Man, I love your videos! Ive locked my rearend in my Craftsman by watching your video and installed a gas pedal the same way you have shown in your other video. Its actually as easy as you make it look. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Keep up the great work.
Thought I'd add in, as I've "Lincoln-locked" over 20 axles in my lifetime. Never a lawnmower one, but everything from 240sx pumpkins up to 14bolts. As far as welding the backside due to machined surfaces - it doesn't matter, since it's not going to spin anymore. Welding the inside is actually worse, since that center pin is a hardened steel shaft and has now been annealed along the haz (in the weakest possible spot). Place small BOLTS in the meshing gear teeth and weld all the teeth to the bolts, then to the adjacent gear. Then weld anywhere the gears mesh. Avoid the cast iron housing (in this case sun gear), and the pin. Definitely DO NOT weld to the axle shafts. Replace the c-clips, or replace with the other spring style ones (which removes the need to grind the shafts as well).
I have a Craftsman pro 54" and would like to have a limited slip diff but failing that, a locking diff. Will a posi tear up the lawn at all if there are a lot of turns?
I weld the spiders onto the axle because in the past, I have broken those internal c-clips. I had my wheel, hub, and axle slide right out of my transaxle case while I was "side hill-ing" in my back yard. so now I weld them on. I have been running a similar setup in another off road tractor for about 5 years with no problems as of yet. Thanks for the comment!
if you have oxy-acetylene torches light your acetylene and let them smoke where there making suet which is a black smoke if you run the flame over the steel it forms a coating on the steel when you weld with the mig all the splatter will not stick and saves you going with a screw driver removing the splatter! if you have a piston on like a hydraulic cylinder and your welding around it you can suet the chrome rod do your welding and then just wipe off the black smoke and you won't have any damage to the rod.
HEYYY!!! haha i just realized you credited me to the bushing thing in this video, thanks man your the first person that actually gave me credit for something i think
You know, I've seen a lot of comments over the years by people requesting you do a 4x4 lawn tractor... You really only need a secondary trans-axle and cut the out hub mounts off and put on two u-joints from a Jeep Wrangler steering shaft. Do a flat grind on opposing sides to have your surface and snug down the set screws. You could weld them, but that wastes the axle in the event a joint fails. You can buy heavy duty steering joints for around $16 to $20 and just use a secondary drive belt on your motor. It'll work easily! I may try to make a 4x4 because I'm bored and because our zero turn gets stuck fast... This would make for a great recovery vehicle as well as a great toy!
That's cool did you do it?? BTW Aint I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. I got it in my about tab.
Dude,u r the man! I once welded a half inch hammer drill main shaft back together . It ran out of balance and shook ,but I got the drilling jobs done before it shit the bed .
We did that to one of my cars long long ago. We just welded the gear teeth, so it didn't weaken any of the shafts. The shop did that to most of the dedicated oval track race cars for various racing classes. They never had any differential related failures. My car was a 1982 Firebird with a 2.8 v6 and 4 speed stick. We upgraded it to a SBC 350 (v8). Stock differential it was open. We just welded the spider gears without disassembling anything other than the cover. I drove and raced that car ("spectator" street car class) for a few more years after that. It was finally sent to the bone yard when the body twisted too much, and the firewall cracked. I was really hard on that car. It was nice that burnouts were always equal length parallel lines. Much better than the one wheel squeal. I can't recommend that anyone does it to a car, because of the obvious wear issues. But it was a lot of fun to drive. There is one thing about doing this. In the car, it was hard to turn in parking lots, and one wheel scuffed through the turn. I sometimes had to bump the gas to turn. On a mower, if you're turning sharp, it will tear up the grass under the wheel that scuffs. But if you're just using it to drive around fields, or you only do wide turns while mowing, it'll work great.
@ferchospapa an OPEN differential will distribute torque to the wheels separately, (usually the one with less traction). Locking it negates this, effectively locking both axle shafts together (figuratively speaking) making both wheels spin, thus giving you twice as much traction.
hey man, inside the case, there are some brass bushings that the shafts have on the ends Make sure all these brass bushings haven't gotten mis-aligned before you put the cover back on. they have a notch on one side that has to rest in a "cut out" area in the caseing.
