Give your video a less misleading title, please. We're looking for an in depth description of different materials and their helpfulness, not a lesson on terminology.
F, It is difficult to cover complicated subjects in a 3-5 minute format. If you have a specific issue you need assistance with, you can contact us at info@acousticfields.com
Not only that but he wants us to believe that it is the arrangement of the material that keeps the sound out??? So by his logic 2 layers of drywall then a layer of insulation and 2 more layers of drywall will work differently than 3 layers of drywall a layer of insulation then one layer of drywall...that has nothing to do with it. It takes mass plain and simple. All these vids he just runs down bullet points and defines the terms on his board poorly i might add...
@@matthewward5813 You exemple is right, in that case it is the mass plain and simple, but you're not considering reflective materials, substitute one drywall with a reflective membrane (classic exemple would be certain claddings) and the arrangement becomes crucial. I'd say the problem is that he doesn't mention reflection but only absorbtion and diffusion (or maybe I'm missing out some knowledge)
Thanks for the explanation, This is what I was looking for to begin my search for appropriate materials for my project. I'm looking to dampen the sound from within my room, and to dampen sound from outside of my room as well. Quieter nights of sleep, and louder sounds allowable from within my room as to not disturb anyone on the outside. Vibration dampening is the key thing here.
Hi Buddy, There are no "best" materials. There is no one size fits all. Sound quality is a balancing act between all elements. Usage must be matched to size and volume. Internal room surfaces must be in compliance with external shell structure. Sound quality is the end result of doing a lot of little things correctly and in the proper order.
Thanks for the reply...but really you could have just titled your video 'sound damping isn't sound absorbing' and stood there for 2 seconds and said "yup" - that's about all I got from that video - that title is misleading.
just because you dont understand something it doesnt mean it is a waste of time. it's 5.46 minutes, chill out. you would propably waste it on something else ,definately, more unuseful.
To be fair the title of some of these videos really are misleading. Basic concepts are re-iterated over and over again with zero depth. It's a shame because it seems like this field is so full of sales jargon and hardly any scientific proof. It would be refreshing to have somebody simply discuss the physical properties of the various materials that absorb or deflect sound and detail the metrics used to quantify their effectiveness across the audible frequency range.
You kept saying the terms are "very very different" yet if there is a difference, it is not apparent you know what the difference is. Sound IS vibration. Absorption does result in damping. Did you actually feel good about this video? What useful information did you hope you had conveyed?
B, You must start with the basics and work your way towards understanding. Everyone is at a different level of understanding. Go ahead and answer your own questions here for our audience.
Acoustic Fields at the risk of falling into your trap and sounding pedantic, I will suggest some changes. Sound IS a subset of vibration. A useful distinction could be drawn between properties of vibrations traveling through fluids as compared to properties of vibrations traveling through solids. One example of such differences is the absence of shear waves in fluids whereas solids support shear waves. Also, absorption of vibration is a major contributor to damping. It can be thought of as a subset as well. Rather than attempting to create an artificial distinction between absorption and damping, it would be more useful to compare the differences between isolation as compared to damping AND the differences between absorption as compared to redirecting.
Hi Lahattec, Its always a balancing act trying to communicate topics will nomenclature that is used incorrectly in the literature. If you use the correct term to describe the issue, and people are used to hearing and seeing the incorrect word, they will not get past the correct usage to understand topic.
Acoustic Fields preach it! I also encounter difficulty relating a perspective when my deliberate intentional choice of terms distracts from the point I'm attempting to make because my audience decides "I'm saying it wrong", uhm... no, rather you heard it wrong, and worse off stubbornly refuse to be persuaded that you're impression is inaccurate, and inconsistent with reality. (keep on dreaming) [end of rant]
is it helpful to use viscoelastic material sandwich between two face sheet for sound barrier application. My requirement is to dampen the sound wave below 100 Hz. And the next is how efficient a commonly used damping material for sound reduction application in a range of frequency up to 500Hertz.
Hi! Is it possible to achieve something similar without building an inner and an outer shell? I own an adjoining flat and I can hear my neighbor quite clearly, specially his doorbell. I assume damping is the way to go, but building a room inside the living room would be costly, so I should somehow treat a 2.5 by 6 m wall instead. Could you adress this subject anytime soon? I've been waiting for something like that but, as far as I've seen, your videos always focus on absorbing/diffusing/damping interior sound sources. Thanks!
Q, Barrier technology which is the technical name for structures we create to minimize noise or vibration are frequency and amplitude dependent. This means that the amount of noise is important but the level or frequency of that noise is just as important. If you can hear a doorbell through your existing structure, then there is little you can do because your existing structure is not doing its job correctly. The amount of mass and materials you would have to add would be permanent and require extensive construction techniques.
@ quinosonic82 - Sounds like the doorbell is mounted on the shared wall. Talk nice to your neighbor and volunteer to help move the bell, either labor or money. That would be much less expensive than trying to damp the wall vibration. If your neighbor doesn't want to mount the bell elsewhere, good acoustic treatment will help make any good or bad noises sound sweeter. I put in a bunch of treatment (mostly absorption) in my living room/home studio/home theater over the last 18 months and it is a very "comfortable" place. I avoid leaving home and hate being in bad-sounding rooms. As a last resort only, you could always cut a small hole in your wall behind the bell and cut one of the wires.
If I use two ply sheet with small air gap between them. And if I make box with such arrangement. Can this box give a good sound proofing for noisy generator?
What are the frequency and amplitudes of your noise issues? Are the noise issues constant throughout the usage period or do they increase and decrease over certain days or hours? What are the maximum pressure levels you are experiencing, are they consistent, and at what frequencies do these maximum pressures exist at? Guessing with noise is foolish and expensive. You must quantify and qualify.
If all you want to do is reduce sound pollution so you can record audio podcasts in a small 5x5 space, what would you recommend for a solution under $1,000.00? I already bought a 6 pack of the producer's choice acoustic blankets that are supposed to arrive tomorrow. It seems that most of the sound pollution in this environment comes through the door, so I'm considering ordering the producer's choice door covering also, but I want to first see what I'm working with when the blankets arrive. I also bought one of them cheapie $40 microphone sound isolation booths and adhered some mutex to the outside of it. I don't think I'd recommend this approach to anyone by the way. Money would have been better spent on the frame for the blankets or put towards the door cover I'm pretty sure. Anyway.. Although the blankets have a 0.8 NRC they're not going to be able to deal with low frequencies, and even in the mid to upper frequencies they're only going to offer something like 10 db reduction with a single layer. Some of the challenges in this environment consist chiefly of dog barks, dogs playing, dogs walking across hardwood flooring.. but basically the dogs barking in the 1K - 2K frequency range isn't the issue, it's the 60 - 110 db they're capable of producing that is the issue. I don't own a home or have an office and I certainly cannot afford to go all out and build a room within a room.. I know I cannot have a sound proofed environment, but is there something I can do to give myself another 20 - 30 db of noise reduction for only another $200 - $300?
