My lanyard is a DIY dynamic rope (figure 8 and butterfly knot), it is for sure heavier than sling, take more space but I feel safer. It is really easy to do and much cheaper.
I don't find it clear what forces were breaking these lanyards. Were the materials failing before their listed safety ratings? Most dyneema products are rated at 22kn but a shock load can generate insanely strong forces. Dynamic ropes are usually rated at 12kn but absorb shock so they won't have the same force applied in the end. If they did these tests with the weight able to absorb some shock like a human body and attach it with a harness, which will also absorb some shock, I imagine the results would be different. These tests aren't accurate for real world situations. They are a great demonstration of why you don't want to shock load static systems but it doesn't mean static systems are unsafe if they're used properly.
You are absolutely right but testing need to eliminate most as possible any variables to get more constant results. Your point could have been explained in the video. There is also other variables in real life and it is not really good for slings: they are more sensitive to abrasion than ropes, after a while they are not as strong. Strength of a rope is mainly the core, some abrasion will not affect too much. My landyard is DIY with a 10 mm dynamic rope with a butterfly knot for rappelling, I dont like to use it because it is heavier and bigger than sling but I feel safe with it and I am not afraid to sometime move myself at the anchor even if it give some loose on the landyard (still make sure to not put my hips over the anchor for sure).
so the real question what about sewn runners or nylon webbing runner. I guess you are relying on the dynamic nature of the rope to absorb all the force in a fall. I have never taken a fall while belaying but I also kept my tie in tight. This is good information. So why are big names climbing on panties making multi loop laynards.
Their testing is a complete miss in terms of practical and common use of these devices. You aren't supposed to be taking falls on them... stay tied in until you're at the anchor and any one of these devices will be more than good enough. This channel has the absolute worst context around its testing I have seen for a professional organization
Even if these videos have small amount of views they are truly usefull and really well done, please keep them coming !
I've spent days doing some research about the best way to make my own lanyard. Finally, with this video, I got the answer! Thanks a lot!
So you are going with a homemade cut n tied dynamic? What rope thickness?
What mass was used in the falls? To me this seems as pertinent of information as the factor type of the fall.
Hello! I would like to know if a product such as the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust would meat your IDEAL criteria for a dynamic lanyard.
2:50 Is this a knot in the middle? Looks like it broke in the knot
My lanyard is a DIY dynamic rope (figure 8 and butterfly knot), it is for sure heavier than sling, take more space but I feel safer. It is really easy to do and much cheaper.
I'm glad to say I guessed/knew that the Daisy Chain made from multiple loops would fail quicker than the single length chain...
Why did the Grivel daisy appear to be knotted??
+purplemonkeyelephant good question
I think is to show the fact that knot reduces 45% strength, at video breaks only at 600 kN
I saw that too.... I question when companies test other companies gear
Noticed it as well, and guess where when playing it back in slowmo, the daisy breaks? Just below the rightmost knot. Hmmmmm...
@@carlosabellanosa 600kn? almost anything will break at that force
What company makes 120cm sewn dynamic ropes into a sling? Also what is the diameter in mm of this sewn sling @ 1:39min in the video
+SkiKiter after quick search I found Beal are making lanyard products out of dynamic rope. I will be more aware of how I use my slings now.
This is nothing new. However, there is theory and there is reality. People just aren't dying this way.
What is your opinion of the Metolius Dynamic PAS? It is a PAS design, but with dynamic climbing rope for the loops.........
Lien vers la version française du vidéo dans la description SVP! MERCI :-)
which one is the best and safely , what do you recommend ?
scary stuff that the most common used slings dont hold up to a fall well.
Bonjour , jusqu'à quel diamètre minimum de corde dynamique préconisez vous cet usage? Merci
Bonjour , Peut on faire des longes avec des cordes dynamiques à double ? Merci
Bonjour,
oui en mettant la corde en double (comme l'anneau montré dans le tutoriel)
Philippe Batoux
I don't find it clear what forces were breaking these lanyards. Were the materials failing before their listed safety ratings? Most dyneema products are rated at 22kn but a shock load can generate insanely strong forces. Dynamic ropes are usually rated at 12kn but absorb shock so they won't have the same force applied in the end. If they did these tests with the weight able to absorb some shock like a human body and attach it with a harness, which will also absorb some shock, I imagine the results would be different. These tests aren't accurate for real world situations. They are a great demonstration of why you don't want to shock load static systems but it doesn't mean static systems are unsafe if they're used properly.
You are absolutely right but testing need to eliminate most as possible any variables to get more constant results. Your point could have been explained in the video. There is also other variables in real life and it is not really good for slings: they are more sensitive to abrasion than ropes, after a while they are not as strong. Strength of a rope is mainly the core, some abrasion will not affect too much. My landyard is DIY with a 10 mm dynamic rope with a butterfly knot for rappelling, I dont like to use it because it is heavier and bigger than sling but I feel safe with it and I am not afraid to sometime move myself at the anchor even if it give some loose on the landyard (still make sure to not put my hips over the anchor for sure).
.... on another note, who climbs past the belay?
I've seen people do it on multi pitches while trying to get more comfortable
so the real question what about sewn runners or nylon webbing runner. I guess you are relying on the dynamic nature of the rope to absorb all the force in a fall. I have never taken a fall while belaying but I also kept my tie in tight. This is good information. So why are big names climbing on panties making multi loop laynards.
Just me: I hate girth hitches
Their testing is a complete miss in terms of practical and common use of these devices. You aren't supposed to be taking falls on them... stay tied in until you're at the anchor and any one of these devices will be more than good enough. This channel has the absolute worst context around its testing I have seen for a professional organization
Some people will always move too much around the anchor and even sometime pass hips over the anchor, is used to happen and it will happen again.