You forgot the hardest/special part... Seat bolts are M10 or 10mm triple squares/12 points. Only 1 auto parts store in my area had them in a kit of 3. $20
The car in this video is from the Audi 4L model series. You need to know this sometimes, but procedure probably the same for others. He's understating the battery weight. It's very heavy and you're going to have to lift it and the one you're replacing several times. Be careful. Good idea to have a high school fullback handy. You can also buy the battery at Autozone. I think it's the same manufacturer as the dealership battery with an Autozone label. Buy the Ross VCDS software. You'll need it for more than battery change. If you pay dealership for battery, installation and programming, you won't have software when you drive home. Please believe me, you're going to need it.
Maybe the only location dumber than an engine bay. Engineers we're drunk on this one. Dealership battery? Battery codes? What was I thinking buying one of these?
I have a Q7. I’ve never hated a car this much in my life. Everything about this truck was designed by drunk engineers. Windows who freeze all the time check. Doors that freeze. Check. Door locking mechanism made from 4 different parts that each cost 500$ check. Battery under the seat. Check. Like honestly I could go on for hours. 😡
Over-engineered to the max, and in a very service/user-hostile style. OTOH, this was Audi's first real SUV. Before this, the closest thing they had were the Allroad quattro of A4 and A6.
Do you recommend attaching a jumper battery pack to the under hood + & - terminals to power the inside courtesy and overhead lights,retain memory to computers modules radio presets etc?
Quite honestly, the best, to the point, clear, concise and detailed instructions to replace the battery. Watching your video made this job super easy! THANK YOU!!! BTW, if you purchase a battery from places like Advanced Auto Parts, Auto Zone etc., they will usually replace it for you at no extra cost - but will not touch it if it's under the driver's seat. Also, a trick I picked up is to hook the battery terminals under the hood to another car's battery with jumper cables during the replacement process. This way, the car is always connected to a battery at all times and nothing needs to be programmed after the replacement 😊
@@OlisGarage Thanks for your response. Using the method I mentioned did not require me to enter/program any battery code into the vehicle. Secondary battery connection is the most fool proof way of replacing the battery.
@@deandufresne8808 the car does not prompt a code upon battery change. It’s just the last step of the process of changing a battery. You can disconnect the battery and it also won’t delete the code of the old battery or change any of the battery coding. Honestly I don’t exactly know what programming in the new code does. I’ve read that it tells the car that a new battery is installed and gives the car the specs of the battery so that it is able to be optimally charged. Either way, it’s outlined as the last step in the repair manual. The engineers which were paid to design the car surely had a reason for it. The reason may be good, bad, or neutral. I probably won’t ever know. But I do try to follow the book for repairs. Not trying to argue or call anyone dumb! I just wanted to provide you the information that went in to making the decision.
You can wipe out your $1,000 alternator and new battery by not reprogramming base settings (entering battery code). It has absolutely nothing to do with keeping your radio stations saved. It’s all about how much charge the alternator delivers the battery. Just FYI!
What if you hook the terminals up under the hood to a charger while changing the battery will it allow the computer to rest itself once I install the new battery not having to use the coding or memory saver to reset the life of the battery?
That is not the issue. The computer has the old battery info saved, no matter if you disconnect the battery or not. It’s in there for good. One needs to change that information to new battery info. That is only possible with a computer. How necessary is it? Not sure. But it is listed as a step
Great video! Question for you… what if I get an after market battery that doesn’t have a code, or what happens if I don’t change the code in the computer?
The new battery will not last as long. Either get it coded by using the same code as your current battery by changing the last digit when registering. Faking out the pc. Or when u just give up and tired of spending 350 to change a battery..buy a solar panel battery maintainer. Plug it in the cigarette lighter and say f*uck audi!
