You are my favorite with mattbangwoods. I can’t help not to laugh at the notes on the envelope, that’s so funny and authentic, as long as it gets the job done 🤣🤣🤣. Thank you for your videos
I have a question, but first, I was taught that not only does the 1/2" plywood/OSB provide the extra thickness to make it 31/2" the plywood sandwiched in between also acts for structural stability against downforce especially over longer spans. What is your suggestion for long spans such as 10' or 12' for material to use in between the 2X12s?
The OSB/Plywood only adds thickness to the header itself so that it is the same thickness the rst of the studs/wall so the sheetrock lays flat when screwed to the wall. The 2x10 or 2x12 is what supplies the strength over the open span.
Use wood glue. Clamp tightly, checking for squareness. Fasteners should be in vertical alignment. Forces act at the top and bottom of beams. This V pattern thing is folklore. For headers over 36 inches or so use bolts, or the equivalent modern structural screws (FastenMaster, GRK, etc). If nailing, hand hammer (not nail gun). The goal is to get the pieces to compose a single moment and you can come close with attention to detail. No fasteners within 2 inches of end (to avoid splitting in shear area). And do not assemble and store. Build as needed and fasten into place to avoid twist and warp. Yeah sure, over a 32-inch window in a single story house not a big deal. But for larger openings and/or multiple stories you really need a header to perform.
@@NotAPanini everything he said is not correct. you don't use bolts or screws in a header. The nails provide better sheer strength. Bolts will be large and the head and excess threads and nut will stick out so then the sheetrock will have some weird box covering it.
Would two 2x6 headers stacked on top of each other be the same as a 2x12 header?Or would be like a 2x12 header with a split in the middle ? I’m trying to correct a problem done by a previous builder. Even though I have a support wall up I just don’t want to remove the header that is installed
No, that would not be a good idea. You want the header to act as a single, solid member. With an existing wall, build a temporary wall to bear the load properly, remove the old header, install the new header properly, remove the temporary wall
So for a 2x6 wall would I just use a second piece of filler strip and a third 2x12. I am installing a patio door on my trailer house, I see all the current windows have a single 2x6 for the headers seems wrong to me.
I don't see a 16 or 20ft span mentioned in the 2021 International Residential Code Book. For something that large you probably have to talk to an Engineer and have the header designed.
I'd like to make a box header out of 3/4" plywood as I could leave 1/2" in the middle for rigid insulation and then fill entire space from top of rough opening to top plate, eliminating short cripples. I'd have to stagger my breaks as plywood comes in 8' lengths and the header above the garage is 8' 6". Don't know if it would pass code or not. Be more expensive but would eliminate the bowing and seasonal movement of dimensional lumber.
Would 2.5" or 3" screws and Liquid Nail work okay? I know the nails would save time, but I'm only doing 2 headers and I don't have a serious nail gun....yet! lol
@@TheExcellentLaborer made my header today and it came out amazing! Used the w pattern and also a 5 row line 16” OC. I had to put one beam up at a time and then nail them together in place due to the LVL weight. They were 16’ long. Used three jacks and Simpson sraps to tie the double top plate, 10” header, and jacks
Me laborer dude let’s get real for the people out there no matter where they are. This year there was an increase in several places for the demand of electric space heaters with Texas being a great example. So happens the town I’m in sold completely out. First thing that comes to mind is “Oh dear goodness this town needs an energy audit badly!!!” That being said as soon as I ask most people what their energy rating is they don’t know what we’re talking about. I went to the hardware store and the lady there selling furnaces is asking the customers as they walk by “How’s your furnace” rudely most people reply some gruff way “It’s great” and I stopped and I told her “You’re asking me the wrong question, you should be asking me how energy efficient is my home and if I’ve had or want an energy audit. The best furnace in the world isn’t the best if the building is inefficient. Then in a problem even if you get it warm/cold will it hold it’s temperature. With rising costs of materials it’s not a bad idea to consider putting the money where it counts and into something you can get a guaranteed economic return on your investment. That way next time there’s a problem you’re comfortable. Upgrading with a retrofit or replacement window is a plus. Going to triple pane helps the economic return. Consider an energy audit and find out exactly where your house stands and how you can invest in your home to make it more energy efficient and also capture your “Economic Return”. Mr laborer dude can you explain for us what economic return is when we are talking about energy efficiency. Maybe explain how an energy audit can help us decide if we need an energy upgrade and not a furnace upgrade.
I'm replacing my dining room to garage door, whoever sold me the house put in a 24" interior door. I bought a 32" entrance door that's insulated as the garage isn't. All my heat is escaping out that door in the winter.
.. . . does math on envelope - hired. Excellent video!! The camera work makes me feel like I am actually doing the work myself - although you probably need a new phone every 6 months.
I would like to save a couple thousands on not buying custom windows without loosing the size. This leaves me with a small header opening. A little more than a 2x4 can fit in the gap. It’s no load bearing on a gable end. Is there a way to get around having to use a 2x6 as header? Different material? Like a metal beam?
Thanks Jason! I do that on some of my videos. I did siding and some framing with it. It does work good. I will try to get more footage with it. Thanks for watching!
