Audi A3 door won't open - diagnosis and repair
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ม.ค. 2020
- Here I work on an #Audi A3 with a #door that won't open. This 2009 Audi A3 1.9 TDi Sportback (8PA model code) had about 150,000 miles and the rear passenger door wouldn't lock (if unlocked) or unlock (if locked). Most of the time it was stuck unlocked. The driver's door and front passenger door also had intermittent locking / unlocking problems.
There were a number of fault codes stored. The video goes on to show inspection of the door #wiring harness and identification of several broken and damaged wires. It goes on to show fixing the problem with a replacement section of wiring harness, spliced onto the existing wires using solder sleeves.
Finally it goes on to confirm fixing of the fault with a functional test and lack of the originally identified fault codes using VCDS.
Replacement wiring harness section:
amzn.to/2MEdrEM
ebay.us/JJadqJ
Tools
Side cutters amzn.to/2ta6zIU
Wire strippers amzn.to/2tfqfv8
Amalgamating tape amzn.to/316l0du
Plastic trim tools amzn.to/2REHpvj
Solder sleeves ebay.us/3Jd2Li
Hot air gun
Cable ties
Torx key or bit set.
Website andrewfixes.com/audi-a3-door-...
#A3 #repair - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Did this today and it fixed my problems with my mirrors, drivers turn signal, window switches, and door locks! Thank you!!
Great to hear, glad it worked. Sounds like yours had even more problems than the one in the video!
Just finished doing my passenger side that didn’t have a working window. Pleased to report everything works! My wires had broken and were incredibly brittle, hopefully it’s a good long term fix (for the passenger side at least). Thanks for taking the time to make the video!
Spot on Andrew, followed your instructions and solved the problem on my daughters audi. Great precise video. Thank you.
That's great to hear, glad it helped!
Cheers Andrew. I am facing exactly the same problem with my Audi A3. The video is really useful and will help me to fix the issue myself. Thanks for providing the links which are also very helpful.
Thanks for your comment Sajid, glad it helped and hope you managed to get yours fixed.
First time I ever saw your cable connectors so thank you for supplying the link there a must have
Very nice clip. I enjoyed how you show the complete process in a straight forward way. If I could make a couple of suggestions. When presented with a pre-wired connector that has different colours, I make a wiring diagram showing the old connector colour and cavity number for the pins, and on the same line the colours of the new connector. It is then simple to follow the diagram when reconnecting. I always prefer crimp connections over solder as they are gas tight and less likely to corrode. I see you are using a Ross-tech system scanner so I know you can afford a proper crimper. The solder melty ones are also likely not allowed under RoHS and the heat required from the gun to melt the solder is drying out the plasticizer in the insulation. Your use of mastic electrical tape is brilliant. It forms a water tight seal to protect the wires and splices from oxidation and corrosion, as well as resistance to abrasion and puncture because it is self healing, and will actually reflow into a hole. You're a good guy Andy.
Thank you for your constructive feedback Ric! Hadn't considered the RoHS implications. I've got a proper crimper but clearly didn't use it here - will try crimped connections next time. Cheers!
Thank you for the helping video! I had exactly the same problem with same car 😎👍🍺
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
My pleasure, glad it was helpful!
Bang on the money with this ..top job ..had the same problem with my Audi
Thanks for this video. It helped me a lot. Great job.
Glad to hear it and thanks for your comment!
This was very helpful, as my audi is having the same problem and all 4 windows don't work so looks like i need a loom kit
Gave an insight into my yeti problem.....door wire connector to modem ...three wires broken ....many thanks ..
Sorry to hear the Yeti has the same problem but glad the video helped. Cheers
40 seconds in. Exactly my problem! Today took some looking on the wires, couldn't find anything major. Tomorrow will continue, hopefully will find the issue
Hope you manage to find the problem. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for sharing !
My pleasure, thanks for your comment 😃
Thanks for the vid 👊🏻
No problem, thanks for your comment 👍
Nice video, good quality content.
