YOU are brilliant! I was able to piece things back together (broken lid) with your detailed video! Thank you so much! You are better than the actual support line for Cuisinart!
Thank you for sharing this! Silicon tape and steel mesh are awesome tools I didn’t know about. Inspired me to replace the leaky water level indicator with a silicon straw lol. I think the material they use for the indicator isn’t good enough for this purpose. It eventually cracks and leaks (if I’m not mistaken yours is also showing signs of cracking on the inside).
Yep, you're correct, clear plastic used in the level indicator deteriorates over time (I am sure contact with boiling doesn't help). It starts to develop microfractures which eventually leak :(
Wow that lid has such poorly-chosen materials for the latch-spring mechanism. A heroic effort to repair on your part! Perhaps a sheet of thin stainles or copper going around the back to both pivots would work. Pity the company doesn't offer an updated part under warranty. Imagine tens of thousands (millions??) of these going into landfill💀
I agree, with a few spare parts (not to mention slightly better design) a lot of appliances could lead a much longer life. Lid problems are not even the worst ones here, at least these can be reasonably worked around if you're handy. But the parts that are in contact with actual food (well, water here), e.g., level indicator, are almost impossible to repair properly, but could be trivially replaced if parts were available... :(
Thanks for this. My kettle is leaking at the window. I’ve had it for about 5 years and the windows has become yellow and brittle. I was able to super glue along all the cracks, cover the bottom port and put the top in my mouth like a kazoo. I sucked in to create a vacuum and suck pull the super glue into the cracks. I hope it holds up.
This will _probably_ work fine. However, I'd still recommend using silicone tape as I did in the video. My two concerns with using superglue in this application would be toxicity and temperature resistance. Cyanoacrylates (primary superglue component) are generally considered non-toxic when set, but would decompose into highly toxic hydrogen cyanide gas when exposed to high heat (about 200C/400F). In this case glue shouldn't see that kind of temperature (generally should not be above boiling water temp), but I thought I'd mention it just in case. But at just below boiling water temperatures (~90C/195F or even lower) most regular superglues would soften quite a bit, these are not great for high-temperature applications. So there is a chance your fix will fail after a while due to high temperature exposure. If you still wanted to go this route (probably too late for recommendations now ;) ), I'd suggest to look for high-temperature resistant superglues, there are some out there that are rated to 200C/400F or even higher, but these are not very common.
Loved this tutorial. My problem is that I can’t get my lid to shut. Any help you can provide on figuring out why it won’t stay shut would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
When you say it doesn't shut, do you mean the lid doesn't close all the way, or it doesn't lock in the bottom position? If the former, then it is likely lid hinge (outside the lid) is broken (plastic parts). If the latter, it is likely latch mechanism inside the lid, and there is a good chance that it is not completely broken, but parts are misaligned. If you disassemble it and reassemble it, it might work again without re-fabricating any of the parts.
My CPK-17 had been working fine for a year. No leaks. Occasionally a confused processor, where it thinks there's no water (flashes and beeps when trying to start), but unplugging fixes that. Only now, my lid got stuck! I followed your advice and was able to pry the brushed metal disc part off, exposing the mechanism. Just a slight touch with my finger seems to have "freed" the mechanism. Now it works! My only problem is that in the probing to figure out what was wrong, I popped the filter bracket off... can't figure out how to get it back on.
@@JustMakeItNow Thanks. The lid has been working perfectly fine since I freed it. I opened and closed the lid about a dozen times, flawless operation. Ran the kettle about half a dozen times for hot water requirements and nothing changed. It'll be interesting to see if this issue returns once more. At least I know how to remedy it!
It's possible it was a one-off situation, but usually there is a reason why things stop working, and unless you fixed the root cause it is likely to reoccur some time later. Well, the good news is that now you're much better prepared for that ;)
@@JustMakeItNow Yes, my hope is that it was a one-off situation by a random chance of misuse. Someone else had used the kettle first that day. When I went to use it, the lid wouldn't release and rise up. They're aware of what happened. A more gentle hand is being offered... so hopefully that's it. ☺
Not sure which part you're talking about, but you can see disassembly in more detail at JMI Works: th-cam.com/video/E1RCR4P6S_o/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/E1RCR4P6S_o/w-d-xo.html Reassembly is just doing the same in reverse, the lid is fairly straightforward.