Previous commentor is correct that the battery won't last as long. The ECM needs to know the battery so it can tell the alternator how to recharge it. I realize it's too late for you, but for the sake of anyone else reading this and looking for a battery, I found it at Autozone. I did a lot of research on Audi owner group websites and learned it there. Be advised, doing it this way, you still need to tell the ECM which battery it is. You'll need software to do that. In my case, it was cheaper to buy the software than take it to the dealership to code it. If you go to the dealership, you don't have anything after. If you buy the software, you'll still have that. If you drive an Audi, you'll need the software for too many other things.
Thanks so much for this tutorial! So far so good replacing my car battery and starting the car. All is functioning except the MMI screen. Is that what the special cable is for? Do I need a trip to the dealership?
Only if u are willing to pay 4k..if your still having this issue, i can help. I fixed 2 of these with the same issue but different problems. Will gladly help you to troubleshoot it and fix it yourself.
@osleezzyy Thanks. After some trial and error by a shop and checking ALL the fuses, they found a burnt fuse that wasn't listed on the specs and voila. They only charged me 1 labor hour.
This is a GREAT video, and everything went super smooth. BUT, I missed the coding part at the end, so I'm really not saving myself much money. The battery is in the $220 to $250 range, and the Ross Tech Cable is another $200. The coding doesn't sound like a step I can skip, so I'll probably go to my mechanic to do the coding part ... hopefully, he can do it quickly, and not charge much.
I look at tools and those cables as less of a cost and more of an investment. Yes the total cost is equal for the first repair. But for the next time you have the tools and you can always use that cable to diagnose a check engine light! I honestly recommend buying the cable. I think it’s worth it in the long run. But then again I don’t know how much work you plan to do on the car. If you rarely work on it yourself, then the cable probably isn’t worth it. There are also options to rent cables. Check fixmyvw. They rent the cables
Thanks for the video! Is there an easy way to tell if a dead battery is actually caused by the battery or the alternator in a Q7 without going to a repair shop?
Measure the voltage when the car is running. If around 14, then the alternator is good. If around 12.5, then the alternator is bad. Bad alternator usually will also get the battery light to come on in the dash.
@OlisGarage Hey thanks for the quick responses, I got the vent tube at the dealer and just installed it. Do you think it had anything to do with the battery draining, or not related?
@@erkidfusha4919 that would not cause the battery to drain. If the battery really is draining unexpectedly fast, ericthecarguy has a great parasitic drain video
After I jump started my dead battery and drove the car, I noticed a sewage smell (battery fumes?) and thought it was my AC. Tracked the smell to be coming from under the driver seat and noticed that it is warm there. Using a flashlight, I saw some smoke coming out and the battery was so hot to the touch. Hopefully it is just the battery that is bad and nothing else. Is there an OBD2 device and an app I can use to program the battery like with BMWs Bimmercode and Bimmerlink? Or do I have to go with the cable?
Ross tech sells a device you plug in and then can do everything from your phone. You might (key word might) also be able to use obd11 or something similar. However, Ross tech is the best and I’ve never tried anything else. You can rent a cable from fixmyeuro.
I went to local European car shop after replacing my battery (thanks your video was excellent) but the guy there thinks that(maybe) 2013 Q7 audi, might not need cable update???? Any thoughts on this??
Most cars with stop start system require the coding to allow the system to operate correctly. In the U.K. stop start appeared around 2010 in German cars.
My battery is 100% dead and hooking a charger on the jumper posts doesn't give enough umph to get my sear to move. Is there a way to manually move the seat, or am I stuck taking out the seat?
So i am to use my laptop for the VCDS software which has to be what uploaded /or downloaded ? How long does the programming or process work with respect to the battery being changed in the vehicle ?
One downloads the software from Ross tech. They have videos and tutorials on their site on how to use the software. I also linked a video on how to program the battery. Total time for me was about 5 mins. Battery still gets charged if it isn’t programmed. I’m not 100% sure what all the programming does, but it is needed to properly do the repair. I haven’t ever tried to use a battery and not program it afterwards.
