I have an L5240 with HST. My driveway is as steep or worse. I go up it in high with auto throttle advance turned ON and allow it to automatically switch between high-fast (rabbit) and high-slow (turtle) - HST mode set to “Auto H-DS”. Can go 12-15mph up the driveway no problem. Play with your HST response dial to get desired effect. I agree with the space for the pin on the top link, very difficult. I’ve replaced the outer bar on the telescopic 3-point stabilizer 3 times over the past 7 years because I too accidentally leave them positioned where they get bent on the backhoe mount. The best addition I have ever made is a hydraulic tip link. A world of difference to be able to adjust length on the fly with a box scraper or put it in free-float mode for bush hogging.
Dude you have it in auto throttle. That's why you can't go fast. Take it off auto and you'll be able to go 16 or so in high. There's throttle on your right side
Thank you for sharing. I have an L3301HST with BH77 backhoe. The little horizontal bar in the middle of its 3 point leveling link gets blocked by the upper pin hole and pad on the backhoe subframe, right when the 3 point hitch is at the right height for connecting or disconnecting an implement. That makes things difficult when I have to adjust the leveling link to line up the 3 point hitch pins, especially on uneven ground. And if I don't have the link rotated so that the bar points fore and aft, it'll hit the backhoe subframe and bend when I raise the implement. So, it's not exactly the same issue that you had with your subframe and your anti-sway link, but my smaller L series also has interference issues between the 3 point hitch and the backhoe subframe. I think I'm going to have to modify my leveling link to work around this. I'm pretty sure that the other commenter who said you're supposed to remove the "orange parts" is mistaken. At least with the BH77 backhoe, the backhoe subframe is supposed to stay on the tractor, and the manual states that only the dealer should remove or install it. My little L3301 also bogs down when driving up the steepest part of my driveway in medium gear at top speed. I either go up in low gear, or back off the accelerator pedal at that point. I'm annoyed about the interference between my backhoe subframe and my 3 point leveling link, and I feel that the factory should have designed that issue out. But otherwise, I'm quite happy with my L3301.
Yes, I'm sure the parking brake is off. if it's still on it it beeps and shows up on the dash. when I did the 50 hour service the hydraulic oil filter had large pieces of metal filings. I believe eventually I will have a hydro pump failure. I did take photos of the filter and take it to my dealer where they took photos and saved the filter.
if you keep the tractor for many many years yes you will eventually have problems like pump failure. everything wears out over time its no different than a manual or gear transmission over time. I honestly wouldn't get caught up on the metal filings, filings are normal, if you have chunks of metal though that's a more immediate problem. this is why the 50 hour service is so critical to get those filings out so they don't cause more damage by staying in there. and as for the wining noise, that is common with hydrostatic transmissions so I wouldn't get upset about that if I were you. just my .02 hopefully it helps some.
Avionictech1978 it’s normal to have a few metal filing of the transmission parts and pumps breaking in and wearing out areas that arnt out of spec and that’s why their is a 50 hour service so you can get all that metal out then after the 50 hour service the trans oil change interval is a lot longer
Did you get your issues resolved ? I got one last fall and I have no problems driving around my field "empty" in high range using the auto throttle. Also mine kills the engine if you try to move with the park brake on. I thought my trans was noisy but it is quite compared to your.
I have a L6060 you will notice two issues with it, The hydro does make a terrible noise, the first L6060 it sounded so bad while mowing grass in M range it sounded like the rearend was going to go out like gears grinding/cavitating hydro, just driving in high range sounded bad too, and the steering problem, while mowing going forward and backing up and steering at the same time its like the hydraulics doesn't have enough volume to supply the hydro and steering at the same time, my second L6060 the transmission sounded alot better then the first L6060 but still didn't sound good but I have about 450 hours on it now and it sounds better now but still have a steering issues, one other problem was the pto did not want to shut off took about 30 seconds, Kubota will tell you there's no problems with them, is BS I have found other tractors problems , I have a 2008 L5740 its the older model of the L6060 , no problems at all with it and its at 1800 hours
Your review was quite good and to the point : All of your actual hours on the tractor as you saw it from a new owner " I am also looking at tractors from a l4240 up to 6060 kubota: Dont under stand why no sun viser and small storage area and no open door light ect:
I have the same rig and have contracted the dealers about it bending the 3 point arm, that is a bad design. Also worried about the backhoe hyd hose being damages by the 3 point.
