@@frugalgunnie Yeh we got lots of sunshine here, sometimes too much..lol. I do have a small (1000 watts of panels) system and a 100AH LiFePo4 battery. I built the system myself and it's doing very well so far. I will keep upgrading till i'm off grid.
Watch a video on using a resistor before hooking power to the inverter, the capacitors will cause a spark witch could damage your cutoff switches. You could easily wire one with a momentary switch on the two lugs on the cutoff switch to the inverter.
Looks very inspirational, thank you for all the great content and also keeping the length of the videos reasonable, not like one and a half hour marathons. The switches to disconnect the solar panels might need a bit of strict rules in how to disconnect, especially when NOT TO DISCONNECT. Those kind of battery switches are usually max. 48 V, and very easily the solar voltages are way beyond 100 Volts. Correct me if I am wrong: Seems the MPPT are Helios branded, that can have max. 150 V open circuit voltage from the solar panels. Being close to that voltage and having a load through the switches might easily produce a scenario that if one tries to disconnect solar by the switch, then it won't actually disconnect, instead a high voltage DC-arc forms and it starts a quick fire from the switch, as the temperature of the arc is super high - actually that high, that the air itself becomes electrically very conductive, an accidental plasma torch can be created. To increase safety, better to disconnect solar only when the Sun is down, or to replace the PV switches with high enough DC voltage rating. Those have a special arc-extinction chamber, that allows a safe disconnect, even when the high voltage load is on. You probably already know this and are not planning too high voltages, but I wanted to give this heads up, as some of the viewers might build something similar and this definitely needs to be taken into consideration. Blessed be, keep up the good work.
Great feedback, thank you! Yes, the switches are indeed 48V rated, so I will probably have to look at replacing those for sure. An improvement opportunity. :) Sharp eye, thanks again!
Nice work Gunnie
Thank you very much, definitely a labour of love lol
Neat, tidy and clearly labelled. Well done.
Thanks, I take more care to label things for others than for myself! 🤣
Love how clearly it is labeled. Concise. What panels are hooked up to it?
They aren't yet installed , so those will be in a future video to come shortly, specs and all! Thanks for the sub! :)
Nice.
Nice solar system. Greetings from Jamaica.
Thank you, would love to set up some solar in beautiful Jamaica!!!
@@frugalgunnie Yeh we got lots of sunshine here, sometimes too much..lol. I do have a small (1000 watts of panels) system and a 100AH LiFePo4 battery. I built the system myself and it's doing very well so far. I will keep upgrading till i'm off grid.
Watch a video on using a resistor before hooking power to the inverter, the capacitors will cause a spark witch could damage your cutoff switches. You could easily wire one with a momentary switch on the two lugs on the cutoff switch to the inverter.
Here is a video of my build and I show the resistor
th-cam.com/video/WV-FsQPcuz8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YCCO_A7DoX_LMs3q
Thank you, I'll check that out!
Looks very inspirational, thank you for all the great content and also keeping the length of the videos reasonable, not like one and a half hour marathons.
The switches to disconnect the solar panels might need a bit of strict rules in how to disconnect, especially when NOT TO DISCONNECT.
Those kind of battery switches are usually max. 48 V, and very easily the solar voltages are way beyond 100 Volts. Correct me if I am wrong: Seems the MPPT are Helios branded, that can have max. 150 V open circuit voltage from the solar panels. Being close to that voltage and having a load through the switches might easily produce a scenario that if one tries to disconnect solar by the switch, then it won't actually disconnect, instead a high voltage DC-arc forms and it starts a quick fire from the switch, as the temperature of the arc is super high - actually that high, that the air itself becomes electrically very conductive, an accidental plasma torch can be created.
To increase safety, better to disconnect solar only when the Sun is down, or to replace the PV switches with high enough DC voltage rating. Those have a special arc-extinction chamber, that allows a safe disconnect, even when the high voltage load is on.
You probably already know this and are not planning too high voltages, but I wanted to give this heads up, as some of the viewers might build something similar and this definitely needs to be taken into consideration.
Blessed be, keep up the good work.
Great feedback, thank you! Yes, the switches are indeed 48V rated, so I will probably have to look at replacing those for sure. An improvement opportunity. :) Sharp eye, thanks again!