I would love to see a rear hub overhaul video. I am about to do my own and to have you to rewind when I miss something would be priceless! Then again Jon, most of your videos are!
Jon, my old sausage, yes more on bleeding and as I have new Campy H11 brakes, are there any brand specific tricks to their pad install, and bleeding? Any tips on common mistakes?
Good tip on the tire levers for moving the calipers back in place. It never occurred to me. Last time out I had fits getting the wheel back in with the thicker new pads. This tip will help next time. Thanks!
how to do it the simple way that still works well and is professional 1. remove the wheel 2. press the old pads (brakepistons) out with a screwdriver or whatever you want 3. exchange old pads with new ones 4. put the weel back in that's all... you'r welcome!
Depending on how much grime is on the disc brake calipers, sometimes it makes sense to spray down the caliper pistons with brake clean before you retract them. Saves on seals. Then put the pads back in to retract them. One advantage of doing that is that it can help the pistons move evenly.
I see there are several comments against using disc brakes. It’s true the maintenance isn’t as simple and they cost more. I live on a small mountain range, nothing like the Alps or Rockies, but I easily hit speeds of 60-70 kph on my descents. I’ve recently purchased a new bike with disc brakes and will never buy another rim brake bike again. 1. They do stop better in the rain. 2. The brakes have significantly more stopping power. 3. To stop from speed requires significantly less effort squeezing the brake lever, good for us older riders and anyone with hand issues. 4. It allows me to use a wider tire (32) for a more comfortable ride on my crappy roads and I went tubeless also. 🚴😃
Thanks for an interesting video. A couple of things I do with the after market pads when I replace. The ones with no cooling fins, I file a small nick on one of the locating eyelets as a witness mark, for when I remove the pads for cleaning, I can then place on the inboard or outboard side, so that there are no alignment problems, which can cause rubbing. The second thing, because the pads and spring can be fiddly to replace, I use a 3mm drill bit shaft to align the pads and spring, while I am dropping the pads into the caliper, finally remove the drill bit, then insert partially into the locating hole of the caliper, gently push the components and drill bit so that all locate perfectly.
Use the retaining screw itself. After undoing the retaining screw, I pull the pads out, so that the screw holes are just proud of the caliper, then I re-insert the retaining screw through the pads and the spring and pull them clear of the unit. Because of the head of the screw, the pads will not fall out, if tilted to that side. Also the head is always on the left, and so it is easy to know which is the left pad and which is the right. If the pads look OK, I re-insert them with the retaining screw still in them (and the spring) until the screw hits the caliper, I then pull the screw out, push the pads in fully and then screw the retaining screw in. It's quick and easy.
The most difficult thing is to choose the right replacement set (shape and material). I would add a warning: keep in mind that bicycle pads may still contain asbestos, even in 2019. Indeed, and although asbestos is banned in Europe, it is still widely used in China, Malaysia, Taiwan and India. Which are, and this is not by chance, the countries where the pads are produced. Even if they are stamped with the logo of an American or Japanese manufacturer. Do not create dust in the air, therefore do not use compressed air or brushes. Clean, as mentioned in the video, with a wet brake cleaner. Just precautionary principle.
That looks easy. Although I did it myself on my E-bike, I wasn't able to replace them. The head was stripped. My colleagues and me did replace the entire caliper for a new one that had fresh pads installed. We didn't replace the hose and we didn't need to add mineral oil to the system. This replacing was NOT done at the front brake. The rear brake was the faulty one. After replacing, I noticed that I was just in time. Th old pads were worn so far that it was almost metal on metal. If I waited any longer I would also have to replace the rotor itself.
thank you! recently bit the bullet and switched to road disc (funnily still running good ol' cantis on the cx bike) and this helped a lot. how about a deep dive on adjusting di2 derailleurs?
I usually give the pistons a clean with some hydraulic fluid before pushing them back in to prevent getting break dust and road dirt on the seals. Didn’t used to but find the pistons work much better if u do.
Great video and advice Jon. +Like. In 99% of braking instances, these disk brakes are over-kill on a road bike. Comparing r8010 Ultegra direct mount rim brakes & braking on an alloy rim surface (even in the slippery cold rain) is honesty all I'll ever need. For me, an alloy braking surface and r8010 direct mount rim brakes are more than suffice to stop anyone, in any situation.
