The translucent plastic like they did with the 1:1000 scale Voyager kit is the way to go. The clear plastic kits from the C and D are very brittle. The translucent seems to be much, much stronger. I love the new box art. Looks like it can be a display piece.
In 1/72 scale the Enterprise C would be about 20 feet long. If I modeled it in 1/200 scale it would be in the 7 foot range. I haven't actually scaled it but maybe someday after I get the 3 TOS plus the K7 Space Station, and the 2 Daedalus designs, I could look at something like this.
@@TrekFanNCC-1701 LOL, It would probably take about 13o pieces or so to make it work on my Max printer. Let me get TOS Constitution tackled first then I can model C.
Wow Jerry! I've never been a fan of the C, but this kit is awesome! I still have the AMT Fiber Optic D to build, but I think I may add this kit to the stash... Thanks as always for another great video and happy building! 🖖
Thank you for the kind words my friend. I think the USS Enterprise C is absolutely beautiful. I wish we would have seen more of her. The Enterprise D fiber optic kit is pretty fun. Takes patience though. Thank you for watching my friend.
Hi Jerry, good luck on your build of Enterprise C. I am currently working on the original AMT release and I just want to give you a couple of heads up on that I ran into. I don't know if they corrected the problems/issues after the first release. 1. The peg hole that is used for the stand, it's an atrocious eye sore and took me forever to file and sand it down to fit and conform flush with the secondary hull. Not sure if the new one is different 2. If you look at the ribbing on the neck straight on, on the original release they were off on alignment. Had to use putty to sculpt the front straight. 3. The peg of the neck that goes into the saucer had to be filed back to fit the secondary hull into the pie shape area correctly. 4. The impulse deck in the back of the neck was also a nightmare to do. It was a really bad fit. 5. On your kit, the 2nd deflector with the "button" in it is for the Yamaguchi. 6. About 75% of the pics online of the Ambassadors are a composite between the two. So if you're really wanting to build the Enterprise C, study the studio model pictures best. 7. I'm envious about your paint guide. When I did mine I had to do 10% color A and 90 % Color B to make Starship color 1. So on and so forth. 😅 Looking forward to seeing you do the build. Again good luck.
Thank you for the info my friend. I appreciate it. As for the paint guide, I think I will go with the on screen colors (Or at least my interpretation of them) instead of the paint guide, but we'll see. Best of luck with your build!
I just picked up this model and Im currently picking up the paints and lights I need for it while I tape it off for light blocking. Do you plan on continuing with this model soon?
Actually, I do not know when I will actually get to it. I have so many projects going on right now. It may be a while, sorry. Best of luck with your build!
What? O guess you didn't grow up with Standard Definition Television, and or a 15 inch Black and White television like we had when I was born to the age of seven, LOL.
I always liked the Ambassador class. When I played the Star Trek combat ship game some years back, I would take on Borg Cubes and Deridex ships with one.
One of the problems with clear parts is if you use say nav strobes they pick up all through the clear part and you can see the strobe effect through the windows. Maybe you won't have that problem with this type of plastic?
I am not sure yet. Just starting the build. Yes, it is very important to light block around the strobes. In the past, I have had them protruding through the ship and light block what is inside.
@@TrekFanNCC-1701 Have you thought about fiber optics for the strobes? I don't think it would be that difficult to bundle fiber optics with a SMD and run the individual strands to each strobe position.
The translucent plastic like they did with the 1:1000 scale Voyager kit is the way to go. The clear plastic kits from the C and D are very brittle. The translucent seems to be much, much stronger. I love the new box art. Looks like it can be a display piece.
Good point about the being brittle. I did notice how plyable these parts are.
In 1/72 scale the Enterprise C would be about 20 feet long. If I modeled it in 1/200 scale it would be in the 7 foot range. I haven't actually scaled it but maybe someday after I get the 3 TOS plus the K7 Space Station, and the 2 Daedalus designs, I could look at something like this.
I would LOVE a 7 foot Enterprise C!
@@TrekFanNCC-1701 LOL, It would probably take about 13o pieces or so to make it work on my Max printer. Let me get TOS Constitution tackled first then I can model C.
@@TwistedSisterHaratiofales Sounds good. =-)
woah! awesome, ive got a few ideas with this kit! awesome review buddy! love it as always!
Thank you my friend. I appreciate your support. =^>
Wow Jerry! I've never been a fan of the C, but this kit is awesome! I still have the AMT Fiber Optic D to build, but I think I may add this kit to the stash...
Thanks as always for another great video and happy building! 🖖
Thank you for the kind words my friend. I think the USS Enterprise C is absolutely beautiful. I wish we would have seen more of her. The Enterprise D fiber optic kit is pretty fun. Takes patience though. Thank you for watching my friend.
Hi Jerry, good luck on your build of Enterprise C. I am currently working on the original AMT release and I just want to give you a couple of heads up on that I ran into. I don't know if they corrected the problems/issues after the first release.
1. The peg hole that is used for the stand, it's an atrocious eye sore and took me forever to file and sand it down to fit and conform flush with the secondary hull. Not sure if the new one is different
2. If you look at the ribbing on the neck straight on, on the original release they were off on alignment. Had to use putty to sculpt the front straight.
3. The peg of the neck that goes into the saucer had to be filed back to fit the secondary hull into the pie shape area correctly.
4. The impulse deck in the back of the neck was also a nightmare to do. It was a really bad fit.
5. On your kit, the 2nd deflector with the "button" in it is for the Yamaguchi.
6. About 75% of the pics online of the Ambassadors are a composite between the two. So if you're really wanting to build the Enterprise C, study the studio model pictures best.
7. I'm envious about your paint guide. When I did mine I had to do 10% color A and 90 % Color B to make Starship color 1. So on and so forth. 😅
Looking forward to seeing you do the build. Again good luck.
Thank you for the info my friend. I appreciate it. As for the paint guide, I think I will go with the on screen colors (Or at least my interpretation of them) instead of the paint guide, but we'll see. Best of luck with your build!
I just picked up this model and Im currently picking up the paints and lights I need for it while I tape it off for light blocking. Do you plan on continuing with this model soon?
Actually, I do not know when I will actually get to it. I have so many projects going on right now. It may be a while, sorry. Best of luck with your build!
I started watching your video but it's currently only 360p. I'll come back later and watch.:)
What? O guess you didn't grow up with Standard Definition Television, and or a 15 inch Black and White television like we had when I was born to the age of seven, LOL.
Yeah, it should take about an hour for the HD. Thank you for watching.
Discovery, aka "The ST wannabe"😂
I always liked the Ambassador class. When I played the Star Trek combat ship game some years back, I would take on Borg Cubes and Deridex ships with one.
Cool
One of the problems with clear parts is if you use say nav strobes they pick up all through the clear part and you can see the strobe effect through the windows. Maybe you won't have that problem with this type of plastic?
I am not sure yet. Just starting the build. Yes, it is very important to light block around the strobes. In the past, I have had them protruding through the ship and light block what is inside.
@@TrekFanNCC-1701 Have you thought about fiber optics for the strobes? I don't think it would be that difficult to bundle fiber optics with a SMD and run the individual strands to each strobe position.
@@michaelbenjmitchell1 That is certainly possible. I am using fiber optics in my USS Reliant damaged version build.
Did you build it?
Not yet. I have several projects going on right now and haven't gotten to it yet. Hopefully at some point I will, lol.
I was going to see you put it together not talk about