I come back to this video every now and then, all I can do is shake my head at these guys stuffing 4 subs underseat with 2k amps and stock electrical. I respect you MBE you speak facts and the truth.
Had 2 Kicker XPL 12s (original ribbed cones) rated at 92db firing up at the glass in a hatchback with around 400 watts. Sounded GREAT. My buddy had 2 of the same but in 15" which were rated at 96db in a S10 Blazer... AWESOME! Great video.
That’s why I tell these kids by my house that want me to build them custom enclosures, to make sure their amplification is on point, or else. Spend the money on quality stuff, and by the way you’re the 1st one in a long time to talk about the slew factor/Damping factor of amplifiers. Thank you bro.
Spoke straight facts. Wanted to get the best bang for my buck. Two CompR 12s in a loaded enclosure did just the trick and didn't need to change my alternator to do it, 1600 watts for a 5ch system is more than enough for my needs.
I miss the 80's an early 90's . Subwoofers were efficient(90+) db's an amplifiers, although less powerful in a two channel chasis, had low amp draw to power those high efficient subs.
That’s right. Damping factor plays a role. I run an audio control LC 1.1500 and the damping factor is about 360 at 2 ohms. I tried different amps to the same sub and the amp with the higher damping factor sounds better and tighter. Cleaner
Yeah, Your making a good point with efficiency of subs. I remember subs in the mid 90's most subs had an efficacy of 90+ db. usually between 94 & 96db / 1m 1w.
imagine that now... im getting a vxf 15 soon i think, and it has a pretty good efficiency of 89.7db, but if it was 96db i could power it easily with a stock electrical and 600 watt amp.
@@bailey2517 You still can, kinda with Sensitivity: 95dB Cerwin Vega SPCL182 Sensitivity: 93.8dB Cerwin Vega SPCL152 They ain't cheap tho, I heard the original ones in person, & I was always impressed.
@@bailey2517 Yea, But you just got to hear them. The originals ones were like SPL & SQL all in one. plus they don't need excessive power to run You will save by not having to buy so much H.O. AlT & Lithium . I remember a guy had 4 Regular 18CV's on a Orion XTR-2250 The Beast Amplifier. & you could hear him for blocks away. they do cost a grip, but most of the flagship OG brands do like these and JLW7 13's...
Amen! Said perfectly. Nobody seems to care about the damping factor and a lot of manufacturers don’t even publish it. Bait and $witch! I have been preaching this for decades also.
Can you offer some advice on what brand amplifier I should be looking at. I got 150 ah and stock alt at the moment. I'm looking for an alt to put in my 99 lumina. Running an sfb 2k on a 15 hd at 1 ohm but I just got a 15 stu avatar rated at 3k rms and gonna put it in a 4.5 cube and tuned around 29 Hertz. Just need good solid amp but I'm overwhelmed on what I should be looking for
Oh man I’ve been out the game for 15 or so years.. I’m blown away by where we’ve gone to.. I mean kicker, and Jl still getting it done with the same stuff as before although I’d argue the v1 versions along most of JL’s line would blow the hell out of these v3.. the w3 being a prime example. Yeah the v3 a little tighter in response but the W3v1 are a staple of great performance at good price. One of the greatest speakers ever made was that $89 12” pioneer sold at Sears and Circuit City. 150rms at 97bd.. they got loud for cheap.. And this new age full bridge shit is garbage.. that’s for dedicated spl vehicles.. you can’t run down the road in summer at 100% power windows down in 110* temps.. you’re shit will clip the fuck out.. all this modern stuff and I’m trying to find some old Jl slash series amps.. I beat the hell out of them 24/7 in florida heat and they always supplied max power.. yeah a $300 Brazilian full bridge might be putting out 3k at 14.8 but those old slash amps will put out above rated power at 100* ambient all day long on just 12v. The old Rockford amps from the 90’s just as good just lacking the 12v power and max power due to technology at the time.. but there is a reason everything from the 90’s and early 2000’s still works and didn’t burn up. As for cone area.. people get confused here not understanding those textures and raised areas of a cone add 15-20% more surface area.. so a 12” with raised sections can actually have more actual usable surface area then a 15” with a smooth cone and concave cap.. the old v1 w3’s blew everyone away dollar for dollar cause they had that large inverted caps in the cone.. hence more surface area.. I’ll never understand why PPI and Soundstream though it was a good idea to use a flat cone.. giving up so much surface area.. this is why garbage speakers like the k9 can hit hard with that textured cone.. it’s adds surface area.. that truck was invented by cerwin Vega early 90’s and they still hit harder then most today on with just 350-500 watts.. I want our stuff back from 20 years ago at today’s prices! We would all be running around hitting 155+ in daily drivers for what we spent back in the day just to get 1000w of clean power to 4 decent subs.. And while I’m in this rant.. I want to know where all the sealed boxes went and why 99% of everything now is bass reflex of one version or another? At people just trying to be loud driving around listening to test tracks all day it do they want a good sounding system that plays the music they listen