Most people would buy only one making the video mute. However, I purchased two and noticed that when used together some vehicles would become dangerously unstable thus prompting me to make the video. thanks for the kind words and watching my channel.
Thanks, I purchased 2 of those crossbeam attachments. What I found is when used together on some vehicles they become dangerously unstable. In this video I wanted to show users how to avoid just that scenario. Whenever I go under a vehicle, I always have some sort of redundancy in place. The closest call I ever had was I had jack stands on a cars inner frame rails with only the front raised. The car had been leaking oil for some time and the rails were saturated. Stupidly I had failed to block the rear wheels. My German Shepherd likes to climb under vehicles with me and as it would happen, we were both under the car when it started to slide. I quickly pealed out of there with my Shepherd close behind me just as the car came down. It was a great lesson.
Good video Rick! I agree, always have a 2nd method of supporting the vehicle, especially if you are under it with the wheels off. And make sure the wife knows how to use the jack, just in case! Thanks again for turing those rotars for me, the truck brakes are smooth as silk now! Just replaced my fuel lines with 3/8 SS line, so they should out live the truck.
Thanks for the comments Dan. You know that is a great suggestion. I always let her or my son know when I am going under but I have no idea if she or my son has ever used a jack. I will find out today. I am glad you are happy with the rotors and I am glad you found my channel.
Thanks Jeff, Quite often they sell out as soon as they get them in. I ordered mine on line. Use them as intended, good luck, be safe and thanks for watching my channel.
Thanks; I had previously tried raising both sides at once as I have 2 sets. The vehicle however when being supported from both sides became dangerously unstable.
I am glad my video was helpful Zack, Let me know how you like them. Don't forget to use stands once you have raised the vehicle.. Thanks for watching my channel.
Most people only have one jack making the video a moot point as only one side can be raised at a time anyway. However, if you are like me and have two jacks with the crossbeam attachments, I found the vehicle can become dangerously unstable. Thus, prompting me to post the video. Thanks for watching and posting the comment.
Thanks Jeff, I think most people would only buy one making the video a moot point. However, having two sets when I attempted to lift both sides at the same time the car became dangerously unstable. This prompted me to make the video as I was sure others like myself may have purchased two crossbeam jacks as well.
Thanks I have found these very useful. Just be careful! do not get under the car with these alone supporting it. Thanks for taking the time to place a comment and thanks for watching my channel.
I think the problem is people aren't attaching them to the jack. People seem to think they just sit in place and are not bolted to the jack. Could you please show installing BEFORE use.
Thanks for the request Mike; I had previously posted 2 videos showing the installation. Here are links to both th-cam.com/video/do6_PuIafBE/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/52PAfjWkqm0/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching my channel.
What is the vehicle in your video? I wonder if there would be enough room with a car. Especially once one side is lifted and the other side is somewhat lower.
Thanks for the question. The car in the video is a 2011 Chrysler 200 4cyl. As you can see I have two crossbeam jacks. The point I was trying to make in the video was that you cannot jack both sides at the same time with these because the car will become unstable. So you jack one side with the opposite wheels still on the floor. Once you have placed the stands, then you can go around and raise the other side to place your stands. The jack stands now supporting the car at the opposite side will keep the car in a stable condition. With the first side already raised and supported the second side will be somewhat higher than normal which allows plenty of room to slide the jack under. I hope this answers your questions. Thanks for watching.
I understand the need for at least 3 contact points at all times to keep stability. My point is, once one side is raised, the car is somewhat tilted so the opposite side now sits lower. You're saying there's still enough room to get the beam under -- obviously there is in your case as you've demonstrated, but I wonder that will always be the case. It's crazy how some cars have dedicated F/R jack points (honda, acura comes to mind), others don't.
@@geepeezee5030 In all the times I have used those jacks or any jack for that mater when you raise one side the other side is somewhat higher as well. What you are thinking of is a central pivot point where when one side goes up and the other must go down accordingly. The automobile suspension has no such pivot point. Each wheel is independently suspended therefore when you raise one corner or one side they all go up a little.