Garage door header eaten by termites. The insects are gone as I had a liquid barrier put in however the damage is left behind. Looking over all these options as paying a contractor would cost several thousand dollars.
Seeing all your lumber and OSB laying outside... I don't know how wet it is around where you are, but how long can you leave a build and materials open to the elements? Cheers! 👍
Great information and very clearly explained. One suggestion, have someone do the videoing for you so it isn't so shaky and too close, but like I said, great video!!
So you biuld a header two times longer same way as you biuld a header for 36 in window opening. Now there's a question how competent that engineer who designed this house . By overbiulding those headers he created termal bridges which could be avoided
Most of the times wood is curved so I step on these and hit them with a hammer to get them straight you're creating pressure while stepping on them they won't move back and you nail it
You are my favorite with mattbangwoods. I can’t help not to laugh at the notes on the envelope, that’s so funny and authentic, as long as it gets the job done 🤣🤣🤣.
Thank you for your videos
"Let's look at the house plan" that was funny lmao
You should of called the envelope a blue print
That’s right 🤣
That got me that's what I've wrote so many last sec measurements on 😅
So true, the bill envelope for the materials purchased 😂
I appreciate junk mail for this reason
I have a question, but first, I was taught that not only does the 1/2" plywood/OSB provide the extra thickness to make it 31/2" the plywood sandwiched in between also acts for structural stability against downforce especially over longer spans. What is your suggestion for long spans such as 10' or 12' for material to use in between the 2X12s?
The OSB/Plywood only adds thickness to the header itself so that it is the same thickness the rst of the studs/wall so the sheetrock lays flat when screwed to the wall. The 2x10 or 2x12 is what supplies the strength over the open span.
Love the cut list! In Southern Alberta that would never hang around, saying that I hear wind in the background there as well.
Cut list helps keep me organized for sure! Yes it was windy here but had to keep laboring. No time to stall!
Use wood glue. Clamp tightly, checking for squareness. Fasteners should be in vertical alignment. Forces act at the top and bottom of beams. This V pattern thing is folklore. For headers over 36 inches or so use bolts, or the equivalent modern structural screws (FastenMaster, GRK, etc). If nailing, hand hammer (not nail gun). The goal is to get the pieces to compose a single moment and you can come close with attention to detail. No fasteners within 2 inches of end (to avoid splitting in shear area). And do not assemble and store. Build as needed and fasten into place to avoid twist and warp.
Yeah sure, over a 32-inch window in a single story house not a big deal. But for larger openings and/or multiple stories you really need a header to perform.
This guy frames. I like it
Everything this guy said
Bolts,... in a header? Sure, we'll just have some weird box covering the head and the excess threads and nut. WTF? Glue? Riiiiigggghhhhttttt.
@@NotAPanini everything he said is not correct. you don't use bolts or screws in a header. The nails provide better sheer strength. Bolts will be large and the head and excess threads and nut will stick out so then the sheetrock will have some weird box covering it.
Nice job what the thickness for the OSB I'm going to build a header.
Thanks! It is half-inch OSB. Technically 7/16. Thanks for watching!
Would two 2x6 headers stacked on top of each other be the same as a 2x12 header?Or would be like a 2x12 header with a split in the middle ?
I’m trying to correct a problem done by a previous builder. Even though I have a support wall up I just don’t want to remove the header that is installed
No, that would not be a good idea. You want the header to act as a single, solid member.
With an existing wall, build a temporary wall to bear the load properly, remove the old header, install the new header properly, remove the temporary wall
So for a 2x6 wall would I just use a second piece of filler strip and a third 2x12. I am installing a patio door on my trailer house, I see all the current windows have a single 2x6 for the headers seems wrong to me.
No insulation between the 2x12s?
What size nail do you use for these header sandwiches?
16d 3 1/4”
3 1/4" is a 12D nail. 3 1/2" is 16D nail.
home depot sells the 3 1/4" as a 16d option.
Why do the nails have to be done in a w diagonal pattern? Just why, thanks. Good info.
Should you use glue? Anybody please advise.
What size lvl header for 16 and 20 feet span
I don't see a 16 or 20ft span mentioned in the 2021 International Residential Code Book. For something that large you probably have to talk to an Engineer and have the header designed.
What’s the high for window
I'd like to make a box header out of 3/4" plywood as I could leave 1/2" in the middle for rigid insulation and then fill entire space from top of rough opening to top plate, eliminating short cripples. I'd have to stagger my breaks as plywood comes in 8' lengths and the header above the garage is 8' 6". Don't know if it would pass code or not. Be more expensive but would eliminate the bowing and seasonal movement of dimensional lumber.
How many nails are needed for 6x6 header? How far apart?
Would 2.5" or 3" screws and Liquid Nail work okay? I know the nails would save time, but I'm only doing 2 headers and I don't have a serious nail gun....yet! lol
Yes those would work fine. Definitely overkill but the header will be solid! Hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer Thanks! Gonna make them tomorrow! :)
What sizes thickness are the windows strips to make the sandwich
I'm watching and learning. Thank you very much.
