For a dual z-axis machine (cr-10s) you can use the controls to move the z-axis all the way to the top, apply the oil then auto home the axes. A person might be able to twist both z-screws at the same time by hand but they'll have to realign the x-gantry before printing.
Dust free wipes are better than paper towels. They don’t leave any bits when you wipe. Also, superlube 51004, that you show, is food grade so it is a safer option in case you are touching it often. Great info! Thanks!
I use the Silicone grease. A quick tip when you get your Ender 3 Pro in the mail, the Steel guide Rod is shipped in a plastic tube. Keep that Tube. I cut it in half and I lube the steel rod and then place that plastic protective sleeve over it, and it sits on the brass nut, protecting it from dust and grime. The plastic tube also helps to protect your filament entering into the extruder. ;)
CT Vaughan improvise. Take a paper towel tube and cut it lengthwise and re roll a tube and tape it. You can even use a Manila folder and roll a tube to fit. Use some scotch tape you just want it loose not tight. Something to keep the dust off of it. :)
Grey Ghost Your right it wouldn’t be very visible form the front (especially where I have mine) The paper towel tube would be fine. Thanks for the idea!
I've always used 3 in 1 PTFE lube, it's worked just fine. One of my printers is coming up on 3 years old... I even use it on the rollers, and see less dust buildup... I even still have the original belts on it. I've replaced rollers once.
The "WD" in WD-40 stands for water displacement. For example on older cars if the engine got wet and died, you could pull off the distributor cap and spray inside it with WD-40. It would displace the water and the car would start right up. It may not be the best lube but it's better than nothing.
@@HandeeGaming Yes and no. Yes, because wd-40 has a lubricant line, but no because regular wd-40 doesn't contain lubricant and it could also work as a lubricant remover (so it could be worse)
@@randallporter9707 Nope. Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant. Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal. www.wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts It's a very low viscosity lubricant that can also act like a solvent for tacked, dry, or soiled oils and grease. It's viscosity allows it to penetrate deep into crevasses where it tends to spread and it does not evaporate quickly. By spreading thinly it can act as a superb lubricant for light-contact metals (3d printer's axis are all light contact) because it won't attract dirt or abrasives (it isn't tacky enough for them to stick), and thus, should be re-applied more often than a grease. The movement of the axis will wear thin spots that will need re-application periodically. It's ok for lead screws but rods and rails should be great though you may have to reapply more frequently than an oil but less frequently than a dry product. It will not get thick and congeal this is part of the appeal. You will not see it trapping contaminates on your metal. You can apply it by spraying a bit into a cotton shop towel and rubbing down the rod/rail. For the Z axis soak a bit of the same towel and squeeze it above the axis while it's at the top of it's travel (for the ender 3) then home the printer so it travels through it's full motion. It's also cheap and readily available.
@@attrezzopox Myth: Product marketing departments always tell the truth. Fact: WD40 is a terrible lubricant. Trying to make a multi-use product results in a product which isn't very good at most of the supposed uses. Marketing spiels do not overcome reality.
@@attrezzopox "lubricant that can also act like a solvent for tacked, dry, or soiled oils and grease" That is contradictory. I use WD-40 a lot. It is a CLEANER. It is a DEGREASER. A lubricant is not a solvent. It certainly does penetrate. If you look extremely close after applying it to a piece of metal, you can see a micro flow of WD-40 across the metal surface. The only way WD-40 is a lubricant is if a clean part is a "lubricated" part. Naturally, if the part is clean, it will move easier. And the fact it is wet makes it sort of a lubricant, maybe better than water. I haven't found it useful for preventing rust, either. But I use it for a cleaner, plenty. It is an excellent degreaser, for small parts. At 10 times the cost, WD-40 cuts grease 10 times better than "Purple Power" that is supposed to be a degreaser. Purple Power seems good for occasionally pouring into a window air-conditioner air intake slats to free up the waterway (so far, in my testing, with the air conditioner off of course).