Can you swap out the batteries and then take it to the dealership to be recoded? Do non-OEM batteries have a code on them so the dealership can quickly recode? Thank you!
No. In some auto parts stores, they have no clue what the code is. Do not make the same mistake i made. Make sure to take a picture of the code. Audi dealer charges 300 just to code the pc for the new battery. Buy a vag scanner that has battery registration. Like isoft. $80.00 diy. Its crazy to spend close to $600 for a battery..
Forgot to mention. When registering the non oem battery use the code from the old battery and change the last digit by 1. So if the last number is 6 enter 7 and your good to go.
Hmm weird. It should be recoded, yes. And if you don’t have the software from Ross tech then the dealership or another independent shop is your best bet.
Get the VCDS. If you go to the dealership, you don't have anything after. With VCDS, you'll have the software. It's not just for battery changes. It's a comprehensive tool. If you drive an Audi, you'll need it.
It won’t. The code is specific to the new battery. It has nothing to do with the old battery. You can disconnect the battery every day and never have to recode. It’s only because of the new battery. The new battery has a different code, and that new different code is what needs to be changed and saved. That code is saved permanently once you put it in, like a document on your computer. Turning off your computer doesn’t delete the document.
I clicked the link for the cable rental and it says “Will not work for 2015 + Audi & VW”. Of course my car happens to be a 2015 Audi Q7. Is this true? Is this car that your worked on happen to be 2015?
@@OlisGarage . Bro am talking about the ease. In any normal car just pop up the hood and you are good to replace the battery. Had a similar situation with my Acadia if the passenger seat was way too back then welcome to the struggle.
Going to reply without typing an essay..q7 has a system that monitors things. If you don't code the battery, that system last save was your dead battery. It will continue to think you have a dead battery and will drain your new battery..
I managed how to do it. I insert a strong piece of wood, acting as a lever, thru both handles, just so that it passes 2 inches the 2nd handle. Then from the other end of the lever i can easily pull up and lift the battery.
@@gboyce975 don’t buy a truck either. They have two batteries! And definitely don’t buy a jeep grand Cherokee. It also has it under the seat! Let alone a Chrysler Sebring that has it in the front wheel well. Or a Ford transit also has it under the drivers seat.
@@gboyce975 I have a 7.3, easy to get to but twice the cost in batteries. Not to mention all of the other American cars that I listed that have the battery under the seat or in the fender well. Very little to do with it being specifically German. My VW (VW owns Audi) has it in the engine bay. You’ll be very disappointed when you buy an American car and find the battery also under the seat.
No offense but there’s just no way unless your car has been inside its whole entire life that you just took this triple square bolt out without any push I have all the tools and there’s just no way that bolt is ever coming out because someone put in Loctite So the next thing I do is write it off and that’s tricky you say move the seat forward how are you supposed to move anything if the battery is dead I can’t move anything the battery is completely dead so if you’re replacing the battery you should know that moving the seat forward would’ve been great before the battery died because in my situation the situation that is driving me nuts
……hook up a 12v battery charger to the jump points I talk about in the beginning of the video. That then will provide power to the car. A pretty simple solution that works in all cases honestly The car hasn’t been inside it’s whole life. The triple square HOWEVER, is INSIDE the vehicle. Not sure why you are having difficulties. Get a bigger wrench.
Yes there is..pop the hood and hook up jumper cables to the two posts designed for them. Now you’re providing power to the car again (assuming the other side of your jumper cables are connected to a battery of sorts). Then move the seat forward.
@@virginiagrenier8572 all I wanted to say is that it’s really not that hard to move the seat forward on a dead battery. This is the second comment people have left saying it won’t work with a dead battery. I don’t want people to think a dead battery makes it impossible to swap the battery as it isn’t; that’s all! Take care and good luck on the repair 😃
You forgot the hardest/special part... Seat bolts are M10 or 10mm triple squares/12 points.
