Thanks for doing a review on the V14, if I may address some of your takes on the machine. Disclaimer I own a V14 and these are my opinions. Sorry I merged all my comments together, TH-cam didn't like me posting 8 different essay comments xD 1) Pedal dipping This is a tough one to find the root cause for as it happens when the wheel is in motion and hard to put down facts than 'feelings'. My analysis of why pedal dipping in your specific example (landing from a jump) is similar to the free spin test people do. As you know in a free spin test, you lift the wheel, it goes to max speed then shuts off after a certain amount of time - this is important. In a jump your wheel goes pretty fast (not max speed), the wheel then leaves the ground, then goes max speed (because there is no ground, just like free spin), then hits the ground, 'pedal dips', then hopefully recovers. What I believe is happening is that when the wheel is in the air after jumping, it is spinning up then cutting out just like a free spin test, when it hits the ground it is recovering from shutting down sequence. The pedal dip is the wheel realizing it is on the ground and turning back on again. How do we know for sure this is what is happening - test how long it takes for the wheel to enter "shutdown mode" when in the air, continue to do jumps are just below that time. If shutdown mode starts after 2 seconds after reaching max wheel spin speed (free spin test 7:49 in your video, first beeps at max wheel speed 7:51, then shut down mode 7:53 then screen turns off), then my hypothesis is that the wheel will fail/turn off if your jump air time is greater than 2 secs or whatever time frame till shut down mode is. What I think INMOTION can do to fix this, is to add JUMP mode, where they lengthen the time it takes it to enter shutdown mode. Increase it to 4 secs instead of 2. There should be a warning signs just like BERM mode to let the user know that it you aren't skilled enough the wheel might potentially hurt you more. Can you think of a jump that you do which you have more than 4 seconds of air time? Again I'm too chicken to even do 1 sec of air time xD but I reckon this is the fix for this phantom pedal dipping/pre mature shut down mode. 2) Pedals I think the pedals are great! But pedal 'goodness' is a two way street. If you're wearing bad shoes, it doesn't matter what pedals you're using they're going to be bad. I've been using Adidas Ultra boost shoes which has the Continental rubber soles as well as small pockets cut out into the tread. I believe the reason why I think the stock pedals are good because the the small knobs lock into my shoe's tread and the Continental rubber grips the flat metal parts of the pedal. Regardless of what I wear though, I think people should also think about what shoe they're wearing before blaming the pedals. For example see the soles of road motorcycle boots, vs motorcross boots, vs Vans waffle pattern. The soles are all different because the pedals they are used in conjunction with are on are also different. Road motorcycle boots = metal pedals with small knurling on sport bikes, motorcross boots = big metal spiked teeth pedals, vans waffle pattern = skateboard sandpaper grip surface. The Ultra boosts I use is a mix of rubber sole plus deepish pattern (: I have owned the Sidi Vertigo race boots on a sport bike, and the Fox Comp boot on a dirt bike and have casually used the Vans as a walkabout shoe. 3) Pads I agree with you here, the stock pads are stiff and not as forgiving as the Grizzlas Flow Compacts I have. The outer skin layer of the stock pads feel 'slippery'. Especially if you wear knee/shin guards like I do. But maybe someone might make the stock pads work if they wear the right pants or mod their knee/shin guards so that the outer materials doesn't slip? (See my argument on pedals below regarding slipping) The stiffness though is subjective, so some people might like the 1:1 input into the pads gives them instant response. I personally perfect the softer Grizzlas. Note: You say that the Alexas Shark pads are the best money can buy, but you don't say why? At the time of me writing this, I haven't checked if you've done a video on them yet. 4) Suspension clunking Also agree with you here, the design of this doesn't help. The suspension 'tops' out which is what the clunking noise you hear. Take a look at the pedals + bottom of the fork/stanchion tubes. When you bring the EUC upwards, it impacts the black flat bushing which hits the fork frame (see this video here th-cam.com/video/pvbUMo4mPFM/w-d-xo.html you can see the bushing hitting the black frame, this is the source of the clunking). How is INMOTION going to fix this? Extend the silver fork tubes, add suspension in the opposite direction (: 5) Suspension design I believe the shock and spring combo should be slightly compressed when the wheel is at it's rest state (no load). Think of your car shock suspension. There was a video showing how to assemble the V14 together so that you didn't have to bash that black pin in, if I find it I'll add it this part of the comment (*add video link here*). Maybe another video could be how to swap out V14 shocks? Are you part of the INMOTION FB group? A user called 'Hou Ningning' posted his X style design for the V14, which uses a Begode shock. Could your mate Brad imitate this design? 