EXCELLENT !!! I made a waste oil heater from a 100 lb propane tank, and I surely wish I had seen your video first. My heater works really well, but I wish I had run my waste oil through the center of the pipe that supplies the outside air for combustion. I found some copper clad steel pipe and I used that for heat extractors (like your design) and they work very well. My shop measures 40' x 60' x 16' high. My heater raises the temp 20 degrees in 90 minutes, but I am going to try to find a 12' diameter ceiling fan to "stir" the air, which I think will help a lot (fingers crossed). I don't know where you live, but I'm just outside Caldwell, Idaho, and we seldom see temps lower than the teens Fahrenheit. Really liked your video! : )
Very cool. It's impressive. I love it and think you will be very happy with it. WIth a waste oil burner, it's actually a good idea not to have too much efficiency. Over 80% (I believe) and you have a condensing exchanger. This means that moisture from the air and combustion process will condense. This will cause soot to gather more quickly and for corrosion to occur quickly. It will be an easy fix, but I forsee the lower tubes eroding away due to being blasted directly my the flame. If this happens you can just patch them over from the outside and you still have lots of tubes above. The more air you add to the burn, the quicker these pipes will erode away. I've been reading a lot about oil burner combustion chamber design, and it is recommended not to have the flame come in contact with metal, when possible. Again, very impressive build, and I'm sure it will serve you well.
^ Which is why he should probably re-think welding that box together completely. That would make changing out those bottom tubes much more difficult. Speaking of reducing flame to metal contact, I’m still trying to figure out how the pros do it without any issues on things like tankless natural gas water heaters and NG furnaces? Different material? Building your own condensing 95% efficient WO furnace/boiler would be pretty cool, especially when you run out of WO and have to start buying FO.
@@codyaragon93 Natural gas is different because it is a gas. It will mix with the air and burn completely. The exchangers are designed so all combustion is completed, and the intensity of the combustion gasses are spread out over a large area. When burning oils, even diesel, even sprayed oil will form droplets, and not gasses, so the flame needs to be reflected off something to keep the heat in the flame. This allows for a more complete combustion. In oil burners this is done by using a ceramic combustion chamber. In OLD designs, you had an open box lined with firebrick or a ceramic wool liner. This takes longer to heat up, where a small chamber will heat in seconds. For a drip system like he has here, the flame hits a chamber and heats the chamber and flashes off the oil into a gas. Ideally you have a sacrificial chamber (easily replaceable) like his dish on a pedestal, and you treat it like a propane or natural gas burner. Simply design the chamber so that the flame doesn't heat any part of your exchanger red hot, and you will avoid oxidizing of the metal. If you have excess air, and red hot metal, even if it is stainless steel, it will eventually fall apart.
@ Ah, I guess that makes sense with it being red hot. Heat accelerating the oxidation process and then forcing more of the reactant gas over the surface. I figured it was more about the nitric oxide formation creating acidic condensate, but I suppose that’s more of an issue with more efficient furnaces or boilers. What about the actual burner pipe, since it’s top feed and directly in the path the flame? Does the incoming air keep it cool enough, or does that eventually get eaten through as well?
@@codyaragon93 Yeah. If you stay around 80% efficient, then you don't' have to worry about condensate, as there won't be any. If you're getting close to condensating, you can monitor the flu temp and make sure it is 180 - 200C (400F) Yes, in most cases, the pipe itself will stay pretty cool due to the air going through it and because the flames are shooting directly away from it. I have seen some designs where people try to get fancy, and they manage to get the air tube glowing, but in his setup, and mine, it will not get too hot.
Well thought out design, efficient and small foot print. I would want to monitor the oil level of the tank at a glance so a clear tube on the side of the tank with connections at the top and bottom of the tank would help with that.
This is a very impressive build. I don’t have half the skill you obviously have, but if I were you I might re-consider welding those tacks on the outer shell all the way and opt for nuts and bolts instead for maintenance/repair. If those bottom pipes burn out and need to be replaced, it’ll be much nicer to just unbolt panels for better access.
