Guys . Do not make this glue with Limstone powder . This video was a test run . the glue only works well if it never gets over 800 F the lime turns into calcium oxide if it does and a volume change takes place as it adsorbs water . Use fine clay powder or aluminum oxide with some silica sand . People have reported that Mud works very well but i suspect the temp limit to the dirt clay is low . Calcined kaolin is the best material to mix with other clays to stop the crazing or cracking as tis called . I apologize for any unsuccessful testing that may have bin done . The binder in this video is a very valuable mixture that can act as a great refractory binder
People have mentioned trying experiments with: Aluminum Oxide, Perlite, KaoWool, and others. I also thought of adding to the list Bentonite Clay, powdered or granulated carbide, or even a commercially available high temperature refractory compound like Cement Carborundum Mortar. Also graphite powder is a high temperature additive in some high heat applications. Most high temperature mortars are the silica-aluminate type and they may be interesting as additives as well. I think you're onto something with your lime/water glass based mixtures and look forward to more videos.
Such interesting stuff. This glue is very impressive. I can see many applications in blacksmithing and knife making. Just thinking/wondering what a mix of the glue and perlite would perform like. may help bulk it out as a refactory cement.
you can also make Aluminium Oxide yourself and add it to the mix. a lot of handy videos out there on how to make that stuff, did it a few times myself, pretty easy. i would recommend you to keep all pieces of scrap Aluminium you have and convert them do the oxide so that you will basically have an endless supply.
At how much aluminium oxide costs and how common it is,that would be like making yourself water from oxygen and hydrogen because you seen somme crazy on youtube doing it.
Hi, Thanks for all your videos and this particular one. I followed it all the way through! Very interesting. I will be trying lime with silicate as it is one combination that I have not yet tried. (I have some garden lime leftover from an attempt to make refractory cement, that was a failure.) You may find that for an extra hot-face coating on a furnace, a thin coating might work best. I use a similar silicate coating made with talcum powder, aluminium oxide and iron oxide (Just for a dark colour). I paint it on as multiple thin layers onto stainless steel to give it more protection when burning charcoal within tiny forced-air stoves. The thin coating works best as it seems to be able to expand and contract with the heat expansion and contraction of the SS which is very considerable. It works as an expanding crack filler by itself. It also makes a wonderful expanding refractory when painted thinly on aluminium cooking foil and stuffed into a hole. It gets hot, fumes, expands, oozes and bubbles off hydrogen gas and cures itself. It can be hurried along with a flame, so you should be in your element! I too have had no success with sand silicate refractories. They fail badly on subsequent heating or just with the lapse of time (very good for casting cores). Pure aluminium oxide mixed with a little silicate makes a rock tough refractory as does the garnet waste grits from the sump of a water jet cutting machine. I don't have a hydrogen flame to test them, but they just laugh at repeated cycles of the hottest temperature that I can produce when they are heated in a thick bed of charcoal in a forced-air furnace or forge (Way above the max temp of 1300C K-type thermocouple. A similar dirt cheap silicate refractory can be made with subsoil from my farm and a nearby park (loamy clay free soil from post hole digging or crab hole mounds if you are feeling lazy). I mix perlite or vermiculite with this post hole soil and silicate to make a lightweight insulating furnace refractory with excellent insulation (way over 1300C on inside and harmlessly warm to touch on the outside). Its remaining weakness is that the vermiculite (or perlite) starts to melt (turn to glass) somewhere above 2200F (~1200C). That is where I would like to try your lime silicate as a more refractory coating to prevent this melting. Here is a video of the furnace: th-cam.com/video/PIDgGCa4iUM/w-d-xo.html You or your followers may be interested in more details of my exploration of a long list of silicate refractories on my website: timtinker.com/diy-refractory/ or my DIY furnace made with silicate timtinker.com/diy-wood-charcoal-furnace/ Thanks for sharing your ideas and I will add lime to my silicate refractory list. Tim
@Tim Telemark, Howdy. I have seen your website on refractory experimentation. Extremely informative! You had poor results on your lime/sodium silicate preparation. You said it crumbled and even tried the different recipe of sodium silicate from Nurd Rage. In this video Nobox7 is using garden lime which is crushed limestone or calcium carbonate which has not been calcined. If I am not mistaken, you were using calcium hydrate which is calcium oxide slaked with water. The garden lime is not calcined into calcium oxide. Also, the slaked, or hydrated lime often contains some magnesium. The different type of lime could have caused your crumbling issues. Blessings.
@@revscott58 Hi, Thanks for your constructive comments and your interest in my refractory post. Sorry for the delay in replying as I have been away on an extended fishing trip. As I understand garden lime is mostly calcium carbonate and that was what Nobox7 suggested. Are you suggesting that I use calcium oxide or should it be calcium hydroxide? Kind regards.
@@timtelemark907 Sorry Tim, I just now have seen your response and question. I think there are 2 different products sold as garden lime. One is calcium carbonate, and the other is called dolomitic lime which also contains magnesium with the calcium carbonate. I think either of these should work because it is probably the carbonate which cures the sodium silicate.
Tim, I do not know which type of garden lime Nobox7 used. I don't think calcium hydroxide will work. It is not garden lime. I went back to your website to review your attempt at making this and you had used calcium hydroxide. That is not garden lime, it is builders lime for making plasters and stuccos and is probably why your mix failed. Blessings.
Thanks a million for the comments , you guys make these videos more valuable than the footage i present . This video was a fail after later testing . This was the first test on this material . I hope people see your comment for advice
I'd test for moisture resistance after firing. The limelight was using quicklime, which results from heating lime until it loses CO2 (check wikipedia for limelight). Unfortunately, quickline will absorb water and get to slacked lime which is not a good binder. Granted, the presence of the silicate in the stuff may divert from part of the lime-quicklime-slacklime reaction path, but the content of silica is too low to bind the entire calcium. If the material crumbles after fired and then absorbing water from air, it can still be useful when you don't mind reapplying the protective coating (i.e. "painting" a crucible) even if it wouldn't be necessary suited for long term without refreshing it.
That's an awesome accidental discovery Bob! Thank you for sharing that with us. Definitely you should consider selling it, it looks very useful and superior to many refractory materials. Other high temperature resistant materials I've seen and used for a carbon arc furnace and pretty much all of them were very brittle, you could look towards those avenues, but your material seems far superior. I've also seen those "Starlite" type materials popularized by *NightHawkInLight* and others on TH-cam but those actually puff up and burn as a carbon foam on their surface. I look forward to your experiments, from all my reading and observations you are at the very top end of materials that resist heat yet retain strength. Carbon-Carbon as it's known in the high speed military aircraft industry is the only thing superior as far as strength, but it might have lower temperature resistance than even your material. I've been wanting to melt this Niobium metal I have for years so if you do end up selling it I will be one of your first customers. Thanks for all your information and excellent videos.
