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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
- I searched the Internet and made phone calls , even attended a dry out meeting . Im bringing you some expensive wisdom .
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What i meant buy it did not cure as planned was it was still very green after 24 hours and my form removal caused some superficial damage to the shape . But we got lucky as i intended to grind those areas out any way but it was a close call . Some of the concreat was still way tosoft for form removal .
2 days is a better bet .
I did not expect soft green concreate after that long of a cure . I then discovered concrete guys may wait 5 days before allowing blankets to be removed let alone forms when the weather is cold .
I've had some really good luck with concrete vibrators, vibrating the air bubbles out of the concrete makes it really solid
seconds into this, glad you're not gone, and learning lots 👍
Curing concrete is a chemical process, not a drying process.
Check an article about curing ulcc castables. Moisturing ulcc lowers green strength comparing to air curing. ULCC needs about 0.3-0.7% of water (on CAC mass) for hydrating, water above this will evaporate and is needed only for acceptable consistency for installing. Good job and thank author for making this kind of videos (no sarcasm) 👍
Great video som people get a better understanding of cement and concrete use, let it burn chemical in wet conditions to get best results and let it take time 👍
Preventing freezing during castable cure is crucial for maintaining structural strength on a microscopic scale. freezing makes the un-reacted water content form microscopic ice crystals, which expand and push the alumina/silica grains apart from one another, preventing those particles from chemically bonding together, (the calcium aluminate or phosphate won’t adhere the particle surfaces together for sufficient green strength) and leaving microcracks between those refractory grains that will not sinter together during heat cure, either. If the water content is low enough, you might not have the cast piece fail with a visible crack - but you may encounter more crumbling and dusting of the finished cast than should be expected from a cure that is maintained within the appropriate temperature range.
Lots of info here thanks ehhhh
Is this some kind of contious furnace
wow man, that thing is intense. it looks like its for incinerating... torpedos lol
Scoliosis is a bent spine 😆 Silicosis, likely.
Lol yeah i knew i messed that up
Hello love ur build videos and knowledge.. I was wondering if u have every done a pearllite and water glass mix very lite and strong thanks Brandon
Awesome
Concrete is similar to epoxy or fiberglass. They get get hot and cure. It's a chemical reaction
Yes i herd the hoover dam is still releasing heat and it has water pipes in it to cool it
What is the actual Resco product name of the refractory material you are using. Resco makes several different products with 55-60% alumina
Ezcube 60 . Great point sorry about that
Thanks man, you really do a good job on your videos. I've been watching yours for a couple of years. Keep up the good work
Carl
Is all this going to be in your book?
Say again? Drying your concrete?
yep it must be slowly dried wen used as a refractory