Completely agree. Been racing, touring and wrenching bikes for 40 years, and just recently picked up a Domane+ ebike that came with hydraulic disks. What a waste of technology, but I'm sure a money-maker for the manufacturers.
@@ichglaubesgehtlos My car has a weight of 2 ton & is able to travel at 100 + mph It's physics & crazy to compare the braking system of a car with a 7kg cycle
I started using a hemostat (haemostat if you live across the pond) to remove the clip when I change brake pads. Since the ratchet mechanism on the hemostat keeps the jaws closed, I don’t have to worry about dropping/losing the clips any more.
I must admit to a personal problem I have with getting wrapped up in Jon’s habit of over-using the word “actual(ly)” way too much (actually 30 times in this video). What is the difference between “retaining pin” and “actual retaining pin”, and should I consider virtually putting on gloves as opposed to “actually put on gloves”? Nevertheless, it was another detailed and, as usual, informative video. Thanks, Jon.
Excellent tutorial. Generally the pad retaining pins come new with new brake pads so it doesn't matter if you drop the old ones, in fact I'd recommend dropping them. 😁
@Jan Willem Kuilenburg - I had to do that recently. Tried freeze spray but that didn’t work, then just sprayed wd40 all round the top of the seat tube. Didn’t move at all. When I stripped the bike down weeks later I took the clamp off the top of the seat post, turned the frame upside down and clamped the seat post in a vice. I could then twist the frame to get it moving. My LBS said if that doesn’t work you can run penetrating oil down from the BB.
My front brake bad failed last year, even though, there was still over 1.2mm compound left, but spring got caught by rotor and got bent. I believe, the reason why it happened, was because sand and dirt falling down from mudguard directly on to brake caliper. And then probably some tiny rock or sand from gravel, that had fallen from above, worked itself under that leaf spring.. to between brake bad and spring. Rising the spring up.. I fixed the problem by making guards. Like mudguards from empty plastic bottles to above brakes. So that anything falling/pouncing down, from mudguard won't reach to brake calipers.
Just did my first pad change with this as a guide. Long/thorough was just what I needed so thanks! When pushing back the pistons (both front and back) one side was much more stubborn to push and wouldn't quite go as far in as the other, why could that be? There was enough room for the new pads to fit but the brake levers are starting to feel a bit loose so suspect they need bleeding (a job for the bike shop) so I'm curious if they're connected. Anyone?
I brought a new bike a thew days ago I just adjusted my brake cables and noticed my disc brakes doesn’t have no pin or pins what’s so ever 😢. Do I pinch them from the top or do I open the calliper after removing the wheel. It has three Allen key bolts and no pins. ???
Does this work with both hydraulic and mechanical disk brakes? Pushing them back in when the pads are out etc? As long as you don’t touch the brake lever they won’t creep in and close up, correct?
Q: on cars they always use copper grease on the back of the pads to stop squealing, is it worth doing on bikes? Just thinking of all the squealing brakes at cx races. Also, are different pad types better in the wet muddy conditions of cx races?
Although I clean the pistons with a bit of mineral brake fluid they don't seem to retract enough to prevent a light rubbing sound. What to do? I always clean de discs with DB cleaner when replacing the brake pads to bed them in more easily.
Jon: explains a 2-5 minute job in great detail, giving insights and explaining different systems Diehard reactionaries: wahhhh 14 minute video, this stuff is way too labourious
This is literally the easiest maintenance job possible. Infinitely easier than replacing rim brake blocks. 5 mins max for both ends of a bike, including taking the wheels out and opening the packaging for the replacement parts.
Jon, Unrelated to the subject matter of the video, but what is that tool that was over your right shoulder in this video?n The large silver cylinder that looks like a floor pump.