This video reminds me that I’ve worked on unibody cars my whole life, and one time I’m in my pickup and get a complete tire blowout on the side of a busy and narrow highway. I get out and from almost muscle memory I tried to lift the truck with the pinch weld and of course it’s not part of the frame, and like a total moron I messed up the whole underside of the door member. 😂
That is one of my biggest fears Brian; I am always afraid that I will damage someone's car while attempting to lift it with jacks. I am retired now and only work on friends and family vehicles. I am not making any money in doing so and yet if I damage someone's car I will be held responsible. That actually happened to a friend's car a couple of years ago. My jack slipped off the reenforced pinch weld and crushed his rocker panel. Even thought I was working on his car for free, just trying to help him out I was obligated to repair it. Sort of high risk / no reward LOL. Thanks for watching.
@@richardspaulding5035 I don't agree you were TOTALLY responsible for the damage if you were doing the work for free. If for pay, sure. You had an accident under good intentions, and just like your good will of doing a repair for free, the owner of the car should have said no problem, it was an accident and you were doing it for free. Or at the very least, the owner should have shared in the cost/work to repair the damage.
I saw a younger coworker of mine had lifted an older Mercedes ML suv from the body. (The older ones were body on frame). Amazingly i dont remember it doing any damage! I dont think most body on frame vehicles would have handled that...
Yes I try to stress in the videos that these are for lifting only and the car should be supported by some other means. I think back when I was a kid in the back yard. We would get under a car with a pile of tires or cinder blocks and a bumper jack. It is a wonder I survived.
Most people only have one jack making the video mute. However, having purchased a set, the vehicle became dangerously unstable when I used both at the same time. I therefore felt the need to make this video.
Thanks for the question Chitown. As you know on most modern vehicles with unitized bodies there are 4 reinforced pinch welds designated as jacking points. On such vehicles most of the weight is in the front due to the engine and transaxle. If you have ever attempted to raise such a vehicle from the front reinforced pinch weld with a regular jack you may have noticed after you have jacked the front wheel just a very few inches off the ground the back wheel begins to come up as well. Obviously, the crossbeam attachment cannot reach from the reinforced pinch weld in the front to the one in the back. However, if you place the front pad on the front reinforced pinch weld and the other as far as it will reach toward the back (even if the back pad doesn’t make the reinforced weld) the very uneven weight distribution will work in your favor putting very minimal weight on the regular pinch welds causing no damage. The nice thing about raising the vehicle in this manner is once the vehicle is raised all the jacking points are still available for jack stands. Without the crossmember by putting a regular jack under one of the designated jacking points you do not have room to add a stand. I hope that answers your question, Thanks again.
Great video. I'm about to do the same setup, but with two of the Daytona extended reach floor jacks. I thought my idea was original. Using one jack without a crossbeam is tiresome. Guess you keep the other 2 jacks for single point lifting jobs? Nice, but I don't have that much free space. :) With a super setup like yours for jacks, consider upgrading those flimsy looking ratchet jack stands to either US Jacks or ESCOs. I'm going with ESCO due to the large flat rubber top base, solid locking pin, and tripod base (won't cut into your asphalt). The tops of those ratchet stands tend to damage pinch welds and won't work at all on my newer vehicles with recessed jack points. I have the harbor freight jack stand plastic covers which somewhat help for pinch welds, but not the recessed jack points. Update: just watched your Torin 12 ton stand video. Much better! but still the axle shaped top and ratchet system I don't trust. Cheers!
@@richardspaulding5035 per videos they seem to work and hold up fine unlike the cheap tops of the HF crossbeams. You could always slide in a hockey puck with a slot cut into the top as a buffer. No need to permanently attach. Press the slotted hockey puck up onto the pinch weld where it keeps place, then adjust the flat top jack stand to meet it. FWIW, a hockey puck without slot works fine for me on my non padded floor jack for pinch welds. Puck holds up and the pinch weld isn't damaged. With a slot, it would stick to the pinch weld increasing my work time by precious seconds.
Great video Now is that 20 inches off the floor as from under the tire. Other words a 20 inch block of wood would fit under the tire? I ask this as I need to jack a car up at least 15 inches off the floor and this is from the bottom of the tire to the ground.
