Dang awesome production quality Jono!! I've really enjoyed your videos, they're always super informative and well thought out. I thought your tire comparison video was awesome, somehow this video is even better! Keep making this great content - we APPRECIATE you!! I'm a Begode fanboy too, but man the Lynx sure is a great wheel. Your enthusiasm is infectious!
Outstanding video... so much useful information derived from practical experience... thanks for taking the time to make it... your efforts are most definitely appreciated 🥰
Great Video Jono. Thank you. WATT-HOURS really don't mean much. It is AMP-HOURS that tell how far you can go on a charged battery. Somehow, we need to get wheel manufacturers to tell us the AMP-HOURS we are buying without the WATT-HOUR/VOLT camouflage disguising the really important info of "AMP-HOURS." I have a Patton and a Sherman-S. With the Patton, I full-charge, ride gentle for 4-to-5-miles, keep it under 33-mph and then I get a 40-mile ride before low battery beeps. With the Sherman-S, I full-charge, ride as fast as I want from the start, keep High-Speed-Mode "off" (so 42-mph), and get 57-to-60-miles before low battery beeps. ... The WATT-HOUR and VOLTS announced for each wheel do "not" tell you what you need to know about a wheel's range. ... It is AMP-HOURS that matter. All Wheels: WATT-HOURS divided by VOLTS equals AMP-HOURS. Patton: 2200-WATT-HOURS divided by 126-VOLTS equals 17.46-AMP-HOURS. Lynx: 2700-WATT-HOURS divided by 151-VOLTS equals 17.88-AMP-HOURS. Sherman-S: 3600-WATT-HOURS divided by 100-VOLTS equals 36-AMP-HOURS. The Sherman-S has double the AMP-HOURS of either the Patton or the Lynx. If you like to cruise for hours at a time, and I do, the Sherman-S is your wheel. If you don't ride too far and want quick responsive torque and have about $3000(US) then the Patton is a good choice. If you don't ride too far and want quick responsive torque and have about $4000(US) then the Lynx is a better choice. ... Everyone. Ride well. Good journeys to all. ... NOTE: I am a 90-kilo/200-pound rider.
hey mate, nice post cheers. Much to consider I thought they both represented the battery capacity. this seems to be a blindspot in the euc community. I was wondering why the patton range is similar to the Lynx. ta jono
1600 miles on my lynx so far with the stock street tire. Best upgrade was the pedal lowering kit from ewheels. I'm ready to change my tire, and looking at getting the bespoke TNT tire that now come stock on the street model from ewheels. Thank you for this comprehensive review, my friend. Cheers and stay safe out there. Happy shredding!!
Thank you for priducing this video. I really appreciated how you incorporated video clips from the Citynerd, & not just bikes channel showing alternatives to a car dependent lifestyle. Cars are really disgusting expensive & financially unsustainable. So, bringing these kinds of issues up provides a greater importance to justifying daily PEV usage for transportation, commuting, & daily recreational going places. I hope you bring up these topics as a stance & talking point to the carbrained politicians that are reciving campaign donations from petroleum companies. I am in the US, and unfortunately the ignorance greed, & collective stupidity still flies high, we still use imperial standards, I'll leave it at that. But do bring up these topics more it's important for people in Australia, US, & rest of the world to see this. Also for some reason I thought you were based in NZ. Anyway, Great video, looking forward to more!
Thanks for this great review! Coming from S22 Pro with 3500km., done 1400km. on my Lynx, still can't beat S22 suspension feel and off road steep hill climbing power. And this damn thing can't make turns! Every time I have to turn left or right, must slow down and push hard and careful, very different from S22. Maybe it's me, my weight is only 70kg. so it's a factor and I need more time, we'll see. Anyway, keep up great work and happy riding! 😇
I got the same feeling coming from my S22 (not pro). Still can’t figure out if I’m going to keep my Lynx. I weigh 67kg btw. One thing is for sure though, the power of the Lynx is far superior.
Came from the s22 and put over 14,000km on my s22 before it died.... I can say after 2000km on the lynx its way better in every way compared to the s22.. Lynx has far more power than the s22. Im 80kg btw, It took me about 1000km to dial the Lynx in to the way I like it.. but the lynx is a far superior wheel compared the s22. Also running the shinko 244 on the lynx and had it on my s22, amazing tire btw. :)
Excellent job, Jono. Patton person here and I use it for mostly off-road. Had the Lynx been available at the time, I would have gotten it. Having ridden my Master (non-Pro) off-road before the Patton, I can say that the larger diameter tire traverses obstacles better and gives a smoother ride.