@@AuroraColoradoUSA Like dissolves like. WD-40 can be an effective cleaner and degreaser, you are right. My point was that it does not evaporate or dry quickly... so for light contact surfaces it will work as a lubricant. On a 3d printer you don't need packing grease on the rails. The anti-corrosion properties refer to mainly flash rust. It won't protect your steel sailboat from the ocean but it'll do a fine job on a freshly milled bit of steel stored inside for a year or two. This isn't a binary world, there are measures of grey between doing something perfectly and not at all. WD-40 will act as a thin lubricant for a reasonable amount of time. It will prevent rust in mild environments. But it's also very thin so, for whatever caked up machinery you have to work on, I'm sure it's a fantastic de-greaser. Try telling someone doing fiberglass layup that they can degrease anything with WD-40 and they'll scoff at you. But if you talk to a guy who works on tractors they'll think it's basically magic. As it relates to a 3d printer, WD-40 is not the worst lubricant you could use for a rail. IMHO a thick cakey grease is far worse seeing as over time you'll make a paste between whatever is floating in the air and your grease.
I use lithium based bearing grease (specifically for bearings and such) dry lubes WILL jam up bearings, they will just clump up inside the bearing and jam bearing specific grease is the best, and always apply on the inside so that the dust gasket will keep it in, and the dirt out unless you're in a very dirty environment it won't have problems (you shouldn't have your printer In a place like that anyways, its very bad) just a little grease on the rods (little, as just wiping them down with a bit of grease in your towel) and greasing the inside is the way to go have experienced 0 binding, printer is more silent and the carriages move way smoother, oils just won't lubricate the inside of the bearing, and it will have increased drag
Correction; WD-40 does not "eat away at rust", it's a Water Displacement - "WD" that's where that comes from (the 40 is just the fortieth formula that Rocket Chemical came up with) So yes, it does have an affect on rust, but only in the way that it slows it down because it pushes the water out of the pores of the iron or steel.
I have to say that my father and grandfather as farmers taught me about the benefits of using bees wax, paraffin wax and simple bar soaps. aside from that Teflon and graphite compounds we use now
Paper towel for cleaning any precision machined parts as the steel sliding rods is not a good idea. It may sound silly but dependent on the quality of the paper it will more likely than not scratch the surface - a clean cotton rag is much better.
Actually you shouldn't use paper towel it's a low level abrasive. Wipe new plastic with it. It will leave scratches. I would recommend a micro fiber cloth or any soft cloth. When I was into modelling cars I could sand primer with paper towel. From a certain point of view.
Modifications have an impact too. I put on a belt tension tings on a few days ago and just had to lube the wheel on the Y-axis one. It started to squeak.
I wanted to know and you might want to add to this to your video; which is the best and kind of Oil to use in your Geared Extruder. And should you take it apart from time to time to clean and add more oil.
Nice video, I ordered the good stuff through your link. What about lubricating the extruder? That is where I am getting the squeaking on that wheel. I figure il just squirt some in where metal is sliding on metal.
I'm not sure how easy it is to manually control the Z axis, but if you can run it to the bottom and then to the top you can use the trick from cleaning a lathe lead screw which is to just wrap string around it and then run it which move the string along the entire thread from one end to the other.
Videos looking better and better. Great background! Foreground need a little light. The printer, yea it's black, was in shadow, LED light are dirt cheap. Hey I was a boardchast major in college. The word 'was'. You video's are getting very professional.
Hi Tom, great channel and great videos, I have just ordered an Ender 3 V2.0 from Bangood so now have to wait until around October 27th for it to arrive. Your advice and tips will be invaluable. Thank you.
Hello Tom. What can I use to hidrate the belts? I now I can’t use lubricant on them, but I want to hidrate them and I don’t have a clue what to use. Thanks 🙏🏼
WD-40 isn't the issue. The issue is the classic WD-40 that is only the one of their product to many. WD-40 actually offer PTFE dry lubricant. The brand is probably the most confused by many.
You can get dry lubricant teflon (PTFE) in aerosol cans. Thats ho i reccomend using them. Just make sure you put a couple of layers of newspaper over anything you dont want lubricated. Wait 15 minutes before removing your mask. Also thank you for the WD-40 statement. I worked at a hardware store for 8 years. So many frustrating people who wouldnt listen that its no va lubricant. WD stands for water displacement. Its not even that great at cleaning rust. But more for preventung it. Thats why it comes is gallon canisters. You rub that shit on with a rag. Ever gotten metal parts for something covered in oil? Thats wd 40. Sorry.for ranting.