It is from the floor to the jacking point. the Daytona 3 ton jack in the video had a maximum jacking hight of 23 and1/4 inches. With the addition of the cross beam attachment you can get it up to approximately 29 inches. How far the wheel gets off the ground depends on how much the vehicles suspension will allow the wheel to drop down. Check out this video as it sounds like what you need. th-cam.com/video/6upm-2Porn4/w-d-xo.html They will lift the wheels about 15 inches and are very safe.
Thanks for that information and I watched that video and they sure are the Rolls Royce of Jack Stands and he also showed on how one can remove a wheel and that is my only purpose as I have built a wheel dolly and its a bit high as 10 inches and I need to get the bottom of the tire at least 10.5 inches off the ground. so it can fit under the raised tire.
No hydraulic jack by is safe by itself. They sould only be used to lift the car so it can be supported by some other means. As far as an aluminum jack as long as you adhere to the weight limits it should be ok. I actually have an aluminum jack just for the purpose of road calls. My steal shop jacks are too heavy for me to throw in the truck. My aluminum jack is a lot lighter and easier to carry around.
Thanks for the question rayscopes; I posted a video on that subject last year. here is the link th-cam.com/video/Jo_zBbnWlgM/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
Yes; I agree if there is indeed a frame. With the modern unitized bodies these days most of the manufacturers recommend using the reinforced pinch welds where the rocker panel meets the floor pan. Thank you for your comments and thank you for watching my channel.
I have done so. The key word is lift. The cross beam is to be used to lift the vehicle so it can be supported by some other means. Do not get under any vehicle supported by the cross beam alone. Naturally the truck must be within the specified weight limits. Use common sense, be safe.
Thanks for the question Jan Harry; These crossbeam attachments are specifically made for the Harbor Freight Daytona and Pittsburg brand jacks. They may however fit others but I have no way to cross reference them. In the days to come I will post a video on the saddle dimensions and the size of the screw so people can make comaprisons.
I am not familiar with that particular vehicle. I would like to say yes but I would first consult the owners manual for the recommended jacking points. Thanks for watching my channel.
I was the one of the first to review the crossbeams. I got my hands on the first one before they were available in stores. When I obtained my second one, I found the vehicles would become dangerously unstable when used at the same time on each side. I put that video out very quickly thereafter. Thanks for watching.
It sounds like your regular viewers are tilting at windmills. I wouldn't question the safety of a jack crossbeam, but then again I'm jacking up a Corvette and officially you're supposed to jack up the chassis, not the frame made by the body. The Corvette has a frame. The body is fiberglass. You don't jack up any point on the body. The body part would just rip right off.
@@southpark159753 On some unitized bodies the frame rails will bend. You can throw the car out of alignment by using the control arms. Evidently, I don't have as much experience as you. I did not get started using jacks and lifts until 1969.
UPDATE - I've just seen your explanatory video, so no need to reply here, Richard. I shall leave the comment here, though, in case anybody else has the same query but doesn't know about the other video (th-cam.com/video/QLR0UtmRrOo/w-d-xo.html). My query was: Thanks for this - but please can you tell me why this doesn't damage the centre of the sill? Once the pad nearer the front of the car meets weight/resistance, doesn't the beam pivot slightly to bring the other pad up more and from then on both pads are sharing the load? What am I missing? I hope that you can convince me, because this would be of fantastic benefit to me if you can!
I agree these are not to be used to support a vehicle. These are only to be used to raise the vehicle so it can be safely supported by some other means.
@M&T Well, there is always a way to create an accident, no matter where you are or what you are doing. You just have to do what you have to do the safest way possible to you. Also, like I always reply to assumptions, "If you had wheels, you could be a bicycle, but you don't". Peace
Is it a "CAAAAAAA" or CAR? Learn to SPEAK IN ENGLISH!!!! NOT NASEL SLUSH!!!!! It's like you saying its HOT out and my HOT rate is too high....NO!!!! IT's "HOT," and "HEART"
It is not English I speak friend; It's called Newenglandish. I am sure the world would be a far better place if everyone looked, talked , and acted exactly like you. NOT!!
