The battery system has a buffer. It purposely doesn't use full capacity and starts to dig into that buffer as time goes by. It makes any early degradation invisible, basically.
That's correct... I did mention that in the video as well. (I think, or maybe it was my battery video) But regardless, if you were to believe what the EV haters say, I still should have seen *some* sign of degradation. The reality is, of all the EV's in the world, including poorly designed ones, and ones in hot climates, degradation still only averages about 10 percent after ten years... And it's getting better all the time.
Correct. The Ioniq has a buffer of ca. 3 KWh. So 100% SOH indicates that actual degradation has not consumed all of these 3 KWh. I.e. actual remaining capacity is at least 90%. Even 10% loss would be acceptable, taking into account the battery is regularly charged to more than 80%.
Some great info in your videos thanks, starting to think I should get a Ioniq over i3, I would be interested to see one of those Tesla bjorn style full discharge degeneration tests on your car.
I have a 2018 Ioniq base EV and it is the best car I have owned as well. I noticed that the 12-volt battery seems to be the original OEM battery. Since no mention of a 12-volt battery replacement, I assume it is the original from the factory? Some owners have been complaining about the 12-volt battery failures on the newer Ioniqs (from Ioniq forums) and it looks like the early versions without Bluelink may be better off.
EV makers have started locking off a section of the battery capacity as a buffer to compensate for battery wear. It'll look like 100% for a long time because only some of the total battery is useable at any given time and the electronics are filling in the worn out capacity with that reserve. It's pretty clever.
@@edsgarage001 I know that's an old comment, but I'd still like to clear up a few misconceptions here. Firstly, the SoH displayed in the BMS readout has nothing to do with degradation. SoH is about cell voltage differences and basically tells you if your battery is likely healthy or about to die. Degradation or remaining capacity can't be obtained from the BMS. It needs to be measured with special equipement going through a full discharge cycle. From experience I would guess the battery in this car has lost more than 5% but less than 10% capacity. The 28kWh Ioniq typically looses about 3% in the first year and then about 1% per year when driving 10-20k km per year. Between 5-10% degradation is not enough to be noticable. Secondly, the buffers don't hide degradation. That's not how they work and not what they are there for. They are intended to protect the battery and they obviously degrade at the same rate as the usable capacity. The 28kWh Ioniq has a total of about 2.5kWh top and bottom buffers. If the battery degrades by 10%, you'll be left with 25kWh usable and 2.2kWh buffers. I agree this is one of the best cars ever made and in many ways objectively the best EV in existence to this day. I put over 250k on mine without the slightest hickup (pads and rotors replaced at 180k and a bunch of wiper blades was all I payed for) or any noticable degradation. It went through almost 1100(!) DC charging sessions and still charging quicker and at higher C rates than most of the current EVs. I sold it and have an Ioniq 5 now, but I still miss it sometimes.
Thanks for this great video!! Much appreciated. I have a question regarding the battery gauge on the right of the instrument panel - is that showing the SOH (state of Health) of the battery (overall condition that degrades over time) OR is that indicating the current charge level (SOC) of the battery (so will that drop to 0 as you drive, then back up as you charge )? I've seen some used ones showing one bar lost and was thinking that the battery condition is one bar worse overall. Also when you say 240V 16A are you referring to the electrical box circuit required or the actual level 2 charger to buy ? Thanks.
Ok so a couple things, SOC stands for "State of charge" which is what's showing on the instrument cluster. Hyundai doesn't show the SOH (state of health) in their EV's, you need to scope it with an OBD2 reader and EV notify or some similar app. Hyundais also don't degrade as quick as most other EV's (especially Nissan leafs) so it's not really an issue to worry about. I use a 16 amp 240v charger, plugged into a 20 amp 240v circuit.
Thanks, Ed! I’m in Langley, not far from you. Where do you suggest for wheels? I’m driving a 2020 Ultimate with about 47k. I’m thinking of putting the new wheels on my summer tires and then the factory ones on my M+S for winter.