to? I mean if you running 8’s maybe 10’s for some versions reflex helps you get low and being an 8 they already tight and responsive.. these faults with ported 12’s and 15’s though tuned to 32-33? I mean if you only listen to lil Wayne or mystical you good.. but biggie and pac hit more like 60.. you’re limiting you playlists by soo much this way. Yeah it will get low and get load.. 3-4db but a sealed box is going to play good all day from classical to Wayne.. I used to meter 155.6 on the dash with 4 15 w3’s running off one 1000/1 amp and ran that shit at 76-95% volume 24/7 and still take it to Dayton spring break etc and place 2nd or 3rd almost every comp.. in a vehicle that played everything.. not just 2-3 songs from each album. We need to get back to sealed boxes.. he’ll I’m old enough to remember when we ran 2 12’s one ported one sealed spent months tuning just so we could get the best of both worlds lol.. and yea kickers top lines are still good.. but everything else they make has been complete garbage since they came out with the comp vr4.. every mid to entry level sub and amp since then has been trash.. they still make quality mid grade components and coaxial speakers through although I think JBL, pioneer and spline type S still own that market unless you got deep pockets..I’ll put a $80 JBL off the head unit against almost anything under $300 on an amp.. This half bridge smaller amounts thing has gone too far and this needing 3000k subs or 300w mids is nothing but a marketing game to make money.. I’ll take some 50w door speakers.. 4x75 class A/B amp and throw a few $100 subs on a 500/1 and blow away today’s generation. But he’ll we squaring trucks and throwing subs and 6x9 in the back in sealed boxes like that does anything lol.. people sound pressure has to reflect off a surface before it makes sound.. before that point it’s just pressure and a wave you can’t hear. You have no bass till that wave hits a solid object it can’t pass through and is deflected.. this is why we came up with matting for vehicles years ago.. cause sound still travels through solid surfaces (losing sound) stopping rattles was secondary benefit as vibrations act like out of phase soakers and cancel out sound as well.. we went 2 generations down the road and lost all basic knowledge of sound ways 🤦♂️
I'm with you man. My senior year in high school back in 99/2000 I worked my ass off and bought (4) 12 W3's and (2) ppi 600's then in my front doors I had mb quartz components with a small ppi amp I think it was only like 100 to 150 watts and I hit mid 150's all day everyday and beat the hell out of my shit for like 4 or 5 years until I got married and sold the ride and system. Never a problem and bumped everywhere I went the windshield never stopped breathing! Best subs I ever owned and I've had the 13.5 w7 later in life and I swear those old w3's from back in the day were more efficient and louder!
The alternator doesn't need to output enough to supply the amp at it's max peak output, the battery does that just fine. The amp will not pull max peak power constantly.
Thank you for bringing up damping factor!!! Lotta these newschool manufactures dont give a damn about damping. I call a majority of these new class d's mud amps because they are so mooshy sounding and lack clarity and articulation of the music. Much luv
Alright Now!!! Number 3 in a row I have watched of your videos! I cannot stress this enough that since I have dove head 1st back in the game I have been working on my build, and I went with 2 SA V2 12's yes because it was suggested by a buddy that is str8 up an SPL guy. I like the SPL aspect, but I am also after SQ as well. After getting my electrical upgraded to currently all 1/0, alt upgrade, now 3 AGM's a smart 5k bass amp, now going add a 2nd power run for that amp and obviously have multiple frame grounds and an enclosure I am having shipped to me for me to put together that will have a 31hz being it's sweet spot. It isn't a birch, but a much thicker grade MDF and it will allow me to learn a bit on that end physically also, I am going to slow down a bit, research on some very specific things you describe in combination of the 3 I have watched, why? Because I am not gonna fall into the herd mentality as you describe. I have a fairly sound specific place I want my truck to be and slowing down before all is done is exactly what is needed to "keep it movin'" in the right direction for me! All Respect!!!
sir i still got the old school idq 12 single voice in 1999 and the l jl audio 500/5 i purchased in 2001 very much like what you saying man!! if they do go out, my replacments wont be as high end though cause im order now so i have a kicker 10 inch single svc 4 0hm comp c enclosure its hard for me to choose between a kicker cx400.1 or kenwood excelon 302.1 mono or the alpine mono s60 which would you choose bro! thanks
What specifically about a speaker makes the efficiency rating. I'm guessing movability of the soft parts as well as the flexibility of the soft parts? But with more power requires stronger parts and stronger parts equals heavier your parts
Dam true. I just went from 2 remix 15's to alumapro bp12's "bandpass". The efficiency is 97 "speaker". Only 250 watts each and almost as loud as 3500 watts. The alpine m1000 I have is rated >1000 damping factor and it is clean and loud. MBE is on the money with his words but my numbers are bigger than kicker!!