That's great to hear, thanks for letting me know!
thx man, this video solved my window
Great! Glad it helped and thank you for taking the time to say so.
I just bought a used a3 07 plate tdi and I didn’t realize that the doors would some times not unlock or lock because when I first test it before I buy it they did work fine but afterwards I start noticing that they wouldn’t sometimes. After seeing your video I had a look at both drivers and passengers door and I found out that on drivers door 3 cables were completely cut off and some broken, and on passengers some of them broken an touching with each other. I have ordered the parts and hopefully the issues will be resolved 🙏
Thank you for sharing 🙏🙏
What would happen is the both rear doors wouldn’t open from inside and the front passenger door wouldn’t unlock from outside. Now I know why when I went over to look at the car before I buy it I noticed the rear window was left completely open..😒 obviously they left it open to be able to open the door from the outside 🤦🏼♂️
Thanks for your comment, hope you managed to get it sorted 👍
Very cheeky on the part of the seller to do this and not tell you!
Nice video. Its de same hvis VW Touran.
Great video would explain my central locking. I also have an issue with the indicator light part not working on the wing mirror would that also be connected ?
Thanks for your video, we have the same issues with no power to driver door. I checked everything i could think of but all ok. I will now check the harness. I'll keep you updated
Thanks, hope you managed to get it fixed.
@@AndrewFixes yep it was a broken harness just like you suggest. Thanks
Andy this is best explanation, but where i can find the cable and plug ?
Thank you 🙏🙏
You're welcome 😊
Hi Andrew. Firstly, great video!
I am looking to replace my two NS door skins on my 8PA 2012 due to damage. Are the wiring looms different for Bose?
Looks like a right pain in the backside.
Hi Andy, I have tried to follow the fix you have demonstrated. The repair kit I had had loads of wires which still had plastic coating on so I didn't cap them. I have finished the job but now I can't open door from inside and having locked the car the driver side lights front and rear are staying on. Any ideas what the problem is? I have 2.0 TDI version of car you were working on in the clip. Thanks Tim
This saved me £60 thanks
Great stuff, thanks for letting me know.
Excellent work! Im checking my rear right door, having the same problem its seems that has any power, only the speaker is working. Im hoping i have the same issue.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, glad it was useful. Hope you manage to get yours sorted out.
@@AndrewFixes not yet, module works fine on the left door, i test left door's module on the right door but nothing happen, i check power on the harness its ok. There are two other cables, red/yellow and violet/white, I dont know how to check if theres any signal or power, can help me?
Hi there Andrew
Many thanks for your response.
I now have another problem after changing the door lock, I have renewed the cable cables like for like and believe it or not I have an extra grey wire coming from the "A" pillar.
Do you have any idea where the extra grey should go.
It is a solid grey as opposed to a grey / another colour
Great vidio Andrew really helpfull my 2009 a3 sportback both front doors wires are badly cracked . So will be joining mine in the near future .What size solder joints did you use on all the wires please?
All the best Matt.
Hi Matt, thanks very much, glad you liked it. I used a mixture of blue, red and white solder sleeves as there are 3 different sizes of wire. I think the blue are 4.5mm, the red 3mm and the white 1.5mm. Cheers.
Thanks I’ve the same problem, where did you get the plug/wires from?
Couldn’t see it in the link
Excellent, I have the same problems with my VW. This is a big help. How long did you spend doing this repair? Subscribed.
Thanks very much, glad it was helpful. Hard to say how long it took, because videoing things always makes them take longer! I'd guess it would take about 2 hours if I just went for it and wasn't making the video.
great video, I like to get the kit you showed in the video, thanks a million...pls send me the link to get the wire kit
Hi, glad you liked it. There are links in the description to the replacement wiring section I used. Thanks
I am completely convinced my issue comes down to inferior lubrication as both my driver's doors have issues! I just yesterday took my back drivers door apart and took out the latch! It was locking with the fob but not unlocking! I would have to pull the inside handle! I took a pair of offset needle nose pliers and gently turned the green rod slightly back and forth. It's the rod that goes between the white plastic housing the motor and the black metal latching part! It's behind a spring under the grey removable outer cover that's held in by a small silver Phillips head screw! It didn't stay fixed for long.. I've taken it out again and drowned it in WD40
Interesting! Thanks for sharing your findings.