I would have preferred more close ups. There was a lot of camera time watching him from afar but the action is up close as the main characters are small
Thinner tyres are faster in certain circumstances. The track is buttery smooth so thin, aero tyres will be the quickest of course. As roads get rougher the optimum tyre width question becomes more complex
Ive bought myself 2 pairs of Clarkes round disc pads I just had to break the tab off them to make them fit on the non piston side I couldn't get the piston side ones to stay so I'm making do with one side BODGE JOB but it works "a bit" . I found Halfords and a local bike shop to be most unhelpful tbh but I suppose i have half a clue .. I prefer V brakes as they are just plainly simple tbh but I do want to do this properly
I have ultegra brakes and have replaced the pads a couple of times already. The new pads never came with the screw and mine are wearing out. Where do I get a replacement? Can't find it anywhere.
Yes, you CAN replace the pads without removing the wheel, which is a whole lot of good news if your bike is a bit complicated at the back end. Mine has a Gates Belt Drive and hub gears. Instead you simply unbolt the hex-heads holding the caliper onto its carrier, and lift it off the rotor. Be careful not to kink the hydraulic hose. Fuller details are here... th-cam.com/video/HF2-eHgdngU/w-d-xo.html And there are a couple of others, too.
I've heard on your previous videos that "disc brakes is the future", but as far as I know they're still heavier than rim brakes right? So what do you mean by that statement? They're the future because stopping power is better, or because they're getting lighter to the point where they're the same to rim brakes? I'd like some videos on vintage bike maintenance. Stuff like upgrading from a one-piece crank to a modern one, and how to remove really tough rust and rustproof old parts would be interesting. I'm still struggling with my 80s fauber crankset. It's been sitting in penetrating fluid for 2 weeks.
Jon pls help, I fixed/tuned my front mech but after that every time I let my rear wheel spin (without pedaling) I don't know if it's the hub but there's a weird sound coming from there, what do I do?
@@ricardiomilos7204 couldn't tell you without seeing it in person, but I'd advise using a chain checker to ensure it's not caused by the chain. Also check your limit screws on front and rear derailleurs and gear indexing. It's also possible that it's coming from the wheel bearings or freehub body but much less likely. A real rare rub can happen between the tyre and the inside of the brake caliper itself with larger tyres when inflated past a certain psi, but it only really applies to brakes from older groupsets that weren't designed for tyres larger than ~28c. If you're unsure on how to do the trim and adjustment, check out the manuals on the shimano tech docs website. If you're still unsure then you should hand your bike to a competent mechanic.
Think I'll stick with rim brakes, that's way too tedious. In a car it's easier to push the calipers back out if you loosen the reservoir cap. That also helps release any air that may have gotten into the system by allowing the air bubbles to flow up and out. IMO on bikes.
I prefer mechanical disks because you get better braking performance than rim brakes (on road bikes) without the hassle of having to bleed the breaks every month
@@benjamindavies1188 I haven't seen the need to change to disc. My carbon wheel rim brakes will dang near flip me over the bars. On alloy wheels they will flip ya. Im sure I'll transition to disc eventually.
@@thenotoriousrvh6091 Much easier than changing brake pads to v-brake or simialr rim brake. You have to calibrate those brakes everytime. Disc brakes are done just by throwing new pads in.
@askgcntech #askgcntech Hi Jon! A question can you have a disc brake front and a rear rim brake one or vice versa if so what do i need to take note of?
I thought it was generally a good idea to clean the sides of the pistons before pushing them back in to avoid scoring the sides of the pistons or dragging grit passed the piston seals.??
I don't know about you, but disco brakes sound pretty rad. Storming down a steep descent into a hairpin, leaning on the brakes and hearing: "bah de ah, say do you remember?" Would make my ride.
I feel there should be an alternate ending for this vid that shows how you can balls up an ultegra caliper by shearing the pin because shimano use pins made of cheese which seize inside the caliper. I've defo never seen that happen... 😫🙈😳
Nice video but it's a shame bikes have become so complicated and technical. No doubt all these specific parts make a lot of money for manufacturers but, overall, this is not good for cycling. It cannot be good for small bike shops, either.
Great presentation style but needs to be re-recorded: to avoid pistons popping out squeeze a soft rubber ball between the brake lever and handle bar, put a twist tie through retaining clip so you can find it, check retaining pin is not damaged (corroded/notched/bent), most credit/ID cards are 0.76mm don’t let the pads wear past this, clean pistons then to avoid damaging brakes reinstall old pads before pushing pistons back-in, to avoid corrosion use red rubber grease on threads of lock pin, check calliper bolts are still tight, heat shrink is not heat sink and don’t forget the edges of the disc can be razor sharp!