Man Idk where you from but big bruh I wish we had a go to like you where I’m at cuz these niggas don’t kno shit wen hooking up a system I’m getting my system ran for the sixth time now and I bet it still won’t come back working smh hands down boss man you tha truth 💯💯💯
Hey man wondering if you do anything for Tacoma. Just found your channel and have been looking for an efficient but practical box for my 2021 trd sport
MBEnclocures LLC I was wondering if you knew Kicker makes another brand of car audio called Mohawk subwoofers I looked at there line up. You should test some of there 8s.
I'm going for ONE L7 15 Q 4ohm down to 2ohm with the kicker 1200.1 in a Suburban ..I would like it to be tuned to @33hz ... MBEnclosures is what I believe I need to get the MOST out of that set up
That’s how I got GOT! Bought the cheap power and I’ve had to learn the hard way to beef up my electrical... new alt & batt. I just want some slappin’ lows from a single 12” haha!
I got a 550 watt 12 to match my amp power. They told me it could take 1200 all day and I thought that was a good thing but I could tell I didn’t have enough power to run it. Sounded really good but it didn’t bang. I bit the bullet and bought a more efficient sub instead of upgrading everything else.
@@gregblau8082 that was a money smart move! I ended up doing the opposite... I had the perfect amp/sub combo for my stock electrical but I wanted to be louder. Bought the Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection 12” and noticed the same thing... it wasn’t getting enough power. I had to buy a more powerful amp and upgrade all of my electrical: new alt, batt, and 0/1 gauge wires and now the IA LI 12” slams like nothing I’ve ever heard before. It crushes the lows and is taking well over its 1,000 wrms rating. Not sure if I could get lows like this with stock electrical and efficient subs
Oh, and I cheapes out in the HO alternator and bought a China one on EBay... it dead after 2yrs and now I had to spend a lot of money on a quality one amd have to re-do all my grounds to improve them. I got myself into money pit 😭
Nice I looked at the lethal injection but went ssa demon for the lower rms rating. If I remember right it’s about the same price and weight so I wasn’t surprised it needed more. I might try it in a bigger box whenever I get bored with the American Bass xd I’m running now.
Very few subs today have a high db rating of 88 or better. Cheap D class power today has changed the game. I don't think many sub manufacturers post the efficiency rating hardly anymore. Same for amp thd and slew ratings unfortunately.
Hey man, what so you have to say about MTX Subs? They have some pretty looking subs but whats your thoughts about performance in a regular 4 door sedan?
Alpine needs to enter the convo ...1000 damping factor on the MRX series monoblocks, and one of the reasons I run an MRX-M110 ;) still looking for my holy grail M240 hmu!
Would you design a sub box for 2 sundown sa v2 18s that i could pay for and build the box myself? I know you build them but i also like to attempt things myself more rewarding imo.
I have L7s also i always wondered do u think 8’s square sound like 10 or close? or 12s square sounding close to 15s round sub at the same power? just curious lol
Love ya my man..common sense folks..listen to this man...these funky booty ass amps..brazilian amps..cheap chinese full bridges..nah..high end class d or good old class a/b...
Hey big dog ,how does someone get guns like that 😎I mean what the hell you eating man!!!? But seriously though , effeciency is king and I'm on board with kicker too .fosgate does make good product as well.i just tested a cadence wild beast on my channel and on only 600 watts and was surprised at the output,y'all don't really need to much power to move air,hell I can move a ceiling fan with 600 watts in testing no alt at 12.6 volts ,nmc prismatic battery in a testing setting.so yes this cat is on point.
No... saying the higher the resistance the more control the amp has over the sound quality of the output. But most don’t care so they wire into the dirt just wanting to get all the power they can because subwoofer makes distortion, but it still there. But all this is a matter of opinion. Mine. I say efficient subwoofer and enclosure and you don’t need much power to attain a desired loudness.
Rockford Fosgate also claims 25% more surface area. "These feature VAST technology to increase surface cone area up to 25%" quotation from RF website. How does this compete with a square?
@nate0 good points. But a sundown Zv5 12 on a Sundown SAE 1000 will never sound as good as a JL Audio 13w7 on a JL Audio 1000 RD. The first combo proves your point, it sounds good true. The second combo proves mine. The JL Audio has greater efficiency in the sub and amplifier this superior sound. You will never find any reputable audiophile running Sundown and speak of sound quality but JL Audio is right in the league with Audison, Hybrid Audio Technologies (my home boys😁) , Hertz and the like. Making something loud or SPL is not as hard as making it accurate.