Only 1 auto parts store in my area had them in a kit of 3. $20
The car in this video is from the Audi 4L model series. You need to know this sometimes, but procedure probably the same for others.
He's understating the battery weight. It's very heavy and you're going to have to lift it and the one you're replacing several times. Be careful. Good idea to have a high school fullback handy.
You can also buy the battery at Autozone. I think it's the same manufacturer as the dealership battery with an Autozone label.
Buy the Ross VCDS software. You'll need it for more than battery change. If you pay dealership for battery, installation and programming, you won't have software when you drive home. Please believe me, you're going to need it.
Maybe the only location dumber than an engine bay. Engineers we're drunk on this one. Dealership battery? Battery codes? What was I thinking buying one of these?
I have a Q7. I’ve never hated a car this much in my life. Everything about this truck was designed by drunk engineers. Windows who freeze all the time check. Doors that freeze. Check. Door locking mechanism made from 4 different parts that each cost 500$ check. Battery under the seat. Check. Like honestly I could go on for hours. 😡
Worst audi i have owned, when it drives, it's great. But jesus the faults, and stupid design flaws.
Over-engineered to the max, and in a very service/user-hostile style. OTOH, this was Audi's first real SUV. Before this, the closest thing they had were the Allroad quattro of A4 and A6.
You should look up a dodge journey battery location 😂
Dodge is worse, they love making you take off a front wheel because the battery is inside the fender😮
I do a LOT of things automotive by watching TH-cam. This is by far the most comprehensive and complete video I used. Thx for posting this Oli.
You’re very welcome! Happy that it helped.
Do you recommend attaching a jumper battery pack to the under hood + & - terminals to power the inside courtesy and overhead lights,retain memory to computers modules radio presets etc?
Quite honestly, the best, to the point, clear, concise and detailed instructions to replace the battery. Watching your video made this job super easy! THANK YOU!!!
BTW, if you purchase a battery from places like Advanced Auto Parts, Auto Zone etc., they will usually replace it for you at no extra cost - but will not touch it if it's under the driver's seat.
Also, a trick I picked up is to hook the battery terminals under the hood to another car's battery with jumper cables during the replacement process. This way, the car is always connected to a battery at all times and nothing needs to be programmed after the replacement 😊
Definitely using that trick thank you
So that does work to not loose settings, but that doesn’t solve the issue that the code of the new battery needs to be programmed into the vehicle.
@@OlisGarage Thanks for your response. Using the method I mentioned did not require me to enter/program any battery code into the vehicle. Secondary battery connection is the most fool proof way of replacing the battery.
@@deandufresne8808 the car does not prompt a code upon battery change. It’s just the last step of the process of changing a battery. You can disconnect the battery and it also won’t delete the code of the old battery or change any of the battery coding.
Honestly I don’t exactly know what programming in the new code does. I’ve read that it tells the car that a new battery is installed and gives the car the specs of the battery so that it is able to be optimally charged. Either way, it’s outlined as the last step in the repair manual. The engineers which were paid to design the car surely had a reason for it. The reason may be good, bad, or neutral. I probably won’t ever know. But I do try to follow the book for repairs.
Not trying to argue or call anyone dumb! I just wanted to provide you the information that went in to making the decision.
You can wipe out your $1,000 alternator and new battery by not reprogramming base settings (entering battery code). It has absolutely nothing to do with keeping your radio stations saved. It’s all about how much charge the alternator delivers the battery. Just FYI!
Simply move the electric seat back when the battery is completely dead 😂
Correct. You should provide power to the car with the hookups I show in the beginning of the video.
What if you hook the terminals up under the hood to a charger while changing the battery will it allow the computer to rest itself once I install the new battery not having to use the coding or memory saver to reset the life of the battery?
That is not the issue.
The computer has the old battery info saved, no matter if you disconnect the battery or not. It’s in there for good. One needs to change that information to new battery info. That is only possible with a computer.