New rotor and new disc brake pads just because they start squeaking once? 🤣 No for me I'll try to clean it and sand the pads.. though i guess if it can't be fixed that way, the Pistons or piston seals might be leaking the hydraulic fluid.. and that isn't going to be fixed by replacing the disc rotors or pads..
Well, that looks simple compared to a rim brake. Not! Tell me again why we are forced to buy bikes with disc brakes when they could wear out in one wet ride? When you can’t even easily see how worn they are. And no mention of the hydraulic issue.
What other maintenance explainers would you like us to make? Let us know in the comments below 🔧
Thanks JC. How about bleeding the brakes?
I would love to see a rear hub overhaul video. I am about to do my own and to have you to rewind when I miss something would be priceless! Then again Jon, most of your videos are!
Replacing a in frame cable
Jon, my old sausage, yes more on bleeding and as I have new Campy H11 brakes, are there any brand specific tricks to their pad install, and bleeding? Any tips on common mistakes?
How to install hydraulic brakes link inside the new carbon handlebar on the road bike.
This video actually is perfect and very clear,I have looked at several other videos which are crap and very misleading so well done GCN and thank you.
Jon: master mechanic, the man, the myth, the legend!!!
Good tip on the tire levers for moving the calipers back in place. It never occurred to me. Last time out I had fits getting the wheel back in with the thicker new pads. This tip will help next time. Thanks!
how to do it the simple way that still works well and is professional
1. remove the wheel
2. press the old pads (brakepistons) out with a screwdriver or whatever you want
3. exchange old pads with new ones
4. put the weel back in
that's all... you'r welcome!
I couldn't understand why he didn't do it that way either, especially given the fact the old pads won't be used again.
Depending on how much grime is on the disc brake calipers, sometimes it makes sense to spray down the caliper pistons with brake clean before you retract them. Saves on seals. Then put the pads back in to retract them. One advantage of doing that is that it can help the pistons move evenly.
I see there are several comments against using disc brakes. It’s true the maintenance isn’t as simple and they cost more. I live on a small mountain range, nothing like the Alps or Rockies, but I easily hit speeds of 60-70 kph on my descents. I’ve recently purchased a new bike with disc brakes and will never buy another rim brake bike again. 1. They do stop better in the rain. 2. The brakes have significantly more stopping power. 3. To stop from speed requires significantly less effort squeezing the brake lever, good for us older riders and anyone with hand issues. 4. It allows me to use a wider tire (32) for a more comfortable ride on my crappy roads and I went tubeless also. 🚴😃
Thanks for an interesting video. A couple of things I do with the after market pads when I replace. The ones with no cooling fins, I file a small nick on one of the locating eyelets as a witness mark, for when I remove the pads for cleaning, I can then place on the inboard or outboard side, so that there are no alignment problems, which can cause rubbing. The second thing, because the pads and spring can be fiddly to replace, I use a 3mm drill bit shaft to align the pads and spring, while I am dropping the pads into the caliper, finally remove the drill bit, then insert partially into the locating hole of the caliper, gently push the components and drill bit so that all locate perfectly.
Use the retaining screw itself. After undoing the retaining screw, I pull the pads out, so that the screw holes are just proud of the caliper, then I re-insert the retaining screw through the pads and the spring and pull them clear of the unit. Because of the head of the screw, the pads will not fall out, if tilted to that side. Also the head is always on the left, and so it is easy to know which is the left pad and which is the right.
If the pads look OK, I re-insert them with the retaining screw still in them (and the spring) until the screw hits the caliper, I then pull the screw out, push the pads in fully and then screw the retaining screw in. It's quick and easy.
Really informative video, maybe could have had a few more close-ups when attaching the springs.
Thank you for the great video. I was able to change the pads on my road bike with minimal fuss.
The most difficult thing is to choose the right replacement set (shape and material).
I would add a warning: keep in mind that bicycle pads may still contain asbestos, even in 2019. Indeed, and although asbestos is banned in Europe, it is still widely used in China, Malaysia, Taiwan and India. Which are, and this is not by chance, the countries where the pads are produced. Even if they are stamped with the logo of an American or Japanese manufacturer.