So the thing you said about lower psi rounding the wheel doesn't make sense to me. Surely lower psi would cause the tire to flatten on the surface and which would also mean when you lean it to a certain point it will suddenly tip as it hits the slope (which we saw in the video). I run my lynx higher psi for the same reason you run yours low. I wonder who has it right? Great review none the less.
You make a good point. Too bad the k262 isn't on my lynx to test again. What I think is happening is that the knife edge center tread pattern flattens out making the transition to the next row of tread less aggressive. However! with the shinko 241 it DOES round out more with higher psi. The difference is that it's a softer rubber and already a rounder profile. So it needs the pressure to hold the shape otherwise the softer rubber collapses. hope some of that makes sense. ta jono
Thank you Jon! Another great, useful and informative video! I know that it's already long, but still you've put so much information that I would like to have some sections a bit more detailed, for example "voltage adjustment on the wheel after measure it from batteries". This section I needed to slow down and rewatch couple of times. Will try to do my adjustment, but it's not clear to me why you have 0.4 value as the difference is 1.4V. Maybe it would be good to put separate shorten videos for some specific sections with more details ;) it would be really useful.
Were you able to calibrate your wheel voltage? haha yeah I moved through things fairly quickly so as not to bog down the video but definitely get where you're coming from. Hopefully it was enough info help you out.
@@jonoeuc Not yet, will do it during my cover (buttons) replacement. Not sure when it will happen :) so any additional advice will be more than welcome. Thank you!
Awesome video 🤙🏼 Had a good day when we were on those Mtb tracks I did really love the lynx when I tried yours And I'll probably be putting that tyre on my s22👌🏼 Keep up the good work 👍
ohh hey! I didn't realise this was your account until now. Those adventures were epic and great filming too, stoked to get some of the footage into the video! hope to catch up for an adventure soon.
I'm at 1500km on the Lynx and ran into the same issue as you three weeks ago in rainy conditions with the Kenda... Wiped out sideways in a turn, and I was very surprised, took that turn countless times before with my CST street tire RS, no problem.. Anyway, I'll be moving on to the Shinko before the winter, a friend has it on his Lynx and it is much better. Cheers
it really shook my confidence not sure about you. definitely a good reason for a tyre change. I heard the 244 is a harder compound than the 241 but the rounder pattern should handle it a bit better anyway. Since i reckon the transition between the tread rows is a massive loss in traction.
@@jonoeuc I finally installed the Shinko 244 and the installation was actually pretty easy and I have definitely noticed a lower propensity for wobbles at high speed on the asphalt and I have absolutely noticed better traction going around corners in the dirt. It is definitely a better tire and I am quite happy with it. It is absolutely smooth on the asphalt and I do not feel any edges from riding on the centerline or off of the centerline.
I lowered my pedals and have no issues offroading. I definitely removed that nasty kickstand because it will catch on things and it will also reach out and bite you if you have a minor crash. I got my toe pads from EUC clubhouse and they are great. I'm at 1500 miles and I've had zero issues. Definitely interested in a better tire. Maybe the Shinko 244. It's the funnest damn toy I've ever had in my life. I've only been riding for about six months now and I'm 59 years old so I keep my speeds under 35 mph.
Very good review, i still have my SS with just over 7500 miles. love its range and planted stable speeds. i wish its weight was like the patton but i've gotten used to it. I would love to go up steep hills faster but with only a 100v i don't want to overpower it and blow the 30amp breakers. Someone said i could up the breaker to a 50amp but i need to find out just how safe that would be to do. THANKS AGAIN JON 🙂
Thanks for detailed review. Do you happen to have a link to the 3D file that covers the front hole, when the toe bits are removed? (Where you used silicone)
I think your inside toe pressure is making your wheel wobble on turns....bring a little bit more pressure on inside heel. Excellent video, great human you are!
i do ride on my toes. however i've been learning to create diagonal pressure with toe pressure on one side and heel on the other. I'm skeptical to weight the inside heel but I guess I could try it.
@@jonoeuc The formula is as follows for forward riding. If you are turning right you will want to balance pressure between inside heel and outside toe. If you are decelerating or accelerating backward and turning you will want the opposite...pressure on inside toe and outside heel. In euc's there is carving and there is slicing. Carving is like chooch rides ...almost always holding a slight turning. Slicing is when we find a neutrality in our riding and we can place our wheel on the road exactly where we wish to go....as precisely as pebbles on the taramak, being able to choose when riding on the paint lines: center, left or right as we choose. When we slice, the introduction begins with the movement at the ankles between the feet and the rest of the body. This is done by with flexion and extension of the ankle. Very often here people describe on eucs that we push into the pedals to accelerate, and push into the heels to decelerate...and this in practise can form counter forces that do not let the wheel perform as easily as it should. Think of the most simple robot that could ride an euc.. Feet that stand on an euc that just has straight legs that are connected to a robot pelvis . When the pelvis of this robot go forward dorsal flexion in its feet occurs so that the angle between the legs of the robot and its feet become more acute (less than 90 degrees). This happens by the toes coming into the shins. To accelerate heels press into the pedals to initiate pelvis to go forward. To decelerate the toes press into the pedals to bring hips backward. If we feel high pressure points on any parts of the pedal, very likely there will be an opportunity for us to become more efficient with our technique. Acceleration is determined by the angle created between the unicycle cm, our center of mass, and the earth we ride on.