I'm surprised you don't realize tho that WD40 is just a brand. Sure the classic one is water displacement and degreaser but they also offer various products, including PTFE dry lubricant.
The WD... in WD 40 stands for water displacement. The 40... it was the 40th formula the inventor(s) tried. 😄 The younger generation watching this...like millennials... likely don't know about this but...when I was a teenager in he 80s here in Phoenix...when the Monsoon storms would hit they would flood out the streets. The older cars would drive through these deep puddles and soak their engine compartments and stall out. Me and buddies would push them outta the water, pop off the distributor cap (yes kids, before things like computers and fuel injection in cars) and spray WD 40 in like crazy. Pop the cap back on and car would turn right over. The good people...they drop maybe $5-10 bucks on us and we would split up he proceeds. Fun times! The points would get wet and WD 40...displaced....the water. One summer, I was going to the movies and my old man asked me if I needed money. Told him I was good. He asked....how? So, I told him about our enterprise during the storm that hit the day before. Oh.... he said...that's where my WD 40 went! The SOB shook me down for $5! Ain't no free lunches in life kid... about time you learned. Yea...I did! I learned to keep my big mouth shut and take the money if the cheap bastard was offering! 😜
I usually use WD40 PTFE is this fine? I'm not from the US so maybe they don't sell it there but here in Europe we have grey bottles of WD40 that have PTFE. Thoughts?
@Tom, are you familiar with prolab's PL-100j (the lubricant not construction glue)? Antifriction lubricant. Loosens and protects moving mecanisms and parts. resists heat and cold (-65%C) eliminates dampness and will not damage plastic, rubber, glass or metal. (Sheesh, I sound like an add) Was toying with the idea of using this.
Another nice video. Assembling my new Ender 3 V2 soon (my first 3D printer) - I am following your updated assembly guide. Two quick questions if I may - do you recommend lubricating the Z axis screw for the brand new printer or does it come adequately lubricated from the factory? Also saw your Z-axis issues video - I guess I should loosen the brass coupler screws for the brand new assembly irrespective of any problems - correct? Thanks in advance and keep up the good work.
i dont know if you already have the printer but i have an enter 3 V2 and did not lubricate from factory. It has been just fine for about two years and i am currently watching this as im getting some banding after no use for a few months. so you should be fine to just use it with the factory lubricant already applied.
PTFE dry lubricant from WD40 is perfect. Many don't realise WD40 is just a brand to many product and so many only think they offer a degrease. Use the WD40 PTFE dry lubricant, it's the same than what you see in the video and is perfect for that. Avoid Lithium grease tho, as it will attract dust and going to make it worst fast.
I've got an Ender 5 Plus, which has the 2 long, vertical rods/screws and it's squealing really bad when the bed's going up and down. Any recommendation what lubricant would be best for it? I saw that WD-40 sells a "dry lube" and lubricant with PTFE. Can those be used?
Yes. It's also a brand name now. Just pay attention to which one you get. That said, I wouldn't personally use any of their lines on 3D printers. Other things are fine, they also make a fantastic electronics cleaner that cleaned a motherboard that had dirt, dust, superficial rust and mechanics oil on it; made it look brand new. I just don't like their formulations for precision machinery since they're also usually overpriced.
Would it be a bad idea to use the motor to move up and down the z axis after applying lube to top/middle/bottom? Would it be too harsh on the motor or anything like that?
Nah it's perfect. Some even have gcode template for that. Personally I just move the Z axis by inputing 350 then move the remaining 50 byu incremation of 10mm!
can you recommend a alternative to the super lube oil/grease? amazon won't deliver these to my location and local stores don't carry these (or at least the brand). I'll go with the 3 in 1 if nothing else, thanks.
WD40 is actually a water displacer. That is what its name stands for as well. Water displacement formula no.40. Not a very good lubricant like he said. Its almost as bad as the grease for attracting crud.
I'm in a dusty environment. I have dual lead screws. Would you use the oil or the grease? I'm assuming the reapply time frame would be the same in this situation?
Neither. As I stated above it may be that WD-40 is an ok product for you, but if you know you're in a dusty environment, fine dust I assume, you're far better off with a dry lubricant. Anything wet will tack dust to your axis and eventually it will cake up and act like sandpaper.