@@richardspaulding5035 Get him Richard. I'm not a mechanic but I like the video I like your presentation it gave me an understanding of what I was trying to figure out from using a crossbeam.
Thanks Utah, I made the video because I noticed if you jack both sides at the same time the vehicle becomes dangerously unstable. This is only an issue if like me you have 2 of the crossbeams. If you have only one, it is a moot point.
I just want to thank you for showing amateurs how to safely jack up their car without hurting themselves
Most people would buy only one making the video mute. However, I purchased two and noticed that when used together some vehicles would become dangerously unstable thus prompting me to make the video. thanks for the kind words and watching my channel.
An excellent video on how to safely jack up your car, and the importance of having a backup system in place for additional safety
Thanks, I purchased 2 of those crossbeam attachments. What I found is when used together on some vehicles they become dangerously unstable. In this video I wanted to show users how to avoid just that scenario. Whenever I go under a vehicle, I always have some sort of redundancy in place. The closest call I ever had was I had jack stands on a cars inner frame rails with only the front raised. The car had been leaking oil for some time and the rails were saturated. Stupidly I had failed to block the rear wheels. My German Shepherd likes to climb under vehicles with me and as it would happen, we were both under the car when it started to slide. I quickly pealed out of there with my Shepherd close behind me just as the car came down. It was a great lesson.
Good video Rick! I agree, always have a 2nd method of supporting the vehicle, especially if you are under it with the wheels off. And make sure the wife knows how to use the jack, just in case! Thanks again for turing those rotars for me, the truck brakes are smooth as silk now! Just replaced my fuel lines with 3/8 SS line, so they should out live the truck.
Thanks for the comments Dan. You know that is a great suggestion. I always let her or my son know when I am going under but I have no idea if she or my son has ever used a jack. I will find out today. I am glad you are happy with the rotors and I am glad you found my channel.
Thanks Rich - as my wise Hydro-Turbine Generation Facility boss used to say "Belt AND Suspenders!"
LOL thanks
Never knew these were made... Thanks! I'm going out to buy a set tomorrow
Thanks Jeff, Quite often they sell out as soon as they get them in. I ordered mine on line. Use them as intended, good luck, be safe and thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you, that idea of doing one side at a time was fantastic!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks; I had previously tried raising both sides at once as I have 2 sets. The vehicle however when being supported from both sides became dangerously unstable.
Perfect demonstration, I think is just what I need to make tire rotations a little quicker
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. Thanks for the kind words. I am glad you found my channel and found the video helpful.
This is exactly what I was looking for, thanks!
I am glad my video was helpful Zack, Let me know how you like them. Don't forget to use stands once you have raised the vehicle.. Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you for the video I always wondered the correct way on getting all four wheels off the ground this was very good thanks again
Most people only have one jack making the video a moot point as only one side can be raised at a time anyway. However, if you are like me and have two jacks with the crossbeam attachments, I found the vehicle can become dangerously unstable. Thus, prompting me to post the video. Thanks for watching and posting the comment.
Excellent idea and I think it's totally safe just like you did it.
Thanks Jeff, I think most people would only buy one making the video a moot point. However, having two sets when I attempted to lift both sides at the same time the car became dangerously unstable. This prompted me to make the video as I was sure others like myself may have purchased two crossbeam jacks as well.
Great great video. I never would have thought of this. This is what I was looking for.
Thanks I have found these very useful. Just be careful! do not get under the car with these alone supporting it. Thanks for taking the time to place a comment and thanks for watching my channel.
I think the problem is people aren't attaching them to the jack. People seem to think they just sit in place and are not bolted to the jack. Could you please show installing BEFORE use.
Thanks for the request Mike; I had previously posted 2 videos showing the installation. Here are links to both th-cam.com/video/do6_PuIafBE/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/52PAfjWkqm0/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching my channel.
What is the vehicle in your video? I wonder if there would be enough room with a car. Especially once one side is lifted and the other side is somewhat lower.