It might be interesting to add calcined kaolin clay and diatomaceous earth to your mixture to stiffen it, adding those two things would make a geopolymer. Be careful with diatomaceous earth dust ie a respirator is needed when handling it.
I have mixed aluminium powder in with refractory cement and the caustic in the cement causes the aluminium powder to react and make hydrogen gas and make the cement aerated. The problem is it’s an exo ther mic reaction which dries the cement quicker than desirable and weakens it
Your coating on homemade refractory brick: Could it be used to make a foundry that can melt scrap iron, in addition to copper, tin, brass, bronze, aluminum, and zinc?
I've goofed around with some refractory-making ingredients that you may find of use. Primarily I was interested in making my own graphite, which was completely successful, though two of the experimental refrac materials were also a win. At the temperatures I'm pushing it acts more as an ablative material, but if you were going to cast iron or something a bit less intense, It should hold up just fine. For a hint, look into how roman concrete was made, it'll provide a lot of insight for your projecting mix. You've got most of the mix already, just missing one ingredient which, unless you live next to a volcano, is a bit hard to find. I'm trying lava rock which is hit and miss, but if you can find pumice for a good price, it works too. I ran out of traditional methods where I could get extreme heat to break it down (over 6000*F), so I ended up getting a plasma cutter to really see where it can go.
I'm using lava rock, water, a steel pot and a heat source to store heat for my home. When summer comes I want to see what sort of temperatures I get. I'll apply that heat elsewhere for power production
EDIT: It's not necessarily CSH, Did you add water? If yes, you've made CSH, basically regular cement, so probably not CSH. But if you only add waterglass, then you probably made calcium silicate. Wikipedia said Calcium silicate has a melting point of 2400 kelvin, which explains why it can withstand oxyhydrogen torch. The torch has a burning temperature in that range, which can be higher or lower depending on the nozzle. It is quite solid, with reported strength of 10 MPa, 1400 psi. If you don't mind testing, make a "geopolymer". It also uses waterglass, but instead of the garden lime, it uses heated kaolin clay. You can buy kaolin clay and heat it to 1400 degrees F, or buy "calcined kaolin" directly. It should be stronger and have a smoother finish than the material you made. Depending on your mix, it can be set anywhere between an hour to a day. Also, you kinda have to mix with a mixer, because it's very viscous and it would be very tedious if you hand mix it. But geopolymer can only withstand about 1200 kelvin, which is half of your material. If you decide to make a structural component that is heat resistant, you may choose geopolymer as its strength is about 2000 - 7000 psi, but if you only need insulation, this is a great material. Thanks for sharing!
Nice, TY for sharing. So it's pure liquid water glass and calcium oxide? What percentage? I'm guessing that liquid water glass is just water and sodium silicate?
You got some interesting videos, and a cool ebay store Just to note- 200grams of water is equal to 200ml of water, which also takes up a volume of 200cubic centimeters or 2cm x 10cm x 10cm =) i.e 1kg of water=1liter=1000cubic centimeters/10x10x10cm cube
As for advice i reccomend Zircopax plus somme bentonite. Or alumina with bentonite like 5-15%. But it will take a lot to dry depending on how much bentonite you add. I would also add 1% by weight toilet paper fibers to the mix. Zircon( zircopax) its more refractory than alumina,much more heavier thogh and a few times more expensive. You can buy these materials at ceramic shops ,like pottery shops.
Hey bob, I have an idea, take your hardest refractory available, as probably is this stuff, and cast a pedestal with 4 to six upqard pointing feet, if you will, so the crucible you put in a foundry is resting on a few points with enough space for decent circulation between said feet. The floor of the foundry could be carved out to bury the support disc underneath.
Hi Again, Looking at your great video a second time. Is that broken glass tube fused silica glass? Is it softening in the hydrogen flame? If so, I think that the lime/silicate refractory is surviving at about 2,000C (3,632F). Do you think it is that hot? Tim
I think you got it. The expansion and retraction of the metal will weaken the bond. The concrete though holds it well even after heating and cooling... good job and many thanks.
There is a product called 'Heat Fence" it came in a 12 or 16 oz jar, it was a pure white 'putty' . It remained pliable and reduced the propagation of heat past the barrier of the material, so once the heating was done, the material could be put back into the jar. I like the adhesive characteristics of what is demonstrated here. A material to stiffen or reinforce it might be a glass fiber, carbon fiber, or a product called 'Thermo Felt' from J Tillman co. Great to see some real science going on.
Watching this I am wondering if vermiculite (puffed mica) would work as a way to bulk up the mixture plus stiffening it somewhat. Addition of the mica may limit how thin you can spread it but it may make it more structurally sound. If it was warmer in the shop I would go out and try it myself...will have to wait for spring now.
if you want something add to the mixture, common sense tells me first choice to try would be material that makes cruisble and torch tip. say aluminum oxide? those purple stuff that makes your tig torch tip. you can get them from any old aluminum casting, or those "white fire bricks", that's pretty easy to find and smash to power. be safe, pal.👍
Interesting, the lime should give off CO2 when heated, like Starlite, which will react with the waterglass. Too bad you didn't weigh a sample pre and post burn. If you want stiffness, just put some stainless steel shavings in the mix. This stuff seems pretty cheap, so it could do as an outside liner of a furnace where weight isn't an issue, since the lime is sensitive to acid.
great stuff I also will use my old sand blasting material and there's always a maintenance on my forges all take the old stuff that crumbles of and break it up and mix it into the mix and it last a long time . I been playing refectory for awhile. and feel I got it down I definitely keep it basic I keep it stupid simple
You should revisit this idea and add PDMS to your mixture. Silanes/siloxanes will decompose when exposed to high enough temperatures. When this thermal decomposition happens, since the polymer is made up of mostly carbon and silicon, what forms is silicon carbide nanofibers. I think it could provide a better structure to it. Carbon nanotubes could also do the same thing and they're aren't too difficult to make low quality nanotubes. Just strike an arc between two graphite electrodes submerged in distilled water.
I'm very interested in what you've said! What search terms can I use to learn more about this sorta stuff, or how'd you learn about it? Does this mean than if I heat common silicone caulk in a kiln, I'll get SiC? (And also apparently formaldehyde! 😵)
@Nathan Martinez look into "preceramic polymers" or "polymer derived ceramics" Do a scholar search with that phrase, there is a lot of literature written on the subject by materials scientists. It's actually possible to create 3d printed objects using "PDC's" and these objects can be baked in a kiln to yield ceramics. But that research is currently in its infancy. Get familiar with scihub if you aren't already, it will give you access to any scientific articles you may not have access to.