D, You have two issues to consider: noise transmission and treatment. "Acoustic blankets" I am going to assume is a sound absorption technology. This may or may not provide the proper rates and levels of absorption for your usage. Voice requires specific rates and levels of absorption to maximize definition and separation. Noise coming through a wall or door must be treated with barrier technology. These are separate issues that require separate treatment typologies.
Sir. Which is best damping material for speaker cabinet .. and how much it should be thick .. & should it be stick on all the wall .. using 18inch pro audio driver for home hifi
If you have to calculate the vibrational signature of the cabinet design. Remember when building cabinets just like rooms, noise transmission is all about vibration management.
I have a block factory close to neighbors, they are not complaining yet about the vibrating noise; however, is there anyway I could do something to my fence to reduce that noise to reach them? What can i do?
F, Noise requires measurement of frequency and amplitude. You must identify the problem before you can solve it. Send me photos of the fence, distance to neighbors and a description of the noise source. I will examine the situation so we can then perform noise measurements properly. Send to info@acoiusticfields.com
Hi Wally, What is the frequency and amplitude of the noise from the saws? You have to define your noise issues first. You need to know what frequency and how much energy at each frequency of concern. The barrier technology to stop the noise is built using those numbers. Do you have iphone?
Wally Kellett He forgot to give you any real answer there I see. For Android/Iphone download Audiotool app or on pc www.roomeqwizard.com/ Next buy s microphone on Amazon the Dayton IMM-6 24$. It comes calibrated. Time to measure your tools for noise. The most sound is usually the same frequency as the gearbox rpm. Best place to measure is inside a plywood box which is insulated woth rockwool to dampen sound. Or you go outside somewhere quiet where there is no echo and measure the sound.
Wally Kellett Best idea is to dampen the room you want to saw in as best you can floor/ceiling/walls. And also build a fully or partially covered work booth that you've also insulated with rockwool, make sure the worktable you saw on has spring or rubber feet,cuz when you saw into stuff the vibration will travel from table down in the ground
I have a a simple question....i hope someone can answer it...I live in a condo with a shared wall and i want to eliminate the sound of talking from the other side. Will a 5/8 thick sheet of sound proofing drywall added to my existing drywall solve it?
There is no such thing as "sound proofing drywall". What is the frequency and amplitude of the noise? You must measure the noise before you design a proper barrier technology. Is the noise louder on some days? When you design a barrier, you must design for the maximum pressure at all frequencies.
@@AcousticFields no, its a constant level....if i turned the fan higher, i probably wouldnt hear the talking much.......well, soundproof or not, i would imagine that the extra layer would help.
@@GEO-xx6sq Guessing with noise is not recommended. Most guess wrong. make sure you consider the flanking noise in your design. Noise is like water. It will find the weakest link and travel through that structure.
@@AcousticFields i don't know, it's a humming noise. It's not louder than someone speaking but it affects my spleep. I think it comes from a water treatment station. Sometimes when i open the windows the "resonance" effect disappears, sometimes is more strong and opening the windows doesnt change it. Ear plugs (orange ones from 3M) dont work...maybe that sound passes the skull. I say 209hz because i have a App (hz generator) that when i put that number i cant hear the hum, but when i slightly lower or increase the number i can hear the hum and the sound of my phone.
@@AcousticFields I am planning to soundproof and sound dampening a room as I am absolutely terrified of the noise construction works may create (vibrations, noise etc). The company in question had suggested a laminated parquet + mineral wool solution to the walls. When asked how that would reduce the noise he quoted a reduction of 8-10 decibels. I wonder if its worth doing or whether I have to search for other solutions.
T, There is no way you will receive that reduction with full range construction noise. Companies that use limp mass materials to stop noise are misrepresenting the truth.
So I want to make a cheep DIY collapsible (so portable) audio recording booth. Size is small say 6' tall and 4' by 3'. I'm just recording my voice and want some sound dampening so my microphone doesn't pick up the echo from my room and the cars that drive by my apartment. What is a good and cheep material to use to absorb/damp the outside? Again I can't afford actual Acoustic Foam Panels at this time.
Hi BektostheBlackBlade, Do not build this room size and volume. There is not enough distance to allow for time signature management of reflections and even if you can't hear it, the mics can. I will assist you with new size. Fill out the information in this room form: www.acousticfields.com/free-room-analysis/
@@AcousticFields Thanks for replying. I want to know out of different materials if one material has high natural frequency then how is it even related to noise reduction Any sort of equations?
@@AcousticFields ok, if we are provided with a material having high natural frequency will it be a good material selection for noise reduction or should we pick the one with lower natural frequency
A, The resonant frequency of each material used is frequency and amplitude dependent of the noise you are dealing with. One material type is never used. It is always a combination of materials to treat noise. You are looking for a simple solution and with noise. There is none.
Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge. I find your videos to be super helpful. I’m going to be trying to make a budget home studio. I’m planning on adding a second layer of drywall with green glue to my existing walls as well. But before that, I want to blow in some insulation. Do you have a suggestion? I heard fiberglass is best because it is lighter and won’t transfer as much low end energy. But cellulose seems to be what many people are using. On a tight budget. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Greg, I watched some of his other videos and he doesn't recommend drywall. I think he uses 3.8inch plywood. I would contact him and give him more specifics on what you're trying to do before you do it.
I REALLY appreciate your detailed explanation on a field that is SO little understood even by professionals. I am primarily a musician who at some point decided to build my OWN recording studio in a family neighborhood. I was fascinated by the physics of "sound" and by the utter ignorance of "sound professionals" regarding sound. These were the types that put egg crates on the walls or covered the studio with VERY expensive soundex glued to a piece of 1/4 sheet rock . The physics of sound totally absent from their very limited knowledge. Fortunately my first book on studio design contained a DEEP understanding of psycho acoustics and explained IN DETAIL how a poor wall treatment could increase certain frequencies from 50Hz down to subsonic harmonies. I do not know if you recall a popular gizmo that promised the deepest sound you could get in a room WITHOUT speakers. These were plates applied (glued) to walls that could put the walls into sympathetic vibration and the walls acted as the cone of a speaker with frequencies so low they would make you sick. The ONLY benefit of this invention was to tune the plates to achieve phase cancellation on some frequencies so that a different number of damping would not be needed. Before that you had to sandwich layers of panel of specific acoustic resonances to kill a range of very low sounds and it was a mathematical formula that will guide you to the thickness and material of each layer AND the distance between . Since getting exactly what the formula called for many time I had to go for trial and error on the other side of the wall I wanted to dampen. But the "Sound plate" was a quantum leap in sound applications . Put ANY sheet rock wall place plates around it , a mic behind and fire your frequency . By tuning THE WALL you'd see the offending frequency drop at the turn of a knob . This was a god send to engineers , BUT it was a tool of destruction to people at home who wanted to crack the walls of their neighbors. Do YOU recall this invention and if you do , what the hell ever happened to it? Thanks - great series ... but complains are mainly voiced by less than neophytes so do NOT loose hope. To some of us this not only brings great memories but a yearning to go back and experience all the new technology that was available and made us magicians , masters of sound. :)
M, There have been a few tuned resonators through acoustic history. A Helmholtz is a tuned resonator without plates. We use a tuned approach inside the walls. We have pressure mapped over 145 rooms and know frequency / amplitude / position of all unwanted resonances from 30 - 400 Hz. We then apply our carbon diaphragmatic absorber technology between the studs every 14'". We have two frequency ranges that are broadband in our carbon diaphragmatic absorbers. We can use 30 - 50 Hz. or 30 - 400 Hz. depending on frequency and amplitude of the resonance. With a broadband approach, you can cover a lot of fundamentals and harmonics in any room location. I can control rate by varying the carbon amount, cavity depth, and front plate density.