Do not create dust in the air, therefore do not use compressed air or brushes. Clean, as mentioned in the video, with a wet brake cleaner.
Just precautionary principle.
Heat sink fins.
That looks easy.
Although I did it myself on my E-bike, I wasn't able to replace them.
The head was stripped. My colleagues and me did replace the entire caliper for a new one that had fresh pads installed. We didn't replace the hose and we didn't need to add mineral oil to the system. This replacing was NOT done at the front brake. The rear brake was the faulty one. After replacing, I noticed that I was just in time.
Th old pads were worn so far that it was almost metal on metal. If I waited any longer I would also have to replace the rotor itself.
This is the video I was waiting for but didn't know I need it. 👏👏
I think the word you were looking for was cooling fins. Alternatively, heat sink, but not heat shrink.
Nevertheless, always great info! thank you!
Very good. Clear and simple.
Been a while since I've watched GCN, great to see JC again. Still yet to see him on a bike though.
thank you! recently bit the bullet and switched to road disc (funnily still running good ol' cantis on the cx bike) and this helped a lot. how about a deep dive on adjusting di2 derailleurs?
I usually give the pistons a clean with some hydraulic fluid before pushing them back in to prevent getting break dust and road dirt on the seals. Didn’t used to but find the pistons work much better if u do.
Great video and advice Jon. +Like. In 99% of braking instances, these disk brakes are over-kill on a road bike. Comparing r8010 Ultegra direct mount rim brakes & braking on an alloy rim surface (even in the slippery cold rain) is honesty all I'll ever need. For me, an alloy braking surface and r8010 direct mount rim brakes are more than suffice to stop anyone, in any situation.
Completely agree. Been racing, touring and wrenching bikes for 40 years, and just recently picked up a Domane+ ebike that came with hydraulic disks.
What a waste of technology, but I'm sure a money-maker for the manufacturers.
Watching this just makes me want to keep my rim brakes even more
Far easier to maintain & plenty powerful enough for me with good pads (ie Swisstop)
So your car has rim brakes as well.
@@ichglaubesgehtlos My car has a weight of 2 ton & is able to travel at 100 + mph
It's physics & crazy to compare the braking system of a car with a 7kg cycle
So a couple of razor gums will do the job just fine 😂👍🏼
@@ichglaubesgehtlos No as I stated I have Swisstop pads fitted & they work great
Read my post
I started using a hemostat (haemostat if you live across the pond) to remove the clip when I change brake pads. Since the ratchet mechanism on the hemostat keeps the jaws closed, I don’t have to worry about dropping/losing the clips any more.
You should have mentioned the "Golden Rule" John, NEVER pull the brake lever while the wheel is out!
I bet someone does it..... ;-)
Laughs in mechanical brakes
@@brauljo *laughs in intact rim walls*
Paddy Champ Laughs in mechanical disc brakes
@@brauljo Laughs in BMX
@@fallbrightt9223 Laughs at BMX
Obviously we have subscribed...who are we to disagree😀 great content need more maintenance video..I love them
Got an old tan rug I place underneath my work area, catches all manner of fluids and parts dropped.
Great vid Jon!
I must admit to a personal problem I have with getting wrapped up in Jon’s habit of over-using the word “actual(ly)” way too much (actually 30 times in this video). What is the difference between “retaining pin” and “actual retaining pin”, and should I consider virtually putting on gloves as opposed to “actually put on gloves”? Nevertheless, it was another detailed and, as usual, informative video. Thanks, Jon.
Excellent tutorial. Generally the pad retaining pins come new with new brake pads so it doesn't matter if you drop the old ones, in fact I'd recommend dropping them. 😁
Could you make a video how to remove seized aluminum seatposts from steel frames? For example with Natriumhydroxide?
@Jan Willem Kuilenburg - I had to do that recently. Tried freeze spray but that didn’t work, then just sprayed wd40 all round the top of the seat tube. Didn’t move at all. When I stripped the bike down weeks later I took the clamp off the top of the seat post, turned the frame upside down and clamped the seat post in a vice. I could then twist the frame to get it moving. My LBS said if that doesn’t work you can run penetrating oil down from the BB.