@@toxomanrod yes, silicones can be fired to turn into silicon carbide, but I think you may have to mix it with some graphite powder. I read a paper that describes doing just that. I do all my learning by searching terms in scholar (youtube won't let me use the "G" word) and then pirating the academic papers that I find in my searches.
@@franklingomez5311 wow this stuff is awesome! Wiki page isn't very long, which to me means there's still much to experiment! Looks like the process requires a reducing atmosphere, or as you've mentioned adding graphite so the excess carbon will react with oxygen. I've yet to find a good cheap source for bulk graphite powder for experimenting, you wouldn't happen to know of any?
@Nathan Martinez you really don't want to use wiki for your research, especially with a subject like this. Get yorself familiar with Ggle's "scholar search" and "scihub". It's not complicated by any means and it gives you access to known good data. It's also not limited to any subject, you can do research on literally anything that comes to your mind.
I’d be interested to see what you could do incorporating equal parts vermiculite clay(cheap kitty litter) and prebaked and ground clay ie ceramic like tiles pottery or simply the fired clay as a powder, I feel like it would make a foundary liner like play dough, if you add something fibrous as well that should help prevent cracking working like a binder? If you give this mix a go keen to see the outcome!!
Its a no go my friend , it has great one time use ablation shield purposes but after that the moisture reacts with the calcium oxide created in the intense heat to make a hydroxide when cool , this as you no is deliquescent
I'm so glad you've shared your results! Have you experimented with using this "glue" as a cement to hold silica sand together, as you did with the sodium silicate cores? I'm not quite sure I've heard you mention this during the video... Seems like it could make a good bulk refractory. (If kept dry, judging by the comments.)
I read a paper recently where they found they could convert silica gel into waterglass by cooking it in lye north of 200C (maybe lower) its neat to see this can be done at the lower temp you use, many thanks. I recently bought this tiny woodstove and the walls are thinner than expected so i'm looking around for something to coat the interior of it to help it stand up better to high temps, might try this mix of yours unless maybe somebody has a better suggestion New to this, to anyone reading this is there a mix similar to this that'll yield a porous ceramic material similar to pumice? Wanting to make cape cod kerosene matches, they sound neat. Also, I'm sure you're set up quite well for ventilation with your type of work, is it possible you've got a plugged filter in your ventilation system or maybe need more of it? You almost sound like you've inhaled too many fumes in this. I dont want to sound rude, its subtle, i notice in the vast majority of videos of people using fire in some way you can notice the mental effect it has on them. God some of the soldering videos I could swear the guys pickled their brains with all the lead fumes.
I do not recommend this composition friend . Check my other videos , this was just a test and this stuff works great but its hydroscopic and converts to calcium hydroxide that expands 75%
@@NOBOX7 THANK You for your highly unique and effective pursuits and testings. It's hard not to be less interested in your side comments and background projects. I am looking to build a rocket masonry oven+stove, bought plans from walkerstoves, which have scaled drawings for either stacked firebrick or for ceramic refractory board. On a tiny budget, I am always searching for DIY alternatives that hold up slightly better than firebrick and are considerably cheaper than the refractory boards. Seems like perlite and pre-mixed refractory mortar 1:1 is best for coating but not strong enough when molded into half-bricks, about the same price overall when figuring labor I look forward to using my collected WVO in one of your burner models, should i be so bold as to attempt.
I'm a little confused. When I looked up garden lime, most sources said that it was calcium carbonate (essentially chalk), but you list calcium oxide in the description. Then there is quicklime/slaked lime/hydrated lime etc which is calcium hydroxide. So is it calcium hydroxide, or calcium carbonate? Thank you for considering.
I would measure your refractory glue for temperature expansion and contraction, anyting I added would be to get that number closer to whatever your painting it on. expanding and contracting A different race is probably what's making it come loose from the metal. As far as the water glass sand cores, I was told they fall apart at high temperature so that when the metal shrinks as it cools it breaks the sand rather than itself. they are intentionally designed to do that to work correctly inside a green sand mold. You also want to be able to remove that core when you're done casting the metal so it helps if it falls apart on its own
Have a look at the Geopolymer institute the work of prof Davidovits he popularised concrete & other mineral based polymers made from metakaolin clay waterglass+ blast furnace slag fly ash or red mud,vermiculite or perlite can also be mixed in Im looking for a version of this that can be used instead of epoxy resin like the one being used in high end vehicle & aerospace.The chemical bonds are primarily silicon oxygen Aluminium so Alumino Silicate.
Sorry if I missed it, but............if you were making a castable refactory mix (not the glue) your mix would be "what?" with waterglass. ratio's? Excellent on your glue. Basically I am talking a casting for a rocket stove, so wood placed every day, with temps in the 2000 degree range, then cooled down.Daily maybe the problem, year after year.
I would try to make it more porous.. atm it more is like a "liner" something to smear on firebricks to make em last longer.. but if you wanna make a brick out of it.. it should be more pourous. :)
I like this vidio- that might work good for a burn tube for my wood powered truck- I like that strength test- though ceramic blanket is lighter, if coated with pure water glass- though that stuff looks excellent if you can combine some insulative properties to the mix- as long as its stronger than ceramic blanket,it would work for part of the burn tube , in a wood powered truck, there were over 1 million vehicles powered by wood during several war time frames due too gasoline shortages.
How does it work with cast metals? We all know how hard it is to weld and though JB weld works ok. In high heat like exhaust manifolds its lacking at time. I can see using a coarse steel wool to aid in vibration strength. On any cast automotive part. Even holes in mufflers. No down time taking it off and having the manifold welded that isnt always a fix as these welds can be hit or miss. We all know that medical cast like crap muffler wrap sucks as well.If its sandable and paintable then the use in the automovtive repair field will be great.
When I worked for Pillar Industries we made huge industrial induction heat treating/parts handling robotic systems. The main units utilized in the foundries were for smelting and creating various molten steel and aluminum blends to pour into sand molds. Refractory coatings were utilized to reflect heat inward and insure a proper barrier between the molten metal and the inductive coils buried in the Refractory that was used to melt the metals.
@Nobox7 Nurd rage video shows 2 recipes for sodium silicate. 1st, 60g sodium hydroxide, 80g silica gel, 100g water. 2nd, 30-40g sodium hydroxide, 60g silica gel, 100g water. You were showing 200 water written on your cores. Very interesting refractory you have made though. Does it last? Does it absorb moisture from the air?
@@NOBOX7 So you did the recipe like you said with the 200g water and it keeps? Nurd rage did add a little extra water to his first mix. And did your refractory last or crumble?