Thanks for the question. The car in the video is a 2011 Chrysler 200 4cyl. As you can see I have two crossbeam jacks. The point I was trying to make in the video was that you cannot jack both sides at the same time with these because the car will become unstable. So you jack one side with the opposite wheels still on the floor. Once you have placed the stands, then you can go around and raise the other side to place your stands. The jack stands now supporting the car at the opposite side will keep the car in a stable condition. With the first side already raised and supported the second side will be somewhat higher than normal which allows plenty of room to slide the jack under. I hope this answers your questions. Thanks for watching.
I understand the need for at least 3 contact points at all times to keep stability. My point is, once one side is raised, the car is somewhat tilted so the opposite side now sits lower. You're saying there's still enough room to get the beam under -- obviously there is in your case as you've demonstrated, but I wonder that will always be the case.
It's crazy how some cars have dedicated F/R jack points (honda, acura comes to mind), others don't.
@@geepeezee5030 In all the times I have used those jacks or any jack for that mater when you raise one side the other side is somewhat higher as well. What you are thinking of is a central pivot point where when one side goes up and the other must go down accordingly. The automobile suspension has no such pivot point. Each wheel is independently suspended therefore when you raise one corner or one side they all go up a little.
This video reminds me that I’ve worked on unibody cars my whole life, and one time I’m in my pickup and get a complete tire blowout on the side of a busy and narrow highway. I get out and from almost muscle memory I tried to lift the truck with the pinch weld and of course it’s not part of the frame, and like a total moron I messed up the whole underside of the door member. 😂
That is one of my biggest fears Brian; I am always afraid that I will damage someone's car while attempting to lift it with jacks. I am retired now and only work on friends and family vehicles. I am not making any money in doing so and yet if I damage someone's car I will be held responsible. That actually happened to a friend's car a couple of years ago. My jack slipped off the reenforced pinch weld and crushed his rocker panel. Even thought I was working on his car for free, just trying to help him out I was obligated to repair it. Sort of high risk / no reward LOL. Thanks for watching.
@@richardspaulding5035 I don't agree you were TOTALLY responsible for the damage if you were doing the work for free. If for pay, sure. You had an accident under good intentions, and just like your good will of doing a repair for free, the owner of the car should have said no problem, it was an accident and you were doing it for free. Or at the very least, the owner should have shared in the cost/work to repair the damage.
I saw a younger coworker of mine had lifted an older Mercedes ML suv from the body. (The older ones were body on frame). Amazingly i dont remember it doing any damage! I dont think most body on frame vehicles would have handled that...
thank you. just bought mine today.
You won't be sorry. Thanks for watching
So many people apparently don’t use jack stands and it always freaks me out.
Yes I try to stress in the videos that these are for lifting only and the car should be supported by some other means. I think back when I was a kid in the back yard. We would get under a car with a pile of tires or cinder blocks and a bumper jack. It is a wonder I survived.
Thank you sir for showing us
Most people only have one jack making the video mute. However, having purchased a set, the vehicle became dangerously unstable when I used both at the same time. I therefore felt the need to make this video.
How is it OK to have the cross-beam support the car weight on the pinch weld points that are not the jacking points?
Thanks for the question Chitown. As you know on most modern vehicles with unitized bodies there are 4 reinforced pinch welds designated as jacking points. On such vehicles most of the weight is in the front due to the engine and transaxle. If you have ever attempted to raise such a vehicle from the front reinforced pinch weld with a regular jack you may have noticed after you have jacked the front wheel just a very few inches off the ground the back wheel begins to come up as well. Obviously, the crossbeam attachment cannot reach from the reinforced pinch weld in the front to the one in the back. However, if you place the front pad on the front reinforced pinch weld and the other as far as it will reach toward the back (even if the back pad doesn’t make the reinforced weld) the very uneven weight distribution will work in your favor putting very minimal weight on the regular pinch welds causing no damage. The nice thing about raising the vehicle in this manner is once the vehicle is raised all the jacking points are still available for jack stands. Without the crossmember by putting a regular jack under one of the designated jacking points you do not have room to add a stand. I hope that answers your question, Thanks again.
@@richardspaulding5035 That makes sense. Thanks for the reply!
@@Chitown388 Sorry it was so long winded, don't be a stranger, enjoyed the conversation.
I think my Honda Odyssey only has one two pinch welds, one near the front and one near the back. Where else can I jack up?