I was able to reattach the filter bracket. It is friction fit. You need to align the piece into the curved groove at the top, then pull up on the plastic below enough to get the slot to fit over that "L" metal hook in the metal wall of the kettle.
@@JustMakeItNow Yep. It's hard to explain without a visual demonstration, but with a little finagling I'm sure most people will figure it out, if they ever run into that problem. Cuisinart did some things right and some things... well, not so good!
Thank you, I searched for leaking issues on this kettle as it started to leak I noticed today, just went and picked up silicone tape, and hopefully that's indeed where the leak is! Do you have suggestions if it leaking where the seal goes into the kettle and not the indicator? Fingers crossed going to go try this tonight!
That's hard to tell. The seal is soft silicone and is unlikely to leak itself. But indicator assembly is a single piece with a nipple that goes into a kettle (via silicone seal), and it is made out of hard transparent plastic. And I believe this plastic over few years deteriorates into brittle, cracking state, probably assisted with being in contact with boiling water. So these microcracks can develop pretty much anywhere at the bottom of the assembly. And that's another reason why you may want to cover as much as you can there with tape, because even if you seal a place that is leaking today, it is likely to leak from somewhere nearby is a short while. I really would prefer if we could just buy the indicator assembly as a replacement part, this would make this fix rather trivial. But alas :(
Sure, lock is not really related to wobble, wobble is due to a broken hinge. In your case, there is a good chance that something is either broken or just misaligned in the lid mechanism. Just pop up the top metal cover (it is just pressed in with tabs), then you'll see the lock mechanism and will be able to at least open the lid, and probably fix it. Cheers!
I had a random piece lying around, so can't say exact mesh size. But sizing is not critical. It needs to be stainless, that's the important part. Apart from that, the opening needs to be large enough for softened plastic to squeeze through, so don't go too small. I'd say something between 16x16 and 40x40 if I have to guess.
My kettle is 5 years old. Worked yesterday but now it won't heat my water. All the kettle lights come on. I pick a temp and it blinks like before. Hit start button and it lights up white. After a long while of temp light blinking all the buttons go to a neutral blue light. Again after a long while the kettle shuts off. I'm thinking bad heating element or whatever controls it to heat up.
This is a bit weird, sounds like a proper heating cycle according to LEDs. However, if it is a heating element it shouldn't stop attempted heating as it would never reach temperature. If the temp sensor is bad it wouldn't shutoff at all or would shutoff immediately. The only explanation that I can think of is that it is the heating element problem, everything else works fine and kettle thinks it actually is heating up the water. But then there might be a safety timer that shuts off heating after some period of time even if it doesn't reach temperature. . You can follow the video and open up the bottom of the kettle and do a visual inspection, maybe run some continuity tests and see if you can find anything. Though it's unlikely to be something obvious as it seems that most of the kettle works.
@@JustMakeItNow Correct, lights up and begins the process of heating the water and nothing after that. Thanks for you help I'll open bottom of kettle and run a few continuity test.
![[JMI wLog] Electric Kettle Repair](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E1RCR4P6S_o/mqdefault.jpg)
![[JMI wLog] Electric Kettle Repair](/img/tr.png)
I fixed my leaky kettle following your tutorial! It’s been working great for about a month now. Thanks so much!
Great to hear!
YOU are brilliant! I was able to piece things back together (broken lid) with your detailed video! Thank you so much! You are better than the actual support line for Cuisinart!
Fantastic! It would have been much easier if only we only could buy actual spare parts, but alas...
ظظظدد
Thank you so much for this! I was able to fix my broken lid all due to this video.
Fantastic!
Thank you for sharing this! Silicon tape and steel mesh are awesome tools I didn’t know about. Inspired me to replace the leaky water level indicator with a silicon straw lol. I think the material they use for the indicator isn’t good enough for this purpose. It eventually cracks and leaks (if I’m not mistaken yours is also showing signs of cracking on the inside).