I make my own sodium silicate, and I have some Hyrdrated Lime I bought at Home Depot. Mixed it as you describe and just 700f turns it into a weak crumbly material. As far as I know the Hydrated Lime they sell at Home Depot is the same as Agricultural lime you are using?
@@NOBOX7 So no matter what type of lime you use it will crumble with time? This one crumbled right away. Are your pieces holding up still? Or are they crumbling? Thank you
@@timhain8263 Howdy Tim. I have made a similar comment about the difference on Tim Telemarks comment. He too had used calcium hydroxide. It doesn't work.
Will you give us the recipe that you made the glue out of? What kind of waterglass lime did you use and what kind of garden lime?also amounts please I dont want to waste money not getting it right 2 different kinds of lime and most reasonable on amazon is 15 bucks a piece and they are the cheapest. But will the give me the same results? I dont want to buy them and find out later that I needed to buy a different kind. Id rather buy the more expensive and have your product when done.thanks for this video. I have cracks in my firebrck forge that I plan on using your glue on. Thank you
@ NOBOX7 I have watched this video and your one about best sodium silicate proportions. You have had some of the recipes harden in the jar when storing, sometimes overnight. Something to think about this. Sodium hydroxide after opening the container easily absorbs carbon dioxide. Carbon dioxide cures sodium silicate. So if you make the sodium silicate solution with sodium hydroxide which already has carbon dioxide in it, that could be curing in the jar when storing. The sodium hydroxide used must be a freshly opened new jar. Just think that is possible. I wonder if heating the already opened sodium hydroxide could make sure there is not carbon dioxide in it? Blessings
Firebrick isint supposed to be dence the best fire bricks are super lightweight and "fluffy" feeling they dont just withstand the mass ammount of heat they allso insulate it could try adding somthing like vermiculite( melting point around 2400°F) or perlite (melting point around 2300°F) to both reduce weight aswell as add insulating properties in the production of ur own bricks
I wish I could find conclusive information of the melting point of wood ash, but charcoal gravel of a similar consistency will produce the same results if not better.
I'm calling BS on this! I have tried several different times, varying the waterglass / lime ratios AND 3 types of lime - hydrated lime, dolomite lime, and plain lawn lime. Nothing even came close to what is shown in this video. Nothing hardened - it was just a sticky mess. Save yourself some time and try something else!
@@NOBOX7 As far as water goes, I don't think so - I tried a couple of passes with the waterglass so thick it was difficult to work with. And what hydroxide? The video includes lime and waterglass - there is no mention of a hydroxide, in fact the title says "Calcium Oxide refractory Glue 4,000 Deg F working temp"
Homemade water glass and perlite is what I made my forge out of. Of course it has its limitations. That and I was dealing with a back injury when I made it. 5 lumbar surgeries, 3 lumbar fusions later, and I'm back at it. I can't wait to build my next one. Paint can forge was the first. The rest became rocket stoves. I can't wait to get another mig welder. Built 2 wood gasification systems, rocket stoves, and a kiln with the last welder. Son in law left it in the rain. I guess it's lucky for him I as a disabled vet didn't just squash his head lol. Now I am left using JB Weld. But I guarantee I'll engineer a whole new system.
Dude I wish I thought of this sooner, but every advantage perlite has is easily available with the same consistency of charcoal gravel. Either it remains unburnt, or becomes further insulative as a fine lattice of fluffy ash in the cavity it is trapped in.
Guys . Do not make this glue with Limstone powder . This video was a test run . the glue only works well if it never gets over 800 F
the lime turns into calcium oxide if it does and a volume change takes place as it adsorbs water . Use fine clay powder or aluminum oxide with some silica sand . People have reported that Mud works very well but i suspect the temp limit to the dirt clay is low . Calcined kaolin is the best material to mix with other clays to stop the crazing or cracking as tis called . I apologize for any unsuccessful testing that may have bin done . The binder in this video is a very valuable mixture that can act as a great refractory binder
Hi I want to make lost wax dipping mortar for casting
Now these are the videos that're worth my time
People have mentioned trying experiments with: Aluminum Oxide, Perlite, KaoWool, and others. I also thought of adding to the list Bentonite Clay, powdered or granulated carbide, or even a commercially available high temperature refractory compound like Cement Carborundum Mortar. Also graphite powder is a high temperature additive in some high heat applications. Most high temperature mortars are the silica-aluminate type and they may be interesting as additives as well. I think you're onto something with your lime/water glass based mixtures and look forward to more videos.
silica-aluminates a mcdonalds salt i.e. dixie crystal salt
Zircon oxide plus bentonite beats them all.
Every time I'm looking for something your videos come up. Awesome stuff. Thanks a ton
It happens to me to LOL ill be looking for some Arcane topic and bam there i am
I think this is very interesting! TY for sharing!
I want to coat a rocket Mass Heater with it.
Amazing. Well done and thank you for the knowledge. It's valuable. Cheers J
Such interesting stuff. This glue is very impressive. I can see many applications in blacksmithing and knife making.
Just thinking/wondering what a mix of the glue and perlite would perform like. may help bulk it out as a refactory cement.
yes it would coat blades very well , its super sticky
you can also make Aluminium Oxide yourself and add it to the mix.
a lot of handy videos out there on how to make that stuff, did it a few times myself, pretty easy. i would recommend you to keep all pieces of scrap Aluminium you have and convert them do the oxide so that you will basically have an endless supply.
At how much aluminium oxide costs and how common it is,that would be like making yourself water from oxygen and hydrogen because you seen somme crazy on youtube doing it.
Hi, Thanks for all your videos and this particular one. I followed it all the way through! Very interesting. I will be trying lime with silicate as it is one combination that I have not yet tried. (I have some garden lime leftover from an attempt to make refractory cement, that was a failure.) You may find that for an extra hot-face coating on a furnace, a thin coating might work best. I use a similar silicate coating made with talcum powder, aluminium oxide and iron oxide (Just for a dark colour). I paint it on as multiple thin layers onto stainless steel to give it more protection when burning charcoal within tiny forced-air stoves. The thin coating works best as it seems to be able to expand and contract with the heat expansion and contraction of the SS which is very considerable. It works as an expanding crack filler by itself. It also makes a wonderful expanding refractory when painted thinly on aluminium cooking foil and stuffed into a hole. It gets hot, fumes, expands, oozes and bubbles off hydrogen gas and cures itself. It can be hurried along with a flame, so you should be in your element!
I too have had no success with sand silicate refractories. They fail badly on subsequent heating or just with the lapse of time (very good for casting cores).