The owner's manual should give you your safe jacking positions.
Great video. I'm about to do the same setup, but with two of the Daytona extended reach floor jacks. I thought my idea was original. Using one jack without a crossbeam is tiresome. Guess you keep the other 2 jacks for single point lifting jobs? Nice, but I don't have that much free space. :) With a super setup like yours for jacks, consider upgrading those flimsy looking ratchet jack stands to either US Jacks or ESCOs. I'm going with ESCO due to the large flat rubber top base, solid locking pin, and tripod base (won't cut into your asphalt). The tops of those ratchet stands tend to damage pinch welds and won't work at all on my newer vehicles with recessed jack points. I have the harbor freight jack stand plastic covers which somewhat help for pinch welds, but not the recessed jack points. Update: just watched your Torin 12 ton stand video. Much better! but still the axle shaped top and ratchet system I don't trust. Cheers!
Thanks John; I wonder if they have something with built in slots that are designed to fit the pinch welds.
@@richardspaulding5035 per videos they seem to work and hold up fine unlike the cheap tops of the HF crossbeams. You could always slide in a hockey puck with a slot cut into the top as a buffer. No need to permanently attach. Press the slotted hockey puck up onto the pinch weld where it keeps place, then adjust the flat top jack stand to meet it. FWIW, a hockey puck without slot works fine for me on my non padded floor jack for pinch welds. Puck holds up and the pinch weld isn't damaged. With a slot, it would stick to the pinch weld increasing my work time by precious seconds.
Great video Now is that 20 inches off the floor as from under the tire. Other words a 20 inch block of wood would fit under the tire? I ask this as I need to jack a car up at least 15 inches off the floor and this is from the bottom of the tire to the ground.
It is from the floor to the jacking point. the Daytona 3 ton jack in the video had a maximum jacking hight of 23 and1/4 inches. With the addition of the cross beam attachment you can get it up to approximately 29 inches. How far the wheel gets off the ground depends on how much the vehicles suspension will allow the wheel to drop down. Check out this video as it sounds like what you need. th-cam.com/video/6upm-2Porn4/w-d-xo.html They will lift the wheels about 15 inches and are very safe.
Thanks for that information and I watched that video and they sure are the Rolls Royce of Jack Stands and he also showed on how one can remove a wheel and that is my only purpose as I have built a wheel dolly and its a bit high as 10 inches and I need to get the bottom of the tire at least 10.5 inches off the ground. so it can fit under the raised tire.
Are my aluminum jacks just as safe as these steel jack, I might do a cross beam on them
No hydraulic jack by is safe by itself. They sould only be used to lift the car so it can be supported by some other means. As far as an aluminum jack as long as you adhere to the weight limits it should be ok. I actually have an aluminum jack just for the purpose of road calls. My steal shop jacks are too heavy for me to throw in the truck. My aluminum jack is a lot lighter and easier to carry around.
What is the height that the cross beam adds to the jack height?
Thanks for the question rayscopes; I posted a video on that subject last year. here is the link th-cam.com/video/Jo_zBbnWlgM/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
I like to put the jack stands on the frame if possible.
Yes; I agree if there is indeed a frame. With the modern unitized bodies these days most of the manufacturers recommend using the reinforced pinch welds where the rocker panel meets the floor pan. Thank you for your comments and thank you for watching my channel.
Good video Rick
Thanks who are you?
Richard Spaulding Conrad I do car stuff
@@BADD400 OK thanks , I thought you perhaps were someone I know. I just subscribed to your channel.
Great job
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching the video, be safe.
Will it work on the Pittsburgh 3ton ?
I have been told yes; never tried it
@@richardspaulding5035 yes it does went and bought it last thank you 👍 works on pittsburg 3ton
Is it safe to use that to lift a truck cab ?
I have done so. The key word is lift. The cross beam is to be used to lift the vehicle so it can be supported by some other means. Do not get under any vehicle supported by the cross beam alone. Naturally the truck must be within the specified weight limits. Use common sense, be safe.
where can i get like that on my Air Jack?