Excuse me but some of your points don't make sense to me, first off, when your not using our rear hydraulic your supposed to disconnect the lines, NOT leave them hanging. This is basic operating safety for any tractor on the market, and is even noted in the operating guide, at least the one we get here in Norway. Second you are supposed to remove all the orange parts from the backhoe, they are not compatible with the 3 pointer, this is also in the operating guide. You did have a few good points however, and not sure about the US but here in Norway the Bluetooth is an add on, so is the tool box/boxes. And if there was an error with your transmission I hope you got it replaced on warranty cause I've had one of these on loan (an L4060) since I'm thinking about getting a L6060 but thy only had the 4060 available for testing. But it ran great for me, and I live on the west coast of Norway, in the fjords with a lot of steep hills on my farm and had no issues, the one I tested had just over 108 hours on it when I returned. Anyways I hope your happy with your choice.
R3kkr the rear hydraulic hoses are not just hanging they are looped back into themselves (output back into the Input) when the backhoe is off. My frame mount plates for the ba know run the entire length of my tractor are not easily taken off or reinstalled.
Did you ever get your issues resolved? I have been looking at the L6060HSTC with loader and backhoe. The pin didn’t look that bad to me at the dealer but the backhoe frame wasn’t on it. I was concerned about the three point use with the backhoe frame on it after watching your video.
Bob Stubs I have read the manual. I believe that one of the hydro pumps is/was bad from the factory. When I did the 75 hour service it was full of metal shavings. So full in fact that my dealer took photos and sent them to Kubota.
Hmm. You tell this story twice... and differently both times. 50 hr service vs. 75.. and in the video you said you had not had the oil changed yet... in one you say the dealer took photos.. in the other you say YOU took the photos... You do realize people can see these both stories on the same page, right? Not real credible. Oh yeah, and the toolbox and radio are options... shame on you for not researching your tractor before you spent $50k. That being said, thanks for doing the video.
I have an L5240 with HST. My driveway is as steep or worse. I go up it in high with auto throttle advance turned ON and allow it to automatically switch between high-fast (rabbit) and high-slow (turtle) - HST mode set to “Auto H-DS”. Can go 12-15mph up the driveway no problem. Play with your HST response dial to get desired effect.
I agree with the space for the pin on the top link, very difficult.
I’ve replaced the outer bar on the telescopic 3-point stabilizer 3 times over the past 7 years because I too accidentally leave them positioned where they get bent on the backhoe mount.
The best addition I have ever made is a hydraulic tip link. A world of difference to be able to adjust length on the fly with a box scraper or put it in free-float mode for bush hogging.
Dude you have it in auto throttle. That's why you can't go fast. Take it off auto and you'll be able to go 16 or so in high. There's throttle on your right side
I have had more than one tractor with auto throttle what is it good for?
David Wagner keeps from stalling out or when climbing a hill
Great real world review and helpful comments
Thank you for sharing. I have an L3301HST with BH77 backhoe. The little horizontal bar in the middle of its 3 point leveling link gets blocked by the upper pin hole and pad on the backhoe subframe, right when the 3 point hitch is at the right height for connecting or disconnecting an implement. That makes things difficult when I have to adjust the leveling link to line up the 3 point hitch pins, especially on uneven ground. And if I don't have the link rotated so that the bar points fore and aft, it'll hit the backhoe subframe and bend when I raise the implement. So, it's not exactly the same issue that you had with your subframe and your anti-sway link, but my smaller L series also has interference issues between the 3 point hitch and the backhoe subframe. I think I'm going to have to modify my leveling link to work around this.
I'm pretty sure that the other commenter who said you're supposed to remove the "orange parts" is mistaken. At least with the BH77 backhoe, the backhoe subframe is supposed to stay on the tractor, and the manual states that only the dealer should remove or install it.
My little L3301 also bogs down when driving up the steepest part of my driveway in medium gear at top speed. I either go up in low gear, or back off the accelerator pedal at that point.
I'm annoyed about the interference between my backhoe subframe and my 3 point leveling link, and I feel that the factory should have designed that issue out. But otherwise, I'm quite happy with my L3301.
Yes, I'm sure the parking brake is off. if it's still on it it beeps and shows up on the dash. when I did the 50 hour service the hydraulic oil filter had large pieces of metal filings. I believe eventually I will have a hydro pump failure. I did take photos of the filter and take it to my dealer where they took photos and saved the filter.
if you keep the tractor for many many years yes you will eventually have problems like pump failure. everything wears out over time its no different than a manual or gear transmission over time.