Hi Andrew, this is excellent work. Thanks so much for posting this. I have a 2005 A3 & the only door that works is the front passenger side. Am I correct in assuming that this could be the same issue in all the affected doors.? Also in your video your harness had spare wires.? Is it correct to assume that the new kit is made to be more widely compatible? & therefore there will be unused wires. Just want to to understand that bit. Thanks very much.
Hi, thanks very much! It certainly could be the same issue. Hard to say for certain, but it is quite common so worth checking. Also it is fairly easy to slide the wiring bellows back to check (1:23), so worth investigating before taking the door(s) apart. In case it isn't completely clear in the video, problems with the wiring to the front doors can also affect the rear doors. About the wiring harness kit, yes there were some spares. The car I was working on isn't particularly high spec, so I assumed the extra wires were for wider compatibility with other models with extra features. Thanks
thanks for the video. I just changed a door mechanism on passenger side of an Audi RS6 C5 (2003) and once put together, I closed the door, and now cannot open it from the inside or outside whether it's locked or unlocked!! :-( Not sure why, any tips would be helpful. Would it be a software issue or hardware? The old door mechanism worked ok, apart from not latching closed when you closed the door, you had to push and hold it gently before it latched closed.
hi andrew I too have had the same problem with my audi a3 8p,I have repaired the drivers door the same as you,result was good now both drivers side doors work fine,although I have an issue on the passenger front door I was wondering if you had a wiring colour chart at all? the wiring is fine inside the bellows but when i take the door card off there is a grey/blue cable and a blue cable which arnt connected I to the plug ,wound you happen to know the location the cables in the plug so I can re pin them and re fit,I suspect they are part of the central locking as the rear passenger door won't unlock on the key. no problem at all if you cant help,but thought I'd ask as ive tried alot to find the solution many thanks luke
Thank you for the vide👍 only thing is that this cables that are twisted they are for the modules communication (network)lets hope you don’t get something call interference or noice.😊
Hi, yes indeed, I guess I should have twisted the corresponding cables on the repair section. However I'm pleased to report there haven't been any problems 😀
Thanks. Looks like your door is opened wider than usual.
Is there anything else you unbolted to get the door to open that wide.
Any links to correct harness for a 2012 audi a3. 5 door
14:24 Thanks Andrew, how do you remove the purple clip holding the plug in the A pillar?
Do you have the link where you brought the plug from please. And thank you this is extremely helpful
Hi Dale, glad it was helpful. There is a link in the video description for the replacement plug and wiring. Cheers, Andrew
My driver's door only opens/closes with the key. All other doors operate with the central locking, this should fix mine?
It is much easier to replace the whole cablestring all along. It is not that expensive and saves you much time.
hey Andrew I'm having the same problem with my wifes Audi q7 2009 is there any links to buy this product for the u.s
Good day to all.just would like to know if this plug would fit Audi A3 2011 the drivers is on the left I’m in Quebec Canada..thank you
My driver door won't open unless I use the key to open it manually, it does close it from remote though. Is it possible to have some wires cracked?
Hi very good work! But im wondering if the colors are not the same how to know wiche ones to connect?? Could you explain maybe thanks
Hi, thank you. You can get the connections right by comparing the wire colours and positions between the old plug and new plug. So as an example if pin 1 on the plug being removed had a red wire, and pin 1 on the replacement section had a blue wire, you would know to join the blue wire on your new section to the red wire on the car's loom.
@@AndrewFixes i was just confused i thougt there are a few cables with the same color so if they are broken you cant trace them back but i see every pin has its own color thanks buddy👍👍
Hi Andrew
Thanks for your video this problem has been doing my head in for ages!! My problem is everything works apart from the driver window does not go up or down however can hear the motor clicking.