How necessary is it? Not sure. But it is listed as a step
Why did they out battery under driver seat? Why not put it under the hood like every other normal car?
Great video! Question for you… what if I get an after market battery that doesn’t have a code, or what happens if I don’t change the code in the computer?
The new battery will not last as long. Either get it coded by using the same code as your current battery by changing the last digit when registering. Faking out the pc. Or when u just give up and tired of spending 350 to change a battery..buy a solar panel battery maintainer. Plug it in the cigarette lighter and say f*uck audi!
Previous commentor is correct that the battery won't last as long. The ECM needs to know the battery so it can tell the alternator how to recharge it. I realize it's too late for you, but for the sake of anyone else reading this and looking for a battery, I found it at Autozone. I did a lot of research on Audi owner group websites and learned it there.
Be advised, doing it this way, you still need to tell the ECM which battery it is. You'll need software to do that. In my case, it was cheaper to buy the software than take it to the dealership to code it. If you go to the dealership, you don't have anything after. If you buy the software, you'll still have that. If you drive an Audi, you'll need the software for too many other things.
amazing tutorial, thanks so much, my 2008 Q7 battery need to be replaced just now after 15 years, amazing Audi.
Did u ever find out
Great video! I just bought a AGM battery with no BEM code on it, do I still need to recode it
If you want the stop start system to work then yes. I disabled mine to stop the starter motor getting hammered.
Thanks so much for this tutorial! So far so good replacing my car battery and starting the car. All is functioning except the MMI screen. Is that what the special cable is for? Do I need a trip to the dealership?
The cable is only to program the new battery code. But that shouldn’t be needed for the mmi screen to function. Not sure what is going on there
Only if u are willing to pay 4k..if your still having this issue, i can help. I fixed 2 of these with the same issue but different problems. Will gladly help you to troubleshoot it and fix it yourself.
@osleezzyy Thanks. After some trial and error by a shop and checking ALL the fuses, they found a burnt fuse that wasn't listed on the specs and voila. They only charged me 1 labor hour.
This is a GREAT video, and everything went super smooth. BUT, I missed the coding part at the end, so I'm really not saving myself much money. The battery is in the $220 to $250 range, and the Ross Tech Cable is another $200. The coding doesn't sound like a step I can skip, so I'll probably go to my mechanic to do the coding part ... hopefully, he can do it quickly, and not charge much.
I look at tools and those cables as less of a cost and more of an investment.
Yes the total cost is equal for the first repair. But for the next time you have the tools and you can always use that cable to diagnose a check engine light!
I honestly recommend buying the cable. I think it’s worth it in the long run. But then again I don’t know how much work you plan to do on the car. If you rarely work on it yourself, then the cable probably isn’t worth it.
There are also options to rent cables. Check fixmyvw. They rent the cables
Thanks for the video! Is there an easy way to tell if a dead battery is actually caused by the battery or the alternator in a Q7 without going to a repair shop?
Measure the voltage when the car is running. If around 14, then the alternator is good. If around 12.5, then the alternator is bad.
Bad alternator usually will also get the battery light to come on in the dash.
Any setting lost without another battery holding the power during replacement ?
Just the normal time and such.
I got a couple of triple square m10 bits but the seat bolt does not move and slips - any idea why it is happening?
How come some q7 have the hose that attaches to the battery and some don't ? Mine doesn't have it either but most have it.
It’s probably just missing if I had to guess
@OlisGarage Hey thanks for the quick responses, I got the vent tube at the dealer and just installed it. Do you think it had anything to do with the battery draining, or not related?
@@erkidfusha4919 that would not cause the battery to drain. If the battery really is draining unexpectedly fast, ericthecarguy has a great parasitic drain video
After I jump started my dead battery and drove the car, I noticed a sewage smell (battery fumes?) and thought it was my AC. Tracked the smell to be coming from under the driver seat and noticed that it is warm there. Using a flashlight, I saw some smoke coming out and the battery was so hot to the touch. Hopefully it is just the battery that is bad and nothing else. Is there an OBD2 device and an app I can use to program the battery like with BMWs Bimmercode and Bimmerlink? Or do I have to go with the cable?