I have two questions - is the air pipe closed from below, how far does the oil pipe reach and how does the oil pass through? My second question is how many holes are there on the air pipe and what is their diameter? My burner is completely open from below and the oil pipe is 1.5 inches from the end of the air pipe, it burns well but has a high oil consumption - about 2 liters per hour. I really liked how your burner works and I want to redo mine according to your project. Thanks
Now that you have run it a couple times how is the heat coming out of the top heat pipes for heating the building im very impressed of your results im wanting to start on one next week i have some 5 by 5 and 6 by 6 sq tube 1/4” thick i can use what size of pipe did you use in the heat exchanger how many rows up to top thank you very much looks neat hope it works as good as it looks good luck with yours im going to start mine next week
@@hotshoter2 I'm still upgrading. Pretty happy so far. I tried a lot of different air tube config to have the best burn, and hottest burn. The pipes are SS 2" ornamental 1/16 wall. I have 24 total, will make a other video, with improvement I would suggest. I had to put exhaust fan on my flu, cause at - 20 without wind, I didn't have enough draft... Goes super well now.
Once you're burning clean, you shouldn't worry about anything. My small burner burned, so clean Bailey. Anything comes out of the chimney. i took the chimney apart to check it. There was nothing, but i burned blue flame
Very nice! Exceptional build! Couple key questions for me- CFS of fan? Diameter of down (air) tube and burn pot? Number and size of holes in down tube? Thanks!
nice I wood like to make a mini version I only have 1500 sq ft I had made one out of a old 20 gallon air compressor tank and its to hot runs over 800F it's to much for 1500 sq ft Cut-N-Shoot Texas doesn't get as cold HA
If you make them sell them as scrap metal not has heaters and without the oil feed they have to make that so they aren’t heaters when you get rid of them should be no liability onsite scrap metal know what i mean.
You would NEVER make a very good lawyer. Do not advise people of matters you have no knowledge of. The poster seems like a Very nice fellow. I would hate to see him sued for every thing he has worked for because of your post.@@hotshoter2
This has to be one of the best designs and not lose too much heat outside. Great job with the fan placement.
@@daviddepuy9843 wow, very appreciate. Thank
EXCELLENT !!! I made a waste oil heater from a 100 lb propane tank, and I surely wish I had seen your video first. My heater works really well, but I wish I had run my waste oil through the center of the pipe that supplies the outside air for combustion. I found some copper clad steel pipe and I used that for heat extractors (like your design) and they work very well.
My shop measures 40' x 60' x 16' high. My heater raises the temp 20 degrees in 90 minutes, but I am going to try to find a 12' diameter ceiling fan to "stir" the air, which I think will help a lot (fingers crossed).
I don't know where you live, but I'm just outside Caldwell, Idaho, and we seldom see temps lower than the teens Fahrenheit.
Really liked your video! : )
Thank you for sharing your excellent design.
Very cool. It's impressive. I love it and think you will be very happy with it.
WIth a waste oil burner, it's actually a good idea not to have too much efficiency. Over 80% (I believe) and you have a condensing exchanger. This means that moisture from the air and combustion process will condense. This will cause soot to gather more quickly and for corrosion to occur quickly.
It will be an easy fix, but I forsee the lower tubes eroding away due to being blasted directly my the flame. If this happens you can just patch them over from the outside and you still have lots of tubes above. The more air you add to the burn, the quicker these pipes will erode away. I've been reading a lot about oil burner combustion chamber design, and it is recommended not to have the flame come in contact with metal, when possible.
Again, very impressive build, and I'm sure it will serve you well.
^ Which is why he should probably re-think welding that box together completely. That would make changing out those bottom tubes much more difficult.
Speaking of reducing flame to metal contact, I’m still trying to figure out how the pros do it without any issues on things like tankless natural gas water heaters and NG furnaces? Different material? Building your own condensing 95% efficient WO furnace/boiler would be pretty cool, especially when you run out of WO and have to start buying FO.
@@codyaragon93 Natural gas is different because it is a gas. It will mix with the air and burn completely. The exchangers are designed so all combustion is completed, and the intensity of the combustion gasses are spread out over a large area.
When burning oils, even diesel, even sprayed oil will form droplets, and not gasses, so the flame needs to be reflected off something to keep the heat in the flame. This allows for a more complete combustion. In oil burners this is done by using a ceramic combustion chamber. In OLD designs, you had an open box lined with firebrick or a ceramic wool liner. This takes longer to heat up, where a small chamber will heat in seconds.
For a drip system like he has here, the flame hits a chamber and heats the chamber and flashes off the oil into a gas. Ideally you have a sacrificial chamber (easily replaceable) like his dish on a pedestal, and you treat it like a propane or natural gas burner. Simply design the chamber so that the flame doesn't heat any part of your exchanger red hot, and you will avoid oxidizing of the metal.
If you have excess air, and red hot metal, even if it is stainless steel, it will eventually fall apart.