6) Software design I would like INMOTION to allow us to log the beeps and what they pertain to so we can fault find. This way we can know at what time it fails and what was the cause of failure. This could potentially help us understand why pedal dipping occurs after landing from a jump. Or what happens when you drop it on its side and then starts back up and then turns off again 7:58 (I believe that the first beep is it telling you that it is on its side, the wheel rocks back up so it starts up again inside of BERM mode, then it rocks past BERM mode and free spins, double beep reaches tilt back, then single beep when it reaches max speed, then single beep shuts down for safety). 7) Wheel design I agree that the front protruding feature is not my style. I prefer the box-y looking style of Leaperkim wheels. Super functional and utilitarian. Big handles like LK and lights that are inset and protected by the bumpers and handles. INMOTION did win a design award though so, I guess people like the look of it? With the trolley handle, I had a spill at about 50 kmph, and the trolley handle popped up and destroyed itself when it tumbled down the road. At least I don't have pop up trolley handle issue anymore because it's not there anymore haha. Anyways, let me sum up by saying you're a great rider, and definitely much better than I am! As I was writing out my essay, I was thinking of maybe making my own video to address these points.. Hmm. Thanks again for the video!
Hey :) thank for your comment. While in the air, the wheel is not meant to freespin a lot (if it does it means the rider has bad form), so to me it's just a matter of power once the wheel hits the ground. If the ground is soft then it requires more power. And regarding the pads, indeed I don't say why they are good, but (spoiler) my next video will be about pads so I will address it there
@@chapeauxderoue343 My rebuttal against this is 1) What is good form so that the wheel isn't meant to free spin? Is the wheel supposed to straight up and down when you're jumping? If so, what is the difference between good jumping form vs a freespin wheel test people do? My take is that the wheel software does not know the difference between jumping or freespin test, if there is no ground feedback ie keeping the wheel stationary, the wheel will automatically think it is falling head first (wheel going going forward) and spin. When I've watched videos of people jumping, their landing always consists of rubber burning the ground or dirt spitting out the back. I reckon this is due to the wheel spinning up to max speed. Again this is all speculation until we see the algorithm of the wheel, what parameters will cause it to spin, not spin, or shutdown (:
@@chapeauxderoue343 Great video guys i was thinking about buying the V14 as my first EUC but not i am not too sure. They say you should get the best EUC you can afford so i was looking at a higher end model. Is there another EUC you would recommend that is good with power ?
@@chapeauxderoue343 th-cam.com/video/pvbUMo4mPFM/w-d-xo.html apparently inmotion made this video saying its not the suspension but the slides and they show you how to fix it or make it better.
If you stay leveled the wheel will not freespin. Ruber burning on landing = bad form (=riders leans forward or backwards while in the air). I will do a video on this at some point
This is what I wanted for Unix's (V14) documentation video. I wanted a detailed explanation and video like this. A professional explanation and detailed quality of the parts of the product, and the explanation of each situation that fits it....and also the parts that apply in real life... This video and explanation made a lot of sense to me, and in many ways, helped me to understand the V14 inmotion is helpful.
I think it's like the best and the most objective wheel rewiev i've ever seen on youtube, so pls don't stop making videos, i really do like ho you do it:D
Im having all the same problems regarding suspension with the V14. it is true that the shock is unaligned with the linkage by factory. However, by Inmotion instruction, you need to remove the pedal hangers from the bottom beforehand to relieve tension. The topping out is probably due to the really stiff spring they chose to compensate for the lack of travel and weight of the wheel (Which basically allows no sag). I honestly wish they went for a better geometry or higher travel design. it really lets it down compared to the likes of Extreme. My only gripe with the wheel so far though.
As a commuter with that wheel 😅 I have to say that the wheel is amazing... I haven't gone to jumps in the forest yet. But I can relate to the quirks it is facing. I do agree with you: It is an amazing wheel with room for improvement. I am just addicted to the power of it. Even with the pedal dip on loose surfaces, it has not yet thrown me off!