Ross tech sells a device you plug in and then can do everything from your phone. You might (key word might) also be able to use obd11 or something similar. However, Ross tech is the best and I’ve never tried anything else. You can rent a cable from fixmyeuro.
I went to local European car shop after replacing my battery (thanks your video was excellent) but the guy there thinks that(maybe) 2013 Q7 audi, might not need cable update???? Any thoughts on this??
Honestly I am not exactly sure when they started with the battery coding. I know it was needed for the 2015.
Most cars with stop start system require the coding to allow the system to operate correctly. In the U.K. stop start appeared around 2010 in German cars.
Does your car have to be on some machine to change battery?
No
My battery is 100% dead and hooking a charger on the jumper posts doesn't give enough umph to get my sear to move. Is there a way to manually move the seat, or am I stuck taking out the seat?
Get an actual battery charger instead of a jumper because that can put out more amps.
@@OlisGarage ok. Thank you 😊
So i am to use my laptop for the VCDS software which has to be what uploaded /or downloaded ? How long does the programming or process work with respect to the battery being changed in the vehicle ?
One downloads the software from Ross tech. They have videos and tutorials on their site on how to use the software. I also linked a video on how to program the battery. Total time for me was about 5 mins. Battery still gets charged if it isn’t programmed. I’m not 100% sure what all the programming does, but it is needed to properly do the repair. I haven’t ever tried to use a battery and not program it afterwards.
Is this a Varta battery?
Can you swap out the batteries and then take it to the dealership to be recoded? Do non-OEM batteries have a code on them so the dealership can quickly recode? Thank you!
No. In some auto parts stores, they have no clue what the code is. Do not make the same mistake i made. Make sure to take a picture of the code. Audi dealer charges 300 just to code the pc for the new battery. Buy a vag scanner that has battery registration. Like isoft. $80.00 diy. Its crazy to spend close to $600 for a battery..
Forgot to mention. When registering the non oem battery use the code from the old battery and change the last digit by 1. So if the last number is 6 enter 7 and your good to go.
@@osleezzyy could you please send a link of the scanner you have?
Very well filmed , presented and produced. Kudos to you. André in Sydney
I appreciate it! Glad it was useful.
Hello, Do I need to go to the dealership to recode de battery?? I bought a audi q7 the battery don't have the codes u have
Hmm weird. It should be recoded, yes. And if you don’t have the software from Ross tech then the dealership or another independent shop is your best bet.
@@OlisGarage thanks
Get the VCDS. If you go to the dealership, you don't have anything after. With VCDS, you'll have the software. It's not just for battery changes. It's a comprehensive tool. If you drive an Audi, you'll need it.
I have a battery charger at home which I will connect when replacing the battery. This will avoid another $200. 00 to recode l the battery.
It won’t. The code is specific to the new battery. It has nothing to do with the old battery. You can disconnect the battery every day and never have to recode. It’s only because of the new battery. The new battery has a different code, and that new different code is what needs to be changed and saved. That code is saved permanently once you put it in, like a document on your computer. Turning off your computer doesn’t delete the document.
This video was extremely helpful. From which tools are need to the step by step breakdown. Thanks!
Glad it helped out!!
Thanks. Very helpful, right down to the tools required!
I clicked the link for the cable rental and it says “Will not work for 2015 + Audi & VW”. Of course my car happens to be a 2015 Audi Q7. Is this true? Is this car that your worked on happen to be 2015?
I also have a 2015 Q7. I feel your pain.
Couldn't they make it anymore difficult? Further if thr battery is totally dead how a person will slide the seat to gain bettwr access ?