Yep, you're correct, clear plastic used in the level indicator deteriorates over time (I am sure contact with boiling doesn't help). It starts to develop microfractures which eventually leak :(
Very thorough instructions. Excellent! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you!!! I already repaired the leaking part!!!
This is great! Just keep an eye for slow seepage in case your repair is not completely watertight.
Wonderful instructions. Thank you very much!❤
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video, my CPK-17 ended up just too broken to repair and no parts available. Super helpful video on disassembly though. 😊
Glad it helped!
Wow that lid has such poorly-chosen materials for the latch-spring mechanism. A heroic effort to repair on your part! Perhaps a sheet of thin stainles or copper going around the back to both pivots would work. Pity the company doesn't offer an updated part under warranty. Imagine tens of thousands (millions??) of these going into landfill💀
I agree, with a few spare parts (not to mention slightly better design) a lot of appliances could lead a much longer life. Lid problems are not even the worst ones here, at least these can be reasonably worked around if you're handy. But the parts that are in contact with actual food (well, water here), e.g., level indicator, are almost impossible to repair properly, but could be trivially replaced if parts were available... :(
Thanks for this. My kettle is leaking at the window. I’ve had it for about 5 years and the windows has become yellow and brittle. I was able to super glue along all the cracks, cover the bottom port and put the top in my mouth like a kazoo. I sucked in to create a vacuum and suck pull the super glue into the cracks. I hope it holds up.
This will _probably_ work fine. However, I'd still recommend using silicone tape as I did in the video. My two concerns with using superglue in this application would be toxicity and temperature resistance. Cyanoacrylates (primary superglue component) are generally considered non-toxic when set, but would decompose into highly toxic hydrogen cyanide gas when exposed to high heat (about 200C/400F). In this case glue shouldn't see that kind of temperature (generally should not be above boiling water temp), but I thought I'd mention it just in case. But at just below boiling water temperatures (~90C/195F or even lower) most regular superglues would soften quite a bit, these are not great for high-temperature applications. So there is a chance your fix will fail after a while due to high temperature exposure. If you still wanted to go this route (probably too late for recommendations now ;) ), I'd suggest to look for high-temperature resistant superglues, there are some out there that are rated to 200C/400F or even higher, but these are not very common.
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Loved this tutorial. My problem is that I can’t get my lid to shut. Any help you can provide on figuring out why it won’t stay shut would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
When you say it doesn't shut, do you mean the lid doesn't close all the way, or it doesn't lock in the bottom position? If the former, then it is likely lid hinge (outside the lid) is broken (plastic parts). If the latter, it is likely latch mechanism inside the lid, and there is a good chance that it is not completely broken, but parts are misaligned. If you disassemble it and reassemble it, it might work again without re-fabricating any of the parts.
My CPK-17 had been working fine for a year. No leaks. Occasionally a confused processor, where it thinks there's no water (flashes and beeps when trying to start), but unplugging fixes that. Only now, my lid got stuck! I followed your advice and was able to pry the brushed metal disc part off, exposing the mechanism. Just a slight touch with my finger seems to have "freed" the mechanism. Now it works! My only problem is that in the probing to figure out what was wrong, I popped the filter bracket off... can't figure out how to get it back on.
Glad that I could help!
@@JustMakeItNow Thanks. The lid has been working perfectly fine since I freed it. I opened and closed the lid about a dozen times, flawless operation. Ran the kettle about half a dozen times for hot water requirements and nothing changed. It'll be interesting to see if this issue returns once more. At least I know how to remedy it!
It's possible it was a one-off situation, but usually there is a reason why things stop working, and unless you fixed the root cause it is likely to reoccur some time later. Well, the good news is that now you're much better prepared for that ;)
@@JustMakeItNow Yes, my hope is that it was a one-off situation by a random chance of misuse. Someone else had used the kettle first that day. When I went to use it, the lid wouldn't release and rise up. They're aware of what happened. A more gentle hand is being offered... so hopefully that's it. ☺
Please show us how to reassemble the lid if it’s fallen apart. Thank you.