Hmmm .. I guess I was not exposed to that kind of technology since it was way beyond my pay rate :). I did see Sony Studios building a studio in Cuba (Abdala Studios) Amazing studio no one uses. The layering between the walls was never measured , just dropped in place and isolated on all edges . Barely saw what was being done in the studio itself but THAT side wall was angular with different surfaces. The booth was astounding with the longest windows I had ever see . I was told it was done of SIX sheets of some composite transparent material. Take a look . Best kept secret in the world www.produccionesabdala.com/en/home/ $50.00 an hour includes accommodations.!
Hey, I'm making my room sound proof for video/audio recording. But its on a road with heavy traffic. Can two layers (One of 1.5" foam + thermopore sheet) can block the surrounding noises?
Hi A, Without knowing the frequency and amplitude of the noise, you are just guessing and so would I. In noise issues, guessing is gambling and you will not win. Not only will you not achieve the proper rates and levels of noise reduction, you may build something that has to be torn down in order for proper barrier technology to be employed. We have a seven day noise time study you can use with your iphone to get frequency and amplitude numbers. Shoot me an email.
What material deflects sound without vibrating such as acoustics? I want to deflect it back my direction so I know to use a parabolic curve or circle with the material.
S, We can design the barrier for you through our design service. We will need to take noise measurements over a seven day time period and then design for maximum pressure. You can take the noise measurements and send us the data. We will send you the structure to build. The design fee for this service is 1,000 USD.
Hi Arun, Its the variance in the density of the layers that contributes directly to noise transmission. The density, the method of attachment, versus frequency and amplitude.
One question. Let's say you have such a box and there is an engine that makes 32DB sound inside. Whatever the brown colored 1-2cm thick insulating material is, the best sound insulation is provided? If you were, WHAT WOULD YOU CHOOSE that brown material to best insulate the sound? --cork mattress? --fiberglass? ........... teknoseyir.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/6aae00db077c8ca-608x539.png
There is no best. You must calculate your rate and level requirements for each surface area you are treating and match to usage. There is no one size fits all.
I have a question. Would composite asphalt shingles act as decouples if sandwiched between two pieces of 2x10s or sandwiched between two pieces of sheet rock?
To stop the vibration of one 2x10 from transferring to the next. The frequencies are loud muffler noise. I am going to cover part of the eves with , my plan, with two 2x10s with a decouple sandwiched between them to keep the loud noise from coming in through the eaves or Soffit and into the house. Green Glues is not for exterior use. So I am looking at different methods. Then I have thought would the shingles have the same effect as Green Glue or Mass loaded vinyl between two sheets of sheet rock for the inside of the house? I believe the shingles would be cheaper. What are your thoughts on shingles? Thank you
T, Without noise measurements of frequency and amplitude, this is a bit of a guess. I would use your method and repeat the sequence so the barrier is at least 3 1/2" think. This is a minimum thickness we use for low-frequency management which would be the case with loud muffler noise. Green glue is not necessary. Any silicon-based adhesive will work.
F, Probably not echo but high reverberation times. Sound absorption technology is the chosen treatment method. You must match the rate and level of absorption to the frequency and amplitude of the issues in your room.
Alright well my layman ass doesn't need perfection (nor knows how to measure that stuff), I just want to remove room echo/reverb from my vocal recordings, which I'm getting a lot of right now cuz of my bare walls. I'm a rapper and down to add reverb if needed in mixing. Right now I'm leaning towards spending ~200-300$ on Roxul Safe n' Sound insulation to craft my own panels and create a vocal booth out of them in the middle of my bare-walled bedroom or basement (which would be better?). I'm guessing that'd do the job, right? Also if I just care about vocals, do I need to give a shit about bass traps? Or is mid-high freq absorption enough? Or does it depend on my voice? I'm also wondering what kind of household objects I could try first instead. Maybe I'll try covering the walls in thick blankets? Or making a vocal booth in the middle of the room out of thick blankets? (Which would be better?) Would that do the job? And what should I look for in a blanket (or whatever household material you suggest) that indicates it'd be good for this? Hope you get back, I know a lot of other rappers that'd love some confirmation on the effectiveness of these methods, like how they rank with eachother, I'd love to post your feedback on reddit.
Hello, I am currently living in an apartment where I throw parties with my recently graduated friends and my neighbor is starting to complain. I watched another video here on TH-cam describing a cheap solution to making sound panels, that being- making a wood cutout and then filling that with multiple layers of towels. I know that I want dense material to keep the sound in, but do you think the multiple layers of towels would do the trick. I cannot just build a wall, or afford dense materials to put on the wall. Thank you
Hi Jake, Noise transmission issues require barriers to stop the noise. Absorption technology absorbs the energy within a room. Two different technologies with very little overlap. Towels are for bathing only. They have no place in the noise transmission world. You will need to party less and more quietly or build a barrier to keep your party noise inside.
+Katharine Berrigan Linearity is welcome phenomenon but not the case for all frequencies when it comes to barrier technology. Frequencies below 125 Hz. are more mass dependent and construction methodology oriented. You can determine the mass/frequency ratio but make sure your wall materials "circuit" is congruent in the vibration domain, so you don't "short out" the very vibration/frequency you are trying to isolate from by improper construction methodology. Each wall layer has a vibration objective and each wall layer is built upon each other. It is like baking a layered cake. Each layer has its purpose and function in the final result.
I watched 8373747 videos and read 363873 articles that told me the difference between words and no one has ever told me how to stop the noise from my upstairs neighbours....... Just tell me what material to glue to my damn ceiling!
All noise is composed of frequency and amplitude. You must measure the noise and then assign the correct material type to deal with the frequency and amplitude of the noise. Its a process that starts with identification of the problem. Have you measured your noise issue?