@@silverpro8356 I am not sure how good it will be as a first EUC as it is expensive and heavy at 40kg. But other than that, I don’t think you’ll find a better 16inch EUC, especially if Weather resistance is key and you want performance for the future 😅 just be sure to get the 50s model. I find it does still run at 50kph at less than 30% Battery. So easy. And I weigh 110kg with gear.
Cool review, thanks. I have v14 for this seson. If you want change shock you should unscrews pedals from sliders and You will have space...I know it's time consumption but You can do it without a hummer...thanks fot tip with 80 degrees angle!! I had clunk, I think like You. In my case I must screw very very hard 8 screws on the top of sliders on two clips.
Merci beaucoup pour la video, j'étais surpris par le titre, mais finalement vous en dites quand même du bien. 😊 Je suis personnellement très content de cette roue, mais je n'ai absolument pas la meme utilisation. Par contre j'ai remarqué également ce claquement à la détente, ca ne serait pas tout simplement au niveau des tubes? Car il y a de quoi amortir en butée de compression, mais est-ce qu'il y a quelque chose pour amortir la détente max? Edit: je viens de voir qu'il y a un caoutchouc au niveau des fixations des pédales, donc c'est etonnant, car le claquement est assez sec. Et je suis daccord, l'amortisseur est un peu dur dorigine, mais pas non plus inconfortable, du moins pour mes 83kg. Le moteur est assez gourmand, mais quel plaisir lors des accélérations !
Content que ta roue te plaise :) Oui c'est possible que ce soit la structure des tubes, quelque chose qui arrive en butée. En tout cas ça impacte beaucoup le ride dans les sections techniques, c'est embêtant.
I also like the way you review. But I am a street-riding old fart who is interested in trails and mixing with city traffic. Do you do that, too, or am I in the wrong place?
OMG good review but the way you attacked the removal and installation of the shock shocked me. If you don’t ha the proper tools or training on the use of tools you probably should leave the job to someone with more mechanical skill😮
I bet this goes something like "Only zee S twunty deus is dee good wheel, even though it breaks every time you ride it. You juss muss take with you zee extra muzzer board"
I wonder if the pedals were able to slide up and down so that the inside foot can slide up, away from the axle, toward the seat, to allow you angulate the wheel more, like a skier who weights his outside foot/ski in turns, while the inside foot is pulled in toward his body and unweighted. I've ridden a OneWheel, but I haven't ridden an EUC, yet. I'm leaning toward the V14.
Good points, nice review. You're echoing a lot of the same sentiments that I feel with it. However I don't think I would place it above the Extreme any day. That's me personally with 1700 miles of trails and jumping on the extreme and just a small handful on the adventure. My mind is still not made up entirely ands I need to do some more trail riding. I think the extreme angle lips make the firmware lose it a little. That's where it had freaked me out and made me think twice about jumping it.
The way you rolled out of the crash means you are a skater, bmxer or judo guy. Like me 😊 Great review and video. I ride an Adrams (I know - but it was so cheap) but I am saving for a lynx. €4000 is no joke.
The top out clunk is a lack of top out damping/bump stop at top out. I wonder if this is the shock or linkage design? Maybe a rubber stop in the right place could help if changing the shock doesn't fix it.
Guys, do you have the power assist on? I’m asking because three days ago I did a range test with the power assist off (pedal hardness 100%, of course), and the pedals were constantly flat. Today, I had the assist on (to check the braking distance) with 50% acceleration and 100% braking. I don’t understand the intention of this function, but basically, the wheel just tilts the pedal angle. During hard braking, having your heels down gives a nice feeling, but during acceleration, the pedals dipped and it felt uncomfortable and makes wobbles sometimes. Next time I need to try 0% for acceleration. In my opinion for jumping it should be just off.
cool review, pour mon utilisation un peu plus casu, je suis super content de cette V14. toujours plein de puissance disponible quand tu en as besoin, par contre au dessus de 50km/h c'est presque 2% de batterie par 1km. comme tu dis que l'amortisseur ne te convient pas mais qu'il est standard, es ce que tu comptes tenter un swap avec un amortisseur d'une qualité équivalente à ta S22 (pour la science :) ).
Merci ! Pour l'amortisseur j'aurais bien voulu mais depuis, je suis rentré en France et je n'ai plus la roue donc ça ne risque pas d'arriver de sitôt. Mais c'est certain qu'installer un bon amortisseur sur la V14 améliorerait sensiblement les performances en tout-terrain.