not at all. Don't get me wrong, I love the sherman L announcement. It would be a luxury since id rarely use it, only rarely for the range. perfect if you're heavier rider that wants to cruise further. Cheers
I got my toe pads from EUC clubhouse. Check them out, not very expensive and top-notch. Not gonna have any issues with that slip on cover that you were talking about about
the idea of cornering fast and popping or burping the bead is a concerning thought too! I made a correction to the inner tube size. the default is 2.5/2.75-14 not 3x18"
My patton has the same "vibration" at 37mph. I believe it is the FOC or Field weakening taking effect. The controller has to switch from sine wave to square wave. Similar to how dualtron scooters feel grainy compared to other scooters using sine wave. If you try a patton you will feel it from 36-37mmph regardless of tire. ***I could be wrong, it just felt so familar since I have built ebikes using square and sine wave controllers***
true, I love the simplicity. no brake lines, discs or drums, wheel alignment, window wipers! well.. you know haha. In my use 2/3wheels broke down but my old car went 10years 100,000km without a breakdown so just anecdotal experience there.
7:29 Where is the compression adjuster? I can see the large gold preload hex head adjuster, and the screw driver rebound adjuster in the middle, but where is the compression damping adjuster? Also, why do you need more than 20% sag? If the wheel has 90 mm of suspension travel, 20% = 18mm of sag which leaves only 72mm of usable travel. And that's not taking static sag into account, so it's probable even less.
Hi, about 48:54 - Torque Spec Would you use the same specs for the Patton ? Thanks ! (It will soon be my first time disassembling a wheel. Tire needs changing ! )
Hey Guillaume, yes it should be reasonable to copy those. For bolts that are the same size but different torques, it is based on the thread it's going into. So for thinner shallower holes use the lower bolt torque value.
thanks mate, I've been using it since release and enjoy it. running 62% pedals and 75% acceleration assist currently. I'll possibly bundle it in a 'Lynx news and updates video'
Jono, my Extreme hasn't arrived yet, and I'm already considering the purchase of a Lynx. My understanding is the Linx uses lightweight alloy which reduced the weight. Do you happen to know which parts are using the lighter metal? Awesome video.
This is a great video , as usual. Am a bit confused on your tyre choice though. You say you prefer the shinko but are using the Michelin? Is there any other competition to the michelin as a pure street/ wet weather tyre? Also I would recommend upgrading from the dual axis leatt to leatt z or c frames. I found a pair of c frames at a great price and recommend, as someone who has injured both knees. When I was changing the pedal hangers to the lowering kit. One of the axel securing screws bolt holes double threaded. Was fixable after being retapped. The original hangers are very soft and something to be careful of.
At 170lbs, i feel the Lynx may still be too heavy for me. If they can update the Sherman S with progressive springs and the magnesium alloy construction from the Lynx to get it down to 75-80 lbs, that'd be amazing.
@@vasilelupu9997 Okay, then maybe a lightweight version of the Patton then which weighs the same as the Lynx. Shave off ~8 pounds by using magnesium alloy construction, a smaller wheel, and a smaller version of the Lynx motor.
A lighter Patton is most likey in the works, but the Lynx is great tbh I weigh about the same as you, between 170-175, and you don't feel the weight of this wheel when you ride it at all.. It is very agile/nimble for its size, and I came from a Begode RS to give you an idea.. Only problem is if you have stairs that are too slippery to push it up (I do), but it's a decent workout 🤣
Hi, I am 165lbs fully geared. The Lynx is NO PROBLEM to ride. I have ZERO concerns about the weight. I can maneuver the wheel slowly through tight areas and pedestrians and I have no issues. I can also hold 70+ kmh with no wobbles or issues. Your weight is completely fine for the Lynx. Get it!
@@johnshopkins4786 thx for your input. 70kmh is exactly the type of speed i need and also the ability to go slow among pedestrians. I'm coming from a Kingsong 14D, so that's why im weary of heavy wheels.