Not sure which part you're talking about, but you can see disassembly in more detail at JMI Works:
th-cam.com/video/E1RCR4P6S_o/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/E1RCR4P6S_o/w-d-xo.html
Reassembly is just doing the same in reverse, the lid is fairly straightforward.
Good skills, Will try to fix mine. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you it helps 🎉
You're welcome!
I was able to reattach the filter bracket. It is friction fit. You need to align the piece into the curved groove at the top, then pull up on the plastic below enough to get the slot to fit over that "L" metal hook in the metal wall of the kettle.
Just wanted to reply reading your previous comment, but you already figured it out! ;)
@@JustMakeItNow Yep. It's hard to explain without a visual demonstration, but with a little finagling I'm sure most people will figure it out, if they ever run into that problem. Cuisinart did some things right and some things... well, not so good!
Thank you, I searched for leaking issues on this kettle as it started to leak I noticed today, just went and picked up silicone tape, and hopefully that's indeed where the leak is! Do you have suggestions if it leaking where the seal goes into the kettle and not the indicator? Fingers crossed going to go try this tonight!
That's hard to tell. The seal is soft silicone and is unlikely to leak itself. But indicator assembly is a single piece with a nipple that goes into a kettle (via silicone seal), and it is made out of hard transparent plastic. And I believe this plastic over few years deteriorates into brittle, cracking state, probably assisted with being in contact with boiling water. So these microcracks can develop pretty much anywhere at the bottom of the assembly. And that's another reason why you may want to cover as much as you can there with tape, because even if you seal a place that is leaking today, it is likely to leak from somewhere nearby is a short while.
I really would prefer if we could just buy the indicator assembly as a replacement part, this would make this fix rather trivial. But alas :(
Great instructions! The lid on my kettle isn't opening, but it's not wobbly.
Any suggestions?
Thank You!
Sure, lock is not really related to wobble, wobble is due to a broken hinge. In your case, there is a good chance that something is either broken or just misaligned in the lid mechanism. Just pop up the top metal cover (it is just pressed in with tabs), then you'll see the lock mechanism and will be able to at least open the lid, and probably fix it. Cheers!
What is size and where did you get ss mesh
Thank you
I had a random piece lying around, so can't say exact mesh size. But sizing is not critical. It needs to be stainless, that's the important part. Apart from that, the opening needs to be large enough for softened plastic to squeeze through, so don't go too small. I'd say something between 16x16 and 40x40 if I have to guess.
My kettle is 5 years old. Worked yesterday but now it won't heat my water. All the kettle lights come on. I pick a temp and it blinks like before. Hit start button and it lights up white. After a long while of temp light blinking all the buttons go to a neutral blue light. Again after a long while the kettle shuts off. I'm thinking bad heating element or whatever controls it to heat up.
This is a bit weird, sounds like a proper heating cycle according to LEDs. However, if it is a heating element it shouldn't stop attempted heating as it would never reach temperature. If the temp sensor is bad it wouldn't shutoff at all or would shutoff immediately. The only explanation that I can think of is that it is the heating element problem, everything else works fine and kettle thinks it actually is heating up the water. But then there might be a safety timer that shuts off heating after some period of time even if it doesn't reach temperature.
.
You can follow the video and open up the bottom of the kettle and do a visual inspection, maybe run some continuity tests and see if you can find anything. Though it's unlikely to be something obvious as it seems that most of the kettle works.
@@JustMakeItNow Correct, lights up and begins the process of heating the water and nothing after that. Thanks for you help I'll open bottom of kettle and run a few continuity test.
Did you fix it? I have the same issue.
@@Camifran No not yet. Need a Volt-Ohm-Milliammeter tool before I can trouble shoot. If I fix it or not I'll let you know either way.
Yo tengo una y no calienta enciende y la luz parpadea y nada que calienta gracias y me podría ayudar
That would be an entirely different issue. Take a look at other TH-cam videos, some of them deal with issue of kettle not heating up. Good luck!
Thank you for your tutorial. Very helpful
Glad it was helpful!