Hey Fearless Front - I enjoy your videos. I am in the process of making a side x side True Utility Cart, using a Yardman 18 HP, 14 spd Garden/Lawn Tractor. I hope to put another rear on front & cut axiles ends, add steering U joints, bearings to front for a 4x4. Extend steering shaft, add U joint & bearings, to be able to move steering wheel to right side of cart. Cart frame will go over existing tractor frame, using 1" heavy walled tubing. GREAT GOING!
hello friend,just wanted to comment on the professional presentation of your video.it was very informative,and entertaining.it is rare to find a young man that is able to orate as clearly about a subject,as you have done.seems like a lot of kids do not take enough time with their words nowadays,seems like every thing is f-this,and f-that. thank you very much,have a nice Christmas. Cheers from Colorado
It's a "wire feed welder" which is a mig without gas. It uses flux core wire. You might be able to use a stick welder, I havent tried it, but if you good at using it, then go for it. just tack weld it together in the case, then remove it, and weld it up solid.
spazotis Yes, Spazotis is right Fearless, Deadly gas is made with Brakeclean when welding with it wet on the part or dried on the part.. Safer to just wipe part off with dry rag. Please be safe.
thanks fearless im in the process of building my own mudding mower right now pulled a trans axle off a donner mower and trying to get it apart your videos have helped alot now hopefuly this fabricator can lock a transaxle. by the way the mower im building is a hydrostat so got to swap her out
i locked my transaxle using this method, you make it look easy getting the axles and spider gears in! when i did mine i took it to school and used the varsal tank and cleaned all the gears and the case, re greaced averything really good, i packed both sides and i had greace ozzing out putting it back together, i used almost 2 cans of greace! and mine would not spin at all, i thought i had all the bushings aligned but i guess not, but it wore it self in in about 10 mins,
I would re open it up, and make sure everything is lined up, espically the shifter assembly. If it's a little out of alignment, then it won't allow the trans to shift. It would always be stuck in neutral. If it still shifts, and its hard to turn the shaft, then open it up and look at the little brass bushing on the ends of the shafts... they have little notches that stick out, and there is a groove in the case for them to sit it. They have to be lined up when you re-assemble the case.
When reassembling a trans-axle that is greased would it hurt as an extra layer of protection to run a think layer of gasket maker around the outside edges to help keep water and other contaminants out?
I have one of these on my mower that came off a tractor and when i put it in reverge gear it moves forward but when i put it in gear 1-5 it moves backwards is there a way to fix this?
I have this same type of locker in my offroader, been running it for 4+ years with 20" tires and a pulley swap. In fact, I just swapped out to a new trans, and swapped my old locker into the new trans because it's held up so long
I have been working on mowers for about 3 yrs and I think guy know his shit and that was a Dam good job I will be doing the same thing to my 2 mowers tomorrow thank you for your help.
Thanks, and make sure you check the alignment of those internal bronze bushings. they have little tabs on them and are easy to over look. It's still catches me by surprize every once and a while
Ralph Stevens well how is it going with those two mowers. Broken yet? Wearing out tires faster? Honest Update? What this guy should be doing is replacing the clips and not welding the spider gears. There is reasons why they don't come welded. He should take the other gears to a machine shop and have a keyway cut into them. Gives or doesn't take away the gears ability to mesh ad needed.
I've seen it done that way, but I always thought doing it that way would cause the teath to have a lot of pressure as they were "trying" to mesh. If it stressed too much, it could pop the cheap aluminum case.
hey great video...very professional, but you need some good before and after field-test video in mud, sand, gravel, water, snow, ice....uphill/downhill...itll really show off the improvement, especially with a loaded trailer...they,ll launch a john-boat in a muddy farm-pond after the conversion....still good video tho.
you'll have to open it up, and check the bushings on the shafts inside the transaxle... they should have little "tab's" on them, and they are supposed to fit into a recessed area on the bushing journal. If you put it back together without seating them properly, then it will cause it to turn hard once you put it back together.
Dude! I seriously wish I'd watched this 38 years ago, when I welded my first car diff. Sigh. I couldn't even weld properly then. But after the grinding stopped, it worked well! You're a good explainer. Most of us had to learn the hard way. You've come out the other side. Well done!
I was wondering about that to but. The two rods and their spider gear but the little one taking it out an welding it without proper measurements it would most likely be misaligned. Sense if the metal heats up it expanse even a little an when it cools it may not fit back in an the other spider gears would be in the wrong position so its best to weld them in the position they fit best. Other wise its back to the drawing board. Thank you Loader.
open it back up and look at the ends of all the shafts.. You will see a bunch of small brass bushings on the ends, if you look real close, you will see they actually have little tabs on them, and the case they sit in have little cut-outs to accommodate them. Make sure all these brass bushings haven't gotten mis-aligned before you put the cover back on.
