (I placed it on the bed of my table saw - a very flat surface). Although I cannot press and anneal the warped plate to remove the stresses causing the warp, I was able to remove (bend out) about one half of the warp. I then installed a Buildtak surface on the bottom side of the build plate and flipped it over on the heated bed. This way the clips pull down the now 'high' front and rear edges and I have now forced the plate into a more reasonably flat surface; still a bit high at the front and rear now, but no where near as bad as when I discovered this problem. I am now trying, again, to print the test dog. so far, the leveling print I tried just an hour ago came out very well with no layer jumps or separations.
I would still prefer if Creality sent me a new - flat - build plate.
I still have the problem that the nozzle will spit out some gobs early in the build process and these can screw up the build. I am now thinking of replacing the hot end with either an E3D V6 or a micro swiss all metal hot end.
Also, the Buildtak surface is absolutely wonderful as compared to Creality's version. The adhesion is an order of magnitude better in my opinion.
Dog test print is half way done and looks good so far - cross your fingers.
@@scottinharwood i get my cr-10s pro tmr and i am scared because your problems. But i can help you with your problems, because i had the same with the bed on my CR-10 too. The only help was to use a flat mirror and lay it on top of the original bed and on top of this something you can print good on. Ikea has a pack of 30x30cm mirrors for 13 euro which helped me, but before i had the same problems.
TIP: This video is NOT for 1.06.7 firmware version
maybe you should write for which firmware it is also!
this video was made base on 1.60.3 version firmware, and the latest 1.60.7 version firmware guidance link is: th-cam.com/video/HBJJAPyTg-U/w-d-xo.html, please note you all, thank you.
video shows "auto leveling" OFF, and my nozzle buried itself into my print bed (almost total disaster). I turned "auto leveling" ON, and it worked fine. Why does the video show auto leveling off?
In the video, it clearly says to turn it on and it shows them doing it.
@3:54 "export the gcode format file and save it to the sdcard" there is no option in Creality Slicer 1.2.1. Created the file myself and copy/pasted in a gcode file. But what should you then do with the file while saved on the SD card? Unclear...
thank you for DAMMAGING my printbed, what the f*ck is this????
100% agree put a hole in the bed and bend the entire hot end all because of a faulty bl touch. Hopefully I can get a new cr-10s pro v2
What is the slicing software you are showing? Mine came with and I use CURA.
That is Cura. You can find the start/end Gcode from the software setting.
What's the music title?
En el minuto 4:15 se observa como el nozzle se apoya en la cama, y la empuja hacia abajo. Pues si que se ha nivelado bien con esas instrucciones. Muy mal Creality...
Es verdad pero bueno luego le metes la corrección final y solucionado.
It works only with the new firmware 1.60.7 ? or it will better too with 1.60.3 ?
Good question. it is more better with 1.60.3.
@@crealityafter-sale5706 Thank you. I need to heat the bed and nozzel before this manipulation or not ?
C'est une super machine mais avec ce type de capteur pour l'auto leveling cela ne fonctionne pas bien, du tout !
J'ai perdu beaucoup de temps a essayer de le faire fonctionner sans succès.
Depuis que j'ai une machine avec un bltouch, plus de problème......
Hello, if you encounter any problems, please feel free to contact our after-sales service and they will help you solve the problem as soon as possible. (Official service email: cs@creality.com)