Most important bit to me was that you had to stop using eucworld with this wheel. I just received my lynx, and have now had 4 safety margin warnings when set to 20% in eucworld. In each of those margin warnings, i wasn't pushing the lynx nearly as hard as my cp50s, which never got near the 20% safety margin, no matter how hard i pushed it (fast steep hill climbs etc). Time to use LK app for this wheel 👊
awesome, happy to help. to add a bit more info, I set the eucworld safety margin correction factor to maybe -15% when i was still using it. Since the Lynx has PWM safety margin it also gave me confidence to ditch the app. I set it to 85%.
The Sherman L is coming! It's realistically a Sherman S Pro 4000Wh battery at 151.2V. It's still 46.5kg and I reckon i'd feel that the same as the sherman s. it seems safe to say I prefer the extra fun 0-55kmh range of the lynx than the stable cruising +55kmh of heavier wheels. at least until i try it. They've been tweaking the firmware with features but that went out to all their wheels.
my lynx looks the same as yours as i copied it lol...we have same taste...i have no seat and a lowered pedals which i loved...i also removed kickstand as it is a little dangerous in crashes and i removed front bumpers completely
haha very nice! I have been wondering how much those add to the Lynx chassis stiffness. Do you notice anymore flex in the frame since taking them off? You have to try seated riding if you haven't learned yet!
Hi Jono Alex from Sydney here. Just wondering where I could find the chart showing the battery state of charge based on the voltage reading which you displayed in your video at Minute 19.58?
Hey Pawel, here are my order details: FO25193001S-M Fox Titan Pro D3O Black CE Elbow Guards - S/M Flexmeter Double-Sided Wrist Guards D3O for Onewheel™ M / Black Mine just touch but it's not binding or causing problems. An important measurement is my forearm length which is about 30cm (12") 'How to measure forearm' i.imgur.com/6DNVKu8.png
Love it. two issues are that it's very pressure sensitive so I have to check at least once a week. Even 31psi from 29psi made a big difference to round it out and make it more linear. I've had some oh shit moments cornering as the tyre transitions between the center and next line of knobs! checkout the tire comparison video for more details.
depends on the tyre. I'd suggest starting around: Kenda k262: 27psi (24psi) Michelin pilot street 2 33psi (30psi) Shinko 241 33psi (30psi) So I just added 3psi over my values which are in brackets (x)
One of the best reviews ive seen in a while
Man, you're editing is magnificent. Whether I'm watching or just listening it all just goes together so well. Well keep up the great content
Nice review ! Thank you. Have og patch v3 sherman. 17k km and been looking new wheel. Been looking s and lynx, and after this review i ordered lynx. ❤
Very good review. Really in-depth and informative. Makes me feel better about my new Lynx. Thank you!
Dang awesome production quality Jono!! I've really enjoyed your videos, they're always super informative and well thought out. I thought your tire comparison video was awesome, somehow this video is even better! Keep making this great content - we APPRECIATE you!! I'm a Begode fanboy too, but man the Lynx sure is a great wheel. Your enthusiasm is infectious!
Cheers! happy to hear
I'd like to cover other wheels but it's just not possible atm.
Outstanding video... so much useful information derived from practical experience... thanks for taking the time to make it... your efforts are most definitely appreciated 🥰
Outstanding work!, thanks a lot for the subjective, objective and technical information from your experience with the wheel, very helpful
Great Video Jono. Thank you.
WATT-HOURS really don't mean much. It is AMP-HOURS that tell how far you can go on a charged battery. Somehow, we need to get wheel manufacturers to tell us the AMP-HOURS we are buying without the WATT-HOUR/VOLT camouflage disguising the really important info of "AMP-HOURS."
I have a Patton and a Sherman-S. With the Patton, I full-charge, ride gentle for 4-to-5-miles, keep it under 33-mph and then I get a 40-mile ride before low battery beeps. With the Sherman-S, I full-charge, ride as fast as I want from the start, keep High-Speed-Mode "off" (so 42-mph), and get 57-to-60-miles before low battery beeps. ... The WATT-HOUR and VOLTS announced for each wheel do "not" tell you what you need to know about a wheel's range. ... It is AMP-HOURS that matter.
All Wheels: WATT-HOURS divided by VOLTS equals AMP-HOURS.
Patton: 2200-WATT-HOURS divided by 126-VOLTS equals 17.46-AMP-HOURS.
Lynx: 2700-WATT-HOURS divided by 151-VOLTS equals 17.88-AMP-HOURS.
Sherman-S: 3600-WATT-HOURS divided by 100-VOLTS equals 36-AMP-HOURS.
The Sherman-S has double the AMP-HOURS of either the Patton or the Lynx. If you like to cruise for hours at a time, and I do, the Sherman-S is your wheel. If you don't ride too far and want quick responsive torque and have about $3000(US) then the Patton is a good choice. If you don't ride too far and want quick responsive torque and have about $4000(US) then the Lynx is a better choice.