Todd, I use a spray with my cheap mig welder when I am worried about slag sticking. You just spray it on everything you don't want it to stick to and after you are done welding the cleanup is a lot easier. Nothing sticks. Its the same stuff you spray in you migs nozzel. It might have come with you welder when you bought it. I also you argon gas with mine. If that makes a difference. I don't know. Very nice video. Excellant.
thanks! the steering does change a bit.. if you put more weight on the front it will help. a 1700lb boat might be a little too much, not sure... it would depend on what you have for an axle
this reply might be a little bit late but you can make a puller out of a piece of flat bar and 2 bolts and 2 nuts, cut the flat bar to fit inside the rim, drill or cut holes in the flat bar that match the holes in the rim, if there is no holes in the rim drill one on each side of the shaft, put the bolts through the holes in the rim and the bar, put the nuts on and tighten evenly holding the bolt on the back side and tightening the nut on the front side, when the shaft is flush with the rim put a socket between the flat bar and the shaft and continue until it comes off, make sure the socket is a little bit smaller than the shaft
Andrew Chase if the rim doesn't come off the use of a GOOD torch with rosebud combined with a pull puller will do the trick in most cases. Remember to try and not heat the shaft directly, just the rim.
i just locked my transaxle, already got my pulleys swapped . i have a craftsman lt1000 with the msd 206 transaxle. i still have to put oil in it ,thanks for all the how to videos.
@dustlink97 I believe those have the differential built into the axle. so its a little different, but if you can get the axle apart, then you can probably do it
Hey Fearless...I am getting my welding degree right now..and in our shop we have this stuff that comes in an aerosal can called anti-spatter..so if you are welding on stuff that you don't want spatter to get on you just spray it with this stuff and the molten metal metal runs right off of it..just a little tip! awesome vid i will be attempting this on my murray!
Chlorinated brake cleaner evaporates! If it's dry, not an issue. (OTOH, non-chlorinated brake cleaner is highly flammable...would you sooner die of cancer, in three decades, or in a fire, in three days?)
wow this was way easier..i was going to try to machine a full shaft and final gear for my tractor..just finished this today using your method and will test it out tomorrow with some bashing through the woods..
Hey fearless never commented on ur video before but I saw this bid like 6 months ago and I was so interested now I'm 17 and I would like to do this thanks so much ur the best!!
I agree, it's best to weld outside, or with really good ventilation. but break cleaner evaporates in seconds... I highly doubt there is any residue on the metal once I start welding. ( i could be wrong on this...) And I'm sure the gasses released by the flux cored wire that I weld with are just as dangerous...
It depends a lot on the make and model of the transaxle... if it has 3/4" axles, then 20-22" is about the limit.. if you have 1" axle shafts, they you can go WAY bigger... I have a set of 25" tires on one... it was fine
hydro's dont like being pulley swapped, they tend to burn up quick. U would need to find a gear driven transaxle, but the good news is, it should bolt right it. Might even work with your shift linkage
I'm not sure what you mean... You mean the "locker" part? you have to have it together when you tac-weld it so you know it will mesh properly when you reassemble it.
are you sure its oil filled? if so, its replaceable, but you will have to pull out the trans and the input pulley, and there should be a little rubber plug on the top of the trans, pull it out and flip it upside down to drain it.
I think the key here is to make sure the surface has has ample time to dry (30 seconds should do it) , and weld outside or under a ventilation hood. I would also advise you to hold your breath while you weld, and not suck down the fumes... Inhaling excess amounts of any smoke or fumes can kill you, I just figured people would use a little common sense. I've been doing stuff like this for many years, and never had a problem.
Swapped the vertical shaft to a horizontal shaft motor by bolting a six inch pulley to the disc brake rotor . Fine splines on that shaft but I am running 20 hp twin and hasn't stripped the splines yet , if it does I'll just cut in 3/16 keyways . For brakes I kept the horizontal input shaft on and just have a v-belt wrapped around it that I can pull tight ( belt is anchored to the frame ) that will lock up both back wheels a lot better that the original brake system . Used the trans axel and made a three wheeler for the bush . Single front wheel is off a 250cc scooter so has hydraulic disc brake on front wheel . Got speedometer and trip meter . And a sign that says don't drive in farther than your willing to walk out lol
Took mine apart last night, forgot about those two little hidden bolts in the center that were on the bottom. Good thing I remembered you mentioning it, or I would have been out a transmission!
I don't know, I have never really thought about that. Thing is, if your building a utv, your gonna want a fairly heavy duty axle... depending on what you plan on doing with it
yeah, that happens to a lot of people. it's an easy mistake to make, and I didn't cover that in the video. Nice work though, how do you like it now that it's locked?
tahnks, you will want to swap the engine, or trans pulley... I like a 1:1 ratio which means same size front and rear... anything 4" + is what you want for good belt friction
I am just now finding your channel. I enjoyed watching you guys romp in the mud mowers. I have so many questions but, I am going to try everything myself with as little advice as possible. Thanks for sharing how to do this. I was really afraid my tractor would get stuck a lot but now that I saw your video here, I am def gonna try locking my dif. I am already raising the mower 12" higher and so between the lift and the locker, I feel confident I can go anywhere! Next problem, how to swap pulleys so it goes faster lol
@Fearlessfront I haven't cracked the trans yet, but I think that's the plan for tomorrow night. As long as the gears are the same, I will do it the exact same way you describe here. I ordered a new engine pulley that will be in at the end of the week. Hopefully by the weekend I can start re-assembly. Thanks man!