Thanks for the question Jan Harry; These crossbeam attachments are specifically made for the Harbor Freight Daytona and Pittsburg brand jacks. They may however fit others but I have no way to cross reference them. In the days to come I will post a video on the saddle dimensions and the size of the screw so people can make comaprisons.
Will it work with Daytona 4 ton?
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. I would expect that it would, but I do not know for certain.
Can i lift my Isuzu Dmax 08 the same way?
I am not familiar with that particular vehicle. I would like to say yes but I would first consult the owners manual for the recommended jacking points. Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you
thanks to you for watching.
Nice video! 🤙
I was the one of the first to review the crossbeams. I got my hands on the first one before they were available in stores. When I obtained my second one, I found the vehicles would become dangerously unstable when used at the same time on each side. I put that video out very quickly thereafter. Thanks for watching.
It sounds like your regular viewers are tilting at windmills. I wouldn't question the safety of a jack crossbeam, but then again I'm jacking up a Corvette and officially you're supposed to jack up the chassis, not the frame made by the body. The Corvette has a frame. The body is fiberglass. You don't jack up any point on the body. The body part would just rip right off.
I don't understand your point. All manufactured vehicles come with jacking instructions and those should always be followed.
.Richard, thanks for the video, but I think you would have got the same result without the cross beam.
Yes xray; You can also get by drinking water instead of wine. thanks for watching my channel
Better distribution of weight. Less chance of undercarriage damage I'm assuming. Not worth buying for me
Personally I like solid wood blocks
I am not sure about that. don't rely on one thing. I like to have some redundancy when i am under a vehicle.
You put your jacks under the frame rails, subframe or lower control arm, like your supposed to. This debate has been going on forever.
I put them where the manufacture of the vehicle instructs in the owner's manual, No need for debate.
@@richardspaulding5035 that's the jack point not the rest point
@@southpark159753 On some unitized bodies the frame rails will bend. You can throw the car out of alignment by using the control arms. Evidently, I don't have as much experience as you. I did not get started using jacks and lifts until 1969.
Awsome😊
Thanks again.
UPDATE - I've just seen your explanatory video, so no need to reply here, Richard. I shall leave the comment here, though, in case anybody else has the same query but doesn't know about the other video (th-cam.com/video/QLR0UtmRrOo/w-d-xo.html). My query was: Thanks for this - but please can you tell me why this doesn't damage the centre of the sill? Once the pad nearer the front of the car meets weight/resistance, doesn't the beam pivot slightly to bring the other pad up more and from then on both pads are sharing the load? What am I missing? I hope that you can convince me, because this would be of fantastic benefit to me if you can!
thanks
If you cant figure out why getting underneath the car with only these is a bad idea, you probably should rethink doing the job. ijs
I agree these are not to be used to support a vehicle. These are only to be used to raise the vehicle so it can be safely supported by some other means.
This product would make quick work of rotating tires….front to back….back to front..
Yes; I used it for exactly that purpose yesterday. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Peetuh!
Not sure what that means but thanks anyway.
@@richardspaulding5035 Family Guy, Peter
would never trust jack stands, some one could reverse into the car and the stands could topple over.
Either you never work under a car or you are one of the fortunate few that have access to a lift. thanks for watching.
@M&T Well, there is always a way to create an accident, no matter where you are or what you are doing. You just have to do what you have to do the safest way possible to you. Also, like I always reply to assumptions, "If you had wheels, you could be a bicycle, but you don't". Peace
What if someone reverses into your lift?
Is it a "CAAAAAAA" or CAR? Learn to SPEAK IN ENGLISH!!!! NOT NASEL SLUSH!!!!! It's like you saying its HOT out and my HOT rate is too high....NO!!!! IT's "HOT," and "HEART"
It is not English I speak friend; It's called Newenglandish. I am sure the world would be a far better place if everyone looked, talked , and acted exactly like you. NOT!!
@@richardspaulding5035 Get him Richard. I'm not a mechanic but I like the video I like your presentation it gave me an understanding of what I was trying to figure out from using a crossbeam.
Thank you
Thanks Utah, I made the video because I noticed if you jack both sides at the same time the vehicle becomes dangerously unstable. This is only an issue if like me you have 2 of the crossbeams. If you have only one, it is a moot point.