I’ve took the motor out swapped with another working motor and still same problem. Clicks but doesn’t spin even when motor is not in place so should see the spindle spin but it does not move. Only clicks.
I saw a comment below with same issue which you had replied to saying it could be regulator. Can you give any more advice on this I do not know anything about the regulator.
The fact that the motor clicks but doesn’t spin even when not in place in the door and the fact I have 1 wire in the door shut with slight broken insulation makes me think it may be that and not the regulator?
Also my plug has fell inside the frame on the door shut
Looking at purchasing a 2006 a3 tomorrow on viewing today i found the central locking or window controls where not working on the drivers door is there any chance the fix will be more in depth/expensive then what you did in this video
Hi Sam, yes unfortunately there is definitely a chance it will be more expensive than the repair shown in the video. Very difficult to say without seeing and testing the car, but the door control module and the window switch panel also have a habit of breaking.
.... Hi again.. Did have a go at this.. And as I pulled away the bellow from the driver side dashboard, I noticed 2 wires broken. 1 was a brown and the other red & green. Disconnected the battery and I managed to shrink/solder them together for now, until I get a loom, & all seems to work.... But I now have 2 lights on the dash.. 1 being the air bag.. And the other the traction control... Any ideas? I do remember reading something about this tending to happen, but I'm not quite sure what has caused it. Much appreciated. Thanks again for the very good video and sharing your knowledge.
The traction control and steering lights often come on after disconnecting the battery, but usually go away within a few minutes of driving. I'm not sure why your airbag light has come on. Have you done a code scan to help narrow it down? It is possible that there was another less obvious broken wire that you missed / stretched in the course of your repair? This could cause the airbag light to come on so it might be worth having another look. Hope you manage to get it fixed.
I'm not much of a "car guy", but I am an IPC certified "electronics guy". It seems to me that instead of working so hard to get so much slack, you could just cut the new wire harness a bit shorter. It also seems that in order to not have all the connections in the same place, you could stagger the connections: some at 5 inch, some at 6 inch, some at 7 inch etc.
Hi Dan, thanks for your comment. About staggering the connections, yes absolutely agree that would help. Regarding shortening the new section, I think I decided to leave it long because that was going to put the joints in a better position inside the door. I probably wanted to hack out as much of the brittle old cable as possible!
Hi andrew my audi A4 b8 2009 model... front passenger door wont open from inside and outside what can i do
This seems to be a very common issue for audi, the trunk wiring harness is also very susceptible to this kind of damage
Didn't know about the trunk wiring, but makes sense if it's made of the same low quality cable as the door harnesses.
Hi Andrew how’s this holding up since the repair? I’m currently contemplating whether or not to do as you’ve shown or get a used harness from eBay, ensuring the wiring is in good condition obviously.
It's doing well, probably about 2 years and 20,000 miles since I did the repair and no problems at all. The cable in the repair section is much higher quality than the original harness, but obviously there is the hassle of joining it all up.
@@AndrewFixes thanks for the reply. That’s good to know it’s holding up well.
Mine too have this same issue..
Sorry to hear it, I think it's fairly common on these cars.
Any idea how to get the door card off when the door is stuck shut? Door won't open inside or out
I ordered something similar to this but it came with 20 wires connected instead of the 13 like yours. Can I unpin them?
My drivers side door and rear drivers side door have both lost power at the same time. I checked every fuse and they all appear to be perfect so this is somewhat my last hope really. It's just very weird that both doors stopped working at the same time and if this is the problem with my drivers door then I have no idea how the rear one broke as well :S
Andrew, Do you know how to get into a 2007 Audi A3 Sportback where the front passenger door won't open from inside or outside ??
I don't know for certain, but I've seen a few options suggested. The first is to thump the door, near the latch, whilst pressing unlock. I've read of some people managing to get the latch to respond for one last time by doing this, so they can open the door. This won't work if it's a wiring problem but may work if a motor or microswitch has failed in the lock mechanism.