I have never done one of those, but I wouldn't doubt it, those old machines were built like tanks. I know they are usually the rig of choice for guys into "pulling"
@thegenrl they are probably rust welded.... use a block of wood and a hammer and try to pound the wheels off. sometimes a little heat around the hub will help also... If all else fails, use a puller, like a gear puller or something of that nature.
Did it oK and everything is straight and true. Have to ask why you weld the gears on the end of the shafts? I look back at this and can not figure why?
did you pulley swap it? ie. make it faster? because they all do that when you over drive them... If it's untouched, then it probably needs more fluid, or grease added to it.
i did this same thing about 4 years ago on my mower it makes a world of diffrence. when i had mine apart i drilled and tapped drain and fill holes replaced the grease with 80/90 made for much smoother operation
This used to be know as a "Lincoln locker" because people would do it with a Lincoln welder. I just welded the spider gears together where they meet and it's been working on my old Sears garden tractor for 25 years. Only draw back is occasionally the tractor wants to go straight even though the front wheels are turned full lock.
Did you succeed? BTW Cory I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. I got it in my about tab.
Thanks Fearless i am locking my diff well my dad is cause hes welding at his shop just wanted to send you a comment that you are doing a great job and i will have some romping vids up soon
This is one of the best, if not the best training video I have seen. Excellent explanation as well as detailed warning. Great job!!!!
What I've learned from this video:
Be careful with your little balls
Dump your fluids before go to town
Grease your shaft
Use a rubber if you can
7eis I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe.
I got it in my about tab.
Man, I love your videos! Ive locked my rearend in my Craftsman by watching your video and installed a gas pedal the same way you have shown in your other video. Its actually as easy as you make it look. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Keep up the great work.
Thought I'd add in, as I've "Lincoln-locked" over 20 axles in my lifetime. Never a lawnmower one, but everything from 240sx pumpkins up to 14bolts. As far as welding the backside due to machined surfaces - it doesn't matter, since it's not going to spin anymore. Welding the inside is actually worse, since that center pin is a hardened steel shaft and has now been annealed along the haz (in the weakest possible spot).
Place small BOLTS in the meshing gear teeth and weld all the teeth to the bolts, then to the adjacent gear. Then weld anywhere the gears mesh. Avoid the cast iron housing (in this case sun gear), and the pin. Definitely DO NOT weld to the axle shafts. Replace the c-clips, or replace with the other spring style ones (which removes the need to grind the shafts as well).
I have a Craftsman pro 54" and would like to have a limited slip diff but failing that, a locking diff. Will a posi tear up the lawn at all if there are a lot of turns?
You would be right about that if it was a car but it isn’t so it dosent see anywhere near the rpm range as an automotive diff would
Thanks man! I do my best, and I like helping people start/build there projects.
As of right now, youtube is my only outlet.
I weld the spiders onto the axle because in the past, I have broken those internal c-clips. I had my wheel, hub, and axle slide right out of my transaxle case while I was "side hill-ing" in my back yard. so now I weld them on. I have been running a similar setup in another off road tractor for about 5 years with no problems as of yet.
Thanks for the comment!
if you have oxy-acetylene torches light your acetylene and let them smoke where there making suet which is a black smoke if you run the flame over the steel it forms a coating on the steel when you weld with the mig all the splatter will not stick and saves you going with a screw driver removing the splatter! if you have a piston on like a hydraulic cylinder and your welding around it you can suet the chrome rod do your welding and then just wipe off the black smoke and you won't have any damage to the rod.
wow, good tip....I'll have to remember that
A great tip. many thanks
Thanks for the tip I'll have to try that!
What are you doing ,feeding birds ????(SOOT)
dynamight TNT tip!!!.........
I know these videos are old but man is your stuff informative!
HEYYY!!! haha i just realized you credited me to the bushing thing in this video, thanks man your the first person that actually gave me credit for something i think
Excellent video. You kept it moving without a lot of BS. Lots of information. Thanks Todd.
WAIT FOR THE BRAKLEEN TO DRY BEFORE YOU WELD! I am still growing back my eyebrows!
+Conn0isseur Dana
hahaha learning from experience
Experience is key haha
+Conn0isseur Dana ...and welding fumes and brakkleen vapors mix into a mustard gas :) not good lol.
Wiring harness6
Conn0isseur Dana white
You know, I've seen a lot of comments over the years by people requesting you do a 4x4 lawn tractor...