44 kg ? Pourquoi sur la fiche technique il affiche 40 kg ? Il ya 4 kg de pads ? 😅 J'ai commandé cette roue en 50s mais toujours pas de date de réception pour la france encore, ma vendeuse ali express m'a même proposé de changer ma commande pour une autre roue en insistant sur le fait que leaperkim font des roues de meilleure qualité avec un meilleur sav , qu'en penses tu ? Devrais je changer ma commande pour une Patton 50s par exemple ? Ce serais ma deuxième roue , je roule avec une vieille Z10 qui a bientôt 8000kms.
Oui les fairings & les pads ajoutent du poids, c'est aussi pourquoi je conseille de mettre le velcro directement sur les packs batterie. Entre la Patton et la V14, ne réfléchis même pas, reste sur la V14. D'ailleurs le SAV dépend de ton vendeur, pas du constructeur (mais certains vendeurs sur Aliexpress pipotent pas mal avec ça)
Ahah, pour avoir une v14 et une Sherman S (même type d'amortisseur que la Lynx ou Patton), les 2 n'ont rien à voir, c'est juste fastace qui les fabrique, mais ce sont 2 systèmes totalement différents.
Thanks for doing a review on the V14, if I may address some of your takes on the machine. Disclaimer I own a V14 and these are my opinions. Sorry I merged all my comments together, TH-cam didn't like me posting 8 different essay comments xD
1) Pedal dipping
This is a tough one to find the root cause for as it happens when the wheel is in motion and hard to put down facts than 'feelings'. My analysis of why pedal dipping in your specific example (landing from a jump) is similar to the free spin test people do. As you know in a free spin test, you lift the wheel, it goes to max speed then shuts off after a certain amount of time - this is important. In a jump your wheel goes pretty fast (not max speed), the wheel then leaves the ground, then goes max speed (because there is no ground, just like free spin), then hits the ground, 'pedal dips', then hopefully recovers. What I believe is happening is that when the wheel is in the air after jumping, it is spinning up then cutting out just like a free spin test, when it hits the ground it is recovering from shutting down sequence. The pedal dip is the wheel realizing it is on the ground and turning back on again.
How do we know for sure this is what is happening - test how long it takes for the wheel to enter "shutdown mode" when in the air, continue to do jumps are just below that time.
If shutdown mode starts after 2 seconds after reaching max wheel spin speed (free spin test 7:49 in your video, first beeps at max wheel speed 7:51, then shut down mode 7:53 then screen turns off), then my hypothesis is that the wheel will fail/turn off if your jump air time is greater than 2 secs or whatever time frame till shut down mode is.
What I think INMOTION can do to fix this, is to add JUMP mode, where they lengthen the time it takes it to enter shutdown mode. Increase it to 4 secs instead of 2. There should be a warning signs just like BERM mode to let the user know that it you aren't skilled enough the wheel might potentially hurt you more. Can you think of a jump that you do which you have more than 4 seconds of air time? Again I'm too chicken to even do 1 sec of air time xD but I reckon this is the fix for this phantom pedal dipping/pre mature shut down mode.
2) Pedals
I think the pedals are great! But pedal 'goodness' is a two way street. If you're wearing bad shoes, it doesn't matter what pedals you're using they're going to be bad.
I've been using Adidas Ultra boost shoes which has the Continental rubber soles as well as small pockets cut out into the tread.
I believe the reason why I think the stock pedals are good because the the small knobs lock into my shoe's tread and the Continental rubber grips the flat metal parts of the pedal.
Regardless of what I wear though, I think people should also think about what shoe they're wearing before blaming the pedals.
For example see the soles of road motorcycle boots, vs motorcross boots, vs Vans waffle pattern. The soles are all different because the pedals they are used in conjunction with are on are also different. Road motorcycle boots = metal pedals with small knurling on sport bikes, motorcross boots = big metal spiked teeth pedals, vans waffle pattern = skateboard sandpaper grip surface.
The Ultra boosts I use is a mix of rubber sole plus deepish pattern (:
I have owned the Sidi Vertigo race boots on a sport bike, and the Fox Comp boot on a dirt bike and have casually used the Vans as a walkabout shoe.
3) Pads
I agree with you here, the stock pads are stiff and not as forgiving as the Grizzlas Flow Compacts I have. The outer skin layer of the stock pads feel 'slippery'. Especially if you wear knee/shin guards like I do.
