Another great video. I've learned a lot from your bee hive building videos. I'd love to see one showing how to build frames. Thanks for all your great work.
Very informative, as I am generally new to carpentry. Most other videos I have found only show the concept of how they made their own version, but do not give the exact measurements.
Really nice video on the making of lap joints! Only common one not there is with a router. Also have done some with a circular saw, but those are not near as accurate for most! Really nice series on the Langstroth hive! Personally I am going with the Layens hive just for a challenge. :)
Keep in mind that when you use a pneumatic staple or nail gun the nail does not force the wood pieces together. If it is critical that the wood surfaces are in full contact you must use clamps. The nails will penetrate into the wood and if there is a gap between the boards that gap will still be there only with a nail through it.
Hi Steve; Is it a crazy idea to combine your plans for the screened bottom board and the hive stand, and create a higher screened bottom board with a 45-degree landing pad? I have a full-fledged hive stand already, so I don't feel I need a stand-alone hive stand, or anything in addition to the bottom board except for the cool landing pad. I suppose there is a question of how complicated or expensive the replacement work will be in a few years. But what else am I missing? Thanks! I love your videos! Steve in Pisgah
Love the videos, can you confirm the sizes of the 10 frame stand & bottom board please because as I understand the size & way of fitting, it makes them short in width( super: 16 1/4” ends + 2x 3/4” sides = 17 3/4”, bottom board & Stand: 16 1/4” wide but recessed into side panels 3/8” = 17”) is the correct? Thanks
I think the dimensions stated are correct. For both the hive stand and bottom board, the final assembled width should be 16-1/4 inches, the same width as the 10-frame hive body. For the bottom board, the assembled frame will be 15-1/2 inches wide. This is 3/4 inch shy of the 16-1/4 inches we need. The frame sits in a 3/8" dado on each side rail. Since the side rail is made from 3/4 inch stock, there will be 3/8 inch added to the width for each of the two side rails. This makes up the 3/4 inch need for the final assembled size. A similar statement can be made for the hive stand. The back board is 15-1/2 inches, again 3/4 inch shy of the full 16-1/4 inches we need. Because the rebate joint add 3/8 inch to the width when assembled, we again end up at 16-1/4 inch total, assembled width. The rebate joint needs to be made on the side boards, not the back board, in order for this to work out. Otherwise, the assembled stand will be too narrow. This is an easy mistake to make, and that is the voice of experience talking. Thanks for the question. Post again if this is not clear.
No. All my minis are the four chambered type described in the video and plans. However I know people who have. In fact, the very earliest minis going back to Brother Adam were, I believe, singles.
Anyone know what the finished thickness of the one by four is? Could be the full one inch or a finished thickness of three quarter inch. Good clip though.
My table saw doesn’t accept dado blades. I have one of those “job site” saws. Ugh. So trying to figure out how to do it without having to do a billion passes. Maybe 2025 will be good enough to me to allow a bigger table saw. But I have other problems that will likely take precedence! Thank you for the videos. I see you haven’t posted for a while. Hope all is well.
I see you did this video for an 8 frame hive. I'm assuming that on a 10 fram hive, the only difference is the width. I'm assuming for a 10 frame hive, the width will be 16 1/4" ?
how are you , If anyone else has going into beekeeping it's worth considering - banfan genie beekeeping (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now)? Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my mate said it worked for them after several failed. The honey is great!
Hi Steve; Is it a crazy idea to combine your plans for the screened bottom board and the hive stand, and create a higher screened bottom board with a 45-degree landing pad? I have a full-fledged hive stand already, so I don't feel I need a stand-alone hive stand, or anything in addition to the bottom board except for the cool landing pad. I suppose there is a question of how complicated or expensive the replacement work will be in a few years. But what else am I missing? Thanks! I love your videos! Steve in Pisgah
Another great video. I've learned a lot from your bee hive building videos. I'd love to see one showing how to build frames. Thanks for all your great work.
Exceptionally detailed and very much appreciated. Thank you for posting.
Thanks for sharing and what an excellent construction!
Thank you so much that I got a good lesson on how to build the board.
Very informative, as I am generally new to carpentry. Most other videos I have found only show the concept of how they made their own version, but do not give the exact measurements.
Wow. what a video! thank you. just thank you! very clear easy to follow. hugely informative! very well done!
Really nice video on the making of lap joints! Only common one not there is with a router. Also have done some with a circular saw, but those are not near as accurate for most! Really nice series on the Langstroth hive! Personally I am going with the Layens hive just for a challenge. :)
Excellent video series thanks for posting it .
Great video, Steve! Thanks.