You really only need a secondary trans-axle and cut the out hub mounts off and put on two u-joints from a Jeep Wrangler steering shaft. Do a flat grind on opposing sides to have your surface and snug down the set screws. You could weld them, but that wastes the axle in the event a joint fails.
You can buy heavy duty steering joints for around $16 to $20 and just use a secondary drive belt on your motor. It'll work easily! I may try to make a 4x4 because I'm bored and because our zero turn gets stuck fast... This would make for a great recovery vehicle as well as a great toy!
That's cool did you do it??
BTW Aint I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe.
I got it in my about tab.
Greasing your shaft is great
I bet you love greasing your shaft 😄
the dark lord 🤣😂 this reply killed me.
@@honda-s2k context alert lmao.
Dude,u r the man! I once welded a half inch hammer drill main shaft back together . It ran out of balance and shook ,but I got the drilling jobs done before it shit the bed .
I welded mine it was awesome!!! For about 35mins 😂 my whole casing exploded
didnt use enough grease i bet ;p;p;p
@@deelee6786 Too much torque !
You missed 8:50 😂
We did that to one of my cars long long ago. We just welded the gear teeth, so it didn't weaken any of the shafts. The shop did that to most of the dedicated oval track race cars for various racing classes. They never had any differential related failures.
My car was a 1982 Firebird with a 2.8 v6 and 4 speed stick. We upgraded it to a SBC 350 (v8). Stock differential it was open. We just welded the spider gears without disassembling anything other than the cover. I drove and raced that car ("spectator" street car class) for a few more years after that. It was finally sent to the bone yard when the body twisted too much, and the firewall cracked. I was really hard on that car. It was nice that burnouts were always equal length parallel lines. Much better than the one wheel squeal. I can't recommend that anyone does it to a car, because of the obvious wear issues. But it was a lot of fun to drive.
There is one thing about doing this. In the car, it was hard to turn in parking lots, and one wheel scuffed through the turn. I sometimes had to bump the gas to turn. On a mower, if you're turning sharp, it will tear up the grass under the wheel that scuffs. But if you're just using it to drive around fields, or you only do wide turns while mowing, it'll work great.
I locked mine and now my tires spin backwards when it is in a forward gear.
Oh no 😂😂
You conected the gear seltcion backwards
You put the axle in upside down
Fuck it, just put it in reverse
What advantage is there to locking the transaxle. It’s just a lawn tractor.
@ferchospapa an OPEN differential will distribute torque to the wheels separately, (usually the one with less traction).
Locking it negates this, effectively locking both axle shafts together (figuratively speaking) making both wheels spin, thus giving you twice as much traction.
man what a great instructional video! Thanks so much for making it. Im new to mower modding but i am really enjoying working on these machines :)
Luke I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe.
I got it in my about tab.
hey man, inside the case, there are some brass bushings that the shafts have on the ends Make sure all these brass bushings haven't gotten mis-aligned before you put the cover back on. they have a notch on one side that has to rest in a "cut out" area in the caseing.
You can cut down on the weld splatter by spraying the area with WD-40 before welding.
Thnx.I'll remember that.I suck at mig.
Hey Fearless Front - I enjoy your videos. I am in the process of making a side x side True Utility Cart, using a Yardman 18 HP, 14 spd Garden/Lawn Tractor. I hope to put another rear on front & cut axiles ends, add steering U joints, bearings to front for a 4x4. Extend steering shaft, add U joint & bearings, to be able to move steering wheel to right side of cart. Cart frame will go over existing tractor frame, using 1" heavy walled tubing. GREAT GOING!
Good Video! Also sound advice on how to loosen and tighten the bolts on a cast alu gearbox - not many people heed that.
Thomas Bögel thats right, and it probably one of the most important things to remember
Same goes for a cylinder head.
hello friend,just wanted to comment on the professional presentation of your video.it was very informative,and entertaining.it is rare to find a young man that is able to orate as clearly about a subject,as you have done.seems like a lot of kids do not take enough time with their words nowadays,seems like every thing is f-this,and f-that. thank you very much,have a nice Christmas.
Cheers from Colorado
thanks for the tip, I didn't know they made anything like that. I'll have to find some
It's a "wire feed welder" which is a mig without gas. It uses flux core wire.
You might be able to use a stick welder, I havent tried it, but if you good at using it, then go for it. just tack weld it together in the case, then remove it, and weld it up solid.
this had worked awesome i tried it and it was the best thing ever. you are a genius.