I honestly wouldn't get caught up on the metal filings, filings are normal, if you have chunks of metal though that's a more immediate problem. this is why the 50 hour service is so critical to get those filings out so they don't cause more damage by staying in there.
and as for the wining noise, that is common with hydrostatic transmissions so I wouldn't get upset about that if I were you.
just my .02 hopefully it helps some.
Avionictech1978 it’s normal to have a few metal filing of the transmission parts and pumps breaking in and wearing out areas that arnt out of spec and that’s why their is a 50 hour service so you can get all that metal out then after the 50 hour service the trans oil change interval is a lot longer
Did you get your issues resolved ? I got one last fall and I have no problems driving around my field "empty" in high range using the auto throttle. Also mine kills the engine if you try to move with the park brake on. I thought my trans was noisy but it is quite compared to your.
Now please update your review after all time has passed I’m in the market and looking at this same tractor
when using post hole digger, the top link needs to be in the bottom hole.
I have a L6060 you will notice two issues with it, The hydro does make a terrible noise, the first L6060 it sounded so bad while mowing grass in M range it sounded like the rearend was going to go out like gears grinding/cavitating hydro, just driving in high range sounded bad too, and the steering problem, while mowing going forward and backing up and steering at the same time its like the hydraulics doesn't have enough volume to supply the hydro and steering at the same time, my second L6060 the transmission sounded alot better then the first L6060 but still didn't sound good but I have about 450 hours on it now and it sounds better now but still have a steering issues, one other problem was the pto did not want to shut off took about 30 seconds, Kubota will tell you there's no problems with them, is BS I have found other tractors problems , I have a 2008 L5740 its the older model of the L6060 , no problems at all with it and its at 1800 hours
th-cam.com/video/tjO_bPcUBgY/w-d-xo.html
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th-cam.com/video/s0cF8pBdCdQ/w-d-xo.html
Your review was quite good and to the point : All of your actual hours on the tractor as you saw it from a new owner " I am also looking at tractors from a l4240 up to 6060 kubota: Dont under stand why no sun viser and small storage area and no open door light ect:
I have the same rig and have contracted the dealers about it bending the 3 point arm, that is a bad design. Also worried about the backhoe hyd hose being damages by the 3 point.
Excuse me but some of your points don't make sense to me, first off, when your not using our rear hydraulic your supposed to disconnect the lines, NOT leave them hanging. This is basic operating safety for any tractor on the market, and is even noted in the operating guide, at least the one we get here in Norway. Second you are supposed to remove all the orange parts from the backhoe, they are not compatible with the 3 pointer, this is also in the operating guide. You did have a few good points however, and not sure about the US but here in Norway the Bluetooth is an add on, so is the tool box/boxes. And if there was an error with your transmission I hope you got it replaced on warranty cause I've had one of these on loan (an L4060) since I'm thinking about getting a L6060 but thy only had the 4060 available for testing. But it ran great for me, and I live on the west coast of Norway, in the fjords with a lot of steep hills on my farm and had no issues, the one I tested had just over 108 hours on it when I returned. Anyways I hope your happy with your choice.
R3kkr the rear hydraulic hoses are not just hanging they are looped back into themselves (output back into the Input) when the backhoe is off. My frame mount plates for the ba know run the entire length of my tractor are not easily taken off or reinstalled.
are you sure the parking brake is off?
Did you ever get your issues resolved? I have been looking at the L6060HSTC with loader and backhoe. The pin didn’t look that bad to me at the dealer but the backhoe frame wasn’t on it. I was concerned about the three point use with the backhoe frame on it after watching your video.
the dealer has an issue with Kubota warranty or not, field it and let the field fix it.
Dude thats a 4060 not a 6060.
welcome to the new America you can't buy anything that's worth the money you pay except a Henry rifle!
try a higher gear
Read manual about how to run the throttle and transmission. Ugh
Bob Stubs I have read the manual. I believe that one of the hydro pumps is/was bad from the factory. When I did the 75 hour service it was full of metal shavings. So full in fact that my dealer took photos and sent them to Kubota.
Hmm. You tell this story twice... and differently both times. 50 hr service vs. 75.. and in the video you said you had not had the oil changed yet... in one you say the dealer took photos.. in the other you say YOU took the photos... You do realize people can see these both stories on the same page, right? Not real credible.
Oh yeah, and the toolbox and radio are options... shame on you for not researching your tractor before you spent $50k.
That being said, thanks for doing the video.
Sorry but this was not very helpful.