Pretty much anywhere that sells wheels will have something for you. If you want the Hyundai logo on the rim, you could check prices at the dealership. We sell wheels at our dealership.
I have an Ioniq 28 KWH Electric vehicle. While attempting to charge my car through AC, the connection failed, and the car did not receive a charge. I encountered the same issue with CCS, despite the cable appearing to be in good condition. It was successfully charging just two days ago. What could be the issue?
Hi Ed I am in Burnaby not far from you. I am buying a 2019 ioniq EV which has 110k Km already is it worth it? And in further if I wanna change the battery how much it will gonna cost me? Thanks
I guess that depends on how much it is. The 19 has a range of 200km on average, or about 165 in the winter. Will that be enough range for you? Don't worry about replacing the battery, you'll never need to. Thanks to our climate being rather mild, it never really gets hot enough for long enough to cause accelerated degradation of the battery. On top of that companies are starting to be able to repair battery packs rather than replace them. We just received information at the dealership that will be receiving training and tools necessary for battery diagnosis and repair. Also keep in mind the battery is warrantied until 160,000 km or 8 years.
Not too bad in some markets. Here in BC you get $8000 in government rebates. The difference only cost me about two years to make up vs an equivalent gas car.
No it isn't.... At least, it wasn't for me. You can raise and lower the driver's seat. But even still, if it blocks out the headlights of the car behind you, that would be great! Less annoying headlights in your eyes
Because I can't be bothered. The OG Ioniq doesn't have a setting for that, so I'd either need a more expensive charging station, or I'd have to setup timed charging, which would never be accurate anyway. The battery never "actually" charges to 100% anyway. Plus after 5.5 years, and 100,000km EV notify and torque both report 100% state of health and i have no noticable degradation based on my average estimated range. I'll be doing a full consumption test soon enough though to confirm what EV notify and torque are reporting.
@@edsgarage001 i know, i have the same car (ioniq 28kwh) with 55k km on it. i only used the default charger that came with the car, and i connected it through a smart plag ( costs 10 dollars). if when i started charging it said 7 hours remaining, i would set the plug to turn off after 4 or 5 hours. takes 5 seconds,very easy to do. the thing is that I have never seen values below 200km, not even in the winter with heating , so I'm afraid that some degradation might have taken place in your battery
@@alexandrutudor9497 I'm still getting up to about 240km in summer doing about 120kph mostly highway driving. In the winter, around 175-180. Nothing's changed for me since I bought it.
@@edsgarage001with ioniq u can charge 100%. Battery has buffer. Full battery is ~31 kwh so u never fully charge it. I bought mine at 28ks km and always charged 100% past 4 years and now at 176k km and still battery soh at 100%
![[UNCUT] ที่นี่ที่แรก ปู - หาญส์ พูดถึงมหากาพย์หนี้สิ้น I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 10 ก.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KDNA9DZ0p4U/mqdefault.jpg)
The battery system has a buffer. It purposely doesn't use full capacity and starts to dig into that buffer as time goes by. It makes any early degradation invisible, basically.
That's correct... I did mention that in the video as well. (I think, or maybe it was my battery video)
But regardless, if you were to believe what the EV haters say, I still should have seen *some* sign of degradation. The reality is, of all the EV's in the world, including poorly designed ones, and ones in hot climates, degradation still only averages about 10 percent after ten years... And it's getting better all the time.
Correct. The Ioniq has a buffer of ca. 3 KWh. So 100% SOH indicates that actual degradation has not consumed all of these 3 KWh. I.e. actual remaining capacity is at least 90%. Even 10% loss would be acceptable, taking into account the battery is regularly charged to more than 80%.
thank you, it's so great to hear from real users instead of fake reviews from paid influencers... :-)
Thx!
Some great info in your videos thanks, starting to think I should get a Ioniq over i3, I would be interested to see one of those Tesla bjorn style full discharge degeneration tests on your car.
I might do something like that once I'm back on my all season tires and factory rims.