@@AcousticFields It's looooouuud! I can clearly hear words and phone on vibration. Dropping a coin sounds like an explosion. Usually upstairs noise is both airborne and structural. I don't need to identify that, it's both. I really don't need to measure the decibels, what difference does it make if it's 45 or 78 or 89 (for example). I just know that it's unbearable. It's a thin brick+concrete layer. I got an offer from a company but with the money they want I'll buy a mansion in Peru... It's a small room, box in box is not an option. Some say structural noise is dampened by space,other say sound and vibration travel through space so you need hard materials. It's confusing. Which goes first? Cork, rubber,air????
@@alessiasimonne2631 "Loud" is a subective term that has different meanings to different people. Since every material you must use in any barrier design is frequency and amplitude dependent, you must know both. This saves time and money. Guessing with noise is foolish. If you guess wrong, which 90% of clients we work with do, you will have to demo the job and start over. Noise below 125 hz. is treated differently than noise above 125 hz.
SAY you work late on the computer but the Keyboard clacking wakes up the wife... what should I stuff the keyboard with theoretically to stop or reduce the clack
Hi audiogeekzine Jon, you are correct however people search more for "dampening" so we went with trying to get them to see the video and thus educate them as to the correct terminology through the video presentation. How's the summer in Vancouver this year? Hope all is well. Thanks Dennis
Mr. Foley(sp?) I appreciate these videos. You get pretty in depth although I wish you had the time to go even more in depth as in a “class” on acoustics. However I do notice that you are very scientific in the way you deliver information by making note of all the grey areas and nuance in the subject matter. Making sure that the audience realizes this is not cut and dry. Although I usually love that approach across the board in any field, ie: nutrition, Psychology, what have you, there comes a point where I really wish you might just throw out some broad general guidelines or advice for maybe at least a handful of scenarios. As an example you might say, “If you were playing drums in a garage and didn’t want any noise complaints you may want to have a separate room within a room or multiple layers of drywall with cotton insulation. Etc. etc. something to that affect. Hopefully what I’m saying makes sense and maybe there is some basic fundamental material(s) that you could safely say will do “x” relatively consistently when used in scenario “x”. Thanks for the free info
K, We have considered that approach but find that it doesn't change belief systems. Every situation is so different. The industry has made a habit of making generalizations and half-truths for so many years that these half-truths are now viewed as facts. Let's use your example to illustrate. Building the barrier you suggested will not stop all the drums. It will only have a partial benefit as it relates to snares and toms. It will have no impact on the kick which is the lowest frequency producing instrument and the noise from just the kick will bother neighbors. Secondly, your barrier design only works at pressure levels below 80 - 85 dB SPL Most drummers play 100 dB + levels. For me to make a generalization about all variables required even to meet a general basis for easy concensus is fraught with disaster.
Acoustic Fields Thank you for your quick reply, and I apologize for my impulsive outburst. I have a UPS which is limiting a high pitch coil whine. Extremely annoying! It is driving me mad! The best way I can describe it is a very sharp whistle. I tried to recreate it using my phone with sound generating app it seems to be around 9,230HZ. I'm desperate to either dampen it or totally intimate it if possible. I even found the culprit coil. I'm trying to find ways to either put dampening or sound proof material on the coil, the insides of the UPS case, or put the whole UPS in an enclosure. As for material, I thought of foam, Styrofoam, cardboard, vacuumed glass panels, wood........ still trying to figure out what to do... could you please kindly advise? Cause I'm literally losing my mind from this whistling! Thank you so much and apologies again.
The video title is "What Are The Best Sound Damping Materials & How Do They Work?" Well, guess what. Still waiting to know what are those famous material as none of them are mentioned in the video. That title is 100% clickbait.
There is no one size fits all. This is a common mistake made by individuals. Every material type and every construction methodology is frequency and amplitude dependent. You must first identify the frequency of the noise and then how strong the noise is before you begin the barrier design using the appropriate frequency and amplitude dependent materials.
How do real movie theaters barer sound were can't here the other room at all and they may have a loud movie with subs Gowing down to 23cycles and in the room next you would never know
A, I have never been in such a theater unless it was a stand alone design with no adjacent theaters. There is always some "bleed". Theaters that have favorable dimensions to wave length do much better at less noise transmission.
R, We need to be careful using words like "best". Everything in acoustics is frequency and amplitude dependent. There is no one size fits all. What works for one group of frequencies, may not work at all for others.
Hi John, The video information shows you that there are no best materials. The materials you use in any barrier are frequency and amplitude dependent. This title was selected to illustrate that you must quantify noise issues and then qualify the type, density, and construction methodology of those materials. It is meant to get you thinking and not blindly accepting a label.
Give your video a less misleading title, please. We're looking for an in depth description of different materials and their helpfulness, not a lesson on terminology.
F, It is difficult to cover complicated subjects in a 3-5 minute format. If you have a specific issue you need assistance with, you can contact us at info@acousticfields.com
Not only that but he wants us to believe that it is the arrangement of the material that keeps the sound out??? So by his logic 2 layers of drywall then a layer of insulation and 2 more layers of drywall will work differently than 3 layers of drywall a layer of insulation then one layer of drywall...that has nothing to do with it. It takes mass plain and simple. All these vids he just runs down bullet points and defines the terms on his board poorly i might add...
@@AcousticFields Video request: The best sound damping materials and how they work
aquietrefuge.com/best-sound-deadening-materials/
@@matthewward5813 You exemple is right, in that case it is the mass plain and simple, but you're not considering reflective materials, substitute one drywall with a reflective membrane (classic exemple would be certain claddings) and the arrangement becomes crucial. I'd say the problem is that he doesn't mention reflection but only absorbtion and diffusion (or maybe I'm missing out some knowledge)
Thanks for the explanation, This is what I was looking for to begin my search for appropriate materials for my project. I'm looking to dampen the sound from within my room, and to dampen sound from outside of my room as well. Quieter nights of sleep, and louder sounds allowable from within my room as to not disturb anyone on the outside. Vibration dampening is the key thing here.
Thank you for the lesson. I appreciate the well structured sharing of knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
SOOO, what ARE the best materials then??? thanks for wasting my time.
Hi Buddy, There are no "best" materials. There is no one size fits all. Sound quality is a balancing act between all elements. Usage must be matched to size and volume. Internal room surfaces must be in compliance with external shell structure. Sound quality is the end result of doing a lot of little things correctly and in the proper order.
Thanks for the reply...but really you could have just titled your video 'sound damping isn't sound absorbing' and stood there for 2 seconds and said "yup" - that's about all I got from that video - that title is misleading.
this had me in stitches.
just because you dont understand something it doesnt mean it is a waste of time. it's 5.46 minutes, chill out. you would propably waste it on something else ,definately, more unuseful.
To be fair the title of some of these videos really are misleading. Basic concepts are re-iterated over and over again with zero depth. It's a shame because it seems like this field is so full of sales jargon and hardly any scientific proof. It would be refreshing to have somebody simply discuss the physical properties of the various materials that absorb or deflect sound and detail the metrics used to quantify their effectiveness across the audible frequency range.