@@AtifMughal1981 the connectors in the engine bay would need used to provide power
@@OlisGarage . Bro am talking about the ease. In any normal car just pop up the hood and you are good to replace the battery. Had a similar situation with my Acadia if the passenger seat was way too back then welcome to the struggle.
How do you reset the new battery?
I’m not exactly sure what you’re asking. No need for anything to be reset.
Thanks for this video! It saved me lots of frustration.
why does it the battery have to be programmed into the car ?
Going to reply without typing an essay..q7 has a system that monitors things. If you don't code the battery, that system last save was your dead battery. It will continue to think you have a dead battery and will drain your new battery..
I need to do that, and code the new battery..
Great video footage and well explained, thanks a lot!
Excellent vid - thanks so much for that!
There's no room to pull the battery upwards, how the hell do you do that?
I managed how to do it. I insert a strong piece of wood, acting as a lever, thru both handles, just so that it passes 2 inches the 2nd handle. Then from the other end of the lever i can easily pull up and lift the battery.
Good video. Thanks for the knowledge.
Nice and simple. Great directions.
this was so helpful just got a white one and thought someone stole my battery lol
Appreciate the video my wife went in while i was on the road and mucked it up smh
Very helpful sir👍🏾
Very well done video.
I have the same model, I must say that this is one hell of a stupid car.
Well done, many thanks
Easy and super way.
Nice video but WTF is a Fk'in battery doing under the Fk'in drivers seat? Fk'in Audi!
Great job
Audi makes it hard for DIY.
Not easy, but luckily also not impossible like Tesla and such.
Yeah. It's heavy as hell isn't it? You could power a house with one of these batteries.
I'm never buying another German car again. Can't believe the battery is under the seat
@@gboyce975 don’t buy a truck either. They have two batteries! And definitely don’t buy a jeep grand Cherokee. It also has it under the seat! Let alone a Chrysler Sebring that has it in the front wheel well. Or a Ford transit also has it under the drivers seat.
@OlisGarage I had a diesel excursion with two batteries. No problem, super easy to get to
@@gboyce975 I have a 7.3, easy to get to but twice the cost in batteries. Not to mention all of the other American cars that I listed that have the battery under the seat or in the fender well.
Very little to do with it being specifically German. My VW (VW owns Audi) has it in the engine bay.
You’ll be very disappointed when you buy an American car and find the battery also under the seat.
No offense but there’s just no way unless your car has been inside its whole entire life that you just took this triple square bolt out without any push I have all the tools and there’s just no way that bolt is ever coming out because someone put in Loctite
So the next thing I do is write it off and that’s tricky you say move the seat forward how are you supposed to move anything if the battery is dead I can’t move anything the battery is completely dead so if you’re replacing the battery you should know that moving the seat forward would’ve been great before the battery died because in my situation the situation that is driving me nuts
……hook up a 12v battery charger to the jump points I talk about in the beginning of the video. That then will provide power to the car. A pretty simple solution that works in all cases honestly
The car hasn’t been inside it’s whole life. The triple square HOWEVER, is INSIDE the vehicle. Not sure why you are having difficulties. Get a bigger wrench.
Merci 👍🏻
When the battery is dead and needs to be replaced - there is no adjusting the seat. 😒
Yes there is..pop the hood and hook up jumper cables to the two posts designed for them. Now you’re providing power to the car again (assuming the other side of your jumper cables are connected to a battery of sorts). Then move the seat forward.
@@OlisGarage Gotta have extra battery laying around but you're right - if there is a will, there is a way.
@@virginiagrenier8572 or another car and a set of jumper cables. Or a battery charger.
Yes, and the special tools required.
@@virginiagrenier8572 all I wanted to say is that it’s really not that hard to move the seat forward on a dead battery. This is the second comment people have left saying it won’t work with a dead battery. I don’t want people to think a dead battery makes it impossible to swap the battery as it isn’t; that’s all!
Take care and good luck on the repair 😃