On the Ender 3, is there any reason I couldn't use the move z axis menu option to move it up then auto home to move it back down after lubricating the screw instead of turning it by hand?
Which was a good statement so many years ago. Now they offer tons of various lubricant. Don't stay at their "regular" product, they even have PTFE dry lubricant.
He says WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I'm not sure the one you have in the video, but the standard WD40 is multi use and is in fact a lubricant intended for light contact such as 3d printer rails and rods.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 86 | คู่เอก "คมเพชร vs ชาติพยัคฆ์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m3q_dRYDuU8/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.922 | 10 พ.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zmV5HRIxIBI/mqdefault.jpg)
For a dual z-axis machine (cr-10s) you can use the controls to move the z-axis all the way to the top, apply the oil then auto home the axes. A person might be able to twist both z-screws at the same time by hand but they'll have to realign the x-gantry before printing.
Good point, same for the Prusa Mk2/3. :)
you can wipe rods with coffee filters, they are lint free ;)
Nice 👍
Dust free wipes are better than paper towels. They don’t leave any bits when you wipe. Also, superlube 51004, that you show, is food grade so it is a safer option in case you are touching it often. Great info! Thanks!
"superlube 51004, that you show, is food grade"
Yummy?
I use the Silicone grease. A quick tip when you get your Ender 3 Pro in the mail, the Steel guide Rod is shipped in a plastic tube. Keep that Tube. I cut it in half and I lube the steel rod and then place that plastic protective sleeve over it, and it sits on the brass nut, protecting it from dust and grime. The plastic tube also helps to protect your filament entering into the extruder. ;)
Wish I would have seen this when I first bought the printer!
CT Vaughan improvise. Take a paper towel tube and cut it lengthwise and re roll a tube and tape it. You can even use a Manila folder and roll a tube to fit. Use some scotch tape you just want it loose not tight. Something to keep the dust off of it. :)
Thanks! That wouldn’t look quite as good if I kept the original tube but would still do the job
CT Vaughan honestly you can’t see it from the front anyway. You could probably buy those candy pixie sticks. The big ones. Clean it out and use that.
Grey Ghost Your right it wouldn’t be very visible form the front (especially where I have mine) The paper towel tube would be fine. Thanks for the idea!
"Tomb of Horrors" is a really odd namesake considering your videos are ACTUALLY entertaining, engaging, and interesting
As a metallurgical engineer molybdenum is still very challenging to say. MolyD is a common pronunciation for molybdenum disulfide.
Thanks! :D
Yeah lol in my lab we just call it Moly
Your voice is so soothing and calming. Thanks for all your hard work
I've always used 3 in 1 PTFE lube, it's worked just fine. One of my printers is coming up on 3 years old... I even use it on the rollers, and see less dust buildup... I even still have the original belts on it. I've replaced rollers once.
The "WD" in WD-40 stands for water displacement. For example on older cars if the engine got wet and died, you could pull off the distributor cap and spray inside it with WD-40. It would displace the water and the car would start right up. It may not be the best lube but it's better than nothing.
It's not much better than nothing.
Actually “Water Displacement, 40th formula”. Pretty cool story. www.wd40company.com/our-company/our-history/
it does not contain lubricants. it is not appropriate for this job.
@@DonKelleyMusic So, as WD-40 contains multiple lubricants then it does do the job.
@@HandeeGaming
Yes and no.
Yes, because wd-40 has a lubricant line, but no because regular wd-40 doesn't contain lubricant and it could also work as a lubricant remover (so it could be worse)
Thank You for pointing out what WD-40 is really designed for.
WD stands for Water Displacement :)
@@randallporter9707 Nope.
Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.
Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
www.wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts
It's a very low viscosity lubricant that can also act like a solvent for tacked, dry, or soiled oils and grease. It's viscosity allows it to penetrate deep into crevasses where it tends to spread and it does not evaporate quickly.
By spreading thinly it can act as a superb lubricant for light-contact metals (3d printer's axis are all light contact) because it won't attract dirt or abrasives (it isn't tacky enough for them to stick), and thus, should be re-applied more often than a grease. The movement of the axis will wear thin spots that will need re-application periodically.