Thx for the comment!
I see how you take pride in your great EV. 👍
Thx for the comment!
I have a 2018 Ioniq base EV and it is the best car I have owned as well. I noticed that the 12-volt battery seems to be the original OEM battery. Since no mention of a 12-volt battery replacement, I assume it is the original from the factory? Some owners have been complaining about the 12-volt battery failures on the newer Ioniqs (from Ioniq forums) and it looks like the early versions without Bluelink may be better off.
Thx for the comment!
Yes I've been lucky with my battery, it's still original.
EV makers have started locking off a section of the battery capacity as a buffer to compensate for battery wear. It'll look like 100% for a long time because only some of the total battery is useable at any given time and the electronics are filling in the worn out capacity with that reserve. It's pretty clever.
Yes. For Hyundai, the buffer is approximately 3%
@@edsgarage001 I know that's an old comment, but I'd still like to clear up a few misconceptions here.
Firstly, the SoH displayed in the BMS readout has nothing to do with degradation. SoH is about cell voltage differences and basically tells you if your battery is likely healthy or about to die. Degradation or remaining capacity can't be obtained from the BMS. It needs to be measured with special equipement going through a full discharge cycle. From experience I would guess the battery in this car has lost more than 5% but less than 10% capacity. The 28kWh Ioniq typically looses about 3% in the first year and then about 1% per year when driving 10-20k km per year. Between 5-10% degradation is not enough to be noticable.
Secondly, the buffers don't hide degradation. That's not how they work and not what they are there for. They are intended to protect the battery and they obviously degrade at the same rate as the usable capacity. The 28kWh Ioniq has a total of about 2.5kWh top and bottom buffers. If the battery degrades by 10%, you'll be left with 25kWh usable and 2.2kWh buffers.
I agree this is one of the best cars ever made and in many ways objectively the best EV in existence to this day. I put over 250k on mine without the slightest hickup (pads and rotors replaced at 180k and a bunch of wiper blades was all I payed for) or any noticable degradation. It went through almost 1100(!) DC charging sessions and still charging quicker and at higher C rates than most of the current EVs. I sold it and have an Ioniq 5 now, but I still miss it sometimes.
Hey Ed, thanks for the two very interesting videos on the 28kW Hyundai electric. Is it me or the end of this video is missing?
Oh my gosh.... I didn't even notice that 😬.
Oops.
Oh well, too late now lol
I just hit 280k on my 2021 elantra but its still running good.I live in america
That's a lot of gas 🫤
Thanks for this great video!! Much appreciated. I have a question regarding the battery gauge on the right of the instrument panel - is that showing the SOH (state of Health) of the battery (overall condition that degrades over time) OR is that indicating the current charge level (SOC) of the battery (so will that drop to 0 as you drive, then back up as you charge )? I've seen some used ones showing one bar lost and was thinking that the battery condition is one bar worse overall.
Also when you say 240V 16A are you referring to the electrical box circuit required or the actual level 2 charger to buy ?
Thanks.
Ok so a couple things,
SOC stands for "State of charge" which is what's showing on the instrument cluster. Hyundai doesn't show the SOH (state of health) in their EV's, you need to scope it with an OBD2 reader and EV notify or some similar app.
Hyundais also don't degrade as quick as most other EV's (especially Nissan leafs) so it's not really an issue to worry about.
I use a 16 amp 240v charger, plugged into a 20 amp 240v circuit.
I love my 28 as well, but I had to take it in to get the actuator replaced, faulty actuator and the car would not charge, so far thats it.
Thx for the comment!
How much was replacing the actuator
@@restfulplace3273 here in Australia it was around $600 but it was covered under warranty so did not pay anything
This is a great car!
Thx for the comment!
Thanks, Ed! I’m in Langley, not far from you. Where do you suggest for wheels? I’m driving a 2020 Ultimate with about 47k. I’m thinking of putting the new wheels on my summer tires and then the factory ones on my M+S for winter.