I'm telling you running six highly efficient kicker 12s will beat down so many inefficient double 15 and double 18 setups with "better" ahem, brands, while on less power. Hate away
JL audio makes one of the best high quality subs you can buy. Very expensive subs but if you want quality sound that pounds them you are going have to cough up the 💰
You'll find that this video is actually not accurate as stated. Efficiency for all subs is rated at 1000 hz. That is 10x higher than the highest freq in the sub bass band. So a sub with a high efficiency/sensitivity rating will actually not be highly efficient in the sub bass band. If you doubt this, take a look at SPL vehicles and what subs they use. Not a single one setting records today will be using RF, JL, or Kicker. The whole "power is cheap" argument doesn't hold water. You have to buy subs no matter what, so if it came down to efficiency OR power handling, you'd choose efficiency every time for an spl build... or really any build. Efficiency is going to come down to high motor force and low moving mass. Of course this will raise the FS of the woofer, so it won't play as low but that's how you get an efficient sub. So this video means well and has great intentions, but it's inaccurate. The efficiency rating is worthless for subs.
I come back to this video every now and then, all I can do is shake my head at these guys stuffing 4 subs underseat with 2k amps and stock electrical. I respect you MBE you speak facts and the truth.
This is like going to car audio school, my man is dropping all kinds of knowledge on me!
Man facts
Free audio school at that the best kind
"What is you doin?"
**30sec of the most EPIC pauses in recorded history**
Brilliant
Loved it!
Tffccfg tvg
Had 2 Kicker XPL 12s (original ribbed cones) rated at 92db firing up at the glass in a hatchback with around 400 watts. Sounded GREAT. My buddy had 2 of the same but in 15" which were rated at 96db in a S10 Blazer... AWESOME! Great video.
That’s why I tell these kids by my house that want me to build them custom enclosures, to make sure their amplification is on point, or else. Spend the money on quality stuff, and by the way you’re the 1st one in a long time to talk about the slew factor/Damping factor of amplifiers. Thank you bro.
I went back to Kicker my man, the CVX-12 is a MF’r in a Vented enclosure. Thank you
I’m about to buy a kicker. I had the old competition 15’s from 1992. 3 ft.³ per side sealed. I remember it like it was yesterday...
I had TWO C15's, each in a 2.4ft sealed box getting 100 watts each off of a Phoenix Gold M44 and it sounded quite good!
Spoke straight facts. Wanted to get the best bang for my buck. Two CompR 12s in a loaded enclosure did just the trick and didn't need to change my alternator to do it, 1600 watts for a 5ch system is more than enough for my needs.
Excellent video couldn't be more well explained
I miss the 80's an early 90's . Subwoofers were efficient(90+) db's an amplifiers, although less powerful in a two channel chasis, had low amp draw to power those high efficient subs.
I thought they never went away. Athough I think they mostly exist as 18+in these days.
That’s right. Damping factor plays a role. I run an audio control LC 1.1500 and the damping factor is about 360 at 2 ohms. I tried different amps to the same sub and the amp with the higher damping factor sounds better and tighter. Cleaner
Thanks for the knowledge bro keep em coming do a view on component sets vs having a bunch of coaxial
I had to watch the beginning again, the man said don't take my balls off in front of you tube... hahahahahhaha
You have valid points that make a lot of since. Most people go to the store and talk. Not listen.
Sence
Not being an ass....
@@bobdodge3171 Sense lmao
@@cjon24s69 lol! Yep
Cents
Yeah, Your making a good point with efficiency of subs. I remember subs in the mid 90's most subs had an efficacy of 90+ db. usually between 94 & 96db / 1m 1w.
imagine that now... im getting a vxf 15 soon i think, and it has a pretty good efficiency of 89.7db, but if it was 96db i could power it easily with a stock electrical and 600 watt amp.
@@bailey2517 You still can, kinda with Sensitivity: 95dB Cerwin Vega SPCL182
Sensitivity: 93.8dB Cerwin Vega SPCL152
They ain't cheap tho, I heard the original ones in person, & I was always impressed.
@@johnstarks5323 oh shit thanks bro. Gonna check those out.
@@johnstarks5323 wtfff you weren't kidding even the 15 is more expensive than a sundown zv6 18 😓🤑
@@bailey2517 Yea, But you just got to hear them. The originals ones were like SPL & SQL all in one. plus they don't need excessive power to run You will save by not having to buy so much H.O. AlT & Lithium . I remember a guy had 4 Regular 18CV's on a Orion XTR-2250 The Beast Amplifier. & you could hear him for blocks away. they do cost a grip, but most of the flagship OG brands do like these and JLW7 13's...