I think it is possible to remove the door card with the door closed. Someone else who commented on this video had a similar problem and I think they managed to do it. Once the door card is off, I can think of a few options at this point:
If you can find a way of getting a small pry tool onto the wiring bellows, it may be worth trying to wiggle them, in case your problem is a broken wire and wiggling it can make just enough of a connection to allow current to pass and the door to open. This is a long shot!
With the door card off you may be able to release the latch from inside the door, but this depends on what has failed.
The next option might be to try to dismantle the latch/locking mechanism in situ until you can release it.
If none of that works I think the next thing to try would be to remove the trim from the B pillar and drill the striker bolts out so the door can open.
Given the time and potential damage caused by any of this, it may also be worth trying to find a decent automotive locksmith to see if they have any other options for opening the door.
Good luck and I'd love to know what worked if you manage to get it sorted.
@@AndrewFixes Hi Andrew, well I finally got the time to try and get my passenger door open this morning. I gave the outside skin of the door between the handle and the door pillar a gentle tap with a rubber mallet while unlocking the door with the fob and it worked after about 10 mins of trying. I've removed the door card and the speaker so I could get to the wiring the same as you did in this video. After removing the rubber sheath at the front pillar to expose the multi plug and wiring loom I found that some of the cable coverings are cracked but the wires from what I could see are fairly intact. However I'm going to order the replacement loom and solder connectors that you used and do the repair as I'm perfectly capable of doing that myself. I do think I'll need to remove the lock unit and give that a clean up too and make sure that it is working correctly and if it needs it I'll replace that also. So thanks for doing this video it really has been a great help.
Hi, what can I search in Amazon to get the item up? The link in the description doesn't seem to be working for me I'm afraid. Thanks
Sorry to hear it, I've checked both the Amazon and eBay links and they seem to be working fine now. Let me know if you're still having trouble with them.
My moms car has the same issue with the passanger door and sometimes one of the rears... They all open from the inside but won't open from the outside (they do lock everytime with the fob however). I have found somebody breaking the same model car that has offered to fit the new door (complete with window, motor and wiring loom). Will this eradicate the problem? Or is the issue more related to the central locking itself? I don't have access to a computer and with covid it's hard to get the car booked in anywhere... Also he is only going to charge £80 for the complete door wich I know is a very good price.... But I'm worried the problem will persist even after having it completely replaced...
Very hard to say without further investigation whether replacing the entire door would solve the problem. My concern with replacing the entire thing is you could be replacing some damaged wiring with some more damaged wiring from a different car. I'd check the wiring at the door bellows on your car, and on the door that you're thinking of having fitted. That does seem to be a good price but if the wiring is damaged on the 'new' one, it might not move you any further forward. Also I think the new door may need programming to your car, so make sure the price includes that.
In summary, the problem needs more investigation before going ahead with replacing parts.
Hi Andrew, i have a A3 2007, the driver door does not want to open manually sometimes and my mobilizer is not working, can you assist.
I hawe same problem, and I really pissoff with remowing wire jack...
Sorry to hear it. Yes I think it's a really common problem and quite fiddly in places. But it's so annoying to have door locks not working, I felt the effort was worth it. All the best for the repair.
Hi there Andrew
Many thanks for your response.
I now have another problem BUT the same door some times when I push the "un-lock button" it unlocks and also locks when I press the "lock button" BUT on other occasions, with the door locked I press the "un-lock button" it remains locked.
Added to this it eats key fob batteries.
Any ideas ? 🤔🤔🤔
I have the same issue. I can unlock on the key, and if the door stands open, I can hear the mechanics are working, but with the door closed and I push the unlock, the door stays locked and I need to pull the lever from the inside to open the door. Please let me know if you’ve found the fix. 🙏🏻
Hi Andrew, I'm having a problem with my 2007 Audi A3 sport back, the drivers window isn't going down although I'm getting a clicking sound from then motor.... I have replaced the switch + the motor and still the same problem, everything else works mirrors etc ...
