You should out the website or Links were your followers can go buy this products from. I love the wokr you doing. I took my Honda complety apart. Some off you videos been helping lot. 👍🏼
Thanks a lot for following along and really cool to hear that the videos are helping with your Honda. That is a really good suggestion and will look into that in the future when I decide to build a site.
Thanks for watching, it is easier working with someone that does it on a daily basis. I try and always give good people that make things easier for me the credit due. Good to hear you also had the same experience with her.
Excellent work and tutorial. Question? Are you using the hold tite on the final wash down only? I've seen this as recommended by some, and not needed during the blasting process.
That is a really great question! I use it anytime I am spraying the car either blasting or washing. What I remember on the hold tight website it is suppose to be used the entire blast process and stay in the metal as the water is drying to keep the rust from forming. It also says you are suppose to mix it 50:1 dry blasting (I guess some wash after dry blasting) and 100:1 wet blasting. So my thought process and what I was doing was mixing it 100:1 while blasting then trying to get closer to 50:1 before final wash down. I wish I covered that more in the video thanks again for bringing it up.
@@carthageclassiccars Thanks for the reply. Your method makes sense. You are only doing the process once, and the $ spent now can only help to minimize flash rust.
Your workmanship is outstanding. I'll be watching your progress putting the 69 Firebird back together for sure. A couple of questions: Where did you purchase the spray bottle you used for the lacquer thinner? Its just what I need and safer than how I wet a rag from the can to clean metal surfaces. Also, have you compared the quality of PPG's Deltron DP90LF epoxy primer to the PPG Omni you used on this video?
Thank you very much, the sprayer is off amazon Marolex Industry Ergo Acid 2000 Pressure Sprayer. Also I have not done any in dept comparisons of the OMNI and the Deltron, I found something that works well for my setup and have stuck with it without any bad feeback from customers.
Hi. I'm working on a 67 camaro convertible that the entire a pillar and windshield frame is rotted. Dynacorn has a full replacement piece. Do you have any videos showing this? Should I leave it and patch what I can instead?
I don't have an A-pillar video on a F-body but I would at least buy the entire piece and then start cutting what you feel comfortable with. If it is solid underneath you should be able to get away with a patch. It all depends on how bad the rust is weather I would take that piece off or not.
Yes I don't build full cars for the public at this point in time but I mostly try to do everything on my own on a few close friends and family builds. This one being one of the cars I want to say I did almost the entire car as much as possible,
I have used them in the past for small stuff but I didn't even realize they were in Charlotte. Most of the stuff I do is Mopar stuff they don't support but for sure will look into using them more on the GM and Ford stuff. Thanks for the idea!
I don't like using epoxy primers anymore, they are to hard to crack to get a mechanical bond later. Most primer surfaces can go over bare metal these days, much easier to get a mechanical bond later
It is more Challenging to get a mechanical bond and 100% agree with you there but in my opinion its one of the few things that will seal out moisture. I think in the long term prevent rust the epoxy is the way to go especially areas that won't need a top coat under the roof skin in this case and the out portion of the inner structure.. A lot of times I will run a DA over the primer and shoot the epoxy again before a 2k or another primer when it still has its chemical bond apply the top coat. Its a waste I know but the idea is restoration is there is a lot of waste but I like the idea of a moisture barrier.
@@carthageclassiccars I do agree with the moisture border, in the restoration business we have so much time before topcoats. I have not personally have had any issues with moisture under the primers yet. But I am keeping a careful eye on it. I have been using epoxy primer for years, I've only recently started to use a primer surface over the bare metal. My paint manufacture claims this will work, I sure hope they're right 😊
@@jags01071 I think the big difference with how I operate in my work is I don't usually do the top coat portion just clean metalwork sealed up. Also I think its always a challenge trying a new process as you need the right owner to work with in case something does not work out so most of the times its easier to stick to what you know has worked in the past. I know sometimes thats not the best way of thinking.