Pure aluminium oxide mixed with a little silicate makes a rock tough refractory as does the garnet waste grits from the sump of a water jet cutting machine. I don't have a hydrogen flame to test them, but they just laugh at repeated cycles of the hottest temperature that I can produce when they are heated in a thick bed of charcoal in a forced-air furnace or forge (Way above the max temp of 1300C K-type thermocouple. A similar dirt cheap silicate refractory can be made with subsoil from my farm and a nearby park (loamy clay free soil from post hole digging or crab hole mounds if you are feeling lazy).
I mix perlite or vermiculite with this post hole soil and silicate to make a lightweight insulating furnace refractory with excellent insulation (way over 1300C on inside and harmlessly warm to touch on the outside). Its remaining weakness is that the vermiculite (or perlite) starts to melt (turn to glass) somewhere above 2200F (~1200C). That is where I would like to try your lime silicate as a more refractory coating to prevent this melting. Here is a video of the furnace:
th-cam.com/video/PIDgGCa4iUM/w-d-xo.html
You or your followers may be interested in more details of my exploration of a long list of silicate refractories on my website:
timtinker.com/diy-refractory/
or my DIY furnace made with silicate
timtinker.com/diy-wood-charcoal-furnace/
Thanks for sharing your ideas and I will add lime to my silicate refractory list.
Tim
@Tim Telemark, Howdy. I have seen your website on refractory experimentation. Extremely informative! You had poor results on your lime/sodium silicate preparation. You said it crumbled and even tried the different recipe of sodium silicate from Nurd Rage. In this video Nobox7 is using garden lime which is crushed limestone or calcium carbonate which has not been calcined. If I am not mistaken, you were using calcium hydrate which is calcium oxide slaked with water. The garden lime is not calcined into calcium oxide. Also, the slaked, or hydrated lime often contains some magnesium. The different type of lime could have caused your crumbling issues. Blessings.
@@revscott58
Hi, Thanks for your constructive comments and your interest in my refractory post. Sorry for the delay in replying as I have been away on an extended fishing trip. As I understand garden lime is mostly calcium carbonate and that was what Nobox7 suggested. Are you suggesting that I use calcium oxide or should it be calcium hydroxide? Kind regards.
@@timtelemark907 Sorry Tim, I just now have seen your response and question. I think there are 2 different products sold as garden lime. One is calcium carbonate, and the other is called dolomitic lime which also contains magnesium with the calcium carbonate. I think either of these should work because it is probably the carbonate which cures the sodium silicate.
Tim, I do not know which type of garden lime Nobox7 used. I don't think calcium hydroxide will work. It is not garden lime.
I went back to your website to review your attempt at making this and you had used calcium hydroxide. That is not garden lime, it is builders lime for making plasters and stuccos and is probably why your mix failed.
Blessings.
Thanks a million for the comments , you guys make these videos more valuable than the footage i present . This video was a fail after later testing . This was the first test on this material . I hope people see your comment for advice
I'd test for moisture resistance after firing. The limelight was using quicklime, which results from heating lime until it loses CO2 (check wikipedia for limelight). Unfortunately, quickline will absorb water and get to slacked lime which is not a good binder. Granted, the presence of the silicate in the stuff may divert from part of the lime-quicklime-slacklime reaction path, but the content of silica is too low to bind the entire calcium.
If the material crumbles after fired and then absorbing water from air, it can still be useful when you don't mind reapplying the protective coating (i.e. "painting" a crucible) even if it wouldn't be necessary suited for long term without refreshing it.
Yes i discoverd ths issue and you are correct , the water expands the material 75% and it all falls apart
That's an awesome accidental discovery Bob! Thank you for sharing that with us. Definitely you should consider selling it, it looks very useful and superior to many refractory materials. Other high temperature resistant materials I've seen and used for a carbon arc furnace and pretty much all of them were very brittle, you could look towards those avenues, but your material seems far superior. I've also seen those "Starlite" type materials popularized by *NightHawkInLight* and others on TH-cam but those actually puff up and burn as a carbon foam on their surface. I look forward to your experiments, from all my reading and observations you are at the very top end of materials that resist heat yet retain strength. Carbon-Carbon as it's known in the high speed military aircraft industry is the only thing superior as far as strength, but it might have lower temperature resistance than even your material. I've been wanting to melt this Niobium metal I have for years so if you do end up selling it I will be one of your first customers. Thanks for all your information and excellent videos.
Yes Sir!!!
*THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
been real busy lately cant believe iv b on missing out on these
Does it matter if it is dolomitic or calcitic lime?
It might be interesting to add calcined kaolin clay and diatomaceous earth to your mixture to stiffen it, adding those two things would make a geopolymer. Be careful with diatomaceous earth dust ie a respirator is needed when handling it.
Yep your the man brother , thats great stuff to stop the cracking . Im no longer using garden lime after learning the chemistry .
try silica gel or add aluminum foil and make alumina silicate i think aaluma is used in other areas of refractory
I have mixed aluminium powder in with refractory cement and the caustic in the cement causes the aluminium powder to react and make hydrogen gas and make the cement aerated. The problem is it’s an exo ther mic reaction which dries the cement quicker than desirable and weakens it
Your coating on homemade refractory brick: Could it be used to make a foundry that can melt scrap iron, in addition to copper, tin, brass, bronze, aluminum, and zinc?
yes
wow bro, nice stuff... looks good, gonna have to try some of that.
I've goofed around with some refractory-making ingredients that you may find of use. Primarily I was interested in making my own graphite, which was completely successful, though two of the experimental refrac materials were also a win. At the temperatures I'm pushing it acts more as an ablative material, but if you were going to cast iron or something a bit less intense, It should hold up just fine.
For a hint, look into how roman concrete was made, it'll provide a lot of insight for your projecting mix. You've got most of the mix already, just missing one ingredient which, unless you live next to a volcano, is a bit hard to find. I'm trying lava rock which is hit and miss, but if you can find pumice for a good price, it works too.
I ran out of traditional methods where I could get extreme heat to break it down (over 6000*F), so I ended up getting a plasma cutter to really see where it can go.
I'm using lava rock, water, a steel pot and a heat source to store heat for my home. When summer comes I want to see what sort of temperatures I get. I'll apply that heat elsewhere for power production
EDIT: It's not necessarily CSH,
Did you add water? If yes, you've made CSH, basically regular cement, so probably not CSH.
But if you only add waterglass, then you probably made calcium silicate. Wikipedia said Calcium silicate has a melting point of 2400 kelvin, which explains why it can withstand oxyhydrogen torch. The torch has a burning temperature in that range, which can be higher or lower depending on the nozzle. It is quite solid, with reported strength of 10 MPa, 1400 psi.