NOT A GENIOUS DONT USE BRAKECLEAN TO CLEAN YOUR PARTS AND THEN WELD DEADLY GAS WILL KILL YOU
spazotis Yes, Spazotis is right Fearless, Deadly gas is made with Brakeclean when welding with it wet on the part or dried on the part.. Safer to just wipe part off with dry rag. Please be safe.
thanks fearless im in the process of building my own mudding mower right now pulled a trans axle off a donner mower and trying to get it apart your videos have helped alot now hopefuly this fabricator can lock a transaxle. by the way the mower im building is a hydrostat so got to swap her out
lol. "try to use a rubber if you can" good advice
i locked my transaxle using this method, you make it look easy getting the axles and spider gears in! when i did mine i took it to school and used the varsal tank and cleaned all the gears and the case, re greaced averything really good, i packed both sides and i had greace ozzing out putting it back together, i used almost 2 cans of greace! and mine would not spin at all, i thought i had all the bushings aligned but i guess not, but it wore it self in in about 10 mins,
4:16 "try to use a rubber if you can" ohh hell yeah i always use a rubber!!!
Neil I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe.
I got it in my about tab.
I would re open it up, and make sure everything is lined up, espically the shifter assembly. If it's a little out of alignment, then it won't allow the trans to shift. It would always be stuck in neutral.
If it still shifts, and its hard to turn the shaft, then open it up and look at the little brass bushing on the ends of the shafts... they have little notches that stick out, and there is a groove in the case for them to sit it. They have to be lined up when you re-assemble the case.
When reassembling a trans-axle that is greased would it hurt as an extra layer of protection to run a think layer of gasket maker around the outside edges to help keep water and other contaminants out?
@wunderman1234 I donno, you might need what they call a thin-wall socket. are you sure your using the right size? sae/metric? most are metric
All you need to do is weld closed three teeth on the 🕷️ gear, and than weld the opposing three teeth. Do all for gears.
I have one of these on my mower that came off a tractor and when i put it in reverge gear it moves forward but when i put it in gear 1-5 it moves backwards is there a way to fix this?
@@KL_daddy Your belt is routed wrong causing the trans to spin backward.
I have this same type of locker in my offroader, been running it for 4+ years with 20" tires and a pulley swap. In fact, I just swapped out to a new trans, and swapped my old locker into the new trans because it's held up so long
I have been working on mowers for about 3 yrs and I think guy know his shit and that was a Dam good job I will be doing the same thing to my 2 mowers tomorrow thank you for your help.
Thanks, and make sure you check the alignment of those internal bronze bushings. they have little tabs on them and are easy to over look. It's still catches me by surprize every once and a while
Ralph Stevens well how is it going with those two mowers. Broken yet? Wearing out tires faster? Honest Update?
What this guy should be doing is replacing the clips and not welding the spider gears. There is reasons why they don't come welded. He should take the other gears to a machine shop and have a keyway cut into them. Gives or doesn't take away the gears ability to mesh ad needed.
I've seen it done that way, but I always thought doing it that way would cause the teath to have a lot of pressure as they were "trying" to mesh. If it stressed too much, it could pop the cheap aluminum case.
hey great video...very professional, but you need some good before and after field-test video in mud, sand, gravel, water, snow, ice....uphill/downhill...itll really show off the improvement, especially with a loaded trailer...they,ll launch a john-boat in a muddy farm-pond after the conversion....still good video tho.
you'll have to open it up, and check the bushings on the shafts inside the transaxle... they should have little "tab's" on them, and they are supposed to fit into a recessed area on the bushing journal. If you put it back together without seating them properly, then it will cause it to turn hard once you put it back together.
whats this guy doing here? I was searching for blinker fluid reviews
Dude! I seriously wish I'd watched this 38 years ago, when I welded my first car diff. Sigh. I couldn't even weld properly then. But after the grinding stopped, it worked well! You're a good explainer. Most of us had to learn the hard way. You've come out the other side. Well done!
I know this video is old but could I just weld all the spider gears together instead of welding it all separate?
I was wondering about that to but. The two rods and their spider gear but the little one taking it out an welding it without proper measurements it would most likely be misaligned. Sense if the metal heats up it expanse even a little an when it cools it may not fit back in an the other spider gears would be in the wrong position so its best to weld them in the position they fit best. Other wise its back to the drawing board. Thank you Loader.
open it back up and look at the ends of all the shafts.. You will see a bunch of small brass bushings on the ends, if you look real close, you will see they actually have little tabs on them, and the case they sit in have little cut-outs to accommodate them. Make sure all these brass bushings haven't gotten mis-aligned before you put the cover back on.
oh sure, we don't need no differential, we have vodka
Todd, I use a spray with my cheap mig welder when I am worried about slag sticking. You just spray it on everything you don't want it to stick to and after you are done welding the cleanup is a lot easier. Nothing sticks. Its the same stuff you spray in you migs nozzel. It might have come with you welder when you bought it. I also you argon gas with mine. If that makes a difference. I don't know. Very nice video. Excellant.
To bad manufacture's don't just make a button you could push & have instant posi track.
Cruiser007 by Kubota tractor has a lever to lock it when you need extra traction.