@@carthageclassiccars at my shop I work alone so my projects stay around for a few years, gives me the time to watch what's happening. But I agree it takes the right owner to work with. I have been very lucky in that area. Either way great job with the firebird, coming along very nicely. 👍👍
Great job , take the Nick name of Undertaker, really this cars are junkyard princess😂, and you take the task and do this 🍺. Keep with this profesional Job 🍻
Thorough and concise explanation with outstanding workmanship, Well Done Sir !
Thank you very much!
You should out the website or Links were your followers can go buy this products from. I love the wokr you doing. I took my Honda complety apart. Some off you videos been helping lot. 👍🏼
Thanks a lot for following along and really cool to hear that the videos are helping with your Honda. That is a really good suggestion and will look into that in the future when I decide to build a site.
I commented in one of your previous videos that there was so little of the Firebird left after disassembly. This is definitely a "ground up" build!
Thanks for commenting again yes I agree with you almost at the start from nothing point
Great process, Thanks for sharing. And yes Erin's great, I saved a good amount of money purchasing AMD parts from the Installation Center.
Thanks for watching, it is easier working with someone that does it on a daily basis. I try and always give good people that make things easier for me the credit due. Good to hear you also had the same experience with her.
Excellent job, the best restoration I ve seen so far!!
Thank you very much for the kind words and watching!
You absolutely know what your doing dude....good job...thank you for making these videos I really enjoy watching and learning
You are welcome thanks for watching!
Nice job! Great video! And thanks for the shoutout!!! ;-)
Thank you for your help and welcome!
thanks for another great video
Your welcome!
looks great, our processes are very similar.
Thanks after trying different things and learning the hard way, so far this seems to work well.
Thanks Rick . You the man . 🎉
Appreciate the feedback and you watching.
This I'm looking forward to.. Well done as usual..
Thanks a lot!
It's too bad that these manufacturers never sprayed primer on these internal structures...
Yes I agree, but anything to save a dollar. Plus if you build something that lasts too long people won't come back and keep buying your product.
As always, great video. Thanks for sharing your process. Look forward to your next video for my motivation.👍👍
Thank you
Great video! Very informative.
Glad it was helpful thanks for watching.
@@carthageclassiccars Kids today have it made with TH-cam. I started in the 80s , learned from asking around and hotrod magazines 🤣🤣
@@reavisstockard2994 Yes i remember having tons of hot rod magazines and flipping through them also, the good ol days.
Man you do an awesome job what surprises me you take the patience to explain everything which is amazing hell of a job great video
Thanks a lot its really great hear such positive feedback I appreciate you watching!
Another amazing video
Thank you!
Awesome as always
Thanks!
Did you put that quarter panel brace back on the driver side?
Not yet but I will when the time comes for final assembly
Excellent work and tutorial. Question? Are you using the hold tite on the final wash down only? I've seen this as recommended by some, and not needed during the blasting process.
That is a really great question! I use it anytime I am spraying the car either blasting or washing. What I remember on the hold tight website it is suppose to be used the entire blast process and stay in the metal as the water is drying to keep the rust from forming. It also says you are suppose to mix it 50:1 dry blasting (I guess some wash after dry blasting) and 100:1 wet blasting. So my thought process and what I was doing was mixing it 100:1 while blasting then trying to get closer to 50:1 before final wash down. I wish I covered that more in the video thanks again for bringing it up.
@@carthageclassiccars Thanks for the reply. Your method makes sense. You are only doing the process once, and the $ spent now can only help to minimize flash rust.
Great instruction. Did you spray everything down with the lacquer thinner before you spray the epoxy or just certain areas. Onto episode 4…
Yes I did
Your workmanship is outstanding. I'll be watching your progress putting the 69 Firebird back together for sure. A couple of questions: Where did you purchase the spray bottle you used for the lacquer thinner? Its just what I need and safer than how I wet a rag from the can to clean metal surfaces. Also, have you compared the quality of PPG's Deltron DP90LF epoxy primer to the PPG Omni you used on this video?