The clicking from the motor sounds like there might be a problem with the regulator, or at least with the connection between the motor and the regulator.
I have the issue on my a3 where the key doesn't unlock or lock the car I've looked and found damaged wires from the door to the car could doing the rewire fix the issues?
Hi I've just took my car to a garage to replace the item listed in your description, now the window goes down from the back door but still doesn't open or close and window doesn't work from drivers door. Is there anything further I can do? Thanks
Sorry to hear it. Did the garage that did the work tell you that replacing the wiring would fix the problem? If so I'd go back to them and tell them it hasn't. There are a few other things that can commonly go wrong with the doors, that might explain the symptoms you're getting. Firstly, the window switches can fail. Secondly, the door latch itself can fail, as can the door module. A full code scan with VCDS or another decent diagnostic tool would be a good place to start.
Dear Andrew, I have a 2008 Audi A3 Tfsi S line, my door on the drivers side opens and the drivers side rear, but recently the passenger side door and the passenger rear is mot opening, can you please help me Andrew.
I have the same problem in rear passenger door, doesn't open from inside or outside. Windows don't go down, will this still be the module and wiring in the drivers door? Thanks!
If your problems are with the rear door on the passenger (left) side, then there could be an issue with the wiring going to/from the door module in the front door on the passenger side. Less likely to be a problem on the driver's side. Hope you manage to get it fixed.
My A3 8P1 2009 drivers door. The Yellow / black clip was stuck but I managed to get the actuator out by unscrewing the threaded rod (it was the only way that it was coming out), so my question is as follows
How many times do you adjust the threaded rod to make it work ?
When reassembling, you can open the clip so the yellow half remains attached to the latch and the black part is held latched open against the yellow part. Then the threaded rod can be clipped in to the yellow half at the correct length and held in place by clicking the black half of the clip into position.
@@AndrewFixes Hi Andrew thanks for the tip
How much would this job cost?
Where's the link for the kit
So can someone tell me how to open my front passenger side door plz it won't open from the inside r out side
I have this issue, but the door is stuck shut and cant open from inside nor out? anyone out there got any tips to open?
Yep i have 58 plate same problem rear dvrs side no power to anything dvrs door no lock or mirror indicator flashing window works but thats it
Sorry to hear it, hope you manage to get it sorted!
Ye i have had a few problems with it turbo leak oil feeder pipe top hat and spring its in bits at the min slow getting parts in with lockdown but im sailing on through
good night, my a3 2007 is not opening the two doors on the left side, the vcds appears err intermittently, may it be the same problem?
when it unlocks it makes noise in the 4 locks, but the two left ones do not unlock
Hallo I want to know please where did you buy the part thank you
Hi, here is a link amzn.to/2MEdrEM
Hi. I have some issues can I bring the car to u? Where about r u please?
can it help i have a problem with the front and rear doors on the driver's side. They don't get electricity. no switch works, locks too. on that side nothing works. the lighting on the switches doesn't work either
This might be part of the problem. It would be worth just pulling back the wiring bellows between the driver's door and the A pillar, just to have a look at them. Any broken ones will need repairing, but you won't know if they are the sole cause of your problems until you've repaired them.
Anyone know where to get the wiring terminals from? I have this issue in my b6 audi
There's a link in the video description.
@@AndrewFixes I am looking for just wire terminals not a pre-made harness. Thanks!
Got similar problem both pasanger side doors wont open at all and windows don't work
Sorry to hear it Michael, sounds like you might have quite a few broken wires. Hope you managed to get it sorted. Thanks for your comment.