... Everyone. Ride well. Good journeys to all.
... NOTE: I am a 90-kilo/200-pound rider.
hey mate, nice post cheers. Much to consider I thought they both represented the battery capacity. this seems to be a blindspot in the euc community. I was wondering why the patton range is similar to the Lynx.
ta jono
best review I have ever seen of any product
much appreciated thanks mate
1600 miles on my lynx so far with the stock street tire. Best upgrade was the pedal lowering kit from ewheels. I'm ready to change my tire, and looking at getting the bespoke TNT tire that now come stock on the street model from ewheels.
Thank you for this comprehensive review, my friend. Cheers and stay safe out there. Happy shredding!!
Thank you for priducing this video. I really appreciated how you incorporated video clips from the Citynerd, & not just bikes channel showing alternatives to a car dependent lifestyle. Cars are really disgusting expensive & financially unsustainable. So, bringing these kinds of issues up provides a greater importance to justifying daily PEV usage for transportation, commuting, & daily recreational going places.
I hope you bring up these topics as a stance & talking point to the carbrained politicians that are reciving campaign donations from petroleum companies.
I am in the US, and unfortunately the ignorance greed, & collective stupidity still flies high, we still use imperial standards, I'll leave it at that.
But do bring up these topics more it's important for people in Australia, US, & rest of the world to see this. Also for some reason I thought you were based in NZ. Anyway, Great video, looking forward to more!
Thanks for this great review! Coming from S22 Pro with 3500km., done 1400km. on my Lynx, still can't beat S22 suspension feel and off road steep hill climbing power. And this damn thing can't make turns! Every time I have to turn left or right, must slow down and push hard and careful, very different from S22. Maybe it's me, my weight is only 70kg. so it's a factor and I need more time, we'll see. Anyway, keep up great work and happy riding! 😇
I got the same feeling coming from my S22 (not pro). Still can’t figure out if I’m going to keep my Lynx. I weigh 67kg btw.
One thing is for sure though, the power of the Lynx is far superior.
Came from the s22 and put over 14,000km on my s22 before it died.... I can say after 2000km on the lynx its way better in every way compared to the s22.. Lynx has far more power than the s22. Im 80kg btw, It took me about 1000km to dial the Lynx in to the way I like it.. but the lynx is a far superior wheel compared the s22. Also running the shinko 244 on the lynx and had it on my s22, amazing tire btw. :)
It's all about the tire you're using. Switch it for a hybrid
did you get used to it after all?
@@Happyantix112 After 2700km. on Lynx now still learning, but way better than before! 😇
Excellent job, Jono. Patton person here and I use it for mostly off-road. Had the Lynx been available at the time, I would have gotten it. Having ridden my Master (non-Pro) off-road before the Patton, I can say that the larger diameter tire traverses obstacles better and gives a smoother ride.
cheers arevee, good to know. someone else mentioned that about the smoother rolling larger tyre. seems to be a bigger deal than i would guess.
ta
What an awesome review! Great job!
So the thing you said about lower psi rounding the wheel doesn't make sense to me. Surely lower psi would cause the tire to flatten on the surface and which would also mean when you lean it to a certain point it will suddenly tip as it hits the slope (which we saw in the video). I run my lynx higher psi for the same reason you run yours low. I wonder who has it right? Great review none the less.
You make a good point. Too bad the k262 isn't on my lynx to test again.
What I think is happening is that the knife edge center tread pattern flattens out making the transition to the next row of tread less aggressive.
However! with the shinko 241 it DOES round out more with higher psi. The difference is that it's a softer rubber and already a rounder profile. So it needs the pressure to hold the shape otherwise the softer rubber collapses.
hope some of that makes sense.
ta jono
Good job Jono. Looks like a mountain of work you did , collecting all that footage and editing.
thanks JW, yeah it took it out of me thus why I went away for awhile haha
hope you're keeping well
Tilting the wheel while trolleying is the best option to trolleyride it effortlessly with just two fingers. Everyone should try that style.
Thank you Jon! Another great, useful and informative video!
I know that it's already long, but still you've put so much information that I would like to have some sections a bit more detailed, for example "voltage adjustment on the wheel after measure it from batteries". This section I needed to slow down and rewatch couple of times. Will try to do my adjustment, but it's not clear to me why you have 0.4 value as the difference is 1.4V.
Maybe it would be good to put separate shorten videos for some specific sections with more details ;) it would be really useful.
Were you able to calibrate your wheel voltage?
haha yeah I moved through things fairly quickly so as not to bog down the video but definitely get where you're coming from. Hopefully it was enough info help you out.