My front brake bad failed last year, even though, there was still over 1.2mm compound left, but spring got caught by rotor and got bent. I believe, the reason why it happened, was because sand and dirt falling down from mudguard directly on to brake caliper. And then probably some tiny rock or sand from gravel, that had fallen from above, worked itself under that leaf spring.. to between brake bad and spring. Rising the spring up.. I fixed the problem by making guards. Like mudguards from empty plastic bottles to above brakes. So that anything falling/pouncing down, from mudguard won't reach to brake calipers.
Happened to me, too.
I was thinking about this last night whilst lying awake in bed
Thanks for this
you're welcome Brian
try doing it with budget cable disc brakes
I always use the bleeding plastic thingamajig to push back the pistons.
To follow this video, how about aligning a rotor, and/or replacing them?
Just did my first pad change with this as a guide. Long/thorough was just what I needed so thanks!
When pushing back the pistons (both front and back) one side was much more stubborn to push and wouldn't quite go as far in as the other, why could that be? There was enough room for the new pads to fit but the brake levers are starting to feel a bit loose so suspect they need bleeding (a job for the bike shop) so I'm curious if they're connected. Anyone?
great video. I will remember to bed my pads
I brought a new bike a thew days ago I just adjusted my brake cables and noticed my disc brakes doesn’t have no pin or pins what’s so ever 😢. Do I pinch them from the top or do I open the calliper after removing the wheel. It has three Allen key bolts and no pins. ???
I love it: "Ollie can clean his own bike"... Thanks Jon, it's time to change my pads...
Does this work with both hydraulic and mechanical disk brakes? Pushing them back in when the pads are out etc? As long as you don’t touch the brake lever they won’t creep in and close up, correct?
Where were the fins on the replacement set.
I watched that part 3 times. There were no fins going back in.
When the pads are left/right specific, what side of the bike is left and what side is right, both on the front and back brake calipers? Thanks! - Phil
sit on your bike - the left is the left side, and the right is the right side.
@@aquicktake😩😁🤦🏼♂️👍
Bless you Mr Cannings! Someone should give him a pay rise for ridding me of the noise of brake rub
Q: on cars they always use copper grease on the back of the pads to stop squealing, is it worth doing on bikes? Just thinking of all the squealing brakes at cx races.
Also, are different pad types better in the wet muddy conditions of cx races?
Although I clean the pistons with a bit of mineral brake fluid they don't seem to retract enough to prevent a light rubbing sound. What to do?
I always clean de discs with DB cleaner when replacing the brake pads to bed them in more easily.
excellent, helped me do same.
Jon: explains a 2-5 minute job in great detail, giving insights and explaining different systems
Diehard reactionaries: wahhhh 14 minute video, this stuff is way too labourious
Went on and on, abbreviate can be good!
Still not persuaded to swap from rim...easier maintenance 😎
This is literally the easiest maintenance job possible. Infinitely easier than replacing rim brake blocks. 5 mins max for both ends of a bike, including taking the wheels out and opening the packaging for the replacement parts.
Jon, Unrelated to the subject matter of the video, but what is that tool that was over your right shoulder in this video?n The large silver cylinder that looks like a floor pump.
It's an adjustable crown race puller.
@@dapster Thanks.
I would have preferred more close ups. There was a lot of camera time watching him from afar but the action is up close as the main characters are small
Thinner tyres are faster in certain circumstances. The track is buttery smooth so thin, aero tyres will be the quickest of course. As roads get rougher the optimum tyre width question becomes more complex
#askgcntech...what is more economical ( wears down brake pads slowly).. braking gently or braking once hardly to slow down
Ive bought myself 2 pairs of Clarkes round disc pads I just had to break the tab off them to make them fit on the non piston side I couldn't get the piston side ones to stay so I'm making do with one side BODGE JOB but it works "a bit" . I found Halfords and a local bike shop to be most unhelpful tbh but I suppose i have half a clue .. I prefer V brakes as they are just plainly simple tbh but I do want to do this properly
Ollie: "I swear to you my pads last for years, i just dont know how they do it!"
The trick is to never brake!
Brilliant thank you
Park Tools make a tool specifically for pushing the pistons back in. I notice that it is hanging on Jon's shadow board.