@ Ah, I guess that makes sense with it being red hot. Heat accelerating the oxidation process and then forcing more of the reactant gas over the surface. I figured it was more about the nitric oxide formation creating acidic condensate, but I suppose that’s more of an issue with more efficient furnaces or boilers.
What about the actual burner pipe, since it’s top feed and directly in the path the flame? Does the incoming air keep it cool enough, or does that eventually get eaten through as well?
@@codyaragon93 Yeah. If you stay around 80% efficient, then you don't' have to worry about condensate, as there won't be any. If you're getting close to condensating, you can monitor the flu temp and make sure it is 180 - 200C (400F)
Yes, in most cases, the pipe itself will stay pretty cool due to the air going through it and because the flames are shooting directly away from it. I have seen some designs where people try to get fancy, and they manage to get the air tube glowing, but in his setup, and mine, it will not get too hot.
Veeeery nice job, sir !!!
Thanks sir, 👍
Dude that is awesome. Great videos brother 😊. Gives me some good ideas thanks 😊
Most impressed heater I have seen on TH-cam .. Would like to have mote details .
That's a really nice built. i was planning on doing the same thing. i gotta change my plan, lol
Great design, love to get the plans.
Well thought out design, efficient and small foot print. I would want to monitor the oil level of the tank at a glance so a clear tube on the side of the tank with connections at the top and bottom of the tank would help with that.
@@bradjohnson6322 yes, it's in my plans, thanks for watching
Great job!
This is a very impressive build. I don’t have half the skill you obviously have, but if I were you I might re-consider welding those tacks on the outer shell all the way and opt for nuts and bolts instead for maintenance/repair. If those bottom pipes burn out and need to be replaced, it’ll be much nicer to just unbolt panels for better access.
I have two questions - is the air pipe closed from below, how far does the oil pipe reach and how does the oil pass through? My second question is how many holes are there on the air pipe and what is their diameter? My burner is completely open from below and the oil pipe is 1.5 inches from the end of the air pipe, it burns well but has a high oil consumption - about 2 liters per hour. I really liked how your burner works and I want to redo mine according to your project. Thanks
Now that you have run it a couple times how is the heat coming out of the top heat pipes for heating the building im very impressed of your results im wanting to start on one next week i have some 5 by 5 and 6 by 6 sq tube 1/4” thick i can use what size of pipe did you use in the heat exchanger how many rows up to top thank you very much looks neat hope it works as good as it looks good luck with yours im going to start mine next week
@@hotshoter2 I'm still upgrading. Pretty happy so far. I tried a lot of different air tube config to have the best burn, and hottest burn. The pipes are SS 2" ornamental 1/16 wall. I have 24 total, will make a other video, with improvement I would suggest. I had to put exhaust fan on my flu, cause at - 20 without wind, I didn't have enough draft... Goes super well now.
Once you're burning clean, you shouldn't worry about anything. My small burner burned, so clean Bailey. Anything comes out of the chimney. i took the chimney apart to check it. There was nothing, but i burned blue flame
Very nice! Exceptional build! Couple key questions for me- CFS of fan? Diameter of down (air) tube and burn pot? Number and size of holes in down tube? Thanks!
@@marknienow1099 I will make a complete video on details soon
Just get a pipe and drill a load of holes in, blast air through it and it will work :)
You take blower furnace bac your système , you nice job
How much area are you heating in your shop?
@@jimfitzgibbon5492 I have 6000 feet, with 2 heat pumps in one end were the ceiling is 22 feet. The oil furnace heats half, I'd say...
This morning it's - 20 outside, and 10 inside. The heat pumps aren't made for this cold...
nice I wood like to make a mini version I only have 1500 sq ft I had made one out of a old 20 gallon air compressor tank and its to hot runs over 800F it's to much for 1500 sq ft Cut-N-Shoot Texas doesn't get as cold HA
@@tobycanales1062 I had one made a few weeks ago. Check it out..
You should make them and sell them
@@lorddeath1023 I though about it, wonder who is willing to pay what it's worth though..? Thanks!
@@ADHOCSPORT I think there would be to much liability involved to take the chance.
@jimfitzgibbon5492 exactly.. I will make units for close friends..
If you make them sell them as scrap metal not has heaters and without the oil feed they have to make that so they aren’t heaters when you get rid of them should be no liability onsite scrap metal know what i mean.
You would NEVER make a very good lawyer. Do not advise people of matters you have no knowledge of. The poster seems like a
Very nice fellow. I would hate to see him sued for every thing he has worked for because of your post.@@hotshoter2