Our new husqvarna lawn tractor has an electric locking rear end! Works greay
No Rubicon mowers?
thanks! the steering does change a bit.. if you put more weight on the front it will help. a 1700lb boat might be a little too much, not sure... it would depend on what you have for an axle
what should u do if the rims dont come off the axle
then the rim is ceased what I did was I grinded the rim of the axle it took me about 2 days to grind it off
Country Gamer 2 days? with what, a nail file?
this reply might be a little bit late but you can make a puller out of a piece of flat bar and 2 bolts and 2 nuts, cut the flat bar to fit inside the rim, drill or cut holes in the flat bar that match the holes in the rim, if there is no holes in the rim drill one on each side of the shaft, put the bolts through the holes in the rim and the bar, put the nuts on and tighten evenly holding the bolt on the back side and tightening the nut on the front side, when the shaft is flush with the rim put a socket between the flat bar and the shaft and continue until it comes off, make sure the socket is a little bit smaller than the shaft
D M or you can just go get a rent a tool puller from AutoZone or places like that.
Andrew Chase if the rim doesn't come off the use of a GOOD torch with rosebud combined with a pull puller will do the trick in most cases. Remember to try and not heat the shaft directly, just the rim.
@steven1984ilb they might just need to be adjusted, or the little pads inside are probably worn out. Do you live in Maine?
what about a hydro lawn tractor
yes
i just locked my transaxle, already got my pulleys swapped . i have a craftsman lt1000 with the msd 206 transaxle. i still have to put oil in it ,thanks for all the how to videos.
Can u lock a hydrostatic transmission
Yes
No
Yes
No. Ok next comment needs to be yes. LOL
Yes. If you're awesome enough to weld hydraulic fluid, you can lock a hydrostatic transmission.
@dustlink97 I believe those have the differential built into the axle. so its a little different, but if you can get the axle apart, then you can probably do it
Is that a Spicer????
it's a Foote
what is that?? it looks like a Spicer.
is Foote made by Spicer?????
Zach'sGarage channel Not that I know of. Not sure though
Fearlessfront it is a DANA/FOOTE/SPICER transaxle.
This really helped me the most because I have the exact same trans axle. The foote 3864. I'm planning on locking mine real soon thanks to this video
He greased his shafts
Hey Fearless...I am getting my welding degree right now..and in our shop we have this stuff that comes in an aerosal can called anti-spatter..so if you are welding on stuff that you don't want spatter to get on you just spray it with this stuff and the molten metal metal runs right off of it..just a little tip! awesome vid i will be attempting this on my murray!
not safe to weld anything that has ever had brake cleaner on it. but other wise very informative video
only if it was chlorinated brake cleaner, it creates very deadly gases
Chlorinated brake cleaner evaporates! If it's dry, not an issue. (OTOH, non-chlorinated brake cleaner is highly flammable...would you sooner die of cancer, in three decades, or in a fire, in three days?)
wow this was way easier..i was going to try to machine a full shaft and final gear for my tractor..just finished this today using your method and will test it out tomorrow with some bashing through the woods..
***** hasn't broken yet used it today to pull close to a ton of sand in the cart so +5 for griffindor
Does this work for cars
Dude is a professor! Amazing detail and pointers!
jbobnat I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe.
I got it in my about tab.
Hey fearless never commented on ur video before but I saw this bid like 6 months ago and I was so interested now I'm 17 and I would like to do this thanks so much ur the best!!
I love the way You think and act on it. You are truely feerless. It must be a very old transaxel with grease and no oil. Go man go
Ive used this video to lock two of my garden tractors. Great information, thank you
I agree, it's best to weld outside, or with really good ventilation. but break cleaner evaporates in seconds... I highly doubt there is any residue on the metal once I start welding. ( i could be wrong on this...)
And I'm sure the gasses released by the flux cored wire that I weld with are just as dangerous...
It depends a lot on the make and model of the transaxle... if it has 3/4" axles, then 20-22" is about the limit.. if you have 1" axle shafts, they you can go WAY bigger... I have a set of 25" tires on one... it was fine
hydro's dont like being pulley swapped, they tend to burn up quick. U would need to find a gear driven transaxle, but the good news is, it should bolt right it. Might even work with your shift linkage
I'm not sure what you mean... You mean the "locker" part? you have to have it together when you tac-weld it so you know it will mesh properly when you reassemble it.
u could do a rtv silicone gasket if you wanted to. this one is grease filled so it wasn't necessary. It is on oil filled though.
are you sure its oil filled? if so, its replaceable, but you will have to pull out the trans and the input pulley, and there should be a little rubber plug on the top of the trans, pull it out and flip it upside down to drain it.