Hi Andrew , where are you located ? Can you fix this for me ? I have just the sensor issue on driver side , the passenger side it’s fine , I’m sure it’s a cable inside that rubber that is snapped, because is working from times to times the VCDS error says :
2 Faults Found:
1052936 - Touch Sensor on Exterior Door Grip; Driver Side
B116B 29 [008] - Signal Implausible
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 141
The second fault is same but the fault number is 1052939
Thank you
If there is anyone around manchester who can help me with this please comment below, thanks
It's a disease in Audis I had to repair a wiring for the window which refuses to go down if your speed doesn't go down anymore doesn't go up anymore first check the wiring at the level of the door
Where can i get the loom part please?
There's a link in the description 👍
How much would it cost to have a mechanic do this?
Very difficult to say as hourly rates vary so much. i'd guess you'd be charged about 2 hours labour. There is a link to the parts in the description so you can see how much they are.
I do understand what u say bro.....but my problem it my door can't open this is now at the......and it's the passenger side
Hi Andrew, very informative video. However I have a 59 plate Audi A3 Sportback TDIe and the nsf door won't open from the inside or outside. How could this be fixed if I can't take off the door panel as the door won't open either way, or can it be removed. Thanks in advance.
Hi Marc, sorry to hear it. I don't know if the door card can be removed without opening the door, but I think it could be worth a try. I guess it will be tricky to get a Torx key to the bottom screw for the door card, so maybe try that one first. The other challenge may be to have enough clearance for the card where it goes behind the end of the dash.
If this doesn't work, and it doesn't display the usual Audi habit of becoming intermittent (open it and take the card off when it does) then I'd call a vehicle specialist locksmith and ask them for a quote to open the door for you. It will probably be cheaper than a new door card.
Good luck!
@@AndrewFixes Hi Andrew many thanks for replying. I managed to get all three screws out and get access to the door lock mechanism. However pulling the cord and trying various things I still can't open the door. Took it to a garage and they said the power is dead going into the mechanism. Only way to open the door is to cut through the door panel to try and get full access to the lock to try and prise it open. Nightmare as I thought once we could get to the door mechanism (which we did, bit tight) that there would be a lever or some sort to release to open the door... doesn't appear to be so :-(
Hi Marc, sorry to hear it. The only other thing I can think of (and I've never tried this so haven't a clue whether it would work) is to apply an external power source directly to the pins of the lock actuator, to see if you can get the locking motors to turn and release the lock. I say motors because I think there is a lock motor and a deadlock motor. You'd likely need a wiring diagram (they can be downloaded from erwin.audi.com/erwin/showHome.do for a small fee) and also need to find out their operating voltage, which could be measured from the good side. This might take quite a while to work out, but then so might cutting the door panel and prising the lock actuator apart. Hope you manage to get it sorted.
@@AndrewFixes Thanks for the reply Andrew. It's at the garage now as I speak so I will let you know how they get on.
@@marcruddock541 hi. I have the same problem on the front passenger side. It keeps draining the battery and setting off the alarm as well. I can’t get it open at all. Did your problem get resolved? How much did it cost? What do you advise?
Hi Andrew, really great video. Someone tried to mend cables in my Audi A3 2007 sportback already. If they ever worked they came loose now. Similar problem: doors drivers side and mirrors adjustment doesn't work. So replacement part seems the best option at the mo. However, the clip the replacement part attaches to is loose in mine (made a video: th-cam.com/video/IShdXH7fGVw/w-d-xo.html ). Would you have ideas how to go around it? I don't want it to brake or for it to fell in the frame and have nothing to attach it to later on. Many thanks.
Hi Marta, thanks for your comment. I had a look at your video - tricky! What I think I'd do is loop a cable tie or some wire through the pink/purple bit at the top of the plug. This would hopefully stop it falling in. You could tie some string to the wire/cable tie so you've got something to pull it back out again should it fall in. The loose part should be held firmly in the A pillar - is it broken? If not, you could try gently pulling it back into position before removing the plug. Cheers Andrew
@@AndrewFixes Thanks a lot, much appreciated!
What is the part number? Name?
Here you go - replacement wiring harness section links:
amzn.to/2MEdrEM
ebay.to/2AJCy6n
Cheers
So can someone tell me how to open my front passenger side door plz it won't open from the inside r out side