But maybe someone might make the stock pads work if they wear the right pants or mod their knee/shin guards so that the outer materials doesn't slip? (See my argument on pedals below regarding slipping)
The stiffness though is subjective, so some people might like the 1:1 input into the pads gives them instant response. I personally perfect the softer Grizzlas.
Note: You say that the Alexas Shark pads are the best money can buy, but you don't say why? At the time of me writing this, I haven't checked if you've done a video on them yet.
4) Suspension clunking
Also agree with you here, the design of this doesn't help. The suspension 'tops' out which is what the clunking noise you hear. Take a look at the pedals + bottom of the fork/stanchion tubes. When you bring the EUC upwards, it impacts the black flat bushing which hits the fork frame (see this video here th-cam.com/video/pvbUMo4mPFM/w-d-xo.html you can see the bushing hitting the black frame, this is the source of the clunking).
How is INMOTION going to fix this? Extend the silver fork tubes, add suspension in the opposite direction (:
5) Suspension design
I believe the shock and spring combo should be slightly compressed when the wheel is at it's rest state (no load). Think of your car shock suspension.
There was a video showing how to assemble the V14 together so that you didn't have to bash that black pin in, if I find it I'll add it this part of the comment (*add video link here*).
Maybe another video could be how to swap out V14 shocks?
Are you part of the INMOTION FB group? A user called 'Hou Ningning' posted his X style design for the V14, which uses a Begode shock. Could your mate Brad imitate this design?
6) Software design
I would like INMOTION to allow us to log the beeps and what they pertain to so we can fault find. This way we can know at what time it fails and what was the cause of failure. This could potentially help us understand why pedal dipping occurs after landing from a jump. Or what happens when you drop it on its side and then starts back up and then turns off again 7:58 (I believe that the first beep is it telling you that it is on its side, the wheel rocks back up so it starts up again inside of BERM mode, then it rocks past BERM mode and free spins, double beep reaches tilt back, then single beep when it reaches max speed, then single beep shuts down for safety).
7) Wheel design
I agree that the front protruding feature is not my style. I prefer the box-y looking style of Leaperkim wheels. Super functional and utilitarian. Big handles like LK and lights that are inset and protected by the bumpers and handles.
INMOTION did win a design award though so, I guess people like the look of it?
With the trolley handle, I had a spill at about 50 kmph, and the trolley handle popped up and destroyed itself when it tumbled down the road. At least I don't have pop up trolley handle issue anymore because it's not there anymore haha.
Anyways, let me sum up by saying you're a great rider, and definitely much better than I am! As I was writing out my essay, I was thinking of maybe making my own video to address these points.. Hmm.
Thanks again for the video!
Hey :) thank for your comment. While in the air, the wheel is not meant to freespin a lot (if it does it means the rider has bad form), so to me it's just a matter of power once the wheel hits the ground. If the ground is soft then it requires more power. And regarding the pads, indeed I don't say why they are good, but (spoiler) my next video will be about pads so I will address it there
@@chapeauxderoue343
My rebuttal against this is 1) What is good form so that the wheel isn't meant to free spin? Is the wheel supposed to straight up and down when you're jumping? If so, what is the difference between good jumping form vs a freespin wheel test people do?
My take is that the wheel software does not know the difference between jumping or freespin test, if there is no ground feedback ie keeping the wheel stationary, the wheel will automatically think it is falling head first (wheel going going forward) and spin.
When I've watched videos of people jumping, their landing always consists of rubber burning the ground or dirt spitting out the back. I reckon this is due to the wheel spinning up to max speed.
Again this is all speculation until we see the algorithm of the wheel, what parameters will cause it to spin, not spin, or shutdown (:
@@chapeauxderoue343 Great video guys i was thinking about buying the V14 as my first EUC but not i am not too sure. They say you should get the best EUC you can afford so i was looking at a higher end model. Is there another EUC you would recommend that is good with power ?
@@chapeauxderoue343 th-cam.com/video/pvbUMo4mPFM/w-d-xo.html apparently inmotion made this video saying its not the suspension but the slides and they show you how to fix it or make it better.
If you stay leveled the wheel will not freespin. Ruber burning on landing = bad form (=riders leans forward or backwards while in the air). I will do a video on this at some point
This is what I wanted for Unix's (V14) documentation video. I wanted a detailed explanation and video like this.