Excellent video series thanks for posting it : - )
Excellent video. Even I, understand every step.
Keep in mind that when you use a pneumatic staple or nail gun the nail does not force the wood pieces together. If it is critical that the wood surfaces are in full contact you must use clamps. The nails will penetrate into the wood and if there is a gap between the boards that gap will still be there only with a nail through it.
thanks for the videos GREAT INSTRUCTION
Excellent video ;Thanks
Just a suggestion cut your Dado cuts before cutting to length would save a lot of time and prevent any misalignments.
Good video wish i had all the tools to do the same job LOL maybe one day .
Awesome video.
excellent construction!!!
Test cuts are always good
Hi Steve;
Is it a crazy idea to combine your plans for the screened bottom board and the hive stand, and create a higher screened bottom board with a 45-degree landing pad? I have a full-fledged hive stand already, so I don't feel I need a stand-alone hive stand, or anything in addition to the bottom board except for the cool landing pad. I suppose there is a question of how complicated or expensive the replacement work will be in a few years. But what else am I missing?
Thanks! I love your videos!
Steve in Pisgah
Steven Anderso
Steven Anderso
Love the videos, can you confirm the sizes of the 10 frame stand & bottom board please because as I understand the size & way of fitting, it makes them short in width( super: 16 1/4” ends + 2x 3/4” sides = 17 3/4”, bottom board & Stand: 16 1/4” wide but recessed into side panels 3/8” = 17”) is the correct? Thanks
I think the dimensions stated are correct. For both the hive stand and bottom board, the final assembled width should be 16-1/4 inches, the same width as the 10-frame hive body. For the bottom board, the assembled frame will be 15-1/2 inches wide. This is 3/4 inch shy of the 16-1/4 inches we need. The frame sits in a 3/8" dado on each side rail. Since the side rail is made from 3/4 inch stock, there will be 3/8 inch added to the width for each of the two side rails. This makes up the 3/4 inch need for the final assembled size.
A similar statement can be made for the hive stand. The back board is 15-1/2 inches, again 3/4 inch shy of the full 16-1/4 inches we need. Because the rebate joint add 3/8 inch to the width when assembled, we again end up at 16-1/4 inch total, assembled width. The rebate joint needs to be made on the side boards, not the back board, in order for this to work out. Otherwise, the assembled stand will be too narrow. This is an easy mistake to make, and that is the voice of experience talking.
Thanks for the question. Post again if this is not clear.
Have you made small hives singly? I would like to try that.
No. All my minis are the four chambered type described in the video and plans. However I know people who have. In fact, the very earliest minis going back to Brother Adam were, I believe, singles.
@@beekeepersworkshop Thank you
where are the downloadable plans for this project at?
Thank you very good video very helpfull
Anyone know what the finished thickness of the one by four is?
Could be the full one inch or a finished thickness of three quarter inch.
Good clip though.
+wellusee The thickness is 3/4 of an inch
My table saw doesn’t accept dado blades. I have one of those “job site” saws. Ugh. So trying to figure out how to do it without having to do a billion passes. Maybe 2025 will be good enough to me to allow a bigger table saw. But I have other problems that will likely take precedence!
Thank you for the videos. I see you haven’t posted for a while. Hope all is well.
@@checking_out666 @checking_out666 All is well with the beekeeper. Just hasn't had anything new to say.
I see you did this video for an 8 frame hive. I'm assuming that on a 10 fram hive, the only difference is the width. I'm assuming for a 10 frame hive, the width will be 16 1/4" ?
A video on how you made the jig would be appreciated.
Great video. Thanks.
Very nice!!!
Steve are you still making bee videos. James
Have not done so in a while. I still have a few projects on the list, but I have been otherwise occupied. We will see....
The Mr. Rogers of the bee shop.
😀
Nice! Thanks!!
Your small hive give you honey as well?
Nope. Any honey left when I am done with the minis is stored for the next year.
😅😊
how are you , If anyone else has going into beekeeping it's worth considering - banfan genie beekeeping (Have a quick look on google cant remember the place now)? Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my mate said it worked for them after several failed. The honey is great!
Excellent video series thanks for posting it .
Excellent video series thanks for posting it : - )
Hi Steve;
Is it a crazy idea to combine your plans for the screened bottom board and the hive stand, and create a higher screened bottom board with a 45-degree landing pad? I have a full-fledged hive stand already, so I don't feel I need a stand-alone hive stand, or anything in addition to the bottom board except for the cool landing pad. I suppose there is a question of how complicated or expensive the replacement work will be in a few years. But what else am I missing?
Thanks! I love your videos!
Steve in Pisgah
Excellent video series thanks for posting it : - )