What size nails do you use?
12D or 16D. I would use 16 D if possible. Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer made my header today and it came out amazing! Used the w pattern and also a 5 row line 16” OC. I had to put one beam up at a time and then nail them together in place due to the LVL weight. They were 16’ long. Used three jacks and Simpson sraps to tie the double top plate, 10” header, and jacks
Price of material is going up fast! How will you save money on your project?
Me laborer dude let’s get real for the people out there no matter where they are. This year there was an increase in several places for the demand of electric space heaters with Texas being a great example. So happens the town I’m in sold completely out. First thing that comes to mind is “Oh dear goodness this town needs an energy audit badly!!!” That being said as soon as I ask most people what their energy rating is they don’t know what we’re talking about. I went to the hardware store and the lady there selling furnaces is asking the customers as they walk by “How’s your furnace” rudely most people reply some gruff way “It’s great” and I stopped and I told her “You’re asking me the wrong question, you should be asking me how energy efficient is my home and if I’ve had or want an energy audit. The best furnace in the world isn’t the best if the building is inefficient. Then in a problem even if you get it warm/cold will it hold it’s temperature. With rising costs of materials it’s not a bad idea to consider putting the money where it counts and into something you can get a guaranteed economic return on your investment. That way next time there’s a problem you’re comfortable. Upgrading with a retrofit or replacement window is a plus. Going to triple pane helps the economic return. Consider an energy audit and find out exactly where your house stands and how you can invest in your home to make it more energy efficient and also capture your “Economic Return”. Mr laborer dude can you explain for us what economic return is when we are talking about energy efficiency. Maybe explain how an energy audit can help us decide if we need an energy upgrade and not a furnace upgrade.
Nice video, man. You deserve that cold Heineken...uh, "protein shake" for all that hard work.
Like the video that's the way I've done a lot of headers in the past always sandwich OSB between but I like to use Liquid nail as well as nails
I'm replacing my dining room to garage door, whoever sold me the house put in a 24" interior door. I bought a 32" entrance door that's insulated as the garage isn't. All my heat is escaping out that door in the winter.
for a 2x6 (x2) with 1/2" ply, what size nail do I use, and do I do both sides? this is for 36" entry door.
I use 3 1/4” 16D nails. And I nail from both sides. So it’s a strong sandwiched header. Hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer yes, I'm going to go buy some nail now as I've only got 2-1/2" at the moment. *Thanks*
Glue and Screw it!
.. . . does math on envelope - hired.
Excellent video!!
The camera work makes me feel like I am actually doing the work myself - although you probably need a new phone every 6 months.
Thanks a lot! I love this comment. I actually got a regular camera now. I keep my phone in my pocket now. Thanks for watching!
I would like to save a couple thousands on not buying custom windows without loosing the size. This leaves me with a small header opening. A little more than a 2x4 can fit in the gap. It’s no load bearing on a gable end. Is there a way to get around having to use a 2x6 as header? Different material? Like a metal beam?
very good video. You are very good at this!
Thanks for the video! Maybe I missed it but should the cupped side be on the exterior or interior of the wall?
Cup side goes inside towards the OSB that way when you nail it it will draw the cup out or flatten the cup as much as possible
You should wear a go pro on hat or head. You videos have really helped me on my builds and knowledge.
Thanks Jason! I do that on some of my videos. I did siding and some framing with it. It does work good. I will try to get more footage with it. Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I really like you videos. Very Thorough, and you explain reasons why.
Garage door header eaten by termites. The insects are gone as I had a liquid barrier put in however the damage is left behind. Looking over all these options as paying a contractor would cost several thousand dollars.
Seeing all your lumber and OSB laying outside... I don't know how wet it is around where you are, but how long can you leave a build and materials open to the elements? Cheers! 👍
I always cover it up at the end of the day. It can last a long time outside if you keep it covered!
Cop on side goes inside or outside when lay on top of plywood
It would be awesome to work aside with you to learn and absorb your skills
Excellent video! I want to build a 74" header for a sliding patio door. What kind of lumber I need? Is it SYP too heavy?
2 x 10’s or 2 x 12’s would work
Great information and very clearly explained. One suggestion, have someone do the videoing for you so it isn't so shaky and too close, but like I said, great video!!
Thanks Janice for the comment and the appreciation. I agree that it was a little shaky. I love getting feedback so thank you for that!
Invest in a go pro! It’ll make things so much easier!
I do have a few videos of the framing with my GoPro on.
Wow, he can look at it and see its square, need to actually check it with a combination square
So you biuld a header two times longer same way as you biuld a header for 36 in window opening. Now there's a question how competent that engineer who designed this house . By overbiulding those headers he created termal bridges which could be avoided
I'm the excellent labor he he he
times and just need to slow down and explain
I SAW NO HEADER ABOVE DOOR.....
I have always glued my osb. Both sides. This is a amateur framer.
like
Thank you 🔨
Most of the times wood is curved so I step on these and hit them with a hammer to get them straight you're creating pressure while stepping on them they won't move back and you nail it
What size nails did you use for the header?