Mb is one awesome guy. I have learned alot watching his videos
I been saying this for 20 years,,I'm glad u explained it better than me..on (why 4 1000 watt amps sounds different)
Bigdog speaks sense.Im putting a system in my Montecarlo it's taking time but I'm getting good equipment.
Amen! Said perfectly. Nobody seems to care about the damping factor and a lot of manufacturers don’t even publish it. Bait and $witch! I have been preaching this for decades also.
Can you offer some advice on what brand amplifier I should be looking at. I got 150 ah and stock alt at the moment. I'm looking for an alt to put in my 99 lumina. Running an sfb 2k on a 15 hd at 1 ohm but I just got a 15 stu avatar rated at 3k rms and gonna put it in a 4.5 cube and tuned around 29 Hertz. Just need good solid amp but I'm overwhelmed on what I should be looking for
Wish I would have found your channel sooner
Me to man I'm running probably the most inefficient sub out there. Don't get me wrong they pound, but.all the crap I've had to do to get power...
Oh man I’ve been out the game for 15 or so years.. I’m blown away by where we’ve gone to.. I mean kicker, and Jl still getting it done with the same stuff as before although I’d argue the v1 versions along most of JL’s line would blow the hell out of these v3.. the w3 being a prime example. Yeah the v3 a little tighter in response but the W3v1 are a staple of great performance at good price.
One of the greatest speakers ever made was that $89 12” pioneer sold at Sears and Circuit City. 150rms at 97bd.. they got loud for cheap.. And this new age full bridge shit is garbage.. that’s for dedicated spl vehicles.. you can’t run down the road in summer at 100% power windows down in 110* temps.. you’re shit will clip the fuck out.. all this modern stuff and I’m trying to find some old Jl slash series amps.. I beat the hell out of them 24/7 in florida heat and they always supplied max power.. yeah a $300 Brazilian full bridge might be putting out 3k at 14.8 but those old slash amps will put out above rated power at 100* ambient all day long on just 12v. The old Rockford amps from the 90’s just as good just lacking the 12v power and max power due to technology at the time.. but there is a reason everything from the 90’s and early 2000’s still works and didn’t burn up.
As for cone area.. people get confused here not understanding those textures and raised areas of a cone add 15-20% more surface area.. so a 12” with raised sections can actually have more actual usable surface area then a 15” with a smooth cone and concave cap.. the old v1 w3’s blew everyone away dollar for dollar cause they had that large inverted caps in the cone.. hence more surface area.. I’ll never understand why PPI and Soundstream though it was a good idea to use a flat cone.. giving up so much surface area.. this is why garbage speakers like the k9 can hit hard with that textured cone.. it’s adds surface area.. that truck was invented by cerwin Vega early 90’s and they still hit harder then most today on with just 350-500 watts.. I want our stuff back from 20 years ago at today’s prices! We would all be running around hitting 155+ in daily drivers for what we spent back in the day just to get 1000w of clean power to 4 decent subs..
And while I’m in this rant.. I want to know where all the sealed boxes went and why 99% of everything now is bass reflex of one version or another? At people just trying to be loud driving around listening to test tracks all day it do they want a good sounding system that plays the music they listen to? I mean if you running 8’s maybe 10’s for some versions reflex helps you get low and being an 8 they already tight and responsive.. these faults with ported 12’s and 15’s though tuned to 32-33? I mean if you only listen to lil Wayne or mystical you good.. but biggie and pac hit more like 60.. you’re limiting you playlists by soo much this way. Yeah it will get low and get load.. 3-4db but a sealed box is going to play good all day from classical to Wayne.. I used to meter 155.6 on the dash with 4 15 w3’s running off one 1000/1 amp and ran that shit at 76-95% volume 24/7 and still take it to Dayton spring break etc and place 2nd or 3rd almost every comp.. in a vehicle that played everything.. not just 2-3 songs from each album. We need to get back to sealed boxes.. he’ll I’m old enough to remember when we ran 2 12’s one ported one sealed spent months tuning just so we could get the best of both worlds lol.. and yea kickers top lines are still good.. but everything else they make has been complete garbage since they came out with the comp vr4.. every mid to entry level sub and amp since then has been trash.. they still make quality mid grade components and coaxial speakers through although I think JBL, pioneer and spline type S still own that market unless you got deep pockets..I’ll put a $80 JBL off the head unit against almost anything under $300 on an amp..