If you don't mind testing, make a "geopolymer". It also uses waterglass, but instead of the garden lime, it uses heated kaolin clay. You can buy kaolin clay and heat it to 1400 degrees F, or buy "calcined kaolin" directly. It should be stronger and have a smoother finish than the material you made. Depending on your mix, it can be set anywhere between an hour to a day. Also, you kinda have to mix with a mixer, because it's very viscous and it would be very tedious if you hand mix it.
But geopolymer can only withstand about 1200 kelvin, which is half of your material. If you decide to make a structural component that is heat resistant, you may choose geopolymer as its strength is about 2000 - 7000 psi, but if you only need insulation, this is a great material. Thanks for sharing!
Great input friend , i only added water glass to the garden lime
The ratios in the recipe given gives ~4 times the water needed for water glass.
Nice, TY for sharing. So it's pure liquid water glass and calcium oxide? What percentage? I'm guessing that liquid water glass is just water and sodium silicate?
You got some interesting videos, and a cool ebay store
Just to note- 200grams of water is equal to 200ml of water, which also takes up a volume of 200cubic centimeters or 2cm x 10cm x 10cm =)
i.e 1kg of water=1liter=1000cubic centimeters/10x10x10cm cube
Oh thanks , did i make a mistake ? i do that on occasion for some reason . Yes you are correct .
Genius!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences very appreciated it here 👍👍
great video, do you think it would suit gluing insulating fire bricks in a rocket heater riser. Thanks
No my friend unfortunately it changes chemically after heating then after it turns into the hydroxide it takes on water and expands 75%
How good is this for insolation
As for advice i reccomend Zircopax plus somme bentonite.
Or alumina with bentonite like 5-15%.
But it will take a lot to dry depending on how much bentonite you add.
I would also add 1% by weight toilet paper fibers to the mix.
Zircon( zircopax) its more refractory than alumina,much more heavier thogh and a few times more expensive.
You can buy these materials at ceramic shops ,like pottery shops.
Your are absolutly correct the garden lime is a very poor choice
Any pointers on making homemade firebricks. Bought a pellet stove and the firebrick is missing. Replacements are spendy!
Est ce que je peu l'utiliser pour faire une dalle réfractaire pour un four thanks for all, you are a gentleman
do you have a material breakdown and the correct mixing amounts to make the glue compound.
Not sure if I missed it but what's the proportion of water glass and lime ?
What's the ratio of waterglass to garden lime? I think this stuff would be great for my experimental forge.
Add some titanium dioxide or tungsten oxide to the mix. My forge i coated with water glass and titanium dioxide
Great idea!
Hey bob, I have an idea,
take your hardest refractory available, as probably is this stuff, and cast a pedestal with 4 to six upqard pointing feet, if you will, so the crucible you put in a foundry is resting on a few points with enough space for decent circulation between said feet. The floor of the foundry could be carved out to bury the support disc underneath.
Whats the trick with curing it? Ive made water glass few times this last time with the garden lime and still cant get it to harded
Hi Again, Looking at your great video a second time. Is that broken glass tube fused silica glass? Is it softening in the hydrogen flame? If so, I think that the lime/silicate refractory is surviving at about 2,000C (3,632F). Do you think it is that hot? Tim
He points out that it's quartz ❤
I think you got it. The expansion and retraction of the metal will weaken the bond. The concrete though holds it well even after heating and cooling... good job and many thanks.
There is a product called 'Heat Fence" it came in a 12 or 16 oz jar, it was a pure white 'putty' . It remained pliable and reduced the propagation of heat past the barrier of the material, so once the heating was done, the material could be put back into the jar. I like the adhesive characteristics of what is demonstrated here. A material to stiffen or reinforce it might be a glass fiber, carbon fiber, or a product called 'Thermo Felt' from J Tillman co. Great to see some real science going on.
Watching this I am wondering if vermiculite (puffed mica) would work as a way to bulk up the mixture plus stiffening it somewhat. Addition of the mica may limit how thin you can spread it but it may make it more structurally sound.
If it was warmer in the shop I would go out and try it myself...will have to wait for spring now.
if you want something add to the mixture, common sense tells me first choice to try would be material that makes cruisble and torch tip. say aluminum oxide? those purple stuff that makes your tig torch tip. you can get them from any old aluminum casting, or those "white fire bricks", that's pretty easy to find and smash to power. be safe, pal.👍
Interesting, the lime should give off CO2 when heated, like Starlite, which will react with the waterglass.
Too bad you didn't weigh a sample pre and post burn.
If you want stiffness, just put some stainless steel shavings in the mix.
This stuff seems pretty cheap, so it could do as an outside liner of a furnace where weight isn't an issue, since the lime is sensitive to acid.
Even better for stiffness would be basalt chopped fibers.
great stuff I also will use my old sand blasting material and there's always a maintenance on my forges all take the old stuff that crumbles of and break it up and mix it into the mix and it last a long time . I been playing refectory for awhile. and feel I got it down I definitely keep it basic I keep it stupid simple
You should revisit this idea and add PDMS to your mixture. Silanes/siloxanes will decompose when exposed to high enough temperatures. When this thermal decomposition happens, since the polymer is made up of mostly carbon and silicon, what forms is silicon carbide nanofibers. I think it could provide a better structure to it.
Carbon nanotubes could also do the same thing and they're aren't too difficult to make low quality nanotubes. Just strike an arc between two graphite electrodes submerged in distilled water.
I'm very interested in what you've said! What search terms can I use to learn more about this sorta stuff, or how'd you learn about it? Does this mean than if I heat common silicone caulk in a kiln, I'll get SiC? (And also apparently formaldehyde! 😵)
@Nathan Martinez look into "preceramic polymers" or "polymer derived ceramics" Do a scholar search with that phrase, there is a lot of literature written on the subject by materials scientists.
It's actually possible to create 3d printed objects using "PDC's" and these objects can be baked in a kiln to yield ceramics. But that research is currently in its infancy.
Get familiar with scihub if you aren't already, it will give you access to any scientific articles you may not have access to.
@@toxomanrod yes, silicones can be fired to turn into silicon carbide, but I think you may have to mix it with some graphite powder. I read a paper that describes doing just that.
I do all my learning by searching terms in scholar (youtube won't let me use the "G" word) and then pirating the academic papers that I find in my searches.
@@franklingomez5311 wow this stuff is awesome! Wiki page isn't very long, which to me means there's still much to experiment! Looks like the process requires a reducing atmosphere, or as you've mentioned adding graphite so the excess carbon will react with oxygen. I've yet to find a good cheap source for bulk graphite powder for experimenting, you wouldn't happen to know of any?