It's ok for lead screws but rods and rails should be great though you may have to reapply more frequently than an oil but less frequently than a dry product. It will not get thick and congeal this is part of the appeal. You will not see it trapping contaminates on your metal.
You can apply it by spraying a bit into a cotton shop towel and rubbing down the rod/rail. For the Z axis soak a bit of the same towel and squeeze it above the axis while it's at the top of it's travel (for the ender 3) then home the printer so it travels through it's full motion.
It's also cheap and readily available.
@@attrezzopox Myth: Product marketing departments always tell the truth.
Fact: WD40 is a terrible lubricant. Trying to make a multi-use product results in a product which isn't very good at most of the supposed uses. Marketing spiels do not overcome reality.
@@attrezzopox
"lubricant that can also act like a solvent for tacked, dry, or soiled oils and grease"
That is contradictory. I use WD-40 a lot. It is a CLEANER. It is a DEGREASER. A lubricant is not a solvent. It certainly does penetrate. If you look extremely close after applying it to a piece of metal, you can see a micro flow of WD-40 across the metal surface.
The only way WD-40 is a lubricant is if a clean part is a "lubricated" part. Naturally, if the part is clean, it will move easier. And the fact it is wet makes it sort of a lubricant, maybe better than water.
I haven't found it useful for preventing rust, either. But I use it for a cleaner, plenty. It is an excellent degreaser, for small parts. At 10 times the cost, WD-40 cuts grease 10 times better than "Purple Power" that is supposed to be a degreaser. Purple Power seems good for occasionally pouring into a window air-conditioner air intake slats to free up the waterway (so far, in my testing, with the air conditioner off of course).
@@AuroraColoradoUSA Like dissolves like. WD-40 can be an effective cleaner and degreaser, you are right.
My point was that it does not evaporate or dry quickly... so for light contact surfaces it will work as a lubricant.
On a 3d printer you don't need packing grease on the rails.
The anti-corrosion properties refer to mainly flash rust. It won't protect your steel sailboat from the ocean but it'll do a fine job on a freshly milled bit of steel stored inside for a year or two.
This isn't a binary world, there are measures of grey between doing something perfectly and not at all. WD-40 will act as a thin lubricant for a reasonable amount of time. It will prevent rust in mild environments. But it's also very thin so, for whatever caked up machinery you have to work on, I'm sure it's a fantastic de-greaser.
Try telling someone doing fiberglass layup that they can degrease anything with WD-40 and they'll scoff at you. But if you talk to a guy who works on tractors they'll think it's basically magic.
As it relates to a 3d printer, WD-40 is not the worst lubricant you could use for a rail. IMHO a thick cakey grease is far worse seeing as over time you'll make a paste between whatever is floating in the air and your grease.
I use lithium based bearing grease (specifically for bearings and such)
dry lubes WILL jam up bearings, they will just clump up inside the bearing and jam
bearing specific grease is the best, and always apply on the inside so that the dust gasket will keep it in, and the dirt out
unless you're in a very dirty environment it won't have problems (you shouldn't have your printer In a place like that anyways, its very bad)
just a little grease on the rods (little, as just wiping them down with a bit of grease in your towel) and greasing the inside is the way to go
have experienced 0 binding, printer is more silent and the carriages move way smoother, oils just won't lubricate the inside of the bearing, and it will have increased drag
Lithium bearing grease is actually bad for some printers, if it grease too much it's not as good.
Correction; WD-40 does not "eat away at rust", it's a Water Displacement - "WD" that's where that comes from (the 40 is just the fortieth formula that Rocket Chemical came up with)
So yes, it does have an affect on rust, but only in the way that it slows it down because it pushes the water out of the pores of the iron or steel.
Thank you. Exactly.
I have to say that my father and grandfather as farmers taught me about the benefits of using bees wax, paraffin wax and simple bar soaps. aside from that Teflon and graphite compounds we use now
Paper towel for cleaning any precision machined parts as the steel sliding rods is not a good idea. It may sound silly but dependent on the quality of the paper it will more likely than not scratch the surface - a clean cotton rag is much better.
DE3US I used brake cleaner
Oooof, cotton is quite abrasive as well, I used it to polish some meyals to mirror quality for looking at it under the microscope.