Pretty much anywhere that sells wheels will have something for you.
If you want the Hyundai logo on the rim, you could check prices at the dealership. We sell wheels at our dealership.
@@edsgarage001 thanks! EV specific wheels seem very high priced. I was relieved to hear you only lose about 10km of range
@@brucecairnie3975 yeah, it's not much of an impact. I think the winter tires kill more range then the wheels
Kal tire has some new EV wheels from Nokian with 130,000 tread I just got for my 2020
Wow those wheels make the car not look so wimpy. Nice work!
Lol.. thanks?
My new car is much less wimpy (ioniq 6 ultimate)
I have an Ioniq 28 KWH Electric vehicle. While attempting to charge my car through AC, the connection failed, and the car did not receive a charge. I encountered the same issue with CCS, despite the cable appearing to be in good condition. It was successfully charging just two days ago. What could be the issue?
The plug or the iccu may have issues. Time to take it to the dealership.
Hi Ed I am in Burnaby not far from you. I am buying a 2019 ioniq EV which has 110k Km already is it worth it? And in further if I wanna change the battery how much it will gonna cost me?
Thanks
I guess that depends on how much it is.
The 19 has a range of 200km on average, or about 165 in the winter. Will that be enough range for you?
Don't worry about replacing the battery, you'll never need to. Thanks to our climate being rather mild, it never really gets hot enough for long enough to cause accelerated degradation of the battery.
On top of that companies are starting to be able to repair battery packs rather than replace them.
We just received information at the dealership that will be receiving training and tools necessary for battery diagnosis and repair.
Also keep in mind the battery is warrantied until 160,000 km or 8 years.
The downside is the initial cost of ownership
Not too bad in some markets. Here in BC you get $8000 in government rebates.
The difference only cost me about two years to make up vs an equivalent gas car.
If someone is driving behind you this 'bar' is in the heigt of the headligts of this car behind you.
No it isn't.... At least, it wasn't for me.
You can raise and lower the driver's seat. But even still, if it blocks out the headlights of the car behind you, that would be great! Less annoying headlights in your eyes
@@edsgarage001 ok. for me most of the time it is. But it also depends how far the car is away and what type (small vs. SUV)
Yep
Hi
What is the range on a full charge?
For the 2017 to 2019 models, it's 200km
For the 2020 to 2021 models, it's 274km
Do you still have the H3?
Yessir
80km/h ??~250km range? How it is on 120km/h?
Depends on the time of year, but about 215 at that speed in the spring/ summer.
Dude, why are you keeping your battery at 100% all the time? It's very bad on the long term. Why not 80%?
Because I can't be bothered. The OG Ioniq doesn't have a setting for that, so I'd either need a more expensive charging station, or I'd have to setup timed charging, which would never be accurate anyway.
The battery never "actually" charges to 100% anyway. Plus after 5.5 years, and 100,000km EV notify and torque both report 100% state of health and i have no noticable degradation based on my average estimated range.
I'll be doing a full consumption test soon enough though to confirm what EV notify and torque are reporting.
@@edsgarage001 i know, i have the same car (ioniq 28kwh) with 55k km on it. i only used the default charger that came with the car, and i connected it through a smart plag ( costs 10 dollars). if when i started charging it said 7 hours remaining, i would set the plug to turn off after 4 or 5 hours. takes 5 seconds,very easy to do.
the thing is that I have never seen values below 200km, not even in the winter with heating , so I'm afraid that some degradation might have taken place in your battery
@@alexandrutudor9497 I'm still getting up to about 240km in summer doing about 120kph mostly highway driving. In the winter, around 175-180.
Nothing's changed for me since I bought it.
@@edsgarage001 yeah, that's pretty good. it is an awesome car indeed.
@@edsgarage001with ioniq u can charge 100%. Battery has buffer. Full battery is ~31 kwh so u never fully charge it. I bought mine at 28ks km and always charged 100% past 4 years and now at 176k km and still battery soh at 100%