@Nathan Martinez you really don't want to use wiki for your research, especially with a subject like this. Get yorself familiar with Ggle's "scholar search" and "scihub".
It's not complicated by any means and it gives you access to known good data. It's also not limited to any subject, you can do research on literally anything that comes to your mind.
I’d be interested to see what you could do incorporating equal parts vermiculite clay(cheap kitty litter) and prebaked and ground clay ie ceramic like tiles pottery or simply the fired clay as a powder, I feel like it would make a foundary liner like play dough, if you add something fibrous as well that should help prevent cracking working like a binder? If you give this mix a go keen to see the outcome!!
Its a no go my friend , it has great one time use ablation shield purposes but after that the moisture reacts with the calcium oxide created in the intense heat to make a hydroxide when cool , this as you no is deliquescent
What is the working time for this sodium silicate/garden lime before it sets up? Or, do you have to cure it with heat or co2?
Could it be used to coat Kaowool?
Longer crystals make things stronger so use longer crystal water glass or add it to that. I would also try Epson salt
I'm so glad you've shared your results! Have you experimented with using this "glue" as a cement to hold silica sand together, as you did with the sodium silicate cores? I'm not quite sure I've heard you mention this during the video... Seems like it could make a good bulk refractory. (If kept dry, judging by the comments.)
What are the rations of water, lime and water glass?
Grams and milliliters of water are the same thing on room temp.
How well would this hold up against molten iron?
I read a paper recently where they found they could convert silica gel into waterglass by cooking it in lye north of 200C (maybe lower) its neat to see this can be done at the lower temp you use, many thanks. I recently bought this tiny woodstove and the walls are thinner than expected so i'm looking around for something to coat the interior of it to help it stand up better to high temps, might try this mix of yours unless maybe somebody has a better suggestion
New to this, to anyone reading this is there a mix similar to this that'll yield a porous ceramic material similar to pumice? Wanting to make cape cod kerosene matches, they sound neat.
Also, I'm sure you're set up quite well for ventilation with your type of work, is it possible you've got a plugged filter in your ventilation system or maybe need more of it? You almost sound like you've inhaled too many fumes in this. I dont want to sound rude, its subtle, i notice in the vast majority of videos of people using fire in some way you can notice the mental effect it has on them. God some of the soldering videos I could swear the guys pickled their brains with all the lead fumes.
So garden lime and potassium silicate need to be cured with ambient carbon dioxide or will a blue flame work?
I do not recommend this composition friend .
Check my other videos , this was just a test and this stuff works great but its hydroscopic and converts to calcium hydroxide that expands 75%
@@NOBOX7 THANK You for your highly unique and effective pursuits and testings. It's hard not to be less interested in your side comments and background projects.
I am looking to build a rocket masonry oven+stove, bought plans from walkerstoves, which have scaled drawings for either stacked firebrick or for ceramic refractory board. On a tiny budget, I am always searching for DIY alternatives that hold up slightly better than firebrick and are considerably cheaper than the refractory boards. Seems like perlite and pre-mixed refractory mortar 1:1 is best for coating but not strong enough when molded into half-bricks, about the same price overall when figuring labor
I look forward to using my collected WVO in one of your burner models, should i be so bold as to attempt.
I'm a little confused. When I looked up garden lime, most sources said that it was calcium carbonate (essentially chalk), but you list calcium oxide in the description. Then there is quicklime/slaked lime/hydrated lime etc which is calcium hydroxide.
So is it calcium hydroxide, or calcium carbonate?
Thank you for considering.
when heated to hightemps it oxidizes to calciumoxide then he t oxide gets hydrated to hydroxide after cooling
I'm interested about your hydrogen generation system.
Yes i have about 50 videos on the subject if you need info
@@NOBOX7 Okay. How do we proceed ?
I would measure your refractory glue for temperature expansion and contraction, anyting I added would be to get that number closer to whatever your painting it on. expanding and contracting A different race is probably what's making it come loose from the metal.
As far as the water glass sand cores, I was told they fall apart at high temperature so that when the metal shrinks as it cools it breaks the sand rather than itself. they are intentionally designed to do that to work correctly inside a green sand mold. You also want to be able to remove that core when you're done casting the metal so it helps if it falls apart on its own
Have a look at the Geopolymer institute the work of prof Davidovits he popularised concrete & other mineral based polymers made from metakaolin clay waterglass+ blast furnace slag fly ash or red mud,vermiculite or perlite can also be mixed in Im looking for a version of this that can be used instead of epoxy resin like the one being used in high end vehicle & aerospace.The chemical bonds are primarily silicon oxygen Aluminium so Alumino Silicate.
Reading Prof. Davidovits 4th edition book now. Expensive and chem formula dense reading. See @GeopolymerInternational for America lead development.
th-cam.com/video/_b5dgyB6K6w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CryXK6zaadMG_GfM
Sorry if I missed it, but............if you were making a castable refactory mix (not the glue) your mix would be "what?" with waterglass. ratio's? Excellent on your glue. Basically I am talking a casting for a rocket stove, so wood placed every day, with temps in the 2000 degree range, then cooled down.Daily maybe the problem, year after year.
I would try to make it more porous.. atm it more is like a "liner" something to smear on firebricks to make em last longer.. but if you wanna make a brick out of it.. it should be more pourous. :)
I like this vidio- that might work good for a burn tube for my wood powered truck- I like that strength test- though ceramic blanket is lighter, if coated with pure water glass- though that stuff looks excellent if you can combine some insulative properties to the mix- as long as its stronger than ceramic blanket,it would work for part of the burn tube , in a wood powered truck, there were over 1 million vehicles powered by wood during several war time frames due too gasoline shortages.
How does it work with cast metals? We all know how hard it is to weld and though JB weld works ok. In high heat like exhaust manifolds its lacking at time. I can see using a coarse steel wool to aid in vibration strength. On any cast automotive part. Even holes in mufflers. No down time taking it off and having the manifold welded that isnt always a fix as these welds can be hit or miss. We all know that medical cast like crap muffler wrap sucks as well.If its sandable and paintable then the use in the automovtive repair field will be great.
When I worked for Pillar Industries we made huge industrial induction heat treating/parts handling robotic systems. The main units utilized in the foundries were for smelting and creating various molten steel and aluminum blends to pour into sand molds. Refractory coatings were utilized to reflect heat inward and insure a proper barrier between the molten metal and the inductive coils buried in the Refractory that was used to melt the metals.
Great input , That 100HT or what ever it is also does that
Hi I want to make lost wax dipping mortar for casting
How does hold up to flux for forge
This batch is no good its kinda a one time use thing , try aluminum oxide instead
@Nobox7
Nurd rage video shows 2 recipes for sodium silicate. 1st, 60g sodium hydroxide, 80g silica gel, 100g water. 2nd, 30-40g sodium hydroxide, 60g silica gel, 100g water. You were showing 200 water written on your cores. Very interesting refractory you have made though. Does it last? Does it absorb moisture from the air?