This half bridge smaller amounts thing has gone too far and this needing 3000k subs or 300w mids is nothing but a marketing game to make money.. I’ll take some 50w door speakers.. 4x75 class A/B amp and throw a few $100 subs on a 500/1 and blow away today’s generation. But he’ll we squaring trucks and throwing subs and 6x9 in the back in sealed boxes like that does anything lol.. people sound pressure has to reflect off a surface before it makes sound.. before that point it’s just pressure and a wave you can’t hear. You have no bass till that wave hits a solid object it can’t pass through and is deflected.. this is why we came up with matting for vehicles years ago.. cause sound still travels through solid surfaces (losing sound) stopping rattles was secondary benefit as vibrations act like out of phase soakers and cancel out sound as well.. we went 2 generations down the road and lost all basic knowledge of sound ways 🤦♂️
I'm with you man. My senior year in high school back in 99/2000 I worked my ass off and bought (4) 12 W3's and (2) ppi 600's then in my front doors I had mb quartz components with a small ppi amp I think it was only like 100 to 150 watts and I hit mid 150's all day everyday and beat the hell out of my shit for like 4 or 5 years until I got married and sold the ride and system. Never a problem and bumped everywhere I went the windshield never stopped breathing! Best subs I ever owned and I've had the 13.5 w7 later in life and I swear those old w3's from back in the day were more efficient and louder!
I’d like to meet you . You’re totally right about the jl v1 subs and I still use slash amps in all my cars
Niggas dont like high bass. Fuck that 60hz bs you tb, niggas can still play pac & big jus rebass the song or find one
Preach! My mmats juggernauts have over 93% efficiency and my MMATS LSX amps have damping factors over 1000. People gonna find out!
Very good info here my Sundown U-15 has a sensitivity of 92db. I’m louder with it on less power than I was with my platinum 15 on double the power
I have always looked at my subs sensitivity rating. I started back in the 90s when it was more prevalent.
Yes it was
The alternator doesn't need to output enough to supply the amp at it's max peak output, the battery does that just fine. The amp will not pull max peak power constantly.
Thank you for bringing up damping factor!!! Lotta these newschool manufactures dont give a damn about damping. I call a majority of these new class d's mud amps because they are so mooshy sounding and lack clarity and articulation of the music. Much luv
Alright Now!!! Number 3 in a row I have watched of your videos! I cannot stress this enough that since I have dove head 1st back in the game I have been working on my build, and I went with 2 SA V2 12's yes because it was suggested by a buddy that is str8 up an SPL guy. I like the SPL aspect, but I am also after SQ as well. After getting my electrical upgraded to currently all 1/0, alt upgrade, now 3 AGM's a smart 5k bass amp, now going add a 2nd power run for that amp and obviously have multiple frame grounds and an enclosure I am having shipped to me for me to put together that will have a 31hz being it's sweet spot. It isn't a birch, but a much thicker grade MDF and it will allow me to learn a bit on that end physically also, I am going to slow down a bit, research on some very specific things you describe in combination of the 3 I have watched, why? Because I am not gonna fall into the herd mentality as you describe. I have a fairly sound specific place I want my truck to be and slowing down before all is done is exactly what is needed to "keep it movin'" in the right direction for me! All Respect!!!
Facts 💯! 500 rms to 1000rms is more then enough power for my ears lol👌
My guy he know his fax keep making videos don’t stop ♠️💯
sir i still got the old school idq 12 single voice in 1999 and the l jl audio 500/5 i purchased in 2001 very much like what you saying man!! if they do go out, my replacments wont be as high end though cause im order now so i have a kicker 10 inch single svc 4 0hm comp c enclosure its hard for me to choose between a kicker cx400.1 or kenwood excelon 302.1 mono or the alpine mono s60 which would you choose bro! thanks
What specifically about a speaker makes the efficiency rating. I'm guessing movability of the soft parts as well as the flexibility of the soft parts? But with more power requires stronger parts and stronger parts equals heavier your parts
Excellent video man, thank you!
That first 35 seconds had me trippin..y'all keepin it real damn ridiculous in the ATL-oh
Dam true. I just went from 2 remix 15's to alumapro bp12's "bandpass". The efficiency is 97 "speaker". Only 250 watts each and almost as loud as 3500 watts. The alpine m1000 I have is rated >1000 damping factor and it is clean and loud. MBE is on the money with his words but my numbers are bigger than kicker!!
Man Idk where you from but big bruh I wish we had a go to like you where I’m at cuz these niggas don’t kno shit wen hooking up a system I’m getting my system ran for the sixth time now and I bet it still won’t come back working smh hands down boss man you tha truth 💯💯💯
Thank you man ,thank you for the truth
Intro still got me hollerin!!!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Dope video 😁🫡👑
9:30 lol.These young bass heads need that though love
Hey man wondering if you do anything for Tacoma. Just found your channel and have been looking for an efficient but practical box for my 2021 trd sport
LOL WHAT ARE YOU DOING.. MAN I'VE LEARN ALOT WATCHING YOU.