You kept saying the terms are "very very different" yet if there is a difference, it is not apparent you know what the difference is.
Sound IS vibration. Absorption does result in damping.
Did you actually feel good about this video? What useful information did you hope you had conveyed?
B, You must start with the basics and work your way towards understanding. Everyone is at a different level of understanding. Go ahead and answer your own questions here for our audience.
Acoustic Fields at the risk of falling into your trap and sounding pedantic, I will suggest some changes.
Sound IS a subset of vibration. A useful distinction could be drawn between properties of vibrations traveling through fluids as compared to properties of vibrations traveling through solids. One example of such differences is the absence of shear waves in fluids whereas solids support shear waves.
Also, absorption of vibration is a major contributor to damping. It can be thought of as a subset as well.
Rather than attempting to create an artificial distinction between absorption and damping, it would be more useful to compare the differences between isolation as compared to damping AND the differences between absorption as compared to redirecting.
It's so nice that you use "damping", even though the text at the beginning says "dampening". I don't want to throw water on my sound. ;)
Hi Lahattec, Its always a balancing act trying to communicate topics will nomenclature that is used incorrectly in the literature. If you use the correct term to describe the issue, and people are used to hearing and seeing the incorrect word, they will not get past the correct usage to understand topic.
Acoustic Fields preach it! I also encounter difficulty relating a perspective when my deliberate intentional choice of terms distracts from the point I'm attempting to make because my audience decides "I'm saying it wrong", uhm... no, rather you heard it wrong, and worse off stubbornly refuse to be persuaded that you're impression is inaccurate, and inconsistent with reality. (keep on dreaming)
[end of rant]
is it helpful to use viscoelastic material sandwich between two face sheet for sound barrier application. My requirement is to dampen the sound wave below 100 Hz. And the next is how efficient a commonly used damping material for sound reduction application in a range of frequency up to 500Hertz.
Noise transmission below 125 hz. requires a completely different design than frequencies and amplitudes above 125 hz.
Hi! Is it possible to achieve something similar without building an inner and an outer shell? I own an adjoining flat and I can hear my neighbor quite clearly, specially his doorbell. I assume damping is the way to go, but building a room inside the living room would be costly, so I should somehow treat a 2.5 by 6 m wall instead. Could you adress this subject anytime soon? I've been waiting for something like that but, as far as I've seen, your videos always focus on absorbing/diffusing/damping interior sound sources. Thanks!
Q, Barrier technology which is the technical name for structures we create to minimize noise or vibration are frequency and amplitude dependent. This means that the amount of noise is important but the level or frequency of that noise is just as important. If you can hear a doorbell through your existing structure, then there is little you can do because your existing structure is not doing its job correctly. The amount of mass and materials you would have to add would be permanent and require extensive construction techniques.
I know, they go cheap on those dividing walls. I'll try to talk him into mounting that thing somewhere else in his flat, haha. Thanks a lot anyway.
@ quinosonic82 - Sounds like the doorbell is mounted on the shared wall. Talk nice to your neighbor and volunteer to help move the bell, either labor or money. That would be much less expensive than trying to damp the wall vibration.
If your neighbor doesn't want to mount the bell elsewhere, good acoustic treatment will help make any good or bad noises sound sweeter. I put in a bunch of treatment (mostly absorption) in my living room/home studio/home theater over the last 18 months and it is a very "comfortable" place. I avoid leaving home and hate being in bad-sounding rooms.
As a last resort only, you could always cut a small hole in your wall behind the bell and cut one of the wires.
If I use two ply sheet with small air gap between them. And if I make box with such arrangement. Can this box give a good sound proofing for noisy generator?
What are the frequency and amplitudes of your noise issues? Are the noise issues constant throughout the usage period or do they increase and decrease over certain days or hours? What are the maximum pressure levels you are experiencing, are they consistent, and at what frequencies do these maximum pressures exist at? Guessing with noise is foolish and expensive. You must quantify and qualify.
If all you want to do is reduce sound pollution so you can record audio podcasts in a small 5x5 space, what would you recommend for a solution under $1,000.00?
I already bought a 6 pack of the producer's choice acoustic blankets that are supposed to arrive tomorrow. It seems that most of the sound pollution in this environment comes through the door, so I'm considering ordering the producer's choice door covering also, but I want to first see what I'm working with when the blankets arrive.
I also bought one of them cheapie $40 microphone sound isolation booths and adhered some mutex to the outside of it. I don't think I'd recommend this approach to anyone by the way. Money would have been better spent on the frame for the blankets or put towards the door cover I'm pretty sure. Anyway..
Although the blankets have a 0.8 NRC they're not going to be able to deal with low frequencies, and even in the mid to upper frequencies they're only going to offer something like 10 db reduction with a single layer. Some of the challenges in this environment consist chiefly of dog barks, dogs playing, dogs walking across hardwood flooring.. but basically the dogs barking in the 1K - 2K frequency range isn't the issue, it's the 60 - 110 db they're capable of producing that is the issue.
I don't own a home or have an office and I certainly cannot afford to go all out and build a room within a room.. I know I cannot have a sound proofed environment, but is there something I can do to give myself another 20 - 30 db of noise reduction for only another $200 - $300?
D, You have two issues to consider: noise transmission and treatment. "Acoustic blankets" I am going to assume is a sound absorption technology. This may or may not provide the proper rates and levels of absorption for your usage. Voice requires specific rates and levels of absorption to maximize definition and separation. Noise coming through a wall or door must be treated with barrier technology. These are separate issues that require separate treatment typologies.
Sir. Which is best damping material for speaker cabinet .. and how much it should be thick .. & should it be stick on all the wall .. using 18inch pro audio driver for home hifi
If you have to calculate the vibrational signature of the cabinet design. Remember when building cabinets just like rooms, noise transmission is all about vibration management.
I have a block factory close to neighbors, they are not complaining yet about the vibrating noise; however, is there anyway I could do something to my fence to reduce that noise to reach them? What can i do?
F, Noise requires measurement of frequency and amplitude. You must identify the problem before you can solve it. Send me photos of the fence, distance to neighbors and a description of the noise source. I will examine the situation so we can then perform noise measurements properly. Send to info@acoiusticfields.com
i want to use electric saws in my apartment. what should i use to prevent the noise from bothering the neighbors?
Hi Wally, What is the frequency and amplitude of the noise from the saws? You have to define your noise issues first. You need to know what frequency and how much energy at each frequency of concern. The barrier technology to stop the noise is built using those numbers. Do you have iphone?
no I am a Droid user but my wife is an iPhone user.
Wally Kellett He forgot to give you any real answer there I see.
For Android/Iphone download Audiotool app or on pc www.roomeqwizard.com/
Next buy s microphone on Amazon the Dayton IMM-6 24$. It comes calibrated.
Time to measure your tools for noise. The most sound is usually the same frequency as the gearbox rpm. Best place to measure is inside a plywood box which is insulated woth rockwool to dampen sound. Or you go outside somewhere quiet where there is no echo and measure the sound.