@@jonoeuc Not yet, will do it during my cover (buttons) replacement. Not sure when it will happen :) so any additional advice will be more than welcome. Thank you!
Awesome video 🤙🏼
Had a good day when we were on those Mtb tracks
I did really love the lynx when I tried yours
And I'll probably be putting that tyre on my s22👌🏼
Keep up the good work 👍
ohh hey! I didn't realise this was your account until now. Those adventures were epic and great filming too, stoked to get some of the footage into the video!
hope to catch up for an adventure soon.
I'm at 1500km on the Lynx and ran into the same issue as you three weeks ago in rainy conditions with the Kenda...
Wiped out sideways in a turn, and I was very surprised, took that turn countless times before with my CST street tire RS, no problem..
Anyway, I'll be moving on to the Shinko before the winter, a friend has it on his Lynx and it is much better.
Cheers
Shinko 244?
@@boblatkey7160 yes
it really shook my confidence not sure about you. definitely a good reason for a tyre change. I heard the 244 is a harder compound than the 241 but the rounder pattern should handle it a bit better anyway. Since i reckon the transition between the tread rows is a massive loss in traction.
@@jonoeuc I finally installed the Shinko 244 and the installation was actually pretty easy and I have definitely noticed a lower propensity for wobbles at high speed on the asphalt and I have absolutely noticed better traction going around corners in the dirt. It is definitely a better tire and I am quite happy with it. It is absolutely smooth on the asphalt and I do not feel any edges from riding on the centerline or off of the centerline.
@@boblatkey7160 Sorry for the late response Bob, yes it is the 244 my friend installed, great tire, much better than the kenda.. just hard to find...
Very thorough review 👍
I lowered my pedals and have no issues offroading. I definitely removed that nasty kickstand because it will catch on things and it will also reach out and bite you if you have a minor crash. I got my toe pads from EUC clubhouse and they are great. I'm at 1500 miles and I've had zero issues. Definitely interested in a better tire. Maybe the Shinko 244. It's the funnest damn toy I've ever had in my life. I've only been riding for about six months now and I'm 59 years old so I keep my speeds under 35 mph.
yeah i don't see a need to ride fast unless I'm forced to ride at car speeds on dangerous roads without shoulders.
awesome, happy to hear it, enjoy!
Very good review, i still have my SS with just over 7500 miles. love its range and planted stable speeds. i wish its weight was like the patton but i've gotten used to it. I would love to go up steep hills faster but with only a 100v i don't want to overpower it and blow the 30amp breakers. Someone said i could up the breaker to a 50amp but i need to find out just how safe that would be to do. THANKS AGAIN JON 🙂
Can't choose between Veteran Lynx or Begode Blitz!!
Awesome review!
Thanks for detailed review. Do you happen to have a link to the 3D file that covers the front hole, when the toe bits are removed? (Where you used silicone)
I bought really nice tow pads from EUC Clubhouse
not a problem, here is one. It has figurines but that's optional.
www.printables.com/model/943520-leaperkim-lynx-buds/files
I think your inside toe pressure is making your wheel wobble on turns....bring a little bit more pressure on inside heel. Excellent video, great human you are!
i do ride on my toes. however i've been learning to create diagonal pressure with toe pressure on one side and heel on the other.
I'm skeptical to weight the inside heel but I guess I could try it.
@@jonoeuc The formula is as follows for forward riding. If you are turning right you will want to balance pressure between inside heel and outside toe. If you are decelerating or accelerating backward and turning you will want the opposite...pressure on inside toe and outside heel.
In euc's there is carving and there is slicing. Carving is like chooch rides ...almost always holding a slight turning. Slicing is when we find a neutrality in our riding and we can place our wheel on the road exactly where we wish to go....as precisely as pebbles on the taramak, being able to choose when riding on the paint lines: center, left or right as we choose.
When we slice, the introduction begins with the movement at the ankles between the feet and the rest of the body. This is done by with flexion and extension of the ankle. Very often here people describe on eucs that we push into the pedals to accelerate, and push into the heels to decelerate...and this in practise can form counter forces that do not let the wheel perform as easily as it should.
Think of the most simple robot that could ride an euc.. Feet that stand on an euc that just has straight legs that are connected to a robot pelvis . When the pelvis of this robot go forward dorsal flexion in its feet occurs so that the angle between the legs of the robot and its feet become more acute (less than 90 degrees). This happens by the toes coming into the shins.
To accelerate heels press into the pedals to initiate pelvis to go forward. To decelerate the toes press into the pedals to bring hips backward. If we feel high pressure points on any parts of the pedal, very likely there will be an opportunity for us to become more efficient with our technique. Acceleration is determined by the angle created between the unicycle cm, our center of mass, and the earth we ride on.