MBEnclocures LLC I was wondering if you knew Kicker makes another brand of car audio called Mohawk subwoofers I looked at there line up. You should test some of there 8s.
I'm going for ONE L7 15 Q 4ohm down to 2ohm with the kicker 1200.1 in a Suburban ..I would like it to be tuned to @33hz ... MBEnclosures is what I believe I need to get the MOST out of that set up
Hey doctor , which 10s subwoofer is more balanced to musical and deep bass
I commented this on another video’s comments too. The L7S have higher sensitivity ratings than the QClass do. Why not use them instead?
What do you think about Reiss audio sensitivity 95db?
Salute!
That’s how I got GOT! Bought the cheap power and I’ve had to learn the hard way to beef up my electrical... new alt & batt. I just want some slappin’ lows from a single 12” haha!
I got a 550 watt 12 to match my amp power. They told me it could take 1200 all day and I thought that was a good thing but I could tell I didn’t have enough power to run it. Sounded really good but it didn’t bang. I bit the bullet and bought a more efficient sub instead of upgrading everything else.
@@gregblau8082 that was a money smart move! I ended up doing the opposite... I had the perfect amp/sub combo for my stock electrical but I wanted to be louder. Bought the Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection 12” and noticed the same thing... it wasn’t getting enough power. I had to buy a more powerful amp and upgrade all of my electrical: new alt, batt, and 0/1 gauge wires and now the IA LI 12” slams like nothing I’ve ever heard before. It crushes the lows and is taking well over its 1,000 wrms rating. Not sure if I could get lows like this with stock electrical and efficient subs
Oh, and I cheapes out in the HO alternator and bought a China one on EBay... it dead after 2yrs and now I had to spend a lot of money on a quality one amd have to re-do all my grounds to improve them. I got myself into money pit 😭
Nice I looked at the lethal injection but went ssa demon for the lower rms rating. If I remember right it’s about the same price and weight so I wasn’t surprised it needed more. I might try it in a bigger box whenever I get bored with the American Bass xd I’m running now.
"Don't take my balls off in front of youtube" 😂😂. But there's great knowledge in this video 👍🏽.
Very few subs today have a high db rating of 88 or better. Cheap D class power today has changed the game. I don't think many sub manufacturers post the efficiency rating hardly anymore. Same for amp thd and slew ratings unfortunately.
What do you think about Deaf Bonce (Apocalypse series)
Check out the Skar EVL 8”. They have an 85 sensitivity rating.
spit coffee out my nose; "Can you say Call the Fire Department?" LOL too funny and SOOOO right
Thanks for the info,I learned something.
OK so I bought a 250 amp altenater for my 2009 impala, how many watt amp should.i be using?????
Hey man, what so you have to say about MTX Subs? They have some pretty looking subs but whats your thoughts about performance in a regular 4 door sedan?
If you had to pick, between inefficient driver and amp to spare money, which would be better?
Very good good video. 👍
I enjoy looking at your videos bro 😎
Behind every great man is a wife shaking her head 🙂
Efficiency is like a sore pecker you just can’t beat it! 😂 thanks for passing on ur knowledge man
Thank you for this information. Sometimes you get caught up in all the bs, and you forget the important things.
Alpine needs to enter the convo ...1000 damping factor on the MRX series monoblocks, and one of the reasons I run an MRX-M110 ;) still looking for my holy grail M240 hmu!
Please test out jbl arena 8s
Always speaking facts!
That’s some good information man
What is the best 8,10, or 12” subs in 2022?
I have had a Zx750. And 2 cvr12s for years now lol I don’t think I have a good enough electrical system for any more power reliably
Would you design a sub box for 2 sundown sa v2 18s that i could pay for and build the box myself? I know you build them but i also like to attempt things myself more rewarding imo.
I would like see MBE put this sun in a larger sealed enclosure to see how low he can make it go while still being efficient
I have L7s also i always wondered do u think 8’s square sound like 10 or close? or 12s square sounding close to 15s round sub at the same power? just curious lol
i ask because people think my 12s sound like 15s or there just surprised there 12s
Hahahaha loved that interaction at the beginning with y’all
What about the massive audio summo 8 is has a sensitivity of 91db
This man's hilarious, and wise! 😆
What subwoofer& would you recommend for a Ls460L (8” subwoofer fits in the rear center deck where the factory mark levinson subwoofer is)
If you get a nice amp all you need is 8” and 500-650 rms
Unless you want to go custom box and all
@@abelscaliber7969 what would you recommend?