Wally Kellett Best idea is to dampen the room you want to saw in as best you can floor/ceiling/walls. And also build a fully or partially covered work booth that you've also insulated with rockwool, make sure the worktable you saw on has spring or rubber feet,cuz when you saw into stuff the vibration will travel from table down in the ground
I have a a simple question....i hope someone can answer it...I live in a condo with a shared wall and i want to eliminate the sound of talking from the other side. Will a 5/8 thick sheet of sound proofing drywall added to my existing drywall solve it?
There is no such thing as "sound proofing drywall". What is the frequency and amplitude of the noise? You must measure the noise before you design a proper barrier technology. Is the noise louder on some days? When you design a barrier, you must design for the maximum pressure at all frequencies.
@@AcousticFields no, its a constant level....if i turned the fan higher, i probably wouldnt hear the talking much.......well, soundproof or not, i would imagine that the extra layer would help.
@@GEO-xx6sq Guessing with noise is not recommended. Most guess wrong. make sure you consider the flanking noise in your design. Noise is like water. It will find the weakest link and travel through that structure.
@@AcousticFields thank you
is it two layers of 6cm rockwool enough to stop low frequencies?
No, this material type is not a low-frequency absorber.
What material could block 209hz noise ? I want to stop this sound from entering the room.
R, What is the amplitude or strength of that frequency?
@@AcousticFields i don't know, it's a humming noise. It's not louder than someone speaking but it affects my spleep.
I think it comes from a water treatment station.
Sometimes when i open the windows the "resonance" effect disappears, sometimes is more strong and opening the windows doesnt change it.
Ear plugs (orange ones from 3M) dont work...maybe that sound passes the skull.
I say 209hz because i have a App (hz generator) that when i put that number i cant hear the hum, but when i slightly lower or increase the number i can hear the hum and the sound of my phone.
Hi, what would you suggest to dampen construction sound dampening material?
T, What is your usage?
@@AcousticFields construction vibration.
T, I do not know what that means. Do you have noise measurements?
@@AcousticFields I am planning to soundproof and sound dampening a room as I am absolutely terrified of the noise construction works may create (vibrations, noise etc). The company in question had suggested a laminated parquet + mineral wool solution to the walls. When asked how that would reduce the noise he quoted a reduction of 8-10 decibels. I wonder if its worth doing or whether I have to search for other solutions.
T, There is no way you will receive that reduction with full range construction noise. Companies that use limp mass materials to stop noise are misrepresenting the truth.
So I want to make a cheep DIY collapsible (so portable) audio recording booth. Size is small say 6' tall and 4' by 3'. I'm just recording my voice and want some sound dampening so my microphone doesn't pick up the echo from my room and the cars that drive by my apartment. What is a good and cheep material to use to absorb/damp the outside? Again I can't afford actual Acoustic Foam Panels at this time.
Hi BektostheBlackBlade, Do not build this room size and volume. There is not enough distance to allow for time signature management of reflections and even if you can't hear it, the mics can. I will assist you with new size. Fill out the information in this room form: www.acousticfields.com/free-room-analysis/
Which is a good source of noise reduction a high natural frequency or a low natural frequency?
A, What is the frequency and amplitude of your issue? Material type, amount, and construction methodology depends on frequency and amplitude.
@@AcousticFields Thanks for replying.
I want to know out of different materials if one material has high natural frequency then how is it even related to noise reduction
Any sort of equations?
A, No, all material types are based upon the noise frequency and amplitude we are trying to reduce the transmission of.
@@AcousticFields ok, if we are provided with a material having high natural frequency will it be a good material selection for noise reduction or should we pick the one with lower natural frequency
A, The resonant frequency of each material used is frequency and amplitude dependent of the noise you are dealing with. One material type is never used. It is always a combination of materials to treat noise. You are looking for a simple solution and with noise. There is none.
Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge. I find your videos to be super helpful.
I’m going to be trying to make a budget home studio. I’m planning on adding a second layer of drywall with green glue to my existing walls as well. But before that, I want to blow in some insulation. Do you have a suggestion? I heard fiberglass is best because it is lighter and won’t transfer as much low end energy. But cellulose seems to be what many people are using. On a tight budget. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Greg, I watched some of his other videos and he doesn't recommend drywall. I think he uses 3.8inch plywood. I would contact him and give him more specifics on what you're trying to do before you do it.
I REALLY appreciate your detailed explanation on a field that is SO little understood even by professionals.
I am primarily a musician who at some point decided to build my OWN recording studio in a family neighborhood.
I was fascinated by the physics of "sound" and by the utter ignorance of "sound professionals" regarding sound.
These were the types that put egg crates on the walls or covered the studio with VERY expensive soundex glued to a piece of 1/4 sheet rock . The physics of sound totally absent from their very limited knowledge. Fortunately my first book on studio design contained a DEEP understanding of psycho acoustics and explained IN DETAIL how a poor wall treatment could increase certain frequencies from 50Hz down to subsonic harmonies. I do not know if you recall a popular gizmo that promised the deepest sound you could get in a room WITHOUT speakers. These were plates applied (glued) to walls that could put the walls into sympathetic vibration and the walls acted as the cone of a speaker with frequencies so low they would make you sick. The ONLY benefit of this invention was to tune the plates to achieve phase cancellation on some frequencies so that a different number of damping would not be needed. Before that you had to sandwich layers of panel of specific acoustic resonances to kill a range of very low sounds and it was a mathematical formula that will guide you to the thickness and material of each layer AND the distance between . Since getting exactly what the formula called for many time I had to go for trial and error on the other side of the wall I wanted to dampen. But the "Sound plate" was a quantum leap in sound applications . Put ANY sheet rock wall place plates around it , a mic behind and fire your frequency . By tuning THE WALL you'd see the offending frequency drop at the turn of a knob . This was a god send to engineers , BUT it was a tool of destruction to people at home who wanted to crack the walls of their neighbors.
Do YOU recall this invention and if you do , what the hell ever happened to it?
Thanks - great series ... but complains are mainly voiced by less than neophytes so do NOT loose hope. To some of us this not only brings great memories but a yearning to go back and experience all the new technology that was available and made us magicians , masters of sound.
:)
M, There have been a few tuned resonators through acoustic history. A Helmholtz is a tuned resonator without plates. We use a tuned approach inside the walls. We have pressure mapped over 145 rooms and know frequency / amplitude / position of all unwanted resonances from 30 - 400 Hz. We then apply our carbon diaphragmatic absorber technology between the studs every 14'". We have two frequency ranges that are broadband in our carbon diaphragmatic absorbers. We can use 30 - 50 Hz. or 30 - 400 Hz. depending on frequency and amplitude of the resonance. With a broadband approach, you can cover a lot of fundamentals and harmonics in any room location. I can control rate by varying the carbon amount, cavity depth, and front plate density.