Maybe Jon will use it next ;)
Shimano says to use the finned pads with those rotors only for better heat dissipation so the rotors don't warp from hard braking on a descent.
Funny how these kind of content/topic was discussed at MTB channels like 5 years ago. Roadies should catch up
great! cheers
I have ultegra brakes and have replaced the pads a couple of times already. The new pads never came with the screw and mine are wearing out. Where do I get a replacement? Can't find it anywhere.
I bought some on fleabay
Can you replace the brake pads without removing the wheel?
Yes, you CAN replace the pads without removing the wheel, which is a whole lot of good news if your bike is a bit complicated at the back end. Mine has a Gates Belt Drive and hub gears.
Instead you simply unbolt the hex-heads holding the caliper onto its carrier, and lift it off the rotor. Be careful not to kink the hydraulic hose.
Fuller details are here... th-cam.com/video/HF2-eHgdngU/w-d-xo.html
And there are a couple of others, too.
@@effyleven Hey thanks!!! That's a good "trick"!
I've heard on your previous videos that "disc brakes is the future", but as far as I know they're still heavier than rim brakes right? So what do you mean by that statement? They're the future because stopping power is better, or because they're getting lighter to the point where they're the same to rim brakes?
I'd like some videos on vintage bike maintenance. Stuff like upgrading from a one-piece crank to a modern one, and how to remove really tough rust and rustproof old parts would be interesting.
I'm still struggling with my 80s fauber crankset. It's been sitting in penetrating fluid for 2 weeks.
On my rear brake, my right pad is much more worn than the left pad. Is this normal?
its probably an alignment problem, try to align the caliper it's not that hard, you can find lots of vids on yt
i beed the rotor with a sand paper an isopropilic alcohol before installing the brake pads
Could you tell me why that helps? Especially with a used rotor?
@@playandteach cause it reduces contamination, and also you can use alcochol to clean the brake pads
@@jesusenriqueriveratellez531 I just don't understand the sandpaper bit.
@@playandteach sorry for my english, but i use the sandpaper to get rid of rotor and brake pads imperfections
Jon pls help, I fixed/tuned my front mech but after that every time I let my rear wheel spin (without pedaling) I don't know if it's the hub but there's a weird sound coming from there, what do I do?
Is your wheel in properly and your brake pads not rubbing?
@@paddychamp6069 It's not rubbing, I'm using rim brakes btw
@@ricardiomilos7204 is the noise coming from the hub/freewheel?
@@paddychamp6069 I think so, but it sounds like the chain or something else
@@ricardiomilos7204 couldn't tell you without seeing it in person, but I'd advise using a chain checker to ensure it's not caused by the chain. Also check your limit screws on front and rear derailleurs and gear indexing. It's also possible that it's coming from the wheel bearings or freehub body but much less likely. A real rare rub can happen between the tyre and the inside of the brake caliper itself with larger tyres when inflated past a certain psi, but it only really applies to brakes from older groupsets that weren't designed for tyres larger than ~28c.
If you're unsure on how to do the trim and adjustment, check out the manuals on the shimano tech docs website. If you're still unsure then you should hand your bike to a competent mechanic.
Please Note: Don't forget to spin the circlip around so the circular end is up against the body of the caliper so it can't inadvertently pop off.
at 4:50 you take off the wheel with gloves on, then you magically remove your gloves and advice us to put gloves back on. classic GCN editing hahahah
Oh man, the shadows from the set lighting in that "shop" didn't help matters when that pin fell! But come to think of it, sure is like my garage.
Think I'll stick with rim brakes, that's way too tedious.
In a car it's easier to push the calipers back out if you loosen the reservoir cap. That also helps release any air that may have gotten into the system by allowing the air bubbles to flow up and out. IMO on bikes.
I prefer mechanical disks because you get better braking performance than rim brakes (on road bikes) without the hassle of having to bleed the breaks every month
@@benjamindavies1188 I haven't seen the need to change to disc. My carbon wheel rim brakes will dang near flip me over the bars. On alloy wheels they will flip ya. Im sure I'll transition to disc eventually.
Oh roadies, you are so silly.
