This video was made to help those getting the [2015 - 2021 Versys 650 Gen 3] "Shoodaben Engineering VERSYS 650 Mountain Runner ECU flash", though the Versys ECU removal process is generic. I got the flash and it really helps smooth out the jerky throttle and heavy engine braking as you shift down and throttle up for turns. - You can ignore the part at the end about disconnecting the O2 sensor (Clarified in Steve's later, written instructions, for those who buy the flash) - I chose not to spray my ECU with furniture polish or silicone and got it out and back in OK. - Getting the ECU out is easier than putting it back in ;-). There are two plastic tabs that stick up from the tray the ECU sits in. They slide into the bumped-out rubber slots on the front and rear of the ECU (0:59). When you reinstall the ECU, you need to get these tabs back in the rubber slots. The space is tight and it can be a bit tricky. I used a L-shaped pick and seated the rear one first. The front tab will want to fold under the ECU and you'll need to carefully pry it back out (without breaking it off) to get it to seat and for the ECU to sit properly. Take your time and make sure both tabs are properly inserted into the ECU before ratchetting and screwing everything back down. - After reinstalling the newly flashed ECU, you'll need to reset your warm idle speed to the 1,250 - 1,350 rpm recommended in the Kawasaki Owner's manual (thumb screw by your right knee while you're sitting on the bike). - It's also a good idea to make sure your throttle cable is properly adjusted. The Owner's manual instructions are pretty good. You can also search for a TH-cam video titled "How To Adjust Throttle Free Play | Kawasaki Z650 | Ninja 650" which has the same adjustment cables and process as the Versys. Make sure you check the setting with the handlebars both straight and hard over to each side, particularly the right (throttle) side. Hope this helps someone.
hey Steve, I was on COG forums for some time, but MOB was too annoying to remain, but subscribed to you for a couple years now. Question for you about my 1993 Crysis (its her name), I mean Kawasaki zg1000. At 90k miles now, good valve clearance, amazing performance, but my automatic cam chain tension-er is at or near its maximum extension and began jamming, sticking,, slipping, off and on while riding, especially decelerating. Is this common on so high mileage ? Should I replace the cam chain despite 170 to 180 psi per cylinder? Or can I get some more time out of it with a manual tension-er? It looks like I have 4 or 5 clicks remaining on the stock tension-er, and I'm guessing its the original cam chain.
PS: This was the only video I found that doesn't have comments disabled but, your videos rock. I have always done my own mechanic work, but this is my first Kawasaki , thank you for your attention to detail, its greatly appreciated.
This video was made to help those getting the [2015 - 2021 Versys 650 Gen 3] "Shoodaben Engineering VERSYS 650 Mountain Runner ECU flash", though the Versys ECU removal process is generic. I got the flash and it really helps smooth out the jerky throttle and heavy engine braking as you shift down and throttle up for turns.
- You can ignore the part at the end about disconnecting the O2 sensor (Clarified in Steve's later, written instructions, for those who buy the flash)
- I chose not to spray my ECU with furniture polish or silicone and got it out and back in OK.
- Getting the ECU out is easier than putting it back in ;-). There are two plastic tabs that stick up from the tray the ECU sits in. They slide into the bumped-out rubber slots on the front and rear of the ECU (0:59). When you reinstall the ECU, you need to get these tabs back in the rubber slots. The space is tight and it can be a bit tricky. I used a L-shaped pick and seated the rear one first. The front tab will want to fold under the ECU and you'll need to carefully pry it back out (without breaking it off) to get it to seat and for the ECU to sit properly. Take your time and make sure both tabs are properly inserted into the ECU before ratchetting and screwing everything back down.
- After reinstalling the newly flashed ECU, you'll need to reset your warm idle speed to the 1,250 - 1,350 rpm recommended in the Kawasaki Owner's manual (thumb screw by your right knee while you're sitting on the bike).
- It's also a good idea to make sure your throttle cable is properly adjusted. The Owner's manual instructions are pretty good. You can also search for a TH-cam video titled "How To Adjust Throttle Free Play | Kawasaki Z650 | Ninja 650" which has the same adjustment cables and process as the Versys. Make sure you check the setting with the handlebars both straight and hard over to each side, particularly the right (throttle) side.
Hope this helps someone.
Thanks for making sense of this video. Nice work!
thank you for taking the time to make this video. exactly what i needed!
Hey, Steve great to see you
Are you supposed to take the oxygen sensor out of the circuit with this flash? That's what I see here... No more closed loop? That's not for me!
did you remove it to reprogram it or to remove it completely?
Do you still Advise the "More Power" mod for the Concours 1000? Where you run a Ground Wire Strait to the Battery.........
Thanks dude!
It's been a while since your last video!!!
Are you doing programming on the 650 & 1000 Versys ?? Was looking at the 1000LT , but such low HP , if it had 20 more it would be perfect.
hey Steve, I was on COG forums for some time, but MOB was too annoying to remain, but subscribed to you for a couple years now. Question for you about my 1993 Crysis (its her name), I mean Kawasaki zg1000. At 90k miles now, good valve clearance, amazing performance, but my automatic cam chain tension-er is at or near its maximum extension and began jamming, sticking,, slipping, off and on while riding, especially decelerating. Is this common on so high mileage ? Should I replace the cam chain despite 170 to 180 psi per cylinder? Or can I get some more time out of it with a manual tension-er? It looks like I have 4 or 5 clicks remaining on the stock tension-er, and I'm guessing its the original cam chain.
PS: This was the only video I found that doesn't have comments disabled but, your videos rock. I have always done my own mechanic work, but this is my first Kawasaki , thank you for your attention to detail, its greatly appreciated.