It was called a "Lincoln locker" 60 years ago. Most arc welders were Lincoln. A stick per gear, and away you go, wearing out tires.
yes you can, I am actually doing one right now. just waiting on gaskets to finish it up. but there will be a video of the process
I think the key here is to make sure the surface has has ample time to dry (30 seconds should do it) , and weld outside or under a ventilation hood. I would also advise you to hold your breath while you weld, and not suck down the fumes... Inhaling excess amounts of any smoke or fumes can kill you, I just figured people would use a little common sense.
I've been doing stuff like this for many years, and never had a problem.
Can you place the transaxle vertically for a horizontal shaft engine?
Swapped the vertical shaft to a horizontal shaft motor by bolting a six inch pulley to the disc brake rotor . Fine splines on that shaft but I am running 20 hp twin and hasn't stripped the splines yet , if it does I'll just cut in 3/16 keyways . For brakes I kept the horizontal input shaft on and just have a v-belt wrapped around it that I can pull tight ( belt is anchored to the frame ) that will lock up both back wheels a lot better that the original brake system . Used the trans axel and made a three wheeler for the bush . Single front wheel is off a 250cc scooter so has hydraulic disc brake on front wheel . Got speedometer and trip meter . And a sign that says don't drive in farther than your willing to walk out lol
Took mine apart last night, forgot about those two little hidden bolts in the center that were on the bottom. Good thing I remembered you mentioning it, or I would have been out a transmission!
I don't know, I have never really thought about that. Thing is, if your building a utv, your gonna want a fairly heavy duty axle... depending on what you plan on doing with it
yeah, that happens to a lot of people. it's an easy mistake to make, and I didn't cover that in the video.
Nice work though, how do you like it now that it's locked?
tahnks, you will want to swap the engine, or trans pulley... I like a 1:1 ratio which means same size front and rear... anything 4" + is what you want for good belt friction
I am just now finding your channel. I enjoyed watching you guys romp in the mud mowers. I have so many questions but, I am going to try everything myself with as little advice as possible. Thanks for sharing how to do this. I was really afraid my tractor would get stuck a lot but now that I saw your video here, I am def gonna try locking my dif. I am already raising the mower 12" higher and so between the lift and the locker, I feel confident I can go anywhere! Next problem, how to swap pulleys so it goes faster lol
Sounds good man, it's a lot more fun than it seems like it would be.
@Fearlessfront I haven't cracked the trans yet, but I think that's the plan for tomorrow night. As long as the gears are the same, I will do it the exact same way you describe here. I ordered a new engine pulley that will be in at the end of the week. Hopefully by the weekend I can start re-assembly. Thanks man!
I have never done one of those, but I wouldn't doubt it, those old machines were built like tanks.
I know they are usually the rig of choice for guys into "pulling"
@thegenrl they are probably rust welded.... use a block of wood and a hammer and try to pound the wheels off. sometimes a little heat around the hub will help also... If all else fails, use a puller, like a gear puller or something of that nature.
Did it oK and everything is straight and true. Have to ask why you weld the gears on the end of the shafts? I look back at this and can not figure why?
@kawibbyrule it will be a little harder to turn when its locked, but it will push twice as hard.
sure you can, especially if you gonna take it into the water. water will still find a way in through the seams around the axleshafts.
did you pulley swap it? ie. make it faster? because they all do that when you over drive them... If it's untouched, then it probably needs more fluid, or grease added to it.
Very informative video young man very good job would not be afraid to attempt this job after watching this video thank you
i did this same thing about 4 years ago on my mower it makes a world of diffrence. when i had mine apart i drilled and tapped drain and fill holes replaced the grease with 80/90 made for much smoother operation
I think so, you have to use rtv sealant to seal it up though. and you'll need to drill and tap an oil fill hole in the case somewhere
This used to be know as a "Lincoln locker" because people would do it with a Lincoln welder. I just welded the spider gears together where they meet and it's been working on my old Sears garden tractor for 25 years. Only draw back is occasionally the tractor wants to go straight even though the front wheels are turned full lock.
I miss my 04 Impala SS. It was my favorite of all the cara I have had. Super fun and pretty as hell.
J Way I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe.
I got it in my about tab.
I just used your video to lock a Peerless 920 transaxle. I works perfect. Thanks
Thanks man, locking the rear makes it a lot more fun to ride!
Amaesen video my tractor run good Tenkyou
Locking is my next challange on my Murray mower.. but leaning alot on this. This is my week project
Did you succeed?
BTW Cory I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe.
I got it in my about tab.
haven't done one of those yet, but if you can get it open and find the spider gears, then you could probably do it
Thanks Fearless i am locking my diff well my dad is cause hes welding at his shop just wanted to send you a comment that you are doing a great job and i will have some romping vids up soon
make sure the internal bushings are turned the right way. they have little tabs on them, if then get misaligned then that will happen