@@Pienimusta lol I'm not necessarily a roadie as I am realist. 😂
@@thenotoriousrvh6091 Much easier than changing brake pads to v-brake or simialr rim brake. You have to calibrate those brakes everytime. Disc brakes are done just by throwing new pads in.
Good!
Yes, this siezing is exactly what has happened to my 105 pin. That flat slot head is made of Philadephia. Waiting for the wd40 to hopefully save me.
Just got the subscribe button damn I'll late...
@askgcntech #askgcntech Hi Jon! A question can you have a disc brake front and a rear rim brake one or vice versa if so what do i need to take note of?
Tell Ollie to clean his bike. The area around the caliper was filthy.LOL
I thought it was generally a good idea to clean the sides of the pistons before pushing them back in to avoid scoring the sides of the pistons or dragging grit passed the piston seals.??
Yes, it is recommended. If you don't do that, the brake fluid will get dirty.
@@frederikroark could that also be a cause for Shimano Rs785s calipers failing? I've had three fail with leaking piston seals, in last 2 years.
I'm sticking to rim brakes.....#rimbrake4life lolol
Uninstall disco brakes. Install rim brakes. Problem solved.
I don't know about you, but disco brakes sound pretty rad.
Storming down a steep descent into a hairpin, leaning on the brakes and hearing: "bah de ah, say do you remember?" Would make my ride.
I feel there should be an alternate ending for this vid that shows how you can balls up an ultegra caliper by shearing the pin because shimano use pins made of cheese which seize inside the caliper. I've defo never seen that happen... 😫🙈😳
Guys
.. Can't even see whats going on.
That still looks wat to specialist to me! Off to a mechanic, as usual🤫
Give it a try!
This job is one step harder than putting oil on your chain. Possibly at the same level as tyre inflation.
The wall behind this guy explains the rise of single speed steel bikes….wtf are all those tools, I only have 3 Allen keys and a shifting spanner.
Just look how simple it is 🤣
Nice video but it's a shame bikes have become so complicated and technical. No doubt all these specific parts make a lot of money for manufacturers but, overall, this is not good for cycling. It cannot be good for small bike shops, either.
Close ups needed , can't see what your doing, very annoying
... needed,* can't see what you're* doing.
Lol thomas the tank music
Is that torque driver on the wall backwards? Shame Shame.
Thanks for ending my thoughts on disc brakes. There won't be any on my bikes!
What? This is sooo easy. I don't even understand the need for a video.
@@Timonius93 Well, yes not anymore.
"picked it up"
10:23 HeatSINK, not heatSHRINK
Am I the only one who thinks the headset on this bike is way to tight? It should spin much more freely when he turns those handlebars!
It's does not move so freely because the brake and gear cables run through the headset.
Great presentation style but needs to be re-recorded: to avoid pistons popping out squeeze a soft rubber ball between the brake lever and handle bar, put a twist tie through retaining clip so you can find it, check retaining pin is not damaged (corroded/notched/bent), most credit/ID cards are 0.76mm don’t let the pads wear past this, clean pistons then to avoid damaging brakes reinstall old pads before pushing pistons back-in, to avoid corrosion use red rubber grease on threads of lock pin, check calliper bolts are still tight, heat shrink is not heat sink and don’t forget the edges of the disc can be razor sharp!
New rotor and new disc brake pads just because they start squeaking once? 🤣 No for me I'll try to clean it and sand the pads.. though i guess if it can't be fixed that way, the Pistons or piston seals might be leaking the hydraulic fluid.. and that isn't going to be fixed by replacing the disc rotors or pads..
Disc brakes so much drama we dont need
get to the point dude ..that video can be done in 5 min max..
Ollies bike is really dirty.
Compare this painful process to replacing rim brake pads. What a joke. I like doing my own maintenance and (most) repairs but this is nuts.
Well, that looks simple compared to a rim brake. Not! Tell me again why we are forced to buy bikes with disc brakes when they could wear out in one wet ride? When you can’t even easily see how worn they are. And no mention of the hydraulic issue.
Only pads i buy is pad thai
You talked too much. Get to the point and get the camera closer to the brakepads so we can see what you are doing. No one wants to see your face
Too many words for a short work.
You say "actually" way too often!
Jesus christ, get to the point, we dont want telling dumb stories
What a patronising, annoying style, with limited information and poor camera angles.