Hmmm .. I guess I was not exposed to that kind of technology since it was way beyond my pay rate :).
I did see Sony Studios building a studio in Cuba (Abdala Studios) Amazing studio no one uses. The layering between the walls was never measured , just dropped in place and isolated on all edges . Barely saw what was being done in the studio itself but THAT side wall was angular with different surfaces. The booth was astounding with the longest windows I had ever see . I was told it was done of SIX sheets of some composite transparent material. Take a look . Best kept secret in the world
www.produccionesabdala.com/en/home/
$50.00 an hour includes accommodations.!
What is the name of your book? Thanks Soundproofing Granahan
Hey, I'm making my room sound proof for video/audio recording. But its on a road with heavy traffic. Can two layers (One of 1.5" foam + thermopore sheet) can block the surrounding noises?
Hi A, Without knowing the frequency and amplitude of the noise, you are just guessing and so would I. In noise issues, guessing is gambling and you will not win. Not only will you not achieve the proper rates and levels of noise reduction, you may build something that has to be torn down in order for proper barrier technology to be employed. We have a seven day noise time study you can use with your iphone to get frequency and amplitude numbers. Shoot me an email.
send me your email id plz
Hi A, info@acousticfields.com
Excellent video
Thank you, Sir.
Glad you liked it!
What material deflects sound without vibrating such as acoustics? I want to deflect it back my direction so I know to use a parabolic curve or circle with the material.
O, What is your intended usage?
is there any material which onlr reduce sounds having db above 60?
S, There are many. What is the frequency and amplitude of your noise issues?
@@AcousticFields In the range of 90-110 db
And frequency 1.4 KHz-5.0 KHz
S, We can design the barrier for you through our design service. We will need to take noise measurements over a seven day time period and then design for maximum pressure. You can take the noise measurements and send us the data. We will send you the structure to build. The design fee for this service is 1,000 USD.
@@AcousticFields will it possible that material will allow sound having db below 60, pass through it?
what would happen, if i put single layer which has the thickness equal to sum of all layers.
Hi Arun, Its the variance in the density of the layers that contributes directly to noise transmission. The density, the method of attachment, versus frequency and amplitude.
when do you say all the materials
V, There is no "all the materials". You must address each noise situation differently depending on the frequency and amplitude of the noise.
so professor . what is the best material for sound adsorption. my roommate is sound and i need to reduce those noise when studying
S, There is no "best" material . You have to match the rate and level of absorption to the noise issue you have.
One question. Let's say you have such a box and there is an engine that makes 32DB sound inside. Whatever the brown colored 1-2cm thick insulating material is, the best sound insulation is provided? If you were, WHAT WOULD YOU CHOOSE that brown material to best insulate the sound? --cork mattress? --fiberglass? ...........
teknoseyir.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/6aae00db077c8ca-608x539.png
There is no best. You must calculate your rate and level requirements for each surface area you are treating and match to usage. There is no one size fits all.
@@AcousticFields 32 db electric motor and fan (air flow) sound. :) What is the most suitable material for this size with a thickness of 2-3cm?
(ONE WALL+10 CM GAP+SECOND WALL ) İS GOOD?
I have a question. Would composite asphalt shingles act as decouples if sandwiched between two pieces of 2x10s or sandwiched between two pieces of sheet rock?
T, What is your objective? Is this a proposed barrier technology ? if so, what frequencies and amplitudes are we dealing with ?
To stop the vibration of one 2x10 from transferring to the next. The frequencies are loud muffler noise. I am going to cover part of the eves with , my plan, with two 2x10s with a decouple sandwiched between them to keep the loud noise from coming in through the eaves or Soffit and into the house. Green Glues is not for exterior use. So I am looking at different methods. Then I have thought would the shingles have the same effect as Green Glue or Mass loaded vinyl between two sheets of sheet rock for the inside of the house? I believe the shingles would be cheaper. What are your thoughts on shingles?
Thank you
T, Without noise measurements of frequency and amplitude, this is a bit of a guess. I would use your method and repeat the sequence so the barrier is at least 3 1/2" think. This is a minimum thickness we use for low-frequency management which would be the case with loud muffler noise. Green glue is not necessary. Any silicon-based adhesive will work.
Thank you
Can metal dampen lethal levels of sound that would rupture organs and if so how thick would the metal have to be? Very heavy I bet.
Jose Ssegovia Metal can be a good barrier material.
Will anything block harassment ultrasonic weapons?
mass and decoupling needed for decoupling
which reduces room echo??
F, Probably not echo but high reverberation times. Sound absorption technology is the chosen treatment method. You must match the rate and level of absorption to the frequency and amplitude of the issues in your room.
Alright well my layman ass doesn't need perfection (nor knows how to measure that stuff), I just want to remove room echo/reverb from my vocal recordings, which I'm getting a lot of right now cuz of my bare walls. I'm a rapper and down to add reverb if needed in mixing. Right now I'm leaning towards spending ~200-300$ on Roxul Safe n' Sound insulation to craft my own panels and create a vocal booth out of them in the middle of my bare-walled bedroom or basement (which would be better?). I'm guessing that'd do the job, right? Also if I just care about vocals, do I need to give a shit about bass traps? Or is mid-high freq absorption enough? Or does it depend on my voice?
I'm also wondering what kind of household objects I could try first instead. Maybe I'll try covering the walls in thick blankets? Or making a vocal booth in the middle of the room out of thick blankets? (Which would be better?) Would that do the job? And what should I look for in a blanket (or whatever household material you suggest) that indicates it'd be good for this?
Hope you get back, I know a lot of other rappers that'd love some confirmation on the effectiveness of these methods, like how they rank with eachother, I'd love to post your feedback on reddit.
Hello, I am currently living in an apartment where I throw parties with my recently graduated friends and my neighbor is starting to complain. I watched another video here on TH-cam describing a cheap solution to making sound panels, that being- making a wood cutout and then filling that with multiple layers of towels. I know that I want dense material to keep the sound in, but do you think the multiple layers of towels would do the trick. I cannot just build a wall, or afford dense materials to put on the wall. Thank you
Hi Jake, Noise transmission issues require barriers to stop the noise. Absorption technology absorbs the energy within a room. Two different technologies with very little overlap. Towels are for bathing only. They have no place in the noise transmission world. You will need to party less and more quietly or build a barrier to keep your party noise inside.
is it X + 1, X + 2, X + 3.....then what? Or is it X + 1, X1 + 2 + X2 + 3?
+Katharine Berrigan Linearity is welcome phenomenon but not the case for all frequencies when it comes to barrier technology. Frequencies below 125 Hz. are more mass dependent and construction methodology oriented. You can determine the mass/frequency ratio but make sure your wall materials "circuit" is congruent in the vibration domain, so you don't "short out" the very vibration/frequency you are trying to isolate from by improper construction methodology. Each wall layer has a vibration objective and each wall layer is built upon each other. It is like baking a layered cake. Each layer has its purpose and function in the final result.