A professional explanation and detailed quality of the parts of the product, and the explanation of each situation that fits it....and also the parts that apply in real life...
This video and explanation made a lot of sense to me, and in many ways, helped me to understand the
V14 inmotion is helpful.
I think it's like the best and the most objective wheel rewiev i've ever seen on youtube, so pls don't stop making videos, i really do like ho you do it:D
🙏🙏
Im having all the same problems regarding suspension with the V14. it is true that the shock is unaligned with the linkage by factory. However, by Inmotion instruction, you need to remove the pedal hangers from the bottom beforehand to relieve tension. The topping out is probably due to the really stiff spring they chose to compensate for the lack of travel and weight of the wheel (Which basically allows no sag).
I honestly wish they went for a better geometry or higher travel design. it really lets it down compared to the likes of Extreme. My only gripe with the wheel so far though.
This was well done
As a commuter with that wheel 😅 I have to say that the wheel is amazing... I haven't gone to jumps in the forest yet. But I can relate to the quirks it is facing. I do agree with you: It is an amazing wheel with room for improvement. I am just addicted to the power of it. Even with the pedal dip on loose surfaces, it has not yet thrown me off!
I was thinking if buying the V14 for my frist EUC but still on the fence.
@@silverpro8356 I am not sure how good it will be as a first EUC as it is expensive and heavy at 40kg. But other than that, I don’t think you’ll find a better 16inch EUC, especially if Weather resistance is key and you want performance for the future 😅 just be sure to get the 50s model. I find it does still run at 50kph at less than 30% Battery. So easy. And I weigh 110kg with gear.
Cool review, thanks. I have v14 for this seson. If you want change shock you should unscrews pedals from sliders and You will have space...I know it's time consumption but You can do it without a hummer...thanks fot tip with 80 degrees angle!! I had clunk, I think like You. In my case I must screw very very hard 8 screws on the top of sliders on two clips.
A ton of good info..... thx a lot
I like french accent 😊
thanks for that hard test !
Witch next one ?
v11y ?
haha probably not, I rarely have wheels to test so I might not do another review before long
Merci beaucoup pour la video, j'étais surpris par le titre, mais finalement vous en dites quand même du bien. 😊
Je suis personnellement très content de cette roue, mais je n'ai absolument pas la meme utilisation.
Par contre j'ai remarqué également ce claquement à la détente, ca ne serait pas tout simplement au niveau des tubes?
Car il y a de quoi amortir en butée de compression, mais est-ce qu'il y a quelque chose pour amortir la détente max?
Edit: je viens de voir qu'il y a un caoutchouc au niveau des fixations des pédales, donc c'est etonnant, car le claquement est assez sec.
Et je suis daccord, l'amortisseur est un peu dur dorigine, mais pas non plus inconfortable, du moins pour mes 83kg.
Le moteur est assez gourmand, mais quel plaisir lors des accélérations !
Content que ta roue te plaise :) Oui c'est possible que ce soit la structure des tubes, quelque chose qui arrive en butée. En tout cas ça impacte beaucoup le ride dans les sections techniques, c'est embêtant.
Wheels bigest problems: stiff suspension and big bearings wich will suck water in
I also like the way you review. But I am a street-riding old fart who is interested in trails and mixing with city traffic. Do you do that, too, or am I in the wrong place?
Lee Jeffrey Martinez Steven Wilson Brian
You didnt even set up your settings on Extreme. Everything is adjustable. S22 riders are such a meme at this point.
Inmotional damage
OMG good review but the way you attacked the removal and installation of the shock shocked me. If you don’t ha the proper tools or training on the use of tools you probably should leave the job to someone with more mechanical skill😮
Don’t be shocked, swapping shocks should be shockingly easier than this
Pourquoi pas en français la vidéo
Could you tell me its weight? Thx.
I bet this goes something like "Only zee S twunty deus is dee good wheel, even though it breaks every time you ride it. You juss muss take with you zee extra muzzer board"
I wonder if the pedals were able to slide up and down so that the inside foot can slide up, away from the axle, toward the seat, to allow you angulate the wheel more, like a skier who weights his outside foot/ski in turns, while the inside foot is pulled in toward his body and unweighted.
I've ridden a OneWheel, but I haven't ridden an EUC, yet. I'm leaning toward the V14.