Actually you shouldn't use paper towel it's a low level abrasive. Wipe new plastic with it. It will leave scratches. I would recommend a micro fiber cloth or any soft cloth. When I was into modelling cars I could sand primer with paper towel. From a certain point of view.
Thanks. I have an Ender 3 so this was really helpful! Only having to lubricate the z axis will save me a lot of grease!
Modifications have an impact too. I put on a belt tension tings on a few days ago and just had to lube the wheel on the Y-axis one. It started to squeak.
Tri-Flow is another good one...TRI-FLOW SUPERIOR LUBRICANT DRIP BOTTLE is the one you want. Good stuff.
I use white lithium grease on my prusa mini and it works great but yes you will need to clean the dust every week or so
Thanks for the bit about WD-40. Almost put that on my FEP.
I wanted to know and you might want to add to this to your video; which is the best and kind of Oil to use in your Geared Extruder. And should you take it apart from time to time to clean and add more oil.
dry lube...the least sexy lube there is
it's a dry-pop life :)
The ASTM D4172 for WD-40 passed @ 0.70 mm @ 77° F Superlube oil with PTFE Passed @
Nice note on silicone vs ptfe for metal-metal lube. Garage door guy said silicone lube for the main springs every 6mon. Guess I'll change lubes now.
what about the feeder and retraction gears. Mine are already squeaky after a month. What lubricant would you use? Is it ok if it gets on the filament?
thanks for this. my Photon is screeching like a banshee. ordered some synthetic oil.
Your videos are excellent. So glad I found this channel.
Nice video, I ordered the good stuff through your link. What about lubricating the extruder? That is where I am getting the squeaking on that wheel. I figure il just squirt some in where metal is sliding on metal.
Thanks man i've gotten more info that i thought i needed.
I'm not sure how easy it is to manually control the Z axis, but if you can run it to the bottom and then to the top you can use the trick from cleaning a lathe lead screw which is to just wrap string around it and then run it which move the string along the entire thread from one end to the other.
I'll have to try this, thanks!
Videos looking better and better. Great background! Foreground need a little light. The printer, yea it's black, was in shadow, LED light are dirt cheap. Hey I was a boardchast major in college. The word 'was'. You video's are getting very professional.
Very useful info. Greatly explained! Thanks a lot!
I was hoping for a sneak preview of some more of those supportless minis.
We have a very cool sneak preview next week. :)
Hi Tom, great channel and great videos, I have just ordered an Ender 3 V2.0 from Bangood so now have to wait until around October 27th for it to arrive. Your advice and tips will be invaluable. Thank you.
Very informative. My printer and I thank you.
Hello Tom. What can I use to hidrate the belts? I now I can’t use lubricant on them, but I want to hidrate them and I don’t have a clue what to use.
Thanks 🙏🏼
Nice backdrop! Love these vids
Such a smart guy!
Danm my Prusa is 13 months old guess I know what Im doing tomorrow
Same here - October of last year i bought my ender 3 - had no f'n clue i had to grease the zrod. Just had a printer error that brought me to this.
You mentioned sewing machine lube in an earlier vid; thoughts on that? (*sewing, not seeing)
Any thin weight machine oil (like for sewing machines) will work, but you will get the best results with a synthetic oil. :)
May i ask why not use lithium soap for lubrication?
Make sure that you do not let any lube get onto the build plate!o
Your print will not stick.
Happy printing!😁👍
Thank you for the amazing video,
I have a question, Can i use PTFE spray?
Awesome info! I was wondering about wd40 because it’s mentioned in printing groups. I’ll stay away. Thanks!
WD-40 isn't the issue. The issue is the classic WD-40 that is only the one of their product to many.
WD-40 actually offer PTFE dry lubricant. The brand is probably the most confused by many.
You can get dry lubricant teflon (PTFE) in aerosol cans. Thats ho i reccomend using them. Just make sure you put a couple of layers of newspaper over anything you dont want lubricated. Wait 15 minutes before removing your mask. Also thank you for the WD-40 statement. I worked at a hardware store for 8 years. So many frustrating people who wouldnt listen that its no va lubricant. WD stands for water displacement. Its not even that great at cleaning rust. But more for preventung it. Thats why it comes is gallon canisters. You rub that shit on with a rag. Ever gotten metal parts for something covered in oil? Thats wd 40. Sorry.for ranting.