I watched 8373747 videos and read 363873 articles that told me the difference between words and no one has ever told me how to stop the noise from my upstairs neighbours....... Just tell me what material to glue to my damn ceiling!
All noise is composed of frequency and amplitude. You must measure the noise and then assign the correct material type to deal with the frequency and amplitude of the noise. Its a process that starts with identification of the problem. Have you measured your noise issue?
@@AcousticFields It's looooouuud! I can clearly hear words and phone on vibration. Dropping a coin sounds like an explosion. Usually upstairs noise is both airborne and structural. I don't need to identify that, it's both. I really don't need to measure the decibels, what difference does it make if it's 45 or 78 or 89 (for example). I just know that it's unbearable. It's a thin brick+concrete layer. I got an offer from a company but with the money they want I'll buy a mansion in Peru... It's a small room, box in box is not an option. Some say structural noise is dampened by space,other say sound and vibration travel through space so you need hard materials. It's confusing. Which goes first? Cork, rubber,air????
@@alessiasimonne2631 "Loud" is a subective term that has different meanings to different people. Since every material you must use in any barrier design is frequency and amplitude dependent, you must know both. This saves time and money. Guessing with noise is foolish. If you guess wrong, which 90% of clients we work with do, you will have to demo the job and start over. Noise below 125 hz. is treated differently than noise above 125 hz.
Ok but how does glass wool / rock wool work?
E, They are what we call limp mass materials. They absorb energy but not at the rate and level required for music and voice.
great vid!
C, Thank you for your support.
And the materials are?
What are the frequency and amplitude of your noise issues? All material types are directly related to the frequency and amplitude of your noise.
does anybody sell a constrained layer mass damping panel
that integrates in a single panel 3 different damping densities layers?
Easier installation
good explanation..
Thank you for a wonderful video, and for excellent communications when I contacted you for advise.
Keep on the amazing work!!!
SAY you work late on the computer but the Keyboard clacking wakes up the wife... what should I stuff the keyboard with theoretically to stop or reduce the clack
Placing sound absorption treatment as close to energy source is always a good idea.
Thank For this Info, it will certainly Help solve My problems with unwanted sounds.
R, Comprehending the science goes a long way to assist with the understanding of small room acoustics.
isn't the correct word "Damping"?
Hi audiogeekzine Jon, you are correct however people search more for "dampening" so we went with trying to get them to see the video and thus educate them as to the correct terminology through the video presentation. How's the summer in Vancouver this year? Hope all is well.
Thanks
Dennis
Acoustic Fields great job with the marketing insight!! 👍
Mr. Foley(sp?) I appreciate these videos. You get pretty in depth although I wish you had the time to go even more in depth as in a “class” on acoustics. However I do notice that you are very scientific in the way you deliver information by making note of all the grey areas and nuance in the subject matter. Making sure that the audience realizes this is not cut and dry. Although I usually love that approach across the board in any field, ie: nutrition, Psychology, what have you, there comes a point where I really wish you might just throw out some broad general guidelines or advice for maybe at least a handful of scenarios. As an example you might say, “If you were playing drums in a garage and didn’t want any noise complaints you may want to have a separate room within a room or multiple layers of drywall with cotton insulation. Etc. etc. something to that affect. Hopefully what I’m saying makes sense and maybe there is some basic fundamental material(s) that you could safely say will do “x” relatively consistently when used in scenario “x”. Thanks for the free info
K, We have considered that approach but find that it doesn't change belief systems. Every situation is so different. The industry has made a habit of making generalizations and half-truths for so many years that these half-truths are now viewed as facts. Let's use your example to illustrate. Building the barrier you suggested will not stop all the drums. It will only have a partial benefit as it relates to snares and toms. It will have no impact on the kick which is the lowest frequency producing instrument and the noise from just the kick will bother neighbors. Secondly, your barrier design only works at pressure levels below 80 - 85 dB SPL Most drummers play 100 dB + levels. For me to make a generalization about all variables required even to meet a general basis for easy concensus is fraught with disaster.
..you missed sound reflection
Ahhh.... what are the best dampening materials!? Hello!
H, The correct term is damping. It depends on the frequency and amplitude of the noise you are trying to reduce the transmission of.
Acoustic Fields
Thank you for your quick reply, and I apologize for my impulsive outburst.
I have a UPS which is limiting a high pitch coil whine. Extremely annoying! It is driving me mad! The best way I can describe it is a very sharp whistle. I tried to recreate it using my phone with sound generating app it seems to be around 9,230HZ. I'm desperate to either dampen it or totally intimate it if possible. I even found the culprit coil. I'm trying to find ways to either put dampening or sound proof material on the coil, the insides of the UPS case, or put the whole UPS in an enclosure. As for material, I thought of foam, Styrofoam, cardboard, vacuumed glass panels, wood........ still trying to figure out what to do... could you please kindly advise? Cause I'm literally losing my mind from this whistling!
Thank you so much and apologies again.
H, You can use our 2" foam as close to the source as possible.
Thank you kindly
Now, this is a tutorial thanks for your time.
Another great vid :-)
The video title is "What Are The Best Sound Damping Materials & How Do They Work?" Well, guess what. Still waiting to know what are those famous material as none of them are mentioned in the video. That title is 100% clickbait.
There is no one size fits all. This is a common mistake made by individuals. Every material type and every construction methodology is frequency and amplitude dependent. You must first identify the frequency of the noise and then how strong the noise is before you begin the barrier design using the appropriate frequency and amplitude dependent materials.
How do real movie theaters barer sound were can't here the other room at all and they may have a loud movie with subs Gowing down to 23cycles and in the room next you would never know
A, I have never been in such a theater unless it was a stand alone design with no adjacent theaters. There is always some "bleed". Theaters that have favorable dimensions to wave length do much better at less noise transmission.
great video and explanation. thanks dennis
S, You are welcome. If you have any ideas for videos, send me email to: info@acousticfields.com
100mm gap is the best sound protection you will get
R, We need to be careful using words like "best". Everything in acoustics is frequency and amplitude dependent. There is no one size fits all. What works for one group of frequencies, may not work at all for others.
When I searched deflection it gave me absorbing & acoustics for some reason.
O, Deflection is an acoustical issue that involves a series of multiple reflections from a surface area. It would be a cousin of reflection.
Misleading title --No example of Materials
Hi John, The video information shows you that there are no best materials. The materials you use in any barrier are frequency and amplitude dependent. This title was selected to illustrate that you must quantify noise issues and then qualify the type, density, and construction methodology of those materials. It is meant to get you thinking and not blindly accepting a label.
You are incredibly knowledgeable, yet quite lacking as a teacher. As stated elsewhere the title is misleading.
It's hard to explain that which you don't understand yourself. Obviously this dude doesn't have a clue. Waste of time
Clickbait title. Garbage.
Another great vid :-)