Excellent review Jono, very comprehensive like an engineer would do. I learned a lot, appreciated.
6 pac Gord
Cheers 6pac, I'm a structural engineer so i'm busted haha.
@@jonoeuc Well done Jono!
well done detailed review
Thanks for your awesome review! Do you consider buying Sherman L? Especially from the first batch?
not at all. Don't get me wrong, I love the sherman L announcement. It would be a luxury since id rarely use it, only rarely for the range.
perfect if you're heavier rider that wants to cruise further.
Cheers
Be careful with the toe pad I have a slip-on cover but the whole thing fell off because the hard rubber stock piece came unglued from the plastic
I got my toe pads from EUC clubhouse. Check them out, not very expensive and top-notch. Not gonna have any issues with that slip on cover that you were talking about about
Another awesome video. Very detailed analysis ❤ are you running the shinko tubeless or what type of tire tube did you use? Thanks a bunch ❤
cheers mate, just the stock 2.5/2.75-14 inner tube on the shinko 241. I wanted to try tubeless but I didn't have the tubeless valve for it.
@jonoeuc yea tubeless definitely better, but sometimes in offloading, the tire bead can pop out if place and deflate the tire.
the idea of cornering fast and popping or burping the bead is a concerning thought too!
I made a correction to the inner tube size. the default is 2.5/2.75-14 not 3x18"
@@jonoeuc that you jono, you are the man.
My patton has the same "vibration" at 37mph. I believe it is the FOC or Field weakening taking effect. The controller has to switch from sine wave to square wave. Similar to how dualtron scooters feel grainy compared to other scooters using sine wave.
If you try a patton you will feel it from 36-37mmph regardless of tire. ***I could be wrong, it just felt so familar since I have built ebikes using square and sine wave controllers***
Yes , this is my assumption too. It's a bit unsettling while going that fast, but so far so good 😅
excellent, thanks for putting that out there. will do next time I get on a patton.
I would say an Euc is more reliable than a car. Fewer things go wrong.
true, I love the simplicity. no brake lines, discs or drums, wheel alignment, window wipers! well.. you know haha.
In my use 2/3wheels broke down but my old car went 10years 100,000km without a breakdown so just anecdotal experience there.
7:29 Where is the compression adjuster? I can see the large gold preload hex head adjuster, and the screw driver rebound adjuster in the middle, but where is the compression damping adjuster?
Also, why do you need more than 20% sag? If the wheel has 90 mm of suspension travel, 20% = 18mm of sag which leaves only 72mm of usable travel. And that's not taking static sag into account, so it's probable even less.
Hi, about
48:54 - Torque Spec
Would you use the same specs for the Patton ?
Thanks ! (It will soon be my first time disassembling a wheel. Tire needs changing ! )
Hey Guillaume, yes it should be reasonable to copy those. For bolts that are the same size but different torques, it is based on the thread it's going into. So for thinner shallower holes use the lower bolt torque value.
why is there a turkey or peacock walking around the beach at 41:50, is this normal in AUS?
haha
that's a bush turkey, a protected indigenous species here. Quite common to see out and about, darting in front of the wheel when riding!
Nice Review… Have you tried the New Update so far for the lynx? Firmware 005.0.011. If so can you also share us a review on it. Thank You.😊
thanks mate, I've been using it since release and enjoy it. running 62% pedals and 75% acceleration assist currently.
I'll possibly bundle it in a 'Lynx news and updates video'
Thanks Mate☺️🙌
Jono, my Extreme hasn't arrived yet, and I'm already considering the purchase of a Lynx. My understanding is the Linx uses lightweight alloy which reduced the weight. Do you happen to know which parts are using the lighter metal? Awesome video.
This is a great video , as usual. Am a bit confused on your tyre choice though. You say you prefer the shinko but are using the Michelin? Is there any other competition to the michelin as a pure street/ wet weather tyre?
Also I would recommend upgrading from the dual axis leatt to leatt z or c frames. I found a pair of c frames at a great price and recommend, as someone who has injured both knees.
When I was changing the pedal hangers to the lowering kit. One of the axel securing screws bolt holes double threaded. Was fixable after being retapped. The original hangers are very soft and something to be careful of.
At 170lbs, i feel the Lynx may still be too heavy for me. If they can update the Sherman S with progressive springs and the magnesium alloy construction from the Lynx to get it down to 75-80 lbs, that'd be amazing.
Thats an almost impossibly low weight, don’t think that will happen anytime soon.
@@vasilelupu9997 Okay, then maybe a lightweight version of the Patton then which weighs the same as the Lynx. Shave off ~8 pounds by using magnesium alloy construction, a smaller wheel, and a smaller version of the Lynx motor.