I'm surprised you don't realize tho that WD40 is just a brand. Sure the classic one is water displacement and degreaser but they also offer various products, including PTFE dry lubricant.
I use mineral oil or superlube.
If you have been using grease, can you just switch to oil the next time? Or do you have to do some major cleaning? Nice vid!
I would recommend cleaning the grease off if possible. Only takes a couple minutes with a toothbrush to get most of it. :)
The WD... in WD 40 stands for water displacement. The 40... it was the 40th formula the inventor(s) tried. 😄
The younger generation watching this...like millennials... likely don't know about this but...when I was a teenager in he 80s here in Phoenix...when the Monsoon storms would hit they would flood out the streets. The older cars would drive through these deep puddles and soak their engine compartments and stall out. Me and buddies would push them outta the water, pop off the distributor cap (yes kids, before things like computers and fuel injection in cars) and spray WD 40 in like crazy. Pop the cap back on and car would turn right over. The good people...they drop maybe $5-10 bucks on us and we would split up he proceeds. Fun times! The points would get wet and WD 40...displaced....the water.
One summer, I was going to the movies and my old man asked me if I needed money. Told him I was good. He asked....how? So, I told him about our enterprise during the storm that hit the day before. Oh.... he said...that's where my WD 40 went! The SOB shook me down for $5! Ain't no free lunches in life kid... about time you learned. Yea...I did! I learned to keep my big mouth shut and take the money if the cheap bastard was offering! 😜
What about lubricating x axis? Recommended or not. If yes, what type of lubricant as those rubber wheels seem to be a delicate stuff ;)
A felt wiper, which you add oil to every so often?
Great video!!
I usually use WD40 PTFE is this fine? I'm not from the US so maybe they don't sell it there but here in Europe we have grey bottles of WD40 that have PTFE. Thoughts?
@Tom, are you familiar with prolab's PL-100j (the lubricant not construction glue)? Antifriction lubricant. Loosens and protects moving mecanisms and parts. resists heat and cold (-65%C) eliminates dampness and will not damage plastic, rubber, glass or metal. (Sheesh, I sound like an add)
Was toying with the idea of using this.
Another informative vid, Thank you
How often should I lubricate my Ender...is there an hour count that you usually look for before applying lube?
I just usually do a couple drops once a month or so :)
Another nice video. Assembling my new Ender 3 V2 soon (my first 3D printer) - I am following your updated assembly guide. Two quick questions if I may - do you recommend lubricating the Z axis screw for the brand new printer or does it come adequately lubricated from the factory?
Also saw your Z-axis issues video - I guess I should loosen the brass coupler screws for the brand new assembly irrespective of any problems - correct?
Thanks in advance and keep up the good work.
i dont know if you already have the printer but i have an enter 3 V2 and did not lubricate from factory. It has been just fine for about two years and i am currently watching this as im getting some banding after no use for a few months. so you should be fine to just use it with the factory lubricant already applied.
Is this where you put the drop files for the video called "Ender 3 V2 Easy Bed Leveling?" If so, is this the file: FDG_Bed_Level_190x190 v2.stl
what about wd40 ptfe dry type? Wd 40 litium grease?
PTFE dry lubricant from WD40 is perfect. Many don't realise WD40 is just a brand to many product and so many only think they offer a degrease.
Use the WD40 PTFE dry lubricant, it's the same than what you see in the video and is perfect for that.
Avoid Lithium grease tho, as it will attract dust and going to make it worst fast.
I've got an Ender 5 Plus, which has the 2 long, vertical rods/screws and it's squealing really bad when the bed's going up and down. Any recommendation what lubricant would be best for it? I saw that WD-40 sells a "dry lube" and lubricant with PTFE. Can those be used?
Yes. It's also a brand name now. Just pay attention to which one you get. That said, I wouldn't personally use any of their lines on 3D printers. Other things are fine, they also make a fantastic electronics cleaner that cleaned a motherboard that had dirt, dust, superficial rust and mechanics oil on it; made it look brand new. I just don't like their formulations for precision machinery since they're also usually overpriced.