Thank you very much, the sprayer is off amazon Marolex Industry Ergo Acid 2000 Pressure Sprayer. Also I have not done any in dept comparisons of the OMNI and the Deltron, I found something that works well for my setup and have stuck with it without any bad feeback from customers.
Hi. I'm working on a 67 camaro convertible that the entire a pillar and windshield frame is rotted. Dynacorn has a full replacement piece. Do you have any videos showing this? Should I leave it and patch what I can instead?
I don't have an A-pillar video on a F-body but I would at least buy the entire piece and then start cutting what you feel comfortable with. If it is solid underneath you should be able to get away with a patch. It all depends on how bad the rust is weather I would take that piece off or not.
Great videos were can I buy one of those shirts
Thank you very much...here is the link
carthage-classic-cars.myspreadshop.com/all
I cant wait to see you fully build this car out...are you going to do interior and all the brake lines and engine ???
Yes I don't build full cars for the public at this point in time but I mostly try to do everything on my own on a few close friends and family builds. This one being one of the cars I want to say I did almost the entire car as much as possible,
@@carthageclassiccars sweet...I will watch every episode...I've watched almost all your videos already good stuff man your really thorough ...
thanks a lot
How come ya don’t use npd, in Charlotte
I have used them in the past for small stuff but I didn't even realize they were in Charlotte. Most of the stuff I do is Mopar stuff they don't support but for sure will look into using them more on the GM and Ford stuff. Thanks for the idea!
@@carthageclassiccars I’ve always bought my stuff from them, seems like pretty good stuff
@@thruitallauto2538 Do you know if they drop ship from the manufacture or actually have a large warehouse with inventory?
@@carthageclassiccars yeah they have a large ware house with inventory, I’m in wv I always drive down get my parts, save shipping
@@carthageclassiccars they sell 60-76 mopar stuff
I will come sweep and scrub your floors for free just to learn from you. I’ll have that Dog Bone Creeper looking like brand new!
haha nice my problem is if someone else is there ill talk about more what I am doing and never get anything done.
I don't like using epoxy primers anymore, they are to hard to crack to get a mechanical bond later. Most primer surfaces can go over bare metal these days, much easier to get a mechanical bond later
It is more Challenging to get a mechanical bond and 100% agree with you there but in my opinion its one of the few things that will seal out moisture. I think in the long term prevent rust the epoxy is the way to go especially areas that won't need a top coat under the roof skin in this case and the out portion of the inner structure.. A lot of times I will run a DA over the primer and shoot the epoxy again before a 2k or another primer when it still has its chemical bond apply the top coat. Its a waste I know but the idea is restoration is there is a lot of waste but I like the idea of a moisture barrier.
@@carthageclassiccars I do agree with the moisture border, in the restoration business we have so much time before topcoats. I have not personally have had any issues with moisture under the primers yet. But I am keeping a careful eye on it. I have been using epoxy primer for years, I've only recently started to use a primer surface over the bare metal. My paint manufacture claims this will work, I sure hope they're right 😊
@@jags01071 I think the big difference with how I operate in my work is I don't usually do the top coat portion just clean metalwork sealed up. Also I think its always a challenge trying a new process as you need the right owner to work with in case something does not work out so most of the times its easier to stick to what you know has worked in the past. I know sometimes thats not the best way of thinking.
@@carthageclassiccars at my shop I work alone so my projects stay around for a few years, gives me the time to watch what's happening. But I agree it takes the right owner to work with. I have been very lucky in that area. Either way great job with the firebird, coming along very nicely. 👍👍
@@jags01071 Thanks a lot and honestly I really appreciate the ideas on something different and welcome it.
69 invisible firebird❤😊😅
That is a great name for it who know it might stick!
Great job , take the Nick name of Undertaker, really this cars are junkyard princess😂, and you take the task and do this 🍺.
Keep with this profesional Job 🍻
Thanks going to try and keep it all going and I like the nick name