A lighter Patton is most likey in the works, but the Lynx is great tbh
I weigh about the same as you, between 170-175, and you don't feel the weight of this wheel when you ride it at all..
It is very agile/nimble for its size, and I came from a Begode RS to give you an idea..
Only problem is if you have stairs that are too slippery to push it up (I do), but it's a decent workout 🤣
Hi, I am 165lbs fully geared. The Lynx is NO PROBLEM to ride. I have ZERO concerns about the weight. I can maneuver the wheel slowly through tight areas and pedestrians and I have no issues. I can also hold 70+ kmh with no wobbles or issues.
Your weight is completely fine for the Lynx. Get it!
@@johnshopkins4786 thx for your input. 70kmh is exactly the type of speed i need and also the ability to go slow among pedestrians. I'm coming from a Kingsong 14D, so that's why im weary of heavy wheels.
how is your mod to pedals? Do you know if it holds up?
Most important bit to me was that you had to stop using eucworld with this wheel.
I just received my lynx, and have now had 4 safety margin warnings when set to 20% in eucworld.
In each of those margin warnings, i wasn't pushing the lynx nearly as hard as my cp50s, which never got near the 20% safety margin, no matter how hard i pushed it (fast steep hill climbs etc).
Time to use LK app for this wheel 👊
awesome, happy to help. to add a bit more info, I set the eucworld safety margin correction factor to maybe -15% when i was still using it.
Since the Lynx has PWM safety margin it also gave me confidence to ditch the app. I set it to 85%.
So, where does leaperkim go from here? I feel like the linx is the pinnacle of EUC's, what could they add to their next wheel?
The Sherman L is coming! It's realistically a Sherman S Pro 4000Wh battery at 151.2V.
It's still 46.5kg and I reckon i'd feel that the same as the sherman s. it seems safe to say I prefer the extra fun 0-55kmh range of the lynx than the stable cruising +55kmh of heavier wheels. at least until i try it.
They've been tweaking the firmware with features but that went out to all their wheels.
my lynx looks the same as yours as i copied it lol...we have same taste...i have no seat and a lowered pedals which i loved...i also removed kickstand as it is a little dangerous in crashes and i removed front bumpers completely
haha very nice! I have been wondering how much those add to the Lynx chassis stiffness. Do you notice anymore flex in the frame since taking them off?
You have to try seated riding if you haven't learned yet!
I just do it without seat mate... I'm 5'7" and lowered pedals... A seat would be up my bottom 😂... I don't feel any flex
Hi Jono
Alex from Sydney here.
Just wondering where I could find the chart showing the battery state of charge based on the voltage reading which you displayed in your video at Minute 19.58?
hey alex, I cannot find the original facebook post but here is my image. Credit @Anna Baranova
imgur.com/a/GuSHihM
@@jonoeuc Thank you so much. Enjoying all your videos 🙂.
I have e a lynx on preorder as my first wheel and can't wait to get started 🙂.
Jon, which size you are using for Fox Titan (elbow) and Flexmeters (wrist). Both of them are very long, and seems impossible to use them at once.
Hey Pawel, here are my order details:
FO25193001S-M Fox Titan Pro D3O Black CE Elbow Guards - S/M
Flexmeter Double-Sided Wrist Guards D3O for Onewheel™ M / Black
Mine just touch but it's not binding or causing problems.
An important measurement is my forearm length which is about 30cm (12")
'How to measure forearm' i.imgur.com/6DNVKu8.png
How are you liking your tire? And what will be your next tire? Thanks!
Love it. two issues are that it's very pressure sensitive so I have to check at least once a week. Even 31psi from 29psi made a big difference to round it out and make it more linear. I've had some oh shit moments cornering as the tyre transitions between the center and next line of knobs!
checkout the tire comparison video for more details.
Hi.. what psi would you recommend for 185lbs weight rider without gear?
depends on the tyre. I'd suggest starting around: Kenda k262: 27psi (24psi)
Michelin pilot street 2 33psi (30psi)
Shinko 241 33psi (30psi)
So I just added 3psi over my values which are in brackets (x)
On the acceleration and breaking test were both wheels on soft medium or strong? Thanks
Sherman S = Medium
Lynx = 52% pedal hardness. The Acceleration Assist firmware wasn't released yet.
How you keep your white pads clean?
Thx
👍🏽
Is it legal to ride these on the road in Australia?
WA and QLD are good to go but not sure about the other states. Some aren't afaik.
@@jonoeuc Good to go as in you just need a helmet and a car license?
I wish i had 4 grand lol
It's a pricey hobby for sure. keep your eyes peeled for second hand. however everyones enjoying the Lynx too much and very few are selling.