Is there anywhere else that needs lubricated on the Ender 3? Or just the Z screw?
Love your video!
Would it be a bad idea to use the motor to move up and down the z axis after applying lube to top/middle/bottom? Would it be too harsh on the motor or anything like that?
Nah it's perfect. Some even have gcode template for that. Personally I just move the Z axis by inputing 350 then move the remaining 50 byu incremation of 10mm!
Should one lubricate motor?
can you recommend a alternative to the super lube oil/grease? amazon won't deliver these to my location and local stores don't carry these (or at least the brand). I'll go with the 3 in 1 if nothing else, thanks.
What if I use synthetic car engine oil (5w-30) as lubricant for 3d printer axes?
WD40 is actually a water displacer. That is what its name stands for as well. Water displacement formula no.40. Not a very good lubricant like he said. Its almost as bad as the grease for attracting crud.
WD 40 has a version with ptfe. And yes, its a lubricant
But not the one shown, which is what most people mistakenly believe is a lubricant.
Isn't that little left over unused motor oil in the can the best for metal on metal.
Had anyone good results with WD40 Specialist Dry PTFE Spray?
Hmm. My clone of a clone of a Prusa 3 has a noticeable rumble when the table moves about, when homing and such. No oil needed there?
My X-Axis recently started to squeak near the bearings and no long moves smoothly. Should I lube the bearings?
Try check the rods as well if there are any scratches (usually caused by bad linear bearings)
I'm in a dusty environment. I have dual lead screws. Would you use the oil or the grease? I'm assuming the reapply time frame would be the same in this situation?
Neither. As I stated above it may be that WD-40 is an ok product for you, but if you know you're in a dusty environment, fine dust I assume, you're far better off with a dry lubricant. Anything wet will tack dust to your axis and eventually it will cake up and act like sandpaper.
I'm a little lost. Never mentioned wd-40
hey if I can see the oil is it too much? it wasn't really clear in the video
Yes, if you can see the oil it is too much. :)
Should have seen this video before. I just bought Lithium grease lol.
Some ppl on ultimaker forum said that sewing machine oils work?
Yes, any thin weight machine oil will work.
It work but might attract a bit more dust than PTFE dry lubricant!
This channel name is not gonna cut it, the footage is great, maybe fix your lighting
On the Ender 3, is there any reason I couldn't use the move z axis menu option to move it up then auto home to move it back down after lubricating the screw instead of turning it by hand?
That will work fine too, it's just slower. :)
What about using regular 3 in 1 oil? thanks
That will work fine too. :)
Good but use the dry version, won't attract dust!
WD-40 is for water displacement....it's name WD-40 stands for Water Displacement Formula 40.
Which was a good statement so many years ago.
Now they offer tons of various lubricant. Don't stay at their "regular" product, they even have PTFE dry lubricant.
How often do you do this?
Once a month or so :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors thank you
Jasper Sitwell? Hail Hydra!!
You can say moly-D if you want, we know what you mean. ;)
Are you a haunter as well?
What is a 'haunter'?
Im sorry i hate you now!
You said DAB!
You have Done something illegal
(Btw this is a Joke so please understand that)
i heard sewing machine oil i heard
He says WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
The product I showed in the video is the standard WD-40 that is often mistakenly used as a lubricant, not the one you are referencing.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I am just citing information directly from the manufacturer.
www.wd40.com/faqs
Curious as to where you got yours.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors I'm not sure the one you have in the video, but the standard WD40 is multi use and is in fact a lubricant intended for light contact such as 3d printer rails and rods.
@@zxcasf Not the regular one. But their PTFE dry lubricant is perfect!
sadly i had to use wd40 on mine... because it came with rusty rods, because it is a tronxy :D
In point of fact, WD-40 is a lubricant.
Nope.
Their regular one isn't but they offer tons of lubricant too. They even have PTFE dry lubricant.
Hi Tom! What do you think about this PTFE version of WD40? www.wd40specialist.com/images/product-dry-lube.png
I'M late but yeah, PTFE dry lubricant from WD-40 is perfect.
What about using sewing machine oil, that'll work great, no?
Yes, that will work fine.
VOLUME WARNING jesus