Yes i tried all compositons and found the others to be to wet or to dry , the latter turning into a solid on the shelf in the jar
@@NOBOX7 So you did the recipe like you said with the 200g water and it keeps? Nurd rage did add a little extra water to his first mix. And did your refractory last or crumble?
I make my own sodium silicate, and I have some Hyrdrated Lime I bought at Home Depot.
Mixed it as you describe and just 700f turns it into a weak crumbly material. As far as I know the Hydrated Lime
they sell at Home Depot is the same as Agricultural lime you are using?
It does crumble to powder after it is calcined , it was not the best for log term use
@@NOBOX7 So no matter what type of lime you use it will crumble with time?
This one crumbled right away. Are your pieces holding up still? Or are they crumbling?
Thank you
Hydrated lime is calcium hydroxide. Garden lime is calcium carbonate.
@@timhain8263
Howdy Tim. I have made a similar comment about the difference on Tim Telemarks comment. He too had used calcium hydroxide. It doesn't work.
@@timhain8263 Thank you!!! I am now trying Alumina Hydrate. Should make a huge difference.
You've got precious discovery out there, can it be used as crucible?
Its a one time thing , it reacts with moisture . I have made an update video
Will you give us the recipe that you made the glue out of? What kind of waterglass lime did you use and what kind of garden lime?also amounts please I dont want to waste money not getting it right 2 different kinds of lime and most reasonable on amazon is 15 bucks a piece and they are the cheapest. But will the give me the same results? I dont want to buy them and find out later that I needed to buy a different kind. Id rather buy the more expensive and have your product when done.thanks for this video. I have cracks in my firebrck forge that I plan on using your glue on. Thank you
Dont use lime , use aluminum oxide
what foundry isnt carcinogenic? what is yours made of that isnt refractory concrete? are u referring to the airborne particulates?
yes , the dust is bad the chunks are ok
Thank you So much for sharing this with us - Much appreciated!!! Melt Happy Pour Safe! 😎
Very interesting
Try making some starlight material and experimenting with that. Might have to blast it into carbon first before mixing up with anything.
Nice product
@ NOBOX7 I have watched this video and your one about best sodium silicate proportions. You have had some of the recipes harden in the jar when storing, sometimes overnight. Something to think about this. Sodium hydroxide after opening the container easily absorbs carbon dioxide. Carbon dioxide cures sodium silicate. So if you make the sodium silicate solution with sodium hydroxide which already has carbon dioxide in it, that could be curing in the jar when storing. The sodium hydroxide used must be a freshly opened new jar. Just think that is possible. I wonder if heating the already opened sodium hydroxide could make sure there is not carbon dioxide in it? Blessings
so interested in buying some looks so good so far
Oxyhydrogen torch such big ? Be safe man.Doesnt worth to die for youtube.
Will it patch and exhaust pipe?
it depend on if any moving parts are involved . It might , in fact i wouldn't be surprised if they used water glass in the stor bought
I agree and like the clay and graphite ass a addative
What is waterglass?
Water soluble sodium silicate. Can be made from silica gel and lye.
Phenomenal bro. Maybe carbon or graphite based substance to enhance an even mixture. You got a good discovery.
Possibly sand and or carbon.
Very fine fine ground sand.
Carbon and graphite its just fuel .It burns.
Nice Video! Try exposing it to moisture or water after cooking it red hot before doing any investment as a product.
Yes it is not compatible with moisture it changes chemically
@@NOBOX7 CaO + 2H2O --> Ca(OH)2 +H2
But if you could bond Magnesim oxide or alminium Oxide rather than calcium oxide, Indeed you could beat current commercial products.
Firebrick isint supposed to be dence the best fire bricks are super lightweight and "fluffy" feeling they dont just withstand the mass ammount of heat they allso insulate it could try adding somthing like vermiculite( melting point around 2400°F) or perlite (melting point around 2300°F) to both reduce weight aswell as add insulating properties in the production of ur own bricks
I wish I could find conclusive information of the melting point of wood ash, but charcoal gravel of a similar consistency will produce the same results if not better.
Check that link see what you think
Guys the metal is stainless steel . If it was steel it would of burnt a hole threw in under 5 seconds. And thats quarts not glass
maybe magnetite as 3rd ingredient
ill check it out
hey! 3rd ingredient; basalt fibers!!
right on
Agreed, l came here looking for a high heat glue for my basalt reinforced MGO board
11:14 it can be
plus I'm poor boy shop try to recycle everything I can
Graphite powder
Excellent find! Thank You SO MUCH for Sharing! 🙏🚂🎼🌹🎵🎶🛠 ~C< 3)>>-Z->}
I'm calling BS on this! I have tried several different times, varying the waterglass / lime ratios AND 3 types of lime - hydrated lime, dolomite lime, and plain lawn lime. Nothing even came close to what is shown in this video. Nothing hardened - it was just a sticky mess.
Save yourself some time and try something else!
your water glass had to much water or not enough hydroxide was used
@@NOBOX7 As far as water goes, I don't think so - I tried a couple of passes with the waterglass so thick it was difficult to work with.
And what hydroxide? The video includes lime and waterglass - there is no mention of a hydroxide, in fact the title says "Calcium Oxide refractory Glue 4,000 Deg F working temp"
@@joesmith1922 you need sodium hydroxide to make water glass. It was in the recipe in the video
@@edrimeikis9270 Yes I have plenty of waterglass, made with sodium hydroxide.
Maybe mine is not good...
@@joesmith1922 when you add water to calcium oxide it becomes calcium hydroxide.
ᵖʳᵒᵐᵒˢᵐ 🎊
The double voices make your video impossible to learn from.
Homemade water glass and perlite is what I made my forge out of. Of course it has its limitations. That and I was dealing with a back injury when I made it. 5 lumbar surgeries, 3 lumbar fusions later, and I'm back at it. I can't wait to build my next one. Paint can forge was the first. The rest became rocket stoves. I can't wait to get another mig welder. Built 2 wood gasification systems, rocket stoves, and a kiln with the last welder. Son in law left it in the rain. I guess it's lucky for him I as a disabled vet didn't just squash his head lol. Now I am left using JB Weld. But I guarantee I'll engineer a whole new system.
Dude I wish I thought of this sooner, but every advantage perlite has is easily available with the same consistency of charcoal gravel. Either it remains unburnt, or becomes further insulative as a fine lattice of fluffy ash in the cavity it is trapped in.