Good points, nice review. You're echoing a lot of the same sentiments that I feel with it. However I don't think I would place it above the Extreme any day. That's me personally with 1700 miles of trails and jumping on the extreme and just a small handful on the adventure. My mind is still not made up entirely ands I need to do some more trail riding. I think the extreme angle lips make the firmware lose it a little. That's where it had freaked me out and made me think twice about jumping it.
Beaucoup de travail pour cette vidéo donc merci beaucoup ! 💪💪
Toujours un plaisir d'écouter les ressentis de chacun pour se faire une idée.
Merci à toi 😊
Love the content keep it up dude
thanks !
The way you rolled out of the crash means you are a skater, bmxer or judo guy. Like me 😊
Great review and video. I ride an Adrams (I know - but it was so cheap) but I am saving for a lynx. €4000 is no joke.
The top out clunk is a lack of top out damping/bump stop at top out. I wonder if this is the shock or linkage design? Maybe a rubber stop in the right place could help if changing the shock doesn't fix it.
Yes someone's gotta try a custom linkage so we know
Vraiment une bonne petite review les gars!
Merci 👊👊
Good review 👍
Thanks :)
Great stuff! Have very similar experience with my V14 50S. Great wheel but there is some work to be done still
Thanks for the kind words !
good video
1:07 I think this is a 12 inch rim with a 16 inch tire, just like the V12. Those specs are available on multiple sites.
Guys, do you have the power assist on? I’m asking because three days ago I did a range test with the power assist off (pedal hardness 100%, of course), and the pedals were constantly flat. Today, I had the assist on (to check the braking distance) with 50% acceleration and 100% braking. I don’t understand the intention of this function, but basically, the wheel just tilts the pedal angle. During hard braking, having your heels down gives a nice feeling, but during acceleration, the pedals dipped and it felt uncomfortable and makes wobbles sometimes. Next time I need to try 0% for acceleration. In my opinion for jumping it should be just off.
Hey , no, no power assist, we had the pedals flat all the time
Did you back the preload all the way off to connect the linkage?
cool review, pour mon utilisation un peu plus casu, je suis super content de cette V14. toujours plein de puissance disponible quand tu en as besoin, par contre au dessus de 50km/h c'est presque 2% de batterie par 1km.
comme tu dis que l'amortisseur ne te convient pas mais qu'il est standard, es ce que tu comptes tenter un swap avec un amortisseur d'une qualité équivalente à ta S22 (pour la science :) ).
Merci ! Pour l'amortisseur j'aurais bien voulu mais depuis, je suis rentré en France et je n'ai plus la roue donc ça ne risque pas d'arriver de sitôt. Mais c'est certain qu'installer un bon amortisseur sur la V14 améliorerait sensiblement les performances en tout-terrain.
44 kg ? Pourquoi sur la fiche technique il affiche 40 kg ? Il ya 4 kg de pads ? 😅
J'ai commandé cette roue en 50s mais toujours pas de date de réception pour la france encore, ma vendeuse ali express m'a même proposé de changer ma commande pour une autre roue en insistant sur le fait que leaperkim font des roues de meilleure qualité avec un meilleur sav , qu'en penses tu ? Devrais je changer ma commande pour une Patton 50s par exemple ?
Ce serais ma deuxième roue , je roule avec une vieille Z10 qui a bientôt 8000kms.
Oui les fairings & les pads ajoutent du poids, c'est aussi pourquoi je conseille de mettre le velcro directement sur les packs batterie. Entre la Patton et la V14, ne réfléchis même pas, reste sur la V14. D'ailleurs le SAV dépend de ton vendeur, pas du constructeur (mais certains vendeurs sur Aliexpress pipotent pas mal avec ça)
@@chapeauxderoue343 merci beaucoup d'avoir éclairé ma lanterne chapeaux , j'attends cette v14 avec impatience ! Bon ride !
Je suis également étonné par le poids, je la pèserai ce soir avec les pads d'origine par curiosité.
Pour ma 50s entièrement d'origine avec les pads fournis, ça me donne 42,2kg, je crois que les 40kg annoncés sont sans pads et sans béquille.
Je suis surpris pour l amortisseur c'est pourtant le même que chez leaperkim
Ah non, pas du tout
Ahah, pour avoir une v14 et une Sherman S (même type d'amortisseur que la Lynx ou Patton), les 2 n'ont rien à voir, c'est juste fastace qui les fabrique, mais ce sont 2 systèmes totalement différents.
OK merci pour les précisons