Let’s say for example what 8” sub would you use with an S-A60M (Alpine Amp)
Love the video bro! Yeah, Siri a nosy ass broad!🤣
Man this video is so true!!! 😂
1500 is my limit🤣
I need a quote on a box!!!
Love ya my man..common sense folks..listen to this man...these funky booty ass amps..brazilian amps..cheap chinese full bridges..nah..high end class d or good old class a/b...
Aren't some of the JL Audio amps full-bridge
*Deaf Bonce machete fight R 15" is $185 has a spl of 89db*
Hey big dog ,how does someone get guns like that 😎I mean what the hell you eating man!!!? But seriously though , effeciency is king and I'm on board with kicker too .fosgate does make good product as well.i just tested a cadence wild beast on my channel and on only 600 watts and was surprised at the output,y'all don't really need to much power to move air,hell I can move a ceiling fan with 600 watts in testing no alt at 12.6 volts ,nmc prismatic battery in a testing setting.so yes this cat is on point.
Truth🤙
Hey man. Is it a way that we could communicate via cell phone?
Wifey don't play bout that table.. Lol
In the early 90,s i was 5k in my system
Im a sedan
Now 1500 close results....in a dakota
But i would never buy a kicker product...
Wait so what you're saying is get a super huge amp and just wire it to a higher ohm load? .5 stable amp wired to 4 ohms
No... saying the higher the resistance the more control the amp has over the sound quality of the output. But most don’t care so they wire into the dirt just wanting to get all the power they can because subwoofer makes distortion, but it still there. But all this is a matter of opinion. Mine. I say efficient subwoofer and enclosure and you don’t need much power to attain a desired loudness.
i have speaker (subwoofer) witn 90 db, "JD audio 865c"
The audio pipe bdc4 8 has a db of 85
That's pretty low
For a 8 inch? That's highest I've seen
I like them mofos,I know ppl talk about them being budget bangers but the efficiency on them is 85.40
I had my 12 mofo for 5 years different amps and it still pounds to this day!
Fo real I've had my 15's for like around 5 to 6 years to and the still beating down the block
DB Drive WDX G-2 ..... I have 4 in ported box
Rockford Fosgate also claims 25% more surface area. "These feature VAST technology to increase surface cone area up to 25%" quotation from RF website. How does this compete with a square?
P3 12 has 570cm^2 of cone area, L7 has 645
@nate0 good points. But a sundown Zv5 12 on a Sundown SAE 1000 will never sound as good as a JL Audio 13w7 on a JL Audio 1000 RD. The first combo proves your point, it sounds good true. The second combo proves mine. The JL Audio has greater efficiency in the sub and amplifier this superior sound. You will never find any reputable audiophile running Sundown and speak of sound quality but JL Audio is right in the league with Audison, Hybrid Audio Technologies (my home boys😁) , Hertz and the like. Making something loud or SPL is not as hard as making it accurate.
I really like your videos but your volume be low.
If Kicker is the "cone area is king " why isn't Kicker winning car audio competitions ? 🤦🏽♂️
🤔
How efficient is de solo X 18 ????
90db
I'm telling you running six highly efficient kicker 12s will beat down so many inefficient double 15 and double 18 setups with "better" ahem, brands, while on less power. Hate away
What the most efficient subwoofer I've tried researching type it in you get nothing! Please help
JL audio makes one of the best high quality subs you can buy. Very expensive subs but if you want quality sound that pounds them you are going have to cough up the 💰
I don’t know if it’s the most efficient but American Bass xd is rated at 93. Pretty inexpensive and has a good sound.
Sundown Super inefficient Cvx 87.6spl hittin every note Sa 12 84spl sluggish lows crap above 50hz that's tuned at 35hz you choose
Exactly
You'll find that this video is actually not accurate as stated. Efficiency for all subs is rated at 1000 hz. That is 10x higher than the highest freq in the sub bass band. So a sub with a high efficiency/sensitivity rating will actually not be highly efficient in the sub bass band. If you doubt this, take a look at SPL vehicles and what subs they use. Not a single one setting records today will be using RF, JL, or Kicker. The whole "power is cheap" argument doesn't hold water. You have to buy subs no matter what, so if it came down to efficiency OR power handling, you'd choose efficiency every time for an spl build... or really any build. Efficiency is going to come down to high motor force and low moving mass. Of course this will raise the FS of the woofer, so it won't play as low but that's how you get an efficient sub. So this video means well and has great intentions, but it's inaccurate. The efficiency rating is worthless for subs.
😂…No clue
Dam your cool shit dude lol
Man I sho do wish you would design boxes not just build.